Sleeping in Madrid
Madrid has plenty of centrally located budget hotels and pensiones. You'll have no trouble finding a sleepable double for €30, a good double for €60, and a modern air-conditioned double with all the comforts for €100. Prices are the same throughout the year, and it's almost always easy to find a place. Anticipate full hotels May 15 to May 25 (the festival of Madrid's patron saint, Isidro) and the last week in September (conventions). In July and August prices can be softer — ask about promotional deals. All of the accommodations I've listed are within a few minutes' walk of Puerta del Sol.
The Pedestrian Zone between Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía
Reliable and away from the seediness, these hotels are good values for those wanting to spend a little more. Their formal prices may be inflated, and some offer weekend and summer discounts whenever it's slow. Use Metro: Sol for all but Hotel Opera (Metro: Opera).
<$$$> Hotel Regente is a big and traditional place with 154 tastefully decorated and comfortable air-conditioned rooms, a great location, and a great value (Sb-€63, Db-€105, Tb-€128, tax not included, breakfast-€4.50, parking-€13, midway between Puerta del Sol and Plaza del Callao at Mesonero Romanos 9, tel. 915-212-941, fax 915-323-014, www.hotelregente.com, info@hotelregente.com).
<$$$> Hotel Arosa charges the same for all of its 134 rooms, whether they're sleekly remodeled Art Deco or just aging gracefully. Ask for a remodeled room with a terrace (Sb-€116, Db-€178, Tb-€240, 20 percent cheaper July-Aug, tax not included, breakfast-€13, air-con, memorably tiny triangular elevator, a block off Plaza del Carmen, Calle Salud 21, tel. 915-321-600, fax 915-313-127, arosa@hotelarosa.com).
<$$$> The huge, business-class Hotel Liabeny has 220 plush, spacious rooms and all the comforts (Sb-€100, Db-€135, Tb-€155, 10 percent cheaper July-Aug, tax not included, breakfast-€14, air-con, if one room is smoky ask for another, sauna, gym, off Plaza del Carmen at Salud 3, tel. 915-319-000, fax 915-327-421, www.liabeny.es , reservas@hotelliabeny.es ).
<$$$> Hotel Opera , a serious and modern hotel with 79 classy rooms, is located just off Plaza Isabel II, a four-block walk from Puerta del Sol toward the Royal Palace (Sb-€99, Db-€132, Db with big view terrace-€145, Tb-€170, tax not included, buffet breakfast-€10, air-con, elevator, free Internet access, ask for a higher floor — there are 8 — to avoid street noise; consider their "singing dinners" offered nightly at 21:30 — average price €55, reservations wise; Cuesta de Santo Domingo 2, Metro: Opera, tel. 915-412-800, fax 915-416-923, www.hotelopera.com, reservas@hotelopera.com). Hotel Opera's cafeteria is understandably popular.
<$$$> Hotel Santo Domingo has artsy paintings, an inviting lounge, and 121 rooms, each decorated differently (Sb-€127, Db-€184, tax not included, pricier superior rooms are not necessary, air-con, elevator, non-smoking floor, facing Metro: Santo Domingo, Plaza de Santo Domingo 13, tel. 915-479-800, fax 915-475-995, www.hotelsantodomingo.net , reserva@hotelsantodomingo.net) . Prices drop €30 — and breakfast is included — on weekends (Fri-Sun) and July-Aug.
<$$> Hotel Europa has red-carpet charm: a royal salon, plush halls with happy Muzak, polished wood floors, an attentive staff, and 80 squeaky-clean rooms with balconies overlooking the pedestrian zone or an inner courtyard (Sb-€59, Db-€75-95, Tb-€105, Qb-€120, Quint/b-€135, tax not included, breakfast-€5.50, easy phone reservations with credit card, fans or air-con, elevator, fine lounge on 2nd floor, Calle del Carmen 4, tel. 915-212-900, fax 915-214-696, www.hoteleuropa.net, info@hoteleuropa.net, Antonio and Fernando Garaban and their helpful and jovial staff, Javi and Jim, SE). The convenient Europa cafeteria/restaurant next door is a great scene, fun for breakfast, and a fine value any time of day.
<$$> Euromadrid Hotel — like a cross between a Motel 6 and an old hospital — rents 35 white rooms in a modern but well-worn shell (big Sb-€60, Db-€80, tight Tb-€96, includes continental breakfast but not tax, air-con, discounted rate for parking-€13/day, Mesonero Romanos 7, tel. 915-217-200, fax 915-214-582, clasit@infonegocio.com).
<$$> The basic Hotel Anaco has a drab color scheme and a dreary lobby, but offers 39 quiet, comfortable rooms in a central location (Sb-€78, Db-€97, Tb-€131, bed extra €34, tax not included, breakfast-€5, air-con, elevator, non-smoking floor, Tres Cruces 3, a few steps off Plaza del Carmen and its underground parking lot-€13.80/day, tel. 915-224-604, fax 915-316-484, www.anacohotel.com, info@anacohotel.com).
<$$> Hotel Plaza Mayor , with 32 solidly outfitted rooms, is beautifully situated a block off Plaza Mayor (Sb-€48, Db-€70-80, corner "suite" Db-€85, Tb-€85, air-con, elevator, buffet breakfast-€7, Calle Atocha 2, tel. 913-600-606, fax 913-600-610, www.h-plazamayor.com, info@h-plazamayor.com, Fedra SE).
