Rick Steves' Amsterdam, Bruges & Brussels:
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Brussells Welcome Hotel
My husband and I and another couple recently stayed at the Brussells Welcome Hotel. A great place to stay and the people were just wonderful. So helpful in every way. And so patient in helping us navigate our way around the city.We ate at La Villette, which was wonderful, and La Belle Maraichere, a very nice place. Both are withing walking distance of the hotel.Going to Brussels? Do consider the Brussells Welcome Hotel. It's lots of fun. And you won't find a friendlier bunch of people anywhere.
Jeri Woodward <email>
Seal Beach, Ca, CA USA Tue 05/31/2005
many and new hotel
Hotel Caruso's rooms run for about 50.00 Euros and they also have an attached Italian Restauraunt that has a live piano player every night I have been there. Hotel Amadaeus has internet connetions for lap tops and was totally wonderful for me. Rockies Coffe house in Amsterdam does not roll tobacco with their joints. Its a good deal. Please consider Hotel Caruso as a tour group stop over instead of Hotel Joops. I almost died in Hotel Joops as they put no bath mats down in their bathrooms even after I complained about falling three times. Laying down a towel does not work with the way the bathrooms are arranged. Keep in mind that Hotel Caruos does not have sound proofing walls, but does have vast unused sections that could be transformed into a meeting place for the entire tour bus. This book was awesome, but please list book stores in the resources section that sell more of your books. I have looked all over Haarlem for one of Rick Steves books for Germany as I leave now to bicycle the Rhine River. My moneybelt went missing and it took a week for the US Consulate to give me a new one. Thanks for all the good info. Darlitiawww.ontheroadsoftheworld.com
Darlitia Carlo
USA Mon 05/30/2005
Bruges and Haarlem
Absoluut Verhulst is a must if you are staying in Bruges. We loved it! The breakfast was wonderful a little different each morning and Benno and Frieda are wonderful too.
We also can recommend eating at the Rock Fort (which is around the corner from the B&B). The meal was excellent.
We drove up to Haarlem from Bruges and stayed in Hotel Carillon. The rooms are small and bare and while it was clean and the staff was friendly we would not recommend it to others.
Corrie ten Boom House is a must in Haarlem, and if you are there in the spring (mid-March to mid-May) check out the bulb gardens at Keukenhof www.keukenhof.nl
McNays
Mettweiler, Germany Wed 05/25/2005
CONTRAST B & B in Brugge
We also had a great stay at CONTRAST B&B in Brugge. My husband and I stayed there for two nights in April, 2005.
This B & B is very contemporary with a funky design. It is situated in an ideal location, near the edge of the central tourist district, but still in a quiet area. It is made of three spacious rooms that are located across a garden from the main house. This allowed for more privacy than staying in one’s home.
The breakfast is very nice and along the line that we are accustomed to when staying in European Inns (e.g., pastries, bread, eggs, cheese, cold cuts, yogurt, and cereal).
Dries and Cathy, the owners, were very friendly and helpful. We left our adapter and they offered to have their son meet us in Brussels (as he goes to school there) to return it to us.
If you seek a modern feel with friendly hosts and a great location, Contrast is a very smart choice. We will definitely stay there on our next visit to Brugge!
don & cathy
Potomac Falls, VA USA Tue 05/17/2005
Bruges & Amsterdam
Having returned from Bruges and Amsterdam after many previous trips, we agree with Rick that the place to save money on accomodations is in Bruges. We stayed at Dieltiens B&B 4nights and were sorry to leave. Rooms were clean, comfortable, & roomy and breakfast was excellent for the 60Euro price for a double, & the hosts were gracious and helpful. We'll return!
In Amsterdam, we stayed at Hotel Zandbergen near Vondelpark (not in Rick's book), which appeared recently renovated, had comfortable rooms with modern spotless bathrooms, a great buffet breakfast, free computer/internet access in lobby, excellent hosts (Mr.&Mrs. Vonk), and was worth the 117Euro price for a double (includes a discount for booking on internet & paying in cash).
We experienced no difficulties using ATM card in Bruges, but this was because ours is on VISA network.
Best bargain for dinner in Bruges was the Chicken In on Sint Amandstraat, which serves an excellent 1/2 chicken dinner with a mountain of frites and salad for under 10Euros. In Amsterdam, we enjoyed Rick's recommendation for bargain Indonesian food at Taman Sari, which offered inexpensive rijstafel in a simple setting off the beaten tourist path. Near Hotel Zandbergen is Restaurant Yade City, offering inexpensive & filling Chinese Indonesian meals (also away from tourist paths).
The two basic Belgian food groups, beer & chocolate (just kidding--well, sort of)were superb in Bruges at Straffe Hendrik Brewery and Dumon Chocolates (Madame Dumon is God!)
Jim & Donna <email>
Houston, TX USA Sun 05/15/2005
Brugge
Two things learned from our recent trip to Brugge.
1. The Laundry is located at 51 Ezelstraat, not 51 St. Jacobstraat.
2. The TI is no longer located at Burg Square but is now in the Concertgebouw which is close to the train station. Not sure but I think both the Burg and Train Station TI's have been consolidated into this new location.
We were very pleased with the staff and hospitality of the Hotel Adornes. The free bikes were in better condition that those seen on the street and came in handy several times. We also enjoyed dinner at The Flemish Pot. Already missing the great beer and coffee.
Mel & Debbie <email>
Rosharon, TX USA Wed 05/11/2005
Bruges B&B Contrast
After travelling quite a lot around the world, we decided to stay a little bit more close to home and went for a holiday to Bruges in Belgium. We stayed in a wonderful B&B (contrast) in the middle of historical Bruges. I saw some comments here that were not so positive, well we do not agree. We had a great time at Cathy and Drieses place. The breakfast was wonderful (please do normal you can't expect to have a greasy horrible unhealthy english breakfast all over the world, thank god not, why do you think we are so slim and good looking in the low countries :) And the rooms suited the name of the B&B, contrast!! I thought it was a great name and setup! Thank you very much for the great time! And you dont have to pay the parking fine, we didnt hear about it anymore back in Holland.
Maria <email>
Nijmegen, NL Mon 05/02/2005
Bruges
My husband and I live in Heidelberg and our bookshelf is full of Rick's guides. However as last minute planners we paid the price by not being able to get into a recommended lodging. Should this happen to you never stay at a b&b called Nicky's. Way overpriced, dirty and above a restaurant that stayed open late. A recommended restaurant de Koeste we found to not be affordable. The service was unimpressive-mixing up our tables order, rushed and rude and worst of all not asking the women of our party for their drink order! Our meal at the recommended The Flemish Pot made up for the previous evenings meal.
The Little Pancake House as it is also known as was indeed little so if you don't mind practically rubbing elbows with your neighbors the food was really tasty. We sat in the upstairs and the seats weren't that comfortable but the overall feel was charming. The Straffe Brewery Tour was alright - worth it for the view from the top alone. We liked the beer so much we went back the next day.
I wanted a little bit of authentic lace and was pleased to meet Patrick, the owner of the Little Lace Shop. He was ever so friendly, sharing some family history and providing a helpful description of how to tell good lace from great lace. Even though I only bought a couple of small good pieces that didn't make any difference to his service. Just outside his shop is an excellent photo op as well.
If you bike out to Damme have a coffee and pannekoeken at the Ter Kloeffe -across from the chuch - if you are inside you can sit near the stove where they are being made and warm up. Very friendly and appears to be family run. Bruges has been one of the few cities that even on easter sunday you could find a place to eat in the morning and still purchase your chocolate. One last bit of advice - if you are driving you might find it easier to park your car at the train station for just a few euros and take a taxi to and from your hotel-it saves a lot of anxiety regarding traffic and parking.
Michelle Curtis <email>
Heidelberg, GER Thu 04/28/2005
We stayed at the Hotel Amadeus (p. 194 of 2005 Amsterdam Bruges & Brussels guidebook). The staff was not welcoming, the bathroom smelled (a fan ran hard and long to combat the odor), and it was unbelievably noisy. The noise was not only the construction noise at 7:30 am, but also the walls/floors were so thin that you could hear people walking and using the toilets on the floor above us. On a happier note, we ate at the Black Beauty restaurant in Haarlem which was not only fun, but affordable and delicious. The owner went out of his way to help us and we felt very welcome.
Jean <email>
Vienna, VA USA Wed 04/27/2005
Amsterdam & Bruges
We had precisely 2.5 days for Amsterdam and 2 days for Bruges and the recommended visiting spots within Rick's book proved to be very helpful in deciding and planning.
Here are some key points from our recent experience:
1. The Hotel Shuttle run by Connexxion from Schipol Airport was the best deal, specially if you are flying back from Schipol, since it only costs 11euros/person one-way or 17euros/person with return. Since it is a door-to-door service we were glad that we did not have to lug or wheel our bags over the cobbled stone paths from the Central Station to our hotel.
2. There were quite a few cafes on Damrak (close to the Central Station) that had cheap internet access and specifically cheap international calling cards or cheap per minute service
3. For flower lovers Keukenhof Gardens (off Leiden station) is a must and you should combine Madurodam which is Holland in miniature (1/25th the scale) along the way since it is in the Hague which will be along the way to Leiden
4. Europe seems to be way behind in the usage of credit cards so have plenty of cash, TCs or an ATM card (except in Bruges where cash is it)
5. Bruges was awesome and we stayed at the Setola B&B (recommended in Rick's book) and were very pleased with the large and quiet Lila room. The breakfast was sumptuous and it easily made us skip lunch for an early dinner
6. We highly recommend the bike tour to Damme since it offers a great look of the countryside and a nice bike ride with minimal cobble stones paths. We used the Pink Bear tour (very informative and humorous guide) since it started at a more suitable 10:30 AM rather than 1 PM (which was the timing of the Quasimundo tour)
7. The Heineken Experience tour was very interesting
8. Restaurant Vliegende Schotel (recommended in the book) within the Jordaan area was excellent and we highly recommend it. Plus it is close to the Anne Frank Museum which itself is a must-visit
Hitesh Puri <email>
Plano, TX USA Sun 04/17/2005
Brussels
My wife and I took our first trip to Brussels in March and stayed at the Welcome Hotel recommended in Rick's guide book. A great choice and we had a wonderful time. It was clean, quaint and all the people couldn't have been more accomodating. The location was also very good.
One place we ate at that was not mentioned in the guide book was was La Villette, within walking distance of the Welcome Hotel, and it was a great place to dine. It is small, so make sure you have reservations. The mussels we fantastic.
Jim Jones <email>
Corinth, MS USA Sun 04/17/2005
Accomodations in Bruges
We stayed at the Koen and Annemie Dieltiens' holiday apartment when we visited Bruges over the easter holiday. It was reasonablypriced, beautifully decorated, and very comfortable. Thanks to Rick Steves for suggesting a great service.
K
Trenton, NJ USA Fri 04/15/2005
Bruges and Contrast B&B – both excellent choices
We recently spent a week in Bruges, enjoying both the city and our B&B, Contrast, operated by Dries and Cathy. Not only is Contrast within walking distance to most areas and near bus stop to go to the rail station, but also it is well organized with three spacious rooms at the back of the garden. Our hosts were welcoming, warm and generous, providing whatever we desired for breakfast, putting beautiful fresh daffodils in our room and giving us local information. Bruges is a wonderful place to visit! Maybe next spring again??
ruth and hugh
Kelowna, BC Canada Thu 04/07/2005
Bruges/Brugge Misc.
We were in Bruges/Brugge just one night as we passed from England to the Netherlands.
My most important comment is really a warning. We counted on our ATM cards and didn't carry enough emergency cash. The cards work fine in England and Netherlands, but not in Brugge. None of the cash machines were on the Cirrus network. They seemed to be labeled only for VISA. Very tight on cash, we were surprised at how difficult it is to use a VISA credit card due to minimums and many stores that just won't take them. We ran into this both at afternoon tea and lunch. Neither met the establishment's minimum. The tea room warned us and ignored the minimum in the end. The restaurant didn't warn us and complained as we paid. The place was empty at noon and they prefered to give us grief over taking our credit card. Seems odd to me.
We were on a budget and were satisfied with Hotel 't Keizershof about a block and half from the station. Inexpensive, plain, clean, and polite.
We're not into the jewelry and fashions on the "shopping street" so we spent more time by Minnewater. We got incredible photos, liked the Little Lace Shop Rick recommends, and had a romantic dinner next door at Restaurant Minnewater (not Castle Minnewater). Reasonable and very good 3 course fixed price dinner. It's a charming location away from most tourist areas. We were there in March. We may have enjoyed off-season prices, but I think 18 Euros for each of us was reasonable for a tourist destination (before drinks).
Of course, St. John's hospital was a must see. Great art and unbelievable manuscripts.
Finally, Dumon's Chocolate recommended by Rick - great pick. We brought back lots of boxes as presents. Alas, we neglected ourselves.
I enjoyed Brugge and was glad to finally visit there, but it wasn't my favorite city of the vacation.
Brien <email>
Saratoga Springs, NY USA Mon 04/04/2005
Great Restaurant in Amsterdam
Found a great little family restaurant in Amsterdam on the edge of the Jordaan. Restaurant 't Zwaantje is a Dutch locals place a few doors off the PrinzenGracht two blocks from Westekirk at Berenstraat 12. Great food at very reasonable prices, recommended by our favorite bartender who eats there nightly.
Dave Butler <email>
Laguna Beach, CA USA Fri 03/25/2005
Choice little B&B in Bruges
A friend and I stayed at the B&B Marieke in Bruges .The owners Willie and Trees made us feel right at home in their clean little home. The rooms are spotless and the Marieke is witin walking distance to everything.Suggest you take a good map to avoid the Medieval dejavus, we walked down the same street 4 times from 4 different directions and still didnt know it.Suggest the Brewery tour, and the Museums. Also, suggest several Whit Beers at the Beer Garden across from the Fish Market,just sit back and enjoy the sites, mix with the locals and be very thankful. Ah Belgium...
Jeff Tardiff <email>
Cardiff by the Sea, ca USA Sun 03/13/2005
bed and breakfast aspasia bruges
We had great time in bruges BandB aspasia. They rent only one room ...The room was in art deco-style. We spend a whole week and also went ot Ghent, Brussels Coast...Easy to do this from the guesthouse with public transport.They have a self-made website www.aspasia.be.
Sivester Guiver <email>
lochness , UK Tue 03/08/2005
Great Belgian Hotels
I meant to say that Noga Hotel is in Brussels, rather than Belgium. Getting my "B"s mixed up. Sorry.
Rick Manyik
Chicago, IL USA Wed 03/02/2005
Great Belgian Hotels
We were just in Belgium and wanted to pass along some very favorable comments about 2 Rick Steves recommended hotels. Both of them were very clean, with great breakfasts, wonderful hosts, and on quiet side streets. The first is in Brugges, Hotel Botaniek, www.botaniek.be. The second hotel is in Belgium, Noga Hotel, www.nogahotel.com.
Rick Manyik <email>
Chicago, IL USA Sun 02/27/2005
Warning: Euro change rip-offs in Paris
Hi:
I haven't seen this as a warning in your materials, but maybe I missed it.
When we visited France, mainly in Paris, we (as Americans) started wondering why we were getting quarters in our pockets from change. We finally figured it out when we realized that the Euro dollar coin is the same size as the American quarter, and so, for our change we were being given quarters instead of euro dollar coins. I finally caught on after we bought tickets at a Metro station and realized that the cashier had done this...what a bundle she must be making!
When we visited Italy and Switzerland we didn't notice this happening but, of course, we were checking our change by then. Unfortunately, I doubt this scam occurs only in France.
Sincerely, Noel Farmer
Noel Farmer <email>
New York, NY USA Thu 02/17/2005
Belgium the Week After Christmas
My wife and I spent the week after Christmas in Belgium. We stayed at the Marriott Brussels, an excellent 4+ star property that was offering incredible rates for that week (worked out to be about 100 euros/night).We both agreed we had never been so infused with Christmas spirit as we were in Belgium. The Grand Place was wondefully decorated and lit, the manger scene had live animals, and every evening there was a light/music show and numerous carolers. It was truly a magical experience.Brussels has some of the best museums in Europe as well as a wonderful assortment of "street food" - chocolates, waffles, and fries. The Christmas market was still going strong so every evening we would stroll the streets by the Grand Place, seeking bargains and that special bottle of wine.We took a short one-hour train trip to Bruges and spent yet another delightful day in that city.We purchased other guide books (Fodors and Frommers) but quickly discarded them in favor of Rick's. This was 5th our trip to Europe since 1998 (our 2d this year). We were married in Venice - a whole other story - in 1998 and return as often as possible.For interested travellers, Belgium the week after Christmas is a true back door with great prices, few tourists, and a wonderful Christmas spirit.
Jim Stover <email>
Dallas, TX USA Tue 02/15/2005
Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam
I am finally writing in to tell everyone that when in Amsterdam they absolutely MUST stay at Hotel Keizershof! I just recently returned from a two month trip to Europe and some of my fondest memories are from Hotel Keizershof. An amazing, informative, hilarious, kind, and energetic staff, an adorable dog, a beautiful garden, a perfect location, the largest and most satisfying breakfast ever (they make you omlettes made with fresh tomatoes from their garden! plus they regularly have fresh fruit salads with berries which we all know is unheard of in budget hotels in Europe!), large and impeccably clean rooms (I suggest the Charlie Chaplin room which overlooks the canals or the Marlene Dietrich room which overlooks the garden), and wonderful bathrooms and showers with water pressure make Hotel Keizershof the perfect hotel. In fact, I liked it so much I returned three times during my two month trip! I have no better advice to give anyone besides STAY AT THE HOTEL KEIZERSHOF! I cannot express enough how enjoyable and delightful they made my stays in Amsterdam. I must respond to the posted note about uncleaned rooms at this hotel; I never once experienced disappointment in cleanliness at Keizershof. The extent of cleanliness is one of the reasons I loved it so much. One morning we returned from breakfast to find that our room had been made up while we were at breakfast and all of our stuff was perfectly organized, our shower scrubbed down, new towels placed in our room, and fresh linens on our bed. By far the best hotel run by the nicest and funniest people in Western Europe! Happy travels!
