Sleeping in Nice
Don't look for charm in Nice. Go for modern and clean, with a central location and, in summer, air-conditioning. I've divided my sleeping recommendations into three areas: between the train station and Nice Etoile shopping center, near Old Nice and the beaches, and in a more stately area between the station and promenade des Anglais (by boulevard Victor Hugo).
Reserve early for summer visits. The rates listed here are for April through October. Prices generally drop €10–20 from November through March, and go sky high during the Nice Carnival (Feb 11–28 in 2006), Monaco's Grand Prix (May 25-28 in 2006), and the Cannes film festival (May 17-28 in 2006). June is convention month, and Nice is one of Europe's top convention cities — so book ahead and be ready for higher prices at some hotels.
Near the Train Station
Most hotels near the station are overrun, overpriced, and loud. Here are the pleasant exceptions (most are between Old Nice and the train station, near avenue Jean Médecin and boulevard Victor Hugo). For parking, ask your hotelier.
<$$$> Hôtel Excelsior***, one block below the station, is a diamond in the rough station area. This elegant hotel features turn-of-the-century decor, a pleasing garden courtyard, and 40 top-notch rooms. Rooms on the garden are best in the summer; streetside rooms have balconies and get winter sun (standard Db-€90, bigger Db-€105, best Db-€120, Tb-€145, Qb with kitchenettes on the garden-€175, air-con, 19 avenue Durante, tel. 04 93 88 18 05, fax 04 93 88 38 69, www.excelsiornice.com, excelsior.hotel@wanadoo.fr, helpful and efficient Douha).
<$$> Hôtel St. Georges**, is big and bright, with a backyard garden, reasonably clean and comfortable rooms with high ceilings, orange tones, good rates and happy Jacques at the reception (Sb-€61, Db-€71, Tb with 3 separate beds-€89, extra bed-€17, air-con, Wi-Fi Internet access, 7 avenue Georges Clémenceau, tel. 04 93 88 79 21, fax 04 93 16 22 85, www.hotelsaintgeorges.fr, nicefrance.hotelstgeorges@wanadoo.fr).
<$> Hôtel Clémenceau**, run by the La Serre family, is an exceptional value with a modest, homey feel. Rooms — some with balconies, some without closets, all air-conditioned — are mostly spacious and traditional (S-€31, Sb-€43, D-€46, Db-€58, Tb-€69, Qb-€84, kitchenette-€8 extra and only for stays of at least 3 nights, no elevator, 3 avenue Georges Clémenceau, 1 block west of avenue Jean Médecin, tel. 04 93 88 61 19, fax 04 93 16 88 96, hotel-clemenceau@wanadoo.fr, Marianne and Cedric speak English, Mama and Papa no speak).
<$>Hôtel La Belle Meuniere has cheap beds and private rooms just a block below the train station. Lively and hostel-esque, this place attracts budget-minded travelers of all ages with basic-but-adequate, decent-value rooms. Front yard tables greet guests and provide opportunities to meet other travelers (bed in 4-person dorm-€15, Db-€55, includes breakfast, showers-€2, 21 avenue Durante, tel. 04 93 88 66 15, fax 04 93 82 51 76).
<$>Hôtel du Petit Louvre* should be entirely renovated by 2006, but the new owners promise not to raise their rates much (Db-€55 in 2005, 10 rue Emma Tiranty, tel. 04 93 80 15 54, fax 04 93 62 45 08, petilouvr@wanadoo.com).
Near Old Nice
<$$$> Hôtel Masséna****, in a classy building a few blocks from place Masséna, is a stylish, business hotel showcasing 100 rooms with all the comforts at reasonable rates (small Db-€120, larger Db-€150, still larger Db-€210, extra bed-€30, some non-smoking rooms, Internet access in lobby, reserve parking ahead-€18/day, 58 rue Giofreddo, tel. 04 92 47 88 88, fax 04 92 47 88 89, www.hotel-massena-nice.com, info@hotel-massena-nice.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Suisse*** has Nice's best ocean and city views for the money, and is surprisingly quiet given the busy street below. Rooms are quite comfortable, with air-conditioning and modern conveniences. There's no reason to sleep here if you don't land a view, so I've listed prices only for view rooms — many of which have balconies (Db-€139–170, extra bed-€34, breakfast-€15, 15 quai Rauba Capeu, tel. 04 92 17 39 00, fax 04 93 85 30 70, hotelsuisse@wanadoo.fr).
<$$$> Hôtel Mercure***, a chain hotel ideally situated across from the sea and behind cours Saleya, offers smallish yet tastefully designed rooms (some with beds in a loft) at fair rates for the great location (Sb-€97-121, Db-€112–125, Tb-€137-150, seaview-€30 extra, air-con, 91 quai des Etats-Unis, tel. 04 93 85 74 19, fax 04 93 13 90 94, h0962@accor-hotels.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Vendôme*** gives you a whiff of the belle époque, with pink pastels, high ceilings, and grand staircases in a mansion set off the street. It could be better kept (many tour groups stay here), but the location is good, prices are fair, and rooms are modern and come in all sizes. The best have balconies — request une chambre avec balcon (Sb-€90-100, Db-€110–130, Tb-€130–150, air-con, Internet access in lobby, parking-€10/day, 26 rue Pastorelli, tel. 04 93 62 00 77, fax 04 93 13 40 78, www.vendome-hotel-nice.com, contact@vendome-hotel-nice.com).
