Eating in Madrid
In Spain, only Barcelona rivals Madrid for tastebud thrills. You have three dining choices: an atmospheric sit-down meal in a well-chosen restaurant, an unmemorable basic sit-down meal, or a stand-up meal of tapas in a bar or four. Many restaurants are closed in August (especially through the last half).
Eating Cheaply North of Puerta del Sol
Restaurante Puerto Rico has good meals, great prices, and few tourists (€7.50 3-course menu, Mon–Sat 13:00–16:30 & 20:30–24:00, closed Sun, Chinchilla 2, between Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía, tel. 915-322-040).
Hotel Europa Cafeteria is a fun, high-energy scene with a mile-long bar, traditionally clad waiters, great people-watching, local cuisine, and a fine €8 lunch menu (daily 7:30–24:00, next to Hotel Europa, 50 yards off Puerta del Sol at Calle del Carmen 4, tel. 915-212-900).
El Corte Inglés' seventh-floor cafeteria is popular with locals (Mon–Sat 10:00–11:30 & 13:00–16:15 & 17:30–20:00, closed Sun, has non-smoking section, just off Puerta del Sol at intersection of Preciados and Tetuán).
Casa Labra Taberna Restaurante is famous among locals as the place where the Spanish Socialist Party was founded in 1879...and where you can get great cod. Packed with locals, it's a wonderful scene with three distinct sections: the stand-up bar (cheapest, 2 different lines for munchies and drinks), a peaceful little sit-down area in back (a little more expensive but still cheap; good €4 salads), and a fancy restaurant (€15 lunches). Their tasty little €1 bacalao (cod) dishes put it on the map. The waiters are fun to joke around with (daily 11:00–15:30 & 18:00–23:00, a block off Puerta del Sol at Calle Tetuán 12, tel. 915-310-081).
Vegetarian: Artemisia II is a hit with vegetarians who like good, healthy food in a smoke-free room (great €9.50 three-course lunch menu Mon–Fri only, daily 13:30–16:00 & 21:00–24:00, 2 blocks north of Puerta del Sol at Tres Cruces 4, a few steps off Plaza Carmen, tel. 915-218-721). Artemisia I, II's older sister, is located two blocks east of Plaza Santa Ana at Ventura de la Vega 4, off San Jerónimo (same hours, tel. 914-295-092).
On or near Plaza Mayor
Many Americans are drawn to Ernest Hemingway's favorite, Sobrino del Botín (daily 13:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, Cuchilleros 17, a block downhill from Plaza Mayor, tel. 913-664-217). It's touristy, pricey (€24–30 average), and the last place he'd go now...but still, people love it and the food is excellent. If phoning to make a reservation, choose between the downstairs (for dark, medieval-cellar ambience) or upstairs (for a still-traditional but airier and lighter elegance). While this restaurant boasts it's the oldest in the world (dating from 1725), a nearby restaurant teases, "Hemingway never ate here."
Restaurante los Galayos is less touristy and plenty típico, with good local cuisine (daily 8:00–24:00, lunch specials, lunch from 12:00, dinner anytime, arrive early or make a reservation, 30 yards off Plaza Mayor at Botoneras 5, tel. 913-663-028). For many, dinner right on the square at a sidewalk café is worth the premium (consider Cervecería Pulpito, southwest corner of the square at #10).
La Torre del Oro Bar Andalu on Plaza Mayor has soul. Die-hard bullfight aficionados hate the gimmicky Bull Bar listed under "Tapas," below. Here the walls are lined with grisly bullfight photos from annual photo competitions (read the gory description in "Introductory Walk," page TK). Have a drink but establish all prices first. Don't let the aggressive staff bully you into high-priced tapas you don't want (daily 8:00–15:00 & 18:00–24:00, closed Jan, Plaza Mayor 26, tel. 913-665-016).
