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    <title>Rick Steves' Europe</title>
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    <managingEditor>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</managingEditor>
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    <pubDate>2026-04-04 06:00:24 UTC</pubDate>
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    <description>Rick is now offering his weekly travel column, "Rick Steves' Europe," to media outlets for free!</description>
    <copyright>copyright (c) 1996-2026 Rick Steves' Europe</copyright>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">41</guid>
      <title>Easter in Europe</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/easter-in-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-03-26</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>It was Easter week in <a href="/europe/spain/sevilla">Sevilla</a>, Spain, and the scene was holier than ever. Paraders in purple-and-white cone hats shuffled past, carrying crusader swords and four-foot candles. Like American kids scrambling for candies at a parade, Spanish kids collected dripping wax from religious coneheads, attempting to amass the biggest ball on a stick for their Easter souvenir.</p>

<p>The procession squeezed down narrow alleys. Legions of drums cracked eardrums in the confined space. Kids sat wide-eyed on parents&rsquo; shoulders. Finally a float rumbled by: gilded, candlelit, and edging bystanders against rustic ancient walls. I looked up, and high in the sky I saw what Good Friday was all about: An extremely Baroque Jesus lurched forward under the weight of that cruel cross, symbolically climbing to his crucifixion. Later, it occurred to me that he floated not on wheels, but on boys. Unseen and unheralded, bent under all that tradition, a team of boys had been trudging for hours through the throngs.</p>

<p>Throughout Europe, Easter-related festivities fill streets, squares, and stores. For the religious, it&rsquo;s a time of church services, prayers, and rituals. For the secular world, it means feasting, candy, games, and yes &mdash; the Easter Bunny. But even though most of Europe celebrates, each diverse culture pays homage in its own way.</p>

<p>Easter begins in earnest with Holy Week, the seven days leading up to Easter Sunday. Not just in Sevilla, but all over Spain, Semana Santa processions clog the streets. In Britain, Holy Week heralds the arrival of the Morris Dancers. Men in black and white clothes &mdash; with straw hats, red sashes, ribbons, and bells on their ankles &mdash; dance in the streets to chase away winter. They also chase young women, hitting them with an inflated pig bladder on a stick to summon good luck.</p>

<p>Easter markets in <a href="/europe/czech-republic/prague">Prague</a> sell traditional foods and crafts, including hand-painted eggs personalized with your name. From Thursday through Saturday, boys go door to door, shaking rattles to scare off the betrayer, Judas. People give them money in return. Throughout the week, girls paint eggs and boys braid pussy-willow-twig whips. On the morning after Easter, the boys go from house to house, bonking the girls with their whips to grant them good health. In return, the girls give them hand-painted eggs, and for the grown-ups, shots of alcohol. Later that afternoon, the girls splash buckets of cold water on any boys who arrive late, and vow to not speak to those who haven&rsquo;t shown up at all.</p>

<p>On Easter all over Europe, people gather in their Sunday best for the biggest church services of the year. London holds an Easter parade in Battersea Park, and ladies get decked out in fancy handmade bonnets, decorated with ribbons and flowers.</p>

<p>Florence&rsquo;s Scoppio del Carro is one of Europe&rsquo;s grandest Easter spectacles. During Mass in the Duomo, a mechanical dove is sent flying from the altar along a wire. It soars out the doors and into the main square to a centuries-old, two-story, ox-drawn cart. Upon arrival it triggers a magnificent fireworks display &mdash; like a time-release booby-trap left over from the city&rsquo;s Carnevale (pre-Lent) celebrations.</p>

<p><a href="/europe/greece">Greece</a> traditionally celebrates Easter a week or two later than the West (since Eastern Orthodox churches use a different calendar). The seaside village of Kardamyli takes its celebration very seriously: On Good Friday, a processional passes through town and the priest blesses each house. At midnight on Holy Saturday, townspeople turn off their lights and come to the main square. The priest emerges from the church with a candle and spreads light through the candle-carrying crowd, who then take the light home with them. Gradually the entire town is illuminated&hellip;and the fireworks begin.</p>

<p>As in the US, many Europeans celebrate Easter with candy, chocolate eggs (Cadbury Creme Eggs in Britain), gifts, and the Easter Bunny. The English host Easter-egg hunts; other countries hold egg-rolling and egg-tossing contests. Germans hang hollowed-out, decorated eggs from trees and bushes (or on special contraptions called &ldquo;Easter trees&rdquo;).</p>

<p>In <a href="/europe/france">France</a>, it&rsquo;s not about bunnies, but bells. The Flying Bells &mdash; having left on Good Friday to magically fly to the Pope to drop off everyone&rsquo;s misery over the crucifixion &mdash; return on Easter morning with joy and chocolate and eggs. Kids wake to find decorated eggs in their bedrooms and in nests they&rsquo;ve placed outside.</p>

<p>Easter day culminates with a big meal, in which friends and family gather to gorge on meats and sweets. The Brits cook up ham, the Danes eat herring, and the French and Italians serve up lamb. In Greece, people sleep till noon, then rise for the big goat-on-a-spit family lunch. Rather than a big fat Greek wedding, it&rsquo;s a big fat Greek Easter family party.</p>

<p>From floats to fireworks to feasts to family, Easter is a celebration that rivals Christmas in Europe.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/030/157/medium/7275ee7dc3965a6402b6a20f17ddc629/article-italy-rome-easter-basket.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>In many European Easter baskets, chocolate eggs come from — where else? — chocolate hens. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/000/247/medium/2dac9f8dbdeec0fbc633b20cc6a1921a/512a_SevillaConeHats_RS.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>During Spain's Semana Santa (Holy Week), parading penitents dress in robes with pointed hoods. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/019/211/medium/b68558232b586085bdeebfe849119b45/italy-tuscany-easter-rolls-022516-sg.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The traditional Easter bread in some parts of Italy is "ciambelle di Pasqua," which symbolize Jesus' Crown of Thorns. (photo: Simon Griffith)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1274</guid>
      <title>When to Splurge in Europe</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/when-to-splurge-in-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-03-19</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I&#39;ve always been a fan of budget travel tips. For more than 30 years I&#39;ve written and lectured about ways to stow-away, picnic, and get special deals to be able to afford international travel. My feeling has long been that you experience more by spending less. While that&#39;s still true, over the years I&#39;ve realized that you can also justify splurges as good values when you consider the experience gained and the time saved.</p>

<p>If you stay in a B&amp;B rather than a fancy hotel, you&#39;ll enjoy twice the cultural experience and intimacy for half the cost. When it comes to hotels, the irony is that the more you spend &mdash; in many cases &mdash; the farther you get from the culture you traveled so far to experience. Spend enough money&hellip;and you won&#39;t even know where you are.</p>

<p>That said, there are some characteristic hotels that are worth the splurge. I&#39;m always willing to pay a bit more for the convenience of a centrally located hotel, close to the sights. And in the oldest parts of Europe, many of these well-situated hotels come with enough history to themselves be part of the itinerary.</p>

<p>Another great example of a splurge is taking a walking tour led by a knowledgeable guide. You can pick up a map and sort things out on your own, but if you have limited time, you can experience more by investing in a good tour ($20 to $30 per person). In an hour or two, I get a personal, informative, and well-worth-the-price introduction to a city. Proud residents are the best teachers a traveler could have.</p>

<p>I&#39;m a huge fan of Europe&#39;s public transportation, and use it whenever I can. But time, like money, is a limited and valuable resource that needs to be spent smartly. When I&#39;m short on time, a taxi ride that gets me quickly to my destination beats out a long, cheap bus ride. If you&#39;re traveling with two or three others, taxis become an even better value.</p>

<p>To make the most of your time in sprawling destinations that lack good public transportation &mdash; like Normandy&#39;s D-Day beaches, the ch&acirc;teaux of the <a href="/europe/france/loire">Loire River Valley</a>, or Italy&#39;s <a href="/europe/italy/amalfi-coast">Amalfi Coast</a> &mdash; a guided minivan tour can be a smart choice. Or hire a car and driver, and enjoy the luxury: You&#39;re picked up at your hotel and dropped off at your destination &mdash; free to explore until you&#39;re ready to move on (about $300 to $400 for 6 to 8 hours &mdash; more economical if split among several travelers).</p>

<p>Coming from a picnicking, backpacker travel heritage, it took me decades to recognize the value of a fine meal. Now I enthusiastically embrace a drawn-out meal as a wonderful investment in time and money. When you treat yourself to the best meal in town, think about it this way: You&#39;re not paying $50 for just food &mdash; you&#39;re paying for a three-hour sensual experience that happens to include your evening&#39;s nourishment. It&#39;s like taking your palate to a spa in a faraway place.</p>

<p>Lately I&#39;ve also been enjoying food tours, which are becoming trendy throughout Europe. Costing about $65 to $135, these mobile feasts come with several stops in atmospheric restaurants or markets, where you sample local flavors, all explained by a guide. The style varies (stand-up sampling or sit-down dining), but you can expect to get a full meal over the course of the tour, in addition to city lore and culinary insights.</p>

<p>Anything that puts me in touch with the pulse of a place finds room on my splurge list. In Paris &mdash; the City of Light &mdash; a $65 hour-long taxi ride at night gets me a blitz tour of the city&#39;s best views. The French have raised floodlighting to an art form, and Paris makes one beautiful canvas. <em>C&#39;est magnifique!</em></p>

<p>My current favorite splurge? It&#39;s a gondola ride in Venice. In the early evening, when the crowds are gone and the light is right, find a gondolier whose personality you enjoy, settle on a price (about $160 for 50 minutes), grab your special someone, and hop in. Gliding through the dreamy tranquility of your own private Venice is an almost out-of-body experience &mdash; one you&#39;ll never forget.</p>

<p>I&#39;ll probably always grab a picnic, carry my own bags, and wash my socks in hotel sinks, wringing the most value I can from my travel dollar. But I&#39;m learning the goal is not to save the most money. It&#39;s to have the more efficient and enjoyable experience, to use my time as wisely as my vacation dollar, and to know my options so my trip fits both my budget and my dreams.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/016/061/medium/338badadc2e4bdf9f8f767b990612835/09-18-2014_RomeFoodTour_RS.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Experiential sightseeing, such as this food tour of Rome's Testaccio neighborhood, is time and money well spent. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/016/060/medium/c176cd924a1f8094975445e977df64af/09-18-2014_VeniceGondola_RS.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Splurging on a gondola ride in Venice buys you a memory for a lifetime. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2120</guid>
      <title>Sightseeing High and Low in Hilly Lyon</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/sightseeing-in-hilly-lyon</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-03-12</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Smartly situated Lyon &mdash; just south of Burgundy, north of Provence, east of the Alps, and centered on a peninsula at the convergence of two major rivers &mdash; has long been a major culture hub. But its enjoyable cityscape is refreshingly untouristy, despite its welcoming old town, classy shops, worthwhile museums, and renowned cuisine. Just two hours from <a href="/europe/france/paris">Paris</a> by train, <a href="/europe/france/lyon">Lyon</a> makes an easy one- or two-night stopover.</p>

<p>Lyon&#39;s sights are concentrated in three areas: historic Vieux Lyon (the old town, on the bank of the Sa&ocirc;ne River); the Presqu&#39;&icirc;le (the peninsula between the Sa&ocirc;ne and the Rh&ocirc;ne), and Fourvi&egrave;re Hill, with its white Notre-Dame Basilica glimmering above the city.</p>

<p>I&#39;d start my first Lyon sightseeing day with a funicular ride up Fourvi&egrave;re Hill &mdash; where the city was founded as &quot;Lugdunum&quot; by the Romans in 43 BC. From the Fourvi&egrave;re terrace, you can take in a commanding view of Lyon&#39;s old town, with its Renaissance roofs sporting uniform chimneys, and the Presqu&#39;&icirc;le&#39;s elegant 19th-century architecture.</p>

<p>The hill&#39;s landmark is the gleaming <a href="https://www.fourviere.org/en/" target="_blank">Notre-Dame Basilica</a>, built in the late 1800s. Inside this ornate building, everything is covered with elaborate, gleaming mosaics that tell stories of the Virgin Mary. Next to the basilica, a chapel that predates the church by 500 years is capped by a glorious gold statue of Mary overlooking the city.</p>

<p>A short walk from the basilica is the fine <a href="https://lugdunum.grandlyon.com/en/" target="_blank">Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum</a>, built on the hillside, with views of two Roman theaters. You hear the term &quot;Gallo-Roman&quot; a lot in Lyon: As they established their vast empire, the Romans conquered the Gauls (the dominant proto-French tribe) and incorporated them into their culture. For several centuries, this substantial part of the Roman Empire was a Gaulish, or Gallo-Roman, civilization. In the museum you&#39;ll see Roman artifacts, including coins, tools, amphorae (jugs), and a tablet inscribed with a speech given by Emperor Claudius in AD 48. Outside the museum are a big theater, built under the reign of Emperor Augustus and still used today for concerts, and a smaller theater, acoustically designed for speeches and songs.</p>

<p>Back down the hill, Vieux Lyon offers the best concentration of well-preserved Renaissance buildings in France &mdash; vestiges of Lyon&#39;s Golden Age when it was the center of Europe&#39;s silk industry. Pedestrian-friendly lanes &mdash; punctuated with picturesque squares and courtyards &mdash; are made for ambling, window-shopping, and caf&eacute; lingering. You&#39;ll still find local silk here: On Rue du Boeuf, silk purveyor <a href="https://www.lasoieriedesaintjean.com/" target="_blank">Brochier Soieries</a> displays a binary-code &quot;computerized&quot; weaving loom and silkworm exhibit.</p>

<p>The many <em>traboules</em> (covered passageways) in Vieux Lyon once protected unfinished silk goods from the elements; they also worked as shortcuts, connecting the old town&#39;s three main north-south streets. Today, <em>traboules</em> provide a hide-and-seek opportunity to discover pastel courtyards, lovely loggias, and delicate arches.</p>

<p>After an exploration of Vieux Lyon, visitors have a fun assortment of museums to choose from. In a Renaissance mansion named for a wealthy merchant family, the <a href="https://www.gadagne-lyon.fr/" target="_blank">Gadagne Museums</a> offer two exhibits for one ticket price: a serious city history museum and a puppetry museum. The <a href="https://www.mba-lyon.fr/en" target="_blank">Museum of Fine Arts</a>, in a former abbey on the Presqu&#39;&icirc;le, has an impressive collection, ranging from Egyptian antiquities to Impressionist paintings, and its inner courtyard is a pleasant place to take a peaceful break from city streets. Also on the Presqu&#39;&icirc;le are the <a href="https://www.museedestissus.fr/" target="_blank">Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts</a>, filling two buildings and sharing a courtyard.</p>

<p>On the east bank of the Rh&ocirc;ne, the <a href="https://www.chrd.lyon.fr/" target="_blank">Resistance and Deportation History Center</a> explains the clever strategies Lyon&#39;s Resistance members used to fight the Nazis during World War II, and the <a href="https://www.institut-lumiere.org/en/lumiere-museum" target="_blank">Lumi&egrave;re Museum</a> is dedicated to the Lumi&egrave;re brothers&#39; pivotal contribution to film. Nearby, Les Halles food market is a food festival &mdash; crammed with butchers, fishmongers, pastry specialists, cheese shops, and colorful produce stands, with food stands and mini restaurants mixed in.</p>

<p>Dining is one of the premier attractions in Lyon, which is regarded by many as France&#39;s foodie mecca &mdash; and, compared to Paris, the value is good. Here, great chefs are more famous than professional soccer players. Lyon&#39;s characteristic <em>bouchons </em>are small bistros that evolved from the time when Mama would feed the silk workers after a long day. The lively pedestrian streets of Vieux Lyon and Rue Merci&egrave;re on the Presqu&#39;&icirc;le are <em>bouchon </em>bazaars, worth strolling even if you dine elsewhere. Though food quality may be better away from these popular restaurant rows, you can&#39;t beat the atmosphere.</p>

<p>After dinner, I like to go for a stroll to savor the city&#39;s famous illuminations. While Paris may call itself the &quot;City of Light,&quot; Lyon is a leader in urban lighting design and hosts conventions on the topic. Each night, more than 200 buildings, sites, and public spaces are gloriously floodlit.</p>

<p>When I travel outside of Paris, I&#39;m struck by all the wonders there are to enjoy in <a href="/europe/france">France</a>. Lyon provides an elegant French urban scene &mdash; all with no hint of crass tourism.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/025/264/medium/a20db49bd1d7959cec6a5edf9c4aa241/france-lyon-dining-bouchon-021419-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Try some traditional cuisine in one of Lyon's 'bouchons' — simple, cozy bistros filled with character.  (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/025/265/medium/859dd4934f447203ec115305062cbf9d/france-lyon-notre-dame-basilica-021419-ss.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Perched atop Lyon's Fourvière Hill, Notre-Dame Basilica has an interior covered with beautifully elaborate mosaics. (photo: Steve Smith)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1794</guid>
      <title>Soaking It Up in Europe’s Best Spas</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/best-spas-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-02-26</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>With my intense travel schedule, I savor detours where I put away the schedule and notes and simply enjoy the moment. And for me, there&#39;s no better detour in Europe than visiting a public bath or spa for a relaxing, good soak.</p>

<p>Some Americans are prudish when it comes to enjoying public baths in Europe &mdash; especially when the dress code is just a towel. I understand the hesitation; my first time was awkward too. I was with friends &mdash; a young, good-looking German couple. As they got naked in the changing area, I felt like the Road Runner just beyond the cliff&#39;s edge. Then I eased up and got naked. It wasn&#39;t sexy &mdash; simply open and free.</p>

<p>One of my favorite bath experiences is in the German town of Baden-Baden. It&#39;s said that the Roman Emperor Caracalla may have soaked away his rheumatism here. Today the town has two very different baths. The <a href="https://www.carasana.de/en/friedrichsbad/home/" target="_blank">Roman-Irish Bath </a>(Friedrichsbad) is traditional, stately, indoors, contemplative, and relaxing &mdash; it&#39;s just you, the past, and your body. The <a href="https://www.carasana.de/en/caracallaspa/" target="_blank">Baths of Caracalla</a> (Caracalla Therme), with both indoor and outdoor areas, are more perky, modern, and social.</p>

<p>I prefer the Friedrichsbad &mdash; a steamy world of peaceful pools, exquisitely tiled sauna rooms, and complete nudity &mdash; where, for the cost of a good dinner, you get the works. Multilingual signs lead you from room to room. Highlights include the soap-and-brush massage (rough, slippery, and finished with a good Teutonic spank); the central pool, where women and men glide like swans under a divine dome; and after all that hot water, the cold plunge (don&#39;t wimp out; it&#39;s invigorating). Afterward, you lay in a silent yellow room, swaddled in warm towels. After the Friedrichsbad, you&#39;ll feel, as they say, five years younger &mdash; or at least no older.</p>

<p>And in the Bavarian valley town of Schwangau, the <a href="https://en.schwangau.de/sightseeing/royal-crystal-spa-kristall-therme/" target="_blank">Royal Crystal Baths</a> (K&ouml;nigliche Kristall-Therme) offer just what a body needs after a day battling crowds at <a href="https://www.neuschwanstein.de/englisch/tourist/index.htm" target="_blank">Neuschwanstein Castle</a>. As you soak, enjoy the poolside view that&#39;s as grand as King Ludwig&#39;s &mdash; or even better, considering it includes his inspiring castle. In spa-loving <a href="/europe/germany">Germany</a>, you don&#39;t have to make a special trip to find a public bath; many towns have one.</p>

<p>Like Germans, Hungarians enjoy a good bath. Hungary has more than a thousand hot springs, and Budapest alone has about two dozen mineral baths. Of these, the most accessible and fun is the <a href="https://www.szechenyibath.hu" target="_blank">Sz&eacute;chenyi Baths</a>. Located in the middle of City Park, Sz&eacute;chenyi has indoor pools and a stunning outdoor complex, including a fun pool with jets, bubbles, and circular rapids. You&#39;ll see locals of all shapes and sizes squeezed into tiny swimsuits, babushkas floating blissfully in the warm water, and the Speedo-clad old boys&#39; club gathered around chessboards.</p>

<p>One of my strangest spa experiences was in the Czech town of Třeboň. Home to a <a href="https://www.laznetrebon.cz" target="_blank">peat spa</a>, it attracts patients from all over the world, who come for weeklong stays to get naked and buried in the black, smelly sludge that&#39;s thought to cure aching joints and spines. Envisioning the elegance of Baden-Baden, I had to give it a whirl.</p>

<p>After climbing into a stainless-steel tub, the attendant pulled a plug. I quickly disappeared under a rising sea of peat broth, my toes poking out of the hot brown and glassy-still sea. After my peat bath, I showered off the sludge and was ushered into the massage room. My attendant laid me face-down for a full-body massage (despite my insistence that I had to leave). I walked out with a mucky massage cream causing my shirt to stick to me, and without a clue what soaking in that peat soup was supposed to accomplish. Still, the experience was worth it, if only to experience the surreal &quot;One Flew Over the Cuckoo&#39;s Nest&quot; atmosphere of Czech medical institutions.</p>