Sara <email>
Ventura, CA USA Sun 01/30/2005
Church of Our Lady in Bruges
We toured Brussels and Bruges in Nov. using Rick's city walks and had great success. My husband especially enjoyed the Straffe Hendrick Brewery tour in Bruges. Unfortunately, the hours listed in Rick's book for Church of Our Lady were wrong and I missed seeing Michelangelo's Madonna and Child sculpture. The church closed at 4:00, not 5:00. The brewery tours also went later than as posted in the 2004 Amsterdam, Brussels, Bruge guidebook.
Rochelle <email>
Highlands Ranch, CO USA Sun 01/23/2005
Amsterdam in January
Our crew had a few days in Amsterdam following NYE celebrations in Barcelona. While the trip was encumbered by recovery from a food poisoning incident in Spain (a story not worth retelling) we still have a few recommendations to pass along.
The Jordaan is definitely the place to stay in Amsterdam. Great neighborhood vibe with plenty of restaurants, grocery stores and fun shops. We were fortunate enough to get rooms on two of the house boats maintained by the Hotel Acacia. If room is available we recommend asking for the “modern” house boat. These rooms are a little nicer and sit above the water level. This allows you to open a sliding glass door and look out onto the canal with its flocks of ducks. This was by far the best lodging we have had in Amsterdam.
The Caramba Café across from the hotel was a great place for a casual Mexican/Southwest-type meal our first day in town. We also visited Café Restaurant de Reiger. This was an excellent meal at a great price. All of Rick’s accolades for this neighborhood restaurant are well founded. Foodism, right next to the Grey Area coffee shop, is a usual stop for us and did not disappoint this trip. This is a great place for smoothies and pasta dishes.
Rick’s coffee shop recommendations in the Jordaan are spot on. We recommend Paradox for ambience and The Grey Area for the quality and consistency of their product. These are both friendly places with relaxed staffs. One of our other favorite recommendations is Noon. This is a little more of a “locals” place with a great location near the front entrance of the Rijksmuseum.
All of our trips to Holland are enjoyable and this round was no exception. While this trip was a little bit of a disappointment because of illness, we were impressed as always by the openness, helpfulness and generosity of the many wonderful people we encountered on this trip.
Safe travels to all and best wishes for a great 2005.
Ned Fletcher <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Sun 01/16/2005
Amsterdam & Brussels
Amsterdam is a delight. Just looking at the city after departing from the AMS Central Station lifts your spirits. The architecture, Dam Square, the canals, everyone on bicycles, what a great place. We stayed at Hotel Brouwer which was a great choice. Thanks Rick. The room was large, comfortable and full of character. Breakfast was excellent and the Brouwer's staff were friendly and helpful. As good as it gets. Anne Frank's House was touching especially since many of my relatives died in the Holocaust. I only wish that it held more of the original furnishings. The Van Gogh Museum exhibits more of the master's works than anywhere else. Fantastic!! We also enjoyed walking around Haarlem, the Grote Kerk and the Frans Hals Museum. Great history and first class destinations.Brussels had interesting sights but it was the food and drink which were truly memorable. From "french" fries to mussels to belgian waffles to chocolate to the best beer in Europe, we feasted the whole time we were there. We stayed at Hotel St. Nicolas which was well appointed and provided a great location. However, our room faced a busy street and was quite noisy. I could still recommend it just ask the clerk to put you on the quiet side. The Grand Place is a sight to behold and Cathedral des Sts-Michel-et-Gudule is equally magnificent. I would pass on the Musee Instrumentale where we kept having to adjust the headsets to get them to work. Also, the most interesting wings such as the one for Jazz cost more.
B.C.
USA Sun 01/16/2005
Den Helder
Travelled to Den Helder last January to see a different part of Nethl. Stood on top of dike and looked at North Sea. Interesting. Saw ferry to nearby island and nice beaches in the distance. Small nice town. Excellent tourist office. Trip up north on train great. Saw the new floating houses I saw on Tv at home. Boats parked in front. Fantastic. Many greenhouses also.NL rarely disappoints. My favorite country (and that's choosing from the many good choices in Europe).Try traveling to the far reaches of NL on your next trip.
Bill
Mon 01/10/2005
Apartment - Frederic Rent A Bike
We stayed in Amsterdam at an apartment rented through Frederic Rent a Bike (www.frederic.nl). I highly recommend this accomodation. With four kids, the cost of staying in a hotel and eating out for every meal is prohibitive. We had an apartment with a kitchen, bathroom, two bedrooms, and a large living room, in which Frederic provided two single beds. A fantastic location on Brouwersgracht. Only criticism is that some of the apartment furnishings and appliances are beginning to show their age. However, this is a very small inconvenience compared to staying in a true canal front house in a convenient location. Frederic was very responsive. Marvin greeted us when we arrived and sketched out a great map of things to do and see. After seeing Amsterdam's museums and shops, the apartment was a great place to come back and relax. I would rent through Frederic again.
Mike
Rome, Italy Sun 01/09/2005
Feeling Welcome in Brussels
We stayed at the Hotel Welcome recently on a business trip to Brussels. The hotel was very clean and the room comfortable and nicely furnished (we were in the Tibet room). All of the amenities are provided, including hair dryer, tv (although there are not many English-speaking channels), telephone, and heated towel racks (a definite luxury given the weather!). The hotel is a good value, especially given its location just across St. Catherine Square from the main Metro line. A substantial breakfast is included. The staff is very helpful, which is an important factor to us. We would definitely stay here again.
Shari <email>
Kansas City, KS USA Mon 01/03/2005
Missing Information
When going over to the new format, information on a good hotel was deleted from my post, two down from here. The Hotel Maraboe, is a good choice. E96 w/breakfast. www.hotel-maraboe.com. It is not in Rick's book but fits the profile of friendly and family owned.
Larry <email>
Florence, KY USA Sun 12/26/2004
Hotel Welcome is terrific!
Definitely consider this hotel for a stay in Brussels. Its convenient location--right across from a metro stop in the old fishmarket area--makes it easy for you to get to central station and, from there, to any part of Belgium. Our room was comfortable (heated bathroom floors!) and clean, and the breakfast included with your stay is hearty and delicious. Michael and Vanessa were so gracious and helpful. They gave us maps and directions, made dinner reservations for us, etc. This is a top-notch spot, and if I am ever in Brussels again, I will definitely stay here.
Kelly <email>
Easley, SC USA Fri 12/17/2004
Bruges-Hotel and Restaurant
We were in Bruges over a weekend in early November. If traveling to Bruges on weekend reservations are recommended.
The hotel is not in Ricks book but neither is the restaurant we found on Sunday night. The Peppermill or De Pepermolen was a great find, small and cozy with good food at reasonable prices for the quality. Located diretly across the street from Rick's recommended Rock Fort restaurant at Langestraat, 16, out of the town center by 10 minutes and, at least the night we were there, populated by local diners.
Larry <email>
USA Sat 12/11/2004
Flander's Field Tour
We agree that Frank Varenne's Flander's tour is very worthwhile. It was one of the highlights of our stay in Brugge. Would recommend it to all.
Cammie McCarvey <email>
Tucker, ga USA Sun 12/05/2004
Brugge
We stayed four nights with Paul and Roos Gheerarert-Vandevelde in their B & B located at Riddersstraat 9 8000 in Brugge. It was a delightful time. You cannot find better hosts and the breakfast spread is wonderful! We would recommend this B & B to anyone going to Brugge, a charming town. The hosts' can be reached at gheeraert.brugge@skynet.be or by phone +32(0)50 335627 or fax +32(0)50 345201.
Cammie McCarvey <email>
Tucker, GA USA Sun 12/05/2004
Hotel; sights; suggestions; money storage
We have visited Amsterdam twice now, with the help of Rick’s book and others, both times in October-November. Rick’s books are always such a pleasure to use; I wish he had a Dutch phrasebook, even though you hardly need one except to read signs and labels.
The first time in Amsterdam we stayed for a week and the second for two weeks. We stayed both times at the Hotel Kap, a couple of old Dutch houses and formerly a backpackers’ hostel but for some years now remodeled as a hotel and offering plain, clean, comfortable rooms with and without private baths and toilets. (The Kap is currently remodeling its rooms again.) Most of the staff are completely fluent in English, and everyone is very friendly and helpful. The breakfast buffet in the quiet, garden-side breakfast room (with classical music) is quite good. We have thoroughly enjoyed both stays there and regard it as our “home from home” in Amsterdam. I noticed that the Kap’s room-windows lack screens, so people visiting there in warmer seasons might want to be prepared for mosquitoes.The Hotel Kap’s location strikes us as excellent: on a quiet side street (Den Texstraat 5b) just off the Singelgracht, very near a major tram stop (Weteringcircuit, pronounced “VET-er-ing-sir-KWEE”), and within easy walking distance of Museumplein, the Concertgebouw, Albert Cuypstraat and its wonderful market, and just about anywhere else in Amsterdam. Rick may want to check it out for his next edition.
One of the greatest pleasures in Amsterdam is simply walking along the older streets and lovely canals -- in spite of the construction going on to extend the subway line farther south. To us, Amsterdam’s biggest challenge is not getting run over by bicyclists (ha ha).While I’d rather keep the Hotel Kap as “our secret,” that would be a disservice to the hotel as well as to other visitors.
We visited outside Amsterdam, too: Haarlem, Zaanse Schans, and beautiful Hoge Veluwe National Park and its Kroller-Muller Museum -- all wonderful in different ways. Even on a cool and cloudy day, Zaanse Schans had quite a few tourists milling about in its center. Luckily for us, we walked out to the windmill farthest from the center, De Bonte Hen. This windmill, volunteer-rebuilt and -run, grinds oils from seeds, like the linseed oils used to make oil paints from pigments ground from minerals by the next mill nearer the town, which I think is De Kat. Our visit to De Bonte Hen was especially enjoyable, as few people go all the way out there, and the volunteers were offering free cups of coffee -- quite good -- to those visitors who did. The two of us had a very enjoyable tour of De Bonte Hen with one of the volunteers, who had the time to go into detail about the fascinating way the mill’s ingenious oil-stamping machinery works.
Later on, back in Amsterdam and visiting Rembrandt’s house, the volunteer who demonstrated seventeenth-century paint-making techniques told us they used pigments from De Kat (and I think also oils from De Bonte Hen) for authenticity.
In our travels, I have used Rick’s moneybelt around the waist as well as the money-pouch around the neck. I keep my money, passport, any tickets, etc., in belt/pouch. As a woman and in public, I felt more comfortable pulling the money-pouch out of my turtleneck than fiddling for the moneybelt in what would always turn out to be my underpants. In either case, I have not had my pocket picked so far, and bad luck to anyone who tries: you’ll get only lint and ticket-stubs.
K.M. Morey <email>
Mammoth Lakes, CA USA Sat 11/20/2004
Hotel in Brussels
The Hotel Welcome in Brussels was a treat we wish to enjoy again. Location is excellent, and staff were unusually warm and helpful. Breakfast buffet was extensive and fresh and delicious. Kenya (room) was fun.
David Gregory <email>
Nashville, TN USA Mon 11/15/2004
Splurge Dinner in Brugge
We had an incredible dinner at Au Petit Grand on Philopstockstraat. It is an intimate restaurant with a staff of only four, two of whom are the owners Tom and Line. Every dish was wonderfully flavorful, well prepared, and nicely presented. We were three couples, and everyone raved about their individual meal.
Kerry <email>
Bellevue, WA USA Sat 11/06/2004
Brugge
I recommend spending two full days in Brugge if you want to visit all the museums, etc. They sell a pass for a bunch of museums for 15EU (think). The pass does not expire,so you can visit at your leisure. I found the city hall the most impressive of the museums I visited. BTW not all the buses run back to the train station from downtown. You need to pay attention and get on the right bus. I had a plat du jour of mussels at a nice restaurant near the Mary Church. Delicious.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
Staying in Haarlem
I arrived in Haarlem at noon and stopped at the TI next to the train station. They matched me with the B&B of Hanna en Egbert Bot. It was very nice with a FULL breakfast. The going rate for B&Bs in Haarlem is 20EU, double. I paid 25EU for a single, which was set up to sleep 3. The bathroom/shower was shared by 4 rooms, I think. My room had a sink. The place was across town from the train station, about a 25-minute walk. I didn't mind. A cab wouldn't cost much. It's only a few minutes walk to almost anything in town. I ended up staying in Haarlem for 5 nights and hardly even saw Amsterdam.
After 2 nights at the B&B I moved to the Carillon Hotel on the main plaza. That was interesting and very comfortable. My room was a tiny single with a big window--cozy and not claustrophobic. Breakfast was generous. The stairs are unbelievably steep and narrow. Not for the faint-hearted. I made generous use of the handrail, and decided not to drink any alcohol before climbing to my room. I would stay there again. Thirty-three Euros a night for singles. It's in Rick's book.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
Hotel Welcome, Brussels
My rooms -- I stayed twice recently -- were the funkiest I've ever had at a hotel -- in a good sense. I stayed in "Cuba" first, with a mural of old Havana on the wall and a fat cigar painted on the radiator. The opposite of an impersonal box. Second time, in "Thailand", was even better -- on top of a great room, I had a view, through roof-top windows, of the surrounding area of the city.
The staff could not have been more friendly and helpful. I thought I was just in Brussels as a way-station between other destinations, but with their help, I discovered and enjoyed the city in an unanticipated way. The location was super for exploring the historical parts of the city. Plus, Vanessa may have helped me unravel the mystery of the origin of my family name, for which I'm very grateful.Great experience. I'd definitely go back.
Jeff Sconyers <email>
Seattle, WA USA Mon 11/01/2004
Brugge
During the last two weeks of September, my friend and I did a “whirlwind” tour of Europe – Haarlem/Amsterdam, Brugge, Reims, Luxembourg, Koblenz, and finishing in Copenhagen. Six countries, and stayed at seven different places – a mix of B&Bs and Hotels. Of all of these places, we both agreed that Brugge was our favorite town and were we stayed was our favorite lodging.
We stayed at Absoluut Verhulst [Verbrand Nieuland 1; tel: 0032 (0) 50 334 515; web: www.b-bverhulst.com; e-mail: b-b.verhulst@pandora.be]. This wonderful B&B is listed in Rick Steves book – Amsterdam, Brussels & Bruges. It is run by two of the best people we met on this trip – Frieda & Benno Verhulst.
Frieda & Benno are very friendly and great hosts. There place is clean and classy, and they serve a breakfast that is also the best. We stayed in their “loft” rooms, which had two separate double beds, one upstairs in the upper portion with a full bath and one downstairs with a half bath. There was also a large living room with two sofas and television. This is quite a bargain at €100 per night. The loft is very suitable for a family as well.My only regret is that we stayed only two nights, but as I told Benno, I do plan on returning and will stay at there place which I heartily recommend Absoluut Verhulst to anyone coming to this beautiful town.
Travels in Europe just aired its new program today in fact, on Brugge and Brussels. If you will notice Rick spent 20 minutes on Brugge and 10 minutes on Brussels. I can only guess that Brugge is one of his favorites as well.
Ric Brooks <email>
Westminster, CO USA Sat 10/30/2004
Frederic Rent-a-Bike
I took the Amsterdam guidebook's recommendation and booked a place with Frederic Rent-a-Bike in Amsterdam. Five of us rented a three-bedroom apartment, and we thought it was great. The small bedroom in the basement was perhaps better suited to one non-claustrophobic person than two, but the other two rooms were spacious and all of the beds were very comfortable. The location was great. We found the staff, especially Marvin, to be very helpful, especially with places to shop and eat nearby. We had a full kitchen, and the grocery store was a five-minute walk away. Frederic Rent-a-Bike rents many other places around the city, and I would definitely take a look at their other offerings next time I go to Amsterdam.
Gretchen <email>
Seattle, WA USA Wed 10/27/2004
Welcome Hotel
We greatly enjoyed the Brussels Brugge book which helped us to plan our total trip in the two cities. We want to especially thank you listing the Welcome Hotel in Brussels which we had the pleasure of staying in our last night in Europe. We were given our choice of rooms, and a tour of the soon to be finished new breakfast room and reception area.
To our great dissappointment Micheal's restaurant is no more. But we were delighted by his homebaked croissants, best we've ever eaten and the full breakfast that was included in the very reasonable room rate. He also directed us to a great local restaurant for our last dinner. We would highly reccommend this Hotel to anyone wanting to stay within easy access of all the sites.
Sybil and Steve Kohl <email>
Brush Prairie, WA USA Tue 10/26/2004
amsterdam new urban living project next year also for guests
hi,
i also stayed there
it's cool normal living there
nohotel is the word
now i heard that fred and kitty has a new plan
making their own straw bales building
on steigereiland: own of the new urbanliving islamd projects east from central station
15 minutes by tram every 10 minutes wow
i have young kids so finally going to Amsterdam as a family
they have a beach you have your own bike/ canoe/ babysit
we can even take the dog they say
perfect idea
they tell you more= info@lievenachten.nl
greetings Tommy from London
tommy
london, USA Tue 10/26/2004
lieve nachten in amsterdam
Review by cordula , 04-22-04lieve nachten
going there is coming backfor me:the family and friends,feeling home easily in amazing amsterdam
upon entering this big canal view room/loft in the real centre/red light district, we felt very comfortable and very safe. - no problem with noise after closing the big windows. 4 of our 9 heads group stayed here but it was the central meeting and relaxing point for the whole group and the other 5 were jealous ;) it`s worth to mention and view (!) the beautiful chairs from ghana ;) not to forget: kitty and fred are lovely landlords!!! their faxnumber = +31204288843
cordula
USA Tue 10/26/2004
>
Brussels: Hotel Welcome
Our recent stay at the Hotel Welcome was a delightful experience. This small hotel is unique in that each of its 15 rooms are named for a foreign country. The room is decorated and furnished in the motif of that country. We stayed in the DeLuxe room called China and enjoyed a loft with a sitting area and TV. The staff is warm and friendly and the included breakfast is quite good. We would return to the Hotel Welcome without hesitation if our travels take us to Brussels again.