Plaza Mayor is famous for its bocadillos de calamares. For a cheap and tasty squid-ring sandwich, line up at Casa Rúa at Plaza Mayor's northwest corner, a few steps up Calle Ciudad Rodrigo (daily 9:00–23:00). Hanging up behind the bar is a photo/ad of Plaza Mayor from the 1950s, when the square contained a park.
Calle Cava Baja, South of Plaza Mayor
Few tourists frequent this traditional neighborhood — Barrio de los Austrias, named for the Hapsburgs. It's three minutes south of Plaza Mayor, or a 10-minute walk from Puerta del Sol. The street, Cava Baja, lined with a diverse array of restaurants and tapas bars, is clogged with locals out in search of a special meal. For a good, authentic Madrileño dinner experience, take time to survey the many places along this street — between the first and last listings described below — and choose your favorite. A key wine-drinking phrase is mucho cuerpo (full-bodied).
Posada de la Villa serves Castilian cuisine in a 17th-century posada. Peek into the big oven to see what's cooking (€30 meals, Mon–Sat 13:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, closed Sun and Aug, Calle Cava Baja 9, tel. 913-661-860).
El Schotis is less expensive and specializes in meat and fish dishes. Named after a popular local dance, the restaurant retains the traditional character of old Madrid (daily 12:00–17:00 & 20:00–24:00, Calle Cava Baja 11, tel. 913-653-230).
Julian de Tolosa, a classy, pricey, elegantly simple place popular with locals who know good food, offers a small, quality menu of Navarra's regional cuisine from T-bone steak (chuletón) to red tolosa beans (Mon–Sat 13:30–16:00 & 21:00–24:00, Sun 13:30–16:00; when having lunch, claim your free aperitif with this book; Calle Cava Baja 18, tel. 913-658-210).
Taberna los Lucio has good tapas, salads, huevos estrellados (scrambled eggs with potatoes), and wine (Wed–Mon 13:00–16:00 & 20:30–24:00, closed Tue, Calle Cava Baja 30, tel. 913-662-984).
For a splurge, dine with power-dressing locals at Casa Lucio. While the king and queen of Spain eat here, it's more stuffy than expensive (daily 13:00–17:00 & 21:00–24:00, Calle Cava Baja 35; unless you're the king or queen, reserve several days in advance, tel. 913-653-252).
Taberna Tempranillo, ideal for hungry wine-lovers, offers tapas and 250 kinds of wine. Use their fascinating English menu to assemble your dream meal. Arrive by 20:00 or wait (daily 13:00–15:30 & 20:00–24:00, closed Aug, Cava Baja 38, tel. 913-641-532).
Tapa-Hopping on Calle del Nuncio (near Calle Cava Baja)
El Madroño ("The Strawberry Tree," a symbol of Madrid) is a fun tapas bar that preserves chunks of old Madrid. A tile copy of Velázquez's famous Drinkers grins from its facade. Inside, look above the stairs for photos of 1902 Madrid. Study the coats of arms of Madrid through the centuries as you try a vermut on tap and a €2 sandwich, or ask to try the licor de madroño (€7.80 lunch menu also available, Tue–Sun 9:00–17:00 & 20:00–24:00, closed Mon, Plaza Puerta Cerrada 7, tel. 913-645-629).
Taberna los Austrias, two blocks away, serves tapas, salads, and light meals on wood-barrel tables (daily 12:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, Calle Nuncio 17).
Next door is the very hip and popular Taberna de los 100 Vinos ("Tavern of 100 Wines"), a classy wine bar serving top-end tapas and fine wine by the glass — see the chalkboard. Eat delicious €3.25 pinchos standing up, or sit down for excellent €10 raciones (Tue–Sat 13:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, closed Sun–Mon, Calle Nuncio 17).
Near the Royal Palace
Casa Ciriaco is popular with locals who appreciate good traditional cooking (€30 meals, Thu–Tue 13:30–16:00 & 20:30–24:00, closed Wed and Aug, halfway between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace at Calle Mayor 84, tel. 915-480-620). It was from this building in 1906 that an anarchist bombed the royal couple on their wedding day (for details, see "Introductory Walk," page TK). A photo of the carnage is inside the front door.
