Home > Rick on TV > Guide to Shows > Sevilla & Andalusia

Sevilla and Andalusia: Travel Details

This is a quick and handy source for details on the sights, hotels, tour guides and restaurants featured in "Sevilla and Andalusia" show. For much more (and updates), see this year's edition of Rick Steves' Spain guidebook.

Sevilla
Arcos

Sevilla

Flamenco

Los Gallos gives nightly two-hour shows at 21:00 and 23:30 (€27 ticket includes a drink, manager Nuria promises goosebumps and a €2 per person discount to those who book directly with Los Gallos and show this book — maximum 2 per book; arrive 30 min early for better seats without obstructed views, Plaza de Santa Cruz 11, tel. 954-216-981). El Arenal also does a good show (€29 including a drink, shows at 21:00 and 23:00, near bullring at Calle Rodo 7, tel. 954-216-492). El Patio Sevillano is more of a variety show (€26, shows at 19:30 and 22:00, next to bullring at Paseo de Cristobal Colón, tel. 954-214-120). These packaged shows can be a bit sterile and an audience of tourists doesn't help. But I find both Los Gallos and El Arenal professional and riveting. El Arenal may have a slight edge on talent, but Los Gallos has a cozier setting, with cushy rather than hard chairs — and it's cheaper.

Casa para la Memoria de Alandalus (House for the Memory of Alandalus), run by devotees of the Andalusian culture Sebastián and Rossana, offers more of an intimate concert with a smaller cast and more classic solos. In an alcohol-free atmosphere, tourists sit on folding chairs circling a small stage for shows featuring flamenco, Sephardic, or other Andalusian music. Their exhibits on Sephardic and Muslim art and musical instruments are a fresh change in a city full of Baroque and Christian icons. It's also a perfect place to practice your Spanish fan (abanico) skills on warm nights. Summer concerts are nightly at 21:00 and 22:30 (off-season at 21:00). Wednesday concerts are Sephardic rather than flamenco (€11, 60-min shows vary, reservations welcome, be there 45 min before show starts for best seats, Ximénez Enciso 28, in Barrio de Santa Cruz, adjacent to Hotel Alcántara, tel. 954-560-670, memorias@teleline.es).

Impromptu flamenco still erupts spontaneously in bars throughout the old town after midnight. Just follow your ears as you wander down Calle Betis, leading off Plaza de Cuba across the bridge. The Lo Nuestro and Rejoneo bars are local favorites (at Calle Betis 30 and 32).

For flamenco music without dancing, consider La Carbonería Bar. The sangria equivalent of a beer garden, it's a sprawling place with a variety of rooms leading to a big, open, tented area filled with young locals, casual guitar strummers and nearly nightly flamenco music after midnight. Located just a few blocks from most of my recommended hotels, this is worth finding for anyone not quite ready to end the day (no cover, €2 sangria, 20:00–3:00, near Plaza Santa Maria find Hotel Fernando III, the side alley Cespedes deadends at Levies, head left to Levies 18, unsigned door).

Concepción Delgado

An enthusiastic teacher and a joy to listen to, Concepción takes small groups on English-language-only walks. Using me as her guinea pig, Concepción has designed a fine two-hour introduction to the city, sharing important insights the average visitor misses. Her cultural show-and-tell is worthwhile, even on a one-day visit (€10/person, daily except Sun at 9:30 and 11:30, starting from statue in Plaza Nueva, always call to confirm departure and to reserve a place, tel. 902-158-226, mobile 616-501-100, www.sevillawalkingtours.com, info@sevillawalkingtours.com). For those wanting to really understand the city's two most important sights, she also offers a Cathedral/Alcazar tour daily at 15:15 (€12 plus admissions, 2.5 hours, call first to confirm and meet at statue in Plaza Triunfo).

Alcázar

Originally a 10th-century palace built for the governors of the local Moorish state, this still functions as a royal palace...the oldest still in use in Europe. What you see today is an extensive 14th-century rebuild, done by Moorish workmen (Mudejar) for the Christian King Pedro I. Pedro was nicknamed either "the Cruel" or "the Just," depending on which end of his sword you were on (€5, Tue–Sat 9:30–19:00, Sun 9:30–17:00, off-season Tue–Sat 9:30–17:00, Sun 10:30–13:00, closed Mon, tel. 954-502-323). The €3 audioguide is tempting and tries hard. But sorry, there's no way to make this palace worth a flowery hour of hard-to-follow commentary. (You could alsoconsider Concepción's tour.)

The Alcázar is a thought-provoking glimpse of a graceful Al-Andalus (Moorish) world that might have survived its Castilian conquerors — but didn't. But I have a tough time hanging any specific history on it. The floor plan is intentionally confusing, part of the style designed to make experiencing the place more exciting and surprising. While Granada's Alhambra was built by Moors for Moorish rulers, what you see here is essentially a Christian ruler's palace, built in the Moorish style.