Clarence Thomas <email>
Baltimore, MD USA Mon 10/18/2004
Bruges: Dieltiens B&B: SUPERB
B&BDieltiens: SuperbWe are travelling for 6 weeks in Europe: Venice, Rome, London,Amsterdam, Bruges,Paris.The highlight of our trip was Bruges.We stayed at the Dieltiens B&B. This was the best place of our trip.A very charming and incredible clean room. The breakfast was fabulous and Koen and Annemie were both most welcoming, warm and very helpfull.We extended our stay with 2 more nights in the holidayhousestudio.We enjoyed it very much: very comfortable and sparkling clean. For some days we felt like at home.We were very pleased and will definitely stay at Dieltiens B&B again. We highly recommend them.
John and Sharon Ross <email>
Wayland, MA USA Fri 10/15/2004
Dieltiens B&B, Bruges: Not always pleasant
While in Bruges, my travelling companion and I stayed at the Dieltiens' B&B for two nights. Annemie informed me via email that the Dieltiens' main house was fully booked , but she recommended we stay in the downstairs studio in her holiday house. After reading complimentary passages about Koen and Annemie in both "Amsterdam, Brussels and Bruges" and Lonely Planet's Belgium and Luxembourg travel guide, I was sure we had a winner, so I didn't hesitate to book.
Annemie was incredibly helpful, knowledgeable, hospitable and warm -- but when we got to our room, it left something to be desired. There were cobwebs in the ceiling corners, and a layer of grimy dust on the wall thick enough to be visible from the doorway. The room also smelled somewhat musty, and did not improve even though we left the windows cracked during the daytime to air it out. My travelling companion, who is sensitive to dust and mold, suffered from breathing difficulties and swelling around her eyes after sleeping too close to the dusty wall.
During our stay we had a lengthy conversation with our upstairs neighbors, an English couple who had spent two nights in the studio before moving to the more spacious upstairs flat. They expressed dissatisfaction with the studio and assured us that the upstairs flat is better maintained, though still somewhat dusty.It was raining when we checked out, and we shared a taxi to the train station with an Australian couple who had stayed in their guest house. We compared notes and they mentioned having been turned off by mold in the showers there.
While I am impressed by the Dieltiens' hospitality and helpfulness, I regret that I cannot recommend a stay in their holiday house. Ask to see your room in the holiday house before accepting it. If you tolerate dust well, you may not be bothered.If you do end up in the downstairs studio, you can rest assured that the sign on the wall chiding you to "leave the room as clean as you found it" is easy to heed. In fact, as I was unable to locate replacement cobwebs for the ones we knocked down while tidying up, we were forced to leave the studio in slightly *better* condition than we found it.
Tony Spataro <email>
Santa Barbara, CA USA Sun 10/10/2004
Bruges and Amsterdam
While I was in Bruges, I wandered into a small restaurant to have a late afternoon waffle and coffee. I pulled put my Rick Steves' book to comtemplate my next step. The restaurant owner noticed the book and excitedly came over and told me, "I'm in the book! I'm in the book." He proudly showed me where Restaurant Hennon is listed. Bruges was charming and I'm so glad I went there.
I stayed at the Hotel ter Bruge and had a gigantic room looking out on the canal. Madame Dumon and I had a delightful conversation about the differences between Bruges and Paris (my previous destination). Her chocolates were wonderful.
My next stop was Amsterdam and I found Rick's walking tours of the city easy to follow and very informative (even the Red Light District walk!). The dinner I had at Cafe de Reiger may have been the best I had during my entire trip to Europe this year. The staff was very friendly and patiently translated their blackboard menu for me.
Rick mentions that the service is sometimes slow at Cafe Vertigo but, at least, on the Friday afternoon I was there, it was self-serve. It was a beautiful afternoon and Cafe Vertigo is a great place to people watch in Vondelpark.
I did not take any of Rick's suggestions for hotels in Amsterdam and unfortunately ended up staying in an overpriced room about the size of a prison cell. The International Broadcasters convention is held the first week of September in Amsterdam making it hard to find rooms. If hotels want to gouge travelers with expense accounts, fine, but it's not good to do it to visitors paying with their own money.
Susan Taylor <email>
Denver, CO USA Sun 09/19/2004
B&B In Brugge
We just spent a great weekend in Brugge. We ended up staying at Contrast bed and breakfast. It just opened in July. We really like our room. There are three rooms, there is the blue room, yellow room and the red room. Each is different and great. The B&B is a short walk to the market square. Just fallow the canel. The oweners Dries and Cathy were very nice to talk to and gave us great places to eat. We can't wait to go back. www.contrastbrugge.de
We ate dinner down the street from the B&B at Bistro De Schaar. It is on Hooistraat. That is a wonderful place to eat. Everything we had was wonderful. If you like chocolate then get the dessert called the White Lady.
For great chocolate go to Neuhaus chocolatier. It is located on the right side of the bell tower down the alley. That is the best chocolate. Not cheap at all. But worth the money spent.
Liz <email>
Germany Tue 09/14/2004
Great Restaurant in Bruge
We had a very enjoyable meal at Chasse-Spleen in Bruge. It's off the beaten path but only a few minutes walk from the center of town. Strangely uncrowded, but it was in March when we were there. Good wine selection. I'm surprised it wasn't in Rick's book, it's kind of a funky place at a fair price. Oh, and very nice service. What more can you ask? I didn't know until now that they have a web-site: http://www.chasse-spleen.be/
Randy <email>
Menlo Park, CA USA Tue 08/31/2004
room rates
Do not trust that all room rates stated in the most current books are accurate despite best efforts. The rate in the book for Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam was their "off season" rates, whoops..they honored the book quote. Additionally,I had some convincing to do with Hotel de L'Alma in Paris to honor the rate of 79 euros stated in the book. Initially it was 109 euros then 90 euros. E-mail, reserve, then speak on the phone,if necessary, to get it right and get a hard copy print out.
Regards
Peter
Peter <email>
Seattle, WA USA Thu 08/26/2004
Frites in Brugge
Ooh -- I forgot to mention that we found a better frite place than the stands below the Bell Tower! If you go to Dumond on Eiermartstraat (sp?), keep walking until you see a sign on a corner for a "Frituur" that sells frites & burger & other food items. Only 50 Euro cents higher than the stands under the bell tower, but TONS yummier!
Annette <email>
Germany Sun 08/15/2004
Dumond...Brugge...Floral Carpet in Brussels
Oh....my....GOSH!! I totally agree -- Dumond chocolates are to DIE for! We just got back from a quick weekend trip to Brugge (we live in Europe, so it was worth the drive!) and since we missed Dumond our first time, we specifically hunted down the two stores. We initially bought one box for us and two for my hubby's work...but on the way home, we figured his office would do just fine with one! We still didn't do everything we wanted to in Brugge, so we know we'll be back!
Also -- the Flanders Hotel -- WONDERFUL!! The location is great, parking in the rear was safe, breakfast was good, and the front desk folks were oh-so helpful! When we asked about a taxi to the train station, they recommended the cheaper, easier bus route from right in front of the hotel!
We trekked down to Brussels on the train (driving downtown Brussels is a major pain in the keester!!) to see the Floral Carpet at the Grand Place (happens every 2 years, lasts only for 4 days) -- worth it for us to see, but the crowds were a bit much. We were grateful that we stayed in Brugge!
Annette <email>
Germany Sun 08/15/2004
Belgium and Holland tour comments
I recently took a 3-country tour after some business in the UK. My friend from work, his wife and baby, and I visited Belgium and Holland after 4 days in London and Cambridge.
Bruges was my favorite stop on our tour. We stayed at Robert and Lievtjes B&B (as recommended by Rick) and loved it. There is lots to see by way of museums, 600-year-old churches, and just plain picturesque, story-book sights. We took the bike ride out to Damme which was fun and scenic. I love the life-style shared by the Bruges partisans. They are very friendly (especially Robert) and love to talk about their pretty spot in life. Rick's book was invaluable in getting around and hitting the best sights. He recommended Tom's Diner (Robert also recommended this place) for a good place to have a great meal and it did not disappoint.
I think I'd give Brussels a pass if I had it to do over again (Rick had a similar opinion). Except for the Grande Place there wasn't much else to see.
Amsterdam was fun. It is a pretty, scenic city and has plenty to see. Just watch the pick-pockets on the trams. I kept my wallet in my front pocket and left as much cash locked away as possible. We stayed at the Hotel Keizershof where Mary and Hanneke run a fine B&B. Mary's omlettes in the morning are great.
We stayed at the Hotel Amadeus in Haarlem for a couple days and I recommend it for location, right on the main (Grote Markt) square. A great place to sit and have a beer.
I wish I could have spent more time sightseeing in the UK. There are some great sights there but it is significantly more expensive than Belgium and Holland.
Jerry <email>
San Jose, CA USA Thu 08/12/2004
follow up to changing linen
I forgot to mention in my previous posting that not only were the linens not changed but not once during our 3 night stay at the Keizershof were the beds made in my daughter's room or the bathroom cleaned. Even in hotels that ask their guests to not have their linen changed daily, staff cleaned the bathroom and changed and made up the bed daily.
I again want to emphasize that our stay at the Keizershof was not altogether unpleasant. The breakfast was great and Mary and Hanneke were very friendly, hospitable and gave us good advice on where to eat and transportion needs. I just wish that we had not had problems with mosquitos, cleaning the bathroom, and changing linens and beds in my daughter's room that basically cost them one-night's sleep.
mosquito ridden poster
Salem, USA Tue 08/10/2004
changing linen
As Stephanie points out, many hotels do not change linens daily. I am very aware of this policy since many of the hotels that we stayed at in the U.K. practiced this policy. However, these hotels posted this as their policy and invited guests that did not wish their linen changed daily to simply hang the linen back on the towel rack. I always do this given a choice since I am in favor of saving water and energy. However, the Keizershof had no postings indicating that this was their policy. In fact, they routinely changed the linens in my wife and my's room (which by the way also had a screen to keep out mosquitos) even when the linens were hung up on the towel rack. We pointed out one day to Mary that the linen in my daughter's room had not been changed. She seemed surprised and immediately offered new linen - which by the way never came. Again, I do not mind not having linen changed everyday but if this is the practice of a hotel (which I believe is the case with the Keizershof), then I expect it to happen.
mosquito-ridden poster
Salem, USA Tue 08/10/2004
Great Hotel, No Mosquitos
We stayed at the Hotel Keizershop in Amsterdam and had a lovely, lovely visit. The huge breakfasts saved us many euros in food costs and we were treated excellently. Happy to say no mosquitos--though being a mosquito-bite prone person I always carry creme insect repellent (won't spill in your luggage), an idea for those who don't want to spend 30E on a screen. (And a note to the mosquito-ridden poster: many hotels in Europe do not change towels and linens daily--a point Rick makes often in his books. We pack a couple of clothes hangers to let our towels dry out and did so at the Kaizershof.)
Stephanie <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Brussels, Bruges, book comments
I had always watched Rick's PBS specials, but this is the first time I have gone to continental Europe. I used Rick's book for my stays in Bruges and Brussels. I had no idea of the POWER of Rick Steves, until I walked into Dumon's chocolate shop in Bruges, said Hello and was asked if I was from the U.S. When I said yes, the owner said, "Rick Steves?". I didn't have the book on me at the time, but I believe the owner is very appreciative of the recommendation in the book and assumes any American entering her shop has read Rick's book. I actually went into almost every chocolate shop I passed; I'm addicted.
I met many fellow travelers who use Rick's books as their travel "bibles". Anyway, I stayed in Bruges at the Royal Stewart B&B (Maggie) and Dieltiens B&B (Koen and Annemie). All lovely people and incredibly CLEAN, comfortable and reasonable places to stay. Maggie has to be the most warm and welcoming hostess I have ever come across in travel anywhere in the U.S., U.K. or Ireland. Each morning, she introduced new guests to each other, commented on where they were from, asked if they enjoyed their previous day (remembering what everyone had been planning to do), offered suggestions for non-touristy things to do and made sure everyone had everything they needed.
Some comments on the book info:
1. It was very hard to find the internet cafe in DeBroukere Place in Brussels. You must go downstairs at the metro stop. I walked around for a long time and asked many people before I found it. Keyboards are not American, so it is more difficult to type on, but the price is cheap compared to other places in town.
2. The map for bike tours around Bruges in the tourist office is a bit hard to follow for bike tour I am very good at reading maps and got lost twice, backtracking and finding my way only by luck. It ended up taking me a good 3 hours to bike to Zeebrugge. I enjoyed it anyway, as I got lost in the middle of nowhere and I think that's part of the fun.
3. The Italian restaurant someone mentioned on this board that is on Acadmiestraat near Jan Van Eyck Plein is called "Trium". I had an excellent light dinner for 7 euros.
4. It would have been nice for the book to have just a couple of pages on Gent and a map of the city center. Gent is an easy day trip from Brussels or Bruges.
5. I took the Quasimodo tour of Flanders Field and enjoyed it immensely. Only 7 people booked the tour that day, so we took a mini van instead of a larger bus. Lode doesn't run all the tours himself, as stated in the book. Our tour was run by his colleague, Sharon, who also does the Triple Treat tour. She said she has done the Flanders Field tour for about 2 years; I believe she and Lode rotate. She was very informative, very knowledgeable and had an interesting anecdote for every question we asked. She was emotionally invested in the stories of the soldiers and the war and really brought it alive for us. The only thing I wish had been different was that I wished we had seen the Flanders Field museum in Ieper instead of the Hoogecrater museum.
6. The Straffe Henrick brewery tour was kind of fun, but they have not been brewing beer there since February as a part is broken on one of the machines and the replacement hadn't come in yet (this was early August). The guide was not sure if beer would ever be brewed there again.
Kathleen <email>
S. Brunswick, NJ USA Thu 08/05/2004
mosquitos
I'm not sure who in the Netherlands responded to my comments about mosquitos in the Hotel Keizershof. If mosquitos are a known problem in the summer in Amsterdam then hotels without airconditioning should know in advance not to let out rooms that do not have screens on the windows. I hardly think it is the poor renter's responsibility to know in advance that mosquitos may be a problem and run out and spend 30 euros on a mosquito screen. I surely hope that it is not the hotel management who wrote this entry because they should know better and accept responsibility for renting a room that is basically not rentable. Needless to say, I will be contesting the credit card charge for my daughter's last night at the Keizershof and hopefully I will not have to pay 100 euros for a room that could not be used for a night.
Peter
Salem, OR USA Thu 08/05/2004
mosquitoes
Mosquitoes are a big problem in Amsterdam during the summer -- as I'm now discovering. And since most of the cheaper hotels are non-air conditioned and tend not to have window screens, if you get really desperate you might want to invest in a "klamboe" (klahm-boo) or mosquito net. Many Dutch people use them, and they're available in department stores, sporting goods shops, etc. starting at about €30.
Peter
Amsterdam, NL Wed 08/04/2004
eating in Amsterdam
Highly recommend two restaurants in Amsterdam. Had our last meal of the trip at the Restaurant November on 266 Spuistraat. Lovely outdoor eating area and excellent food. Also highly recommend the Pancake Bakery (in Rick's Amsterdam book). Have great dinner and dessert pancakes. Dessert pancakes taste particularly good after a visit to the Bulldog Coffeeshop.
Peter
Salem, OR USA Tue 08/03/2004
picpockets in Amsterdam
Just returned from a European vaction that included 2 days in Amsterdam. I was pickpocketed on the tram the day we arrived. They stole credit cards, my driver's license, 100 euros and my passport. It happened as my family and I were trying to get off a very crowed tram with our lugguge. I had on they type of money belt that clips down inside my pants but they still were able to lift it out. I would recommend that for a group of 3-4 to take a taxi to you hotel from the airport. It only costs about 35 euros. That's not much more than buying tickets for the airport shuttle into central station and then buying for tickets for the tram. Needless to say, I guess I'm going to have to take the type of moneybelt that goes around the waist inside your clothing. They are not as comfortable to wear, especially in the heat, but it is better than getting pickpocketed.
Peter
Salem, OR USA Tue 08/03/2004
Hotel Keizershof
Recently stayed at the Hotel Keizershof with my wife, my daughter and my daughter's fiance. There are many nice things to say about this hotel including the hospitality offered by Mary and Hannake, breakfast and clean, comfortable rooms. However, I caution anyone having to stay in the John Wayne room which is on the top floor. My daughter and her fiance woke up on our last night in Amsterdam with mosquitos all around the room - couldn't close the windows because of the heat. They were bitten many times and had to come down to my wife's and my room to sleep on the floor. Also, the linen and towels were not changed in this room on a daily basis. I wrote to Mary about these problems. She said that screens are not allowed on the top floor because of fire regulations and that they only have mosquitos for one month out of the year. She also said that a change of towels and linens were offered by refused. This is not true. So at best, I must give the Hotel Keizershof a mixed review.
Peter
Salem, OR USA Tue 08/03/2004
Boring Brussels, but what a trip!
I did a solo trip through Amsterdam, and met up with a friend to visit Bruges and Brussels. I took Rick's guide along with me and it was an invaluable asset. The coverage on Brussels was skimpy, which was a bit frustrating because it was hard for us to figure out things to do there. You should include more coverage of the area around the St. Catherine fish market -- we found a fun little square where we sat outside and drank Belgian beer all afternoon at the Zebra cafe/bar.
