In this final episode of our three-part series on the Eternal City, we explore this grand metropolis — so rich in art and culture — on a more intimate scale, delving into its back lanes and unheralded corners. Venturing through the crusty Trastevere district, visiting the historic Jewish Ghetto, and lacing together art treasures in a string of rarely visited churches, we uncover charms of hidden Rome that compete with its marquee sights.

