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Rick Steves' Paris

Updates since the 2012 edition

Sights

Prices for all versions of the Paris Museum Pass have increased €4. Current prices: 2 days/€39; 4 days/€54; 6 days/€69.

The Impressionist wing of the Orsay Museum has, at last, reopened.

The Rodin Museum is closed for renovation until April 3, 2012, after which rooms will be opened one by one as they're finished (final reopening likely not until 2014). While the permanent collection is closed, the museum's chapel is hosting a temporary exhibit, and the gardens will remain open throughout the renovation.

Connections

Trains between Venice and Paris now use Gare de Lyon (not Paris Bercy), and are run by Thello, a private company that has stated it will not accept railpasses on this train. For more on this winter's schedule changes for Paris trains, see our Rail News page.

Updates for those still traveling with the 2011 edition

Orientation

Paris tourist information offices (TIs) no longer have a main phone number, but still post info at their website at www.parisinfo.com.

The correct website for Paris Greeter is www.parisiendunjour.fr.

The wine-tasting experience at Ô Château is discounted 10 percent with a Rick Steves book (no longer €10).

Staffed ticket windows in Métro stations are gradually being phased out in favor of ticket machines, so expect some smaller stations to only have machines. Be sure to carry coins or small bills of €20 or less (not all machines take bills and none take American credit cards). If a ticket machine is out of order or you're out of coins and small bills, find a tobacco shop to buy tickets.

Bus #73 continues from place de la Concorde to the Orsay Museum (this leg is missing on the map on pages 38–39).

L'Open Tour's nighttime bus tours depart from 2 rue des Pyramides, not 214 rue de Rivoli.

Bike About Tours is open daily 9:00–11:30 & 14:30–16:30 (still closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb).

Fat Bike Tours offers a €2 discount on daily rentals, a €4 discount on four-hour bike tours, and a €4 discount on night-time tours. All discounts require you to show a Rick Steves' Paris or Rick Steves' France guidebook.

Sights

The Deportation Memorial near Notre-Dame is closed on Mondays (open Tue–Sun April–Sept 10:00–19:00, Oct–March 10:00–18:00).

Sainte-Chapelle is open for night visits on Wednesdays in summer (March–Oct daily 9:30–18:00, Wed until 21:30 May 15–Sept 15; Nov–Feb daily 9:00–17:00 ). When visiting Sainte-Chapelle, no matter what time of day, keep in mind that bags are screened, and sharp objects (e.g., Swiss army knives) will be confiscated (previously such items were returned to visitors). Sainte-Chapelle shares an entrance with France's Supreme Court, necessitating tight security.

The Conciergerie is open daily March–Oct 9:30–18:00, Nov–Feb 9:00–17:00.

At the ever-changing Louvre, the pre-Classical Greek section is closed until late 2012, and construction continues on the exciting new Islamic art wing, also due to open in late 2012. Various galleries devoted to decorative arts are in flux until spring 2013.

Combo-tickets covering the Orsay Museum and the Orangerie cost €13 and are valid for four days (one visit per sight, available every day).

Same-day combo-tickets covering the Orsay Museum and the Rodin Museum cost €12.

The last ascent to the lower levels of the Eiffel Tower via the stairs is at 18:00.

The correct website for the Arc de Triomphe is www.arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr.

At the Army Museum/Napoleon's Tomb, audioguides are now €6 in addition to your admission ticket or Museum Pass.

The Marmottan Museum is open late until 20:00 on Thursdays, not Tuesdays.

La Grande Arche has closed to visitors indefinitely, including the elevator ride up to the view and exhibits at top.

Bus #69 Sightseeing Tour

You cannot hop on and off the same bus line on a single ticket. So, while our Bus #69 tour works great if you stay on the bus, be prepared to buy a new ticket if you hop off to visit any of the sights along the way.

Sleeping

Grand Hôtel Lévêque no longer has a singing maid, and their 2011 rates are S-€75–95, Db-€95–145, Tb-€140–175.

Hôtel St. Dominique is closed for major renovations until early 2012 .

Hôtel du Champ de Mars' 2011 rates are Db-€98, Tb-€129.

Hôtel de Londres Eiffel has changed some of its 2011 rates: small Db-€185, bigger Db-€195, Db with Eiffel Tower view-€220.

Hôtel de l'Empereur has changed some of its 2011 rates: Sb-€130, Db-€160–180.

Hôtel la Serre's rates for 2011 are D-€80–140.

Hôtel Relais Bosquet has new prices for 2012: Db-€185–295, extra bed-€29, breakfast buffet-€14.60. Those who book direct with Rick Steve's Paris or France books in 2012 receive a 15 percent discount when they mention the book (discount is not valid on website or Facebook promo rates which can be better deals).

Hôtel Saint-Louis Marais closes in November 2011 for a huge renovation.

Hôtel Bastile Spéria's rates for 2011 are Sb-€115–140, Db-€135–180.

Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles charges for breakfast and Wi-Fi.

The correct URL for Hôtel du Loiret's website is www.hotel-du-loiret.fr.

Eating

We regret to report that Madame Boyer, longtime chef at Au Petit Tonneau, has passed away. A colleague is continuing to prepare Mme. Boyer's signature dishes at the restaurant.

Connections

Concierge-service provider Paris Webservice's fee for airport pickup can vary, and may be more than the price stated in the book (estimate about €160–180 for up to 4 people round-trip between Charles de Gaulle and central Paris).

Day Trips

Versailles

Entry is free to both the Château and Trianon Palaces/Domaine de Marie-Antoinette on the first Sunday of off-season months (Nov–March). In addition to weekends from April to October, the fountain spectacles in the gardens now happen on Tuesdays from late May to late June.

Café Bleu Roi no longer sells tickets or passes.

The guided-tours office is now located on the right-hand side of the courtyard as you face the palace (directly across from the box office).

Chartres

Malcolm Miller now gives guided tours of the cathedral only to groups of at least 12 people.

Reims

The city's two tram lines are now fully operational; you can take line #B to get from the out-lying Champagne-Ardenne TGV train station into the city center.

Laverie Chanzy has closed; instead, try the launderette a few blocks south of the cathedral at 49 rue Gambetta (daily 7:30–21:00).

Grand Châteaux

Entry to the Château of Fontainebleau is now €10.

Impressionist Excursions
Giverny

Le Clos Fleuri has a new website: www.giverny-leclosfleuri.fr.