Sleeping in Lisbon
With a few exceptions, cheaper hotels downtown feel tired and well-worn. Singles cost nearly the same as doubles. Addresses such as 26-3 stand for building #26, third floor (which is the fourth floor in American terms).
Be sure to book in advance if you'll be in Lisbon during its festival — Festas de Lisboa — the last three weeks of June, when parades, street parties, concerts, and fireworks draw crowds to the city. Conventions can clog Lisbon at any time.
In the Center
Central as can be, the Baixa district bustles with lots of shops, traffic, people, street musicians, pedestrian areas, and urban intensity.
On Praça Rossio
<$$$> The elegant, central Hotel Métropole keeps its 1920s style throughout its 36 rooms. While a bit overpriced, you're paying for its prime location. The smaller back rooms are quieter, but cost the same unless you ask for a break (Sb-€147, Db-€168, extra bed-€42, includes breakfast buffet, air-con, elevator, Rossio 30, tel. 213-219-030, fax 213-469-166, www.almeidahotels.com, metropole@almeidahotels.com). These are rack rates — prices drop by a third in slow times (ask when you reserve).
On Praça dos Restauradores
<$$$> Hotel Avenida Palace — the most characteristic five-star splurge in town — was built with the Rossio Station in 1892 to greet big-shot travelers. Back then, trains were new and this was the only station in town. The lounges are sumptuous, dripping with chandeliers, and the 82 rooms mix elegance with modern comforts (Sb-€175, Db-€200, 20 percent off July-Aug, more expensive suites available, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, laundry service, free parking, hotel's sign is on square but entrance is at Rua 1 de Dezembro 123, tel. 213-218-100, fax 213-422-884, www.hotel-avenida-palace.pt, reservas@hotel-avenida-palace.pt).
<$$> Orion Eden Apartment Hotel rents 134 slick and modern compact apartments (with small kitchens) and has a rooftop swimming pool and terrace with commanding city, castle, and river views. The building used to be a 1930s cinema, hence the Art Deco architecture and the slightly pie-shaped rooms. Perfectly located at the Rossio end of Avenida da Liberdade, this is a clean, quiet pool of modernity amid the ramshackle charm of Lisbon. It's also an intriguing option for groups or families of four (Db studio-€89, 2-bedroom apartment with bed-and–sofa bed combo that can sleep 4 people-€129, breakfast-€5, parking-€8/day, air-con, elevator, Praça dos Restauradores 24, tel. 213-216-600, fax 213-216-666, www.viphotels.com, aparthoteleden@viphotels.com).
Near Praça da Figueira
<$$$> Hotel Mundial is a massive four-star hotel overlooking park-like square Martin Moniz. It has 373 plush, business-class rooms, doormen, revolving doors, a top-floor view restaurant, and lots of tour groups (Sb-€150, Db-€160, includes breakfast, air-con, free parking, a block northeast of Praça da Figueira, Rua D. Duarte 4, tel. 218-842-000, fax 218-842-110, www.hotel-mundial.pt, reservations@hotel-mundial.pt).
<$$> Hotel Lisboa Tejo (LEEZH-boah TAY-zhoo), newly remodeled, is a modern oasis. Its 58 comfy rooms are ocean blue with hardwood floors. The staff, with Fatima and Rui at the reception, are attentive and welcoming (Sb-€100, Db-€110, 10 percent discount through 2005 with this book, includes buffet breakfast, Internet access, air-con, laundry service, elevator; from southeast corner of Praça da Figueira, walk 1 block down Rua dos Condes de Monsanto and turn left, Condes de Monsanto 2; tel. 218-866-182, fax 218-865-163, www.evidenciahoteis.com, hotellisboatejo@evidenciagrupo.com).
Near Praça Rossio
<$$> Pensão Residencial Gerês rents 20 bright, basic, cozy rooms with older plumbing. The pension lacks the dingy smokiness that pervades Lisbon's cheaper hotels (S-€45, Sb-€55, Db-€60–75, Tb-€85, 10 percent discount through 2005 with cash and this book, no breakfast, Internet access, uphill a block off northeast corner of Praça Rossio, Calçada do Garcia 6, tel. 218-810-497, fax 218-882-006, www.pensaogeres.web.pt, pensaogeres@mail.telepac.pt, Nogueira family speaks some English).
