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Europe's Christmas Markets

Treats to gobble, and goblins to ogle

By Julie Coen

One of the most picturesque times of the year to be in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland is during the pre-Christmas season. Many regions are snow covered and lit brightly for the holidays.

Goblins and demons spread mischief, but there are good guys too.
Goblins and demons spread mischief, but there are good guys too.

In Austria, advent wreaths are an important tradition. They are decorated with ribbons and four candles to signify the four weeks leading to Christmas Eve. Ancient legends also come alive when winter goblins, spirits and demons spread mischief. Masked actors play out the conflicts of good and evil, and dark and light. In Innsbruck, the old town bustles with busy Christmas markets and the "sound of music" fills the air in Salzburg and Vienna.

In Switzerland many Christmas markets also fill the streets with handmade treasures and activities for children. December 6 is St. Nicolas Day, when children in all three countries set out their shoes in hope that the jolly old guy will fill them with nuts, chocolates, tangerines and homemade cookies. Swiss children also look forward to receiving a graetimaa — a man-shaped bread decorated with raisins and spun sugar.

In Germany, the sweet aroma of lebkuchen (gingerbread) and Stollen breads wafts through holiday markets. Nürnberg, famous for packaging its delightful gingerbread in countless ways, has one of Germany's best Christmas bazaars. Christmas markets reign throughout the country, in towns small and large. Hand-carved wooden ornaments and nativity scenes, festive wreaths, and aromatic candles line the booths, when you stroll by cradling a cup of hot, spiced wine.

In the alpine areas of all three countries, winter festivals are spectacular. Running from November through February, they offer horse and carriage racing, hot air ballooning, ice-skating and more. Germany's "Viva Winter Fun — Party at the Zugspitze" was one of this year's most sensational.

For detailed information contact each country's tourist board:

German National Tourist Office: www.cometogermany.com, tel. 800-651-7010. Maps, Rhine cruise schedules, castles, biking, and city and regional information.

Austrian Tourist Office: www.austria.info, tel. 212/944-6880. Ask for their "Austria Kit" with map. Fine hikes and city information.

Switzerland Tourism: www.myswitzerland.com, tel. 877-794-8037. Comprehensive brochures, great maps, and hiking material.