<p>Another memorable spa experience is the Finnish sauna, which has particular appeal during the long, cold winters. Finns say the sauna is a great equalizer &mdash; here, wearing nothing and slapping your back with birch twigs (which supposedly enhances circulation), there are no bosses. Everyone&#39;s equal. Just inside the door is a big cooler stacked with frozen bundles of birch twigs and B.Y.O.B. bottles (if you want a beer, you bring your own). Each time I sweat with strangers in a Finnish sauna, I walk away impressed at the way five million people can maintain a distinct culture here in this far-northern corner of Europe.</p>

<p>Whether in a German spa, a Czech peat bath, or a Finnish sauna, a fun part of travel can be getting naked with strangers. Let go of your inhibitions. You&#39;ll likely enjoy a fun time and warm avalanche of acceptance &mdash; and have a great story to tell when you&#39;re home.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/021/444/medium/c5d74d0d17c5693589ef5376cf2c77ee/germany-baden-baden-caracalla-therme-020917-sh.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The Baths of Caracalla in Baden-Baden are an indoor/outdoor wonderland of steamy pools, waterfalls, hot springs, cold pools, and saunas. (photo: Sandra Hundacker)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/021/447/medium/7e2367273ffa05f091417f18ee8b07fc/hungary-budapest-szechenyi-baths-020917-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>At Budapest's Széchenyi Baths, intellectuals and elder statesmen stand in chest-high water around chessboards and ponder their next moves. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1871</guid>
      <title>Romania’s Countryside: A Land that Time Forgot</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/romania-countryside</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-02-19</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Romania is full of surprises and wonderful people. And as you leave the capital of Bucharest, it gets even better. In the Romanian countryside, the nation&#39;s unique history and traditional culture live on &mdash; vividly.</p>

<p>A hard-fought past is evident in the fortress-like churches scattered through the central region of Transylvania. In medieval times, big towns were well protected, but smaller villages were vulnerable to invaders. So industrious German settlers, imported by the local overlords to tame the wild frontier, fortified their churches.</p>

<p>Like medieval fortresses, these Saxon churches have beefy bastions, stout lookout towers, and narrow slits for raining arrows on enemies. Entire communities could take refuge inside &mdash; within wraparound defensive galleries.</p>

<p>Today most of Romania&#39;s ethnic Germans are gone, having emigrated in the late 19th century or fled to Germany after World War II. But their legacy has hardly disappeared. Stepping inside these churches feels like stepping into medieval Germany. Decoration is humble &mdash; pews are but simple benches &mdash; and Bible quotes are in German.</p>

<p>The whitewashed and ramshackle church of <a href="http://www.viscri-info.ro/viscri-what-to-see.html" target="_blank">Viscri</a>, hidden deep in the Transylvanian hills, is one of the oldest (c. 1100). Stepping inside, one of the first things you notice is that most of the pews don&#39;t have backs. That&#39;s to accommodate the starched dresses and long headdresses of traditional village women, who wanted to avoid creases in their best clothing. (The pews with backs were for the families of those who were from elsewhere &mdash; usually the minister and the teacher.)</p>

<p>Farther north, Romania&#39;s Maramureș region is Europe&#39;s most traditional corner. While it takes some effort to reach, Maramureș is well worth the effort for those who want to see a real, living open-air folk museum. It&#39;s a rolling, pastoral landscape speckled with haystacks.</p>

<p>Thanks to its rugged terrain and its great distance from Bucharest, Maramureș avoided communist farm collectivization &mdash; so people still tend their small family plots by hand. Horse carts seem to outnumber cows. Men in overalls and distinctive straw hats pile hay onto their wooden wagons. Women wear big, puffy skirts just above the knee, babushkas on their heads, and baskets laden with heavy goods on their backs. This region feels like a European version of Amish Country, where centuries-old ways endure. And the traditions on display aren&#39;t put on for the benefit of tourists &mdash; it&#39;s just the region&#39;s true lifestyle.</p>

<p>Wander through any village and peek into family compounds. Each one is marked with a huge, ceremonial wooden gateway &mdash; just big enough for a hay-loaded horse cart to trot through. The gates are carved with a whole iconography of local symbols: starburst (pagan sun worship), wolf teeth (protection), bull horns (masculinity), leaves (nature), and &mdash; most importantly &mdash; the &quot;rope of life&quot; motif, a helix-like design suggesting the continuity of life from generation to generation. Inside each courtyard, you&#39;ll usually see &mdash; in addition to the main house &mdash; a humble barn with a paddock, a garden patch, and an old-fashioned, hand-pulled well.</p>

<p>It&#39;s surprisingly common for locals to invite passing visitors inside. Many Maramureș residents are eager to show curious outsiders their humble homes. In Romania, meeting people often comes with a welcoming glass of the fruity, 100-proof Romanian moonshine called <em>palincă.</em> It&#39;s strong stuff &mdash; kind of like rubbing alcohol with a touch of plum.</p>

<p>One of the most memorable sights in this part of Romania is the Merry (as in &quot;joyful&quot;) Cemetery. I&#39;ve enjoyed a variety of graveyards throughout Europe, and I can safely say that the one in Maramureș is one of a kind. In 1935, a local woodcarver &mdash; inspired by a long-forgotten tradition &mdash; began filling this cemetery with a forest of vivid memorials. Each one comes with a whimsical poem and a painting of the departed doing something he or she loved.</p>

<p>Although the cemetery is dubbed &quot;merry,&quot; many of the memorial poems are downright morose. Tales of young lives cut short by tragic accidents, warriors mowed down in the prime of life, and people who simply never found happiness are a reminder that death, and life, are often profoundly sorrowful. Even if you can&#39;t read the poems, the images speak volumes: weaver &hellip; loved bikes &hellip; television repairman &hellip; soldier &hellip; hit by a car &hellip; struck by lightning &hellip; nagging mother-in-law.</p>

<p>But each memorial is a poignant celebration of each individual&#39;s life, a chronicle of village history, and an irreverent raspberry in the face of death. And it&#39;s all painted a cheery blue to match the heavens where the souls are headed.</p>

<p>Traveling in the Romanian countryside, you&#39;ll find evocative reminders of the past and time-warp lifestyles, seemingly oblivious to the &quot;normal&quot; modern world that envelops us elsewhere. More than any place I&#39;ve found in Europe, this is a place where, when you slow down and let adventures unfold, they will. In Romania, you&#39;ll find that rather than famous sights, it&#39;s the happy and unpredictable serendipity that leaves you with lifelong memories as souvenirs.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/022/677/medium/365e79755d78bb840887fed78cc8ef6d/romania-maramures-merry-cemetery-081017-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>This irreverent "Merry Cemetery" in the north of Romania is a celebration of life. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/022/676/medium/efd82dd3aaac1632ee74a3856c098102/romania-maramures-hay-bales-081017-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Much of the Romanian countryside is an old-fashioned world where most farm work is done by hand with simple, traditional tools. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2087</guid>
      <title>Andalucía’s Hill Towns: Steeped in the Soul of Spain</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/andalucias-white-hill-towns</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-02-12</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>When my travel dreams drift off to <a href="/europe/spain">Spain</a>, they often include visions of <a href="/europe/spain/andalucia">Andaluc&iacute;a</a>, the southern part of the country that feels more quintessentially Spanish than perhaps anywhere else. With a string of whitewashed hill towns, sunny skies, vibrant festivals, and tempting tapas, Andaluc&iacute;a is the soul of Spain &mdash; almost stereotypically so.</p>

<p>Most tourists hit Andaluc&iacute;a&#39;s three great cities &mdash; <a href="/europe/spain/granada">Granada</a>, <a href="/europe/spain/cordoba">C&oacute;rdoba</a>, and <a href="/europe/spain/sevilla">Sevilla</a> &mdash; or the Costa del Sol. But for something more authentic, I like exploring the region&#39;s interior along the Route of the White Hill Towns (Ruta de los Pueblos Blanchos)<em>.</em> The middle-size towns that dot this undulating route are more accessible and friendlier than the big cities, but still pack a whallop of delightfully pure Spanish culture. Whether crouching in a ravine or perched atop a hill, each town &mdash; painted white to stay cool in scorching summers &mdash; has a personality and a story of its own.</p>

<p>Exploring these hill towns is easiest by car, with only the major towns easily accessible by public transportation: Arcos de la Frontera (by bus) and Ronda (by train).</p>

<p>My favorite is Arcos de la Frontera, a photographer&#39;s feast. Arcos smothers its hilltop, tumbling down its back like the train of a wedding dress. The fairy-tale old center is a labyrinthine wonderland, where you can viewpoint-hop all the way through town and feel the wind funnel through the narrow streets as cars inch around tight corners. Around town, I like to peek discreetly into private patios. These wonderful, cool-tiled courtyards, filled with plants, pools, and happy family activities, are typical of the whole region.</p>

<p>Arcos&#39; main church &mdash; and the town&#39;s name (<em>de la frontera</em> means &quot;on the frontier&quot;) &mdash; are reminders of the Reconquista, the centuries-long fight to take Spain back from the Muslim Moors. After Christian forces retook Arcos, its mosque was demolished, and a church was built on its ruins. Today, these hill towns &mdash; no longer strategic &mdash; are just passing time peacefully.</p>

<p>From Arcos, a short drive takes you to Ronda: With nearly 35,000 people, it&#39;s the most substantial and entertaining home base on the route.</p>

<p>Ronda&#39;s main attractions are its gorge-spanning bridges, an intriguing old town, and one of the oldest bullrings in Spain (built in 1785). The arena&#39;s columns corral the action, creating a kind of Neoclassical theater. But the real joy lies in exploring Ronda&#39;s back streets and taking in its beautiful balconies, wispy gardens, and panoramic views. Walking the streets, you feel a strong local pride and a community where everyone seems to know everyone.</p>

<p>While crowded with day-tripping tourists from the nearby Costa del Sol, late in the day locals reclaim their streets and squares, and a thriving tapas scene takes over.</p>

<p>Ronda&#39;s breathtaking perch above a deep gorge, while visually dramatic today, was practical and vital when it was built. For the Moors, it provided a tough bastion, one of the last to be conquered by the Spaniards in 1485. The ravine divides Ronda into its old Moorish town and the relatively modern new town, which was built after the reconquest. The two towns were connected by a bridge in the late 1700s.</p>

<p>The dramatic road linking Arcos and Ronda cuts through the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, famed throughout Spain for its lush and rugged mountain scenery. Within the park lie the towns of Zahara de la Sierra and Grazalema. While Grazalema is the better overnight stop of the two, Zahara is a delight for those who want to hear only the sounds of the wind, birds, and elderly footsteps on ancient cobbles.</p>

<p>Tiny Zahara, in a tingly setting under a Moorish castle, has a spectacular view over a turquoise reservoir. The town had long been a strategic stronghold for the Moors, and Spanish Reconquista forces considered it the gateway to Granada. Today the castle is little more than an evocative ruin with a commanding view.</p>

<p>Grazalema is another postcard-pretty town, offering a royal balcony for a memorable picnic, a square where you can watch old-timers playing cards, and plenty of quiet, whitewashed streets to explore. Shops sell the town&#39;s beautiful handmade wool blankets and good-quality leather items from nearby Ubrique. While the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park is known as the rainiest place in Spain, the clouds seem to wring themselves out before they reach the town &mdash; I&#39;ve only ever had blue skies.</p>

<p>In any of these towns, evening is prime time. The promenade begins as everyone gravitates to the central square. The spotless streets are polished nightly by the feet of families licking ice cream. The whole town strolls &mdash; it&#39;s like &quot;cruising&quot; without cars. Buy an ice cream, join the parade, and soak up the essence of Spanish life.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/727/medium/ffc244105eec4ab197fc27ce1b337efd/spain-ronda-bullfighting-ring-110118-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Ronda is the birthplace of modern bullfighting and home to a venerable bullring that dates to 1785. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/728/medium/a5ded15d6a7d27a694d2aff761307a35/spain-zahara-overview-town-110118-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Tiny Zahara is a characteristically whitewashed Andalusian town with an evocative Moorish castle. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/033/085/medium/a6bb8d6ae3ededda8c73c7d794e25f55/article-spain-arcos-street-cafe.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>A cobbled street in Arcos de la Frontera serves as an alfresco dining spot. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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    <item>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">1928</guid>
      <title>Sweden’s Glass Country Sparkles</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/rural-sweden-glass-castles-and-minnesotans</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-02-05</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>You can blame my Norwegian heritage, but I&#39;m not so hot on the Swedish countryside. Even so, you can&#39;t say you&#39;ve seen <a href="/europe/sweden">Sweden</a> if you&#39;ve only been to <a href="/europe/sweden/stockholm">Stockholm</a>. Rural Sweden &mdash; especially the province of Sm&aring;land &mdash; is a worthy addition to any Scandinavian itinerary.</p>

<p>Covering the entire southeast coast and running deep into the interior, Sm&aring;land&#39;s most appealing corner is bookended by the smallish towns of <a href="/europe/sweden/kalmar">Kalmar</a> and V&auml;xj&ouml; (locals say VEK-hwuh; Stockholmers pronounce it VEK-shuh). In between lies Sweden&#39;s famous &quot;Glasriket,&quot; Glass Country, sparkling with glassblowing studios.</p>

<p>It&#39;s no surprise that glassmaking caught on here. The necessary resources are abundant: The region is densely forested (endless wood to fire the ovens) and blanketed with lakes (ample sand to melt into glass). Glassblowers have been at work in Sm&aring;land since at least 1742.</p>

<p>Glass Country&#39;s first boom came during the difficult 19th century &mdash; when a sixth of Sweden&#39;s population emigrated to America as the country&#39;s iron mills were closing. The Sm&aring;land laborers who stayed behind were highly skilled at working with materials at high temperatures. Glassmaking became their salvation, and by the early 1900s, this region had more than 100 workshops creating everyday glasses, vases, bowls, and bottles. One local who left for America later helped design the iconic Coca-Cola bottle.</p>

<p>There are fewer glassworks now &mdash; cheaper imported glass has taken its toll. Today&#39;s Glass Country artisans have refocused their efforts, emphasizing high-quality, high-end art pieces and welcoming guests to tour (and shop) their workshops.</p>

<p>There&#39;s something deeply satisfying about a visit to a <em>glasbruk</em>. Even at the bigger places &mdash; and especially at the smaller ones, you&#39;ll feel genuine artistic energy in the air, as glassblowers persuade glowing globs of molten glass to take shape. Demonstrations are intimate &mdash; you&#39;ll be close enough to feel the heat from the glowing furnaces.</p>

<p>The storied Kosta Boda workshop dominates, with a flagship campus in the village of Kosta that&#39;s complete with plush hotel, art glass gallery, and a discount seconds shop. But there are many friendly <a href="https://glasriket.se/" target="_blank">independent producers</a> scattered throughout the woods, where you&#39;ll be invited into a simple barn-like studio to watch glassblowers at work &mdash; and nearly all demonstrations are free).</p>

<p>Glass Country also sustains the only artisan papermaking workshop in Scandinavia. Tucked next to a giant modern paper plant, the tiny 300-year-old <a href="https://lessebopapper.se/" target="_blank">Lessebo mill</a>, offering daily tours, follows each hands-on step for making fine paper: soaking cotton and linen fibers until they become pulp, packing the fiber into a frame, then pressing, drying, glazing, and hand-tearing the paper into the perfect size and shape. Swedes covet this traditional paper for special-occasion invitations and announcements.</p>

<p>If art&#39;s not your thing, check out local critters at the <a href="https://gronasen.se/en/" target="_blank">Moose and Farm Animal Park</a>. At this offbeat attraction (just outside the village of Kosta), you&#39;ll walk through the moose-happy gift shop before taking a mile-long stroll around the perimeter of a pen holding live moose. Life-size dioramas with stuffed moose (including one plastered to the hood of a car) round out the attraction. You can even buy moose sausage to grill on-site.</p>

<p>Because the 70-mile stretch of the Glass Country between V&auml;xj&ouml; and Kalmar is relatively undeveloped, most visitors tour the glassworks by day, then sprint to the nearby coastal town of Kalmar for dinner and a bed. History students may remember Kalmar as the place where Norway, Sweden, and Denmark signed a 1397 treaty that united their countries into one huge kingdom. That union lasted about a hundred years before dissolving in the 16th century&hellip;and since then, even the European Union hasn&#39;t been able put them back together again.</p>

<p>Historic Kalmar has an Old World ambience that&#39;s rare in Scandinavia. It&#39;s dominated by a moated <a href="https://kalmarslott.se/en/" target="_blank">castle</a> that makes for a great medieval experience. With stout watchtowers, park-like ramparts, and a creaky, drafty interior, this place was a royal hub for centuries. But when the Swedish border shifted south in the mid-17th century, the castle lost its strategic importance. No matter &mdash; it&#39;s now the biggest attraction in Kalmar, and well worth a visit.</p>

<p>Besides the famous castle, the town offers a cozy, cobblestoned center. For a small city, you&#39;ll find a surprising number of good dining options. The restaurants survive on the town&#39;s short, intense summer season, when vacationing Swedes make the streets lively day and night. If you drop by the caf&eacute;/tea parlor <a href="https://www.kullzenska.se/" target="_blank">Kullz&eacute;nska</a>, tucked into an 18th-century house, you&#39;ll be surrounded by locals enjoying warm berry cobbler and richly brewed coffee &mdash; the classic Swedish <em>fika</em> (coffee break).</p>

<p>If you&#39;re lucky enough to be in Kalmar on a hot summer day, stroll out to its beach &mdash; a festive and happy slice of Swedish life. With snack stands, sand castles, and views of the castle, the beach makes Kalmar an unexpected fun-in-the-sun stop. For people-watchers, it&#39;s a combination of Swedish beauty pageant and tattoo show. For me, it&#39;s the best possible dose of authentic, off-the-beaten-path Sweden.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/023/064/medium/13f4cb016699d4d8c16624f8cf358bd4/sweden-kalmar-castle-110917-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Kalmar's mighty castle — restored in the 19th century after being used as a prison, distillery, and granary — stands guard over its town. (photo:  Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/023/065/medium/5ff88763132c3697fd8f6959a54b593a/sweden-glass-country-workshop-110917-sk.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Sweden's rural Glass Country is filled with arty surprises; at one artisan's workshop, handblown glass baubles drift in a stream. (photo: Suzanne Kotz)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1977</guid>
      <title>Strasbourg: The Bicultural Crossroads of Europe</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/strasbourg-france-bicultural-crossroads-of-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-01-29</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Nestled on the Rhine across the border from Germany, Strasbourg offers your best chance to experience the urban side of France&#39;s <a href="/europe/france/alsace">Alsace</a> region. Each time I walk its people-friendly streets, I&#39;m struck by how forward-thinking and inviting the city feels, with generous space devoted to pedestrians and bikes, sleek trams, and meandering waterways. With delightful big-city energy and a name that means the &quot;city of streets,&quot; <a href="/europe/france/strasbourg">Strasbourg</a> is the ultimate crossroads.</p>

<p>While the city dodged serious damage in both world wars, Strasbourg has a dizzying history. It was hit hard during the Franco-Prussian War, becoming part of <a href="/europe/germany">Germany</a> in 1870. After that, there was a period of harsh Germanization, followed by extreme Frenchification after World War I, a brutal period under Nazi rule during World War II, and then the strong need to purge all that was German after 1945. Now, while probably more definitively French than it&#39;s ever been, the city exudes a bicultural gentleness in its architecture and all-around ambience. Street signs are commonly bilingual, with both French and the Germanic Alsatian dialect.</p>

<p>After World War II, British prime minister Winston Churchill called for a union of European nations, with the goal of winning an enduring peace by weaving the economies of France and Germany together. Given that Strasbourg had changed hands between Germany and France so many times, it seemed logical that it be a capital (along with Brussels) of what would eventually become the European Union. And today, Strasbourg shares the administrative responsibilities of the European Parliament with Brussels and Luxembourg.</p>

<p>Most visitors come to Strasbourg to see its massive <a href="https://www.cathedrale-strasbourg.fr/en" target="_blank">Notre-Dame Cathedral</a> &mdash; and for good reason. On my last visit, I stood in front and craned my neck way back&hellip;and I still couldn&#39;t fit the facade into my camera&#39;s viewfinder. I tried to imagine the impact this unforgettable edifice would have had on medieval pilgrims. The delicate Gothic style of the cathedral (begun in 1176, not finished until 1439) is the work of a succession of about 50 master builders. The cathedral somehow survived the French Revolution, the Franco-Prussian War, World War I, and World War II.</p>

<p>An earlier church burned down in the 12th century, and Strasbourg was so wealthy that it rebuilt <em>tr&egrave;s</em> fancy &mdash; with a lacy, innovative design &mdash; and tall (at 466 feet, its spire was the world&#39;s tallest until the mid-1800s). A matching second tower was planned but was never built, out of fear that it would place too much stress on the foundations. You&#39;ll see the famous spire from all over town.</p>

<p>Inside, enjoy the cathedral&#39;s marvelous stained glass &mdash; 80 percent is original, surviving from the 12th to 15th centuries. The cathedral&#39;s windows traveled a lot during World War II: hidden by the French in southwestern France first; then carted to northern Germany by the Nazis; and finally saved and returned by the Monuments Men (British and American troops dedicated to returning art to its rightful place after 1945). Travelers should note that the cathedral closes daily between 11:15 a.m. and 2 p.m.</p>

