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Highlights of Castile: Travel Details

This is a quick and handy source for details on the sights, hotels, tour guides and restaurants featured in "Highlights of Castile: Toledo and Salamanca" show. For much more (and updates), see this year's edition of Rick Steves' Spain guidebook.

 
 
Mazapán

Toledo's famous almond-fruity-sweet mazapán is sold all over town. Locals say the best is made by Santo Tomé (several outlets, including a handy one on Plaza Zocódover, daily 9:00–22:22). Browse their tempting window displays. They sell mazapán goodies individually (2 for about €1, sin relleno — " without filling" — is for purists, de piñon has pine nuts, imperiales is with almonds, others have fruit fillings) or in small mixed boxes. Their Toledanas is a crumbly cookie favorite with a subtle thread of pumpkin filling.

Santa Cruz Museum

For years, this museum has been in a confused state of renovation — not really open, not really closed. During renovation, the museum's cloister and a room full of its best art will be open and free. If the core of the building is filled with a temporary exhibit, you can generally wander in for a free look. The building's Plateresque facade is worth seeing anytime.

This great Renaissance building was an orphanage and hospital, built from money left by the humanist and diplomat Cardinal Mendoza when he died in 1495. The cardinal, confirmed as Chancellor of Castile by Queen Isabel, was so influential he was called "the third king." The building is in the form of a Greek cross under a Moorish dome. After renovation, the arms of the building — formerly wards — will be filled with 16th-century art, tapestries, furniture, armor and documents. It'll be a stately, classical, music-filled setting with a cruel lack of English information (Mon–Sat 10:00–18:30, Sun 10:00–14:00, just off Plaza Zocódover, go through arch, Cervantes 3).

Santo Tomé

The year is 1312. You're at the burial of the good count, who's being laid to rest right here in this the chapel of Santo Tomé. He was so holy, even saints Augustine and Stephen have come down from heaven to be pallbearers. (The painting's subtitle is "Such is the reward for those who serve God and his saints.")

More than 250 years later, in 1586, a priest hired El Greco to make a painting of the burial to hang over the count's tomb. The funeral is attended by all of Toledo's most distinguished citizens. The painting is divided in two by a serene line of noble faces — heaven above and earth below. Above the line of long, somber faces, the count's soul, symbolized by a little baby, rises up through a mystical birth canal to be reborn in heaven, where he's greeted by Jesus, Mary and all the saints. A spiritual wind blows through as colors change and shapes stretch (€1.50, daily 10:00–18:45, until 17:45 mid-Oct–March, free audioguide, tel. 925-256-098).

 

Hotel Residencia La Almazara

Hotel Residencia La Almazara was the summer residence of a 16th-century archbishop of Toledo. A friend of the cardinal and fond of this location's classic Toledo view, El Greco hung out here for inspiration. A lumbering old place with cushy public rooms, 28 simple bedrooms and a sprawling garden, it's truly in the country but just 1.5 miles out of Toledo (Sb-€30, Db-€41, Db with view-€57, Tb-€48, 10 rooms have view, air-con, Ctra. de Arges 47, follow signs from circular Ronda de Toledo road, tel. 925-223-866, fax 925-250-562, www.hotelalmazara.com, reservas@hotelalmazara.com).

Carlos Galvin

Carlos Galvin, a Spaniard who speaks flawless English (and has led tours for me since 1998), offers private tours when he's in Madrid. If he's out, his American wife, Jennifer, also works as a guide. Carlos mixes a city drive (for the big Madrid picture) with a historic walk (to get intimate with the old center and its ways). This gives a fine three-hour orientation and introduction to Madrid (€79 for individuals and groups up to 3...4 if you'll squeeze). Carlos and Jennifer can also arrange longer tours of both the city and the region (tel. 914-293-790, mobile 661-752-458, www.letango.com, info@letango.com).

Restaurante Casón López de Toledo

A fancy restaurant located in an old noble palace, this restaurant specializes in Castilian food, particularly venison and partridge. Its character unfolds upstairs (€18 meals, Mon–Sat 13:30–16:00 & 20:30–23:30, closed Sun, Calle Sillería 3, near Plaza Zocódover, tel. 925-254-774).

Back to the "Highlight of Castile: Toledo and Salamanca" script

Excerpted from Rick Steves' Spain 2005