La Bola Taberna, touristy but friendly and tastefully elegant, specializes in cocido Madrileño — Madrid stew. The €15 stew consists of various meats, carrots, and garbanzo beans in earthen jugs. It's big enough to split and is served as two courses; first you enjoy the broth as a soup (weekdays 13:00–16:00 & 20:30–23:00, often closed Sat–Sun, cash only, midway between the Royal Palace and Gran Vía at Calle Bola 5, tel. 915-476-930).
Café Ricordi, just a block from the Royal Theater, is a delightfully romantic little spot, perfect for theatergoers. You can enjoy tiny sandwiches with a glass of wine, coffee, and an elegant sweet, or a full meal in this café/bar/restaurant (Tue–Sat 12:00–24:00, closed Sun-Mon, Calle Arrieta 5, tel. 915-479-200).
Near the Prado
Each of the big-three art museums has a decent cafeteria. Or choose from these three places, all within a block of the Prado:
La Platería Bar Museo is a hardworking little café/wine bar with a good menu for tapas, light meals, and hearty salads (listed as raciones and 1/2 raciones on the chalkboard). Its tables spill onto the leafy little Plaza de Platarías de Matínez (daily 7:30–24:00, directly across busy boulevard Paseo del Prado from Atocha end of Prado, tel. 914-291-722).
Taberna de Dolores, a winning formula since 1908, is a commotion of locals enjoying €2 canapés (open-face sandwiches), tasty almejas (clams), and cañas (small beers) at the bar or at a few tables in the back (daily 13:00–24:00, Plaza de Jesús 4, tel. 914-292-243).
VIPS is where good-looking young tour guides eat cheap and filling salads. This bright, popular chain restaurant is engulfed in a big bookstore (daily 9:00–3:00 in morning, across Paseo del Prado boulevard from northern end of Prado in Galería del Prado under Palace Hotel facing Plaza Canovas). Spain's first Starbucks opened in April 2001, just next door.
Fast Food and Picnics
Fast Food: For an easy, light, cheap meal, try Rodilla — a popular sandwich chain with a shop on the northeast corner of Puerta del Sol at #13 (Mon–Fri 9:30–23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-23:00). Pans & Company, with shops throughout Madrid and Spain, offers healthy, tasty sandwiches and chef's salads (daily 9:00–24:00, on Puerta del Sol, Plaza Callao, Gran Vía 30, and many more).
Picnics: The department store El Corte Inglés has a well-stocked deli downstairs (Mon–Sat 10:00–22:00, closed Sun). A perfect place to assemble a cheap picnic is downtown Madrid's neighborhood market, Mercado de San Miguel. How about breakfast surrounded by early-morning shoppers in the market's café? (Mon–Fri 9:00–14:30 & 17:15–20:15, Sat 9:00–14:30, closed Sun; to reach the market from Plaza Mayor, face the colorfully painted building and exit from the upper left-hand corner.) The Museo del Jamón (Museum of Ham) sells cheap picnics to go (see "Tapas: The Madrid Pub-Crawl Dinner" on the next page).
Tapas: The Madrid Pub-Crawl Dinner
For maximum fun, people, and atmosphere, go mobile and do the "tapa tango," a local tradition of going from one bar to the next, munching, drinking, and socializing. Tapas are the toothpick appetizers, salads, and deep-fried foods served in most bars. Madrid is Spain's tapas capital — tapas just don't get any better. Grab a toothpick and stab something strange, but establish the prices first, especially if you're on a tight budget or at a possible tourist trap. Some items are very pricey, and most bars push larger raciones rather than smaller tapas. The real action begins late (around 20:00). But for beginners, an earlier start, with less commotion, can be easier. The litter on the floor is normal; that's where people traditionally toss their trash and shells. Don't worry about paying until you're ready to go. Then ask for la cuenta (the bill).