In Bruges, we ate at a wonderful restaurant at the Jan Van Eyck square. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of it, but if you're staring at the statue of Jan Van Eyck, facing the canal, it's just off to your right. It was a quite place and only locals, and we had a fabulous meal for about 20 euros each. We did the backpacker thing in Bruges and stayed at Charlie Rocket's, very clean and the small rooms (2-6 beds) were a steal at 14 euros a night.
I stayed at Rick's recommended Shelter Jordan hostel in Amsterdam my last night there, and had a sleepless night. If you're a light sleeper I wouldn't recommend the place, as you have 17 other roommates staying with you. I also went to the Van Gogh Museum, and Rick's guide said admission was only 7.25, but I had to pay 12.50!! I'm not a big art person, so this was a bit of a waste for me. However, the Amsterdam Sex Museum (for 2.50) was a humorous way to spend a rainy afternoon.
I had a fantastic trip and it was great to have this book along to explain everything. Thanks!
Meghan
Villa Park, IL USA Thu 07/29/2004
Brugge lodging
Staying in Brugge-Gasthof Groenhove was superb b&b-Hans and Angelina gracious hosts. 100-yr old house 10 minute walk from city center sits amid fountains and ponds with great green space, country feel. Bikes on premises. House is comfortable, spacious, rooms well-kept and pleasant. Breakfast served in veranda,or outside on patio, weather permitting.Hospitality outstanding and price is right. It was my favorite place on our trip.
Nancy <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA Mon 07/26/2004
Three additions on Brussels
Just returned from Europe, using your excellent book about Amsterdam, Bruge, & Brussels. However, I have two items your book missed about Brussels.
First, there was no mention at all of a wonderful Jewish site, which is the Great Synagogue, built in 1858. It is located on the main street running behind the Centraal train Station, in the upper area. It is a beautiful building, in totally restored condition, with over 500 wooden seats inside, with gorgeous designs on the wall. As there are so few Jewish sites left in Europe. Not sure if it was destroyed in the war and restored (as unfortunately, the information sheet was in French), After so many churches, it was nice to visit a non-Christian site for a change. There was a large memorial wall commemorating the loss of life in 1939-1945 under the Nazi's. As your book made no mention whatsoever of this centrally located, historical building, if we had not stumbled on it, we would have missed it. It certainly is a building you may want to consider adding in future editions.
Second, you made a very brief mention of Belgium independence day on July 21. It actually is their independence from the German occupation in WWII, and there is a huge celebration (on that same main street where the synagogue is), where folks from Belgium come to celebrate. Along the lines of a state fair, there are parades (including, I heard. a visit from the king and queen, military displays, Belgium flags everywhere , craft stands, food stands selling everthing from fresh, hot waffles, to french fries (with several types of mayonaisse), hot dogs, schwarma's, beer, music makers and more. This year they also had a wonderful WWII tanks display, including many US tanks. At 11:00 pm there is a huge fire works display. Apparently, folks from all over Belgium come to Brussels that day to celebrate. While many stores are closed, the main plaza is packed with people, the restaurants and surrounding stores are open, and it is a fun time for all. Even the Mannekin Pis was wearing a WWII uniform, with the Belgium flag draped behind him! Something you may want to add to future editions so that people visiting in Brussels that day won't feel it is a lost day.
Lastly, because it was off season, we stayed at the five star Le Meridian Bruxelles (across the stree from the Centraal station), for less than 90 euros per night. We had booked it on the internet, and everything was all prepared when we arrived for our three day stay. It was a beautiful hotel, perfectly located with the main plaza right behin it and the train station across the street, with recently refurbished floors that offered the best in everything. A great bargain, as the posted signs from peak season indicated a normal price of $450 euros! Food, however, was still prohibitive in the hotel, so our all meals were purchased elsewhere.
Thanks for your great books.
Elise Beckerman <email>
Sacramento, CA USA Sun 07/25/2004
Brugge
Brugge - Had a good visit to Brugge and would recommend the Hotel ter Reien which overlooks the canal. It was clean, comfortable and the breakfast buffet was very nice. The staff was extremely kind and very helpful. The De Torre restaurant was across the street and was very good. Did not care for the food at the Hobbit restaurant as the ribs were very tough and the pasta dish way too cheesy. My suggestion is to get away from the market as it is very touristy and explore the side streets and canal areas.
G. Walsh <email>
Blythewood, SC USA Tue 07/20/2004
Bruges accommodations
We stayed at Kwalito in Bruges, Belgium a little over a week ago. This was recommended in a prior review on Rick's site. The place was AMAZING. It's fairly well located, not far from the center square and Belfry (though a bit of a hike from the train station). The owners are SUPER friendly and helpful. WE got a big fruit basket upon our arrival, a wonderful breakfast, and even some belgian cookies as a take away. The owners also operate a store downstairs, which makes it super convenient. This was a really charming place to stay. Nice to have a whole kitchenette, tea kettle, refrigerator (stocked with water and juice) etc. as well. Two of us stayed for about 70 euros, which was a great value. I fully recommend this place!
Rachel Fleet <email>
Oakland, CA USA Sun 07/04/2004
hotels in Brussels, Bruges, and Amsterdam
My brother and I just got back from a trip to Brussels, Bruges, and Amsterdam. We literally let Rick be our guide for places to stay and almost everywhere we ate (including the chocolate shops!). We were especially pleased with our accomodations in each of the three cities.
In Brussels we stayed at the Mozart Hotel where the decor is so over-the-top it provided no end of amusement for us. It was like living in a jewelry box full of gold and vividly colored gems--wonderful! The service was great and the staff was warm and friendly. Even though we stayed in the fourth floor 'garret' (wow, what a climb), this hotel really made an impression on us.
So did Paul and Roos Gheeraert's B & B in Bruges which is nicely located about a three-minute walk from the main square. The room was huge and had a bright Scandanavian feel. The breakfast was wonderful--lots of choices complete with yummy croissants and fresh squeezed OJ. The house is so elegant with a back yard to die for! It was an incredible bargain, too, with a double at only 55 Euros a night.
The last place we stayed was the Hotel Keizerhof in Amsterdam. Mary, the owner, is such a sweetheart. Cute room and the best breakfast on our trip. Her omelets were scrumptious. Our charming room overlooked Mary's beautiful English garden, her pride and joy. Thank you, Rick, and all the wonderful hotel and B & B folks we met on our fabulous trip this summer!
Joanna Schultz <email>
Ann Arbor, MI USA Thu 07/01/2004
Eating in Haarlem
Rick was right on with his recommendation of De Buren restaurant. The food was great, the menu entertaining, and the owner and his wife are incredibly welcoming. Do visit!
Will <email>
Vancouver, WA USA Mon 06/21/2004
Great 1-day Amsterdam Itinerary
My friend and I recently followed Rick Steves' one-day Amsterdam itinerary when we spent two nights and a day here, and it worked out wonderfully. His recommendations are right on the money. At first glance I thought his itinerary might be overly ambitious for me, but it wasn't. We had a super day and saw tons of great stuff (the Rijksmuseum, the Beginhof, etc.). The only things we did differently were to add the Hortus Botanicus (botanical gardens) to the itinerary during the afternoon, and wait till evening to visit the Anne Frank House (it's open till 9:00pm in summer) after an early dinner instead of going through the Red Light District.
We ate at three restaurants/cafes he recommends and they were all so good. De Reiger in the Jordaan area had great food, service with a big smile, and a casual atmosphere with a dark wood bar and candlelight. At Vertigo Cafe in Vondelpark I had the best apple tart I've ever had, not to mention a beautiful view of the park from our outdoor table, and we thoroughly enjoyed our first Rijsttafel Indonesian dinner at Taman Sari - what a treat for the tastebuds that was! The Toren Hotel where we stayed was a bit of a splurge for me, but it was sooooooo nice! Right on the very pleasant Kaizersgracht Canal. A great experience all around.
Suzanne <email>
Seattle, WA USA Mon 06/21/2004
Brugge B&B
On our recent trip, we stayed at the Verdi Brugge Tea Room (a B&B). The owners "went the extra mile" to be helpful and make us feel welcome. The soothing classical music during dinner was a pleasant surprise. It is located mere steps from the center of the City.
These folks commitment to each and every customer was very evident. I recommend them without exception and we plan to stay there should we be able to return to this beautiful city. Our stay was delightful.
Richard & Deanna Hill
Knoxville, tn USA Sun 06/06/2004
Bistro de Bekoring
We went to Bistro de Bekoring then discovered it was in the book. The guide book has an error for when it is actually open, it is open for lunch on sundays, just not for dinner.
Anyway, i highly reccommend. We were taking one of the ghent/bruges guided tours. The guide was so aweful & it was cold & rainy so we ditched the guide in bruges & went into the first nice cafe we could find. Perfect, great food, good atmosphere & warm and friendly.
Alex Colburn
Renton, WA USA Wed 06/02/2004
Bruges Restaurants
Maggie at our B&B suggested we try the restaurant of her friend Sonia. We did and were glad for the experience.
Willemijn Restaurant is on Gentpoortstraat 51 on the south side of Bruges right near the gate.
Lunch was a delicious soup, meatloaf and a pile of green beans. Like good home cooking. Very nice. The price was around 18 euros for two "menu de jour" including a beer and wine.
After lunch we took the long route around the edge of the city to view the windmills and walk along the canal.
We also stopped at Tom's Diner the other night and the food was very good (though not fantastic), the service great and the presentation sensational. A nice place (but expect to drop a few more euros than you might elsewhere).
There's also an Italian restaurant just off the Jan Van Eckplein square that has a good selection and very reasonable prices.
On the whole, once you get away from the touristy main squares in Bruges, we've had very good luck with the restaurants. The menus are fun to browse and the prices not outrageous.
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA USA Wed 05/26/2004
Bruges French Fries
I asked at the tourist office on Burg Square in Bruges, "Where can I get the best french fries?" The guy behind the desk didn't pause, but marked my map - "Boodje" on Langstraat near the intersection with Kwekersstraat (I love the names of these streets!) on the southeast side of Bruges.
We wandered down there and found a great little neighborhood deli. The french fries were excellent and we ended up ordering a couple large orders and beers to accompany. And we sampled 4 of the different sauces.
While we ate our fries the neighborhood folks came in and ordered their dinners - fries, croquets, spaghetti and sauce, etc. (all to take home for dinner). It was a fun half hour sitting and watching the local action.
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA USA Wed 05/26/2004
Bruges B&B - Royal Stewart
We're staying at the Royal Stewart B&B (maybe in Rick's 2004 book?) in Bruges at 27 Genthof (bus 4 or 8 from the station - get off at Jan Van Eyckplein). It's a great place.
The owner, Maggie, is from Scotland and has an antique shop downstairs. As you can imagine, the rooms are all filled with antiques and beautifully set up. And the neighborhood is very quiet and just a few minutes from the main squares. 57 euros a night for 2 people. It's been the best stop for us during our monthlong tour.
- Jack and Paula
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA USA Wed 05/26/2004
Haarlem beats Amsterdam
Bullseye, Rick! If you want to see quaint neighborhoods, skip Amsterdam and do Haarlem, Netherlands. Cobblestone streets, old architecture, canals, historic church, museums, food, "charming R.L.D.". The book was right on. Hotel: stayed at the Amadeaus for 4 days. Free breakfast every day is ham slices, cheese slices, melba toast, juice, coffee. Gets a little boring after two days. Also, don't expect round-the-clock concierge service. The front desk shuts down in the early evening. Ask for their city map at the front desk. Stay away from Amsterdam on Queensday (a 10 minute walk will take 3 hours because the crowds are so thick) AND the day after (litter so thick you couldn't see the cobblestones in the street -- must have been SOME party). I thought I read in Rick's books not to dress down in Europe -- you'd stand out. Not true, IMHO. Thanks, Rick.
Mike
Naperville, IL USA Sat 05/22/2004
Amsterdam
I went to Amsterdam for 3 days in March. I stayed at Hotel Brouwer near Jordaan area. So quiet and pretty. Room slanted towards canal but expected this. Unfortunately the bikes made a lot racked on the cobblestones. You have a key to sidedoor and room and good elevator. I am not vegetarian but loved the Vegetarian restaurant De Bolhoed which was packed on a monday night so they asked a woman who was from Belgium to share her table and we talked and had a great time. Also ate at Cafe Restaurast de Reiger, Long Pura Indonesien( major yum!) great pubs everywher and 2 on Singel canal were awesome. Also went Diamond shopping at Amstel Diamonds ( flyer in hotel). had a great time walking and in Van Gogh museum in my second trip to Amsterdam
Carolyn
naples, Italy Thu 05/20/2004
Haarlem tips
We just returned from our trip which ended with a stay in Haarlem - a great choice! Thanks Rick. We found it relaxed and very easy to access Amsterdam from (but spent more time in Haarlem!).
Anyway, if you are planning to stay in Haarlem make sure to include a Saturday as the Grote Kerk square (and side streets)fills with a fun market from about 9am to 5pm sharp. Just about the entire town comes out and it's a cool experience.
Also, if you are going between Haarlem and the airport, there's a great express-style bus (#300) that runs from Haarlem Central Train Station directly to Schipol. It costs 7 strips one-way, and runs about every 15min even on weekends. It also stops right in front of the V&D dept store which is closer to Grote Kerk. It's easier than rail because there isn't a direct train from Haarlem (you have to change).
One other thing; rent bikes! It's very easy & fun!
Ron
Woodinville, Wa USA Sat 05/15/2004
Carnegie Cottage between Arnhem & Apeldoorn
We stayed in a terrific little hotel called the Carnegie Cottage located in Otterlo. While there we visited Het Lo Palace, the National Park de Hoge with the Kroller Muller Museum and the hunting lodge and the free white bikes, and the Open Air Museum in Arnhem. Our rooms were truly spacious and delightfully decorated. We were right on the edge of the park and could walk right in. This was a nice quiet respite from the hustle & bustle of Amsterdam.
Leonard Fabian
Oregon, WI USA Fri 05/14/2004
brussels and brugge
went on a holiday weekend and there was a huge stage in the grand place in Brussels. The old men of yesteryears are rolling in their graves! what a terrble way to ruin the only place I wanted to enjoy there.there was broken glass all over the streets Get over the frites they are the same as here.dont stay at the hotel Mozart unless you want to get into political disussions on Bush and certain ethnic groups etc. Brugge was a delight.Another stage on the square in Brugge.What are they thinking? Rent a bike it is a the only way to go!!! ride to Damme for a toile-like views.guy at the station tried to rip us off for the already paid supplement on the Thaylis.Watch out
greg
fl USA Wed 05/12/2004
Bruges
Just returned from a first trip to Bruges (and Paris & London). Taking the Eurostar from London to Brussels was very easy but when we arrived at the Brussels train station there was NO mention of Bruges train on the board of arrivals and departures. We panicked for a few minutes and then found someone that told us to look for the the connection to Knokke. Sure enough, when you get to the actual platform for Knokke, it says Bruges, but not down in the main terminal! If you come to Brussels on Eurostar of Thalys your connecting train to anywhere in Belgium is free.
We stayed at the Absoluut Verhulst B&B and would recommend it HIGHLY! Benno & Frieda were extremely gracious, thoughtful hosts. The breakfast was truly amazing. Since our second day was cold and rainy, we enjoyed curling up with a good book and enjoying the B&B. A much better value than London.
We walked all over and saw the major sites, windmills, canals, churches, the Burg & Markt Square. It was a nice, slower pace break between London and Paris, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
I had read that there weren't very many ATM's in Bruges, but we found several and had no problems. There is one right next to the Post Office on the Markt Square.
Due to very cold, rainy weather, we did not ride the canal or rent bikes, but it was still a great experience.
We ate at the Hobbit restaurant--great all you can eat ribs and salad for 13 euros. (Not the messy barbecue ribs we are used to in the US--but good flavor). Evidentally you cannot order tap water in Bruges so drinks were expensive. Dumon chocolates was excellent and we bought an 8.50 euro box to take with us. Beautifully made and great taste! We enjoyed watching the lace makers and their incredible patience.
J Abbott
Siloam Springs, AR USA Wed 05/12/2004
Just Desserts
Generally speaking, it is never proper to request only dessert in a restaurant. You should look for a more casual café or brasserie type of establishment. Restaurants expect diners to order full meals.
Al
USA Tue 05/11/2004
"Dessert only" sometimes a no-no in Bruges
My husband and I were vacationing in Bruges (my second time there). On our third night we had a lovely dinner but were too full for dessert. On the long walk back to our hotel in the unusually freezing April weather we got our appetites back and decided to stop for dessert. We passed a restaurant that we never went to before but was recommended by our hotel staff. It was an hour before closing time and the restaurant was half empty so we decided to go in for dessert, coffee and possibly a drink. There were some great sounding desserts on the menu posted out front so we walked inside. A gracious woman (speaking perfect English) started to show us to a table and reached for menus. I said "we'd just like to have dessert, please" At that her demeanor changed and she started shouting at us "Dessert?!! You want dessert?!! This is restaurant - a RESTAURANT!!!!" We were embarrassed as she and a gentleman literally walked us to the door and slammed it behind us like we were some rifraff. To this day I have not been able to see any mention of this faux pas in a guidebook and am left really wondering.............(we were too embarrassed to remember the name of the restaurant)
k
NY, NY USA Tue 05/11/2004
Bruges, Belgium - Restaurant
There is a very good restaurant in Bruges to check out. It's the Brasserie Erasmus at Wollestraat 35. They have a great waterzooi(fish stew)and a very good selection of beer.