<$> Hostal Acapulco , overlooking the fine little Plaza del Carmen, rents 16 bright rooms with air-conditioning and all the big hotel gear. The neighborhood is quiet enough that it's smart to request a room with a balcony (Sb-€43, Db-€53, Tb-€67, elevator, Salud 13, 4th floor, tel. 915-311-945, fax 915-322-329, hostal_acapulco@yahoo.es, Marco SE).
<$> Hostal Triana , at the same address as Acapulco and also a fine deal, is bigger — with 40 rooms — and offers a little less charm for a little less money (Sb-€37, Db-€50, Tb-€65, €3 extra for air-con, taxes included, half the rooms have only fans, elevator, Calle de la Salud 13, 1st floor, tel. 915-326-812, fax 915-229-729, www.hostaltriana.com, triana@hostaltriana.com, Victor González SE).
<$> Hostales at Gran Vía 44: The next three are in the same building at Gran Vía 44, overlooking the busy street. All are cheap and work in a jam. Hostal Helena , on the ninth floor, is a homey burgundy-under-heavy-drapes kind of place, renting 10 fine rooms. Enjoy the great little roof garden (S-€30, Ds-€42, Db-€45, Tb-€60, elevator, fans, Internet access, Gran Vía 44, tel. & fax 915-217-585, www.geocities.com/hostalhelena, hostalhelena @yahoo.es, José Luis, SE). The next two are well-worn with stark rooms and traffic noise: Hostal Residencia Valencia with 30 rooms (Sb-€40, Ds-€50, Db-€53, Tb-€68, includes tax, 5th floor, tel. 915-221-115, fax 915-221-113, www.hostal-valencia.com, info@hostal-valencia.com, Antonio SE) and Hostal Residencia Continental with 34 rooms (Sb-€37, Db-€48, Tb-€66, includes tax, fans, 3rd floor, tel. 915-214-640, fax 915-214-649, www.hostalcontinental.com, continental@mundivia.es, Andres SE).
On or near Plaza Santa Ana
The Plaza Santa Ana area has small, cheap places mixed in with fancy hotels. While the neighborhood is noisy at night, it has a rough but charming ambience, with colorful bars and a central location (3 min from Puerta del Sol's Tío Pepe sign; walk down Calle San Jerónimo and turn right on Príncipe; Metro: Sol).
<$$$> Suite Prado , two blocks toward the Prado from Plaza Santa Ana, is a good value, offering 18 sprawling, elegant, air-conditioned suites with a modern yet homey feel (suites are all the same size, charging €122 for single, €153 double, and €176 triple occupancy; sitting rooms, refrigerators, kitchens, 2nd kid free, breakfast at café next door-€4, elevator, Manuel Fernandez y Gonzalez 10, at intersection with Venture de la ega, tel. 914-202-318, fax 914-200-559, www.suiteprado.com, hotel@suiteprado.com, Paula and Elena SE).
<$> Residencia Hostal Lisboa , across the street from Suite Prado (above), is a good budget place (25 rooms, Sb-€44, Db-€54, Tb-€75, interior rooms quieter on weekends, air-con, elevator, Ventura de la Vega 17, tel. 914-294-676, fax 914-299-894, www.hostallisboa.com , hostallisboa@inves.es, SE).
<$> Hostal R. Veracruz II , between Plaza Santa Ana and Puerta del Sol, rents 22 decent, quiet rooms (Sb-€36, Db-€50, Tb-€63, no breakfast, elevator, air-con, Victoria 1, 3rd floor, tel. 915-227-635, fax 915-226-749, hostalveracruz@yahoo.es, NSE).
<$> Cheap Hostel Alternative: Because of the following place, I don't list a youth hostel for Madrid. For supercheap beds in a dingy time warp, consider Hostal Lucense. Bathrooms are down the hall and there's no heat during winter (13 rooms, S-€15-18, D-€18-25, Db-€28-36, T-€38, €1.20 per shower, no CC, Nuñez de Arce 15, 1st floor, tel. 915-224-888, run by not-so-friendly Sr. and Sra. Michaela García, both interesting characters, Señor SE).
Near the Prado
<$$$> Hotel Green Lope de Vega is your best business-class hotel value near the Prado. A four-star place that opened in 2000, it's a "cultural-themed" hotel inspired by the 18th-century writer Lope de Vega. It feels cozy and friendly for a formal business-class hotel (60 rooms, Sb-€108, Db-€135, Tb-€182, 1 child sleeps free, prices about 20 percent lower on weekends and during most of the summer, elevator, air-con, Internet access, parking-€18/day, Calle Lope de Vega 49, tel. 913-600-011, fax 914-292-391, www.hotellopedevega.com, lopedevega@hotellopedevega.com, SE).
<$> At Cervantes 34: Two fine budget places are at Cervantes 34 (Metro: Anton Martin). Hostal Gonzalo — with 15 spotless, comfortable rooms, well run by friendly and helpful Javier — is deservedly in all the guidebooks. Reserve in advance (Sb-€45, Db-€52, Tb-€63, elevator, 3rd floor, tel. 914-292-714, fax 914-202-007, www.hostalgonzalo.com ). Downstairs, the nearly as polished Hostal Cervantes , also with 15 fine rooms , is likewise good (Sb-€45, Db-€55, Tb-€65; cheaper on weekdays, in low season, and for longer stays; 2nd floor, tel. 914-298-365, fax 914-292-745, www.hostal-cervantes.com, correo@hostal-cervantes.com, Fabio SE).