If done properly, a pub crawl can be a highlight of your trip. Before embarking upon this culinary adventure, study and use the "Tapas Tips" section in the introduction.
Prowl the area between Puerta del Sol and Plaza Santa Ana. There's no ideal route, but the little streets (in this book's map) between Puerta del Sol, San Jerónimo, and Plaza Santa Ana hold tasty surprises. Nearby, the street Jesús de Medinaceli is also lined with popular tapas bars. Below is a five-stop tapa crawl. These places are good, but don't be blind to making discoveries on your own.
1. From Puerta del Sol, walk east a block down Carrera de San Jerónimo to the corner of Calle Victoria. Across from the Museo del Jamón, you'll find La Taurina Cervecería, a bullfighters' Planet Hollywood (daily 8:00–24:00). Wander among trophies and historic photographs. Each stuffed bull's head is named, along with its farm, awards, and who killed him. Among the many gory photos study the first post: It's Che Guevara, Orson Welles, and Salvador Dalí, all enjoying a good fight. Around the corner, the Babe Ruth of bullfighters, El Cordobes, lies wounded in bed. The photo below shows him in action. Kick off your pub crawl with a drink here. Inspired, I went for the rabo de toro (bull-tail stew, €10.50) — and regretted it. If a fight's on, the place will be packed with aficionados gathered around the TV. Across the street at San Jerónimo 5 is the...
2. Museo del Jamón (Museum of Ham), tastefully decorated — unless you're a pig (or a vegetarian). This frenetic, cheap, stand-up bar is an assembly line of fast and simple bocadillos and raciones. Photos show various dishes and their prices. For a small sandwich, ask for a chiquito (€0.60, unadvertised). The best ham is the pricey jamón ibérico — from pigs who led stress-free lives in acorn-strewn valleys. Just point and eat, but be specific; a jamón blanco portion costs only €5, while jamón ibérico costs €12 (daily 9:00–24:00, sit-down restaurant upstairs). Next, forage halfway up Calle Victoria to the tiny...
3. La Casa del Abuelo, for seafood-lovers who savor sizzling plates of tasty little gambas (shrimp) and langostinos (prawns). Try gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp, €4.15) or gambas al ajillo (ahh-HHEEE-yoh, shrimp version of escargot, cooked in oil and garlic and ideal for bread dipping, €5.80), and a €1.20 glass of red wine (daily 11:30–15:30 & 18:30–23:30, Calle Victoria 12). Across the street is...
4. Oreja de Oro ("Golden Ear"), named for what it sells — sautéed pigs' ears (oreja, €2.50). While pigs' ears are a Madrid specialty, this place is Galician, so people also come here for pulpo (octopus, €8.50), pimientos de padrón (green peppers...some sweet and a few hot surprises, €3), and the distinctive ribeiro (ree-BAY-roh) wine, served Galician-style, in characteristic little ceramic bowls (to disguise its lack of clarity). Jaime is a frantic one-man show who somehow gets everything just right. Have fun at this place. For a perfect finale, continue uphill and around the corner to...
5. Casa Toni, for refreshing bowls of gazpacho — the cold tomato-and-garlic soup (€1.50, available all year but only popular when temperatures soar). Their specialties are berenjena (deep-fried slices of eggplant, €3.60) and champiñones (sautéed mushrooms, €3.70; open daily 11:30–16:00 & 18:00–23:30, closed July, Calle Cruz 14).
More Options: If you're hungry for more, and want a trendy, up-to-date tapas scene, head for Plaza Santa Ana. The south side of the square is lined with lively bars offering good tapas, drinks, and a classic setting right on the square. Consider Cervecería de Santa Ana (tasty tapas with two zones: rowdy beer-hall and classier sit-down) and La Moderna (wine, pâté, and cheese plates).
If you're picking up speed and looking for a place filled with old tiles and young people, power into Bar Viva Madrid (daily 13:00-3:00, Calle Manuel Fernández y González, tel. 914-293-640). The same street has other late-night bars filled with music.