Sleeping in Mont St. Michel
Sleeping on the island — i nside the walls — is without question the best way to experience Mont St. Michel. You'll need to carry your bags about 10 to 15 minutes (some of it uphill), so take only what you need for one night in a smaller bag. Leave no luggage visible in your car. Drivers can also consider the nearby and excellent-value chambres d'hôte listed below.
On the Island
There are eight small hotels on the island, two of which are family-run are more hospitable about your stay. (The other hotels feel tired, and their staff seem burned out.) While some pad their profits by requesting guests to buy dinner from their restaurant, requiring it is illegal. Several are closed from November until Easter. Because most visitors only day-trip here, finding a room is generally no problem. When you hear a price range for rooms, remember that the higher-priced rooms generally have bay views.
The following hotels are listed in order of altitude, with the first lowest on the island and closest to the parking.
<$$$> Hôtel des Terrasses Poulard***, 50 yards after the TI, rents the lowest, most polished, and priciest rooms on the island (small Db-€60, standard Db with some view-€105, better view Db-€195, most at €105, Tb suite-€290, tel. 02 33 89 02 02, fax 02 33 60 37 31, www.terrasses-poulard.com, hoteltp@wanadoo.fr).
<$$$> Hôtel St. Pierre and Hôtel Croix Blanche***, with the same owners, sit side by side. Each has comfortable rooms, some with good views. St. Pierre is sharper and pricier, with several family loft rooms; Croix Blanche has an Internet station and restaurant (Db-€85–120, most at €90-105, Tb-€120-150, Qb-€130-160, tel. 02 33 60 14 03, fax 02 33 48 59 82, www.auberge-saint-pierre.fr, aubergesaintpierre@wanadoo.fr).
<$$> Hôtel du Mouton Blanc** is a good value, with well-worn but adequate rooms, thin walls, and a young, helpful staff. Their 15 rooms are split between two buildings: the main building (batiment principal) is cozier, with wood beams in most rooms; the "annex" is brighter and more modern (Db-€66, Tb-€80, Qb-€98, tel. 02 33 60 14 08, fax 02 33 60 05 62).
<$$> Restaurant le St. Michel, across from Hôtel du Mouton Blanc, rents the island's six cheapest rooms in a nearby annex. It's run by lighthearted Patricia and Frédéric (Ds-€50, Db-€55–70 depending on view, extra person-€10, simple décor, no dinner requirements but a good restaurant, tel. & fax 02 33 60 14 37, www.lesaintmichelridel.com).
<$$> Hôtel la Vieille Auberge** is family-run by entrepreneurial Nadine (who speaks English) and her Old World mother-in-law, Madame. Their 11 traditional rooms in two buildings require the longest walk, but are among the best for the price. The four rooms with large view terraces are exceptional if the weather cooperates (and if you don't mind regular chimes from the bell tower) — but don't let Madame talk you into more room than you need. Arrive by 17:00, call if you'll be late, or lose your reservation (Db-€75-85, Db with view and terrace-€125, extra bed-€16, hotel is closed after 19:00 and on Wed except July–Aug, tel. 02 33 60 14 34, fax 02 33 70 87 04).
On the Mainland
Modern hotels gather at the mainland end of the causeway, and they have soulless but cheaper rooms with easy parking and many tour groups. Hôtel Vert (see below) rents bikes, offering easy access to the island.
<$$> Hôtel de la Digue*** is the best and most convenient place to stay on the mainland. Most rooms are spacious and well-equipped. Ask for one of the four rooms with private terrace on the riverside: une chambre avec petit balcon sur la Couesnon. (small Db-€68, spacious Db-€80, Db with terrace–€85, Tb-€88, Qb-€99, good breakfast, tel. 02 33 60 14 02, fax 02 33 60 37 59, www.ladigue.fr, hotel-de-la-digue@wanadoo.fr). From here, it's a wonderful 20-minute walk to Mont St. Michel. You can dine at their restaurant with a partial view of Mont St. Michel (menus from €19).
<$$> Hôtel Vert, which has many services, is huge, with 112 rooms. But it's clean, close, and reasonable (Db-€63, Tb-€76, Qb-€88, tel. 02 33 60 09 33, fax 02 33 60 20 02). Their musty and basic annex Motel FormuleVert is across the road (rooms €12 less).
Chambres d'Hôte
Simply great values, these converted farmhouses are near the village of Ardevon, a few minutes' drive from the island toward Avranches.
<$> La Jacotière, charming Madame Brault's stone farmhouse, is closest to Mont St. Michel — it's walkable to the causeway. She has six immaculate, modern rooms and great views of the island from her picnic-perfect garden (Db-€44, studio with view-€48, extra bed-€12, breakfast-€4, tel. 02 33 60 22 94, fax 02 33 60 20 48, la.jacotiere@wanadoo.fr, Claudine).
<$> Equally charming Madame Audienne's stone farmhouse, with two wings (each with 5 rooms) is about one mile farther away from Mont St. Michel. Like Mama, the older wing feels a wee bit tired, but has more character; and, like daughter Estelle (who speaks English), the modern wing is young and bright, with spacious, tiled rooms and modern facilities. Most rooms have good views of Mont St. Michel, but they're better from Estelle's wing. A good deck has tables to let you soak in the view (Sb-€30, Db-€40, Tb-€50, Qb-€60, includes breakfast, cash only, tel. & fax 02 33 48 28 89).
<$> Les Vieilles Digues, with delightful Danielle to pamper you, is two miles toward Pontorson on the main road (on the left if you're coming from Mont St. Michel). It's made up of a lovely garden and seven beautifully furnished, spotless, and homey rooms, all with showers and exterior entrances (but no views). Ground-floor rooms have patios on the garden (D-€50, Db-€50-60, Tb-€78, includes good breakfast, easy parking, 68 route du Mont St. Michel, tel. 02 33 58 55 30, fax 02 33 58 83 09, www.bnb-normandy.com, danielle.tchen@wanadoo.fr).
In Pontorson
Train travelers could sleep in dismal Pontorson, a 15-minute drive from Mont St. Michel.
<$$> Hôtel Vauban**, across from the train station, is quiet and comfortable (D-€44 Db-€66, 2 boulevard Clémenceau, tel. 02 33 60 03 84, fax 02 33 60 35 48, www.hotel-france-vauban.fr, hotel-france-vauban@wanadoo.fr).