Sevilla's Cathedral

This is the third-largest church in Europe (after the Vatican's St. Peter's and London's St. Paul's) and the largest Gothic church anywhere. They built for 120 years. Even today, the descendants of those madmen proudly display an enlarged photocopy of their Guinness Book of Records letter certifying, "The cathedral with the largest area is: Santa María de la Sede in Sevilla, 126 meters long, 82 meters wide and 30 meters high" (€7, June–mid-Sept Mon–Sat 9:30–15:30, free on Sun 14:30–18:00, mid-Sept–June Mon–Sat 11:00–18:00, free on Sun 14:30–19:00, last entry 1 hr before closing, WC and drinking fountain inside near entrance and in courtyard near exit, tel. 954-214-971). The €3 audioguides explain each side chapel in a dry manner (consider Concepción's tour instead).

Basílica de la Macarena

Sevilla's Holy Week celebrations are Spain's grandest. During the week leading up to Easter, the city is packed with pilgrims witnessing 50 processions carrying about 100 religious floats. Get a feel for this event by visiting Basílica de la Macarena (built in 1947) to see the two most impressive floats and the darling of Semana Santa, the Weeping Virgin (Virgen de la Macarena or La Esperanza, church free, museum-€3, daily 9:30–14:00 & 17:00–20:00, taxi to Puerta Macarena or bus #C3 or #C4 from Puerta Jerez, tel. 954-901-800).

Museo de Bellas Artes

Sevilla's passion for religious art is preserved and displayed in its Museum of Fine Art — the Museo de Bellas Artes. While most Americans go for El Greco, Goya and Velázquez (not a forte of this collection), this museum gives a fine look at the other, less-appreciated Spanish masters — Zurbarán and Murillo. Rather than exhausting, the museum is pleasantly enjoyable (€1.50, Tue 14:30–20:30, Wed–Sat 9:00–20:30, Sun 9:00–14:30, closed Mon, bus #C1, #C2, #C3, or #C4 to Pasarela de la Cartuja, Plaza Museo 9, tel. 954-220-790). If short on time, you can see a representative sampling of Zurbarán and Murillo paintings in the cathedral.

The April Fair

For seven days each April (starting 2 weeks after Easter), much of Sevilla is packed into its vast fair grounds for a grand party. Horses clog the streets in an endless parade until about 20:00 when they clear out and the street fills with exuberant locals. The party goes for literally 24 hours a day for the entire week.

Any tourist can have a fun and memorable evening by simply crashing the party. The city's entire fleet of taxis (who'll try to charge double) and buses seems dedicated to shuttling people from downtown to the fairgrounds. With the traffic jams, you may be better off hiking: from the Golden Tower, cross the San Telmo bridge to Plaza Cuba and hike down Calle Asunción. You'll see the towering gate to the fairground in the distance. Just follow the crowds (there's no admission charge). Get there before 20:00 to see the horses but stay later as the ambience improves after they giddy-up on out. Some of the larger tents are sponsored by the city and open to the public, but the best action is in the streets, where party-goers from the livelier casetas spill out. While private tents have bouncers, everyone is so happy, it's not tough to strike up an impromptu friendship, become a "special guest," and be invited in. The drink flows freely and the food is fun and cheap.

Arcos

Restaurant El Convento

Restaurante El Convento, wonderfully atmospheric and graciously run by Señora María Moreno-Moreno and her husband, Señor José Antonio Roldan, serves quality Andalusian cuisine in a dressy setting (generally daily 13:00–16:00 & 19:00–22:00, closed 1 rotating day a week — call to check, near parador at Marqués de Torresoto 7, reservations recommended, tel. 956-703-222). The hearty €24 menu of the day includes a fine house red wine and a glass of sherry with dessert. This is a good opportunity to dine on game.

Hotel El Convento

This hotel, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family, this cozy hotel offers 13 fine rooms — all with great views, half with view balconies. In 1998 I enjoyed a big party with most of Arcos' big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to "Rick Steves Periodista Turístico" — a hint to where I sleep when in Arcos (Sb-€55, Db-€65, Db with terrace-€80, 10 percent discount with cash and this book, third person-€18 extra, includes tax, 20 percent less Nov-Feb, parking on Plaza del Cabildo-€3, Maldonado 2, tel. 956-702-333, fax 956-704-128, www.webdearcos.com/elconvento, elconvento@viautil.com, Estefania and María SE). Bird-watch with à la carte breakfast on their view terrace with all of Andalucía spreading beyond your café con leche.

Back to the "Sevilla and Andalusia" script

Excerpted from Rick Steves' Spain 2005