Brussels, Mussels, and Markets
Brussels is every chocoholic's dream come true.
By Rick Steves
Brussels is easy to miss as you zip from Amsterdam to Paris by train, but its rich, chocolaty mix of food and culture pleasantly surprise those who stop. The city's main square, ringed by elegant buildings and aptly called La Grand Place, is the heart of the old town and the greatest sight Brussels has to offer. Any time of day it's worth swinging by to see what's going on. With concerts, flower markets, chocolate shops, illuminated sound-and-light shows, and endless people-watching, it entertains.
This powerhouse of a city is the capital of Belgium and the European Union. Here the BeNeLux (Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg) union formed 40 years ago, paving the way for today's European Union. But visitors have more pressing concerns than talking politics, such as comparing chocolates at the shops on Grand Place. Are Godiva's handmade confections worth nearly twice the cost of Leonidas' machine-made treats? It takes a lot of sampling to judge. At Godiva the smallest amount sold is 100 grams, but Leonidas will sell by the piece. Most locals sacrifice 10 percent in quality to double their take by getting their fix at Leonidas.
Wander through Brussels' excellent Royal Museums of Fine Arts, two collections linked by a common tunnel and entry ticket. The Ancient Art Museum, featuring Flemish and Belgian art of the 14th to 18th centuries, is packed with a dazzling collection of masterpieces by Van der Weyden, Breughel, Bosch, and Rubens. Highlights include a room busy with works by Breughel and multiple rooms of Rubens (with delightful mini-cartoons used as designs to produce the big canvases).
The Museum of Modern Art next door is an enjoyable stroll through the art of the 19th and 20th centuries. Key works include David's famous neoclassical portrait of Marat and the stirring Social Realism paintings of the early Industrial Age. The Magritte Museum, honoring the Surrealist painter René Magritte, is in the same museum complex and contains over 150 works housed on three floors of a Neoclassical building.
One of Europe's best music museums is the marvelous Musical Instruments Museum. You're given a pair of free headphones and set loose to wander several levels featuring folk instruments from around the world, a history of Western musical instruments, and an entire floor devoted to strings and pianos. As you approach an instrument, you hear it playing on your headphones. The museum is skimpy on English information — except for a laminated sheet in each section that simply identifies instruments — but the music you'll hear is an international language. For a spin through the past, visit AutoWorld, a delight for any car enthusiast. Starting with Mr. Benz's motorized tricycle of 1886, you'll walk through a giant hall filled with 400 historic cars.
Brussels has its silliness, too. Its mascot is the Manneken-Pis, a statue/fountain of a little boy who lives up to his name. You'll find him three blocks off the Grand Place, possibly wearing some clever outfit. By tradition, costumes are sent to Brussels from around the world. Cases full of these are on display in the City Museum on the Grand Place. For the story behind this little squirt, check a postcard stand. Other bits of Brussels' quirkiness include the Belgian Centre of the Comic Strip (Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée), where only the Belgians get the jokes, and the city's biggest landmark, the Atomium. This gigantic atom from a 1958 fair, recently remodeled, makes for a fun "retro" photo. The viewing area and restaurant at the top have panoramic views.
For a grand perspective on Brussels, take one of the City Tours. This three-hour bus tour provides an easy way to see and learn about the Royal Palace, the European Union Headquarters, and many more of Brussels' sights. You'll get off the bus at a lace workshop (shopping stop) and at the Atomium (picture stop). When you're hungry, muscle your way into a restaurant to order mussels in Brussels. They're served everywhere. You get a big-enough-for-two bucket and a pile of fries. Use an empty shell to tweeze out the rest of the mussels. The fries are served a la Belgique, with mayonnaise. Add a glass of any one of Belgium's 700 types of beer and toast Brussels' seamless union of food and fun.
For up-to-date specifics, see the latest edition of the Rick Steves' Amsterdam, Bruges & Belgium guidebook. We also offer free-spirited tours of the Low Countries.