Robert MacNamara
Waltham, MA USA Sat 05/08/2004
Amsterdam & Brugge
Amsterdam: Our 8 days in mid-April were wonderful, thanks to Rick's advice on services and sites to see. Our favorite a little cafe for supper and a great place to sit outdoors by a canal was Spanjer & van Twist. Walk along the canal away from the Westerkirk (church), past the Ann Frank House. Less than 2 minutes walking will take you to a small bridge where two canals meet. From the bridge, you can see the cafe on your right (marked by a green round sign) serving outdoor tables located at the bridge. The owner (Carlos) and staff were very helpful in describing the day's menu, as well as suggesting beers to sip while enjoying the sunset. Suppers were excellent. Four of our evenings began here, watching tour boats and other craft maneuver into the small canal. We followed with leisurely walks around the Jordaan area. Photo hint: The bridge and canal lights come on at dusk. For 10 - 15 minutes there is still enough light in the sky to shoot great postcard shots. Later, the buildings, boats, etc. will be less visible in your in photos.
The Van Onna Hotel was clean and quite (no TV or phone in room) with very nice staff. We recommend for price and location in the Jordaan. The only slight negative was the lack of variety in breakfasts (same each day).
Viewing the city from the Westerkirk tower is well worth the effort, but groups were limited to only 5 visitors each half hour. Tickets could not be reserved or purchased ahead of time, so a wait in line was required. Formerly, group size was 25 people. If this policy remains in place, only 75 people per day will climb the tower.
We walked past the Ann Frank House many times, seeing long lines, tour bus crowds, etc. Definitely, visit late in the day when most tourists have moved on. We walked right in on Saturday evening and were almost alone in our quite walk through the site.
Rick's day-tripping suggestions by train or bus were very easy to follow. English is widely spoken and everyone seems very helpful and friendly. The Alkmaar cheese market (Fridays) was very crowded (hundreds of tourists), while Zaanse Schans, Volendam and Marken were touristy, but hey, we're tourists! All were fun to see. Our "Don't miss" for April was Keukenhof Gardens which was in full bloom. Took train to Leiden and bought Bus/Keukenhof ticket outside train station.
Brugge: Thanks to Rick, we stayed in the Debruyne B & B, and highly recommend it. Marie- Rose and Ronny were terrific hosts, our room was large, as was the bathroom, and the neighborhood is very quite. Each morning, Marie-R's trip to a bakery and grocery resulted in our enjoying a first-rate breakfast with many choices. They recommended the nearby Tom's Diner for supper; and we concur. It is a small candle-lite restaurant serving gourmet meals. Another "Don't miss" in Brugge was renting bicycles to ride along the canal to Damme and beyond. Even if you've not been on a bike in years, do take this easy trip. Ride on the right side of the canal for the best view. There are only a few ATM's in Brugge. The one on the Market Square is easily found and seems to be constantly busy (line of 5 or more people). When you face the Bell Tower on the square, look to your left for a "De Post" sign. The ATM is located there.
A nice afternoon beer stop is the Straffe Hendrik Brewery. The tour of the facility is interesting, but not required. Just go in and order a brew (2 euros) to be enjoyed in their restaurant or patio.
Thanks to all who post on Rick's website. We have used your suggestions in France and Italy, and now the Netherlands and Belgium. Best source on info on the Internet.
Dave
Springfield, IL USA Thu 05/06/2004
Amsterdam Hotel Rho
Two daughters, 22 & 16, and myself visited Amsterdam March 9-16, 2004. Of the 5 books we purchased, Rick Steves book was most used, and we did 'take it along'! Invaluable!
This was my second trip after many years, and after staying near the Van Gogh museum the first time, I looked for a hotel in the Dam square area -- and found Hotel Rho. What a super hotel! We had a special requirement of needing a triple room, not available everywhere. We were given a very reasonable rate. The rooms were tidy, quiet, and the breakfast was a huge buffet of yogurt, eggs, bacon, breads, cheeses, meats, cereals, fresh squeezed orange juice, and all the 'fixins'. We ate a hearty breakfast and were satisfied until dinner late afternoon!
Hotel Rho is on Nes just steps (literally, about 15') off Dam square. Nearby were the Royal Palace, Kalverstraat, Trams, Train station, Red Light District (gotta see it once), and all the museums just a short walk or a tram ride away. The desk clerks were so helpful. Mostly Europeans were staying here.
We took a side trip to Haarlem, and wished we had stayed there 1-2 nights. What a beautiful, slow paced little town with great shopping, VERY reasonable eating places, and friendly people.
Read incessently before your trip -- you will never regret preparing well. Thank you for the encouragement Rick!
Linda, Tracy & Fawn
Eagle Lake, MN
Linda, Tracy & Fawn
Eagle Lake, MN USA Mon 04/26/2004
Great Hotel in Amsterdam - Well Priced, Great Location
My family and I wanted to stay in Amsterdam with only a Haarlem budget, and finding a room for four happened to be a challenge. I stumbled upon Hotel Piet Hein on line and did some research. It seemed nice, reasonable, and in a good location. The site had photos, but I've learned that these could be greatly exaggerated. Bottom line: we were very pleased. Hotel is behind PC Hoofstraat (very fancy shopping street), faces Vondelpark, and is no more than five minutes from the Leidseplein area. The hotel's website is www.hotelpiethein.com.
Also, in the Leidseplein a great ice cream and dessert place is Australian. Buy some chocolates there - yum!!!
Alan Sheptin
New York, NY USA Mon 04/26/2004
Bruges,Belgium
Bruges is a great city to visit. The B+B VanNevel was the best place that I stayed. It's a superb value. It's in Rick's guide. A bicycle ride to Damme on a good day is a must. As far as negative comments, avoid at all costs the Dell' Arte Tea Room Restaurant on Vlamingstraat. The manager is surly and his wait-staff is almost as arrogant. They treat people with disdain. Don't go in to check the specials on the chalk board half-way back in the restaurant. The manager may just decide to mock you as he talks with his staff! This place isn't in Rick's guide, and I hope it's never included.
Bob Ford
Boston, MA USA Sat 04/24/2004
Bruges
The Quasimondo bike tour to Damme was advertised at 12 euros with the RS book (normally 18 Euros). That's incorrect. The guy wanted 15 and was irritated with Rick that the price in the book was wrong. It was a great bike ride with a knowledgable guide from
Belgium. Well worth taking. Brugges was wonderful, two full days of sightseeing, a third would be nice if you have lots of time. Two great art museums, a Michelangelo in the church, a nice monestary and pretty canals with guided tours. We stayed at the Dieltens Bed and Breakfast. Nice place, within short walking distance to everything (5 min walk). It was quiet there as well. Good breakfast, lots of carbs, and only served for one hour (8:30 to 9:30). If you wanted breakfast before or after this you were out of luck. Pleasant hosts. Good coffee, they speak at least 3 different languages fluently. No clean towels every day, and the cleaning lady who came into the room rearranged the towels, so we did not know whose towel this is. Those are minor negatives. Comfortable beds.
This is our 4th trip using RS books. I prefer to travel less, stay in each place longer and really enjoy it. We spent a few days in Brussels as well. Good times there. Radisson SAS gave a excellent weekend rate, with fabulous breakfast.
Greta Larsson
Milwaukee, WI USA Fri 04/23/2004
highlights in Bruges
Just wanted to offer a third (or more) positive review for the Marieke Bed and Breakfast (http://users.belgacom.net/marieke. Just two rooms, so you will have to be early or lucky to stay there. Also, the Brugges bike tour with Quasimundo Tours (http://www.quasimundo.com) was great. Very easy cycling (even with a toddler on the back of one bike), fun guide, nice info., pretty route. In fact, renting a bicycle for longer would have been a very fun way to get around town. The belfry tower is quite a climb, but there are three resting points along the way.
Karen <email>
Belgium now, USA Fri 04/23/2004
Amsterdam Highlights
I just got back from a fabulous extended weekend in Amsterdam. Rick's recommended sites didn't disappoint. Don't miss the Resistance Museum or the Van Gogh Museum.
Delft is a good side-trip. Do the self-guided tour of the factory rather than wait for the guided tour. The licensed Royal Delft shops all sell at MSRP (as does the factory, except for "seconds"), so shop based on selection. Ask the factory store how to detect a "second."
Boom Chicago is very funny and well worth it. I saw a sneak preview of their latest show "Why Aren't You Happy" (audience participation required - you have been warned). Their magazine seems to be where Rick gets much of his info about Amsterdam.
Finally, read the guidebook before you go to Haarlem. Pretty much the whole place is closed on Mondays. More is open in Amsterdam.
KPO'M
UK 04/12/04
Hotel Pacific, Brussels
Hotel Pacific in Brussels will close in May 2004 per Paul, the current lease holder. We stayed there in Mar 04. We had a marvelous time in Brussels, in many ways due to his kind assistance and recommendations.
Robert Walk
Springfield, VA USA 04/06/04
Belgium
We visited Brussels and Bruges in late February. In Brussels we stayed at www.brusselsbedandbreakfast-not in Rick's book, no breakfast, just coffee, but well situated in the heart of the city near the Central train station. Glad we saw Brussels, but saw everything we wanted in 1 day/1 night.
We stayed at Absolut Verhulst in Bruges for 4 nights, and it was the best! We got a good price on the suite, and Frieda and Benno were delightful hosts. Their breakfasts were wonderful and filled us up until mid-afternoon. Their b/b is well situated for easy walking assess to both squares. Benno even drove us to the train station when our taxi got delayed in traffic! We used Rick's book and tried 4 different places for dinners while there, and all hit the mark in terms of price and taste.
The city was much busier on the weekend than during the week in late February, but we enjoyed no lines anywhere. There is plenty to see and do in Bruges.
We had planned to do the Quasimodo "Triple Treat" tour on Monday when many stores/museums are closed. Unfortunately they had to cancel that morning when we were the only ones signed up. They would have taken just the two of us, but the establishments wouldn't open without four people.
Don't overlook Belgium-good food, sights, and friendly people.
S Norton
Kirkland, WA USA 03/21/04
Amsterdam and Hotel Keizershof
We had an excellent trip for 5 nights in Amsterdam between february 9th and 14th, 2004. Rick's
amsterdam, bruges and belgium book was very helpful. We enjoyed our stay at Hotel Keizershof; location
on Keizersgracht was very convenient. We were given pleasant attention by owners Mary
(mom) DeVries and her daughter
Hanneke. Rooms were cute and clean
and named after classic Hollywood stars. Big breakfast daily in large
family room. Cereal, toast, fruit, milk, cheese, hot rolls, coffee, tea, juice, cookies ......
more than enough to sustain you!
omelets as an optional tasty breakfast treat too. Hanneke was nice to recommend to to us to go to visit Haarlem and Zaanse Schaans
and the Jordaan as well as to get
a museum pass. Mary was nice to
direct us to the nearby bank for Atm and money exchange and the nearby laundry to wash clothes.
We will definitely stay at Hotel
Keizershof when we go back to amsterdam next year!
...we had nice meals at Sama Sebo
(indonesian rice table) not far from the Rijksmuseum and at the
Pancake Bakery located at Prinsengracht 191, same road that Anne Frank house is on. Also very
enjoyable walking thru the albert cuyp street market; taking a canal boat ride; walking thru the floating flower market; and seeing a comedy show at Boom Chicago on Leidseplein. Be sure to get directions from Mary or Hanneke at
Hotel Keizershof to get to Jolly Hotel Carlton for airport shuttle.
only takes 5 or 6 minutes to walk from Keizershof to Jolly Hotel.
one way ticket cost 10 euro per person. Jolly hotel has schedules
for the shuttle in their lobby and
you can buy tickets at the main
hotel desk. easier than using the tram or bus or paying cab prices
to get back to the airport with all
your bags. Happy Travels :-)
Peter and Malinda Heeran <email>
Albany, NY USA 03/17/04
Flying Pig Hostel -- AWFUL!
Hello, all. I just wanted to post this information on Amsterdam. I visited about 2-1/2 years ago and made the BIG MISTAKE of staying at the Flying Pig Hostel. Dumpy, dirty, and I had the privilege of having a mouse in my suitcase on the second night. ABSOLUTELY AWFUL! The comments re: smoking have been covered by others -- I'm just another person who enjoyed a few days of Real freedom in Amsterdam.
Peace and (like Rick says) Keep Traveling!
Bonnie, Ukiah, CA (northern CA)
Bonnie
Ukiah, CA USA 03/15/04
Hotel Keizershof
Just wanted to report that we had a good experience at the Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam as opposed to the report from another traveller "down the page." Yes, the spiral stairs are steep and challenging, but I am pretty sure that the RS Amsterdam book points that fact out (gave my copy away so I can't confirm it). For the centralized and quiet canal location, we thought the price was excellent, and I would not describe the condition as rundown at all. Great breakfast served in the garden. I would definitely stay here again.
john russell <email>
charlottesville, va USA 03/08/04
Hotel un-Welcome
They were doing work on the stairs, so that made each trip up to our room interesting. They ran out of bath towels and could only provide hand towels. The restaaurant was closed. They charged us for an extra day after we checked out. Other than that we really enjoyed it, well, except for the mountain of garbage always at the front door.
Tom Tapscott <email>
Durham, NC USA 02/27/04
Amsterdam
We followed Rick's advice on finding an Indonesian restraurant in Amsterdam--it
was excellent--had the traditional "Ristofel". One of Rick's suggested hotel
was a big disappointment--cannot recomment the Keiserhoff there. Steep spiral
staircase to reach the third floor. A bit overpriced and run down as well.
When we checked out, to our dismay, the room cost was higher than the original
agreement. We made copies but this was packed away and we were in a rush
to catch a train to Paris. From this experience we now always have copies
at hand to present in case of such a dispute over price.
Susan <email>
Atl, Ga USA 02/19/04
Bruges
W e are just back from 4 nights in Bruges. Stayed at Dieltiens B&B and
we were very pleased. Annemie and Koen were very nice hosts. Our room
had windows to open for fresh air and old hardwood floors plus a small
bathroom, hairdryer, alarm clock and coffeemaker. Very nice. We received
a more than adequate breakfast to sustain us. We asked for food suggestions
and Annemie took the time to give us a local map which she marked with
about 7 places for lunch or dinner.
Don't miss out on Bistro de Bekoring for a nice dinner splurge. The Hobbit was also worth it for their humorous menu and tasty spareribs. Also not to be missed are 't brugs Beertje, de Garre, and the Straffe Hendrik tour. The 5 museums for 15 euros is a budget must for visting Rick's recommended sights. The Chocolate Line and Dumon chocolate shops were both worth it for their different chocolates and different atmospheres.
Bruges was a nice town to just
stroll and peek around. Many parts had a hidden feel to them on those
great cobblestone streets. That was likely helped because we were there
off season. We walked to the windmills by the moat that Rick mentions
and had the area to ourselves early on a Sunday morning. It was easy to
enjoy outselves in Bruges and so easy to get around. It's a very walkable
town. Iinternet cafe right across from church of our lady entrance was
reasonable for both coffee and beer while you check your email. Go and
enjoy Bruges.
Peter & Malinda Heeran <email>
Albany, NYy USA 02/18/04
Hotel Brouwer (Amsterdam)
I stayed at Hotel Brouwer for five days in December 03 and had a wonderful
time. I had a single room w/ private bath; everything was clean, cozy, and
comfortable (unlike the German hotels I stayed at later in my trip, which
were also Rick's recommendations). The proprietor, Colleen, was extremely
gracious and helpful through my entire stay. She even found me a box and
helped me pack up a parcel to send back to the US on my last day there (while
handling 8+ other people during the breakfast rush). I would definitely
stay there again.
Christine <email>
Sunnyvale, CA USA 01/28/04
Delft and other Dutch gems
When traveling in Holland be sure to consider Delft. It is only an hour
away from Amsterdam by train. It is a quiet, lovely town with many small
canals and bridges, great food, and very friendly people. I was so glad
that we stayed there rather than in larger towns like Amsterdam. I highly
recommend Hotel de Kok - great, family run Hotel right by the train station
(rooms to the back do get train noise). I also recommend a visit to Gouda.
Great cheese, yes, and also beautiful church windows from 1500's that have
survived to this day. Also one of the last clay pipe-makers in Holland has
a shop with interesting pottery - well worth a visit. For a real feel of
Holland don't leave out these little gems!
Craig Sale <email>
Schaumburg, IL USA 01/03/04
Brussels
We recently spent several days in Brussels and stayed at the Hotel Welcome.
There were several of us and each room was a lot of fun to see. Due to complications
we had to change rooms once so my wife and I had the pleasure of enjoying
two of the rooms. The owneres were very nice and quite helpful in many ways
and would encourage all to stay there.
Danny Agee <email>
McDonough, ga USA 12/29/03
Luxembourg
Please add Luxembourg into your guidebook. We spent 3 nights there in August
2003 and loved it! We stayed at the Hotel Francais in Place de Arms. It
was wonderful! Luxembourg is very metropolitan, with great museums. We took
a day trip to see the many chateaus just outside the city and took a day
trip to Verdun in France.
Ashley
Oldsmar, FL USA 12/25/03
Benelux hotels
I loved the Hotel Welcome in Brussels, but the Japan room is not for those
who dislike stairs. Thanks to those who recommended the Marieke B&B (http://users.belgacom.net/marieke/)
-- Trees and her husband really looked after me, and the restaurants round
the corner were good. In Delft I can recommend the Bridges House Hotel (http://www.bridges-house.nl/eng/1.htm)
-- great canal-side location, friendly owner, comfortable beds and wonderful
big bath tubs to thaw out in. Delft has a big Saturday flea market (get
up early Sunday to take pictures) and is convenient for visiting Rotterdam.
