Rick Steves' Europe: Sleeping in Arcos

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Sleeping in Arcos

(€ 1 = about $1.20, country code: 34)

Sleep Code: S = Single, D = Double/Twin, T = Triple, Q = Quad, b = bathroom, s = shower only, no CC = Credit Cards not accepted, SE = Speaks English, NSE = No English. You can assume credit cards are accepted unless otherwise noted. A price range reflects off-season to peak-season prices. Breakfast is not included, nor is the 7 percent IVA tax (unless noted below). Note that some hotels double their rates during the motorbike races in Jerez (early May) and Holy Week (March 20-27 in 2005); I have not listed these spikes in the prices below.

To help you easily sort through these listings, I've divided the rooms into three categories, based on the price for a standard double room with bath during high season.

<$$$> Higher Priced-- Most rooms €100 or more.

<$$> Moderately Priced-- Most between €50-100.

<$> Lower Priced-- Most rooms €50 or less.

In the Old Town

<$$$> Parador de Arcos de la Frontera is royally located, elegant, recently refurbished, and reasonably priced, with 24 rooms (8 with balconies). If you're going to experience a parador, this is a good one (Sb-€91, Db-€113, breakfast-€10, elevator, air-con, minibars, free parking, Plaza del Cabildo, tel. 956-700-500, fax 956-701-116, www.parador.es, arcos@parador.es, SE). Rooms with a terrace cost €20 extra.

<$$> Hotel El Convento, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family, this cozy hotel offers 13 fine rooms--all with great views, half with view balconies. In 1998 I enjoyed a big party with most of Arcos' big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to "Rick Steves Periodista Turístico"--a hint to where I sleep when in Arcos (Sb-€55, Db-€65, Db with terrace-€80, 10 percent discount with cash and this book, third person-€18 extra, includes tax, 20 percent less Nov-Feb, parking on Plaza del Cabildo-€3, Maldonado 2, tel. 956-702-333, fax 956-704-128, www.webdearcos.com/elconvento, elconvento@viautil.com, Estefania and María SE). Bird-watch with à la carte breakfast on their view terrace with all of Andalucía spreading beyond your café con leche.

<$$> La Casa Grande is a lovingly appointed Better Homes and Moroccan Tiles kind of place renting eight rooms with grand-view windows. Like in a lavish B&B, you're free to enjoy its fine view terrace, homey library, and classy courtyard, where you'll be served a traditional breakfast (Db-€77, Db suite-€88-94, Tb-€112-121, Qb suite-€131-138, Maldonado 10, tel. 956-703-930, fax 956-717-095, www.lacasagrande.net, info@lacasagrande.net, friendly owners Elena and Ferran).

<$> Hotel La Fonda is a great traditional Spanish inn with all 19 rooms off one grand hall above a tacky little lobby (Sb-€27, Db-€45, third person-€12, 10 percent discount with this 2005 book, no breakfast, air-con, request a quiet tranquilo room, Calle Corredera 83, tel. 956-700-057, fax 956-703-661, lafonda@pobladores.com, SE).

<$> Hostal San Marcos, in the heart of old town, offers four air-conditioned rooms and a great sun terrace above a neat little bar (Sb-€20, Db-€35, Tb-€45, includes tax, complimentary drink, Marqués de Torresoto 6, tel. 956-700-721, sanmarcosarcos@mixmail.com, Loli NSE).

<$> Hostal Callejón de las Monjas, with a tangled floor plan and nine simple rooms (7 with air-con), offers the best cheap beds in the old town. It's on a sometimes-noisy street behind the Church of Santa María (Sb-€18, D-€27, Db-€33, Db with terrace-€39, Tb-€44, two big Qb-€66, includes tax, Calle Dean Espinosa 4, tel. & fax 956-702-302, NSE). Friendly Sr. González Oca runs a tiny barbershop in the foyer and a restaurant in the cellar.

In the New Town

<$$> Hotel Los Olivos is a bright, cool, and airy place with a fine courtyard, roof garden, bar, view, friendly English-speaking folks, and easy parking. Unfortunately, this poor-man's parador is located on a motorbike-infested street. Since 12 of its 19 rooms are on the less-noisy back side, it's smart to request a quiet room with no view (Sb-€45, Db-€70, Tb-€82, extra bed-€18, breakfast-€6, includes tax, 10 percent discount for readers of this 2005 book, San Miguel 2, tel. 956-700-811, fax 956-702-018, losolivosdelc@terra.es, Raquel, María José or Miguel, SE).

<$> Hostal Málaga is surprisingly nice, if for some reason you want to stay on the big, noisy road at the Jerez edge of town. Nestled on a quiet lane between truck stops on A-382, it offers 18 clean, attractive rooms and a breezy two-level roof garden (Sb-€18–21, Db-€33–36, Qb apartment-€48, air-con, easy parking, Ponce de Leon 5, tel. & fax 956-702-010, hostalmalaga@teleline.es, Josefa speaks German). She also rents two apartments in the center of Arcos overlooking lively Plaza España in the new town (Db-€48).