Eger is a county-seat town in northern Hungary, with about 60,000 people and a thriving teacher-training college. While many travelers have never heard of Eger, among Hungarians, the town has various claims to fame. It's a bishopric whose powerful bishops have graced it with gorgeous churches. It has some of the best and most beloved spas in this hot-water-crazy country, and the surrounding wine region is world-famous. And yet, refreshingly, enchanting Eger remains mostly off the tourist trail. Egerites go about their daily routines amidst lovely Baroque buildings, watched over by one of Hungary's most important castles. Everything in Eger is painted with vibrant colors, and even the communist apartment blocks seem quaint. The sights are few but fun, the ambience is great, and strolling is a must. It all comes together to make Eger an ideal introduction to small-town Hungary.