<$$> Hôtel Lafayette***, well-located a block behind Galleries Lafayette department store, looks average from the outside. But inside, it's a homey, good-value place with 18 comfy, mostly spacious rooms, all one floor up from the street. Sweet Sandrine and Scottish George will take good care of you (standard Db-€80-100, spacious Db-€90-110, extra bed-€18, central air-con, no elevator, 32 rue de l'Hôtel des Postes, tel. 04 93 85 17 84, fax 04 93 80 47 56, www.hotellafayettenice.com, info@hotellafayettenice.com).
<$$> Hôtel le Guitry*** is small, with 16 rooms. Half are traditional, half are just renovated and très plush, though a few have little natural light (Db-€70–90, big family room-€125, central air-con, 6 rue Sacha Guitry, tel. 04 93 80 83 83, fax 04 93 13 02 91, hotelguitry@hotmail.fr).
<$> Hôtel Lorrain** is very basic, with kitchenettes in all of its large, linoleum-floored rooms. It's a classic budget place with no frills, conveniently located one block from the bus station and Old Nice (Db-€50, Tb-€70, Qb-€92, 6 rue Gubernatis, push top buzzer to release door, tel. 04 93 85 42 90, fax 04 93 85 55 54, hotellorrain@aol.com).
Uptown, between the Station and Promenade des Anglais
<$$$> Hôtel Windsor*** is a snazzy garden retreat that feels like a mix between a modern art museum and a health spa. The contemporary rooms include some — designed by modern artists — that defy explanation (pass on the artiste rooms and ask for a traditional room). It has a full service bar, a swimming pool and gym (both free for guests), a €10 sauna, €50 massages, and light meals in the garden at fair prices (standard Db-€105, bigger Db-€155, extra bed-€20, rooms over garden worth the higher price, air-con, Internet access in lobby, 11 rue Dalpozzo, tel. 04 93 88 59 35, fax 04 93 88 94 57, www.hotelwindsornice.com, contact@hotelwindsornice.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Les Cigales*** is a smart little pastel place with tasteful decor, 19 plush rooms (most with tub-showers), air-con, and a nifty upstairs terrace, all well-managed by friendly Mr. Valentino with Veronique and Elaine. Show this book for a surprise treat (standard Db-€90-115, big Db-€110-135, extra €30 during major events, extra bed-€20, 16 rue Dalpozzo, tel. 04 97 03 10 70, fax 04 97 03 10 71, www.hotel-lescigales.com, infos@hotel-lescigales.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Splendid**** is a worthwhile splurge if you miss your Marriott. The rooftop pool, Jacuzzi, bar, and panoramic breakfast room alone almost justify the cost...but throw in good rooms (4 of 6 floors are non-smoking), a free gym, Internet access, and air-conditioning, and you're as good as home (Db-€225, deluxe Db with terrace-€250, suites-€335-360, free breakfast with minimum 3-night stay, parking-€20/day, 50 boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 16 41 00, fax 04 93 16 42 70, www.splendid-nice.com, info@splendid-nice.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Gounod*** is behind Hôtel Splendid and shares the same owners, who allow its clients free access to Hôtel Splendid's pool, Jacuzzi, and other amenities. Don't let the lackluster lobby fool you. Rooms are big, air-conditioned, and richly decorated, with high ceilings — though they can be musty (Db-€125–140, palatial 4-person suites-€225, parking-€13/day, 3 rue Gounod, tel. 04 93 16 42 00, fax 04 93 88 23 84, www.gounod-nice.com, info@gounod-nice.com).
<$$$> Hôtel Aria*** is a soft-yellow, enchanting big-city refuge with 30 comfortable rooms, half of which overlook a small park. This place is well-run and a good value (Sb-€75-85, Db-€89–119, junior suite-€135-175, €10 discount on Db with this book in 2006, extra bed-€20, good buffet breakfast-€9, air-con, handy parking garage, 15 avenue Auber, tel. 04 93 88 30 69, fax 04 93 88 11 35, www.aria-nice.com, reservation@aria-nice.com).
<$$$> Hôtel le Royal*** stands shoulder-to-shoulder on the promenade des Anglais with the big boys (hôtels Negresco, Concorde, and Westminster). With 120 rooms, big lounges, and hallways that stretch forever, it feels a bit like a retirement home-turned-hotel. But considering the solid, air-conditioned comfort and terrific location, this is a fine value. They sometimes have rooms when others don't (seaview rooms: Sb-€115, Db-€140, mini-suites-€150 and well worth the extra euros; non-seaview rooms: Sb-€65, Db-€90; 23 promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 16 43 00, fax 04 93 16 43 02, www.vacancesbleues.com, royal@vacancesbleues.com).
<$$$> Hôtel l'Oasis*** is just that. This orange-pastel hotel sits away from the street, surrounding a large, flowery courtyard. Its 40 non-smoking rooms are also calming, with air-conditioning, earth tones and reasonable rates. This hotel is often booked up by an English travel company, so vacancies are few, though it's worth trying for last-minute cancellations (Sb-€77, Db-€90–120, Tb-€120, prices include breakfast, 23 rue Gounod, tel. 04 93 88 12 29, fax 04 93 16 14 40).
<$$>Hôtel Villa Eden** is the one little belle époque time-warp place among the sprawling waterfront hotels lining the promenade des Anglais. This former mansion of a Russian aristocrat new rents 13 rooms with a faded and charming family-run ambience. It's set back enough to lose the street noise and much of the sea view, but if you want to be close to the beach and the airport (though far from Old Nice), this is a good budget option (seaside Db-€65-80, garden-side Db-€55-75, extra bed-€15, 10-min walk beyond Hôtel Negresco, bus #12 or #23 from station, 99 promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 86 53 70, fax 04 93 97 67 97, www.hotel-villaeden.com, booking@hotelvillaeden.com).