<p>Nearby is the wonderful <a href="https://en.musees.strasbourg.eu/historical-museum" target="_blank">Strasbourg Historical Museum</a>, which sweeps through the city&#39;s complex and compelling history. You&#39;ll learn how Strasbourg was once fortified with concentric walls and 80 towers, which were then destroyed by French King Louis XIV in the 1680s. The museum also has an exhibit about Johannes Gutenberg, who worked here from 1434 to 1444, a section about the French Revolution, and a description of how the Prussians rebuilt the city after destroying parts of it in 1870, ushering in its glory days (1880&ndash;1914). The saddest section details life here in the Nazi years, and the happy finale explains Strasbourg&#39;s leadership role in the EU.</p>

<p>For a different slice of history, visit the <a href="https://en.musees.strasbourg.eu/alsatian-museum" target="_blank">Alsatian Museum</a>, located in one of Strasbourg&#39;s oldest houses. Thanks to its many artifacts and printed English explanations, you&#39;ll learn much about Alsatian life and traditions from birth to death. Rooms you&#39;d find in traditional homes are beautifully re-created here (wrapped around a fine old courtyard), and models explain the ins and outs of half-timbered construction.</p>

<p>End your day in Strasbourg&#39;s popular Petite France quarter. It&#39;s here where the river splits into several canals with weirs, a lock, and a swing bridge &mdash; all reminders of a time when trade came by river and watermills powered local industry. The district was slated for redevelopment but was saved by a progressive French minister of culture in the 1970s. Today, these fine buildings are protected and give us a sense of this pre-electricity world.</p>

<p>The history of Strasbourg &mdash; the capital city of the political pawn zone between <a href="/europe/france">France</a> and Germany &mdash; is fascinating to contemplate. With its high-powered and trendy bustle and hybrid culture, it&#39;s one of France&#39;s most intriguing cities.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/023/930/medium/46f96a2881e2e1f7828af5e2872c1180/france-strasbourg-cathedral-041218-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The interior of Strasbourg's cathedral includes an elaborately carved stone pulpit from the 1400s (lower right) and an exquisite gold-leafed organ (upper right). (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/023/929/medium/bc87e1a931606c9c1052767be66cf4ff/france-strasbourg-petite-france-041218-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Strasbourg's half-timbered buildings provide a Germanic backdrop for an Alsatian meal on this riverfront terrace. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1894</guid>
      <title>Visiting Germany’s Lutherland</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/visiting-lutherland-germany</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-01-22</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Martin Luther &mdash; a pious monk and fiery orator who became the &quot;Great Reformer&quot; &mdash; came from a humble, pastoral corner of Germany&#39;s heartland. It&#39;s a land of half-timbered villages, rolling hills, and fanciful castles &mdash; and where Luther&#39;s bold attempts to reform the Catholic Church launched the Protestant Reformation more than 500 years ago. Along with the Renaissance, and as part of the rise of humanism, the Reformation contributed greatly to the birth of our modern world.</p>

<p>On October 31, 1517, Luther challenged Roman Catholic doctrine by posting his 95 Theses (discussion topics) on a church door in Wittenberg. This started a chain of events that would split Western Christian faith, plunge Europe into a century of warfare, cause empires to rise and fall, and inspire new schools of art and thought. A visit to Wittenberg, the epicenter of this cultural earthquake, can be fascinating.</p>

<p>OK, I&#39;ll admit it: I&#39;m a Lutheran. For me, coming to Wittenberg &mdash; in <a href="/europe/germany">Germany</a>&#39;s east, near Leipzig &mdash; is a bit like a Catholic going to Rome. But anyone who appreciates history will find the sights here interesting. And two nearby destinations, Erfurt and Wartburg Castle, are also key spots in &quot;Lutherland,&quot; the cradle of the Protestant Reformation.</p>

<p>Charming Erfurt is a many-steepled medieval town that Luther himself would still recognize. Young Martin enrolled at the university here, and, after a lightning-storm epiphany in 1505, became a monk. Today, visitors can tour the <a href="https://www.augustinerkloster.de/en/" target="_blank">Augustinian Monastery and Church</a>, including the austere cell where Luther spent his formative years, and the church where he struggled with theological demons.</p>

<p>Just west of Erfurt is another important Luther landmark: <a href="https://www.wartburg.de/" target="_blank">Wartburg Castle</a>, perched over the town of Eisenach. When Luther spoke out against Church corruption, he made enemies of the pope and emperor. Luther was declared a heretic &mdash; &quot;outside the protection of the law&quot; &mdash; and could be captured and killed by anyone. While traveling nearby, he was &quot;kidnapped&quot; and dropped out of sight.</p>

<p>Days later, a man named Junker J&ouml;rg (&quot;Squire George&quot;) appeared at Wartburg Castle &mdash; a disguised Martin Luther, who had been taken by agents of his benefactor, Prince Frederick the Wise. Now safely hidden behind Wartburg&#39;s stout walls, Luther spent nearly a year making his next stand against the Vatican, diligently translating the New Testament directly from original Greek sources (rather than Latin) into vernacular German, making it far more accurate and readable than previous German translations. As this coincided with the invention of the printing press, Luther&#39;s text helped shape standard written German &mdash; making Wartburg, in a sense, the birthplace of the modern German language.</p>

<p>If you visit Wartburg Castle, be sure to stop at the museum. A few opulent rooms were lavishly redecorated during a surge of German pride in the late 1880s, and Romantic paintings show how it looked before reconstruction. A highlight here is the humble Luther Room, where Luther hunkered down to translate the New Testament.</p>

<p>Little Wittenberg, Luther&#39;s adopted hometown, has a simple townscape that belies its gigantic role in history. Luther pilgrims naturally flock to the <a href="https://www.schlosskirche-wittenberg.de/index.php/en/" target="_blank">Church of All Saints</a> (a.k.a. Castle Church), with Luther&#39;s modest tombstone inside, and where he posted his 95 Theses. The act wasn&#39;t quite as defiant as it sounds, since the church door served as sort of a community bulletin board &mdash; but the strong arguments Luther made about Church corruption were revolutionary.</p>

<p>Nearby is the <a href="https://www.stadtkirchengemeinde-wittenberg.de/" target="_blank">Town Church of St. Mary</a>, where Luther was married, where his children were baptized, and where he preached over 2,000 times. This is where what many consider to be the first-ever Protestant church service took place, on Christmas Day in 1521.</p>

<p>A few blocks further you&#39;ll find <a href="https://www.luthermuseen.de/en" target="_blank">Luther House</a>, his former home. It&#39;s now an excellent museum displaying original paintings, manuscripts, and other Luther-era items &mdash; including his pulpit, famous portraits of Luther and the other reformers by Lucas Cranach, and Luther&#39;s original German translations.</p>

<p>After he broke with Rome, the 42-year-old Martin Luther married 26-year-old Katherine von Bora, a former nun. It was here that she gave birth to six children (the couple also adopted four orphans). It was a happy marriage. Luther wrote, &quot;Marriage is a better school for the character than any monastery, for it&#39;s here that your sharp corners are rubbed off.&quot;</p>

<p>Luther House&#39;s centerpiece is the &quot;Lutherstube&quot; &mdash; the room with benches, a stove, and the table where Luther engaged in spirited conversations with his colleagues. If you visit, you may notice the names scratched into this room&#39;s ceiling, left behind by visiting VIPs (on the door, protected by glass, is the John Hancock of Russian Czar Peter the Great).</p>

<p>After Luther&#39;s death in 1546, until the dawn of the 20th century, the Reformation helped open the way for fundamental changes in Western society. With a less controlling role of the Church in everyday life, secular forces were free to flourish. Lutherland&#39;s sights are physical reminders of courageous accomplishments of the Reformation &mdash; and the enduring example Martin Luther set for those who dare to speak truth to power.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/022/990/medium/10602eabc00d2a793959ad38c07a4231/germany-erfurt-luther-statue-100517-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>A statue of Martin Luther towers over the main square of Erfurt, Germany, where he became a monk. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/022/991/medium/9536539a14239bc9834912d9faaec2d6/germany-wartburg-castle-luther-room-100517-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The humble room in Wartburg Castle is where Martin Luther spent 10 months translating the New Testament into German. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2224</guid>
      <title>Visiting Europe’s Top University Sights </title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/top-university-sights-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-01-15</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>When touring any city, it&#39;s fun to drop in on the local university. But in Europe, universities can be essential sightseeing, as some are home to great architectural, artistic, and cultural treasures.</p>

<p>In medieval Europe, higher education was the domain of the Church and was limited to ecclesiastical schools. Scholars lived in a community of monastic-type residential &quot;halls,&quot; with lecture rooms and often elaborate chapels in easy reach. University architecture is especially impressive in Great Britain, still deservedly known for its prestigious institutions. While several are worth touring, from a sightseeing point of view, I most enjoy <a href="/europe/england/cambridge">Cambridge</a>, near <a href="/europe/england/london">London</a>. Two of Cambridge&#39;s highlights are the King&#39;s College Chapel and Wren Library.</p>

<p>The 500-year-old <a href="https://www.kings.cam.ac.uk/visit-kings" target="_blank">King&#39;s College Chapel</a> is the best surviving example of English late Gothic architecture. It boasts the largest single span of vaulted roof anywhere &mdash; 2,000 tons of glorious fan vaulting &mdash; and the most complete collection of original 16th-century Renaissance stained glass in existence.</p>

<p>The <a href="https://www.trin.cam.ac.uk/library/wren-library/" target="_blank">Wren Library</a>, at Cambridge&#39;s Trinity College, features the light and airy design of Sir Christopher Wren, the architect most famous for designing St. Paul&#39;s Cathedral in London. Unlike other libraries at Cambridge, this one is on an upper floor, allowing it to be flooded with light. Its 12 display cases contain a rotating collection of items, such as early editions of Shakespeare plays, handwritten works by John Milton, Sir Isaac Newton&#39;s notebook and prism, and A. A. Milne&#39;s original <em>Winnie the Pooh</em>.</p>

<p>Another treasured library is the elegant <a href="https://visit.uc.pt/en/space-list/joanina" target="_blank">King Jo&atilde;o&#39;s Library</a> (Biblioteca Joanina), at the University of Coimbra, in central Portugal. Showcased in this 300-year-old temple of thought are 40,000 books in impressive Baroque splendor. The interior is all wood, including reading tables inlaid with exotic South American woods and bookshelves built with clever hideaway staircases. Even the &quot;marble&quot; triumphal archways that divide the library into rooms are, actually, painted wood. And the library&#39;s painted ceiling is a successful work of trompe l&#39;oeil illusion.</p>

<p>Since the library&#39;s books all date back to 1755 or earlier, a major job here is preservation, and the zealous doorkeeper opens the big front door sparingly to keep out humidity. The library is accessible only during appointed times, and visitors have just 10 minutes to view it before they&#39;re ushered out. At night, resident bats come out to devour book-eating insects, providing a chemical-free way of protecting the collection.</p>

<p>One of Europe&#39;s oldest university sights is the <a href="https://www.visittrinity.ie/book-of-kells-experience/" target="_blank">Book of Kells</a>, tucked away in the library of the venerable Trinity College in <a href="/europe/ireland/dublin">Dublin</a>. This famous illuminated manuscript is a 1,200-year-old version of the four gospels, elaborately inked and meticulously illustrated by faithful monks, who went to great lengths in creating the 680-page book.</p>

<p>To make the vellum pages, they laboriously scraped and dried the skin of an estimated 185 calves. To get the most vivid pigments, they used powders from crushed bugs and precious stones. They wrote in Latin calligraphy and adorned the pages with big, flowery letters, detailed illustrations, and animals crouching between sentences or intertwined with letters &mdash; a jungle of intricate designs, inhabited by tiny creatures both real and fanciful. (As this is one of Dublin&#39;s most popular sights, buy your timed-entry tickets in advance.)</p>

<p>In <a href="/europe/spain/salamanca">Salamanca</a>, home to Spain&#39;s oldest university (established around 1218), the highlight is the grand facade of the school&#39;s entrance. Its intricate stonework is a great example of Spain&#39;s Plateresque style, with its delicate, detail-packed, filigree-like carvings, and themes that make subtle statements about intellectual independence from the medieval Church.</p>

<p>Dominating the square opposite the facade is a statue of Friar Luis de Le&oacute;n, an academic who was jailed and tortured for five years for translating part of the Bible into Castilian Spanish &mdash; which challenged the Church&#39;s control of the word of God. Upon being released, De Le&oacute;n started his first post-imprisonment lecture with, &quot;As we were saying&hellip;&quot; Salamantinos still admire the courageous intellectuals who&#39;ve maintained the independence of academia in the face of questionable political mores.</p>

<p>Founded around the same time as Salamanca&#39;s, the university in Padua, Italy, is one of Europe&#39;s first, greatest, and most progressive. Started by rogue professors and students who wanted to study independent of Catholic constraints, this haven for free thought ushered in intellectuals from all over the continent, including Copernicus, who studied here, and Galileo, who taught here.</p>

<p>Students lead tours of the university, where the highlight is a peek at Europe&#39;s first great <a href="https://www.unipd.it/en/palazzo-bo-and-anatomical-theatre" target="_blank">anatomy theater</a> (from 1595). Because of the Church&#39;s strict ban on autopsies, the university held anatomy classes here on a &quot;don&#39;t ask, don&#39;t tell&quot; basis. More than 300 students would pack this theater to watch professors dissect human cadavers &mdash; mostly bodies of criminals from another town.</p>

<p>Whether it&#39;s ancient autopsy rooms, glimmering Gothic chapels, medieval manuscripts, or gilded Baroque libraries, some of the most impressive artifacts of the West&#39;s intellectual history are best appreciated in the intimate academic environs that fostered them.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/026/206/medium/3ed0251b192215c4111319101c229d77/portugal-coimbra-king-johns-library-072519-az.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>King João's Library, in Coimbra, Portugal, has a spectacular Baroque ceiling. (photo: Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/026/205/medium/f36b9bfb914ac8b4b1255c139441228a/spain-salamanca-university-072519-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The main building at the University of Salamanca in Spain features an ornate 16th-century facade. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1838</guid>
      <title>Car-Free and Carefree on the Greek Island of Hydra</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/cock-crow-on-hydra</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-01-08</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>The island of Hydra &mdash; less than two hours south of <a href="/europe/greece/athens">Athens</a> by ferry &mdash; offers the ideal Greek island experience, and doesn&#39;t require a long journey across the Aegean. But those who come here with an agenda should be warned: This is the kind of place that makes you want to buy a bottle of ouzo and toss your itinerary into the sea.</p>

<p>Hydra has one real town, no real roads, no cars, and not even any bikes. Water taxis whisk travelers from the quaint little harbor to isolated beaches and tavernas. Donkeys are the main way to transport things here. These surefooted beasts of burden, laden with everything from bathtubs to bottled water, climb stepped lanes. Behind each mule-train toils a human pooper-scooper; I imagine picking up after your beast is required. On <a href="/europe/greece/hydra">Hydra</a>, a traffic jam is three donkeys and a fisherman.</p>

<p>Hydra (pronounced EE-drah) is hardly undiscovered. In 1956, Sophia Loren came here to play a Hydriot sponge diver in the film <em>Boy on a Dolphin,</em> propelling the little island onto the international stage. (A statue honoring the film sits just outside of town along the coastal path.) By the 1960s Hydra had become a favorite retreat for celebrities, well-heeled tourists, and artists and writers, who drew inspiration from the idyllic surroundings.</p>

<p>The late Canadian songwriter Leonard Cohen lived on Hydra for a time &mdash; and was inspired to compose his beloved song &quot;Bird on the Wire&quot; after observing just that here. To honor the expat poet, the town has named the street in front of his house after him. Not that street names mean much &mdash; locals ignore addresses, and few lanes are labeled. Expect to get lost in Hydra&hellip;and enjoy it when you do.</p>

<p>Today visitors only have to count the yachts to figure out that Hydra&#39;s economy is still based on the sea. Tourists wash ashore with the many private and public boats that come and go, but few venture beyond the harborfront. Locals, proud of the extravagant yachts moored for the night, like to tell of movie stars who make regular visits.</p>

<p>Little Hydra &mdash; which has produced military heroes, influential aristocrats, and political leaders &mdash; is packed with history. Rusted old cannons are scattered about town, and black, pitted anchors decorate squares. Hydra also has a few small museums, including a historical museum and a wealthy shipping magnate&#39;s mansion.</p>

<p>But while its history is somewhat interesting, the beauty of Hydra is in relaxing at a caf&eacute; and aimlessly wandering its back lanes. Once, I decided to head uphill from my hotel, and my small detour became a delightful little odyssey. While I had no intention of anything more than a lazy stroll, one inviting lane after another drew me up, up, up to the top of the town. Here, shabby homes enjoyed grand views, tired burros ambled along untethered, and island life trudged on, oblivious to tourism.</p>

<p>Although Hydra&#39;s beaches are nothing to get excited about, there&#39;s no shortage of places to swim. The one swimming spot right in Hydra town has steps that lead down to a series of small concrete platforms with ladders into the sea. And a few decent beaches lie within a pleasant, easy walk of town: <a href="https://www.hydra.com.gr/beaches/mandraki/?lang=en" target="_blank">Mandraki Bay</a>, <a href="https://www.hydra.com.gr/beaches/kaminia/?lang=en" target="_blank">Kaminia</a>, and <a href="https://www.hydra.com.gr/beaches/vlychos/?lang=en" target="_blank">Vlychos</a>. Distant beaches on the southwestern tip of the island (<a href="https://www.hydra.com.gr/beaches/bisti/?lang=en" target="_blank">Bisti</a> and <a href="https://www.hydra.com.gr/beaches/agios-nikolaos/?lang=en" target="_blank">Agios Nikolaos</a>) really get you away from it all, but are best reached by boat.</p>

<p>As sunset nears, I head for the rustic and picturesque village of Kaminia, which hides behind the headland from Hydra, about a 15-minute walk along the coastal path. Kaminia&#39;s pocket-sized harbor shelters the community&#39;s fishing boats, and its <a href="http://www.hydra-kodylenia.gr/" target="_blank">taverna</a>, perched on a bluff above, boasts my favorite, irresistible dinner views on Hydra. Sitting on the porch with a glass of ouzo and some munchies, I watch the sun dip gently into the Saronic Gulf.</p>

<p>At twilight, I walk back to town along the lamplit coastal lane, under a ridge lined with derelict windmills. Back in town, I settle on a ferry cleat the size of a stool, scanning the scene. Big flat-screen TVs flicker from every other yacht &mdash; the high rollers are back on their boats. I observe the pleasant evening routine of strolling and socializing. Dice clatter on backgammon boards, entrepreneurial cats seem busy, children chase soccer balls, and, in a low-profile corner, a tethered goat chews on something inedible. From the other end of town comes the happy music of a christening party. Dancing women fill the building, while their children mimic them in the street. Farther down, two elderly, black-clad women sit like tired dogs on the curb.</p>

<p>Succumbing to the lure of a pastry shop, I order some honey-soaked baklava. I tell the baker I&#39;m American. &quot;Oh,&quot; he says, shaking his head with sadness and pity. &quot;You work too hard.&quot;</p>

<p>I answer, &quot;Right. But not today.&quot;</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/021/875/medium/bd534b21ac5071c033e5ea7fd52f06aa/greece-hydra-harbor-042017-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Travelers linger along Hydra's harbor, where humble boats and luxury yachts bob in the stunningly blue water. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/021/874/medium/3836a139d5beb0877e3724e4ad0af3f1/greece-hydra-donkey-042017-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>As there are no cars on Hydra, visitors who don't pack light may need to hire a donkey. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2001</guid>
      <title>Tidy and Tiny: Top Towns of Coastal Ireland</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/top-coastal-towns-ireland</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2026-01-01</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>When someone asks me about visiting <a href="/europe/ireland">Ireland</a>, I tell them not to miss the southwest coast. This is the place to experience the wonders of the Gaelic language and old Irish civilization, as well as the country&#39;s contemporary charms. It&#39;s the most mystical, Celtic, spiritual, and rugged region of Ireland &mdash; and the towns along the way are just plain cute. There&#39;s even a competition for the best-kept town.</p>

<p>Every year, the Irish government holds a Tidy Town contest &mdash; and competition is fierce. Dozens of villages are judged for their beauty, charm, and, yes, tidiness. My own top contenders for the title of tidiest town hug the southwest coast, where each town is more endearing than the last. Beyond their pastel facades and prim potted flowers, <a href="/europe/ireland/kinsale-cobh">Kinsale</a>, Kenmare, and <a href="/europe/ireland/dingle">Dingle</a> offer rich history, natural beauty, and warm Irish hospitality.</p>

