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Rick Steves' Amsterdam, Bruges & Brussels:
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If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?


Brussells Welcome Hotel
My husband and I and another couple recently stayed at the Brussells Welcome Hotel. A great place to stay and the people were just wonderful. So helpful in every way. And so patient in helping us navigate our way around the city.We ate at La Villette, which was wonderful, and La Belle Maraichere, a very nice place. Both are withing walking distance of the hotel.Going to Brussels? Do consider the Brussells Welcome Hotel. It's lots of fun. And you won't find a friendlier bunch of people anywhere.
Jeri Woodward <email>
Seal Beach, Ca, CA   USA   Tue 05/31/2005


many and new hotel
Hotel Caruso's rooms run for about 50.00 Euros and they also have an attached Italian Restauraunt that has a live piano player every night I have been there. Hotel Amadaeus has internet connetions for lap tops and was totally wonderful for me. Rockies Coffe house in Amsterdam does not roll tobacco with their joints. Its a good deal. Please consider Hotel Caruso as a tour group stop over instead of Hotel Joops. I almost died in Hotel Joops as they put no bath mats down in their bathrooms even after I complained about falling three times. Laying down a towel does not work with the way the bathrooms are arranged. Keep in mind that Hotel Caruos does not have sound proofing walls, but does have vast unused sections that could be transformed into a meeting place for the entire tour bus. This book was awesome, but please list book stores in the resources section that sell more of your books. I have looked all over Haarlem for one of Rick Steves books for Germany as I leave now to bicycle the Rhine River. My moneybelt went missing and it took a week for the US Consulate to give me a new one. Thanks for all the good info. Darlitiawww.ontheroadsoftheworld.com
Darlitia Carlo
  USA   Mon 05/30/2005


Bruges and Haarlem
Absoluut Verhulst is a must if you are staying in Bruges. We loved it! The breakfast was wonderful a little different each morning and Benno and Frieda are wonderful too.

We also can recommend eating at the Rock Fort (which is around the corner from the B&B). The meal was excellent.

We drove up to Haarlem from Bruges and stayed in Hotel Carillon. The rooms are small and bare and while it was clean and the staff was friendly we would not recommend it to others.

Corrie ten Boom House is a must in Haarlem, and if you are there in the spring (mid-March to mid-May) check out the bulb gardens at Keukenhof www.keukenhof.nl
McNays
Mettweiler,    Germany   Wed 05/25/2005


CONTRAST B & B in Brugge
We also had a great stay at CONTRAST B&B in Brugge. My husband and I stayed there for two nights in April, 2005.

This B & B is very contemporary with a funky design. It is situated in an ideal location, near the edge of the central tourist district, but still in a quiet area. It is made of three spacious rooms that are located across a garden from the main house. This allowed for more privacy than staying in one’s home.

The breakfast is very nice and along the line that we are accustomed to when staying in European Inns (e.g., pastries, bread, eggs, cheese, cold cuts, yogurt, and cereal).

Dries and Cathy, the owners, were very friendly and helpful. We left our adapter and they offered to have their son meet us in Brussels (as he goes to school there) to return it to us.

If you seek a modern feel with friendly hosts and a great location, Contrast is a very smart choice. We will definitely stay there on our next visit to Brugge!
don & cathy
Potomac Falls, VA   USA   Tue 05/17/2005


Bruges & Amsterdam
Having returned from Bruges and Amsterdam after many previous trips, we agree with Rick that the place to save money on accomodations is in Bruges. We stayed at Dieltiens B&B 4nights and were sorry to leave. Rooms were clean, comfortable, & roomy and breakfast was excellent for the 60Euro price for a double, & the hosts were gracious and helpful. We'll return!

In Amsterdam, we stayed at Hotel Zandbergen near Vondelpark (not in Rick's book), which appeared recently renovated, had comfortable rooms with modern spotless bathrooms, a great buffet breakfast, free computer/internet access in lobby, excellent hosts (Mr.&Mrs. Vonk), and was worth the 117Euro price for a double (includes a discount for booking on internet & paying in cash).

We experienced no difficulties using ATM card in Bruges, but this was because ours is on VISA network.

Best bargain for dinner in Bruges was the Chicken In on Sint Amandstraat, which serves an excellent 1/2 chicken dinner with a mountain of frites and salad for under 10Euros. In Amsterdam, we enjoyed Rick's recommendation for bargain Indonesian food at Taman Sari, which offered inexpensive rijstafel in a simple setting off the beaten tourist path. Near Hotel Zandbergen is Restaurant Yade City, offering inexpensive & filling Chinese Indonesian meals (also away from tourist paths).

The two basic Belgian food groups, beer & chocolate (just kidding--well, sort of)were superb in Bruges at Straffe Hendrik Brewery and Dumon Chocolates (Madame Dumon is God!)
Jim & Donna <email>
Houston, TX   USA   Sun 05/15/2005


Brugge
Two things learned from our recent trip to Brugge.

1. The Laundry is located at 51 Ezelstraat, not 51 St. Jacobstraat.

2. The TI is no longer located at Burg Square but is now in the Concertgebouw which is close to the train station. Not sure but I think both the Burg and Train Station TI's have been consolidated into this new location.

We were very pleased with the staff and hospitality of the Hotel Adornes. The free bikes were in better condition that those seen on the street and came in handy several times. We also enjoyed dinner at The Flemish Pot. Already missing the great beer and coffee.
Mel & Debbie <email>
Rosharon, TX   USA   Wed 05/11/2005


Bruges B&B Contrast
After travelling quite a lot around the world, we decided to stay a little bit more close to home and went for a holiday to Bruges in Belgium. We stayed in a wonderful B&B (contrast) in the middle of historical Bruges. I saw some comments here that were not so positive, well we do not agree. We had a great time at Cathy and Drieses place. The breakfast was wonderful (please do normal you can't expect to have a greasy horrible unhealthy english breakfast all over the world, thank god not, why do you think we are so slim and good looking in the low countries :) And the rooms suited the name of the B&B, contrast!! I thought it was a great name and setup! Thank you very much for the great time! And you dont have to pay the parking fine, we didnt hear about it anymore back in Holland.
Maria <email>
Nijmegen,    NL   Mon 05/02/2005


Bruges
My husband and I live in Heidelberg and our bookshelf is full of Rick's guides. However as last minute planners we paid the price by not being able to get into a recommended lodging. Should this happen to you never stay at a b&b called Nicky's. Way overpriced, dirty and above a restaurant that stayed open late. A recommended restaurant de Koeste we found to not be affordable. The service was unimpressive-mixing up our tables order, rushed and rude and worst of all not asking the women of our party for their drink order! Our meal at the recommended The Flemish Pot made up for the previous evenings meal.

The Little Pancake House as it is also known as was indeed little so if you don't mind practically rubbing elbows with your neighbors the food was really tasty. We sat in the upstairs and the seats weren't that comfortable but the overall feel was charming. The Straffe Brewery Tour was alright - worth it for the view from the top alone. We liked the beer so much we went back the next day.

I wanted a little bit of authentic lace and was pleased to meet Patrick, the owner of the Little Lace Shop. He was ever so friendly, sharing some family history and providing a helpful description of how to tell good lace from great lace. Even though I only bought a couple of small good pieces that didn't make any difference to his service. Just outside his shop is an excellent photo op as well.

If you bike out to Damme have a coffee and pannekoeken at the Ter Kloeffe -across from the chuch - if you are inside you can sit near the stove where they are being made and warm up. Very friendly and appears to be family run. Bruges has been one of the few cities that even on easter sunday you could find a place to eat in the morning and still purchase your chocolate. One last bit of advice - if you are driving you might find it easier to park your car at the train station for just a few euros and take a taxi to and from your hotel-it saves a lot of anxiety regarding traffic and parking.
Michelle Curtis <email>
Heidelberg,    GER   Thu 04/28/2005


We stayed at the Hotel Amadeus (p. 194 of 2005 Amsterdam Bruges & Brussels guidebook). The staff was not welcoming, the bathroom smelled (a fan ran hard and long to combat the odor), and it was unbelievably noisy. The noise was not only the construction noise at 7:30 am, but also the walls/floors were so thin that you could hear people walking and using the toilets on the floor above us. On a happier note, we ate at the Black Beauty restaurant in Haarlem which was not only fun, but affordable and delicious. The owner went out of his way to help us and we felt very welcome.
Jean <email>
Vienna, VA   USA   Wed 04/27/2005


Amsterdam & Bruges
We had precisely 2.5 days for Amsterdam and 2 days for Bruges and the recommended visiting spots within Rick's book proved to be very helpful in deciding and planning.
Here are some key points from our recent experience:
1. The Hotel Shuttle run by Connexxion from Schipol Airport was the best deal, specially if you are flying back from Schipol, since it only costs 11euros/person one-way or 17euros/person with return. Since it is a door-to-door service we were glad that we did not have to lug or wheel our bags over the cobbled stone paths from the Central Station to our hotel.

2. There were quite a few cafes on Damrak (close to the Central Station) that had cheap internet access and specifically cheap international calling cards or cheap per minute service

3. For flower lovers Keukenhof Gardens (off Leiden station) is a must and you should combine Madurodam which is Holland in miniature (1/25th the scale) along the way since it is in the Hague which will be along the way to Leiden

4. Europe seems to be way behind in the usage of credit cards so have plenty of cash, TCs or an ATM card (except in Bruges where cash is it)

5. Bruges was awesome and we stayed at the Setola B&B (recommended in Rick's book) and were very pleased with the large and quiet Lila room. The breakfast was sumptuous and it easily made us skip lunch for an early dinner

6. We highly recommend the bike tour to Damme since it offers a great look of the countryside and a nice bike ride with minimal cobble stones paths. We used the Pink Bear tour (very informative and humorous guide) since it started at a more suitable 10:30 AM rather than 1 PM (which was the timing of the Quasimundo tour)

7. The Heineken Experience tour was very interesting

8. Restaurant Vliegende Schotel (recommended in the book) within the Jordaan area was excellent and we highly recommend it. Plus it is close to the Anne Frank Museum which itself is a must-visit
Hitesh Puri <email>
Plano, TX   USA   Sun 04/17/2005


Brussels
My wife and I took our first trip to Brussels in March and stayed at the Welcome Hotel recommended in Rick's guide book. A great choice and we had a wonderful time. It was clean, quaint and all the people couldn't have been more accomodating. The location was also very good.

One place we ate at that was not mentioned in the guide book was was La Villette, within walking distance of the Welcome Hotel, and it was a great place to dine. It is small, so make sure you have reservations. The mussels we fantastic.
Jim Jones <email>
Corinth, MS   USA   Sun 04/17/2005


Accomodations in Bruges
We stayed at the Koen and Annemie Dieltiens' holiday apartment when we visited Bruges over the easter holiday. It was reasonablypriced, beautifully decorated, and very comfortable. Thanks to Rick Steves for suggesting a great service.
K
Trenton, NJ   USA   Fri 04/15/2005


Bruges and Contrast B&B – both excellent choices
We recently spent a week in Bruges, enjoying both the city and our B&B, Contrast, operated by Dries and Cathy. Not only is Contrast within walking distance to most areas and near bus stop to go to the rail station, but also it is well organized with three spacious rooms at the back of the garden. Our hosts were welcoming, warm and generous, providing whatever we desired for breakfast, putting beautiful fresh daffodils in our room and giving us local information. Bruges is a wonderful place to visit! Maybe next spring again??
ruth and hugh
Kelowna, BC   Canada   Thu 04/07/2005


Bruges/Brugge Misc.
We were in Bruges/Brugge just one night as we passed from England to the Netherlands.

My most important comment is really a warning. We counted on our ATM cards and didn't carry enough emergency cash. The cards work fine in England and Netherlands, but not in Brugge. None of the cash machines were on the Cirrus network. They seemed to be labeled only for VISA. Very tight on cash, we were surprised at how difficult it is to use a VISA credit card due to minimums and many stores that just won't take them. We ran into this both at afternoon tea and lunch. Neither met the establishment's minimum. The tea room warned us and ignored the minimum in the end. The restaurant didn't warn us and complained as we paid. The place was empty at noon and they prefered to give us grief over taking our credit card. Seems odd to me.

