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Rick Steves' Croatia & Slovenia

Updates since the third edition:

General

Budget airlines have begun service to Zagreb, beginning with flights by Spanair and Norwegian. Negotiations are underway between the Zagreb airport and Europe's two biggest low-cost airlines, Ryanair and easyJet.

Croatia

Jadrolinija's costal car ferries, which connect several destinations along the Dalmatian Coast (including Split, Stari Grad/Hvar, Korčula, and Dubrovnik) will likely not run this winter (October 2011 through April 2012).

Dubrovnik

Villa Ragusa has a new website.

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Sarajevo

We are preparing a new chapter on this fascinating city (2.5 hours northeast of Mostar) for the upcoming fourth edition of our guidebook. If you visit Sarajevo in the meantime, we stronly recommend hiring a good local guide to show you around. Amir Telibečirović, a journalist, war veteran, and historian, explains Sarajevo's sights and history — from ancient to recent — with brilliant clarity, and can add immeasurably to your visit here (€15 per person for a tour of any length, mobile 061-304-966, walteraga@yahoo.com).

Updates for those still traveling with the second edition:

Croatia

Stores in Croatia are now legally required to be closed on Sundays. This move is backed by the Roman Catholic Church in order to return a focus on families. Exceptions include newsstands, bakeries, and shops at bus stations, train stations, and gas stations.

Zagreb

The Zagreb Card offered by the TI no longer pays for itself; skip it.

From the train station, you can now take either tram #6 (direction: Crnomerec) or tram #13 (direction: Zitnjak) to Jelacic Square. You can ride the tram for free for up to two stops in any direction from Jelacic Square (including the train station); people over age 65 can ride free anywhere.

The Zagreb City Museum is now open Tue–Fri 10:00–18:00, Thu until 22:00, Sat 11:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–14:00, closed Mon (at north end of Gradec at Opaticka 20, tel. 01/485-1361).

The email address for Hotel Astoria is recepcija@hotelastoria.hr.

Internet access is now free at Fulir Backpackers Inn.

The veal prepared peka-style at Vinodol Restaurant is only served at certain times each day — generally at 12:30 and 18:30.

The Jägerhorn Restaurant has closed.

Near Zagreb
Samobor

The email address for Hotel Livadic is info@hotel-livadic.hr.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Buses from Zagreb to Plitvice run about hourly until about 16:00; sporadic buses after that should be avoided as they get you to the park extremely late.

The park is open every day, but the hours vary by season. In summer, it's generally open 7:00–20:00 (last ticket sold at 16:00); in spring and fall, 8:00–18:00 (last ticket sold at 14:00); and in winter, 8:00–16:00 (last ticket sold at 12:00).

Istria
Rovinj

The bus station may move to the north side of the Old Town, just above the long waterfront parking lots.

The Galax launderette is now open daily 6:00–20:00, even longer hours in summer, closed Sun Oct–Easter.

The aquarium is now open June–Aug 9:00–21:00, Sept 9:00–20:00, Oct–May 10:00–16:00 or longer, depending on demand.

The email address for the Hotel Villa Angelo d'Oro is now hotelangelo@vip.hr.

Porta Antica has new contact information: tel. 052/812-548, mobile 099-680-1101, www.portaantica.com, portaantica@yahoo.it.

The email address for the Hotel Vila Lili is info@hotel-vilalili.hr.

Pula

The amphitheater is now open daily June–Aug 8:00–22:00, May and Sept 8:00–20:30, Oct 8:00–17:00, shorter hours Nov–April.

The Temple of Augustus is now open daily June–Aug 9:00–22:00, Sept 9:00–20:00, early to mid-Oct 9:00–19:30, May 9:00–21:00, closed mid-Oct–April.

The Archaeological Museum of Istria is now open May–Sept Mon–Fri 9:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 9:00–15:00; Oct–April Mon–Fri 9:00–14:00, closed Sat–Sun (tel. 052/351-301).

Porec

The Porec TI has a new website: www.istria-porec.com.

The Kvarner Gulf
Opatija

Hotel Bristol has new contact information: fax 051/278-287, www.milenijhoteli.hr, info@milenijhoteli.hr.

The room-booking agency Kvarner Touristik now has a website: www.kvarner-touristik.com.