<p>About a half hour south of Cork, Kinsale is a pint-sized Tidy Town winner, with 5,000 people, 25 pubs, and a super-sized history. In its day, this town was home to one of the most strategic forts in the British Empire. It had Ireland&#39;s best natural harbor and offered a gateway to both <a href="/europe/spain">Spain</a> and <a href="/europe/france">France</a> &mdash; providing a potential base for either of these two powers to cut off English shipping. In what became 17th-century Britain&#39;s version of the Cuban Missile Crisis, the Spanish nearly took over Kinsale, almost gaining naval advantage over England. But England won and eventually built two huge, star-shaped fortresses to ensure control of Kinsale&#39;s narrow waterway.</p>

<p>The town&#39;s long and skinny old center is part modern marina (attracting wealthy yachters) and part pedestrian-friendly medieval town (winning the affection of scalawags like me). On my last visit, my local guide showed me a clever &quot;Tumbler Cart&quot; parked in the center of town. In the 18th century, this service vehicle made the rounds picking up the townsfolk&#39;s sewage, then dumping it in nearby fields. Today, it&#39;s just a delightful ornamental decoration filled with flowers &mdash; one of Kinsale&#39;s many quirky surprises.</p>

<p>Northwest of Kinsale is Kenmare, another Tidy Town winner that hooks visitors right away with rows of vividly painted shop fronts and a go-for-a-stroll atmosphere. It keeps those visitors around with traditional fairs and markets, an ancient stone circle, opportunities for horseback riding and golfing, and the <a href="https://kenmarelace.ie/" target="_blank">Kenmare Lace and Design Centre</a>, which highlights the trade that put Kenmare on the map. (The town&#39;s knack for making exceptionally delicate lace helped it survive the devastating Irish famine of the mid-1800s.)</p>

<p>Quaint Kenmare is the perfect base for tackling the dramatic <a href="/europe/ireland/ring-of-kerry">Ring of Kerry</a>, the road that loops around the deservedly famous western peninsula. Along the way, treat yourself to a stop at the <a href="https://www.kissanesheepfarm.com/" target="_blank">Kissane Sheep Farm</a> to enjoy an up-close look at sheep farming and the expertise of Ireland&#39;s competent sheepdogs. Meeting the farmer, his family, and their well-trained dogs is one of the best hours Ireland offers. (While they mostly do demonstrations for tour groups, if you call ahead it&#39;s easy to join one of their scheduled demos.)</p>

<p>In the evening, I like to stir up a little serendipity just wandering the town. The pub scene changes every couple of years, but locals with the gift of gab are always up for a pint and a good time.</p>

<p>Farther north along the coast, colorful little <a href="/europe/ireland/dingle">Dingle</a> &mdash; my favorite town in all of Ireland &mdash; perches on Ireland&#39;s westernmost point. The dramatic scenery of the remote Dingle Peninsula is enough to draw anyone, but the prehistoric wonders that dot this region make it particularly intriguing.</p>

<p>Dingle hasn&#39;t won a Tidy Town award yet, but it&#39;s only a matter of time. Its few streets, lined with ramshackle but gaily painted shops and pubs, run up from a rain-stung harbor always sheltering fishing boats and leisure sailboats.</p>

<p>For an English-speaking traveler, the best &quot;sights&quot; in this town are its people. You may not find the proverbial pot of gold, but you&#39;ll treasure your encounters with the engaging, feisty people who live here. Most transactions come with an ample side-helping of friendly banter. As an Irishman once joked to me, &quot;How can I know what I think until I hear what I say?&quot;</p>

<p>Dingle feels so traditionally Irish because it&#39;s part of the Gaeltacht, a region where the government subsidizes the survival of the Irish language and culture. Despite growing more touristy, Dingle&#39;s traditional charms are resilient. As the older generation slows down and fades away, a new generation of entrepreneurs is giving Dingle fresh vitality.</p>

<p>There&#39;s something delightful about small-town Ireland, where the people&#39;s connection to their heritage and to their town is so vivid. These tidy little hubs offer a healthy dose of Irish culture, and their locations make them the perfect springboards for experiencing the plush beauty of the Emerald Isle. When the next Tidy Town competition rolls around, I&#39;ll be rooting for Kinsale, Kenmare, and Dingle.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/003/medium/c5aede8a12a6cf028fcf4e0935845ce2/ireland-dingle-street-pub-052418-po.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>On the colorful streets of Dingle, you'll hear a steady beat of Irish folk music ringing out through vibrant pubs. (photo: Pat O'Connor)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/002/medium/29389e7762514c88846da0ae79c22006/ireland-kinsale-town-052418-po.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Ireland's legendary green countryside is the backdrop for the coastal town of Kinsale, a winner in the annual "Tidy Towns" contest. (photo: Pat O'Connor)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">181</guid>
      <title>Gibraltar: A Bite of Britain in Spain</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/got-married-in-gibraltar-near-spain</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-12-30</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>When in southern <a href="/europe/spain">Spain</a>, I can&#39;t resist popping into the British colony of Gibraltar. Gibraltar is hardly signposted in Spain, as if Spain wishes the British colony didn&#39;t exist. (Drivers follow highway signs to La L&iacute;nea, the last Spanish town before the border.) But when you see that famous &quot;Rock of Prudential&quot; standing boldly above the sea, you know it&#39;s here to stay.</p>

<p>The 30,000 people living along a 2.5-mile lip of land under the famous and strategic rock are happily English. And quirky Gibraltar is determinedly not Spanish. But while over 90 percent of its citizens chose to stay with Britain in a 2002 referendum, almost 96 percent chose to stay with the European Union during the 2016 Brexit referendum, showing the complicated position the colony faces going forward.</p>

<p>Along with being &quot;not Spanish,&quot; the colony is part English and part&hellip;not. Gibraltarians have the big three-pronged British electrical plugs, their own currency (it&#39;s the pound sterling &mdash; but, like the Scots, they have their own version), and their own Web domain (.gi). Gibraltar&#39;s Anglican Church is proudly &quot;headquarters of the Anglican Church in Europe&quot; (not very centrally located for the business of administering that vast parish).</p>

<p>The people have that typical British correctness &mdash; I got lectured by the woman at the tourist board for not giving them advance notice of my visit. They recently tried to change the name of what for many centuries has been known as the &quot;Moorish Castle&quot; to the &quot;Medieval Castle&quot; (but it <em>is </em>Moorish, so it didn&#39;t stick).</p>

<p>Gibraltar&#39;s economy, once dominated by the military, is now based mostly on tourism. And that includes quickie weddings &mdash; that are nonetheless it&#39;s &quot;legally British.&quot; Sean Connery got married here. And, of course Beatle fans remember from the &quot;Ballad of John and Yoko&quot; that Mr. and Mrs. Lennon, too, &quot;got married in Gibraltar near Spain.&quot;</p>

<p>While the British military presence is now dwarfed by the British sun-seeker presence, the colony is encrusted with military souvenirs &mdash; stout ramparts, war memorials, and 30 miles of defense-related tunnels drilled into its rock. As you drive the military roads that switchback to the summit of the rock, you notice big rusted iron rings spiked into the pavement every 20 yards &mdash; designed to enable soldiers to hoist up the giant cannons that once helped the Brits seal off the Mediterranean.</p>

<p>The town of Gibraltar is pretty humble. Spaniards come for duty-free sugar, tobacco, and booze. For sightseers, the attraction here is the rock itself, with its viewpoint on the summit, gregarious &quot;apes&quot; (actually a gang of about 200 tailless monkeys &mdash; whose presence here supposedly assured the continued British control of the colony), and <a href="https://www.visitgibraltar.gi/see-and-do/military-history/the-great-siege-tunnels-50" target="_blank">siege galleries</a> &mdash; tunnels drilled for military purposes over the centuries. Several hundred yards of tunnel are open to visitors, allowing you to hike across the face of the rock and actually peer out of the cannon holes back at Spain. <!--cable car under renovation as of nov 2025...projected completion 2027--sq 12-30-25--You can ride a <a href="https://www.visitgibraltar.gi/see-and-do/tours-excursions/cable-car-23" target="_blank">cable car</a> to the rock&#39;s summit, or get there on a taxi tour.--> The <a href="https://gibraltarinfo.gi/cable-car/" target="_blank">cable car</a> to the summit is under renovation until 2027, but Gibraltar&#39;s taxi drivers are trained to give a fun circuit around the rock with several stops, grand views, and &mdash; the highlight for many &mdash; some fun with those precocious monkeys. The <!--lift and the -->90-minute taxi tour costs about $60.</p>

<p>Old England seems to permeate the island. As we drove high above the port, my taxi driver pointed down to a tiny breakwater and said, &quot;That&#39;s where they pickled Admiral Nelson after the Battle of Trafalgar.&quot; (Though Nelson won that battle, he didn&#39;t survive it. According to legend, his body was preserved in a barrel of spirits for the trip back to London.)</p>

<p>The Gibraltar business sense is quirky. The hotels are twice as expensive as those across the border in Spain, but not as comfortable. For quite a while now, I&#39;ve been quick to tell travelers that English food no longer deserves its bad reputation. But after several Gibraltar visits I&#39;m now quick to add that the cliche is still accurate in Gibraltar. And the businesses here pad their bottom line by gouging anyone who comes in and spends euros. Businesses are keen to advertise that they accept euros; it&#39;s only later that most tourists realize this &quot;convenience&quot; comes with about a 20 percent loss in the exchange rate.</p>

<p>Nevertheless, tourism is booming. Midday the pedestrianized main street (which locals call &quot;Main Street&quot;) is a virtual human traffic jam. And more planes are landing in the colony than ever before. While that only comes to a handful of planes a day, it&#39;s now more important than ever that when you walk across the military airstrip that marks the border between Spain and this quirky remnant of the British Empire &mdash; you look left, right&hellip;and up.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/034/256/medium/5024bc46eacece77c79409944e039f06/article-spain-gibraltar-rock.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The craggy, famous Rock of Gibraltar overlooks its namesake town below. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2092</guid>
      <title>Christmas in France</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/christmas-france</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-12-18</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p align="left">As it is in so many places, Christmas in France is all about family, friends, and food. While it&#39;s generally a low-key affair marked by gatherings of relatives and treats for children, it also has the culinary high point of the year: Le R&eacute;veillon de No&euml;l (Christmas Eve dinner).</p>

<p>The season officially starts on December 6 with a visit from St. Nicholas &mdash; who arrives with a donkey carrying treat-filled baskets, a tradition still re-enacted in some villages. Over the centuries, the French merged St. Nicholas with Father Christmas to get P&egrave;re No&euml;l. On December 25, P&egrave;re No&euml;l travels in the company of P&egrave;re Fouettard, a wicked butcher who once tried to pickle some children. Nicholas rescued them, and now P&egrave;re Fouettard is doomed to follow around his better-behaved compatriot, helping deliver presents to French children.</p>

<p>French shoppers typically favor small specialty stores for gifts. In <a href="/europe/france/paris">Paris</a>, there are whole shops dedicated to foie gras, a traditional Christmas gift. Chocolate shops and p&acirc;tisseries get even more enticing this season. The streets are dotted with stalls selling all sorts of scrumptious food, including <em>pain d&#39;&eacute;pice,</em> a spiced honey bread.</p>

<p>A week before Christmas, French families display <em>santons</em> &mdash; figurines that represent typical villagers, such as the doctor, the baker, and the mayor &mdash; with their Nativity scenes. A few days before December 25, Christmas trees are decorated with ornaments, candles, lights, and tinsel. On Christmas morning, parents often add little toys, candies, and fruits to surprise and delight their children.</p>

<p>On Christmas Eve, it&#39;s time for the R&eacute;veillon de No&euml;l feast. <em>R&eacute;veillon</em> literally means &quot;awakening.&quot; In a symbolic sense, the R&eacute;veillon is a kind of spiritual bugler&#39;s reveille &mdash; awakening people to the meaning of Jesus&#39; birth.</p>

<p>Like most French dinners, the R&eacute;veillon lasts several hours &mdash; including appetizers, main course, cheese plate, and dessert &mdash; all paired with wine. Each region of France serves special dishes for this feast: raw oysters in Paris, foie gras in Alsace, buckwheat cakes and sour cream in Brittany. The main course is usually roast goose or turkey.</p>

<p>The R&eacute;veillon dinner builds to the dessert, a cake called B&ucirc;che de No&euml;l (Yule Log Cake) that recalls some of France&#39;s earliest Yuletide traditions. Back in the 12th century, the B&ucirc;che de No&euml;l was an actual, very large, freshly cut tree, laid on the hearth. The family poured wine, oil, and salt over the log while offering prayers and singing Christmas songs. Then the log was set ablaze, using a splinter saved from the previous year&#39;s Yule log. By the 19th century, as cast-iron stoves replaced large kitchen fireplaces, the Yule log was downsized to a small log decorated with candles and greenery.</p>

<p>Today, the B&ucirc;che de No&euml;l is a cake, often made of a rolled sponge cake, filled with a silky chocolate or chestnut buttercream, and covered in chocolate-buttercream &quot;bark,&quot; with cocoa-dusted meringue &quot;mushrooms&quot; and almond-paste &quot;holly leaves,&quot; all showered with confectioners&#39; sugar to resemble snow.</p>

<p>Hours after the R&eacute;veillon begins, dozy uncles retire to armchairs while mothers round up eager and exhausted children for the last of the Christmas Eve rituals. In many homes, pajama-clad kids gather around the Christmas tree to sing a song or recite a poem for the family.</p>

<p>Just before bed, children all over <a href="/europe/france">France</a> put their slippers by the fireplace or underneath the tree in hopes that P&egrave;re No&euml;l will fill them with small gifts. In <a href="/europe/france/burgundy">Burgundy</a>, the children tuck an orange and a star-shaped cookie in their slippers to thank P&egrave;re No&euml;l in advance for his generosity. Just before bed, children look out their windows for the &quot;shepherd star&quot; and place small candles on the windowsill to light the night while the sleeping world awaits the Nativity.</p>

<p>On January 6, France celebrates Epiphany &mdash; the day the Three Kings delivered their gifts to Baby Jesus &mdash; by eating Galette des Rois (French King Cake). In the north of France, <em>galettes</em> are round puff-pastry cakes, usually filled with almond frangipane. In Brittany, <em>galettes</em> resemble shortcake, and in the south of France, <em>galettes</em> are brioche decorated with candied fruit and flavored with brandy or orange-flower water. Inside each <em>galette</em> there is one lucky charm, usually a tiny porcelain figurine, ranging from Harry Potter to miniature <em>Mona Lisa</em> paintings. They&#39;re called <em>f&egrave;ves,</em> after the fava beans that were the original trinkets. And every <em>galette</em> is topped by a colorful paper crown. Traditionally, the <em>galette</em> is cut while the youngest child at the table designates who will get each piece, so there&#39;s no cheating. Everyone takes careful bites of the pastry until someone finds the <em>f&egrave;ve</em>. The winner gets the crown as well as the trinket, and becomes king or queen for the day.</p>

<p>After a month of celebrations, the French Christmas season hibernates for another year. Whether or not you make it to France this year, enjoy your friends, food, and family this holiday season.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/897/medium/fbb1d0ab9831a4fe4cd876488193d8ef/france-paris-christmas-bakery-112118-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>In France, galettes are an important part of the Epiphany celebration. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/898/medium/593b23f9b6948fd8ba140ad346cd363c/france-paris-christmas-shop-112118-cl.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Window shopping in France (or "window licking," as the French say) is especially fun during the Christmas season. (photo: Cathy Lu)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2367</guid>
      <title>Falling in Love with the Matterhorn</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/zermatt-switzerland</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-12-11</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I have a confession: I&#39;m in love with the Matterhorn.</p>

<p>There&#39;s just something about this pyramid-shaped peak, the most recognizable mountain on the planet. Just seeing it is one of the great experiences in Switzerland &mdash; and hiking with that iconic summit as a background is even better.</p>

<p>The 14,690-foot Matterhorn towers above <a href="/europe/switzerland/zermatt">Zermatt</a>, a tiny but hugely touristed town of roughly 6,000 people nestled at the dead-end of a long valley in Switzerland&#39;s remote southwest. While it&#39;s barely two hours from Bern and Interlaken by train (or about three hours from Z&uuml;rich or Lausanne), it&#39;s not really on the way to anywhere. Especially considering its inconvenient location, many travelers find it overrated. If you make the trek and are met with only cloudy weather, you may end up with a T-shirt that reads, &quot;I went all the way to Zermatt and didn&#39;t even see the Matterhorn.&quot; (This isn&#39;t rare &mdash; it took me multiple visits before I caught a clear glimpse of it.)</p>

<p>But in sunny weather, riding the high-mountain lifts, poking through lost-in-time farm hamlets, and ambling along on scenic hikes &mdash; all with that famous pointy mountain nodding its white head in the background &mdash; make the trip worthwhile. And Zermatt itself also has pockets of traditional charm, with streets lined with chalet after chalet and overflowing flower boxes.</p>

<p>The town has no gas-engine vehicles &mdash; only electric buses and taxis that slalom between the pedestrians like four-wheeled Vespas. (Drivers must park down in the valley and ride the train into town.) Strolling up the town&#39;s main street, Bahnhofstrasse, is a joy: Even bikes are forbidden on the main drag; the street is reserved for people and, in summer, a twice-daily parade of goats. Sure, the town hosts plenty of fabulously wealthy visitors, but locals like to say that the &quot;traffic-free&quot; nature of the town is a great equalizer. Zermatt strives to be a high-class mountain resort, but for active guests.</p>

<p>Once upon a time, Zermatt was a humble village of farmers, but with the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, a popularity surge in the burgeoning sport of &quot;mountaineering,&quot; and the arrival of trains in 1891, Zermatt found itself on the Grand Tour of Europe. Over time, its residents learned it was easier to milk the tourists than the goats, and mountain tourism became the focus. Aside from the stone quarries that you might notice on the way into town, tourism is Zermatt&#39;s only industry.</p>

<p>This little town is capable of entertaining about two million guests each year, hosting more than a hundred modern chalet-style hotels and a well-organized and groomed infrastructure for summer and winter sports. From town, multiple lifts are there to whisk you up to all sorts of hikes, ski slopes, and incredible views. But really it all comes back to the star of the show: the Matterhorn.</p>

<p>High summer into early fall is the best time to come to Zermatt. Visiting in spring is generally a bad idea, as most trails, lifts, and restaurants are closed then. (On the plus side, this is when Zermatt has no crowds.) Early fall also works, as most lifts and trails remain open until the snow returns. (In winter, skiers take over the town, and prices jump even higher than in summer.) Zermatt has earned its reputation for untrustworthy weather &mdash; the valley can get completely socked in at any time of year. While two good-weather days are enough to experience the highlights, add at least one buffer day to your itinerary as insurance against rain.</p>

<p>The Zermatt region has three high-mountain summit stations linked by lifts and hikes: <a href="https://www.matterhornparadise.ch/en" target="_blank">Matterhorn Glacier Paradise</a> (closest to the Matterhorn), <a href="https://www.gornergrat.ch/en/" target="_blank">Gornergrat</a> (with a historic cogwheel train that goes to 10,000 feet), and <a href="https://www.matterhornparadise.ch/en/Discover/Peaks/Rothorn" target="_blank">Rothorn</a> (farthest up the valley from the Matterhorn). While prices are steep, the community has invested hundreds of millions of dollars in their mountain lifts in recent years. They&#39;re absolutely state-of-the-art, and experiencing them is unforgettable.</p>

<p>Gornergrat is my pick if you can fit in only one high-mountain excursion, simply because it&#39;s a best-of-all-worlds experience. It features sweeping views from the top station and my favorite hike in the region, between the Rotenboden and Riffelberg train stops. Whichever excursion you opt for, pay close attention to the weather &mdash; the lifts aren&#39;t cheap, and none of them is worth the cost if the Matterhorn is shrouded by clouds.</p>

<p>That said, don&#39;t wait for perfectly clear skies to head into the hills &mdash; even in bright, sunny weather, the Matterhorn loves playing peek-a-boo behind the clouds. If it&#39;s at least sunny-ish, get up the mountainside. Like me, you may find love at first sight of the Matterhorn.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/027/326/medium/aa3a78eea512be9fad77beb3c2a629ec/switzerland-matterhorn-lakeview-gs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>A clear view of the spectacular Matterhorn isn't guaranteed, especially if your Zermatt visit is a quick one. (photo: Gretchen Strauch)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/027/327/medium/4ef1ff79075bf4729a1518fd4b8777b6/switzerland-zermatt-farm-hamlet-gs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Hiking trails above Zermatt take you through evocative alpine farm hamlets. (photo: Gretchen Strauch)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1248</guid>
      <title>Pondering Britain’s Stone Circles</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/british-stone-circles</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-12-04</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Grand, centuries-old cathedrals distinguish Great Britain&#39;s cities and towns, providing spiritual nourishment to those who visit. These places of worship seem ancient almost beyond imagination. But long before Gothic cathedrals&hellip;long before recorded history even, Britain&#39;s stone circles were this land&#39;s sacred spots.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/stonehenge/" target="_blank">Stonehenge</a> is the most famous of these &mdash; and has a state-of-the-art visitors center to serve nearly one million annual sightseers (consider booking your timed-entry ticket ahead of your visit). As old as the pyramids, this site amazed medieval Europeans, who figured it was built by a race of giants. Archaeologists think some of these stones came from <a href="/europe/wales/south-wales">South Wales</a> &mdash; 150 miles away &mdash; probably rafted then rolled on logs by Bronze Age people.</p>