We were on a budget and were satisfied with Hotel 't Keizershof about a block and half from the station. Inexpensive, plain, clean, and polite.

We're not into the jewelry and fashions on the "shopping street" so we spent more time by Minnewater. We got incredible photos, liked the Little Lace Shop Rick recommends, and had a romantic dinner next door at Restaurant Minnewater (not Castle Minnewater). Reasonable and very good 3 course fixed price dinner. It's a charming location away from most tourist areas. We were there in March. We may have enjoyed off-season prices, but I think 18 Euros for each of us was reasonable for a tourist destination (before drinks).

Of course, St. John's hospital was a must see. Great art and unbelievable manuscripts.

Finally, Dumon's Chocolate recommended by Rick - great pick. We brought back lots of boxes as presents. Alas, we neglected ourselves.

I enjoyed Brugge and was glad to finally visit there, but it wasn't my favorite city of the vacation.
Brien <email>
Saratoga Springs, NY   USA   Mon 04/04/2005


Great Restaurant in Amsterdam
Found a great little family restaurant in Amsterdam on the edge of the Jordaan. Restaurant 't Zwaantje is a Dutch locals place a few doors off the PrinzenGracht two blocks from Westekirk at Berenstraat 12. Great food at very reasonable prices, recommended by our favorite bartender who eats there nightly.
Dave Butler <email>
Laguna Beach, CA   USA   Fri 03/25/2005


Choice little B&B in Bruges
A friend and I stayed at the B&B Marieke in Bruges .The owners Willie and Trees made us feel right at home in their clean little home. The rooms are spotless and the Marieke is witin walking distance to everything.Suggest you take a good map to avoid the Medieval dejavus, we walked down the same street 4 times from 4 different directions and still didnt know it.Suggest the Brewery tour, and the Museums. Also, suggest several Whit Beers at the Beer Garden across from the Fish Market,just sit back and enjoy the sites, mix with the locals and be very thankful. Ah Belgium...
Jeff Tardiff <email>
Cardiff by the Sea, ca   USA   Sun 03/13/2005


bed and breakfast aspasia bruges
We had great time in bruges BandB aspasia. They rent only one room ...The room was in art deco-style. We spend a whole week and also went ot Ghent, Brussels Coast...Easy to do this from the guesthouse with public transport.They have a self-made website www.aspasia.be.
Sivester Guiver <email>
lochness ,    UK   Tue 03/08/2005


Great Belgian Hotels
I meant to say that Noga Hotel is in Brussels, rather than Belgium. Getting my "B"s mixed up. Sorry.
Rick Manyik
Chicago, IL   USA   Wed 03/02/2005


Great Belgian Hotels
We were just in Belgium and wanted to pass along some very favorable comments about 2 Rick Steves recommended hotels. Both of them were very clean, with great breakfasts, wonderful hosts, and on quiet side streets. The first is in Brugges, Hotel Botaniek, www.botaniek.be. The second hotel is in Belgium, Noga Hotel, www.nogahotel.com.
Rick Manyik <email>
Chicago, IL   USA   Sun 02/27/2005


Warning: Euro change rip-offs in Paris
Hi:
I haven't seen this as a warning in your materials, but maybe I missed it.

When we visited France, mainly in Paris, we (as Americans) started wondering why we were getting quarters in our pockets from change. We finally figured it out when we realized that the Euro dollar coin is the same size as the American quarter, and so, for our change we were being given quarters instead of euro dollar coins. I finally caught on after we bought tickets at a Metro station and realized that the cashier had done this...what a bundle she must be making!

When we visited Italy and Switzerland we didn't notice this happening but, of course, we were checking our change by then. Unfortunately, I doubt this scam occurs only in France.

Sincerely, Noel Farmer
Noel Farmer <email>
New York, NY   USA   Thu 02/17/2005


Belgium the Week After Christmas
My wife and I spent the week after Christmas in Belgium. We stayed at the Marriott Brussels, an excellent 4+ star property that was offering incredible rates for that week (worked out to be about 100 euros/night).We both agreed we had never been so infused with Christmas spirit as we were in Belgium. The Grand Place was wondefully decorated and lit, the manger scene had live animals, and every evening there was a light/music show and numerous carolers. It was truly a magical experience.Brussels has some of the best museums in Europe as well as a wonderful assortment of "street food" - chocolates, waffles, and fries. The Christmas market was still going strong so every evening we would stroll the streets by the Grand Place, seeking bargains and that special bottle of wine.We took a short one-hour train trip to Bruges and spent yet another delightful day in that city.We purchased other guide books (Fodors and Frommers) but quickly discarded them in favor of Rick's. This was 5th our trip to Europe since 1998 (our 2d this year). We were married in Venice - a whole other story - in 1998 and return as often as possible.For interested travellers, Belgium the week after Christmas is a true back door with great prices, few tourists, and a wonderful Christmas spirit.
Jim Stover <email>
Dallas, TX   USA   Tue 02/15/2005


Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam
I am finally writing in to tell everyone that when in Amsterdam they absolutely MUST stay at Hotel Keizershof! I just recently returned from a two month trip to Europe and some of my fondest memories are from Hotel Keizershof. An amazing, informative, hilarious, kind, and energetic staff, an adorable dog, a beautiful garden, a perfect location, the largest and most satisfying breakfast ever (they make you omlettes made with fresh tomatoes from their garden! plus they regularly have fresh fruit salads with berries which we all know is unheard of in budget hotels in Europe!), large and impeccably clean rooms (I suggest the Charlie Chaplin room which overlooks the canals or the Marlene Dietrich room which overlooks the garden), and wonderful bathrooms and showers with water pressure make Hotel Keizershof the perfect hotel. In fact, I liked it so much I returned three times during my two month trip! I have no better advice to give anyone besides STAY AT THE HOTEL KEIZERSHOF! I cannot express enough how enjoyable and delightful they made my stays in Amsterdam. I must respond to the posted note about uncleaned rooms at this hotel; I never once experienced disappointment in cleanliness at Keizershof. The extent of cleanliness is one of the reasons I loved it so much. One morning we returned from breakfast to find that our room had been made up while we were at breakfast and all of our stuff was perfectly organized, our shower scrubbed down, new towels placed in our room, and fresh linens on our bed. By far the best hotel run by the nicest and funniest people in Western Europe! Happy travels!
Sara <email>
Ventura, CA   USA   Sun 01/30/2005


Church of Our Lady in Bruges
We toured Brussels and Bruges in Nov. using Rick's city walks and had great success. My husband especially enjoyed the Straffe Hendrick Brewery tour in Bruges. Unfortunately, the hours listed in Rick's book for Church of Our Lady were wrong and I missed seeing Michelangelo's Madonna and Child sculpture. The church closed at 4:00, not 5:00. The brewery tours also went later than as posted in the 2004 Amsterdam, Brussels, Bruge guidebook.
Rochelle <email>
Highlands Ranch, CO   USA   Sun 01/23/2005


Amsterdam in January
Our crew had a few days in Amsterdam following NYE celebrations in Barcelona. While the trip was encumbered by recovery from a food poisoning incident in Spain (a story not worth retelling) we still have a few recommendations to pass along.

The Jordaan is definitely the place to stay in Amsterdam. Great neighborhood vibe with plenty of restaurants, grocery stores and fun shops. We were fortunate enough to get rooms on two of the house boats maintained by the Hotel Acacia. If room is available we recommend asking for the “modern” house boat. These rooms are a little nicer and sit above the water level. This allows you to open a sliding glass door and look out onto the canal with its flocks of ducks. This was by far the best lodging we have had in Amsterdam.

The Caramba Café across from the hotel was a great place for a casual Mexican/Southwest-type meal our first day in town. We also visited Café Restaurant de Reiger. This was an excellent meal at a great price. All of Rick’s accolades for this neighborhood restaurant are well founded. Foodism, right next to the Grey Area coffee shop, is a usual stop for us and did not disappoint this trip. This is a great place for smoothies and pasta dishes.

Rick’s coffee shop recommendations in the Jordaan are spot on. We recommend Paradox for ambience and The Grey Area for the quality and consistency of their product. These are both friendly places with relaxed staffs. One of our other favorite recommendations is Noon. This is a little more of a “locals” place with a great location near the front entrance of the Rijksmuseum.

All of our trips to Holland are enjoyable and this round was no exception. While this trip was a little bit of a disappointment because of illness, we were impressed as always by the openness, helpfulness and generosity of the many wonderful people we encountered on this trip.

Safe travels to all and best wishes for a great 2005.
Ned Fletcher <email>
Atlanta, GA   USA   Sun 01/16/2005


Amsterdam & Brussels
Amsterdam is a delight. Just looking at the city after departing from the AMS Central Station lifts your spirits. The architecture, Dam Square, the canals, everyone on bicycles, what a great place. We stayed at Hotel Brouwer which was a great choice. Thanks Rick. The room was large, comfortable and full of character. Breakfast was excellent and the Brouwer's staff were friendly and helpful. As good as it gets. Anne Frank's House was touching especially since many of my relatives died in the Holocaust. I only wish that it held more of the original furnishings. The Van Gogh Museum exhibits more of the master's works than anywhere else. Fantastic!! We also enjoyed walking around Haarlem, the Grote Kerk and the Frans Hals Museum. Great history and first class destinations.Brussels had interesting sights but it was the food and drink which were truly memorable. From "french" fries to mussels to belgian waffles to chocolate to the best beer in Europe, we feasted the whole time we were there. We stayed at Hotel St. Nicolas which was well appointed and provided a great location. However, our room faced a busy street and was quite noisy. I could still recommend it just ask the clerk to put you on the quiet side. The Grand Place is a sight to behold and Cathedral des Sts-Michel-et-Gudule is equally magnificent. I would pass on the Musee Instrumentale where we kept having to adjust the headsets to get them to work. Also, the most interesting wings such as the one for Jazz cost more.
B.C.
  USA   Sun 01/16/2005


Den Helder
Travelled to Den Helder last January to see a different part of Nethl. Stood on top of dike and looked at North Sea. Interesting. Saw ferry to nearby island and nice beaches in the distance. Small nice town. Excellent tourist office. Trip up north on train great. Saw the new floating houses I saw on Tv at home. Boats parked in front. Fantastic. Many greenhouses also.NL rarely disappoints. My favorite country (and that's choosing from the many good choices in Europe).Try traveling to the far reaches of NL on your next trip.
Bill
  Mon 01/10/2005


Apartment - Frederic Rent A Bike
We stayed in Amsterdam at an apartment rented through Frederic Rent a Bike (www.frederic.nl). I highly recommend this accomodation. With four kids, the cost of staying in a hotel and eating out for every meal is prohibitive. We had an apartment with a kitchen, bathroom, two bedrooms, and a large living room, in which Frederic provided two single beds. A fantastic location on Brouwersgracht. Only criticism is that some of the apartment furnishings and appliances are beginning to show their age. However, this is a very small inconvenience compared to staying in a true canal front house in a convenient location. Frederic was very responsive. Marvin greeted us when we arrived and sketched out a great map of things to do and see. After seeing Amsterdam's museums and shops, the apartment was a great place to come back and relax. I would rent through Frederic again.
Mike
Rome,    Italy   Sun 01/09/2005


Feeling Welcome in Brussels
We stayed at the Hotel Welcome recently on a business trip to Brussels. The hotel was very clean and the room comfortable and nicely furnished (we were in the Tibet room). All of the amenities are provided, including hair dryer, tv (although there are not many English-speaking channels), telephone, and heated towel racks (a definite luxury given the weather!). The hotel is a good value, especially given its location just across St. Catherine Square from the main Metro line. A substantial breakfast is included. The staff is very helpful, which is an important factor to us. We would definitely stay here again.
Shari <email>
Kansas City, KS   USA   Mon 01/03/2005


Missing Information
When going over to the new format, information on a good hotel was deleted from my post, two down from here. The Hotel Maraboe, is a good choice. E96 w/breakfast. www.hotel-maraboe.com. It is not in Rick's book but fits the profile of friendly and family owned.