Rab

Hotel Imperial has new contact information: tel. 051/724-522, www.imperial.hr, imperial@imperial.hr.

Hotel Padova has new contact information: tel. 051/724-544, www.imperial.hr, padova@imperial.hr.

The Residence Astoria has a new email address: astoria@astoria-rab.com.

The Hotel Ros Maris has closed.

Korčula

Marko Polo travel agency has closed. You can buy Krilo catamaran ferry tickets at the small kiosk on the embankment near Hotel Korčula, and Nona Ana catamaran tickets at the Korkyra Travel Agency (mobile 091-571-4355, info@korkyra.info).

For Rezi and Andro Depolo's rooms, please do not use the email address listed (viladepolo@hotmail.com). This email has been hacked and is being used in an unauthorized way. Instead, email them at tereza.depolo@du.t-com.hr.

Anka Portlan, who rents rooms, has a new email address: vesna.stankovic.14@gmail.com.

Fresh eatery has closed.

Dubrovnik

Plans to consolidate Dubrovnik's smaller TIs into one larger office just outside the Pile Gate (near the main bus stop) might lead to the closure of some of TI branches. Until then, you'll find TIs in the Old Town, in the Pile neighborhood, at Port Gruz, and in the Lapad resort area (note that only the Old Town and Port Gruz TIs are likely to stay open through the winter).

Combo-Tickets: The TI has a new combo-ticket, but we recommend you skip it and instead get a three-sight combo-ticket available at the sights it covers: The Rector's Palace, Maritime Museum, and Rupe Granary and Ethnographic Museum — which normally cost 40 kn apiece (45 kn to visit any two, 50 kn to visit all three, tickets available at any participating sight, valid for 3 days). If you're visiting any one of these sights, you might as well buy this ticket and poke into the others, since it costs just slightly more than an individual entry. The TI's bigger combo-ticket — which covers the same three sights, plus the City Walls and a few lesser attractions — won't save the casual sightseer any money (100 kn for one day).

Shuttle Bus to Korcula: Korcula-based Korkyra Travel Agency runs a handy door-to-door shuttle service from your Dubrovnik accommodations to Korcula (125 kn one-way plus 10 kn/bag, departs Mon–Fri at 14:00 year-round, Sat–Sun by request only, 2 hrs, reserve ahead, mobile 091-571-4355, info@korkyra.info).

The Rupe Granary and Ethnographic Museum has new hours: Wed–Mon 9:00–16:00, closed Tue.

Jadranka Benussi, who rents rooms near the Old Town, has a new website at www.dubrovnik-benussi.com, and a new email address at jadranka@dubrovnik-benussi.com.

Lidija Matic's rooms are now called Plaza Apartments. She has a new website (www.dubrovnik-online.com/apartment_plaza) and a new email address: lidydu@yahoo.com.

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Mostar

The Museum of Herzegovina now has a website: www.muzejhercegovine.com.

Hotel Ero has a new email address: hotel.ero@tel.net.ba.

Pansion Emen is now the Motel Emen, and has a new website and email address: www.motel-emen.com, info@motel-emen.com.

Villa Fortuna B&B has a new email address: fortuna_headoffice@bih.net.ba.

The Jami Restaurant and Oscar Nightclub have closed.

Medugorje

The correct phone number for the Gardens Restaurant is tel. 036/311-645.

Montenegro

Drivers visiting Montenegro must now pay a €10 "eco-tax" at the border. Your rental car may already have a toll sticker for this tax — ask when you pick up your car. The proceeds will be used to improve environmental standards in this newly independent nation.

Kotor

The TI is now open generally May–Oct daily 8:00–20:00; Nov–April Mon–Sat 8:00–15:00, closed Sun. It has a new phone number: tel. 032/325-950.

The Maritime Museum of Montenegro is now open July–Aug daily 9:00–23:00, progressively shorter hours off-season. It has a new phone number: tel. 032/304-720.

Hotel Marija has a new phone number and email address: tel. 032/325-062, hotel.marija.kotor@t-com.me.

Budva

The TI has a new phone number: tel. 033/452-750. The website listed in the book is incorrect; instead, try www.visit-montenegro.com/cities-budva.htm.

