[56,] Independent travelers walk right off the boat and into Tangier. The busy port seems to pump life into the city. It's an intense scene.
 Tangier had long been considered a charmless and dangerous place. But today that's changed and this city is becoming a proud showcase of the new Morocco.
 Like so many Moroccan cities, Tangier is split in two: its old tangled Arab quarter and a new French colonial quarter. While new town buildings feel distinctly European, it's immediately evident that this is North Africa.
 Tangier's new town faces its fine beach. The broad stretch of sand is treated as a park by locals — ideal for a quiet stroll or some exuberant gymnastics. And what better place for some barefoot soccer?
 A grand boulevard parrallels the beach. It's named for Morocco's popular king, Mohammad VI, the man who's policies have given Tangier its new vitality.
 Throughout the mid-20th century, Tangier was considered too strategic to be controlled by and one country and it was therefore jointly governed by the European powers. It attracted playboy millionaires, spies, romantics, and scoundrels. Because of its western outlook, Morocco's previous king essentially disowned the city, leaving it dispirited and neglected.
[62,] But when the new king was crowned, this was the first city he visited. His vision: to make Tangier a leading city once again. And it's well on its way. In the early evening, Moroccans hit the streets and stroll as people do across the Mediterranean world. Amid all the new, old ways do persist. Cafe sitting and people watching remains a mostly old boys' pastime.
 Once Tangier's main square, the Grand Socco, stands like a referee between the new and old towns. A few years ago this was a pedestrian nightmare and a perpetual traffic jam. Today this smart square is emblematic of the new Tangier.
[64,] Visiting this revitalized city lifts my spirits. I see a society that neither pro-west or anti-west. It's just people...making the best of life. It's becoming more affluent and modern on its terms.
 From the Grand Socco a medieval wall encircles the old town. Passing through the gate, you enter a laberynthine wonderland.
 The old town is delightfully disorienting. When exploring on my own, I just wander knowing that uphill will eventually get me to the castle or Kasbah and downhill will eventually lead me to the port. Expect to get a little lost...going around in circles is part of the fun.
 You can visit Tangier on your own or take a tour. Most visitors take a tour, daytripping in from Spain for a predictable series of experiences: They get their shopping opportunities and a few set up photo ops. Snake charmers turn on the charm... hustlers hustle for tips... and folkloric musicians strike up the band.
 For lunch, tour groups sit together in Ali Baba elegance to enjoy a meal with more local music.
 And then they follow their guide, single file, back down to their waiting ferry past one last gauntlet of merchants hungry for a sale.
 Once the day-trippers are back on their boats heading home to Europe, it seems there's hardly a tourist left in Tangier. That's why I like to spend the night.
 Wandering is fun. And to enjoy it with maximum understanding, you can hire a local guide. I'm joining up with my friend and fellow tour guide Aziz Begdouri.
 These guys are looking are day workers ready to work... a painter ready to paint a plummer ready plum: an electrican ready to wire
So the community works together. If you don't have a phone in the house you use the phone and we use the community baths which are called hammans and here's the community oven – it's a bakery. This is the oven for the community, so the families make bread every day and they bring the dough here to be baked. The pay a small fee, it depends on how many loaves of bread so they pay him for a day, a week or a month. So they have fresh bread every day.
Rick: and it's more than just bread?
Aziz:apart from the bread, they bring fish to be roasted. Aslo they bring tangines with a stew or lamb or chicken and bring homemade cookies and all sorts of things to roast – peanuts, almonds, flower seeds, cashews, all of that... how does that taste?
[75,] The old town is spinning with traditional artisans. And Aziz knows just which passage to duck into to witness cottage industries trapped in time.
Aziz: here are the weavers, they are still working the same way as their parents and grandparents. So this a real craft and art. These people have learned from generation to generation and are very happy to continue doing it. They have the patience, the skill and they do it from their hearts
And Mosaics are made the same way — by hand, without the precision of modern machinary.
Rick: How does he know where to chip?
Azziz: he has a design in his head and he's working on it and that way he knows what he's going to create. And all the designs are geometric designs because Muslims don't do faces and images and that's very Islamic art. For the Muslims, only Allah is perfect, for us, the fact that it's not perfect is part of the beauty.
 In the Market wander past piles of fruit, veggies, olives, and stacks of fresh bread. You'll find everything but pork. Today, the Berber women have come in from nearby mountains with wheels of fresh goat cheese wrapped in palm leaves.
 The fish market is clean, slippery, and full of life. Being a city on two seas — the Mediterranean and the Atlantic — fish is a big part of the local diet.
 And it's no suprise Aziz is taking me to a restaurant that serves only fish. There's no menu. Just sit down and let them bring on the food.
 The sink in the room is for locals who prefer to eat with their fingers. It's fish soup, tangine spinach with shrimp, baby calimari and sword fish, and the catch of today...jon dori.
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