Larry <email>
Florence, KY   USA   Sun 12/26/2004


Hotel Welcome is terrific!
Definitely consider this hotel for a stay in Brussels. Its convenient location--right across from a metro stop in the old fishmarket area--makes it easy for you to get to central station and, from there, to any part of Belgium. Our room was comfortable (heated bathroom floors!) and clean, and the breakfast included with your stay is hearty and delicious. Michael and Vanessa were so gracious and helpful. They gave us maps and directions, made dinner reservations for us, etc. This is a top-notch spot, and if I am ever in Brussels again, I will definitely stay here.
Kelly <email>
Easley, SC   USA   Fri 12/17/2004


Bruges-Hotel and Restaurant
We were in Bruges over a weekend in early November. If traveling to Bruges on weekend reservations are recommended.

The hotel is not in Ricks book but neither is the restaurant we found on Sunday night. The Peppermill or De Pepermolen was a great find, small and cozy with good food at reasonable prices for the quality. Located diretly across the street from Rick's recommended Rock Fort restaurant at Langestraat, 16, out of the town center by 10 minutes and, at least the night we were there, populated by local diners.
Larry <email>
  USA   Sat 12/11/2004


Flander's Field Tour
We agree that Frank Varenne's Flander's tour is very worthwhile. It was one of the highlights of our stay in Brugge. Would recommend it to all.
Cammie McCarvey <email>
Tucker, ga   USA   Sun 12/05/2004


Brugge
We stayed four nights with Paul and Roos Gheerarert-Vandevelde in their B & B located at Riddersstraat 9 8000 in Brugge. It was a delightful time. You cannot find better hosts and the breakfast spread is wonderful! We would recommend this B & B to anyone going to Brugge, a charming town. The hosts' can be reached at gheeraert.brugge@skynet.be or by phone +32(0)50 335627 or fax +32(0)50 345201.
Cammie McCarvey <email>
Tucker, GA   USA   Sun 12/05/2004


Hotel; sights; suggestions; money storage
We have visited Amsterdam twice now, with the help of Rick’s book and others, both times in October-November. Rick’s books are always such a pleasure to use; I wish he had a Dutch phrasebook, even though you hardly need one except to read signs and labels.

The first time in Amsterdam we stayed for a week and the second for two weeks. We stayed both times at the Hotel Kap, a couple of old Dutch houses and formerly a backpackers’ hostel but for some years now remodeled as a hotel and offering plain, clean, comfortable rooms with and without private baths and toilets. (The Kap is currently remodeling its rooms again.) Most of the staff are completely fluent in English, and everyone is very friendly and helpful. The breakfast buffet in the quiet, garden-side breakfast room (with classical music) is quite good. We have thoroughly enjoyed both stays there and regard it as our “home from home” in Amsterdam. I noticed that the Kap’s room-windows lack screens, so people visiting there in warmer seasons might want to be prepared for mosquitoes.The Hotel Kap’s location strikes us as excellent: on a quiet side street (Den Texstraat 5b) just off the Singelgracht, very near a major tram stop (Weteringcircuit, pronounced “VET-er-ing-sir-KWEE”), and within easy walking distance of Museumplein, the Concertgebouw, Albert Cuypstraat and its wonderful market, and just about anywhere else in Amsterdam. Rick may want to check it out for his next edition.

One of the greatest pleasures in Amsterdam is simply walking along the older streets and lovely canals -- in spite of the construction going on to extend the subway line farther south. To us, Amsterdam’s biggest challenge is not getting run over by bicyclists (ha ha).While I’d rather keep the Hotel Kap as “our secret,” that would be a disservice to the hotel as well as to other visitors.

We visited outside Amsterdam, too: Haarlem, Zaanse Schans, and beautiful Hoge Veluwe National Park and its Kroller-Muller Museum -- all wonderful in different ways. Even on a cool and cloudy day, Zaanse Schans had quite a few tourists milling about in its center. Luckily for us, we walked out to the windmill farthest from the center, De Bonte Hen. This windmill, volunteer-rebuilt and -run, grinds oils from seeds, like the linseed oils used to make oil paints from pigments ground from minerals by the next mill nearer the town, which I think is De Kat. Our visit to De Bonte Hen was especially enjoyable, as few people go all the way out there, and the volunteers were offering free cups of coffee -- quite good -- to those visitors who did. The two of us had a very enjoyable tour of De Bonte Hen with one of the volunteers, who had the time to go into detail about the fascinating way the mill’s ingenious oil-stamping machinery works.

Later on, back in Amsterdam and visiting Rembrandt’s house, the volunteer who demonstrated seventeenth-century paint-making techniques told us they used pigments from De Kat (and I think also oils from De Bonte Hen) for authenticity.

In our travels, I have used Rick’s moneybelt around the waist as well as the money-pouch around the neck. I keep my money, passport, any tickets, etc., in belt/pouch. As a woman and in public, I felt more comfortable pulling the money-pouch out of my turtleneck than fiddling for the moneybelt in what would always turn out to be my underpants. In either case, I have not had my pocket picked so far, and bad luck to anyone who tries: you’ll get only lint and ticket-stubs.
K.M. Morey <email>
Mammoth Lakes, CA   USA   Sat 11/20/2004


Hotel in Brussels
The Hotel Welcome in Brussels was a treat we wish to enjoy again. Location is excellent, and staff were unusually warm and helpful. Breakfast buffet was extensive and fresh and delicious. Kenya (room) was fun.
David Gregory <email>
Nashville, TN   USA   Mon 11/15/2004


Splurge Dinner in Brugge
We had an incredible dinner at Au Petit Grand on Philopstockstraat. It is an intimate restaurant with a staff of only four, two of whom are the owners Tom and Line. Every dish was wonderfully flavorful, well prepared, and nicely presented. We were three couples, and everyone raved about their individual meal.
Kerry <email>
Bellevue, WA   USA   Sat 11/06/2004


Brugge
I recommend spending two full days in Brugge if you want to visit all the museums, etc. They sell a pass for a bunch of museums for 15EU (think). The pass does not expire,so you can visit at your leisure. I found the city hall the most impressive of the museums I visited. BTW not all the buses run back to the train station from downtown. You need to pay attention and get on the right bus. I had a plat du jour of mussels at a nice restaurant near the Mary Church. Delicious.
Swan
  USA   Tue 11/02/2004


Staying in Haarlem
I arrived in Haarlem at noon and stopped at the TI next to the train station. They matched me with the B&B of Hanna en Egbert Bot. It was very nice with a FULL breakfast. The going rate for B&Bs in Haarlem is 20EU, double. I paid 25EU for a single, which was set up to sleep 3. The bathroom/shower was shared by 4 rooms, I think. My room had a sink. The place was across town from the train station, about a 25-minute walk. I didn't mind. A cab wouldn't cost much. It's only a few minutes walk to almost anything in town. I ended up staying in Haarlem for 5 nights and hardly even saw Amsterdam.

After 2 nights at the B&B I moved to the Carillon Hotel on the main plaza. That was interesting and very comfortable. My room was a tiny single with a big window--cozy and not claustrophobic. Breakfast was generous. The stairs are unbelievably steep and narrow. Not for the faint-hearted. I made generous use of the handrail, and decided not to drink any alcohol before climbing to my room. I would stay there again. Thirty-three Euros a night for singles. It's in Rick's book.
Swan
  USA   Tue 11/02/2004


Hotel Welcome, Brussels
My rooms -- I stayed twice recently -- were the funkiest I've ever had at a hotel -- in a good sense. I stayed in "Cuba" first, with a mural of old Havana on the wall and a fat cigar painted on the radiator. The opposite of an impersonal box. Second time, in "Thailand", was even better -- on top of a great room, I had a view, through roof-top windows, of the surrounding area of the city.

The staff could not have been more friendly and helpful. I thought I was just in Brussels as a way-station between other destinations, but with their help, I discovered and enjoyed the city in an unanticipated way. The location was super for exploring the historical parts of the city. Plus, Vanessa may have helped me unravel the mystery of the origin of my family name, for which I'm very grateful.Great experience. I'd definitely go back.
Jeff Sconyers <email>
Seattle, WA   USA   Mon 11/01/2004


Brugge
During the last two weeks of September, my friend and I did a “whirlwind” tour of Europe – Haarlem/Amsterdam, Brugge, Reims, Luxembourg, Koblenz, and finishing in Copenhagen. Six countries, and stayed at seven different places – a mix of B&Bs and Hotels. Of all of these places, we both agreed that Brugge was our favorite town and were we stayed was our favorite lodging.

We stayed at Absoluut Verhulst [Verbrand Nieuland 1; tel: 0032 (0) 50 334 515; web: www.b-bverhulst.com; e-mail: b-b.verhulst@pandora.be]. This wonderful B&B is listed in Rick Steves book – Amsterdam, Brussels & Bruges. It is run by two of the best people we met on this trip – Frieda & Benno Verhulst.

Frieda & Benno are very friendly and great hosts. There place is clean and classy, and they serve a breakfast that is also the best. We stayed in their “loft” rooms, which had two separate double beds, one upstairs in the upper portion with a full bath and one downstairs with a half bath. There was also a large living room with two sofas and television. This is quite a bargain at €100 per night. The loft is very suitable for a family as well.My only regret is that we stayed only two nights, but as I told Benno, I do plan on returning and will stay at there place which I heartily recommend Absoluut Verhulst to anyone coming to this beautiful town.

Travels in Europe just aired its new program today in fact, on Brugge and Brussels. If you will notice Rick spent 20 minutes on Brugge and 10 minutes on Brussels. I can only guess that Brugge is one of his favorites as well.
Ric Brooks <email>
Westminster, CO   USA   Sat 10/30/2004


Frederic Rent-a-Bike
I took the Amsterdam guidebook's recommendation and booked a place with Frederic Rent-a-Bike in Amsterdam. Five of us rented a three-bedroom apartment, and we thought it was great. The small bedroom in the basement was perhaps better suited to one non-claustrophobic person than two, but the other two rooms were spacious and all of the beds were very comfortable. The location was great. We found the staff, especially Marvin, to be very helpful, especially with places to shop and eat nearby. We had a full kitchen, and the grocery store was a five-minute walk away. Frederic Rent-a-Bike rents many other places around the city, and I would definitely take a look at their other offerings next time I go to Amsterdam.
Gretchen <email>
Seattle, WA   USA   Wed 10/27/2004


Welcome Hotel
We greatly enjoyed the Brussels Brugge book which helped us to plan our total trip in the two cities. We want to especially thank you listing the Welcome Hotel in Brussels which we had the pleasure of staying in our last night in Europe. We were given our choice of rooms, and a tour of the soon to be finished new breakfast room and reception area.