<$> Residencial Florescente rents 72 rooms on the "eating lane," a thriving pedestrian street a block off Praça dos Restauradores (see page TK). It's an Old World slumber mill with narrow halls but comfortable and clean rooms (Sb-€40, Db-€50, Db/twin-€60, Tb-€70, includes breakfast, air-con, Rua Portas de Santo Antão 99, tel. 213-463-517, fax 213-427-733, www.residencialflorescente.com, SE).
<$> Albergaria Residencial Insulana, on a pedestrian street, is professional--dark, masculine, and a bit smoky--with 32 quiet and comfortable rooms (big Sb-€50, Db-€55, extra bed-€15, includes breakfast, elevator, air-con, Rua da Assuncão 52, tel. 213-423-131, fax 213-428-924, www.insulana.cjb.net, insulana@netc.pt, Fernando SE).
Along Avenida da Liberdade
These listings are a 10-minute walk or short Metro ride from the center. The following two places, jointly owned, offer a deal in July and August: Free entrance to Lisbon's museums for guests who stay at least three nights.
<$$$> Hotel Lisboa Plaza — a large, plush, four-star gem — mixes traditional style with bright-pastel modern classiness. With 106 rooms, it offers all the comforts, snappy and polite service, and a free glass of port with this book (Sb-€146–165, Db-€156–185, Tb-€183–227, the higher prices apply March–June and Sept–Oct, larger "superior" rooms cost 25 percent more, buffet breakfast-€12.50, air-con, laundry service, 2 non-smoking and 1 non-allergic floor, parking-€9/day, well located on a quiet street off busy Avenida da Liberdade, a block from Metro: Avenida; from Metro, walk downhill and turn right at Travessa do Salitre; Travessa do Salitre 7, tel. 213-218-218, fax 213-471-630, www.heritage.pt, plaza.hotels@heritage.pt).
<$$$> Hotel Britania maintains its 1940s Art Deco feel throughout its 30 spacious rooms, offering a clean and professional haven on a tranquil street one block off Avenida da Liberdade. Run by the Lisboa Plaza folks (above), it offers the same four-star standards for the same prices (air-con, elevator, laundry service, non-smoking floor, free street parking or €9/day in next-door garage, Metro: Avenida; from Metro stop, walk uphill on boulevard, turn right on Rua Manuel de Jesus Coelho and take first left; Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 17; tel. 213-155-016, fax 213-155-021, www.heritage.pt, britania.hotel@heritage.pt).
<$> Residencia Roma, a hard-working little place, rents 40 basic but comfy rooms. It's tucked away on a side street, 50 yards off the big Avenida da Liberdade (Sb-€45, Db-€60, Tb-€75, 25 percent more in Aug, air-con, no elevator, Travessa da Glória 22, tel. 213-460-557, fax 213-460-557, res.roma@cyclopnet.pt, Christina SE).
<$> Pensão Residencial 13 da Sorte, like Residencia Roma, rents 25 basic rooms on a sleepy side street just off Avenida da Liberdade (big Sb-€35, Db-€45-50, Tb-€60, no breakfast, air-con, elevator, tile floors, Rua do Salitre 13, tel. 213-539-746, tel. & fax 213-531-851).
Away from the Center
<$$> In Belém: For modern comfort on the edge of town, consider Hotel da Torre, which rents 59 rooms next to the monastery (Sb-€76, Db-€90, extra bed-€15–18, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, double-paned windows, Rua dos Jerónimos 8, tel. 213-616-940, fax 213-616-946, www.maisturismo.pt/htorre, hoteldatorre.belem@mail.telepac.pt).
<$$> Hotel Ibis: Three Ibis hotels offer plain, modern comforts with no character in soulless areas away from the center--but with handy Metro stations nearby. For a good price, you'll get no-stress rooms for a good price. Each has non-smoking floors, air-conditioning, €4 breakfasts, and a cookie-cutter feel (www.ibishotel.com). Ibis Liberdade has the best location (Sb/Db-€61, 2 blocks from Avenida da Liberdade's Hotel Tivoli, Metro: Avenida, Barata Salgueiro 53, tel. 213-300-630, fax 213-300-631). The others are Ibis Saldanha (Sb/Db-€59, 2-min walk from Metro: Saldanha, near the long-distance bus station, Avenida Casal Ribeiro 23, tel. 213-191-690, fax 213-191-699) and Ibis Lisboa-Centro (Sb/Db-€55, next to Metro: Praça de Espanha, Avenida Jose Malhoa, tel. 217-235-700, fax 217-235-701).