<p>Most believe stone circles functioned as celestial calendars, and even after 5,000 years Stonehenge still works as one. As the sun rises on the summer solstice (usually June 21 but in some years one day before/after), the &quot;heel stone&quot; &mdash; the one set apart from the rest &mdash; lines up with the sun and the altar at the circle&#39;s center. With the summer solstice sun appearing in just the right slot, prehistoric locals could tell when to plant and when to party.</p>

<p>Despite the tourist hordes, Stonehenge retains an air of mystery and majesty (partly because smartly designed barriers, which keep visitors from trampling all over it, foster the illusion that it stands alone in a field).</p>

<p>While Stonehenge is viewable only from a distance, Britain is dotted with roughly 800 lesser-known stone circles. A favorite is <a href="https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/wiltshire/avebury" target="_blank">Avebury</a>. Just 19 miles north of Stonehenge, it&#39;s 16 times as big. And Avebury is a megalithic playground, welcoming kids, sheep, and anyone interested in a more hands-on experience. Visitors are free to wander among its 100 stones, ditches, mounds, and curious patterns from the past, as well as stroll in the village of Avebury, which grew up around and even within this fascinating 1,400-foot-wide Neolithic circle.</p>

<p>In the 14th century, in a frenzy of religious paranoia, Avebury villagers buried many of these mysterious pagan stones. Their 18th-century descendants hosted social events in which they broke up the remaining stones. In modern times, the buried stones were dug up and re-erected. On a recent visit, enjoying the half-mile walk along the perimeter path, I tried to make sense of the earthen ditch and bank, grateful for the concrete markers showing where the missing broken-up stones once stood.</p>

<p>In the moorlands of southwest <a href="/europe/england">England</a>, smaller stone circles composed of weathered craggy rocks are even more evocative. (Good local maps mark them.) Windswept and desolate, <a href="https://www.dartmoor.gov.uk/" target="_blank">Dartmoor National Park</a> has more of these than any other chunk in the country. On one visit, I trekked from the hamlet of Gidleigh through a foggy world of scrub brush and scraggy-haired goats on a mission to find a 4,000-year-old circle of stone. Venturing in the pristine vastness of Dartmoor, I sank into the powerful, mystical moorland &mdash; a world of greenery, eerie wind, white rocks, and birds singing but unseen. Climbing over a hill, surrounded by sleeping towers of ragged, moss-fringed granite, I was swallowed up. Hills followed hills followed hills &mdash; green growing gray in the murk.</p>

<p>Then the stones appeared, frozen in a forever game of statue maker. For endless centuries they waited patiently, still and silent, as if for me to come. I sat on a fallen stone, observing blackbirds and wild horses. My imagination ran wild, pondering the people who roamed England so long before written history, feeling the echoes of druids worshipping and then reveling right here.</p>

<p>The <a href="https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/castlerigg-stone-circle/" target="_blank">Castlerigg Stone Circle</a> is a highlight in England&#39;s Cumbrian Lake District. While just off the main road near the town of Keswick, it feels a world away. With each visit I marvel at how the stones line up with the surrounding mountain peaks. Sitting alone (except for the sheep) in the middle of this circle of stones, drenched in lush and pristine Lake District beauty, I imagined dancing druids, and dancing flames, and the fear that winter would snuff out spring forever.</p>

<p>Scotland has its own breed of stone circles. At <a href="https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/clava-cairns/" target="_blank">Clava Cairns</a>, set in a peaceful grove of trees just a few minutes&#39; drive from Inverness, are the remains of three thought-provoking stone igloos, each cleverly constructed with a passageway that the sun illuminates, as if by magic, with each winter solstice.</p>

<p>Nobody knows for sure what these stone circles meant to the people who built them. But their misty, mossy settings provide curious travelers with an intimate and accessible glimpse of the mysterious people who lived in prehistoric Britain.</p>

<p>When in Britain, strive to find your own private circle &mdash; an obscure, weathered bit of 4,000-year-old mounds and ditches with a couple of surviving upright stones. Come just as darkness is chasing out the twilight, and imagine rituals from the dank and misty past. The chill and the wonder will combine to leave you with a lifelong memory.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/015/689/medium/35ef8a3d65830c2794e0f93f36608c26/07-24-14_Avebury_RS.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Visitors to the Avebury circle — which encloses nearly 30 acres — are free to revel among the stones. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/015/690/medium/6f8034e20d5997ee0b714f8e3e33b7ed/07-24-14_Castlerigg_RS.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Sitting on a stone at the Castlerigg circle, in England’s Lake District, inspires contemplation. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1754</guid>
      <title>A Walk Through Ghent</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/ghent-walk</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-11-27</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Once one of Belgium&#39;s medieval powerhouses, <a href="/europe/belgium/ghent">Ghent</a> has hardly been preserved in amber. It&#39;s a living urban center, with its share of big-city scruffiness and the vibrant student population you&#39;d expect to find in the home of one of Belgium&#39;s biggest universities. But at its heart Ghent still looks much like it did circa 1500, when this was one of Europe&#39;s greatest cities: bristling with skyscraping towers, rich with art, and thronged with upscale citizens.</p>

<p>As early as the 1200s, Ghent&#39;s population had grown to around 65,000 &mdash; north of the Alps, only Paris was larger. Two-thirds of its citizens were textile workers, meaning Ghent was arguably Europe&#39;s first industrial city. With its wealth, it became a proud metropolis of the soaring spires visitors still see today.</p>

<p>Ghent is very walkable, and I enjoy strolling through the old town in this extremely Flemish city, where the native language is Dutch (but everyone also speaks English). On a recent visit I started in a square called Korenmarkt (Grain Market), the center of historic Ghent.</p>

<p>Near the square is St. Michael&#39;s Bridge, which provides Ghent&#39;s best 360-degree panorama. The waterway underfoot &mdash; now plied by tourist-laden boats &mdash; was the city&#39;s busy harbor. Lining the embankment are several ornately decorated guild houses &mdash; meeting halls for the town&#39;s boatmen, grain traders, and weighers.</p>

<p>From here, I turned around to head away from the river, past a medieval church, toward the big, wooden roof of the <a href="https://www.dezeen.com/2013/04/19/market-hall-by-robbrecht-en-daem-architecten-and-marie-jose-van-hee-architecten/" target="_blank">market hall</a>. Just a couple decades ago, this space was no more than an ugly parking lot. Now, it&#39;s a public square, partially sheltered by the hall&#39;s modern twin-gabled roof meant to evoke the rooftops of medieval Ghent. While many residents embrace the market, some find its avant-garde style jarring. (It&#39;s been called the &quot;Sheep Shed&quot; and the &quot;Hall of Shame.&quot;)</p>

<p>Next door is the <a href="https://visit.gent.be/en/see-do/ghent-belfry-world-heritage?context=tourist" target="_blank">Belfry</a>. Although most of this tower has stood here since the 14th century, its Neo-Gothic spire was added when Ghent proudly hosted a World&#39;s Fair in 1913. Visitors can ascend the Belfry to share the gargoyles&#39; decent, if not stunning, view over town.</p>

<p>On the other side of the Belfry is St. Bavo&#39;s Square and Ghent&#39;s top sight: <a href="https://visit.gent.be/en/see-do/st-bavos-cathedral-majestic-tower?context=tourist" target="_blank">St. Bavo&#39;s Cathedral</a>. This towering Gothic church houses the pearl of Flemish painting &mdash; the <em>Ghent Altarpiece,</em> also known as the <em>Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.</em> Jan and Hubert van Eyck&#39;s work has been called the most influential painting in European art. It&#39;s considered the first masterpiece done in oil, and the first to portray the stark realism of the everyday world.</p>

<p>Hubert began the painting, but after his death, his better-known younger brother Jan completed his vision in 1432, taking a colossal stride in Northern European art from medieval stiffness to Renaissance humanism.</p>

<p>The work is monumental: 15 feet wide and 11 feet tall, it&#39;s composed of a dozen separate panels depicting hundreds of figures and weighs more than a ton. Its central panel shows pilgrims gathered to honor the Lamb of God (representing Jesus), while other panels depict the Annunciation, Adam and Eve, the Virgin Mary, and John the Baptist. It challenges visitors with its complex symbolism, multitude of rich details, and sheer scale, but it rewards those willing to invest the time to take it all in.</p>

<p>It&#39;s astounding that the <em>Ghent Altarpiece</em> has survived for six centuries. It&#39;s been the victim of a half-dozen art thefts, making it quite possibly the most stolen painting in existence. Even Hitler claimed it as war booty. In 1934, someone broke into St. Bavo&#39;s and stole the <em>Just Judges</em> panel, and, nearly a century later, the panel has yet to turn up. In its place is a top-notch copy, and the theft remains Belgium&#39;s greatest unsolved art mystery.</p>

<p>Leaving the church, I walked north till I hit Hoogpoort, the main street of medieval Ghent, and followed it toward the hulking castle across the canal &mdash; the <a href="https://historischehuizen.stad.gent/en/castle-counts" target="_blank">Castle of the Counts</a>.</p>

<p>Built in 1180, this rough-stone fortress was designed not to protect the people of Ghent, but to intimidate the city&#39;s independence-minded citizens. You get a real feel for the medieval world as you twist through its towers and ramble its ramparts. It has all the parts of a typical castle: courtyard and keep, throne room, chapel, 18-foot-deep dungeon, and high walls. Inside are displays of authentic swords and suits of armor, along with a guillotine that was last used in 1861.</p>

<p>While not &quot;undiscovered&quot; &mdash; Ghent is a popular day-trip destination from nearby <a href="/europe/belgium/brussels">Brussels</a> and <a href="/europe/belgium/bruges">Bruges</a> &mdash; it&#39;s certainly underrated, and merits a deeper dive. Like sampling a flavorful praline in a Belgian chocolate shop, the first enticing taste you get from this short walk just leaves you wanting more. Go ahead, it&#39;s OK &mdash; buy a whole box.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/020/976/medium/49cf4c7d12ecd13a111630722e349102/belgium-ghent-altarpiece-101316-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The Ghent Altarpiece may be the most influential painting in European art history — and perhaps the most stolen masterpiece in existence. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/020/975/medium/addb39e63f460924d3b7f10626f0fabe/belgium-ghent-view-101316-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Ghent was founded at the confluence of two rivers: the Lys and the Scheldt. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2207</guid>
      <title>Tivoli: Still Rome’s Great Escape, 2,000 Years Later</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/tivoli-italy</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-11-20</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>When travel dreams take people to Europe, <a href="/europe/italy">Italy</a> is often their first stop. There&#39;s something seductively charming about this country, its people, and <em>la dolce vita</em>. I always feel at home in Italy, whether struggling onto a crowded bus in <a href="/europe/italy/rome">Rome</a>, navigating the fun chaos of <a href="/europe/italy/naples">Naples</a>, sipping a cocktail in a Venetian bar, or sitting on the banister of Florence&#39;s Ponte Vecchio for a midnight street-music concert.</p>

<p>But I also seek escapes from Italy&#39;s urban intensity. When I&#39;m in Rome, I like to travel about 20 miles east to the hill town of Tivoli, a popular retreat since ancient times. Today it&#39;s famous for two very different villas: Hadrian&#39;s Villa, a Roman emperor&#39;s countryside getaway, and Villa d&#39;Este, the lush and watery 16th-century residence of a Catholic cardinal.</p>

<p>Hadrian (ruled AD 117&ndash;138) had a perfectly good villa in Rome, but he preferred to live outside the capital, and toward the end of his reign, he lived full-time at Tivoli. Just as Louis XIV governed France from Versailles rather than Paris, Hadrian ruled Rome from this villa complex of more than 300 evocative acres.</p>

<p>An architect, lover of Greek culture, and great traveler, Hadrian envisioned the site as a microcosm of the lands he ruled, which at that point stretched from Britain to the Euphrates River. In the spirit of Legoland, Epcot, and Las Vegas, he re-created famous structures from around the known world, producing a kind of diorama of his empire.</p>

<p>By the time Hadrian was finished, he&#39;d erected more than 30 buildings and created extensive gardens. With libraries, temples, baths, theaters, and palaces for himself and his friends and staff, the estate was completely self-contained.</p>

<p>Although most buildings have long since vanished, you can feel Hadrian&#39;s hand in some remaining structures. The emperor surrounded a rectangular water basin &mdash; meant to represent the Nile &mdash; with columns and statues, including copies of the caryatids he had admired at the Acropolis. At one end he built a temple in memory of his close friend (and perhaps lover) Antinous, who had tragically drowned in the Nile.</p>

<p>Regrettably, with the fall of the empire, this &quot;Versailles of Ancient Rome&quot; was first plundered by barbarians and then by Renaissance big shots, who all wanted something classical in their courtyards. They even burned the marble to make lime for cement. While some of the scavenged art ended up across town at the Villa d&#39;Este, much of it was taken far away, to museums throughout Europe.</p>

<p>Much later, in 1550, another patron of the arts, Cardinal Ippolito d&#39;Este, further transformed the Tivoli landscape. Even though he was a man of the cloth, Ippolito, cultured and wealthy, lived like a secular prince. When he lost a closely contested election to be the next pope in 1549, he consoled himself by building his sumptuous villa in Tivoli. He cleared a Benedictine convent from the site and erected a luxurious Renaissance palace, with elaborately frescoed walls and ceilings.</p>

<p>But the main attraction is the spectacular garden (which wasn&#39;t fully installed until after Ippolito&#39;s death). A hallmark of Italian design, it clings to a steep hill cascading with pools, streams, waterfalls, and thundering fountains. Towering cypress, boxwood hedges, Roman statuary, and pleasant paths direct the eye toward stately vistas all around.</p>

<p>Creating such an elaborate water park required the collaboration of an architect (to lay out the garden), a hydraulic engineer (to get water to the site), and a plumber (to make sure the fountains worked). At Tivoli, the hillside site was massively excavated and re-engineered so the water features could be gravity-fed.</p>

<p>Pirro Ligorio, Tivoli&#39;s architect, was conveniently also excavating Hadrian&#39;s Villa at the same time. That site provided much in inspiration &mdash; and raw material &mdash; for the fountains of Villa d&#39;Este. Ligorio basically used Hadrian&#39;s Villa as a quarry to provide statuary and decorative stonework for his vision.</p>

<p>After Ippolito&#39;s death, the estate was passed down in the Este family, but by the 19th century the house was in disrepair and the fountains plugged up. Now in the hands of the Italian state, it&#39;s been completely restored, with all its fabulous water features flowing again.</p>

<p>While Hadrian&#39;s Villa is about haunting ruins and a storied history, Villa d&#39;Este is simply beautiful and relaxing (and is especially appealing when it&#39;s sweltering in Rome). The two sights complement each other well and combine to make a satisfying day trip from Rome. An easy subway/bus combination gets you from the city to Tivoli, where a public bus connects the two villas.</p>

<p>When I&#39;m in Italy, I savor every cappuccino and imagine what this place was like centuries ago. At Tivoli, I can ramble through the rabble and rubble, mentally resurrecting those ancient stones. Escaping the hubbub in Rome, I get chummy with the winds of the past &mdash; and connect with the pleasures of the moment.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/025/881/medium/0b491f3e67393e3db11e7d7ebe8a2f37/italy-tivoli-hadrians-villa-061319-sk.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>At his villa in Tivoli, Emperor Hadrian re-created architectural styles and statuary from across his vast empire. (photo: Suzanne Kotz)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/025/882/medium/0556a0bc0129f7a28cb62acd2ae4990d/italy-tivoli-hadrians-model-061319-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>A model of Hadrian's Villa helps visitors appreciate the vastness of the complex, much of which is now rubble. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">13</guid>
      <title>Carcassonne and Albi: Medieval Might in France’s Hidden Languedoc</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/languedoc-frances-hidden-corner</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-11-13</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Sunny, out-of-the-way Languedoc, in southwest France, is overlooked by many. Stretching from the Mediterranean to the Pyrenees, it shares a balmy climate, winter wind, grapevines, and the sea with the better-known neighboring region of <a href="/europe/france/provence">Provence</a>. But <a href="/europe/france/languedoc-roussillon">Languedoc</a> has its own character &mdash; more &quot;France in the rough&quot; &mdash; and several stops worth your while.</p>

<p>I first came here as a teenager, when I visited Languedoc&#39;s spectacular fortified town, <a href="/europe/france/carcassonne">Carcassonne</a>. Sitting on the ramparts, I wrote in my journal: &quot;Before me lies Carcassonne, the perfect medieval city. Like a fish that everyone thought was extinct, somehow Europe&#39;s greatest Romanesque fortress city has survived the centuries. I was supposed to be gone yesterday, but here I sit imprisoned by choice &mdash; curled in a cranny on top of the wall.&quot;</p>

<p>Anyone can feel like a kid on a rampart in this ultimate walled city, but it&#39;s easier to savor its fairy-tale towers, turrets, and cobblestones if you don&#39;t have to maneuver through the midday mobs. (While the region as a whole is relatively untouristy, Carcassone is packed with visitors in summer.) By 10:00 a.m., salespeople have taken their posts, eagerly poised at the doors of the souvenir shops that line up to form a gauntlet of tacky temptations. But in the early morning, evening, or off-season, a quieter Carcassonne is an evocative playground for any medievalist.</p>

<p>The massive walls enfolding the old town are nearly two miles around, with 52 towers, each topped with a &quot;witch hat&quot; turret. For good measure, an outer rampart was added in the 13th century. While the double walls seem mighty enough, moats strengthened the city&#39;s defenses even more. These weren&#39;t actually filled with water and alligators &mdash; they were a dry, dangerous no-man&#39;s-land designed to expose attackers. The only way to beat a place like Carcassonne was a starve-&#39;em-out siege. (Charlemagne supposedly tried it, but gave up.)</p>

<p>During Carcassonne&#39;s 12th-century golden age, troubadours sang ballads of ideal love, chivalry was in vogue, and a pragmatic spirit of tolerance ruled. The area became a center of the Cathars &mdash; a heretical Christian group. They opposed the un-Christlike materialism of the Church, which put them on a collision course with the pope.</p>

<p>But as <a href="/europe/france">France</a> consolidated its central power, it clamped down on feisty groups like the Cathars, even in this remote corner of the country. The king and the pope joined forces to launch the brutal 13th-century Albigensian Crusades. The Cathars retreated to isolated strongholds in the hills, but in the end were ruthlessly wiped out. Today the ruggedly beautiful land around Carcassonne is dotted with their haunting castle ruins &mdash; the closest are those at <a href="https://www.tourisme-carcassonne.fr/en/leisure-activity/lastours-castles/" target="_blank">Lastours</a> and <a href="https://www.catharcastles.info/minerve.php" target="_blank">Minerve</a> (accessible only by car).</p>

<p>Scrambling around remote ruins and meditating on medieval life always whets my appetite. In Languedoc, I go for stick-to-your-ribs cassoulet. This regional specialty is an old Roman concoction of goose, duck, pork, sausage, and white beans. Be warned: &quot;Going local&quot; here can get you tripe (cow intestines) or <em>foie de veau</em> (calf liver). Whatever you order, wash it down with one of the region&#39;s well-made wines.</p>

<p>In these parts, the Cathars were also called &quot;Albigensians&quot; &mdash; named after the nearby town of Albi. This enjoyable riverside commune of sienna-toned bricks and half-timbered buildings has two world-class sights: a towering cathedral and the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum.</p>

<p>Albi&#39;s big and bold <a href="https://www.albi-tourisme.fr/en/decouvrir-albi/patrimoine-unesco/la-cathedrale-sainte-cecile/" target="_blank">Ste. C&eacute;cile Cathedral</a> is hard to miss &mdash; locals claim it&#39;s the biggest brick cathedral in the world. It looks less like a church and more like a fortress, and indeed it was a central feature of the town&#39;s defensive walls. Built during the height of the Cathar heresy, this place oozes power. The message: Get on board, or get run over.</p>

<p>Next to the church, the <a href="https://www.musee-toulouse-lautrec.com/" target="_blank">Toulouse-Lautrec Museum</a> contains the world&#39;s largest collection of artworks by the famous hometown boy. Born in Albi in 1864, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was crippled from youth. His father, once an engaged parent, lost interest in his deformed son. Henri drifted to the fringes of society, where he gained an affinity for other people who didn&#39;t quite fit in.</p>

<p>He later moved to <a href="/europe/france/paris">Paris</a> and made his mark painting the city&#39;s underclass. His candid portraits &mdash; of winos, prostitutes, and cabaret dancers &mdash; are uniquely colorful and graphic. The advertising posters he painted for Paris&#39;s theaters and dance halls were his bread and butter; today these some of his most recognizable works.</p>

<p>Toulouse-Lautrec died at 36, unmourned and unappreciated by the art establishment. Luckily the mayor of Albi had the good sense to accept his artwork when his heirs offered it to the city.</p>