To our great dissappointment Micheal's restaurant is no more. But we were delighted by his homebaked croissants, best we've ever eaten and the full breakfast that was included in the very reasonable room rate. He also directed us to a great local restaurant for our last dinner. We would highly reccommend this Hotel to anyone wanting to stay within easy access of all the sites.
Sybil and Steve Kohl <email>
Brush Prairie, WA   USA   Tue 10/26/2004


amsterdam new urban living project next year also for guests

hi,
i also stayed there
it's cool normal living there
nohotel is the word
now i heard that fred and kitty has a new plan
making their own straw bales building
on steigereiland: own of the new urbanliving islamd projects east from central station
15 minutes by tram every 10 minutes wow
i have young kids so finally going to Amsterdam as a family
they have a beach you have your own bike/ canoe/ babysit
we can even take the dog they say
perfect idea
they tell you more= info@lievenachten.nl
greetings Tommy from London
tommy
london,    USA   Tue 10/26/2004


lieve nachten in amsterdam
Review by cordula , 04-22-04lieve nachten
going there is coming backfor me:the family and friends,feeling home easily in amazing amsterdam
upon entering this big canal view room/loft in the real centre/red light district, we felt very comfortable and very safe. - no problem with noise after closing the big windows. 4 of our 9 heads group stayed here but it was the central meeting and relaxing point for the whole group and the other 5 were jealous ;) it`s worth to mention and view (!) the beautiful chairs from ghana ;) not to forget: kitty and fred are lovely landlords!!! their faxnumber = +31204288843
cordula
  USA   Tue 10/26/2004


> Brussels: Hotel Welcome
Our recent stay at the Hotel Welcome was a delightful experience. This small hotel is unique in that each of its 15 rooms are named for a foreign country. The room is decorated and furnished in the motif of that country. We stayed in the DeLuxe room called China and enjoyed a loft with a sitting area and TV. The staff is warm and friendly and the included breakfast is quite good. We would return to the Hotel Welcome without hesitation if our travels take us to Brussels again.
Clarence Thomas <email>
Baltimore, MD   USA   Mon 10/18/2004


Bruges: Dieltiens B&B: SUPERB
B&BDieltiens: SuperbWe are travelling for 6 weeks in Europe: Venice, Rome, London,Amsterdam, Bruges,Paris.The highlight of our trip was Bruges.We stayed at the Dieltiens B&B. This was the best place of our trip.A very charming and incredible clean room. The breakfast was fabulous and Koen and Annemie were both most welcoming, warm and very helpfull.We extended our stay with 2 more nights in the holidayhousestudio.We enjoyed it very much: very comfortable and sparkling clean. For some days we felt like at home.We were very pleased and will definitely stay at Dieltiens B&B again. We highly recommend them.
John and Sharon Ross <email>
Wayland, MA   USA   Fri 10/15/2004


Dieltiens B&B, Bruges: Not always pleasant
While in Bruges, my travelling companion and I stayed at the Dieltiens' B&B for two nights. Annemie informed me via email that the Dieltiens' main house was fully booked , but she recommended we stay in the downstairs studio in her holiday house. After reading complimentary passages about Koen and Annemie in both "Amsterdam, Brussels and Bruges" and Lonely Planet's Belgium and Luxembourg travel guide, I was sure we had a winner, so I didn't hesitate to book.

Annemie was incredibly helpful, knowledgeable, hospitable and warm -- but when we got to our room, it left something to be desired. There were cobwebs in the ceiling corners, and a layer of grimy dust on the wall thick enough to be visible from the doorway. The room also smelled somewhat musty, and did not improve even though we left the windows cracked during the daytime to air it out. My travelling companion, who is sensitive to dust and mold, suffered from breathing difficulties and swelling around her eyes after sleeping too close to the dusty wall.

During our stay we had a lengthy conversation with our upstairs neighbors, an English couple who had spent two nights in the studio before moving to the more spacious upstairs flat. They expressed dissatisfaction with the studio and assured us that the upstairs flat is better maintained, though still somewhat dusty.It was raining when we checked out, and we shared a taxi to the train station with an Australian couple who had stayed in their guest house. We compared notes and they mentioned having been turned off by mold in the showers there.

While I am impressed by the Dieltiens' hospitality and helpfulness, I regret that I cannot recommend a stay in their holiday house. Ask to see your room in the holiday house before accepting it. If you tolerate dust well, you may not be bothered.If you do end up in the downstairs studio, you can rest assured that the sign on the wall chiding you to "leave the room as clean as you found it" is easy to heed. In fact, as I was unable to locate replacement cobwebs for the ones we knocked down while tidying up, we were forced to leave the studio in slightly *better* condition than we found it.
Tony Spataro <email>
Santa Barbara, CA   USA   Sun 10/10/2004


Bruges and Amsterdam
While I was in Bruges, I wandered into a small restaurant to have a late afternoon waffle and coffee. I pulled put my Rick Steves' book to comtemplate my next step. The restaurant owner noticed the book and excitedly came over and told me, "I'm in the book! I'm in the book." He proudly showed me where Restaurant Hennon is listed. Bruges was charming and I'm so glad I went there.

I stayed at the Hotel ter Bruge and had a gigantic room looking out on the canal. Madame Dumon and I had a delightful conversation about the differences between Bruges and Paris (my previous destination). Her chocolates were wonderful.

My next stop was Amsterdam and I found Rick's walking tours of the city easy to follow and very informative (even the Red Light District walk!). The dinner I had at Cafe de Reiger may have been the best I had during my entire trip to Europe this year. The staff was very friendly and patiently translated their blackboard menu for me.

Rick mentions that the service is sometimes slow at Cafe Vertigo but, at least, on the Friday afternoon I was there, it was self-serve. It was a beautiful afternoon and Cafe Vertigo is a great place to people watch in Vondelpark.

I did not take any of Rick's suggestions for hotels in Amsterdam and unfortunately ended up staying in an overpriced room about the size of a prison cell. The International Broadcasters convention is held the first week of September in Amsterdam making it hard to find rooms. If hotels want to gouge travelers with expense accounts, fine, but it's not good to do it to visitors paying with their own money.
Susan Taylor <email>
Denver, CO   USA   Sun 09/19/2004


B&B In Brugge
We just spent a great weekend in Brugge. We ended up staying at Contrast bed and breakfast. It just opened in July. We really like our room. There are three rooms, there is the blue room, yellow room and the red room. Each is different and great. The B&B is a short walk to the market square. Just fallow the canel. The oweners Dries and Cathy were very nice to talk to and gave us great places to eat. We can't wait to go back. www.contrastbrugge.de

We ate dinner down the street from the B&B at Bistro De Schaar. It is on Hooistraat. That is a wonderful place to eat. Everything we had was wonderful. If you like chocolate then get the dessert called the White Lady.

For great chocolate go to Neuhaus chocolatier. It is located on the right side of the bell tower down the alley. That is the best chocolate. Not cheap at all. But worth the money spent.
Liz <email>
  Germany   Tue 09/14/2004


Great Restaurant in Bruge
We had a very enjoyable meal at Chasse-Spleen in Bruge. It's off the beaten path but only a few minutes walk from the center of town. Strangely uncrowded, but it was in March when we were there. Good wine selection. I'm surprised it wasn't in Rick's book, it's kind of a funky place at a fair price. Oh, and very nice service. What more can you ask? I didn't know until now that they have a web-site: http://www.chasse-spleen.be/
Randy <email>
Menlo Park, CA   USA   Tue 08/31/2004


room rates
Do not trust that all room rates stated in the most current books are accurate despite best efforts. The rate in the book for Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam was their "off season" rates, whoops..they honored the book quote. Additionally,I had some convincing to do with Hotel de L'Alma in Paris to honor the rate of 79 euros stated in the book. Initially it was 109 euros then 90 euros. E-mail, reserve, then speak on the phone,if necessary, to get it right and get a hard copy print out. Regards Peter
Peter <email>
Seattle, WA   USA   Thu 08/26/2004


Frites in Brugge
Ooh -- I forgot to mention that we found a better frite place than the stands below the Bell Tower! If you go to Dumond on Eiermartstraat (sp?), keep walking until you see a sign on a corner for a "Frituur" that sells frites & burger & other food items. Only 50 Euro cents higher than the stands under the bell tower, but TONS yummier!
Annette <email>
  Germany   Sun 08/15/2004


Dumond...Brugge...Floral Carpet in Brussels
Oh....my....GOSH!! I totally agree -- Dumond chocolates are to DIE for! We just got back from a quick weekend trip to Brugge (we live in Europe, so it was worth the drive!) and since we missed Dumond our first time, we specifically hunted down the two stores. We initially bought one box for us and two for my hubby's work...but on the way home, we figured his office would do just fine with one! We still didn't do everything we wanted to in Brugge, so we know we'll be back!

Also -- the Flanders Hotel -- WONDERFUL!! The location is great, parking in the rear was safe, breakfast was good, and the front desk folks were oh-so helpful! When we asked about a taxi to the train station, they recommended the cheaper, easier bus route from right in front of the hotel!

We trekked down to Brussels on the train (driving downtown Brussels is a major pain in the keester!!) to see the Floral Carpet at the Grand Place (happens every 2 years, lasts only for 4 days) -- worth it for us to see, but the crowds were a bit much. We were grateful that we stayed in Brugge!
Annette <email>
  Germany   Sun 08/15/2004


Belgium and Holland tour comments
I recently took a 3-country tour after some business in the UK. My friend from work, his wife and baby, and I visited Belgium and Holland after 4 days in London and Cambridge.

Bruges was my favorite stop on our tour. We stayed at Robert and Lievtjes B&B (as recommended by Rick) and loved it. There is lots to see by way of museums, 600-year-old churches, and just plain picturesque, story-book sights. We took the bike ride out to Damme which was fun and scenic. I love the life-style shared by the Bruges partisans. They are very friendly (especially Robert) and love to talk about their pretty spot in life. Rick's book was invaluable in getting around and hitting the best sights. He recommended Tom's Diner (Robert also recommended this place) for a good place to have a great meal and it did not disappoint.

I think I'd give Brussels a pass if I had it to do over again (Rick had a similar opinion). Except for the Grande Place there wasn't much else to see.

Amsterdam was fun. It is a pretty, scenic city and has plenty to see. Just watch the pick-pockets on the trams. I kept my wallet in my front pocket and left as much cash locked away as possible. We stayed at the Hotel Keizershof where Mary and Hanneke run a fine B&B. Mary's omlettes in the morning are great.

We stayed at the Hotel Amadeus in Haarlem for a couple days and I recommend it for location, right on the main (Grote Markt) square. A great place to sit and have a beer.

I wish I could have spent more time sightseeing in the UK. There are some great sights there but it is significantly more expensive than Belgium and Holland.
Jerry <email>
San Jose, CA   USA   Thu 08/12/2004


follow up to changing linen
I forgot to mention in my previous posting that not only were the linens not changed but not once during our 3 night stay at the Keizershof were the beds made in my daughter's room or the bathroom cleaned. Even in hotels that ask their guests to not have their linen changed daily, staff cleaned the bathroom and changed and made up the bed daily.

I again want to emphasize that our stay at the Keizershof was not altogether unpleasant. The breakfast was great and Mary and Hanneke were very friendly, hospitable and gave us good advice on where to eat and transportion needs. I just wish that we had not had problems with mosquitos, cleaning the bathroom, and changing linens and beds in my daughter's room that basically cost them one-night's sleep.
mosquito ridden poster
Salem,    USA   Tue 08/10/2004


changing linen
As Stephanie points out, many hotels do not change linens daily. I am very aware of this policy since many of the hotels that we stayed at in the U.K. practiced this policy. However, these hotels posted this as their policy and invited guests that did not wish their linen changed daily to simply hang the linen back on the towel rack. I always do this given a choice since I am in favor of saving water and energy. However, the Keizershof had no postings indicating that this was their policy. In fact, they routinely changed the linens in my wife and my's room (which by the way also had a screen to keep out mosquitos) even when the linens were hung up on the towel rack. We pointed out one day to Mary that the linen in my daughter's room had not been changed. She seemed surprised and immediately offered new linen - which by the way never came. Again, I do not mind not having linen changed everyday but if this is the practice of a hotel (which I believe is the case with the Keizershof), then I expect it to happen.
mosquito-ridden poster
Salem,    USA   Tue 08/10/2004


Great Hotel, No Mosquitos
We stayed at the Hotel Keizershop in Amsterdam and had a lovely, lovely visit. The huge breakfasts saved us many euros in food costs and we were treated excellently. Happy to say no mosquitos--though being a mosquito-bite prone person I always carry creme insect repellent (won't spill in your luggage), an idea for those who don't want to spend 30E on a screen. (And a note to the mosquito-ridden poster: many hotels in Europe do not change towels and linens daily--a point Rick makes often in his books. We pack a couple of clothes hangers to let our towels dry out and did so at the Kaizershof.)
Stephanie <email>
San Francisco, CA   USA   Mon 08/09/2004


Brussels, Bruges, book comments
I had always watched Rick's PBS specials, but this is the first time I have gone to continental Europe. I used Rick's book for my stays in Bruges and Brussels. I had no idea of the POWER of Rick Steves, until I walked into Dumon's chocolate shop in Bruges, said Hello and was asked if I was from the U.S. When I said yes, the owner said, "Rick Steves?". I didn't have the book on me at the time, but I believe the owner is very appreciative of the recommendation in the book and assumes any American entering her shop has read Rick's book. I actually went into almost every chocolate shop I passed; I'm addicted.

