Sleeping in Avignon
Avignon is particularly popular during its July festival, when you must book ahead (expect inflated prices). Hotel values are distinctly better in Arles year-round. Also note that only a few of Avignon's hotels have elevators — specifically, the first three listed near place de l'Horloge.
Near Avignon's Centre-Ville Station
The next three listings are a 10-minute walk from the main train station; turn right off cours Jean Jaurés on rue Agricol Perdiguier.
<$$> Hôtel Colbert** is a good midrange bet. Your hosts, Parisian escapees Patrice and Annie, care for this restored manor house. And it shows — from the peaceful patio to the warm room decor throughout (Sb-€45-55, Db-€49–68, Tb-€75-83, air-con, 7 rue Agricol Perdiguier, tel. 04 90 86 20 20, fax 04 90 85 97 00, www.lecolbert-hotel.com, contact@avignon-hotel-colbert.com).
<$> Hôtel du Parc* has rooms with pretty stone walls — the best overlook the park. Entertaining Avignon-native Madame Rous bakes all her own bread and pastries for breakfast (S-€26, Ss-€36, D-€39, Ds-€44, Db-€48, Tb-€65, no TVs or phones, tel. 04 90 82 71 55, fax 04 90 85 64 86, hotel.du.parc.84@wanadoo.fr). This place is cheaper and sharper than Hôtel le Splendid, located across the street.
At <$> Hôtel le Splendid*, ever-smiling Madame Prel-Lemoine rents 17 small, musty-but-cheery rooms with good beds, ceiling fans, and small bathrooms (Sb-€42-45, Db-€54-64, bigger Db with air-con-€60-70, 1 free breakfast with this book in Nov-March 2006, 17 rue Agricol Perdiguier, tel. 04 90 86 14 46, fax 04 90 85 38 55, www.avignon-splendid-hotel.com).
In the Center, near Place de l'Horloge
<$$$> Hôtel d'Europe****, with Avignon's most prestigious address, lets you be a gypsy in the palace — if you get one of the 15 surprisingly reasonable "standard rooms." Enter into a fountain-filled courtyard, linger in the lounges, and enjoy every comfort. The hotel is located on the handsome place Crillon near the river (standard Db-€140, spacious Db standard–€170, first-class Db-€238, deluxe Db-€330, superior Db-€440, breakfast-€25, elevator, Internet access in lobby, garage-€16, 12 place Crillon, near Daladier Bridge, tel. 04 90 14 76 76, fax 04 90 14 76 71, www.heurope.com, reservations@heurope.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Mercure Cité des Papes*** is a modern hotel chain within spitting distance of the Palace of the Popes. It has 73 smartly designed, smallish rooms, musty halls, air-conditioning, elevators, and all the comforts (Db-€113, up to €140 during holiday weekends and the festival, extra bed-€14, many rooms have views over place de l'Horloge, 1 rue Jean Vilar, tel. 04 90 80 93 00, fax 04 90 80 93 01, h1952@accor-hotels.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Pont d'Avignon*** is nearby, just inside the walls, near St. Bénezet Bridge (87 rooms, same chain as Hôtel Mercure Cité des Papes with same prices, rue Ferruce, tel. 04 90 80 93 93, fax 04 90 80 93 94, h0549@accor-hotels.com).
<$$> Hôtel de Blauvac** and friendly owner Veronica offer 16 mostly spacious, high-ceilinged rooms (many with an additional upstairs loft) and a sky-high atrium. It's a grand old manor home near the pedestrian zone — rooms on the front can be noisy (Sb-€62-72, Db-€67-77, Tb-€82-92, Qb-€97, €10 less off-season, 11 rue de la Bancasse, 1 block off rue de la République, tel. 04 90 86 34 11, fax 04 90 86 27 41, www.hotel-blauvac.com, blauvac@aol.com).
<$$> Hôtel Danieli** is a Hello-Dolly fluffball of a place that rents 29 colorful and simple rooms on the main drag and has lots of tour groups (Sb-€62–73, Db-€72–85, Tb-€90–100, Qb-€100–120, 17 rue de la République, tel. 04 90 86 46 82, fax 04 90 27 09 24, www.hotel-danieli-avignon.com, contact@hotel-danieli-avignon.com, kind owner Madame Shogol).
<$$> Hôtel Médiéval** is burrowed deep a few blocks from the St. Pierre church. It's in a massive stone mansion with a small flower-filled garden, friendly managers, and 35 dark-wood-paneled, unimaginative-but-adequate rooms (Sb-€45, Db-€55–70, larger Db-€78-84, Tb-€84, kitchenettes available but require 3-day minimum stay, no elevator, 15 rue Petite Saunerie, 5 blocks east of place de l'Horloge, behind Church of St. Pierre, tel. 04 90 86 11 06, fax 04 90 82 08 64, www.hotelmedieval.com, hotel.medieval@wanadoo.fr, Mike).
Chambres d'Hôte
<$$$> Villa Agapè, just off busy place de l'Horloge right in the center of town, is an oasis of calm and good taste. Run by friendly Madame de La Pommeraye, the villa has three handsomely decorated rooms, a peaceful courtyard, and a soaking pool to boot (Db-€100-140, €30-extra person, includes breakfast, 2-night minimum in high season; from place de l'Horloge one block down on left above the pharmacy, ring buzzer, 13 rue St. Agricol; tel. 04 90 85 21 22, fax 06 07 98 71 30, www.villa-agape.com, michele@villa-agape.com). For a week-long stay, ask about renting her entire house, where you get Madame's room, study, kitchen, and everything.
<$$$> Le Clos du Rempart, while less central, is still within the walls and is worth considering. Madame Assad, another Parisian refugee, rents two rooms and one apartment on a pleasant courtyard that's decorated in a Middle Eastern theme, complete with hammock (Db-€90-120 depending on season and room size, 2-bedroom apartment with kitchen that sleeps up to 4-€150-230, apartment cheaper by the week, includes breakfast, air-con, 1 parking spot in garage, call for directions, 35-37 rue Crémade, 20-min walk from the station, tel. & fax 04 90 86 39 14, www.closdurempart.com, aida@closderempart.com).
Sleeping Cheaply near Avignon
<$> Auberge Bagatelle's hostel/campground offers dirt-cheap beds, a lively atmosphere, a busy pool, a café, a grocery store, a launderette, great views of Avignon, and campers for neighbors (D-€25-30, dorm bed-€12, across Daladier Bridge on the island l'Ile de laBarthelasse, bus #10 from main post office, tel. 04 90 86 30 39, fax 04 90 27 16 23, auberge.bagatelle@wanadoo.fr).