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Sleeping in Rouen

These hotels are perfectly central, within two blocks of the Notre-Dame Cathedral; directions are given from the cathedral. Because Rouen is busy with business travelers on workdays and quiet on weekends, the TI offers a "bon weekend" plan, where participating hotels offer two weekend nights (Fri, Sat, or Sun) for the price of one. While this sounds good, in practice it's hard to cash in on. Free rooms must be claimed at the time of reservation. If you walk into the TI without hotel reservations, ask for the "bon weekend" deal at that time. If you book ahead with a hotel, request the deal directly from the hotel. Again, don't get your hopes up.

<$$$> Hôtel Mercure***, ideally situated a block north of the cathedral, is a sprawling business hotel with a professional staff, a vast lobby and bar, and 125 rooms loaded with modern comforts. Suites come with views of the cathedral, but are overpriced and not much bigger than a double (Sb-€125, Db-€135, suite-€250, elevator, air-con, parking garage-€10/day, 7 rue Croix de Fer, tel. 02 35 52 69 52, fax 02 35 89 41 46, www.mercure.com, h1301@accor-hotels.com).

<$$> Hôtel de la Cathédrale** welcomes you with a flowery, umbrella-filled courtyard; a cozy, wood-beamed breakfast room; and characteristic rooms, some with hardwood floors (Sb-€55-65, Db-€65-75, Tb-€93, Qb-€109, extra bed-€10, breakfast buffet-€7.50, Internet access-€6/hr, elevator, overnight parking-€5, 24-hour parking-€10, 12 rue St. Romain, a block from St. Maclou church, tel. 02 35 71 57 95, fax 02 35 70 15 54, www.hotel-de-la-cathedrale.fr, friendly Nathalie and Alexandra).

<$$> Hôtel Cardinal**, offering the same good quality and value as Hôtel de la Cathédrale, is run by English-speaking, born-and-raised-Rouennais Monsieur Pascal and his wife. Nearly all of its 18 spotless, comfortable rooms look right onto the cathedral, and a few are ideal for families. Rooms on the fourth floor are best, with small balconies and great cathedral views (Sb-€46–60, Db-€55-70, Tb-€65-79, Qb-€90 extra bed-€11, good breakfast buffet-€7, non-smoking rooms available, elevator, 1 place de la Cathédrale, tel. 02 35 70 24 42, fax 02 35 89 75 14, www.cardinal-hotel.fr, cardinalhotel.rouen@wanadoo.fr).

<$> Hôtel des Arcades*, two short blocks north of the cathedral, is a safe, budget option with sufficiently spacious, comfortable rooms and a friendly French welcome (D-€30, D with toilet only-€36, Db-€42-50, pay when you check in, no elevator, 52 rue des Carmes, tel. 02 35 70 10 30, fax 02 35 70 08 91, www.hotel-des-arcades.fr, hotel-des-arcades@wanadoo.fr).

<$> Chambre d'Hôte: Monsieur Philippe Aunay rents two rooms in his 17th-century half-timbered home. A cross between a museum and a rummage sale, it's like sleeping at your eccentric grandma's house. One room comes with a piano, bathtub, and shower. The other is a three-room mini-apartment, complete with a small kitchen and two bathrooms (Sb-€38, Db-€55, Tb-€93, Qb-€110, apartment for 5-€148, includes breakfast, cash only, 45 rue aux Ours, no sign, push buzzer, tel. 02 35 70 99 68, speaks enough English).