I met many fellow travelers who use Rick's books as their travel "bibles". Anyway, I stayed in Bruges at the Royal Stewart B&B (Maggie) and Dieltiens B&B (Koen and Annemie). All lovely people and incredibly CLEAN, comfortable and reasonable places to stay. Maggie has to be the most warm and welcoming hostess I have ever come across in travel anywhere in the U.S., U.K. or Ireland. Each morning, she introduced new guests to each other, commented on where they were from, asked if they enjoyed their previous day (remembering what everyone had been planning to do), offered suggestions for non-touristy things to do and made sure everyone had everything they needed.

Some comments on the book info:
1. It was very hard to find the internet cafe in DeBroukere Place in Brussels. You must go downstairs at the metro stop. I walked around for a long time and asked many people before I found it. Keyboards are not American, so it is more difficult to type on, but the price is cheap compared to other places in town.
2. The map for bike tours around Bruges in the tourist office is a bit hard to follow for bike tour I am very good at reading maps and got lost twice, backtracking and finding my way only by luck. It ended up taking me a good 3 hours to bike to Zeebrugge. I enjoyed it anyway, as I got lost in the middle of nowhere and I think that's part of the fun.
3. The Italian restaurant someone mentioned on this board that is on Acadmiestraat near Jan Van Eyck Plein is called "Trium". I had an excellent light dinner for 7 euros.
4. It would have been nice for the book to have just a couple of pages on Gent and a map of the city center. Gent is an easy day trip from Brussels or Bruges.
5. I took the Quasimodo tour of Flanders Field and enjoyed it immensely. Only 7 people booked the tour that day, so we took a mini van instead of a larger bus. Lode doesn't run all the tours himself, as stated in the book. Our tour was run by his colleague, Sharon, who also does the Triple Treat tour. She said she has done the Flanders Field tour for about 2 years; I believe she and Lode rotate. She was very informative, very knowledgeable and had an interesting anecdote for every question we asked. She was emotionally invested in the stories of the soldiers and the war and really brought it alive for us. The only thing I wish had been different was that I wished we had seen the Flanders Field museum in Ieper instead of the Hoogecrater museum.
6. The Straffe Henrick brewery tour was kind of fun, but they have not been brewing beer there since February as a part is broken on one of the machines and the replacement hadn't come in yet (this was early August). The guide was not sure if beer would ever be brewed there again.
Kathleen <email>
S. Brunswick, NJ   USA   Thu 08/05/2004


mosquitos
I'm not sure who in the Netherlands responded to my comments about mosquitos in the Hotel Keizershof. If mosquitos are a known problem in the summer in Amsterdam then hotels without airconditioning should know in advance not to let out rooms that do not have screens on the windows. I hardly think it is the poor renter's responsibility to know in advance that mosquitos may be a problem and run out and spend 30 euros on a mosquito screen. I surely hope that it is not the hotel management who wrote this entry because they should know better and accept responsibility for renting a room that is basically not rentable. Needless to say, I will be contesting the credit card charge for my daughter's last night at the Keizershof and hopefully I will not have to pay 100 euros for a room that could not be used for a night.
Peter
Salem, OR   USA   Thu 08/05/2004


mosquitoes
Mosquitoes are a big problem in Amsterdam during the summer -- as I'm now discovering. And since most of the cheaper hotels are non-air conditioned and tend not to have window screens, if you get really desperate you might want to invest in a "klamboe" (klahm-boo) or mosquito net. Many Dutch people use them, and they're available in department stores, sporting goods shops, etc. starting at about €30.
Peter
Amsterdam,    NL   Wed 08/04/2004


eating in Amsterdam
Highly recommend two restaurants in Amsterdam. Had our last meal of the trip at the Restaurant November on 266 Spuistraat. Lovely outdoor eating area and excellent food. Also highly recommend the Pancake Bakery (in Rick's Amsterdam book). Have great dinner and dessert pancakes. Dessert pancakes taste particularly good after a visit to the Bulldog Coffeeshop.
Peter
Salem, OR   USA   Tue 08/03/2004


picpockets in Amsterdam
Just returned from a European vaction that included 2 days in Amsterdam. I was pickpocketed on the tram the day we arrived. They stole credit cards, my driver's license, 100 euros and my passport. It happened as my family and I were trying to get off a very crowed tram with our lugguge. I had on they type of money belt that clips down inside my pants but they still were able to lift it out. I would recommend that for a group of 3-4 to take a taxi to you hotel from the airport. It only costs about 35 euros. That's not much more than buying tickets for the airport shuttle into central station and then buying for tickets for the tram. Needless to say, I guess I'm going to have to take the type of moneybelt that goes around the waist inside your clothing. They are not as comfortable to wear, especially in the heat, but it is better than getting pickpocketed.
Peter
Salem, OR   USA   Tue 08/03/2004


Hotel Keizershof
Recently stayed at the Hotel Keizershof with my wife, my daughter and my daughter's fiance. There are many nice things to say about this hotel including the hospitality offered by Mary and Hannake, breakfast and clean, comfortable rooms. However, I caution anyone having to stay in the John Wayne room which is on the top floor. My daughter and her fiance woke up on our last night in Amsterdam with mosquitos all around the room - couldn't close the windows because of the heat. They were bitten many times and had to come down to my wife's and my room to sleep on the floor. Also, the linen and towels were not changed in this room on a daily basis. I wrote to Mary about these problems. She said that screens are not allowed on the top floor because of fire regulations and that they only have mosquitos for one month out of the year. She also said that a change of towels and linens were offered by refused. This is not true. So at best, I must give the Hotel Keizershof a mixed review.
Peter
Salem, OR   USA   Tue 08/03/2004


Boring Brussels, but what a trip!
I did a solo trip through Amsterdam, and met up with a friend to visit Bruges and Brussels. I took Rick's guide along with me and it was an invaluable asset. The coverage on Brussels was skimpy, which was a bit frustrating because it was hard for us to figure out things to do there. You should include more coverage of the area around the St. Catherine fish market -- we found a fun little square where we sat outside and drank Belgian beer all afternoon at the Zebra cafe/bar.

In Bruges, we ate at a wonderful restaurant at the Jan Van Eyck square. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of it, but if you're staring at the statue of Jan Van Eyck, facing the canal, it's just off to your right. It was a quite place and only locals, and we had a fabulous meal for about 20 euros each. We did the backpacker thing in Bruges and stayed at Charlie Rocket's, very clean and the small rooms (2-6 beds) were a steal at 14 euros a night.

I stayed at Rick's recommended Shelter Jordan hostel in Amsterdam my last night there, and had a sleepless night. If you're a light sleeper I wouldn't recommend the place, as you have 17 other roommates staying with you. I also went to the Van Gogh Museum, and Rick's guide said admission was only 7.25, but I had to pay 12.50!! I'm not a big art person, so this was a bit of a waste for me. However, the Amsterdam Sex Museum (for 2.50) was a humorous way to spend a rainy afternoon. I had a fantastic trip and it was great to have this book along to explain everything. Thanks!
Meghan
Villa Park, IL   USA   Thu 07/29/2004


Brugge lodging
Staying in Brugge-Gasthof Groenhove was superb b&b-Hans and Angelina gracious hosts. 100-yr old house 10 minute walk from city center sits amid fountains and ponds with great green space, country feel. Bikes on premises. House is comfortable, spacious, rooms well-kept and pleasant. Breakfast served in veranda,or outside on patio, weather permitting.Hospitality outstanding and price is right. It was my favorite place on our trip.
Nancy <email>
Minneapolis, MN   USA   Mon 07/26/2004


Three additions on Brussels
Just returned from Europe, using your excellent book about Amsterdam, Bruge, & Brussels. However, I have two items your book missed about Brussels.

First, there was no mention at all of a wonderful Jewish site, which is the Great Synagogue, built in 1858. It is located on the main street running behind the Centraal train Station, in the upper area. It is a beautiful building, in totally restored condition, with over 500 wooden seats inside, with gorgeous designs on the wall. As there are so few Jewish sites left in Europe. Not sure if it was destroyed in the war and restored (as unfortunately, the information sheet was in French), After so many churches, it was nice to visit a non-Christian site for a change. There was a large memorial wall commemorating the loss of life in 1939-1945 under the Nazi's. As your book made no mention whatsoever of this centrally located, historical building, if we had not stumbled on it, we would have missed it. It certainly is a building you may want to consider adding in future editions.

Second, you made a very brief mention of Belgium independence day on July 21. It actually is their independence from the German occupation in WWII, and there is a huge celebration (on that same main street where the synagogue is), where folks from Belgium come to celebrate. Along the lines of a state fair, there are parades (including, I heard. a visit from the king and queen, military displays, Belgium flags everywhere , craft stands, food stands selling everthing from fresh, hot waffles, to french fries (with several types of mayonaisse), hot dogs, schwarma's, beer, music makers and more. This year they also had a wonderful WWII tanks display, including many US tanks. At 11:00 pm there is a huge fire works display. Apparently, folks from all over Belgium come to Brussels that day to celebrate. While many stores are closed, the main plaza is packed with people, the restaurants and surrounding stores are open, and it is a fun time for all. Even the Mannekin Pis was wearing a WWII uniform, with the Belgium flag draped behind him! Something you may want to add to future editions so that people visiting in Brussels that day won't feel it is a lost day.

Lastly, because it was off season, we stayed at the five star Le Meridian Bruxelles (across the stree from the Centraal station), for less than 90 euros per night. We had booked it on the internet, and everything was all prepared when we arrived for our three day stay. It was a beautiful hotel, perfectly located with the main plaza right behin it and the train station across the street, with recently refurbished floors that offered the best in everything. A great bargain, as the posted signs from peak season indicated a normal price of $450 euros! Food, however, was still prohibitive in the hotel, so our all meals were purchased elsewhere. Thanks for your great books.
Elise Beckerman <email>
Sacramento, CA   USA   Sun 07/25/2004


Brugge
Brugge - Had a good visit to Brugge and would recommend the Hotel ter Reien which overlooks the canal. It was clean, comfortable and the breakfast buffet was very nice. The staff was extremely kind and very helpful. The De Torre restaurant was across the street and was very good. Did not care for the food at the Hobbit restaurant as the ribs were very tough and the pasta dish way too cheesy. My suggestion is to get away from the market as it is very touristy and explore the side streets and canal areas.
G. Walsh <email>
Blythewood, SC   USA   Tue 07/20/2004


Bruges accommodations
We stayed at Kwalito in Bruges, Belgium a little over a week ago. This was recommended in a prior review on Rick's site. The place was AMAZING. It's fairly well located, not far from the center square and Belfry (though a bit of a hike from the train station). The owners are SUPER friendly and helpful. WE got a big fruit basket upon our arrival, a wonderful breakfast, and even some belgian cookies as a take away. The owners also operate a store downstairs, which makes it super convenient. This was a really charming place to stay. Nice to have a whole kitchenette, tea kettle, refrigerator (stocked with water and juice) etc. as well. Two of us stayed for about 70 euros, which was a great value. I fully recommend this place!
Rachel Fleet <email>
Oakland, CA   USA   Sun 07/04/2004


hotels in Brussels, Bruges, and Amsterdam
My brother and I just got back from a trip to Brussels, Bruges, and Amsterdam. We literally let Rick be our guide for places to stay and almost everywhere we ate (including the chocolate shops!). We were especially pleased with our accomodations in each of the three cities.

In Brussels we stayed at the Mozart Hotel where the decor is so over-the-top it provided no end of amusement for us. It was like living in a jewelry box full of gold and vividly colored gems--wonderful! The service was great and the staff was warm and friendly. Even though we stayed in the fourth floor 'garret' (wow, what a climb), this hotel really made an impression on us.