<p>Languedoc&#39;s hard-fought past and independent spirit are evident everywhere &mdash; in its landmark fortified city, ruined castles, hearty cuisine, and go-it-alone art. Venture to southwest France to discover this region&#39;s distinct culture.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/000/521/medium/1ce295615dfc94caae1ad3f76e16cde4/644_Carcassonne.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Carcassonne's double walls, turrets, and towers are best explored early or late, when the tide of tourists has turned. (photo: Robyn Stencil)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/000/522/medium/8ed686e329381871737259682fa837e0/644_Lastours.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The remains of stone towers, the hideouts of the heretical 13th-century Cathars, cap a remote hilltop at Lastours. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1548</guid>
      <title>Warsaw, Resilient and Reborn</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/warsaw-reborn</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-11-06</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p><a href="/europe/poland/warsaw">Warsaw</a> doesn&#39;t appear at the top of many European travelers&#39; wish lists. But that&#39;s just one reason you may want to visit. With evocative sights, an epic history, and low prices, Warsaw is a diamond in the rough.</p>

<p>Warsaw is both the national capital and the country&#39;s cosmopolitan business hub<em>.</em> Varsovians (as locals are called) are chic and sophisticated &mdash; and Varsovian by choice: According to some studies, as many as 8 out of every 10 Varsovians weren&#39;t born in Warsaw. Today&#39;s Warsaw has gleaming office towers, swarms of international businesspeople, inviting parks and pedestrian zones, and a hipster culture to rival Brooklyn&#39;s or Portland&#39;s. For cobbled medieval charm Polish-style, head to <a href="/europe/poland/krakow">Krak&oacute;w</a> and <a href="/europe/poland/gdansk">Gdańsk</a>. But to look modern-day Poland frankly (but no less enjoyably) in the face, make time for Warsaw.</p>

<p>Warsaw has good reason to be so forward-looking: Its past has been hard. Since becoming Poland&#39;s capital in 1596, it has seen wave after wave of foreign rulers and invasions.</p>

<p>Warsaw&#39;s darkest days came during the Nazi occupation of World War II. First, its Jewish residents were forced into a tiny ghetto. They rose up&hellip;and were slaughtered. Then, its Polish residents rose up&hellip;and were slaughtered. In retaliation, Hitler ordered the block-by-block destruction of the city.</p>

<p>As the smoke cleared and the Nazis retreated, the Soviets marched in and claimed the pile of rubble that had once been Warsaw. It would be another 45 years before the Soviets would leave and the Poles could freely govern their capital and their country. But in this horrific crucible, the enduring spirit of the Polish people was forged.&nbsp;</p>

<p>After the war the Poles almost gave up on re-creating old Warsaw, but ultimately they decided to rebuild, constructing a city of contrasts. Now, painstakingly restored medieval lanes border pedestrian-friendly parks and sleek skyscrapers. As one proud resident told me, &quot;Warsaw is ugly because its history is so beautiful.&quot;</p>

<p>Today&#39;s Warsaw is safer, wealthier, and happier than ever. Visitors encounter stylishly dressed locals, sophisticated shopping boulevards, and thoughtful museums covering <a href="https://www.1944.pl/en" target="_blank">World War II</a>, <a href="https://www.polin.pl/en" target="_blank">Jewish history</a>, hometown composer <a href="https://muzeum.nifc.pl/en//" target="_blank">Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Chopin</a>, and <a href="https://www.mnw.art.pl/en/" target="_blank">Polish art</a>.</p>

<p>The city has two historic districts: the 13th-century Old Town and the 15th-century New Town. Both are nearly complete 20th-century reconstructions, right down to the higgledy-piggledy charm of the colorful buildings.</p>

<p>The countless restaurants in the historic district provide a good introduction to Polish cuisine &mdash; and the national drink, vodka. Many traditional dishes &mdash; herring, cold cuts, pickles, steak tartare &mdash; pair naturally with chilled vodka. And as any local will be quick to show you, Poles don&#39;t sip their vodka &mdash; it&#39;s a bottoms-up drink (&quot;that way it only stings once&quot;).</p>

<p>For me, the pleasure of Warsaw is just connecting with its big-city people, who are as warm and charming as small-town folk. I&#39;ve found that Poles generally love Americans &mdash; they tend to think of us as brothers and sisters from across the Atlantic. In 1989, when the communist government gave Poles a shot at representative government, the &quot;get out the vote&quot; poster showed Gary Cooper from <em>High Noon</em> &mdash; holding not a gun, but a voting card.</p>

<p>Remnants of Warsaw&#39;s earlier magnificence show up in huge, idyllic Łazienki Park. It&#39;s sprinkled with Neoclassical buildings, peacocks, and young Poles in love. Poland&#39;s very last king built the park in the 18th century for his summer residence and as a place for his citizens to relax.</p>

<p>A monument to Chopin, Poland&#39;s great Romantic composer and favorite son, graces the park&#39;s rose garden. Even though Chopin left Warsaw for Paris, his final wish was to have his heart brought back to his native Poland. And so it was, after his death in 1849. It now lies buried in a pillar in Warsaw&#39;s Holy Cross Church (the rest of him is interred at Paris&#39; P&egrave;re Lachaise Cemetery).</p>

<p>Varsovians  still proudly celebrate the music of this hometown hero. On summer Sundays, happy crowds fill Łazienki Park for <a href="https://www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl/en/wydarzenia/koncert-chopinowski" target="_blank">Chopin concerts</a> held in front of his statue; smaller performances are common all across the city. When I was last in town, I attended an intimate salon-style concert at a hotel. The pianist, seated at a baby grand under a lovingly lit portrait of the composer, closed his eyes as if to channel all this heart into his fingers as they flew across the keys. I could sense the entire audience swooning, as I was, in the same moment.</p>

<p>Long before recorded sound was even imaginable, music lovers across Europe gathered to hear the latest and greatest tunes by attending performances just like this one. It felt so appropriate to fall under the spell of Chopin, up close and personal, among resilient, culture-loving Poles right here in the middle of Warsaw, a city that refuses to die.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/017/936/medium/500a5d38ef23d26c1c1b710a1065661c/poland-warsaw-lazienkipark-070215-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Warsaw's magnificent Łazienki Park, filled with Neoclassical palaces, statuary, and water features, is a great place to see Poles at play. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/017/937/medium/7532317ff082cfaa9caaa360c3622a36/poland-warsaw-old-town-square-070215-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Visitors to Warsaw are astonished to learn that the "medieval" buildings ringing the Old Town Square are 20th-century reconstructions. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">52</guid>
      <title>Little, Little Liechtenstein</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/little-little-liechtenstein</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-10-30</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Two centuries ago, there were dozens of independent states in the part of Europe that was German-speaking. Today, there are only four: <a href="/europe/germany">Germany</a>, <a href="/europe/austria">Austria</a>, <a href="/europe/switzerland">Switzerland</a>&hellip;and Liechtenstein.</p>

<p>I like the way tiny countries are defined so clearly by geography. Liechtenstein&#39;s eastern border traces high ridges with Austria at their backs, with the milky baby <a href="/europe/germany/rhine-valley">Rhine River</a> &mdash; still giddy from its tumble out of the Alps &mdash; running south to north on its western border with Switzerland, and the stout and classic Gutenberg Castle guarding entry on the south. The nation is doubly landlocked (you&#39;d have to cross at least two borders to reach the sea), and even lacks an airport.</p>

<p>The place is low on quaint villages &mdash; visitors here find themselves mostly among shiny bank buildings and office parks. Like most other tiny nations of Europe, Liechtenstein survives in part by offering businesses special tax and accounting incentives. For a place with such a small population (40,000), Liechtenstein hosts a lot of businesses.</p>

<p>And that&#39;s how the Prince of Liechtenstein, whose 13th-century castle is perched fairy-tale style above his domain, likes it. The billionaire prince, who looks down on his roughly 4-by-15-mile country, doesn&#39;t open his castle to the public. When I knocked on the door, the guard looked at me like I was nuts. But anyone can enjoy his views. And, for a price, you can enjoy a glass of local wine in his wine cellar.</p>

<p>Prince Hans-Adam II is one of Europe&#39;s wealthiest heads of state, largely thanks to having transformed his family&#39;s local bank into a global financing group (well before he took the throne in 1984). He was in the news in the early 2000s for threatening to actually abandon his principality if his citizens didn&#39;t give him more political power. Liechtensteiners seem pretty easygoing about these things (women didn&#39;t claim the right to vote until 1984) and accepted his demands. Now the Prince of Liechtenstein arguably wields more real authority than any other royal in Europe. (But you can&#39;t do a lot with that power when you&#39;re ruling a country with the population of Yankee Stadium on an off day.)</p>

<p>Liechtenstein is made up of 11 villages. The village of Triesenberg, perched above the valley, gathers around its onion-domed church, which recalls the settlers who arrived here centuries ago from the western part of Switzerland. The town of Vaduz sits on the valley floor. While it has only 6,000 people, it&#39;s the country&#39;s capital. Its pedestrianized main drag is lined with modern art and hotels, and borders a district of slick office buildings. There&#39;s so little of interest to tourists in Liechtenstein that souvenir shops stock as many books and postcards on Switzerland as they do on Liechtenstein.</p>

<p>The pint-sized national museum tells the story of the prince and his tiny country. Their family crest dates to the Middle Ages, when the Liechtenstein family was close friends with the Habsburg family, who ruled the Holy Roman Empire. The House of Liechtenstein purchased this piece of real estate from the Holy Roman Emperor. In 1719, the domain was granted principality status &mdash; answering only to the Emperor. The Liechtenstein princes &mdash; who lived near Vienna &mdash; saw their new country merely as a status symbol, and didn&#39;t even bother to visit for decades. In fact, it wasn&#39;t until the 20th century that the first Liechtenstein prince actually lived in Liechtenstein. (That&#39;s why the art-packed <a href="https://www.palaisliechtenstein.com/en/home.html" target="_blank">Liechtenstein Palace</a> &mdash; the most exciting sight associated with that family &mdash; isn&#39;t in Liechtenstein, but hours away in in <a href="/europe/austria/vienna">Vienna</a>.)</p>

<p>In 1806, during the age of Napoleon, Liechtenstein&#39;s obligations to the Habsburg Emperor disappeared and it was granted true independence. Later, after World War I, tough times forced the principality to enter an economic union with Switzerland. To this day, Swiss francs are the coin of the realm, most public transportation is on Swiss postal buses, and Liechtenstein enjoys a close working relationship with its Swiss neighbors.</p>

<p>A big part of the principality&#39;s modern economy, like Switzerland&#39;s, is about drawing visitors to enjoy its dramatic natural beauty. Ski lifts, busy both in winter and summer, take nature-lovers to the dizzying ridge that serves as the border with Austria. It&#39;s reachable via Liechtenstein&#39;s longest road, which peters out in the tiny mountain resort of Malbun.</p>

<p>All of little, little Liechtenstein lies on or downhill from this west-facing mountainside, so virtually everything here is in shade well into the morning &mdash; and bathed in fading light at the end of the day. On the evening of my most recent visit I crossed the Rhine back into Switzerland, and snooped around to find the perfect vantage point from which to capture the entire country in one wide photo &mdash; and enjoyed the rare experience of watching the sun set over a country I had toured, quite thoroughly, in a single day.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/000/075/medium/4dcc5227b6f4029bd1d54ec326b78757/233Liechtenstein.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>From the top of a ski lift you can hike the ridge that marks the border of Austria and Liechtenstein. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2006</guid>
      <title>Futuristic Oslo</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/futuristic-oslo-norway</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-10-23</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I&#39;m always inspired by Norway&#39;s capital <a href="/europe/norway/oslo">Oslo</a> &mdash; a classic old city that keeps chugging into the future. It&#39;s architecturally fascinating, extremely livable, and mellow. While food &mdash; and just about anything else you might buy &mdash; is expensive, many of Oslo&#39;s joys are free.</p>

<p>Situated at the head of a 60-mile-long fjord, Oslo sprawls out from its historic core. Its streets are a mix of glassy high-rises, and &mdash; especially in its finer residential neighborhoods &mdash; grand facades. The city&#39;s harborfront hums with international shipping and a thriving cruise industry.</p>

<p>Oslo&#39;s grand boulevard, Karl Johans Gate, cuts from the train station through the center of town to the Royal Palace. Oslo made its town center quiet and pedestrian-friendly by sending most traffic through tunnels under the city. The city also levies a traffic-discouraging toll on cars as they enter town, which subsidizes public transport.</p>

<p>South of the train station is Oslo&#39;s splashy <a href="https://operaen.no/en/" target="_blank">Opera House</a>, its white-marble roof famously sloping into the fjord, creating a public plaza that lets you walk on top of the theater. Near the Opera House sprouts a strip of towering office complexes &mdash; nicknamed the &quot;Barcode Project&quot; for the way the buildings&#39; varying heights, widths, and spacing resemble a barcode &mdash; giving Oslo a new modern skyline.</p>

<p>The city&#39;s ambitious urban renewal project kicked off years ago with the harborfront Aker Brygge neighborhood, a thriving restaurant, shopping, and nightclub zone with a people-friendly promenade. Each night it&#39;s a Nordic paseo. Until the mid-1980s, this stretch of harbor was an industrial wasteland.</p>

<p>Nearby is the newer Tjuvholmen development &mdash; a mix of upscale condos, shops, offices, galleries, a modern art museum, and a little beach facing the fjord. Instead of dining in the yacht-club style restaurants here, I prefer to buy provisions from a grocery store a block away from the harborfront, and take advantage of the plentiful benches and picnic tables. It&#39;s a delightful spot to watch seagulls and ferries come and go as the setting sun shines on the old fortress in Oslo&#39;s harbor.</p>

<p>Also along the harbor is Oslo&#39;s striking <a href="https://www.oslo.kommune.no/politikk-og-administrasjon/radhuset/visit-the-oslo-city-hall/" target="_blank">City Hall</a>. In front, a series of statues dating from the 1930s celebrates the nobility of the working class. Entering the grand main hall, I&#39;m reminded that in this highly taxed corner of Europe, city halls, rather than churches, are the dominant buildings. While Norway&#39;s state religion is Lutheran, people here rarely go to church. But this hall &mdash; where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded each December &mdash; feels like a temple to good government, with altar-like murals celebrating family values, good citizenship, and civic administration. The 20,000 square feet of bold and colorful murals show people from all classes and walks of life &mdash; collaborating, willingly paying high taxes, and determined to build a better society together.</p>

<p>From the pier in front of City Hall, a ferry shuttles visitors across the harbor to Bygd&oslash;y, a peninsula with <a href="/watch-read-listen/read/articles/scandinavia-maritime-museums">several museums highlighting the nation&#39;s maritime history</a>. Among Oslo&#39;s other compelling sights are its <a href="https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/en/" target="_blank">National Museum</a>, <a href="https://www.munchmuseet.no/en/" target="_blank">Edvard Munch Museum</a>, <a href="https://www.forsvarshistoriskmuseum.no/norges-hjemmefrontmuseum/en" target="_blank">Norwegian Resistance Museum</a>, and <a href="https://norskfolkemuseum.no/en" target="_blank">Norwegian Folk Museum</a>.</p>

<p>Even with all the slick urban buildings, the feel of Oslo is green &mdash; dotted with parks and lakes, and surrounded by hills and forests. Vast Frogner Park, just west of the city center, is a perfect place to encounter Norwegian families at play. Strolling here, you feel a positive spirit &mdash; both rugged and pragmatic, celebrating life. Within Frogner Park is <a href="https://vigeland.museum.no/en/vigelandpark" target="_blank">Vigeland Park</a>, containing a lifetime of work by Norway&#39;s greatest sculptor, Gustav Vigeland: 600 bronze and granite statues, each unique. Vigeland&#39;s sturdy nude humans capture universal themes of the cycle of life.</p>

<p>In the other direction from town is a forested hill with grand city views. In 2013 it was transformed into <a href="https://www.ekebergparken.com/en" target="_blank">Ekeberg Sculpture Park</a>, a 10-minute tram ride from the city center. The 63-acre park is a mix of forest trails and contemporary art &mdash; 35 statues in all, including some by prominent artists such as Dal&iacute;, Rodin, Renoir, Vigeland, and Damien Hirst. A spot in this park is said to be where the famous Norwegian artist Edvard Munch was first inspired to paint <em>The Scream.</em></p>

<p>North and inland from downtown is the former working-class district of Gr&uuml;nerl&oslash;kka. Today&#39;s creative and bohemian set comes here for its convivial night scene, colorful eateries, and mellow caf&eacute;s. And at the edge of Gr&uuml;nerl&oslash;kka is a neighborhood that reflects Oslo&#39;s changing ethnic complexion: Today one in five of Oslo&#39;s citizens is not ethnically Norwegian. Like much of Europe, the people of Oslo are learning to share their city with a growing immigrant population.</p>

<p>Every time I visit, I&#39;m amazed at some of the dramatic changes going on in Oslo. Sure, it&#39;s expensive (I&#39;ve become comfortable getting my latte in a convenience store&hellip;in a box) &mdash; but once you&#39;ve got your room and food, you can enjoy an all-you-can-see <em>sm&ouml;rg&auml;sbord</em> of slick architecture, art, and Nordic ingenuity&hellip;nearly for free.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/035/937/medium/675cb05eef8447e35281c9d6b6ba07bf/article-norway-oslo-aker-brygge.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Oslo's harbor, dominated by a shipyard until the mid-1980s, is now the upscale Aker Brygge waterfront neighborhood and hangout zone. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/055/medium/4dfc950a6a63b3807e848e19d3bdba55/norway-oslo-bar-code-district-060718-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The "Barcode Project," a sleek and distinctive collection of high-rises built on former industrial land, has reshaped Oslo's skyline. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1826</guid>
      <title>Booking It Through Europe: Top Literary Stops</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/booking-it-through-literary-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-10-16</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Getting close to one of the big icons of Western civilization &mdash; the Acropolis, the palace of <a href="/europe/france/versailles">Versailles</a>, the Colosseum &mdash; can be the spine-tingling high point of a European trip. But don&#39;t paper over Europe&#39;s &quot;smaller&quot; achievements. Many of Europe&#39;s lasting cultural contributions are captured on dusty sheets of vellum or parchment, and paging through these literary treasures can raise a few goosebumps of their own.</p>

<h5>London</h5>

<p>The <a href="https://www.bl.uk/" target="_blank">British Library</a> has managed to cram everything that really matters into a two-room exhibition called &quot;The Treasures.&quot; Early Bibles, a First Folio of Shakespeare&#39;s works, Lewis Carroll&#39;s <em>Alice&#39;s Adventures in Wonderland,</em> the Magna Carta, and some early Jane Austen manuscripts vie for your attention. Surrounded by this bounty, it&#39;s clear that the British Empire built some of its greatest monuments out of paper.</p>

<p>Fans can pay their respects to Britain&#39;s literary masters in the Poets&#39; Corner at <a href="https://www.westminster-abbey.org/" target="_blank">Westminster Abbey</a>. Geoffrey Chaucer was the first literary great to be buried here (in 1400), and those interred nearby include Charles Dickens, Robert Browning, Thomas Hardy, Alfred Tennyson, and Edmund Spenser.</p>

<h5>Prague</h5>

<p>Given their imaginative, sometimes fanciful culture, it&#39;s no surprise that the Czechs have produced some famously clever writers. Prague native Franz Kafka wrote his renowned <em>Metamorphosis </em>(elevator pitch: man wakes up as cockroach) in an Old Town apartment overlooking the Vltava River. That building was destroyed in 1945, but fans today can visit the good <a href="https://kafkamuseum.cz/en/" target="_blank">Franz Kafka Museum</a>.</p>

<p>Ironically, until recently, many Czechs weren&#39;t too familiar with Kafka, a Jew who wrote in German. During World War II, his writings were banned when Germans occupied the city and, after the war, his work was caught up in a wave of anti-German feeling. The ensuing Communist regime had little use for him either. Locals began to take him more seriously after the Velvet Revolution of 1989, when tourists from around the world started showing up wearing Kafka T-shirts.</p>

<h5>Edinburgh</h5>

<p>The lives and literature of Scotland&#39;s holy trinity &mdash; Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson &mdash; are the focus of Edinburgh&#39;s inviting <a href="https://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/writers-museum
" target="_blank">Writers&#39; Museum</a>. Burns was Scotland&#39;s bard, extolling his native land in poetry. Stevenson stirred the Scottish soul with evocative classics like <em>Kidnapped</em> and <em>Treasure Island</em>. Scott &mdash; who wrote the historical novels <em>Ivanhoe</em> and <em>Rob Roy</em> &mdash; revived his countrymen&#39;s pride in Highland culture and the Gaelic language.</p>

<p>With exhibits mingling first editions with personal artifacts (like Scott&#39;s pipe and Burns&#39; writing desk), the museum gives an intimate view of the masters. To enliven all the history, follow up a museum visit with Edinburgh&#39;s popular <a href="https://www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk/" target="_blank">Literary Pub Tour</a>, where, between stops at three or four pubs, actors wittily debate which works of Scottish literature were high art, and which were merely creative recreation fueled by a love of whisky.</p>