I stayed at the Prinsenhof in Amsterdam -- I couldn't get a room at the
Brouwer even booking two months ahead. Good location: tram stop steps away
and I found a good Indonesian restaurant (the Tuju Maret) round the corner.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA 12/21/03
Another vote for Luxembourg
I spent a week in Luxembourg in September and loved it. Luxembourg City
may have the most dramatic site of any capital city anywhere -- and don't
miss the surprising City History Museum. But the countryside is the real
charmer. Recommendations -- any walk in the "Little Switzerland" area; driving
the N27 to Esche-sur-Sure; the Bisdorff Hotel in Berdorf (http://www.hotel-bisdorff.lu/)
-- wonderful food, quiet location, the demi-pension is a real deal; the
Chateaux Beaufort and Vianden. Be aware -- some hotels close one day a week,
reserve ahead; a little French or German comes in handy in the countryside;
a car is worthwile -- rent the car in Germany (Trier is right on the border)
but buy gas in Luxembourg; the Chateaux Bourscheid looks wonderful from
a distance, but is less so inside. More details on my website -- http://wilhelmswords.com/faq/index.html
-- Loving Luxembourg
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA 12/21/03
Amsterdam Transport
There's a new service in Amsterdam
called "Opstapper," which provides an extremely convenient way to travel
up and down Prinsengracht. Simply hop on at any point along the route
(which goes from Central Station, along Prinsengracht to Waterlooplein),
pay the standard fare (two strippenkaart strips) and you'll be let off
anywhere at all along the route. Very convenient for visiting such sights
as the Anne Frank house.
Peter
Amsterdam, Netherlands 12/21/03
Farewell to M. Pauwels & the Hotel Pacific
Rick's books are great! I have planned trips for myself with friends and
family, and always turn to Rick first. On a less happy note, we are all
losing a great friend and place to stay at the end of this month. The Hotel
Pacific in Brussels is closing because M. Paul Pauwels has lost the lease
on the building. I spoke with him last month when I was there, and he is
naturally very sad about closing.
Linda <email>
TX USA 12/05/03
Amsterdam, Brussels, Brugge
Recently we spent 8 days in mid-November visiting Amsterdam, Brussels & Brugge. The information and tips from Rick's book as well as at the Graffiti
Wall were very helpful.
We purchased 1 month, 5 travel days, 2nd class Benelux rail passes before leaving the USA at www.raileurope.com for $122 USD per pass (plus shipping). We probably didn't save any over what it would have cost to buy point to point tickets after arrival, but the pass was easy and convenient to use, plus it was nice to have that expense out of the way. Traveling by train was pretty easy and efficient; we didn't take the Thalys and didn't have any problems without advance seat reservations.
Checking schedules before hand at the Dutch and Belgian railway websites was very helpful in planning. http://www.ns.nl/domestic/index.cgi and http://www.b-rail.be/E/index.php. Be sure to take note of the final destination, as Brussels and Brugge are often NOT the final destinations. Since we arrived at 9 am, we decided to catch a train right away from the Amsterdam Schiphol airport to Brussels (about 3 hours by rail). Probably should have gone clear to Brugge, another hour, then started working our way back to Amsterdam.
Based on a post on this site, we stayed at the NH Grand Place Arenberg in Brussels, 70 euro per night, double including all taxes. Room rates are normally much higher, we booked the discounted price at this website: http://b2b.ratestogo.com/. It covers numerous European cities, however, you can only make reservations 20 days or less in advance. Excepting that our room was on the small side, we agree with previous comments about this hotel: great location, some nice amenities, skip the expensive hotel breakfast.
A prior post complained about the Belgian/Dutch beer tasting too sweet. My experience was that beer with a high alcohol content (6.5% and up) and their dark, bok (bock) beers did tend to be sweeter tasting than what you usually find in the USA, and much sweeter than a typical British ale or Irish stout. On the other hand, the pilsners and 'blond' beers were not sweet. They are all really good beers, sweet or otherwise, just have to keep tasting and testing to find what you like best!
We recommend Charlotte & Erik's bed and breakfast in Brugge (www.etimmerman.be.tf). It's about a 15 minute walk from the train station, and little out of the core tourist area (which makes it nice and quiet), but still only a 10 minute walk to the market square. The B&B is a newly renovated house (Oct. 2003), for the exclusive use of the guests. It's just across the narrow street from Charlotte & Erik's home. Non-smoking, except in the courtyard. Ground floor has a kitchen, dining table, and small sitting area with a TV and a courtyard. There's also a shared toilet on this level. On the 2nd floor, there are two large rooms that each have an ensuite shower and sink. One room has a queen bed, the other has 2 twins. There is another shared toilet on this floor. On the 3rd floor is a smaller room with doubled bed, but no shower. There aren't any views to speak of from the rooms but that wasn't an issue for us. Our rate was 50 euro/night double including tax and an ample breakfast – coffee/tea, cheese, fresh bread, jams, muesli, yogurt and juice. The whole place is also available to rent for longer stays. For more B&B choices in Brugge, check www.brugge.be/verblijf/en/gastene.htm
We also highly recommend the Amsterdam Lodge B&B, located in the Jordaan area of Amsterdam (www.amsterdamlodge.com), operated by Bas & Anita. It is also a newly renovated flat (June 2003) occupied exclusively by the guests. It is a one flight walk up to the spacious living/dining/kitchen and Ivy room. The Red & Blue rooms are on the 3rd floor. (1st & 2nd floors by European count). We stayed in the Ivy room, 105 euro per night, double, including breakfast and all taxes. That room is somewhat small, but attractively furnished and has a private toilet, sink and shower ensuite. The Red and Blue rooms are quite spacious and equally nicely furnished. The private bathroom for the Red room is not ensuite, but nearby. The Blue room and its huge ensuite bathroom are worth the few extra euros.
Bas and Anita are very friendly and helpful in suggesting restaurants, sightseeing and can give you an excellent city map. There is a computer with free high speed Internet connection available. The premises are non-smoking, but you can smoke in the courtyard. Breakfast consisted of coffee or tea, fresh bread and croissants, jams, peanut butter, muesli and/or sweetened granola, orange juice and boiled egg if desired. As others have mentioned, the Jordaan is the best neighborhood to stay in while visiting Amsterdam – clean, quiet, safe, good eating and drinking and reasonable walking distance to the main attractions.
Julie & Richard <email>
Boulder, CO USA 11/30/03
Brugge
I enthustiastically concur with Rick's endorsement of the Flanders Fields
Minibus tour conducted by Frank Varenne. Don't be deterred by the 59 Euros.
It is a great value. My friend and I took this tour in mid-October. We were
the only people on the tour. We learned so much, not only about World War
I, but about Belgium. ("A Belgian is born with a brick in his stomach.")
Our tour included a lunch and a beer break, as well as admission to the
Flanders Fields Museum. This was one of the highlights of our trip to Holland,
Belgium, and France. Thanks, Frank, and thanks, Rick.
Richard <email>
Sacramento, CA USA 11/28/03
Amsterdam, Bruges and Brussels
Rick's book was right on! We followed his suggestions everywhere we went.
The Amadeus Hotel in Haarlem was made more fun by Mike and Inez (pronounced
EYE-nez). We used it as a base and traveled to most of the towns in the
guide book comfortably by train. The trams were a great value as were the
busses; the taxi's were very clean but over priced and took a long time
to arrive. I would like to spend at least two days in Bruges next time;
there is a lot to see and photograph(and eat). Remember to take the bus
to Schiphol airport as the trains have have been known to have local gangs
praying on travelers. Also, try to exchange your dollars for Euros at the
Post Office; their rates are by far the best.
Robert Moore <email>
Tulsa, OK USA 11/23/03
Bruges
We went in early November, so it wasn't crowded and air-conditioning wasn't
an issue for us. Stayed three nights, and we liked the town as a restful
and logistically manageable alternative to some of the bigger cities. We
also went with another couple who had made most of the plans: thus my vagueness
on some of the names and places.
Stayed at Chris Deloof's B&B. Good breakfast and enjoyed other guests. Chris, a caring hostess, was very helpful about recommending restaurants, but many were closed during this time (it being "low season"). Still, we recommend listening to her suggestions because most of the other restaurants we looked at were overpriced. The B&B itself we found to be a mixed bag. Good value but our friends were not happy with their arrangement. They had a sink and shower in their room but no toilet (shared, across the hall, and rug that smelled of urine). Our room was in the attic and the stairs are very steep for anyone who is not pretty agile. It was cold for two days before someone thought to turn on the heat and the bed was not very comfortable. However, for only 53 euros a night, it was a good price. It depends on your tolerance for discomfort. Mine, frankly, is pretty low.
We learned a bit about Bruges lace (the real stuff, not the tourist stuff) from a small shop on Philipstockstraat (take it east from the main market square). I think it's in the middle of the second block or so from the square on the left side of the road. She carries the tourist stuff but also the genuine article (expensive!). A tip-off that this is the right shop is that she has 19th century lace for sale. Also on Philipstockstraat, nearly across the street from the lace shop, is a shop with Ukraine-made art objects. Wonderful little place. Got a beautiful tea set for 30 euros. What a find!
Our friends found a restaurant, La Noche, off the beaten track but well within walking distance of the main market square. From the square take Wollestraat (turns into Eekhoutstr. and then Garenmarkt). Not sure how far you go, but it turns into a residential neighborhood with no surrounding stores and you think you've left the restaurants behind. Suddenly on your left is this little place with excellent food and service. It's about 10 minutes or less from the main market square.
Now for the ugly. There are several boat rentals,
so I want to be clear about this one. The ticket booth is stationed right
next to a delightful chocolate shop (which we liked). We THINK the streets
are Steenhouwersdijk where it meets Blinde Ezelstr., which crosses the
canal at that point. First, the ticket seller tried to tell our friends
that they had given him a 10 Euro bill instead of a 20 Euro bill. It was
a nasty argument and the ticket seller said something about how Americans
are "always getting ripped off" (implying that we lie a lot about it).
As if that wasn't enough, when our friends asked the boat driver whether
the tour was in English, he said, "Since that's the only language you
speak, that's what it will be." Then he proceeded to deliver his spiel
in such an exaggerated monotone that I'm sure he was doing it on purpose.
The only time he was the slightest bit animated was when he was taking
additional potshots at Americans. Couched as humor, these remarks clearly
had serious intent behind them. I did not find it humorous and let him
know it. Stay away from these guys. Most people are friendly and helpful;
no need to put up with this nonsense.
Jeannie C. <email>
Austin, TX USA 11/08/03
Luxembourg
I agree with some of the other comments, Luxembourg should definitely be
added to your Amsterdam, Bruges and Brussels book. I just recently spent
a long weekend in Luxembourg and part of Belgium (having moved to Rotterdam
in The Netherlands six months ago) and my husband and I were so impressed
with the country, how beautiful it is and the great sites/attractions. To
list just a few - Luxembourg City and the scenic towns of Vianden, Wiltz
and Esch Sur Sure.
One other great thing I highly recommend is to visit the "Family of Man"
exhibit in Clervaux. It is an exhibit of approximately 500 black and white
photographs assembled back in the 1950's by Edward Steichen, a photographer
born in Luxembourg but spent most of his life in the United States. This
exhibit debuted at the NYC Museum of Modern Art, travelled around the
world, and is now housed permanently here. The exhibit has receive approximately
9 million visitors, and even though these photographs were taken so long
ago, they are so timeless and have quite a bit of meaning today.
Marci Goldberg <email>
Rotterdam, USA 10/29/03
Brugge
On a recent trip to Brugge, I found some of Rick's tips to be very helpful.
Unable to get a reservation at Absoluut Verhulst B&B, I stayed at the Hotel
Cordoeanier (mentioned below on this board). It's a very good deal at 52
euro a night, considering Brugge is full of fairly expensive hotels. Great
breakfasts (fresh bread, cheese and cold cuts, etc), and very centrally
located. Rooms a bit on the plain side (but were very quiet - a huge plus).
One caveat: while they provide phones in rooms, they do *not* allow calls
out using either phone cards (0800) or calling cards such as AT&T access
numbers. Basically, the only use for the phone is to make local calls to
make dinner reservations. There is a pay phone about 40 yards from the hotel,
but it's something of a pain when you requre a phone at odd hours to call
the States.
Couple of restaurants were of note: Rick's suggestion for D'Koetse (sp?) was very nice. Also recommend Bistro Den Huzaar on Jacobstraat just north of the Markt. Had 2 wonderful meals there, including a big bucket of mussels et frites for 17eu. Took me nearly an hour to finish them! Don't go just *anywhere* for mussels - you may not get the quality you'd like. Avoid the Squares.
And unlike the poster below who claimed the "beer
is too sweet" or whatever, I found (and find) Belgian beers to be very
flavorful and served w/a degree of care and pride not seen elsehwere in
Europe. Recommend t'brugse beertje for a wide selection and atmosphere.
De Garre also is a lovely spot to sit down and contemplate a fine glass
of beer. The owner (Carl) and brother Frederich are both very helpful
and the atmosphere very laid back. Another spot on the Markt Square -
Craeneburg cafe is also a great spot to grab a seat to people watch. Most
of the sights can be seen in a day, but I recommend giving it 2 or even
3 (as I did) to really explore.... and you don't even have to do the "tourist
thing" to really enjoy Brugge.
Ken <email>
Westchester, CA USA 10/27/03
Amsterdam
Just returned from a five day visit to Amsterdam. I stayed at Frederics
Rent a Bike and Frederic and his staff could not have been more friendly
or helpful. Great tips on restaurants and bars, convenient location close
to the train station and the Jordaan, clean room and the price was reasonable.
You HAVE to rent a bike in Amsterdam to really experience the city. No problems
at all pedaling home in the wee hours, you see many people doing the same
thing.
Jim
LA, Ca USA 10/26/03
Amsterdam
We thought that the Hotel Brouwer (Singel 83) was a fantastic location,
convenient to all the central Amsterdam activities but also close to the
Joordan neighborhood, where we found a quainter, quieter, much less-touristed
environment. Our room looked out over two canals, facing west - we got an
incredible picture of the canal lights with the setting sun behind! There
was quite a bit of noise from the street, especially from some late night
revelers, but we'd just take ear-plugs next time.
Worth mentioning is the Oud Holland Restaurant (Voorburgwal 105) - we
went there one night when the restaurant that we were headed to was closed.
Good food and VERY reasonable prices (two dinners and a bottle of wine
for 34 euro)...packed with locals the night that we went, which is always
a good sign, especially in this very central part of Amsterdam.
Ken <email>
Naples, FL USA 10/10/03
Amsterdam and Bruges
Amsterdam- Stayed in Hotel Hegra. Rooms were small, but adequate. Steps
are very, very steep and narrow. Found a nice Chinese restaurant that had
very good food at reasonable prices - New Season at 39 Warmoesstraat (not
far from the Red Light District). They give the ladies a rose after the
meal.
Bruges- Stayed at Chris Deloof's B&B and it was fine. Breakfasts were
very good and had some great conversations with the other guests. Recommend
Kettings for bike rentals - $5/day. The bike ride to Damme along the canal
is the best. In fact, you can easily bike into Netherlands to a small
town (Sluis) just across the border from Belgium. A restaurant that Steve
recommends and I agree is the Hobbit. Their "all you can eat" ribs are
delicious and almost everyone was ordering them.
D. Ryan <email>
Pitman, NJ USA 09/23/03
Brussels and Bruges
A couple of notes to those going to Brussels or Bruges. We had great luck
following all of the guidebook's recommendations for a one day visit in
each city. My only problem with the book is the maps aren't really accurate,
so get a better map from somewhere. They are free at the train station and
most hotels. If you go in September, expect crowds in resturants and the
major tourist sites.
Resturants: In Brussels, one of the recommended resturants (L'Estrille du Vieux Bruxelles) has closed. A la Mort Subite is an awesome place to drink Belgian beer.
Hotels: We couldn't book any recommend hotels in either city, so stayed at the NH Grand Place Arenberg in Brussels. It was a very nice 3-4 star business class hotel, that seemed to be recently remodeled. Rooms were relatively spacious and included lots of amenities like free toiletries, cable tv, room service, and your choice of pillows! It was only 2-3 blocks from the Grand Place and the Central train station. At $79 per night when booked through Expedia.com it was a very good deal. The hotel is also a block from A la Mort Subite, so don't drink in the hotel bar.
Driving: We rented a car and had no problems driving
around the Belgian countryside. However, we had a very hard time buying
gas after hours in Brussels. All the gas stations we found were unattended
and only took local ATM cards. Our card, which is on the Plus system,
wouldn't work. We had no problems getting cash from machines at banks.
So, if you need gas in Brussels, be prepared to fill up during the day.
Also, the Hertz location at Midi station has very inconvenient hours on
weekends, so if you want to get a car there, call them. I wouldn't recommend
driving, as Belgium is small and seems to have good train service.
Wally Mealiea
Manassas, VA USA 09/23/03
Brussels, Bruges, and Amsterdam
Just got back from our first independent trip to Europe, using many suggestions
from Rick's book. We were in Brussels Sept. 5-7, during their annual Beer
Festival on the Grand Place. There were parades, bands, a new costume for
Mannekin Pis, and lots of great beer. Stayed at Hotel Opera, which was fine
but had a LOT of street noise.
During 4 days in Bruges, we took the recommended Quasimodo "Triple Treat" tour, which was very enjoyable and well presented.
In Amsterdam, the Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum were a real highlight, as was the Anne Frank House and the Dutch Resistance Museum. We bought the Amsterdam Pass, and took advantage of it to ride the trams for free, as well as for museum entries and a canal boat tour. We booked all our lodging before we left home, and discovered that all the Amsterdam hotels were full due to the annual International Broadcasters convention (we were there Sept. 12-16). Luckily, I found a wonderful B&B, Sunhead of 1617, located in the Jordaan neighborhood right on Herengracht canal (#152, website www.sunhead.com). Great location, wonderful hosts (Roelf and Carlos), and delicious breakfast for 129 euro per night (plus tax). They also rent several apartments. We would definitely recommend this place be included in the next edition!
Train connections between cities were easy, and
the Belgian Railways website (www.b-rail.be) was very helpful and accurate.
Bonny B <email>
Tucson, AZ USA 09/22/03
Amsterdam, Maastricht and Bruges
We just returned from the Netherlands and Belgium and used the book extensively
especially for the walking tours.
Amsterdam: We stayed at the Gresham Memphis near Vondelpark for about 99 euros a night (Hotels.nl is great for finding good hotel rates) The neighborhood was quiet, on the lightrail line and a few minutes by foot to Museumplein. Also ate at a quiet neighborhood restaurant with no other tourists around.