So did Paul and Roos Gheeraert's B & B in Bruges which is nicely located about a three-minute walk from the main square. The room was huge and had a bright Scandanavian feel. The breakfast was wonderful--lots of choices complete with yummy croissants and fresh squeezed OJ. The house is so elegant with a back yard to die for! It was an incredible bargain, too, with a double at only 55 Euros a night.

The last place we stayed was the Hotel Keizerhof in Amsterdam. Mary, the owner, is such a sweetheart. Cute room and the best breakfast on our trip. Her omelets were scrumptious. Our charming room overlooked Mary's beautiful English garden, her pride and joy. Thank you, Rick, and all the wonderful hotel and B & B folks we met on our fabulous trip this summer!
Joanna Schultz <email>
Ann Arbor, MI   USA   Thu 07/01/2004


Eating in Haarlem
Rick was right on with his recommendation of De Buren restaurant. The food was great, the menu entertaining, and the owner and his wife are incredibly welcoming. Do visit!
Will <email>
Vancouver, WA   USA   Mon 06/21/2004


Great 1-day Amsterdam Itinerary
My friend and I recently followed Rick Steves' one-day Amsterdam itinerary when we spent two nights and a day here, and it worked out wonderfully. His recommendations are right on the money. At first glance I thought his itinerary might be overly ambitious for me, but it wasn't. We had a super day and saw tons of great stuff (the Rijksmuseum, the Beginhof, etc.). The only things we did differently were to add the Hortus Botanicus (botanical gardens) to the itinerary during the afternoon, and wait till evening to visit the Anne Frank House (it's open till 9:00pm in summer) after an early dinner instead of going through the Red Light District.

We ate at three restaurants/cafes he recommends and they were all so good. De Reiger in the Jordaan area had great food, service with a big smile, and a casual atmosphere with a dark wood bar and candlelight. At Vertigo Cafe in Vondelpark I had the best apple tart I've ever had, not to mention a beautiful view of the park from our outdoor table, and we thoroughly enjoyed our first Rijsttafel Indonesian dinner at Taman Sari - what a treat for the tastebuds that was! The Toren Hotel where we stayed was a bit of a splurge for me, but it was sooooooo nice! Right on the very pleasant Kaizersgracht Canal. A great experience all around.
Suzanne <email>
Seattle, WA   USA   Mon 06/21/2004


Brugge B&B
On our recent trip, we stayed at the Verdi Brugge Tea Room (a B&B). The owners "went the extra mile" to be helpful and make us feel welcome. The soothing classical music during dinner was a pleasant surprise. It is located mere steps from the center of the City. These folks commitment to each and every customer was very evident. I recommend them without exception and we plan to stay there should we be able to return to this beautiful city. Our stay was delightful.
Richard & Deanna Hill
Knoxville, tn   USA   Sun 06/06/2004


Bistro de Bekoring
We went to Bistro de Bekoring then discovered it was in the book. The guide book has an error for when it is actually open, it is open for lunch on sundays, just not for dinner. Anyway, i highly reccommend. We were taking one of the ghent/bruges guided tours. The guide was so aweful & it was cold & rainy so we ditched the guide in bruges & went into the first nice cafe we could find. Perfect, great food, good atmosphere & warm and friendly.
Alex Colburn
Renton, WA   USA   Wed 06/02/2004


Bruges Restaurants
Maggie at our B&B suggested we try the restaurant of her friend Sonia. We did and were glad for the experience. Willemijn Restaurant is on Gentpoortstraat 51 on the south side of Bruges right near the gate. Lunch was a delicious soup, meatloaf and a pile of green beans. Like good home cooking. Very nice. The price was around 18 euros for two "menu de jour" including a beer and wine. After lunch we took the long route around the edge of the city to view the windmills and walk along the canal.

We also stopped at Tom's Diner the other night and the food was very good (though not fantastic), the service great and the presentation sensational. A nice place (but expect to drop a few more euros than you might elsewhere). There's also an Italian restaurant just off the Jan Van Eckplein square that has a good selection and very reasonable prices. On the whole, once you get away from the touristy main squares in Bruges, we've had very good luck with the restaurants. The menus are fun to browse and the prices not outrageous.
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA   USA   Wed 05/26/2004


Bruges French Fries
I asked at the tourist office on Burg Square in Bruges, "Where can I get the best french fries?" The guy behind the desk didn't pause, but marked my map - "Boodje" on Langstraat near the intersection with Kwekersstraat (I love the names of these streets!) on the southeast side of Bruges. We wandered down there and found a great little neighborhood deli. The french fries were excellent and we ended up ordering a couple large orders and beers to accompany. And we sampled 4 of the different sauces. While we ate our fries the neighborhood folks came in and ordered their dinners - fries, croquets, spaghetti and sauce, etc. (all to take home for dinner). It was a fun half hour sitting and watching the local action.
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA   USA   Wed 05/26/2004


Bruges B&B - Royal Stewart
We're staying at the Royal Stewart B&B (maybe in Rick's 2004 book?) in Bruges at 27 Genthof (bus 4 or 8 from the station - get off at Jan Van Eyckplein). It's a great place. The owner, Maggie, is from Scotland and has an antique shop downstairs. As you can imagine, the rooms are all filled with antiques and beautifully set up. And the neighborhood is very quiet and just a few minutes from the main squares. 57 euros a night for 2 people. It's been the best stop for us during our monthlong tour. - Jack and Paula
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA   USA   Wed 05/26/2004


Haarlem beats Amsterdam
Bullseye, Rick! If you want to see quaint neighborhoods, skip Amsterdam and do Haarlem, Netherlands. Cobblestone streets, old architecture, canals, historic church, museums, food, "charming R.L.D.". The book was right on. Hotel: stayed at the Amadeaus for 4 days. Free breakfast every day is ham slices, cheese slices, melba toast, juice, coffee. Gets a little boring after two days. Also, don't expect round-the-clock concierge service. The front desk shuts down in the early evening. Ask for their city map at the front desk. Stay away from Amsterdam on Queensday (a 10 minute walk will take 3 hours because the crowds are so thick) AND the day after (litter so thick you couldn't see the cobblestones in the street -- must have been SOME party). I thought I read in Rick's books not to dress down in Europe -- you'd stand out. Not true, IMHO. Thanks, Rick.
Mike
Naperville, IL   USA   Sat 05/22/2004


Amsterdam
I went to Amsterdam for 3 days in March. I stayed at Hotel Brouwer near Jordaan area. So quiet and pretty. Room slanted towards canal but expected this. Unfortunately the bikes made a lot racked on the cobblestones. You have a key to sidedoor and room and good elevator. I am not vegetarian but loved the Vegetarian restaurant De Bolhoed which was packed on a monday night so they asked a woman who was from Belgium to share her table and we talked and had a great time. Also ate at Cafe Restaurast de Reiger, Long Pura Indonesien( major yum!) great pubs everywher and 2 on Singel canal were awesome. Also went Diamond shopping at Amstel Diamonds ( flyer in hotel). had a great time walking and in Van Gogh museum in my second trip to Amsterdam
Carolyn
naples,    Italy   Thu 05/20/2004


Haarlem tips
We just returned from our trip which ended with a stay in Haarlem - a great choice! Thanks Rick. We found it relaxed and very easy to access Amsterdam from (but spent more time in Haarlem!).

Anyway, if you are planning to stay in Haarlem make sure to include a Saturday as the Grote Kerk square (and side streets)fills with a fun market from about 9am to 5pm sharp. Just about the entire town comes out and it's a cool experience.

Also, if you are going between Haarlem and the airport, there's a great express-style bus (#300) that runs from Haarlem Central Train Station directly to Schipol. It costs 7 strips one-way, and runs about every 15min even on weekends. It also stops right in front of the V&D dept store which is closer to Grote Kerk. It's easier than rail because there isn't a direct train from Haarlem (you have to change).

One other thing; rent bikes! It's very easy & fun!
Ron
Woodinville, Wa   USA   Sat 05/15/2004


Carnegie Cottage between Arnhem & Apeldoorn
We stayed in a terrific little hotel called the Carnegie Cottage located in Otterlo. While there we visited Het Lo Palace, the National Park de Hoge with the Kroller Muller Museum and the hunting lodge and the free white bikes, and the Open Air Museum in Arnhem. Our rooms were truly spacious and delightfully decorated. We were right on the edge of the park and could walk right in. This was a nice quiet respite from the hustle & bustle of Amsterdam.
Leonard Fabian
Oregon, WI   USA   Fri 05/14/2004


brussels and brugge
went on a holiday weekend and there was a huge stage in the grand place in Brussels. The old men of yesteryears are rolling in their graves! what a terrble way to ruin the only place I wanted to enjoy there.there was broken glass all over the streets Get over the frites they are the same as here.dont stay at the hotel Mozart unless you want to get into political disussions on Bush and certain ethnic groups etc. Brugge was a delight.Another stage on the square in Brugge.What are they thinking? Rent a bike it is a the only way to go!!! ride to Damme for a toile-like views.guy at the station tried to rip us off for the already paid supplement on the Thaylis.Watch out
greg
fl   USA   Wed 05/12/2004


Bruges
Just returned from a first trip to Bruges (and Paris & London). Taking the Eurostar from London to Brussels was very easy but when we arrived at the Brussels train station there was NO mention of Bruges train on the board of arrivals and departures. We panicked for a few minutes and then found someone that told us to look for the the connection to Knokke. Sure enough, when you get to the actual platform for Knokke, it says Bruges, but not down in the main terminal! If you come to Brussels on Eurostar of Thalys your connecting train to anywhere in Belgium is free.

We stayed at the Absoluut Verhulst B&B and would recommend it HIGHLY! Benno & Frieda were extremely gracious, thoughtful hosts. The breakfast was truly amazing. Since our second day was cold and rainy, we enjoyed curling up with a good book and enjoying the B&B. A much better value than London.

We walked all over and saw the major sites, windmills, canals, churches, the Burg & Markt Square. It was a nice, slower pace break between London and Paris, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

I had read that there weren't very many ATM's in Bruges, but we found several and had no problems. There is one right next to the Post Office on the Markt Square.

Due to very cold, rainy weather, we did not ride the canal or rent bikes, but it was still a great experience.

We ate at the Hobbit restaurant--great all you can eat ribs and salad for 13 euros. (Not the messy barbecue ribs we are used to in the US--but good flavor). Evidentally you cannot order tap water in Bruges so drinks were expensive. Dumon chocolates was excellent and we bought an 8.50 euro box to take with us. Beautifully made and great taste! We enjoyed watching the lace makers and their incredible patience.
J Abbott
Siloam Springs, AR   USA   Wed 05/12/2004


Just Desserts
Generally speaking, it is never proper to request only dessert in a restaurant. You should look for a more casual café or brasserie type of establishment. Restaurants expect diners to order full meals.
Al
  USA   Tue 05/11/2004


"Dessert only" sometimes a no-no in Bruges
My husband and I were vacationing in Bruges (my second time there). On our third night we had a lovely dinner but were too full for dessert. On the long walk back to our hotel in the unusually freezing April weather we got our appetites back and decided to stop for dessert. We passed a restaurant that we never went to before but was recommended by our hotel staff. It was an hour before closing time and the restaurant was half empty so we decided to go in for dessert, coffee and possibly a drink. There were some great sounding desserts on the menu posted out front so we walked inside. A gracious woman (speaking perfect English) started to show us to a table and reached for menus. I said "we'd just like to have dessert, please" At that her demeanor changed and she started shouting at us "Dessert?!! You want dessert?!! This is restaurant - a RESTAURANT!!!!" We were embarrassed as she and a gentleman literally walked us to the door and slammed it behind us like we were some rifraff. To this day I have not been able to see any mention of this faux pas in a guidebook and am left really wondering.............(we were too embarrassed to remember the name of the restaurant)
k
NY, NY   USA   Tue 05/11/2004


Bruges, Belgium - Restaurant
There is a very good restaurant in Bruges to check out. It's the Brasserie Erasmus at Wollestraat 35. They have a great waterzooi(fish stew)and a very good selection of beer.
Robert MacNamara
Waltham, MA   USA   Sat 05/08/2004


Amsterdam & Brugge
Amsterdam: Our 8 days in mid-April were wonderful, thanks to Rick's advice on services and sites to see. Our favorite a little cafe for supper and a great place to sit outdoors by a canal was Spanjer & van Twist. Walk along the canal away from the Westerkirk (church), past the Ann Frank House. Less than 2 minutes walking will take you to a small bridge where two canals meet. From the bridge, you can see the cafe on your right (marked by a green round sign) serving outdoor tables located at the bridge. The owner (Carlos) and staff were very helpful in describing the day's menu, as well as suggesting beers to sip while enjoying the sunset. Suppers were excellent. Four of our evenings began here, watching tour boats and other craft maneuver into the small canal. We followed with leisurely walks around the Jordaan area. Photo hint: The bridge and canal lights come on at dusk. For 10 - 15 minutes there is still enough light in the sky to shoot great postcard shots. Later, the buildings, boats, etc. will be less visible in your in photos.