Sveti Stefan

The resort is currently closed to visitors. Plans to restore it are on hold because of the global economic downturn. You can pay €12 to park at the mainland and walk along the beach, but you can't walk across to the island itself.

Slovenia

Slovenia has done away with its tollbooth system on its expressways (avtocesta). Instead, drivers who use these fast roads are required to buy a toll sticker, or vignette (Slovene: vinjeta, veen-YEH-tah; €15/1 week, €30/1 month). Vignettes are sold at gas stations, post offices, and some newsstands. If you're caught driving on expressways without one, you could be fined several hundred euros.

Ljubljana

To ride a bus (not likely necessary in this small, very walkable city), you first have to buy a plastic card, called the "Urbana," for €2 (nonrefundable), which you then load with credit to pay for rides. A ride costs €0.80, but you can't pay the driver — you have to use the card (shareable by up to three people). You can buy the Urbana card at the TI, bus station, and some newsstands. Transit info: www.lpp.si.

Local guide Minka Kahric has a new email address: polarnimedo@yahoo.com.

Consider visiting the delightful Slovenian Ethnographic Museum, Ljubljana's most underrated attraction. At the core of the collection is an exhibit that strives to explain what it is to be Slovenian, with well-presented and well-described cultural artifacts from around the country (many English descriptions posted, others are borrowable). A good but slow-moving film visits the four major regions of Slovenia. One exhibit ponders how people half a world away — in Slovenia and in North America — simultaneously invented a similar solution (snowshoes) for a common problem. Another exhibit deconstructs Slovenian clichés (including this country's odd fascination with its traditional hayracks). The collection is displayed to emphasize the evolution of an increasingly complicated civilization, from basic farming tools to ceramics to modern technology. The children's section features an A-to-Z array of engaging, hands-on activities. The museum also houses a collection of non-European cultures (with more photos and prose and fewer artifacts), as well as high-quality temporary exhibits. The newest permanent exhibit, called "I, We, and Others," just opened. If you've caught the Slovenian folk culture itch, this is the place to scratch it (€4.50, free last Sun of month, Tue-Sun 10:00–18:00, closed Mon, great café, about 10 min walk from Prešeren Square at Metelkova 2, tel. 01/300-8745).

To reach Istria by public transportation, you have two relatively straightforward options: In summer (June–late Sept), a direct bus departs Ljubljana for Rovinj each day (around 13:45, 5.5 hrs, €22, no buses off-season). Mondays through Fridays year-round, there's also a train connection to Pula (departs around 13:20, 3.5 hrs, changes in Divaca, Slovenia, and Buzet, Croatia); once in Pula, you can connect by bus to other Istrian destinations. On off-season weekends, you might have to get creative (try connecting through Rijeka).

Bus service between downtown Ljubljana and the airport has changed somewhat: Two kinds of buses connect the airport with Ljubljana's bus station: public bus #28 (to the right as you exit the airport; Mon–Fri hourly until 20:00, only 7/day Sat–Sun, 45 min, €4.10), and a minibus (to the left as you exit the airport, scheduled to depart after various arriving flights — look for schedule posted near bus stop). Two different companies run the minibus transfers, which take about 30 minutes: Markun (€5 to train station, €9 to your hotel, mobile 041-792-865) and Marko Nowotny (€8 regardless of your destination, mobile 040-771-771, www.airport-shuttle.si). I'd take whichever one is departing first. For a transfer to the airport, your hotel can make arrangements with one of these companies a day or so in advance (same price). Unfortunately, certain evening arrivals don't coordinate well with either the bus or the minibus, so you might have to wait a while or take a pricey taxi (figure €20–25 to the airport, but more like €42 from the airport — since you have to use the pricey taxi stand out front).

Lake Bled

Hotel Lovec has a new phone number: tel. 04/620-4100.

Grand Hotel Toplice has a new email address: ghtoplice@hotelibled.com.

Travellers Haven has a new website: www.travellers-haven.si.

Logarska Dolina

Tourist Farm Perk has a new email address: krivec.neza@siol.net.

Ptuj

Vladmir Šilak, who rents seven comfortable rooms, has a new email address: info@rooms-silak.com.

Appendix

The phone number for the Slovenian Tourist Office has changed. When dialing from the US, call 011-386-1-589-8550.

In the Climate chart, the third line shows the number of rainy days.