<h5>Paris</h5>

<p>The European love affair with books is charmingly demonstrated in the green metal bookstalls that line the Left Bank of the Seine River. Second-hand booksellers, called <em>bouquinistes,</em> have been a Parisian fixture since the mid-1500s, when such shops and stalls lined most of the bridges in Paris. (Business boomed after the Revolution, when entire libraries were &quot;liberated&quot; from rich nobles.)</p>

<p>Another writers&#39; landmark is the <a href="https://shakespeareandcompany.com/" target="_blank">Shakespeare and Company bookstore</a>. Founded in 1919 by free-thinking American Sylvia Beach, the original shop on Rue de l&#39;Odeon was a meeting place for Paris&#39;s expatriate literary elite. Ernest Hemingway regularly borrowed books from the store. When James Joyce struggled to find a publisher for his now-classic <em>Ulysses,</em> Beach published it. While the Nazis shut the shop down in 1941, its postwar incarnation near the banks of the Seine carries on Beach&#39;s tradition by supporting struggling writers.</p>

<h5>Dublin</h5>

<p>Of all the places I&#39;ve traveled in Europe, Ireland excels in literary passion. Around the turn of the 20th century, Dublin produced some of the world&#39;s great writers. Oscar Wilde wowed Britain with his quick wit and clever satires of upper-class Victorian society. William Butler Yeats won a Nobel Prize for his Irish-themed poems and plays. Most inventive of all, perhaps, was James Joyce, who captured literary lightning in a bottle when he profiled Dublin&#39;s seedier side in his stream-of-consciousness <em>Ulysses</em>.</p>

<p>The <a href="https://moli.ie/" target="_blank">Museum of Literature Ireland</a>&nbsp;is especially heavy on Joyce, who attended school in the building that now houses the museum. Its slick exhibit focuses on the state of Irish writing in the early 20th century &mdash; a particularly complex time in Irish history. Its prize piece: the very first issue of the first printing of <em>Ulysses</em> to roll off the press.</p>

<p>The <a href="https://www.dublinpubcrawl.com/" target="_blank">Dublin Literary Pub Crawl</a>, similar to Edinburgh&#39;s, offers a good dose of Irish wit, clever <em>craic</em> (conversation and banter), and beer. But to experience the Irish gift of gab in its highest form, treat yourself to a night out at the <a href="https://www.abbeytheatre.ie/" target="_blank">Abbey Theatre</a>. Founded by Yeats to bring to the stage the &quot;deeper emotions of Ireland,&quot; the theater has been promoting Irish writers and artists for more than a hundred years.</p>

<p>It&#39;s no exaggeration to say that Europe&#39;s literary documents changed the course of history. From pubs to museums to libraries, if you decide to target the literary culture of Europe, the entire continent can be a good read.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/021/695/medium/838f84daae8434dd2b4d58b366a6a635/england-london-british-library-031617-az.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The British Library, with the world's largest catalog, boasts 380 miles of shelving. (photo: Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/021/696/medium/fba7f22feaf9907c1db8ef656fc561a1/france-paris-bookstore-031617-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>The English-language Shakespeare and Company in Paris is a bookworm's dream. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1999</guid>
      <title>Rotterdam: Europe’s Showcase of Bold Modernity</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/rotterdam-netherlands-modern-architecture</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-10-09</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>The famously cute and sweet side of the <a href="/europe/netherlands">Netherlands</a> &mdash; with its canals, windmills, and tulip fields &mdash; is indeed a delight to experience. But to see how big-city modern Dutch life is lived, visit the no-nonsense &quot;second city&quot; of Rotterdam.</p>

<p>Mighty Rotterdam has a gleaming skyline and Europe&#39;s largest port. Locals say that while the money is spent in Amsterdam, it&#39;s made in Rotterdam. They boast that shirts in Rotterdam are sold with the sleeves already rolled up.</p>

<p>Once, Rotterdam was quaint and cozy like <a href="/europe/netherlands/amsterdam">Amsterdam</a> &mdash; but then it was leveled by the Nazis in World War II. Hitler ordered a systematic bombing of the city, and its center was, quite literally, flattened. Following the bombing, a fire raged for three days, consuming what was left. When Hitler threatened to do the same thing to Utrecht, the Dutch government surrendered immediately.</p>

<p>Photos of WWII Rotterdam are startling: A scant few historic buildings are still standing &mdash; barely &mdash; and the outlines of the streets around them are hardly visible. But after the war, rather than rebuild quaint (as most Dutch towns did), Rotterdammers embraced the chance to go in another direction: boldly modern. Ever since, the city has been a stimulating urban showcase of architectural experimentation, with buildings big and small designed by a Who&#39;s Who of contemporary architects. You&#39;ll see wildly creative and futuristic train stations, libraries, market halls, office towers, bridges, subway stations, and apartment complexes that push the envelope toward science fiction.</p>

<p>In the late 1970s, architect Piet Blom turned urban housing on its ear with a striking design: 39 identical yellow cubes, all tilted up on their corners, each meant to house a single family. Taken together, the Cube Houses look like dozens of dice in mid-toss. If Rotterdam has a single icon representing its bold approach to postwar architecture, this is it. To get a look inside one of the cubes, visit the <a href="https://www.kubuswoning.nl/en/" target="_blank">Kijk-Kubus Museum House</a>.</p>

<p>More arresting architecture is south of the city center, near the Erasmus Bridge, which was built in the 1990s to link the north and south banks of the Maas River. The southern bank, then underdeveloped, exploded into a new &quot;downtown&quot; zone of commerce. At the far end stands a lineup of creations &mdash; nicknamed &quot;Manhattan on the Maas&quot; &mdash; by some of the world&#39;s top architects, including Renzo Piano, Rem Koolhaas, and Norman Foster.</p>

<p>Their works tower over Rotterdam&#39;s port, which is the ninth largest in the world. It handles about 30,000 oceangoing vessels each year &mdash; that&#39;s about 80 ships a day &mdash; hauling a total of 450 million tons of cargo. You can appreciate the immensity of it all with a harbor tour, where you can see sprawling Het Park (&quot;the Park,&quot; marked by the Euromast tower), several innovative waterfront housing blocks, and a section of the bustling port, with stacks upon stacks of containers and a forest of busy cranes.</p>

<p>But not everything in this city is postwar mod. One of the few well-preserved bits wasn&#39;t even originally part of Rotterdam &mdash; it was the port for <a href="/europe/netherlands/delft">Delft</a>. Historic Delfshaven is just a short subway ride away from Rotterdam&#39;s city center, but it&#39;s a world away from the 21st century. There&#39;s an idyllic canal pulled straight out of a Vermeer painting, with old boats, a cantilevered drawbridge, and even a classic old windmill still churning away in the distance.</p>

<p>In the heart of the city is Rotterdam&#39;s oldest structure, <a href="https://en.rotterdam.info/locations/the-laurenskerk-rotterdam/" target="_blank">St. Lawrence Church</a> &mdash; completed in 1525 and a rare survivor of the 1940 Nazi bombing campaign. The church&#39;s nondescript exterior belies its vast, pristine interior, which sports a huge organ. If you enter, be sure to look up to appreciate its roof, one that was clearly made by a city of shipbuilders &mdash; it feels like you&#39;re huddled beneath an overturned boat.</p>

<p>Grotekerkplein, the &quot;Great Church Square&quot; in front of St. Lawrence Church, honors Rotterdam native Desiderius Erasmus (1466&ndash;1536) with a 17th-century statue, which also, somehow, survived the bombing. A hugely influential philosopher and great humanist, Erasmus forged the notion of identifying as European &mdash; seeing oneself as a citizen of the world and not tied to a single nationality. In many ways he&#39;s the intellectual forebearer of the European Union. On the pedestal, in Dutch, is an excerpt from one of his most famous remarks: &quot;The entire world is your fatherland.&quot;</p>

<p>The Europe Erasmus foresaw has largely become a reality, even after two horrific continent-spanning wars. Rising out of the ashes, Rotterdam is a success story &mdash; and offers a chance to experience a fresh slice of the Netherlands.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/023/974/medium/2c6682f739676e9dd267b134f2342398/netherlands-rotterdam-cube-houses-051718-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Rotterdam's Cube Houses are emblematic of postwar architecture — 39 tilted yellow cubes, each a single-family home. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/023/975/medium/c8d39ad809cbe739c61ff500d4223974/netherlands-rotterdam-skyline-051718-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Works by some of the world's leading architects line Rotterdam's harbor. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1690</guid>
      <title>Digging Europe’s Wondrous Caves</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/go-underground-to-shine-a-light-on-europes-past</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-10-02</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Europe is rich in history, but its splendid castles, antique churches, and age-old ruins tell only part of the story. To dig even deeper in time &mdash; much deeper &mdash; visit a cave. Some of my favorites, in <a href="/europe/france">France</a> and <a href="/europe/slovenia">Slovenia</a>, showcase 17-foot-long bulls drawn by our ancient forebears and 100-foot-high stalagmites sculpted by nature.</p>

<p>The world&#39;s most famous cave paintings are at Lascaux, in southwest France. From 18,000 to 10,000 BC, long before Stonehenge, before the pyramids, before metalworking, and before farming &mdash; back when mammoths and saber-toothed cats still roamed the earth &mdash; prehistoric people painted deep inside these limestone caverns. These aren&#39;t crude doodles with a charcoal-tipped stick. They&#39;re sophisticated, costly, and time-consuming engineering projects.</p>

<p>Discovered in 1940, the caves were closed to visitors in 1963 to prevent further deterioration of the artwork. But two &quot;copy caves&quot; &mdash; <a href="https://lascaux-ii.fr/en/" target="_blank">Lascaux II</a> and <a href="https://lascaux.fr/en/" target="_blank">Lascaux IV</a>, at the International Center for Cave Art &mdash; replicate the original with exacting accuracy. The prehistoric reindeer, horses, and bulls of the original cave have been painstakingly reproduced by talented artists using the same dyes, tools, and techniques their predecessors did 15,000 years ago. When I first heard a guide call the Lascaux caves the &quot;Sistine Chapel of the prehistoric world&quot; I thought, &quot;Promotional hyperbole.&quot; But once inside, I was swept away by the grandeur. The paintings are astonishing, and the experience is mystifying.</p>

<p>Lascaux IV, designed with the latest technology, is a slightly more exact copy, and its state-of-the-art center gives a thorough and thought-provoking overview of the original cave and its role in prehistory and modern art. In high season, however, it can have a circus-like feel as groups of 35 people are ushered in every six minutes. The older Lascaux II, in the woods a half mile away, offers a more intimate, quiet, and intensive look.</p>

<p>To see actual original prehistoric art, head to the <a href="https://www.sites-les-eyzies.fr/en/" target="_blank">Grotte de Font-de-Gaume</a>. Even if you&#39;re not a connoisseur of Cro-Magnon culture, you&#39;ll dig this cave &mdash; the last one in France with prehistoric multicolored (polychrome) paintings still open to the public.</p>

<p>Font-de-Gaume contains 15,000-year-old paintings of 230 animals, including many red-and-black bison painted in elegant motion. When two animals face each other, one is black, and the other is red. Your guide, with a laser pointer and great reverence, will trace the faded outline of the bison and explain how, 15 millennia ago, cave dwellers used local minerals and the rock&#39;s natural contours to give the paintings dimension. But getting in is tricky &mdash; access is extremely restricted, with only 78 spaces available each day. Book as far ahead as far you can, particularly for high season, as spots fill up months in advance.</p>

<p>In Slovenia, the ancient story found below ground relates to geology, not human culture. About an hour south of <a href="/europe/slovenia/ljubljana">Ljubljana</a>, the country&#39;s Karst region is honeycombed with a vast network of caves and underground rivers. Spelunkers agree that this region has some of the most remarkable caves on the planet, including my favorite, the <a href="https://www.park-skocjanske-jame.si/en" target="_blank">&Scaron;kocjan caves</a>.</p>

<p>At &Scaron;kocjan, visitors begin by seeing a multitude of formations in a series of large caverns. Guides tell the story as, drip by drip, stalactites grow from spaghetti-thin strands to mighty sequoia-like stone pillars. The experience builds and builds as you go into ever-more impressive grottoes, and you think you&#39;ve seen the best. But then you get to the truly colossal final cavern &mdash; the &quot;Murmuring Water Cave&quot; &mdash; with a mighty river crashing through the mist. A thousand evil <em>Wizard of Oz</em> monkeys could comfortably fly in formation through here. Crossing a breathtaking footbridge 150 feet above the torrent gives you faith in Slovenian engineering. Finally, the cave widens, sunlight pours in, and you emerge &mdash; like lost creatures seeking daylight &mdash; into a lush canyon.</p>

<p>The nearby <a href="https://www.postojnska-jama.eu/en/home/" target="_blank">Postojna caves</a> are Slovenia&#39;s single most popular tourist attraction. Postojna lacks &Scaron;kocjan&#39;s spectacular, massive-cavern finale, but the formations at Postojna are slightly more abundant, varied, and colorful, with stalagmites and stalactites as tall as 100 feet.</p>

<p>While some fairly strenuous hiking is required to see &Scaron;kocjan, visiting Postojna is an easy, lightly guided roll-and-stroll through an amazing underground cavern. A little open-air train first slings you deep into the mountain, whizzing past wonderful formations. Then you walk uphill into the &quot;Big Mountain,&quot; where you&#39;re surrounded by a sea of fairy chimneys, before a bridge over a canyon takes you into &quot;Spaghetti Hall,&quot; named for the long, skinny stalactites that seem to be dripping from the ceiling. After passing some huge, white, melting-ice-cream formations, you wind up in the impressively vast cavern called the &quot;Concert Hall.&quot; Here, an aquarium houses the strange, pale-pink, salamander-like &quot;human fish,&quot; a cave-dwelling creature that is celebrated as a sort of national mascot in Slovenia.</p>

<p>After exploring some of the world&#39;s best caves, mull over what you&#39;ve seen &mdash; and return to more modern history &mdash; with a glass of local wine from vineyards near these caves. Raise a glass to red-and-black bison, colossal caverns, and human fish that hide beneath Europe&#39;s modern surface.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/020/088/medium/8cb3b7af27719fa6c8eb169cc7a97308/france-dordogne-lascaux-060216-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Ancient animal paintings make France's Lascaux caves the Sistine Chapel of the prehistoric world. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/032/734/medium/088bdeddcfb04f68e7fcd05b8c94e295/article-slovenia-karst-skocjan-caves.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Slovenia's remarkable Škocjan caves delight tourists and spelunkers alike. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1632</guid>
      <title>Luzern’s Swiss Mix of Delights</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/luzern-swiss-mix-of-urban-delights</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-09-25</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Pretty, pristine, and lakeside, and at the foot of a towering hulk of a mountain, <a href="/europe/switzerland/luzern">Luzern</a> has long been Switzerland&#39;s tourism capital. Since the Romantic era in the 19th century, it&#39;s been a regular stop on the &quot;Grand Tour&quot; of Europe for the likes of Mark Twain and Queen Victoria. And with a charming old town, a gaggle of fine museums, and proximity to Mount Pilatus and its fun alpine activities, there&#39;s still enough in Luzern to earn it a place on any Swiss itinerary.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Luzern offers an enticing, I-could-live-here glimpse of the appealing and uniquely Swiss urban quality of life. Efficient buses glide around town, pedestrian bridges span the crystal-clear river, and an array of cruise boats ply scenic Lake Lucerne.</p>

<p>Simply wandering the city&#39;s clean streets, strolling its bridges, and cruising the lake is enough for a happy day of sightseeing. But Luzern also offers some fine attractions. Art buffs flock to the <a href="https://www.rosengart.ch/en/welcome" target="_blank">Rosengart Collection</a> for its Picasso exhibit, gearheads have a ball at the <a href="https://www.verkehrshaus.ch/en/" target="_blank">Swiss Transport Museum</a>, and rock hounds dig the city&#39;s <a href="https://gletschergarten.ch/en" target="_blank">Glacier Garden</a>.</p>

<p>Luzern began as a fishing village at the spot where the Reuss River tumbles out of Lake Lucerne. By the 13th century, with traffic between northern and southern Europe streaming through the nearby Gotthard Pass, the city became a bustling trading center. All that traffic brought the construction of two covered wooden river bridges that are now Luzern icons.</p>

<p>In the 14th century, the Chapel Bridge (Kapellbr&uuml;cke) was oddly built across the river &mdash; spanning its banks at an angle to connect the town&#39;s fortifications. Under its rafters hang about 100 colorful 17th-century paintings showing contemporary and historic scenes, including landscapes of Luzern as it looked in about 1400, portraits of the city&#39;s two patron saints, and a depiction of a giant from a medieval legend that arose here when locals misidentified newly discovered mammoth bones as human.</p>

<p>The other famous bridge &mdash; Mill Bridge (Spreuerbr&uuml;cke) &mdash; also has fine 17th-century paintings, which show Luzern&#39;s favorite giant again, with the blue-and-white city and cantonal banners under the double eagle of the Holy Roman Empire &mdash; a reminder that the emperor granted free status to the city. The flip side shows Judgment Day, with some going to heaven and others to hell.</p>

<p>Another emblematic sight is the Lion Monument. This free, famous memorial is an essential stop if you&#39;re visiting Luzern &mdash; if only because when you get back home, everyone will ask you, &quot;Did you see the lion?&quot; Open from sunrise to dusk, the huge sculpture (33 feet long by 20 feet tall) is carved right into a cliff face, over a reflecting pool in a peaceful park.</p>

<p>Though it&#39;s often overrun with tour groups, a tranquil moment here is genuinely moving: The mighty lion rests his paws on a shield, with his head cocked to one side, tears streaming down his cheeks. In his side is the broken-off end of a spear, which is slowly killing the noble beast. (The angle of the spear matches the striations of the rock face, subtly suggesting more spears raining down on the lion.) This heartbreaking figure represents the Swiss mercenaries who were killed or executed defending the French king in the French Revolution. The inscription reads, <em>&quot;Helvetiorum fidei ac virtuti&quot;</em> &mdash; &quot;To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss.&quot;</p>

<p>Along with its historic landmarks, Luzern also has distinctive modern architecture. On the waterfront is a huge boxy building with a big, flat overhanging roof &mdash; the <a href="https://www.kkl-luzern.ch/en" target="_blank">Luzern Culture and Conference Center</a>. Lake water is pumped up, into, through, and out of this building; if you wander around its far side, you&#39;ll see open channels that go right through the middle of the structure.</p>

<p>One of the best ways to experience Luzern is by boat. The turquoise waters of Lake Lucerne (or the &quot;Vierwaldst&auml;ttersee&quot; to locals), with a total area of 44 square miles, reflect a different angle of the surrounding scenery &mdash; with its jagged mountaintops and green foothills &mdash; at every turn. Cruise boats cover a variety of routes and destinations (35 stops in all), ranging from a one-hour sampler tour around Luzern&#39;s &quot;harbor&quot; to a full-blown, six-hour exploration to the far end of the lake and back. Some routes are round-trip dinner or sightseeing cruises, but most boats have scheduled stops and are designed for you to get out, explore, and then take the next boat back. Romantics will want to hitch a ride on one of the old-fashioned paddleboat steamers.</p>

<p>From its dramatic scenery and quaint wooden bridges to its modern, urban efficiency, Luzern is one of Switzerland&#39;s gems. Among Switzerland&#39;s engaging cities, Luzern sparkles as perhaps the brightest of all.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/031/721/medium/f075534ae016bd66a251ac385ac97a67/article-switzerland-luzern-chapel-bridge.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Luzern's 14th century Chapel Bridge zigzags its way across the Reuss River. (photo: Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/019/150/medium/90df4a21442f67cf9d12a4987dfb0a04/switzerland-luzern-boat-020416-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Lake Lucerne's tour boats let visitors take in the dramatic Alpine scenery that surrounds Luzern. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">1877</guid>
      <title>Become a Bavarian at Oktoberfest</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/oktoberfest-munich</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-09-18</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Every September, <a href="/europe/germany/munich">Munich</a> hosts the planet&#39;s biggest kegger &mdash; <a href="https://www.oktoberfest.de/en" target="_blank">Oktoberfest</a>. This world-famous party is a sloppy soup of locals and tourists swaying their beer steins and toasting to the scene&#39;s <em>Gem&uuml;tlichkeit</em> (cozy and convivial atmosphere).</p>

<p>Oktoberfest dates back to 1810, when the Bavarian king threw a grand public wedding reception for his son. It was such a hit that they decided to do it again the next year. And the next, and the next. More than 200 years later, it&#39;s become one of Europe&#39;s best-known festivals &mdash; a beer-fueled frenzy of dancing, music, pretzels, and amusement-park rides, with around seven million visitors consuming nearly seven million liters of beer every year.</p>

<p>Despite its name, the party gets underway in mid-September and ends on the first weekend of October. From the mayor&#39;s ceremonial tapping of the first keg at the festival&#39;s opening until the celebration&#39;s final evening, the huge fairground outside Munich&#39;s city center is a slap-happy world of sausages, fancy hats, and maidens with flowers in their hair. For visitors, there&#39;s no better place to see (and join) Germans at play.</p>