The Van Onna Hotel was clean and quite (no TV or phone in room) with very nice staff. We recommend for price and location in the Jordaan. The only slight negative was the lack of variety in breakfasts (same each day).

Viewing the city from the Westerkirk tower is well worth the effort, but groups were limited to only 5 visitors each half hour. Tickets could not be reserved or purchased ahead of time, so a wait in line was required. Formerly, group size was 25 people. If this policy remains in place, only 75 people per day will climb the tower.

We walked past the Ann Frank House many times, seeing long lines, tour bus crowds, etc. Definitely, visit late in the day when most tourists have moved on. We walked right in on Saturday evening and were almost alone in our quite walk through the site.

Rick's day-tripping suggestions by train or bus were very easy to follow. English is widely spoken and everyone seems very helpful and friendly. The Alkmaar cheese market (Fridays) was very crowded (hundreds of tourists), while Zaanse Schans, Volendam and Marken were touristy, but hey, we're tourists! All were fun to see. Our "Don't miss" for April was Keukenhof Gardens which was in full bloom. Took train to Leiden and bought Bus/Keukenhof ticket outside train station.

Brugge: Thanks to Rick, we stayed in the Debruyne B & B, and highly recommend it. Marie- Rose and Ronny were terrific hosts, our room was large, as was the bathroom, and the neighborhood is very quite. Each morning, Marie-R's trip to a bakery and grocery resulted in our enjoying a first-rate breakfast with many choices. They recommended the nearby Tom's Diner for supper; and we concur. It is a small candle-lite restaurant serving gourmet meals. Another "Don't miss" in Brugge was renting bicycles to ride along the canal to Damme and beyond. Even if you've not been on a bike in years, do take this easy trip. Ride on the right side of the canal for the best view. There are only a few ATM's in Brugge. The one on the Market Square is easily found and seems to be constantly busy (line of 5 or more people). When you face the Bell Tower on the square, look to your left for a "De Post" sign. The ATM is located there.

A nice afternoon beer stop is the Straffe Hendrik Brewery. The tour of the facility is interesting, but not required. Just go in and order a brew (2 euros) to be enjoyed in their restaurant or patio.

Thanks to all who post on Rick's website. We have used your suggestions in France and Italy, and now the Netherlands and Belgium. Best source on info on the Internet.
Dave
Springfield, IL   USA   Thu 05/06/2004


Amsterdam Hotel Rho
Two daughters, 22 & 16, and myself visited Amsterdam March 9-16, 2004. Of the 5 books we purchased, Rick Steves book was most used, and we did 'take it along'! Invaluable! This was my second trip after many years, and after staying near the Van Gogh museum the first time, I looked for a hotel in the Dam square area -- and found Hotel Rho. What a super hotel! We had a special requirement of needing a triple room, not available everywhere. We were given a very reasonable rate. The rooms were tidy, quiet, and the breakfast was a huge buffet of yogurt, eggs, bacon, breads, cheeses, meats, cereals, fresh squeezed orange juice, and all the 'fixins'. We ate a hearty breakfast and were satisfied until dinner late afternoon!

Hotel Rho is on Nes just steps (literally, about 15') off Dam square. Nearby were the Royal Palace, Kalverstraat, Trams, Train station, Red Light District (gotta see it once), and all the museums just a short walk or a tram ride away. The desk clerks were so helpful. Mostly Europeans were staying here. We took a side trip to Haarlem, and wished we had stayed there 1-2 nights. What a beautiful, slow paced little town with great shopping, VERY reasonable eating places, and friendly people. Read incessently before your trip -- you will never regret preparing well. Thank you for the encouragement Rick! Linda, Tracy & Fawn Eagle Lake, MN
Linda, Tracy & Fawn
Eagle Lake, MN   USA   Mon 04/26/2004


Great Hotel in Amsterdam - Well Priced, Great Location
My family and I wanted to stay in Amsterdam with only a Haarlem budget, and finding a room for four happened to be a challenge. I stumbled upon Hotel Piet Hein on line and did some research. It seemed nice, reasonable, and in a good location. The site had photos, but I've learned that these could be greatly exaggerated. Bottom line: we were very pleased. Hotel is behind PC Hoofstraat (very fancy shopping street), faces Vondelpark, and is no more than five minutes from the Leidseplein area. The hotel's website is www.hotelpiethein.com. Also, in the Leidseplein a great ice cream and dessert place is Australian. Buy some chocolates there - yum!!!
Alan Sheptin
New York, NY   USA   Mon 04/26/2004


Bruges,Belgium
Bruges is a great city to visit. The B+B VanNevel was the best place that I stayed. It's a superb value. It's in Rick's guide. A bicycle ride to Damme on a good day is a must. As far as negative comments, avoid at all costs the Dell' Arte Tea Room Restaurant on Vlamingstraat. The manager is surly and his wait-staff is almost as arrogant. They treat people with disdain. Don't go in to check the specials on the chalk board half-way back in the restaurant. The manager may just decide to mock you as he talks with his staff! This place isn't in Rick's guide, and I hope it's never included.
Bob Ford
Boston, MA   USA   Sat 04/24/2004


Bruges
The Quasimondo bike tour to Damme was advertised at 12 euros with the RS book (normally 18 Euros). That's incorrect. The guy wanted 15 and was irritated with Rick that the price in the book was wrong. It was a great bike ride with a knowledgable guide from Belgium. Well worth taking. Brugges was wonderful, two full days of sightseeing, a third would be nice if you have lots of time. Two great art museums, a Michelangelo in the church, a nice monestary and pretty canals with guided tours. We stayed at the Dieltens Bed and Breakfast. Nice place, within short walking distance to everything (5 min walk). It was quiet there as well. Good breakfast, lots of carbs, and only served for one hour (8:30 to 9:30). If you wanted breakfast before or after this you were out of luck. Pleasant hosts. Good coffee, they speak at least 3 different languages fluently. No clean towels every day, and the cleaning lady who came into the room rearranged the towels, so we did not know whose towel this is. Those are minor negatives. Comfortable beds.

This is our 4th trip using RS books. I prefer to travel less, stay in each place longer and really enjoy it. We spent a few days in Brussels as well. Good times there. Radisson SAS gave a excellent weekend rate, with fabulous breakfast.
Greta Larsson
Milwaukee, WI   USA   Fri 04/23/2004


highlights in Bruges
Just wanted to offer a third (or more) positive review for the Marieke Bed and Breakfast (http://users.belgacom.net/marieke. Just two rooms, so you will have to be early or lucky to stay there. Also, the Brugges bike tour with Quasimundo Tours (http://www.quasimundo.com) was great. Very easy cycling (even with a toddler on the back of one bike), fun guide, nice info., pretty route. In fact, renting a bicycle for longer would have been a very fun way to get around town. The belfry tower is quite a climb, but there are three resting points along the way.
Karen <email>
Belgium now,    USA   Fri 04/23/2004


Amsterdam Highlights
I just got back from a fabulous extended weekend in Amsterdam. Rick's recommended sites didn't disappoint. Don't miss the Resistance Museum or the Van Gogh Museum. Delft is a good side-trip. Do the self-guided tour of the factory rather than wait for the guided tour. The licensed Royal Delft shops all sell at MSRP (as does the factory, except for "seconds"), so shop based on selection. Ask the factory store how to detect a "second." Boom Chicago is very funny and well worth it. I saw a sneak preview of their latest show "Why Aren't You Happy" (audience participation required - you have been warned). Their magazine seems to be where Rick gets much of his info about Amsterdam. Finally, read the guidebook before you go to Haarlem. Pretty much the whole place is closed on Mondays. More is open in Amsterdam.
KPO'M
  UK   04/12/04


Hotel Pacific, Brussels
Hotel Pacific in Brussels will close in May 2004 per Paul, the current lease holder. We stayed there in Mar 04. We had a marvelous time in Brussels, in many ways due to his kind assistance and recommendations.
Robert Walk
Springfield, VA   USA   04/06/04


Belgium
We visited Brussels and Bruges in late February. In Brussels we stayed at www.brusselsbedandbreakfast-not in Rick's book, no breakfast, just coffee, but well situated in the heart of the city near the Central train station. Glad we saw Brussels, but saw everything we wanted in 1 day/1 night. We stayed at Absolut Verhulst in Bruges for 4 nights, and it was the best! We got a good price on the suite, and Frieda and Benno were delightful hosts. Their breakfasts were wonderful and filled us up until mid-afternoon. Their b/b is well situated for easy walking assess to both squares. Benno even drove us to the train station when our taxi got delayed in traffic! We used Rick's book and tried 4 different places for dinners while there, and all hit the mark in terms of price and taste. The city was much busier on the weekend than during the week in late February, but we enjoyed no lines anywhere. There is plenty to see and do in Bruges. We had planned to do the Quasimodo "Triple Treat" tour on Monday when many stores/museums are closed. Unfortunately they had to cancel that morning when we were the only ones signed up. They would have taken just the two of us, but the establishments wouldn't open without four people. Don't overlook Belgium-good food, sights, and friendly people.
S Norton
Kirkland, WA   USA   03/21/04


Amsterdam and Hotel Keizershof
We had an excellent trip for 5 nights in Amsterdam between february 9th and 14th, 2004. Rick's amsterdam, bruges and belgium book was very helpful. We enjoyed our stay at Hotel Keizershof; location on Keizersgracht was very convenient. We were given pleasant attention by owners Mary (mom) DeVries and her daughter Hanneke. Rooms were cute and clean and named after classic Hollywood stars. Big breakfast daily in large family room. Cereal, toast, fruit, milk, cheese, hot rolls, coffee, tea, juice, cookies ...... more than enough to sustain you! omelets as an optional tasty breakfast treat too. Hanneke was nice to recommend to to us to go to visit Haarlem and Zaanse Schaans and the Jordaan as well as to get a museum pass. Mary was nice to direct us to the nearby bank for Atm and money exchange and the nearby laundry to wash clothes.

