Home > Rick on TV > Guide to Shows

Siena and Assisi: Italy's Grand Hill Towns

In red-bricked Siena, we tour the town's innovative medieval hospital, lavish cathedral, and a bakery that makes panforte (like fruitcake, only delicious). Exploring the Chianti region, we sip Brunello di Montalcino — with its makers. Spending the night at a farmhouse, we meet the family and its sheep, learn of the Slow Food Movement, and enjoy a homegrown dinner. In Assisi, we follow the footsteps of St. Francis, from his humble chapel to the Giotto-frescoed basilica that holds his tomb.

Travel Details

Palio

In the Palio, the feisty spirit of Siena's 17 contrade (neighborhoods) lives on. These neighborhoods celebrate, worship, and compete together. Each has its own parish church, well or fountain, and even its own historical museum. Contrada pride is evident any time of year in the parades and colorful neighborhood banners, lamps, and wall plaques. (If you hear distant drumming, run to it for some medieval action, often featuring flag-throwers.) But contrada passion is most visible twice a year — on July 2 and August 16 — when they have their world-famous horse race, the Palio di Siena.

On the evening of the big day, Il Campo is stuffed to the brim with locals and tourists, as the horses charge wildly around the square in this literally no-holds-barred race. A horse can win even if its rider has fallen off. Of course, the winning neighborhood is the scene of grand celebrations afterward. Winners receive a palio (banner), typically painted by a local artist and always featuring the Virgin Mary. But the true prize is simply proving your contrada is numero uno.

Santa Maria della Scala

This museum (opposite the Duomo entrance) was used as a hospital until the 1980s. Its labyrinthine 12th-century cellars — carved out of tufa and finished with brick — go down several floors. They once stored supplies for the medieval hospital upstairs. Today the hospital and its cellars are filled with museum exhibits, including these main attractions: the fancy frescoed hall (Pellegrinaio Hall, ground floor), most of the original Fountain of Joy (from which the replica in Il Campo was modeled), St. Catherine's Oratory chapel (first basement), and the Etruscan collection in the Archaeological Museum (second basement).

Albergo Bernini

Via Sapienza 15
Tel. & fax 0577-289-047
hbernin@tin.it

Roberto Bechi

Roberto Bechi, a hardworking Sienese guide, specializes in off-the-beaten-path tours of the surrounding countryside by minibus (up to 8 passengers, convenient pick-up at hotel). Married to an American (Patti) and having run restaurants in Siena and the United States, Roberto communicates well with Americans. His passions are Sienese culture, Tuscan history, and local cuisine. Ideally, book well in advance but you may be able to schedule a visit if you call no later than the day before (tel. 0577-321-004, Anna's mobile 320-147-6590, Roberto's mobile 328-425-5648, info@toursbyroberto.com).

Sylvia Gori

Azienda Agricola Belsedere
53020 Trequanda (Siena) Italia
Tel. & fax 0577-662-307
info@belsedere.com

Basilica of St Francis

The Basilica de San Francesco is one of the artistic and religious highlights of Europe. In 1226, St. Francis was buried (with the outcasts he had stood by) outside of his town on the "Hill of the Damned" — now called the "Hill of Paradise." The basilica is frescoed from top to bottom by the leading artists of the day: Cimabue, Giotto, Simone Martini, and Pietro Lorenzetti. A 13th-century historian wrote, "No more exquisite monument to the Lord has been built." There are three parts to the church: the upper basilica, the lower basilica, and the saint's tomb (below the lower basilica). Free entry, modest dress is required to enter the church — no sleeveless tops or shorts for men, women, or children. (tel. 075-819-0084, assisisanfrancesco@libero.it).

Updated for 2010.