Sleeping in Bayeux
Near the Tapestry
<$$$> Hôtel le Lion d'Or*** is Bayeux's classy Old World hotel, with a palm-tree-lined courtyard, easy parking, professional service, an outdoor terrace and an elegant restaurant (small Db-€103, bigger Db-€142, Tb-€228, includes buffet breakfast, no elevator, 71 rue St. Jean, tel. 02 31 92 06 90, fax 02 31 22 15 64, www.liondor-bayeux.fr, lion.d-or.bayeux@wanadoo.fr).
<$$$> Hôtel Churchill***, on a traffic-free street across from the TI, has 32 plush rooms, fine furnishings, and original art. The eager-to-please Herberts make perfect hosts (Db-€100-115, Tb-€125, Qb-€145, easy parking, most central of my listings at 14 rue St. Jean, tel. 02 31 21 31 80, fax 02 31 21 41 66, www.hotel-churchill.fr, info@hotelchurchill.fr).
<$> Hôtel le Bayeux**, the closest I list to the train station (600 yards) is run by amiable Monsieur and Madame Lamontagne. It has long halls, bright colors, and 29 super clean, modern rooms at good rates (Db-€49-58, Tb-€67, Qb-€80, some family rooms with bunk beds, non-smoking rooms available, easy parking, a block from cathedral's right transept at 9 rue Tardif, tel. 02 31 92 70 08, fax 02 31 21 15 74, www.lebayeux.net, lebayeux@wanadoo.fr).
Near Place St. Patrice
These two good hotels are just off the big place St. Patrice (easy parking), but a 10-minute walk up rue St. Martin from the TI (a 15-min walk to the tapestry).
<$$> Hôtel d'Argouges** (ar-goo-zhah) greets travelers with a flowery courtyard and three-star comfort at two-star prices. Its 28 rooms are warmly decorated (with simple bathrooms), and the hotel is run by friendly though formal owners, Monsieur and Madame Ropartz. Named for its builder, Lord d'Argouges, this tranquil retreat has a mini-château-like feel, with small but nice public seating, and a lovely private garden (Sb-€52, Db-€82, fine family suites-€130, deluxe mega-suite for up to 6 good for two couples-€240, extra bed-€15, pay-as-you-go breakfast, free parking, just off huge place St. Patrice at 21 rue St. Patrice, tel. 02 31 92 88 86, fax 02 31 92 69 16, dargouges@aol.com).
<$> Hôtel Mogador** is a sure two-star bet, with welcoming Monsieur Mencaroni at the helm. Choose between cozy, wood-beamed rooms on the busy square or quiet, more modern rooms off the street (Sb-€42, Db-€51, Tb-€60, Qb-€73, good breakfast-€6, 20 rue Alain Chartier at place St. Patrice, tel. 02 31 92 24 58, fax 02 31 92 24 85, hotel.mogador@wanadoo.fr).
Near Bayeux
Drivers will pass scads of good-value chambres d'hôte on the way from Bayeux to Arromanches, and on the road from Arromanches to the American Cemetery.
<$$> At Château de Lignerolles, Roel (pronounced "rule") and his charming wife, Pia, have followed their bliss and moved from Holland to Normandy. Their lovely and isolated accommodation (in tiny Planquery between Bayeux and St. Lô) has modern decor, with wonderful beds and linens, and bathrooms down the hall. Guests can use the front patio to picnic in the evening, since there are no restaurants nearby (Db-€70-80, Tb-€100, cash only, includes great breakfast complete with scrambled eggs, tel. 02 31 51 98 14, mobile 06 75 12 88 28, fax 02 31 51 07 01, www.lignerolles.homestead.com, ch.de.lingerolles@wanadoo.fr). From Bayeux, take D-572 toward St. Lô and turn left to Balleroy, and stay left on D-13. Roel's "hobby" for the last 20 years has been the history of D-Day and the Battle for Normandy. (His 8 yards of history books on the subject are proof of his dedication.)
<$> André and Madeleine Sebires run a working farmhouse, with four homey, cheap rooms and a pleasant garden. It's worth the effort to track it down in tiny Ryes (between Bayeux and Arromanches) at Ferme du Clos Neuf. While it's tough to find, try these directions from Arromanches: Take D-87, enter Ryes, and pass the church on the left; then, at the first junction, turn right onto rue de la Forge (look for the faded Chambres signs), and continue until you cross a tiny bridge. Turn right just after the bridge, onto rue de la Triangle, and follow that road until you see a small sign on right to Le Clos Neuf. Park near the tractors. If the Sebires prove too elusive, call from Ryes and they'll come get you (Sb-€28, Db-€33, Tb-€40, includes breakfast, tel. 02 31 22 32 34, emmanuelle.sebire@wanadoo.fr, no English spoken except when daughter Emmanuelle is there on the weekends).