We will definitely stay at Hotel Keizershof when we go back to amsterdam next year! ...we had nice meals at Sama Sebo (indonesian rice table) not far from the Rijksmuseum and at the Pancake Bakery located at Prinsengracht 191, same road that Anne Frank house is on. Also very enjoyable walking thru the albert cuyp street market; taking a canal boat ride; walking thru the floating flower market; and seeing a comedy show at Boom Chicago on Leidseplein. Be sure to get directions from Mary or Hanneke at Hotel Keizershof to get to Jolly Hotel Carlton for airport shuttle. only takes 5 or 6 minutes to walk from Keizershof to Jolly Hotel. one way ticket cost 10 euro per person. Jolly hotel has schedules for the shuttle in their lobby and you can buy tickets at the main hotel desk. easier than using the tram or bus or paying cab prices to get back to the airport with all your bags. Happy Travels :-)
Peter and Malinda Heeran <email>
Albany, NY   USA   03/17/04


Flying Pig Hostel -- AWFUL!
Hello, all. I just wanted to post this information on Amsterdam. I visited about 2-1/2 years ago and made the BIG MISTAKE of staying at the Flying Pig Hostel. Dumpy, dirty, and I had the privilege of having a mouse in my suitcase on the second night. ABSOLUTELY AWFUL! The comments re: smoking have been covered by others -- I'm just another person who enjoyed a few days of Real freedom in Amsterdam. Peace and (like Rick says) Keep Traveling! Bonnie, Ukiah, CA (northern CA)
Bonnie
Ukiah, CA   USA   03/15/04


Hotel Keizershof
Just wanted to report that we had a good experience at the Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam as opposed to the report from another traveller "down the page." Yes, the spiral stairs are steep and challenging, but I am pretty sure that the RS Amsterdam book points that fact out (gave my copy away so I can't confirm it). For the centralized and quiet canal location, we thought the price was excellent, and I would not describe the condition as rundown at all. Great breakfast served in the garden. I would definitely stay here again.
john russell <email>
charlottesville, va   USA   03/08/04


Hotel un-Welcome
They were doing work on the stairs, so that made each trip up to our room interesting. They ran out of bath towels and could only provide hand towels. The restaaurant was closed. They charged us for an extra day after we checked out. Other than that we really enjoyed it, well, except for the mountain of garbage always at the front door.
Tom Tapscott <email>
Durham, NC   USA   02/27/04


Amsterdam
We followed Rick's advice on finding an Indonesian restraurant in Amsterdam--it was excellent--had the traditional "Ristofel". One of Rick's suggested hotel was a big disappointment--cannot recomment the Keiserhoff there. Steep spiral staircase to reach the third floor. A bit overpriced and run down as well. When we checked out, to our dismay, the room cost was higher than the original agreement. We made copies but this was packed away and we were in a rush to catch a train to Paris. From this experience we now always have copies at hand to present in case of such a dispute over price.
Susan <email>
Atl, Ga   USA   02/19/04


Bruges
W e are just back from 4 nights in Bruges. Stayed at Dieltiens B&B and we were very pleased. Annemie and Koen were very nice hosts. Our room had windows to open for fresh air and old hardwood floors plus a small bathroom, hairdryer, alarm clock and coffeemaker. Very nice. We received a more than adequate breakfast to sustain us. We asked for food suggestions and Annemie took the time to give us a local map which she marked with about 7 places for lunch or dinner.

Don't miss out on Bistro de Bekoring for a nice dinner splurge. The Hobbit was also worth it for their humorous menu and tasty spareribs. Also not to be missed are 't brugs Beertje, de Garre, and the Straffe Hendrik tour. The 5 museums for 15 euros is a budget must for visting Rick's recommended sights. The Chocolate Line and Dumon chocolate shops were both worth it for their different chocolates and different atmospheres.

Bruges was a nice town to just stroll and peek around. Many parts had a hidden feel to them on those great cobblestone streets. That was likely helped because we were there off season. We walked to the windmills by the moat that Rick mentions and had the area to ourselves early on a Sunday morning. It was easy to enjoy outselves in Bruges and so easy to get around. It's a very walkable town. Iinternet cafe right across from church of our lady entrance was reasonable for both coffee and beer while you check your email. Go and enjoy Bruges.
Peter & Malinda Heeran <email>
Albany, NYy   USA   02/18/04


Hotel Brouwer (Amsterdam)
I stayed at Hotel Brouwer for five days in December 03 and had a wonderful time. I had a single room w/ private bath; everything was clean, cozy, and comfortable (unlike the German hotels I stayed at later in my trip, which were also Rick's recommendations). The proprietor, Colleen, was extremely gracious and helpful through my entire stay. She even found me a box and helped me pack up a parcel to send back to the US on my last day there (while handling 8+ other people during the breakfast rush). I would definitely stay there again.
Christine <email>
Sunnyvale, CA   USA   01/28/04


Delft and other Dutch gems
When traveling in Holland be sure to consider Delft. It is only an hour away from Amsterdam by train. It is a quiet, lovely town with many small canals and bridges, great food, and very friendly people. I was so glad that we stayed there rather than in larger towns like Amsterdam. I highly recommend Hotel de Kok - great, family run Hotel right by the train station (rooms to the back do get train noise). I also recommend a visit to Gouda. Great cheese, yes, and also beautiful church windows from 1500's that have survived to this day. Also one of the last clay pipe-makers in Holland has a shop with interesting pottery - well worth a visit. For a real feel of Holland don't leave out these little gems!
Craig Sale <email>
Schaumburg, IL   USA   01/03/04


Brussels
We recently spent several days in Brussels and stayed at the Hotel Welcome. There were several of us and each room was a lot of fun to see. Due to complications we had to change rooms once so my wife and I had the pleasure of enjoying two of the rooms. The owneres were very nice and quite helpful in many ways and would encourage all to stay there.
Danny Agee <email>
McDonough, ga   USA   12/29/03


Luxembourg
Please add Luxembourg into your guidebook. We spent 3 nights there in August 2003 and loved it! We stayed at the Hotel Francais in Place de Arms. It was wonderful! Luxembourg is very metropolitan, with great museums. We took a day trip to see the many chateaus just outside the city and took a day trip to Verdun in France.
Ashley
Oldsmar, FL   USA   12/25/03


Benelux hotels
I loved the Hotel Welcome in Brussels, but the Japan room is not for those who dislike stairs. Thanks to those who recommended the Marieke B&B (http://users.belgacom.net/marieke/) -- Trees and her husband really looked after me, and the restaurants round the corner were good. In Delft I can recommend the Bridges House Hotel (http://www.bridges-house.nl/eng/1.htm) -- great canal-side location, friendly owner, comfortable beds and wonderful big bath tubs to thaw out in. Delft has a big Saturday flea market (get up early Sunday to take pictures) and is convenient for visiting Rotterdam. I stayed at the Prinsenhof in Amsterdam -- I couldn't get a room at the Brouwer even booking two months ahead. Good location: tram stop steps away and I found a good Indonesian restaurant (the Tuju Maret) round the corner.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC   USA   12/21/03


Another vote for Luxembourg
I spent a week in Luxembourg in September and loved it. Luxembourg City may have the most dramatic site of any capital city anywhere -- and don't miss the surprising City History Museum. But the countryside is the real charmer. Recommendations -- any walk in the "Little Switzerland" area; driving the N27 to Esche-sur-Sure; the Bisdorff Hotel in Berdorf (http://www.hotel-bisdorff.lu/) -- wonderful food, quiet location, the demi-pension is a real deal; the Chateaux Beaufort and Vianden. Be aware -- some hotels close one day a week, reserve ahead; a little French or German comes in handy in the countryside; a car is worthwile -- rent the car in Germany (Trier is right on the border) but buy gas in Luxembourg; the Chateaux Bourscheid looks wonderful from a distance, but is less so inside. More details on my website -- http://wilhelmswords.com/faq/index.html -- Loving Luxembourg
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC   USA   12/21/03


Amsterdam Transport

There's a new service in Amsterdam called "Opstapper," which provides an extremely convenient way to travel up and down Prinsengracht. Simply hop on at any point along the route (which goes from Central Station, along Prinsengracht to Waterlooplein), pay the standard fare (two strippenkaart strips) and you'll be let off anywhere at all along the route. Very convenient for visiting such sights as the Anne Frank house.
Peter
Amsterdam,    Netherlands   12/21/03


Farewell to M. Pauwels & the Hotel Pacific
Rick's books are great! I have planned trips for myself with friends and family, and always turn to Rick first. On a less happy note, we are all losing a great friend and place to stay at the end of this month. The Hotel Pacific in Brussels is closing because M. Paul Pauwels has lost the lease on the building. I spoke with him last month when I was there, and he is naturally very sad about closing.
Linda <email>
TX   USA   12/05/03


Amsterdam, Brussels, Brugge
Recently we spent 8 days in mid-November visiting Amsterdam, Brussels & Brugge. The information and tips from Rick's book as well as at the Graffiti Wall were very helpful.

We purchased 1 month, 5 travel days, 2nd class Benelux rail passes before leaving the USA at www.raileurope.com for $122 USD per pass (plus shipping). We probably didn't save any over what it would have cost to buy point to point tickets after arrival, but the pass was easy and convenient to use, plus it was nice to have that expense out of the way. Traveling by train was pretty easy and efficient; we didn't take the Thalys and didn't have any problems without advance seat reservations.

Checking schedules before hand at the Dutch and Belgian railway websites was very helpful in planning. http://www.ns.nl/domestic/index.cgi and http://www.b-rail.be/E/index.php. Be sure to take note of the final destination, as Brussels and Brugge are often NOT the final destinations. Since we arrived at 9 am, we decided to catch a train right away from the Amsterdam Schiphol airport to Brussels (about 3 hours by rail). Probably should have gone clear to Brugge, another hour, then started working our way back to Amsterdam.

Based on a post on this site, we stayed at the NH Grand Place Arenberg in Brussels, 70 euro per night, double including all taxes. Room rates are normally much higher, we booked the discounted price at this website: http://b2b.ratestogo.com/. It covers numerous European cities, however, you can only make reservations 20 days or less in advance. Excepting that our room was on the small side, we agree with previous comments about this hotel: great location, some nice amenities, skip the expensive hotel breakfast.

A prior post complained about the Belgian/Dutch beer tasting too sweet. My experience was that beer with a high alcohol content (6.5% and up) and their dark, bok (bock) beers did tend to be sweeter tasting than what you usually find in the USA, and much sweeter than a typical British ale or Irish stout. On the other hand, the pilsners and 'blond' beers were not sweet. They are all really good beers, sweet or otherwise, just have to keep tasting and testing to find what you like best!

We recommend Charlotte & Erik's bed and breakfast in Brugge (www.etimmerman.be.tf). It's about a 15 minute walk from the train station, and little out of the core tourist area (which makes it nice and quiet), but still only a 10 minute walk to the market square. The B&B is a newly renovated house (Oct. 2003), for the exclusive use of the guests. It's just across the narrow street from Charlotte & Erik's home. Non-smoking, except in the courtyard. Ground floor has a kitchen, dining table, and small sitting area with a TV and a courtyard. There's also a shared toilet on this level. On the 2nd floor, there are two large rooms that each have an ensuite shower and sink. One room has a queen bed, the other has 2 twins. There is another shared toilet on this floor. On the 3rd floor is a smaller room with doubled bed, but no shower. There aren't any views to speak of from the rooms but that wasn't an issue for us. Our rate was 50 euro/night double including tax and an ample breakfast – coffee/tea, cheese, fresh bread, jams, muesli, yogurt and juice. The whole place is also available to rent for longer stays. For more B&B choices in Brugge, check www.brugge.be/verblijf/en/gastene.htm

We also highly recommend the Amsterdam Lodge B&B, located in the Jordaan area of Amsterdam (www.amsterdamlodge.com), operated by Bas & Anita. It is also a newly renovated flat (June 2003) occupied exclusively by the guests. It is a one flight walk up to the spacious living/dining/kitchen and Ivy room. The Red & Blue rooms are on the 3rd floor. (1st & 2nd floors by European count). We stayed in the Ivy room, 105 euro per night, double, including breakfast and all taxes. That room is somewhat small, but attractively furnished and has a private toilet, sink and shower ensuite. The Red and Blue rooms are quite spacious and equally nicely furnished. The private bathroom for the Red room is not ensuite, but nearby. The Blue room and its huge ensuite bathroom are worth the few extra euros.

Bas and Anita are very friendly and helpful in suggesting restaurants, sightseeing and can give you an excellent city map. There is a computer with free high speed Internet connection available. The premises are non-smoking, but you can smoke in the courtyard. Breakfast consisted of coffee or tea, fresh bread and croissants, jams, peanut butter, muesli and/or sweetened granola, orange juice and boiled egg if desired. As others have mentioned, the Jordaan is the best neighborhood to stay in while visiting Amsterdam – clean, quiet, safe, good eating and drinking and reasonable walking distance to the main attractions.

Julie & Richard <email>
Boulder, CO   USA   11/30/03


Brugge</