We did buy the Amsterdam Pass (2 days) and it did save quite a lot of money for us, mostly because it covers a lot of the sights on Rick's walking tour and includes 2 canal boat rides (we did one in the evening and one in the day for 2 totally different views of the city). The unlimited public transportation is nice because your feet do get tired from all the walking and it's convenient to hop on a bus and be able to rest for a bit enroute to your next sight.
We also went to Maastricht which is a nice day trip as a stop between Amsterdam and Bruges. This is an old Roman city which still has the old city wall and great architecture and churches. We got the walking tour from the local TI, and spent sometime wandering the alleys of the city.
Bruges: Pretty but very touristy -- even in September! We stayed at Robert and Lievtjes B&B (as recommended by Rick) and loved it, the least expensive attic room has a great view of the city out the window and is in a quiet neighborhood. Very comfortable. As for chocolates, we found Leonidas stores in Brussels and Paris as well, so buy what you want toward the end of the rip to avoid having to carry them around and risk melting. Also, Dumon has a website (http://users.pandora.be/chocolatierdumon/) where you can order ten 250 kilo boxes delivered to the US for about 105 euros (including shipping)
Finally - it would be helpful to have the walking
tours on CD or tape so you don't have to stop and read every few steps.
Just a thought.
CA Traveler <email>
Sacramento, CA USA 09/19/03
Brussels nicht gut
I have to say that Brussels was not a good place. Certainly not worth more
than a day. It was by far the low point of our recent europe trip. The worst
part was the train stations. Brussels Midi is good, helpful people. But,
Nord, and Central are the worst I have ever sen in Eurpoe. Not friendly
at all. Stood in line 15 minutes to pay Thalys supplemental at the Central
station. Man at the window said he couldn't do it and pointed to another
line. Waited in that another 20 minutes and he said he couldn't do it and
pointed to a sign that read no bookings. I told him that the man from the
other line sent me here. He shrugged his shoulders. Then I asked him where
I could go to pay the supplemental and he shrugged his shoulders again.
After calling him several not so nice names in German, I walked over to
the hotel information office where finally a friendly person told me that
you can only pay the Thalys supplement from the Midi station and none of
the others in Brussels. Most of the people we met were pretty rude, the
city was very dirty compared to other large cities in europe. Antwerp and
Brugge are so much better.
The Grand Place in Brussels was nice, and the Chocolatier Manon on Rue
de Congress was out of this world. The rest of Brussels they can keep!
Bret Spencer <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA 09/17/03
Luxembourg
Please add information on Luxembourg to your book. I agree with the comments
below about this hidden treasure.
New Hampshire Reader <email>
Hanover, NH USA 09/13/03
Wonderful B&B in Amsterdam
On our April trip to Europe we stayed three nights in Amsterdam at a wonderful
B&B not listed in Rick's Amsterdam, Bruges & Brussels book. It's called
Blaine's B&B and can be found on the web at http://www.blainesamsterdam.com/
. Blaine and Peter run a couple different B&Bs in Amsterdam where rooms
go for anywhere from 60 to 160 euro a night depending on the season and
type of room. We paid 140 euro per night in April for the luxurious loft
at Blaine's B&B. What an amazing place. We had our own living area, a rooftop
terrace (which technically could be used by anyone at the B&B but we didn't
see anyone else out there the whole time we stayed there), private bathroom
with shower and fresh flowers, and a loft bedroom up a set of stairs/ladder.
How Dutch! The breakfast is free with the price of your room in the high
season (March through October). It's 7.50 euro extra from November to mid-March.
Our daily breakfasts were one of the best parts of our entire trip. Fruit, bread, cheeses, deli meat, cereal, jam, smoked salmon and hot out of the oven croissants. HEAVENLY! Peter spent every breakfast with us and the other travellers, giving us useful tips about the city and wonderful knowledge about Dutch culture that we wouldn't be able to find anywhere else. He and Blaine couldn't have been nicer.
Blaine's is located in a beautiful suburban area
along the Schinkel Canal; a stop for Tram #2 is two blocks away and will
take you downtown in 10 minutes. Since it's right at the far end of Vondel
Park, we spent a lovely morning walking downtown through the park instead
of taking the tram. It took about 40 minutes and was so gorgeous. Overall,
Blaine's was our favorite B&B of our entire European vacation. We're planning
another trip to Amsterdam next spring and you can bet that we'll be staying
with Blaine and Peter again.
Sara <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 09/11/03
Don't forget the LUX in Benelux
If you go to the Netherlands and Belgium, do not miss the opportunity to
visit Luxembourg, the LUX in Benelux. Luxembourg is one of the best kept
secrets in Europe. Stay at the Hotel Francais in the Place de Arms where
you can hear free orchestra concerts on summer evenings. Dine at Giorgio's
italian restaurant in the old centre, my favorite restaurant in EUROPE!
Visit the Grund (valley) that winds thru the old city and drink a pint with
a fellow traveler or ex-pat at Scott's pub. The patio off the rear of this
pub offers one of those priceless European views that will bring you back
again and again. Don't forget that there are many exciting day trips from
the city of Luxembourg. General Patton is buried just outside the city at
the American Military Cemetary.
A visit to Vianden is a must, a beautifuly medieval town with a perfect castle perched on a hilltop. You can also take a chair lift to a view point that is breathtaking. Vianden is only on hour's drive from the city. Driving in Luxembourg is made very easy by numerous signs that are easy to read.
If you have time, visit the beautiful town of Echternach.
It is a real town but is so enchangting, it is like being in a medieval
open air museum. Remember, Luxembourg is a small country so nothing is
far. You will not be disappointed.
Tim Farrell <email>
Cincinnati, Ohio USA 09/07/03
Netherlands and Brugge
Again, Rick's guide books for these 2 areas was invaluable. And very accurate.
Hotels Amadeus in Haarlem and De Buren Restaurant are a must. Hotel Keisershof
and Pancake Bakery in Amsterdam were excellent. Chris DeLoof's B&B in Brugge
an excellent value and location also Dumon Chocolates are the finest.
J. Straw <email>
Walnut Creek, , Ca USA 09/03/03
Correction for Amsterdam
Just got back from a trip to amsterdam. A couple of suggestions/corrections
not yet posted.
1) The glass window view of the Nieuwe Kerk is better then the view you pay 9EU unless you want to see the special show.
2) Begijnhof is open from 8:00 to 11:00, the main church is under construction and may be closed. Nothing else opens until 10:00 so one place to see early in the morning.
3) In Haarlem, if you take the cannel ride besure to ask for the english description guide. Unlike other boat rides this in this one the captain does all the speaking.
4) The palace in Dam Square is open tues,wed,thursday. The self-guided tour is is only through the old administration portion, not the living areas. However it is well worth it. The various videos swap between Dutch and English.
5) If you are into beer, the Heineken experience is one of the better beer tours, although the Coors plant in Colorado is still better since it is a working plant. For your fee you get the tour, 3 glasses of beer or softdrinks and a souvener glass Heineken glass in a tin. Nice break after the two main museums.
5) Do not plan to eat in the Rembrandtplein area, restaurants are expensive. However they have some of the better outdoor cafes for a nice drink break and watch the various street shows.
Overall a good trip, the only bad place for groups
were the shopping streets and the Van Gogh museum.
will dieterich <email>
colo springs, co USA 09/01/03
Amsterdam - Hotel Acacia not that nice
We just left Amsterdam for Paris and I'm not sure if Amsterdam is just not
the place for nice, reasonably priced hotels, but Hotel Acacia (listed in
the 2003 book) was dumpy. The Jordaan area was great and we would try and
stay in that area if we return to Amsterdam, but not at that hotel. We had
room 14 and it smelled damp and moldy. Also, when we asked the front desk
people for recommended restaurants, laundry mat, or internet cafe they didn't
really provide us with an answer. (just told us to walk down the street)
To put this stay in perspective, read the previous post about our stay in
Brugges and the post we made for the Paris book about Hotel du Champs de
Mars. We paid 50 euros in Brugges, 80 euros in Amsterdam for this place,
and 73 in Paris for a beautiful hotel.
Tim & Hope <email>
Edmonds, WA USA 09/01/03
Bike City is a great place to rent bikes if you're staying in the Jordaan
area of Amsterdam. We found it much easier to get used to riding in Amsterdam
in the quiet Jordaan then picking a bike up at the central station. Rick
does not list this place in the 2003 book. http://www.bikecity.nl/UKhome.html
Tim & Hope <email>
Edmonds, WA USA 08/28/03
After reading the previous person's post about their hotel in Brugges,
I had to repost this! Debruyne B&B - Brugges We're in Brugges now (posting
from a great internet cafe called Coffee Link) and we just had to comment
on how nice the Debruyne B&B is. Only 3 rooms so it is quiet and the owner
is very friendly (speaks English too.) Breakfast is great as well. We feel
comfortable and welcomed. Totally recommend it if you're planning a trip
to Brugges!
Tim & Hope <email>
Edmonds, WA USA 08/24/03
WE USED YOUR BEST OF EUROPE GUIDE TO FIND THE HANSA HOTEL IN BRUGES.
IT WAS ONE OF THE HIGHER PRICED HOTELS YOU RECOMMENDED. IT WAS A DISAPPOINTMENT.
WE PAID 170 EUROS A NIGHT FOR MOTEL 6. WE REQUESTED A QUIET ROOM, BUT RECEIVED
A NOISY ROOM ON THE STREET AND THE LOUD PEOPLE IN THE HALLWAY COULD BE HEARD
CLEARLY RIGHT THROUGH THE DOOR. LIGHT ALSO CAME IN UNDER THE DOOR. THE SINK
WAS CRACKED AND THE FOLDING SHOWER DOOR WAS SO FLIMSY AND BROKEN THAT IT
REQUIRED TWO PEOPLE TO CLOSE IT. WE ASKED FOR A DIFFERENT ROOM. IT WAS VERY
SMALL AND THIS ONE HAD NO SHOWER DOOR, SO THE WATER WENT ALL OVER THE FLOOR.
WE USUALLY STAY AT DELUXE HOTELS AND THIS WAS NOT WHAT WE EXPECTED FOR A
HIGHER PRICED HOTEL.
Diane Starkey <email>
Walnut Creek, CA USA 08/18/03
If Amsterdam is a stop on your journey the I would highly
recommend at least a day and a night in Brugge. There is a an abundance
of 50 euro a night B&B's that offer a great breakfast and all the help that
any tourist could ask for. The town is crowded by day, but it is almost
empty after nine o'clock. You can see everything in a day and then relax
in the comfort of a great B&B. Setola's B&B was an amazing find and if you
call any ones that are booked just ask them to refer you to another B&B
and they almost always can.
Sam Bacon <email>
Peachtree City, ga USA 07/16/03
Hotel Welcome
We have just returned from Brussels, Bruges and Paris. I have to highly
recommend the Hotel Welcome in Brussels. We had the owner, Michael, pick
us up at the airport (50 euro round trip). He gave us so much information
on the city during the trip. Vanessa met us upon our arrival and helped
us with our luggage. She was also delightful and wonderful. She gave us
every bit of information we needed to visit the city. She told us about
the metro and which trains to take. The metro is steps from their door.
Anything we needed, they were there to help. The first two nights we were
in the Marrakech room and when we returned we had the Egypt room. Michael
has put so much work into designing these rooms. It's amazing. This hotel
is not to be missed. You will enjoy your stay. http://www.brusselswelcomehotel.be/
Adrienne <email>
Va USA 07/13/03
BOATEL, AMSTERDAM
A couple of comments on the Boatel in Amsterdam. Be warned, if the weather
is hot, don't select the canal-view side. The canal side faces the afternoon
sun until sunset (which is quite late during summer), and the steel hull
collects heat to the point you will think you are the Thanksgiving turkey.
Even an open window and door, won't provide relief. If you pay extra for
the canal-view, you won't want a 1st level room, you will only see the bottom
of the pedestrian pier that runs the full length of the ship on the water
side. (This is a non-floating ship mounted on concrete foundation.) Overnight
parking cost $29.33 for find-your-own, non-protected street parking. Very
good breakfast, and good location however.
Lloyd <email>
Sedalia, Mo USA 07/04/03
Stedelijk Museum
Hi, I'm in Amsterdam right now and I just want to mention something in Rick's
book which is wrong. The Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art is open in 2003,
though it will be closed from 2004-2006. So don't skip it thinking that
it's not open!
Tracy <email>
Oakland, CA USA 07/03/03
Add Luxembourg!
I wish there was some info on Luxembourg in the Amsterdam/Brussels/Bruges
book. I'd love to see it added to the 2004 book. On one of Rick's OLD shows,
he raves about Luxembourg. But like most guidebooks, Lux is just omitted.
Please consider adding even a few pages.
DR
USA 07/01/03
Loved Noga Hotel
We stayed at Noga Hotel in Brussels for 2 nights and traveled to Brugges
from there and returned. A day in each city is enough and we liked keeping
our luggage in one hotel. The transportation tips in this book were vital
in our decision to venture out on our own. We took the train from Amsterdam
to Brussels and then to Brugges and even took a bus from Brugges to Breskens
to visit relatives. The hotel was cozy, clean, ready for us at noon when
we arrived and beautifully decorated with refreshments available in the
room for cheaper than buying out. It was close enough to Grand Place and
the tram was right behind the hotel. We loved our stay. Rick's walk of Grand
Place and Brugges saved time. We also used the Amsterdam tips but decided
a took a tour of the Netherlands best suited us.
Linda Richardson <email>
Haskell, NJ USA 06/29/03
Brussels, Bruges and Amsterdam
Wonderful trip -- as usual, Rick's advice is priceless. Brussels was fun,
but one day is plenty to see it. By the way, we had a "reservation" (that
we confirmed twice) at the Residence les Ecrins but no room was available
when we arrived. They booked us at another hotel for the same quoted price.
The room we got was okay and everything worked out fine, but at the time
it was an unwelcomed surprise. Bruges is incredible (do the bike ride to
Damme with a picnic lunch). We stayed at the Absoluut Verhulst B&B which
was, quite simply, the BEST lodging experience we have had in six trips
to Europe (and we've had many good ones). Amsterdam has something for everyone.
The Van Gogh musuem can't be missed and the Hidden Church in the Attic was
fun. Perhaps our favorite experience was the Dutch Resistance Museum. Very
thought-provoking -- it makes you wonder what you would have done under
the same circumstances. We stayed at the Hotel Accacia, which was clean
and no-frills, but that was all we really needed.
John & Monica
Towson, MD USA 06/25/03
Brussels - Casa Terlingen
While in Brussels, we stayed at a wonderful little B&B called Casa Terlingen
(www.casaterlinden.be). Alexandre and Raphaelle are wonderful hosts and
their beautiful home is in a nice neighbourhood (across from a place where
they make great chocolate!), near the tram line to downtown. I highly recommend
this B&B.
Sonia <email>
Saskatoon, SK Canada 06/19/03
Tips for accessibility
I just returned from a two week trip to Amsterdam, Paris, Florence, and
Rome. I used your guidebooks for all four cities. This comment applies equally
to all of your books for those cities. I am married to a person with cerebral
palsy and travels everywhere in her wheelchair. We discovered that since
the passage of the Americans with Disabilities Act, America is light years
ahead of Europe in terms of accessibility. It would be helpful if you would
include information about the attractions in your books concerning its accessibility
for people with disabilities. I would suggest a scale of 1 to 5 with an
explation of the attraction's accessibility. For instance, the collesium
in Rome is completely accessibile with an elevator that takes you easily
to the top level. The forum, on the other hand, which is just across the
street, is totally and completely inaccessible. It was imposible for my
wife to go to the forum. We took the elevator to the top of the Arc de Triomphe
in Paris and then she climbed the stairs to the very top so it would get
a rating of medium accessibilty. We discovered when we left Saint Chappel
in Paris that we could exit via the Palace of Justice which is adjacent
to the church via an elevator. These things would have been nice to know
in advance and would have made our planning easier. And the subways in Paris
and Rome -- what a disaster. They both get a zero for accessibility. All
of the trains we took in Europe were very helpful and assisted us with getting
my wife and her chair on and off the train. Please consider improving your
already excellent guides by adding information on their accessibility for
people with disabilities. You could even consider hiring us and paying our
way to Europe a few times so that we could assist you with gathering the
needed information.
Kent Burel <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 06/13/03
Great Brugge Bed and Breakfast - Marieke B&B
We highly recommend B&B Marieke in Brugge, Belgium. VERY friendly hosts,
large well-decorated rooms with toilet & shower, both rooms (second and
third floor with steep stairs) have a great view of a canal, and there is
FREE INTERNET access downstairs. Breakfast was huge and delicious. Trees
and Willy went way out of their way to make us feel at home. Brugge is an
awesome city and getting to know Trees and Willy made it even more fantastic.
This B&B should definitely be included in Rick's next book. It is a short
(5-6 min.) walk to the historic downtown thru the beautiful Astrid Park.
You can catch a bus almost to their doorstep from the train station & can
catch a return bus two blocks away. It is far enough away to be quiet, but
close enough to be convenient. For 2 persons, it was 50 Euros including
breakfast. They have a website with pictures, http://users.belgacom.net/marieke/
, and you can reserve by e-mail. This is a very user-friendly B&B.
Jack and Jennifer Alban <email>
Nampa, ID USA 06/02/03
Get an Museumkaart
Hope the next edition of Rick's otherwise-great book prominently mentions
to get a Museumkaart - for only 30 euros each, it gets you into many, many
of the country's best museums for free for a year. I didn't discover its
availability until after I'd already paid 7-9 euros each for the first 3
museums... I have 3 left if anyone wants to contact me. Also, I heartily
recommend seeing Gent (not Antwerp, though) and staying in Gent at the Hotel
Castel, www.hotelcastel.be. Lame breakfast but the quietest and cleanest
hotel room we've ever been in.