<p>Festivities kick off with the Breweries Parade (always held on the festival&#39;s first Sunday), which brings a seemingly endless string of marching bands and troupes dressed in colorful traditional costumes. Leading the parade is the festival queen &mdash; the &quot;M&uuml;nchner Kindl,&quot; a young woman on horseback, wearing the robe of a medieval monk. Massive, elaborately decorated draft horses clop by, pulling wagons filled with gigantic kegs of draft beer. Each of the city&#39;s main breweries enters a beer-themed float to entertain the crowds as they make their way from downtown Munich out to the festival grounds &mdash; a meadow known as the &quot;Wies&#39;n.&quot;</p>

<p>Men sport lederhosen &mdash; leather shorts with suspenders once worn by peasants working the fields &mdash; accessorized with long stockings and a hat with a feather in it. Women wear dirndls &mdash; single-piece dresses that include a skirt and low-cut blouse, covered with a bodice. These traditional Bavarian clothes are not mere party costumes, nor worn ironically. Locals treasure them, and break them out on special occasions.</p>

<p>Once the festival is in full swing, the atmosphere is infectious. Admission is free; it&#39;s pay-as-you-go for food, rides, and beer. Revelers can choose from around 15 main tents and a few smaller ones, all of which operate like pop-up beer halls. Filled with row after row of wooden tables and benches, the main tents are vast &mdash; the largest holds roughly 11,000 people. Some tents offer traditional oompah music, others host rock bands, and some are family friendly, with kids&#39; menus. In all the tents, beer is sloshed from morning till night, and everyone is open and friendly. Between beverages, people stroll the happy central promenade, giant gingerbread cookies in hand, enjoying the loud-and-proud celebration of all things Bavarian.</p>

<p>Munich&#39;s local breweries each have their own tent. The famous ones (such as Augustiner and Hofbr&auml;u) can have long waiting lines and are the most touristy. Last time I attended Oktoberfest, I found myself in the Hacker-Pschorr tent, where a barmaid with two painted German flags flanking her cleavage took my order. When I asked if I could get a half-liter <em>(eine Halbe),</em> she said, &quot;Why don&#39;t you go home and come back when you&#39;re thirsty?&quot; A full-size liter beer (about a quart, <em>eine Mass</em> in German) costs about $17, and most of the barmaids can carry 10 at once. You can order a <em>Helles</em> (light beer), <em>Dunkles</em> (dark beer), <em>Weissbier</em> (&quot;white&quot; wheat-based beer), or ask for a <em>Radler</em> (half lemon soda, half beer).</p>

<p>While it&#39;s filled with plenty of tourists, Oktoberfest is still very much a local scene. Around three-quarters of the attendees are Bavarians. As the day goes on, the vibe in the tents morphs from polite to increasingly rowdy. The festival is most crowded late and on weekends, but weekday afternoons and early evenings are a delight, when it&#39;s easier to find a spot inside a tent, and the grounds are filled with happy kids (Tuesdays are official family days).</p>

<p>Security at the festival is understandably tight. A fence now surrounds the fairgrounds, and no large bags are allowed in. Each tent has its own security, and the police presence is unmistakable. In spite of all this, the party still feels relaxed and fun. And Munich&#39;s downtown also remains manageable during Oktoberfest &mdash; since the bulk of tourists are out at the fairgrounds all day, it&#39;s a good time to sightsee. (Hotel rooms, however, are pricier than normal.)</p>

<p>First-timers might find all the chaos a bit daunting. But Oktoberfest is, by its very nature, open and friendly. Take a seat at any table that can fit an extra rear end, dive into the conversation with a clink of the glass and a hearty shout of <em>&quot;Prost!&quot;</em> &mdash; and become part of the buzzing Bavarian hullabaloo.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/022/647/medium/6f06aa68c9c704550ae1eccb61a7d6dd/germany-munich-oktoberfest-locals-082417-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>With Germany's best beers flowing by the liter at Oktoberfest, Bavarians are happy to toast with friendly foreigners. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/022/646/medium/ef05961cee67d7a7689ee4b67fcf1218/germany-munich-oktoberfest-tent-082417-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Oktoberfest's tents are packed, and together can seat over 100,000 partiers at a time. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">115</guid>
      <title>Mending Bridges in Mostar</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/mostar-bridge</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-09-11</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>The city of Mostar lies at a crossroads of cultures: just inland from the Adriatic coast, in the southern part of <a href="/europe/bosnia-herzegovina">Bosnia-Herzegovina</a>. Mostar &mdash; where Orthodox Serbs, Catholic Croats, and Muslim Bosniaks had lived in seeming harmony before the war, then suffered horribly when its warring neighborhoods turned the city into a killing zone &mdash; has provided me with some of the richest experiences anywhere in Europe. The vibrant humanity and the persistent reminders of the terrible war, now a generation in the past, combine to make Mostar strangely engaging.</p>

<p>Before the war, <a href="/europe/bosnia-herzegovina/mostar">Mostar</a> was famous for its 400-year-old, Turkish-style stone bridge. Its elegant, single-pointed arch was a symbol of Muslim society here, and of the town&#39;s status as the place where East met West in Europe. Then, during the 1990s, Mostar became a poster child of the Bosnian war. First, the Croats and Bosniaks forced out the Serbs. Then they turned their guns on each other &mdash; staring each other down across a front line that ran through the middle of the city. Across the world, people wept when the pummeled Old Bridge &mdash; bombarded by Croat paramilitary artillery shells from the hilltop above &mdash; finally collapsed into the river.</p>

<p>Now the bridge has been rebuilt and Mostar is thriving. It happens to be prom night. The kids are out, and Bosnian hormones are bursting. Being young and sexy is a great equalizer. With a beer, loud music, desirability, twinkling stars &mdash; and no war &mdash; your country&#39;s GDP doesn&#39;t really matter.</p>

<p>And yet, strolling through teeming streets, it&#39;s chilling to think that, not so long ago, these people &mdash; who make me a sandwich, stop for me when I cross the street, show off their paintings, and direct the church choir &mdash; were set on killing each other.</p>

<p>Walking past a small cemetery congested with more than a hundred white-marble Muslim tombstones, I notice the dates. Everyone died in 1993, 1994, or 1995. This was a park before 1993. When the war heated up, snipers were a constant concern &mdash; they&#39;d pick off anyone they saw walking down the street. Bodies were left for weeks along the main boulevard, which had become the deadly front line. Mostar&#39;s cemeteries were too exposed, but this tree-filled park was relatively safe from snipers. People buried their loved ones here&hellip;under cover of darkness.</p>

<p>I meet Alen, a Muslim who emigrated to Florida during the war, and is now back home in Mostar. He explains, &quot;In those years, night was the time when we lived. We didn&#39;t walk...we ran. And we dressed in black. There was no electricity. If the Croat fighters didn&#39;t kill us with their bullets, they killed us with their hateful pop music. It was blasting from the Croat side of town.&quot;</p>

<p>Alen points to a tree growing out of a ruined building and says, &quot;It&#39;s a strange thing in nature: figs can grow with almost no soil&quot; &mdash; seeming to speak as much about the difficult lot of Mostar&#39;s people as its vegetation. When I ask why the ruins still stand, Alen explains, &ldquo;Confusion about who owns what. Surviving companies have no money. The bank of Yugoslavia, which held the mortgages, is now gone. No one will invest until it&#39;s clear who owns the buildings.&quot; While many of these buildings have been rebuilt since my conversation with Alen, war damage is still plainly evident.</p>

<p>Mostar&#39;s skyline is tense with symbols of religious conflict. Ten minarets pierce the sky like proud exclamation points. Across the river, twice as tall as the tallest minaret, stands the Croats&#39; rebuilt Catholic church spire. And from the top of the reconstructed bridge I see, on the hilltop high above the town, a single, bold, and strongly floodlit cross. Alen says, &quot;We Muslims believe that cross marks the spot from where they shelled this bridge&hellip;like a celebration.&quot;</p>

<p>Leaving Mostar to return to Croatia, I stop at a tiny grocery store, where a woman I befriended the day before &mdash; a gorgeous person, sad to be living in a frustrating economy, and unable to bend down because of a piece of shrapnel in her back that doctors decided was safer left in &mdash; makes me a hearty ham sandwich. As she slices, I bend down to gather the rest of what will be a fine picnic meal on wheels.</p>

<p>On the way out of town, I drive over patched bomb craters in the pavement. In <a href="/europe/bosnia-herzegovina/sarajevo">Sarajevo</a> (the country&#39;s capital, which suffered similar strife), they&#39;ve filled these scars with red concrete as memorials: &quot;Sarajevo roses.&quot; Here they are black like the rest of the street &mdash; but knowing what they are, they show up red in my mind.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/000/103/medium/d89bd69e411afba2dfca7a19b214b361/310MostarBridge.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Mostar's iconic Old Bridge — built 400 years ago and destroyed in 1993 — has been rebuilt. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/019/979/medium/f984a8029bfefe962b7dcd6306fa6ede/bosnia-herzegovina-mostar-coppersmiths-street.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Colorful, cobbled Coppersmiths' Street, perched high above the banks of the Neretva River, has the flavor of a Turkish bazaar. (photo: Gretchen Strauch)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2062</guid>
      <title>In Studio: Roaming the Homes of Europe’s Top Artists</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/artists-studios-homes-europe</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-09-04</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>As a traveler, I find myself visiting the homes of lots of dead people. Some are over the top (Louis XIV&#39;s Versailles near <a href="/europe/france/paris">Paris</a>); some are haunting (the Anne Frank House in <a href="/europe/netherlands/amsterdam">Amsterdam</a>); others inspire poetic reflection (William Wordsworth&#39;s Dove Cottage in England&#39;s Lake District).</p>

<p>Many of my favorites are the home studios of artists &mdash; painters, sculptors, writers, architects, composers. There&#39;s something about these special places that conjures the strange magic of creative work. Luckily for travelers, many have become museums that welcome visitors.</p>

<p>Perhaps the most high profile of Europe&#39;s home studios is <a href="https://claudemonetgiverny.fr/" target="_blank">Claude Monet&#39;s</a>. The spiritual father of Impressionism, Monet spent 40 years cultivating his garden and his art at Giverny, 50 miles northwest of Paris.</p>

<p>Monet&#39;s actual sky-lighted studio is now a gift shop, but the artist&#39;s real workspace was his five-acre garden. A master of color, Monet treated his garden like a canvas, choosing and planting his peonies, irises, and lavender bushes for maximum effect. In turn, the flower beds inspired some of his most iconic artworks. He often painted <em>en plein air</em>&nbsp;&mdash; outside &mdash; sometimes on a footbridge that overlooked a Japanese-style pond choked with his precious water lilies. Strolling the pathways here is like witnessing an Impressionist painting come to life.</p>

<p>The concept of the artist&#39;s studio got its start in the Renaissance, when established masters maintained art workshops and taught apprentices. When Florence&#39;s city fathers started building a new cathedral in the late 1200s, they founded the <a href="https://duomo.firenze.it/en/discover/restoration-workshop" target="_blank">Opera del Duomo</a> (Cathedral Workshop), where the sculptures for the church and its bell tower were crafted (<em>opera </em>is the Italian word for &quot;work&quot;).</p>

<p>Renaissance greats, such as Brunelleschi (who designed the cathedral&#39;s dome) and the sculptor Donatello, put in time there. Remarkably, the &quot;opera&quot; continues today within steps of the landmark cathedral, on the appropriately named Via dello Studio. Through the open doorway, you can see today&#39;s masters sculpting replacement statues and restoring old ones to keep the cathedral&#39;s art in good repair.</p>

<p>Over time, the typical studio became less a communal workshop and more a place of solo industry and reflection. Norway&#39;s greatest composer, Edvard Grieg, maintained just such a classic artist&#39;s retreat. He spent his last 22 summers, until 1907, at the Victorian-style home he called <a href="https://www.kodebergen.no/en/museums/troldhaugen" target="_blank">Troldhaugen</a>, just outside Bergen. Quiet, lush, and secluded, the dreamy setting was ideal for soaking up inspirational fjord beauty.</p>

<p>But the house was often bursting with family and friends. To counteract the constant hubbub, Grieg built a simple, one-room studio at the water&#39;s edge, and every day he&#39;d lock himself inside to be sure he&#39;d get something done. The cabin had everything he needed, and no more: an upright piano, a desk overlooking the water, and a couch for naps. Gazing at his rustic desk, his little piano, and the dramatic fjord scenery out the window, you can understand how Grieg&#39;s music so powerfully evokes the natural wonder of Norway.</p>

<p>Artists from as far back as the Baroque era had figured out that the studio could double as a sales room. When Rembrandt&#39;s career took off in Golden Age Amsterdam, the great Dutch painter moved to an expensive home with a well-lighted studio. He would paint his famous <em>Night Watch</em> here, among many other masterpieces.</p>

<p>The artist lined the walls floor-to-ceiling with his paintings, and then invited potential patrons in to browse. Opening up the studio turned out to be good for business, so much so that Rembrandt also had a small office to keep up with his paperwork. (He wasn&#39;t terribly good at it, and eventually went bankrupt.) If you visit his <a href="https://www.rembrandthuis.nl/en/" target="_blank">reconstructed house</a> today, you can see how he used its rooms to display art to potential buyers.</p>

<p>Perhaps the most unusual home studio I&#39;ve toured is <a href="https://www.salvador-dali.org/en/" target="_blank">Salvador Dal&iacute;&#39;s place</a> near Cadaqu&eacute;s, Spain (an easy day trip from <a href="/europe/spain/barcelona">Barcelona</a>). As a kid, Dal&iacute; spent summers in this sleepy port town, and the eccentric artist came back years later with his wife, Gala. Together, they built a labyrinthine compound that climbs up a hill overlooking the Mediterranean.</p>

<p>Like Dal&iacute;&#39;s art, his home is offbeat, provocative, and fun. The eccentric ambience, inside and out, was perfect for a Surrealist hanging out with his creative playmate and muse. This place, and his partnership with Gala, became so important to Dal&iacute; that when she died in 1982, he moved away and never returned (he died in 1989).</p>

<p>Since then, everything in their home has been kept more or less as they left it, from playfully stuffed animals and mustachioed paintings to the couple&#39;s phallic-shaped swimming pool, the scene of orgiastic parties. In Dal&iacute;&#39;s studio, with its big windows drinking in light from the sea and sky, he painted for eight hours a day (he had cleverly innovated an easel that could be raised and lowered so he could staying seated while painting). Dal&iacute; lived large, but he worked hard, too.</p>

<p>Whether you&#39;re indulging in a fantasy in Dal&iacute;-land or floating serenely above Monet&#39;s water lilies, a trip to an artist&#39;s home studio can be a memorable highlight of any trip to Europe.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/598/medium/43cde7106c0296c7831437f6a7ae5ee1/norway-bergen-troldhaugen-092718-rs.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Composer Edvard Grieg retreated daily to this picture-perfect studio on a Norwegian fjord. (photo: Rick Steves)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/024/597/medium/90c271998798d460fde4ec0c8107f7b8/italy-florence-opera-del-duomo-092718-go.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Florence's Opera del Duomo workshop-studio has been going strong since the 13th century. (photo: Gene Openshaw)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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      <guid isPermaLink="false">2172</guid>
      <title>Historic Hits in Mod Milan</title>
      <link>https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/milan-italy-top-sights</link>
      <author>rick@ricksteves.com (Rick Steves)</author>
      <pubDate>2025-08-28</pubDate>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>While much of Italy&#39;s appeal is rooted in its relaxed pace and Old World feel, <a href="/europe/italy/milan">Milan</a> &mdash; the nation&#39;s second city and financial capital &mdash; offers just the opposite. But travelers who make time for Milan find that this modern, industrious metropolis packs historic highlights as powerful as other Italian cities&#39;.</p>

<p>I&#39;d start a first visit (well, any visit) at the heart of the city: Piazza del Duomo, which is dominated by Milan&#39;s <a href="https://www.duomomilano.it/en/" target="_blank">cathedral</a>, the Duomo di Milano<span style="font-size: 0.9375em;">. It&#39;s the third-largest church in Europe, after St. Peter&#39;s in Rome and the Cathedral of Sevilla in Spain. To build it, the Milanesi used the most expensive stone they could find: pink marble.</span></p>

<p>The facade is a commotion of Gothic features &mdash; pointed-arch windows, statues, little pinnacles, and reliefs. Scholars count a thousand individual carvings &mdash; big and small &mdash; on the church exterior and another 2,000 sculptural elements inside. Once you step through the entrance, you&#39;re struck by the immensity of the place. The soaring ceiling is supported by sequoia-size pillars.</p>

<p>After touring the interior, you can climb the stairs &mdash; or take an elevator &mdash; to the marble-paved roof, 20 stories up, for the most memorable part of a Duomo visit. Up here, wandering through a fancy forest of spires, you&#39;ll notice that the saint statues suddenly become more lifelike up close. Beyond the statues lies a stunning view: On a clear day you can see all the way to the Alps. A 15-foot-tall gilded statue of the Virgin Mary on the tallest spire overlooks it all.</p>

<p>Back on the ground, one side of Piazza del Duomo is dominated by a grand arch &mdash; it marks the entrance to the <a href="https://www.yesmilano.it/en/see-and-do/venues/galleria-vittorio-emanuele-ii" target="_blank">Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II</a>, built as one of the first shopping malls in the world. Then as now, it was home to shops and caf&eacute;s and lots of strolling locals. Today, you can linger among luxury stores such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Prada.</p>

<p>Though it looks like it&#39;s built of stone, the Galleria is actually a skeleton of iron beams faced with stone and topped with glass. When it was built (between 1865 and 1877), it was the marvel of its day and proclaimed Milan as the most cultured city of a newly united Italian nation. Later, the Galleria was the first building in Milan to have electric lighting.</p>

<p>If you cut through the Galleria from the cathedral square, you&#39;ll pop out at Piazza della Scala, home of the <a href="https://www.teatroallascala.org/en/the-theater/fondazione-teatro-alla-scala.html" target="_blank">La Scala Opera House and Museum</a>. Teatro alla Scala first opened its doors in 1778 and quickly established itself as one of the premier opera theaters in Europe. The stage is enormous, the acoustics are wonderful, and the talent has always been top-notch. Many of the greatest operas got their first performance here &mdash; <em>Madame Butterfly</em>,<em> Nabucco</em>,<em> Turandot</em>. Almost all of the great opera singers &mdash; from Caruso to Callas to Pavarotti &mdash; have sung here. But unless you have tickets to a performance (expensive and often hard to get), you&#39;ll be limited to the adjacent museum. While the museum has an extensive collection sure to thrill opera buffs (original scores, Verdi&#39;s top hat, Rossini&#39;s eyeglasses, Toscanini&#39;s baton, Fettuccini&#39;s pesto), the main reason to visit is the opportunity it offers (on most days) to peek into the actual theater.</p>

<p>Milan&#39;s most famous sight, <em>The Last Supper</em>, is away from the city center<em>.</em> Leonardo&#39;s fragile fresco survives &mdash; just barely &mdash; inside the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, centuries after it was painted right onto the wall of what had been the church&#39;s dining hall. (Deterioration began within six years of its completion, plus the church was bombed in World War II &mdash; but the wall holding <em>The Last Supper</em> remained standing.) Though today it&#39;s in a humidity-regulated room that strictly limits the number of visitors, most of the original paint is gone. Still, visitors come from around the world to see what&#39;s left of this remarkable work &mdash; <a href="https://cenacolovinciano.org/en/visit/#reserve" target="_blank">reservations</a> are mandatory, and should be booked three months in advance.</p>

<p>The exactingly crafted fresco is a masterpiece of natural-looking lighting and expressive faces. Christ and his 12 apostles are eating their last meal before Jesus is arrested and executed. Leonardo captured the moment of psychological drama when Jesus says that one of the disciples will betray him. The apostles huddle in stressed-out groups of three, wondering, &quot;Lord, is it I?&quot;</p>

<p>Leonardo spent three years on <em>The Last Supper.</em> It&#39;s said that he went whole days without painting a stroke, just staring at the work. Then he&#39;d grab a brush, rush up, flick on a dab of paint&hellip;and go back to staring.</p>

<p>Milan may be overshadowed by <a href="/europe/italy/venice">Venice</a> and <a href="/europe/italy/florence">Florence</a> as a tourist destination, but this stirred-up melting pot of people, industry, and history is one of the top treasures of the wonder that is modern-day <a href="/europe/italy">Italy</a>.</p>
<table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/025/547/medium/eb1afbc3aeaa0f5693325c3e0808a9c0/italy-milan-duomo-041119-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>Made of pink marble and decorated with Gothic spires, Milan's cathedral is one of the largest in Europe. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><table><trbody><tr><td><img src='https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/025/546/medium/be7d15ab7d247904efcfb37216210a69/italy-milan-galleria-041119-ch.jpg' width='255'></td></tr><tr><td><p>One of the world's first shopping malls, Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II still impresses today. (photo: Cameron Hewitt)</p></tr></td></trbody></table><p><em>Rick Steves (<a href='https://www.ricksteves.com'>www.ricksteves.com</a>) writes
            European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and
            public radio. Email him at <a href='mailto:rick@ricksteves.com'>rick@ricksteves.com</a> and follow his
            <a href='https://www.facebook.com/ricksteves'>blog on Facebook</a>.</p>]]>
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