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Rick Steves' Italy

Updates since the 2010 edition:

As of Dec. 13, 2009, Milan–Amsterdam night trains are no more (several connecting routes are possible in the absence of a direct train). Milan–Rome travel time will be cut by 30 minutes, down to three hours, when Italy opens new high-speed track on the Bologna–Florence segment, as well as Novara–Milan and into Naples. Switzerland–Italy fast trains are no longer called "Cisalpino" and are re-classified as EuroCity trains.

Milan

Last Supper reservations are once again available over the phone at 02-9280-0360 (from the US, dial 011-39-02-9280-0360; note that Italy is 6/9 hours ahead of East/West Coast times).

Updates since the 2009 edition:

General

Two budget airlines listed in the appendix, Volare and Alpi Eagles, are no longer in business. For an updated list of European budget airlines, see Flying Within Europe.

Venice, Verona, and Vicenza

See the updates page for our Venice guidebook.

The Lakes: Lake Como

Varenna

The correct contact person for the Castello di Vezio is Giorgio, whose mobile number is 348-824-2504.

The correct email for Villa Elena is milkiriver@alice.it.

Menaggio

Lakeside La Primula youth hostel has reopened (€16, Db-€34, includes breakfast, non-members pay €3 extra, dinner-€14.50, tel. 0339-652-3824, www.lakecomohostel.com, info@lakecomohostel.com).

Milan

Hotel Sabotino is now Hotel Arco Romana (though you may find it still has its old name on the bell). It's been extensively renovated, and prices have gone up accordingly, though not exhorbitantly (S-€60, Sb-€80, D-€90, Db-€110). All rooms have Wi-Fi and air conditioning, and most rooms have sunny private balconies (tel. 02-5830-8797, fax 02-583-000-60, www.hotelarcoromana.it, info@hotelarcoromana.it). Until its new website is up and running, try www.hotelsabotino.com.

The Brek cafeteria at Via dell'Annunciata 2, two blocks from Montenapoleone, has closed (but the other Brek near Piazza San Babila remains open).

The Cinque Terre

The phone number for guide Andrea Bordigoni is 347-972-3317 (Italian mobile), and her email is bordigo@inwind.it.

Local guide Paola Tommarchi has a new email address: paolatomma@alice.it.

Riomaggiore

The National Park shop/information office near the train station has new hours and contact info: Mon–Fri 8:00–19:30, Sat–Sun 8:00-22:00, tel. 0187-760-515, acoglienzariomaggiore@parconazionale5terre.it. It now offers baggage storage (€0.50/hr per piece, plus €6 surcharge if left longer than 6 hours, 8:00–19:45).

The tiny Cinque Terre Antiche Museum has new hours: daily 9:30–13:00 & 13:30–18:00.

Manarola

Readers report trouble with the the Cassa di Risparmio della Spezia ATM machine at the bottom of the main street (near the entrance to the train-station tunnel). It's been known to charge users' accounts without spitting out cash — avoid using it.

Corniglia

The phone number for the new hostel is 0187-812-559.

Vernazza

The TI and park office have new hours: park office — April–Oct daily 9:30–20:00, until 19:30 Nov–March; TI/train ticket desk — daily 7:00–20:00.

Nord Est boat rental is now open May through October.

Pension Sorriso has a new fax number and email address: fax 0187-821-198, info@pensionesorriso.com. Some rooms now have air-conditioning.

To reach Trattoria Gianni on Wednesday, try calling mobile 393-9008-155.

Affitta Camere de Annamaria has a new email address: info@camerelatorre.com.

The Trattoria del Capitano is now closed from November through December.

The email address for Kate Allen, a masseuse recommended in "Helpful Hints," is katarinaallen@hotmail.com.

Camere Fontana Vecchia's new fax number is 0187-812-261, and new mobile number is mobile 333-454-9371.

Bar Baia Saracena no longer rents rooms but their restaurant continues to serve pizzas and local cuisine (no breakfast).

Monterosso

The Net Internet café is now open daily 9:30–23:00. Off-season it closes for lunch and dinner breaks.

The launderette at Via Mazzini 2 is now open daily 9:00–18:00.

The shuttle bus from Monterosso no longer goes to Levanto.

Albergo Pasquae has a new website (www.hotelpasquale.com).

Hotel la Colonnina accepts cash or travelers checks only.

Hotel Baia requires a 2-night minimum stay from May through September.

Ristorante Tortuga is now open daily 12:00–14:30 & 18:00–22:00.

The correct date for the Salted Anchovy and Olive Oil Festival in 2009 is September 20 (listed incorrectly in the sidebar on page 282 as well as the festival list on page 868).

The Hotel Villa Steno has a new website (www.villasteno.com), and the correct price for a double room (with bathroom) is €150.

Riviera Towns near the Cinque Terre

Santa Margherita Ligure

The correct website and email address for Villa Anita are www.hotelvillaanita.com and info@hotelvillaanita.com.

Brigitte and Peter Kleiner no longer offer cooking classes.

Florence

See the updates for our Florence & Tuscany guidebook.

Pisa and Lucca

See the updates for our Florence & Tuscany guidebook.

Hill Towns of Central Italy

Orvieto

Agriturismo Locanda Rosati has a new website (www.locandarosati.it) and email address: info@locandarosati.it.

Civita de Bagnoregio

Civita has died. (Long live Civita.) Maria, the last life-long resident of Italy's ultimate hill town, is too frail to live in the town now. Her husband, Peppone, passed away earlier this year, and will be missed.

For more on hill towns, see the updates for our Florence & Tuscany guidebook.

Rome

The Roman Forum walk incorrectly lists Forum entry as free; it actually requires an €11 combo-ticket, which also covers the Colosseum and Palatine Hill (as explained on page 643).

For other amendments to the Rome chapter, check the updates for our Rome guidebook.

Naples and Pompeii

The Napoli Collegamento train station is being renamed "Napoli–Garibaldi." For this year, you might see both names in circulation.

Admission to Naples' Archaeological Museum is cash only.

The House of the Vetti, Pompeii's best-preserved home, remains completely blocked off, but may reopen in late 2009. Pompeii's theater is also closed; no date has been set for its reopening.

Sorrento and Capri

Sorrento

Ristorante Pizzeria da Gigino is closed Jan–Feb.

Sant'Antonino's is now open Thu–Tue in Feb–March (but still closed in Jan; closed on Wednesdays Nov–March).

Standa supermarket is now open Sundays (9:30–13:00 & 17:00–20:30).

Amalfi Coast and Paestum

Positano

Les Chic, where Paolo once made leather sandals to order, has closed.

Hotel Bougainville does not offer a 20 percent discount for stays in April, though it does generally offer cheaper rates in winter (tel. 089-875-047, www.bougainville.it, info@bougainville.it, Simon and Marella).