Brian Felsen <email>
New York, NY USA 06/01/03
Brouwer Hotel a gem
We stayed at the Hotel Brouwer in Amsterdam three years ago, and our daughter
is there this week (single with bath is 50E).Near everything. Contrary to
the book - there is an elevator. They ask that it not be used after certain
hours (for noise) but no need to carry luggage up steps! It is newly remodeled
(about 5 years ago), still in the same family since the early 1900s. Rooms
are bright and nicely furnished - wood floors, very stylish with white walls
and wood shutters. A single room has three windows and each room in the
hotel has fantastic canal views - the hotel sits at the convergence of two
canals. Has eight rooms of good size in a building dating from 1682. Each
room is named after a different Dutch painter, with a print in each room.
Beautiful Dutch style breakfast room. Plus - each guest gets a key to the
side entrance off a small street, so you can come and go as you please and
really feel like a local. This has to be our favorite hotel in Europe.
suzanne
Columbus, OH USA 05/31/03
Brussels, Bruges & Amsterdam. A delight!!
Just returned from a recent trip to Brussels, Bruges and Amsterdam and
followed Ricks incredible book once again. First stop, Brussels and stayed
at Residence les Ecrins as we were on a budget. Very quaint with alot
of steps and only minutes from central area. Luc is no longer there but
Edward who replaced him is more then helpful. Had to have dinner on restaurant
row and I chose 'Leons' as Rick suggested and was not disappointed. There
special, Mussels, fries and a beer was well worth the 12euros as I people
watched outside. It was quite a scene watching all the restaurant hosts
try to entice me into their restaurants!!Although a tourist trap, had
to see the atomium if for no other reason I had seen pictures of it for
years. It is massive. I was fortunate to catch a free jazz concert on
the Grand Place. And of course seeing the Mannelen-Pis made me find the
nearest WC.
Next stop, lovely Bruges. My B&B was a modern one owned by famed local architects Marie Rose and Ronny called the Debruyne (huge bathtubs-what a pleasure!!). A bit out of the central area but only a fifteen minute walk. Nice conversations over breakfast but noisy at night. They recommended restaurant called 'Toms Diner' and it was fabulous. Rick should include it in his book. Very local with no english on menu. The best find in Bruges for quality at atmosphere and they squeezed me in as reservations a must. 'Diner' is stolen from America but does not imply the same. No greasy spoon here. It was a bit chilly and rainy during my stay here but I made the best of it. Took Ricks walking tour and it was fascinating. A canal tour is nice but boats are crowded like sardines with all the tourists. Fries a must but ask for mayo on the side. If you don't, they throw it on top and smother the fries!!
Next stop, Amsterdam and the weather was delightful.
I do not agree with Rick on staying in Haarlem. To far from the action.
I stayed at Hotel Brouwer and afain, delightful as was the owner Colleen.
The hotel has an elevator, not just the steep stairs Rick mentions and
nice canal views from all rooms. Delightful breakfast and near everything,
including a few red lights and coffee shops at the corner!! Not unusual.
Unfortunately, Rick was wrong about the Rijks Museum. Closed already,
not in the Fall. Parts were open but not worth seeing. Van Gogh entrance
fee increased to 9euros from 7.25euros as Rick said. Must try the herring
(haring) just for experience. No lines for Anne Frank house after 5pm.
Went right in. Side trip to Haarlem delightful. Must listen to the organ
in the Grote Kerk church. I caught it during rehearsal for a concert at
noon and was enchanted. Most beautiful organ I have ever seen. Had time
to take in the Corrie Ten Boom house tour and was fascinated. Between
the Anne Frank and this, I was able to capture the experiences of the
jews during the holocaust. All in all, a nice one week trip. Well done
Rick.
Mitchell Grant <email>
Coconut Creek, FL USA 05/31/03
Bring Cash for bar-hopping in Brugge
My husband and I just returned from a short jaunt to Bruges, by way of
the Dover-Calais ferry crossing. We learned the hard way that many of
the local pubs/bars do not accept credit cards, and that most bartenders
will not run a tab, but overall it was a thoroughly enjoyable trip.
We stayed at the elegant Heritage Hotel (formerly
"Hansa"), where our very spacious suite was booked for 145 euros/night
through Amex's Platinum Travel Service. We loved the scallops at De Gouden
Karpel. For motoring enthusiasts, there is the very excellent motorcycle
museum just outside the the ring road near the Brugge-Damme canal. It's
Johan's personal collection and he gives visitors an entertaining tour.
Be sure to call him first, as it's by appointment only! Johan Schaeverbeke
: 050/59 90 56 As for the chocolates at Dumon, we ended up buying an extra
box to take home with us, plus a gift-wrapped assortment to give to grandma
for watching the kids! Mme Dumon is delightful, and her ganache is divine!
Anne Hamilton <email>
New Yorker living in Cheltenham, UK 05/27/03
Bruge and Travelers Checks
Bruges was great. It was a bit crowded on Easter weekend but we did find
accomodations. Your recommendations on the Dumont chocolate were dead on.
Brought back a suitcase full. Before our trip I had got travelers checks
in Euros from AAA. Turned out we had a helluva time cashing them. None of
the hotels would take them. Had to exchange for cash at 8% discount
Lyle Foltz <email>
SOUTH PRAIRIE, WA USA 05/10/03
Amsterdam
The Rijksmuseum is closed until the end of May (at least) due to the discovery
of asbestos. Museum lovers are flocking to the Van Gogh Museum, creating
very long lines. I just lived through my first Queen's Birthday experience--quite
a party. The Dutch people do that very well.
CMcCune <email>
Amsterdam, NL 05/03/03
Brussels and Netherlands
Brussels: SIGHTS- walked around the main squares - very impressive; FOOD:
chocolate was amazing; ROOM - Ibis Saint Catherine - good location and value,
but a bit far with luggage from train station, the BEST SHOWERS in Europe
I have found
Haarlem - SIGHTS - the town itself is the attraction. The cathedral, St. Anthony's, was beautiful. Spring carnival next to the hotel was fun. Great town and base for the region. FOOD - Popocatepetl (next to Cathedral in Grote Markt square) had outstanding mexican food. LODGING -Hotel Carillon - had to use actual climbing technique to manuver stairs with luggage, great location but overpriced. Very friendly staff but a bit clueless.
Keukenhof Gardens - outstanding gardens in beautiful countryside, good food in the cafes.
Amsterdam - SIGHTS - Torture Museum (across from
Flower Market on Sigel Canal) and Tropical Museum were great, Museumboat
was wonderful with a very helpful and personable guide, Red-Light District
was entertaining (great gifts), wife loved the markets, Anne Franks's
House was not what I expected and was jammed even at 7 pm. FOOD - Tandoor
by the flower market has great Indian food.
Marc <email>
Greenwich, CT USA 04/20/03
Amsterdam's NEMO Science Museum
I love your guide but one thing I didn't see in it for Amsterdam was the
NEMO (New Metropolis) Science Museum. It is an amazing building with a great
view and so much fun for kids and adults. It is also a great escape on a
rainy day. The website address in English is http://www.e-nemo.nl/index.cfm?&lang=EN
Laurel De George <email>
New York, NY USA 04/19/03
Haarlem and Amsterdam
Rick Steves' book was well worth the $15. Definitely stay in Haarlem and
make day trips to Amsterdam. It's only about 5 euros round trip. I stayed
at the Amadeus with no problems and enjoyed the convenient internet access.
The Botel with a canal view in Amsterdam is also a good choice.
If you like to drink and eat and exercise, don't rent a bike. I needed to walk all of the beer and good food off and could get most places in Amsterdam in about 30 minutes of walking.
The sex museum on the Damrak is definitely better.
The Three Sisters restaurant on Leidseplein square had extremely friendly staff and good beer, but the food was almost the same as what you could get here in the US. The de Reiger restaurant in the Jordaan is excellent, but get there early.
Take the 2 euro tour of the windmill in Haarlem called "De Adriaan". The guide was a knowledgeable and pleasant gentlemen, and it had a family atmosphere.
The De Buren restaurant in Haarlem was quite popular, but I didn't have reservations Saturday night and couldn't get in. The owner does have a handlebar mustache, and he and his wife are very nice people.
Keukenhof Gardens were just starting to bloom -
a must see. Get a combo bus-Keukenhof ticket for about 15 euros at the
bus station in Haarlem, and go later in the day to avoid crowds and get
the best lighting. Since it's a normal city bus, you may get lost in the
shuffle if there are only a few of you. Ask the driver to point out the
transfer in Lisse because the signs are small and tough to read during
those quick stops.
Jason Bowman <email>
Dayton, OH USA 04/16/03
Amsterdam and Belgium
Purchasing Rick's guide to Amsterdam and Bruges was one of the best $15
I have ever spent. During my week in the Netherlands and Belgium, I never
put it down.
I followed the guidebook's advice, and got a room in Haarlem, rather than in Amsterdam - that suggestion alone was worth the price of the book! I stayed in two different hotels recommended in the book, and found both to be a good value.
Because of the book's advice I got to listen to the organ in the Grote Kerk, as it played during a memorial service for three Haarlem firefighter killed days earlier in a church fire. A sad but memorable view beyond 'tourist Europe'.
The other examples of good advice from the book are just too numerous to mention them all. As the book advised, I went to the Anne Frank House late in the day. I arrived just after a large school group left, and had the museum almost to myself. I stood alone in the room with the actual diary for several minutes, just reflecting on what was going on as the diary was being written. It would have been a whole different experience if the room had been crowded.
Visiting Bruge was also a suggestion that made it worth buying the book. That city is now on my short list of places I just have to return to some day.
The only thing I would add to the book would be
something about Ghent, Belgium, which is a worth at least half a day if
you are in the area.
Ed B. <email>
Boston, MA USA 04/16/03
Station touts
In Amsterdam in February we were intercepted at the train station by touts
who offered us a studio apartment for 30 euros. We went and had a look at
it, then reserved it. This was fine until twilight, when all the nearby
businesses finally opened. Turns out the neighborhood was a colony of the
Red-Light district! An eye-opening exerience!
Don S <email>
London, UK 03/25/03
More Van Gogh
If you like Van Gogh there is a lot of things happening not only in Amsterdam.
There is a special exhibit at the Kroller-Muller Museum as well as other
activities. Consult www.vangogh150.nl for more information.
Marty Marcichow <email>
Hoffman Estates, IL USA 03/21/03
Haarlem
Hotel Joops's email address IS correctly listed as joops@easynet.nl but
the website is not currently up.
Also, there's a typo in the website link provided for Frederic Rent-A-Bike
-- the extra "e" after the second "r" is an apparent mistake. The actual
web address is: www.frederic.nl.
Carolyn <email>
Lincolnton, GA USA 03/17/03
Bruges
Brugge: We arrived in town in Feb. at the last minute, fully expecting to
find a B&B from Rick's books. We made a stop at Absolut Verhulst where Frieda
and Benno apologized for not having an empty room. They made phonecalls
for us, checking prices and availability for us at 3 other B&Bs. We stayed
at a new place, a little above the RS price range at $120/night. Include
at trip to de Pub, a Flemish Pub in the Egg Market Square in Brugge. Bartender
Kevin Caestercker collects the different U.S. state quarters (he only has
8 so far), which leads into lively conversations with American tourists.
He serves each different type of beer in glasses, mugs of a variety of shapes
and sizes-to enhance particular flavors.
CZM
Bellevue, WA USA 02/17/03
Brussels hotels
For what it's worth, here are the hotels we used in Brussels recently, what
we paid, what we got and what we thought. Caveat emptor!
Hotel Le Plaza -- Expedia gave a special rate of $115 (includes tax and service, no breakfast) for this 5-star (no kidding) hotel. Beautiful room, lovely hotel in a totally non-descript section of Brussels. Drawback: breakfast in the hotel is beyond astronomical. You can do a lot better walking five minutes away.
Hotel Agenda Midi -- only for those who must stay in the Gare du Midi area, which is a dangerous neighborhood. We needed to take a train early in the AM, got a decent rate including breakfast. Not a good place, unless you meet the 'taking a train' criteria. Oh, yes, no more than one person with one bag in the elevator, unless you want to play 'getting stuck as a cultural experience'.
Note: I can be princessy about my lodging, so our
rates may be more than you want to spend.
Shelley
Hudson, NY USA 02/14/03
Bruges touristy yes, fun you bet!
We were in Bruges in Sept. 2003, and it was great. Yes it is touristy, but
it is quaint and charming. We stayed in a very reasonably priced B&B ($80
per night) right off the main square: Verdi Brugge Tea Room, a bit noisy
but ear plugs helped. The rooms were huge, including the bathroom, and the
location was great. We rented bikes and did a tour of the countryside, what
a great time, we took the blue route on the bike map Rick suggests. We stopped
at a castle on the way and got a tour by a nice old gentlemen who spoke
mostly Flemish but was very nice. The beer is the best anywhere, anyone
who doesn't like Belgian beer is probably the type who likes Budweiser (ugh).
The chocolate was delicious, go to Dumon, definitely the creamiest. To refute
what a previous person wrote, we never saw any nude chocolates and we thought
the "fritjes" (fries) were nothing special. Go to the Pickles place Rick
suggests for cheap good eating. Basically I couldn't disagree more with
people who dislike Bruges. It is definitely worth the trip. Rent a bike
and you'll really love it.
Andrea <email>
Austin, TX USA 02/09/03
Fairy Tale Bruges
Bruges is not to be missed. I felt like I had arrived in a fairy tale. T'Brugs
Beertje is the pub in Bruges with 300 Belgian beers and it is also not to
be missed. Had a wonderful time there (both nights). On the second night,
we met a local who took us to his friend's restaurant (sorry can't remember
the name - too many beers!) for a memorable meal. We drank more and met
more locals, one of whom took us to his favorite nightspot for yet more
drinks. Rode his bicycle through the streets of Brugges at 5:00 a.m. back
to our hotel. Very fun!
Also, in Amsterdam, the Van Gogh museum was one of the nicest museums
I have ever visited and is not to be missed.
Kathy <email>
Northboro, MA USA 02/07/03
Wish Rick had more of Belgium
I hope Rick writes a book that includes more of Belgium. I vaguely know
that Waterloo was the site of Napolean's defeat and that Antwerp is called
the diamond capital of the world; and I hoped that I could determine if
either of these cities are worth the time. I admit that my European experiences
are different from the average traveler as I live and work there for 3 months
at a time, and like to take one day excursions within driving distance of
Dusseldorf.
Scott <email>
Indy, IN USA 01/22/03
Bruges
We loved Bruges! We only had one day and one night to spend there but were
so glad that we went. We stayed at Hotel Cordoeanier. The husband and wife
hosts were friendly and helpful. We had a good time exploring the shops
and streets of the town. Thanks, Rick, for the suggestion.
Cindy Leopold <email>
Baton Rouge, LA USA 01/01/03
Bruges: Tourist Trap City
We've just returned from a trip to Europe and we visited Brugge (Bruges),
Belgium on Rick Steves' recommendation. I just want to warn everyone that
this entire city is one big tourist trap. Overpriced food, lodging, and
shopping (all the usual chains) are all that you will find. There is nothing
here to see or do that is not for the tourist. We had the pleasure of staying
in a "three star" hotel that in most cities would be home to transients,
paying $8 for a glass of beer (after being hustled by the waiter), and eating
lots of overpriced mediocre food. The beer and chocolate (main cultural
attractions) are both bad. The beer is too sweet and lacks hops flavor,
the chocolate is just poor quality and overpriced (plus the shops have degenerated
into selling chocolate body parts... the usual.) The natives have reached
the breaking point under the relentless onslaught of the tourists and are
barely civil. No "culture" or museums of any value. The city is cute but
has a Disneyland quality. We did like the frites. They were fresh and tasty
(but don't take the mayonnaise) even if they too were overpriced ($2 for
a serving of potatoes?) I'd advise avoiding this place... major tourist
trap.
Mark Spohr <email>
Tahoe City, CA USA 12/12/02
Inge of Bruges
During our spring trip to Paris, Germany, Hungary, and Slovakia we adjusted
our schedule to include a day-trip to Bruges. What a delight! While eating
in front of the fire at the Straffe Hendrik Brewery, we were served by the "friendly Inge" (mentioned in Rick's chapter on Bruges)and she truly was.
One day in Bruges was not nearly enough and I can't wait to go back. It
is now my favorite European city.
Joelle <email>
Anapolis, MD USA 12/02/02
Rooms in Bruges - one not so good place
A friend loaned us his Rick Steves book when we planned a trip to Bruges.
We're now hooked on the quality of advice in his book and are buying our
own copy! However the Yvonne De Vriese B&B is not to be recommended. My
in-laws had a very small room on the first floor and listened to traffic
the entire night. Our room had a very uncomfortable bed and just wasn't
what we expected for a B&B. However we'll be back in Bruges with our own
copy of Rick Steves - what an incredible city!
Joanne Parkes <email>
Geilenkirchen, Germany 11/17/02
Bruges
We arrived in Bruges via train with a train transfer in Brussels (very easy).
We stayed at the Hotel Cordoeanier which is on a quiet street near the Market
Square(www.cordoeanier.be.) It was about 65E for a double with bath and
buffet breakfast. We recommend this hotel (clean,friendly,good location)
We had our first dinner in an AWFUL restaurant. It was located on the main
market square. Rick's book indicated that places on the square were OK and
reasonable. I don't agree. "Restaurant Paris" had the rudest waiters and
poor food. We were treated like cattle. Avoid this one. The square is a
tourist trap area. The second night we decided to go away from the square
and spied the delightful and very romantic "Los a Moelle", 15 Eiermarkt.
We were seated in the rear room by ourselves. Our candlelit table was next
to a raised fireplace. Our server was delightful and the food was excellent.
What a difference from the night before! Enjoy Bruges.
Cathie <email>
St. Paul, MN USA 11/16/02
Bruges B & B
Just returned from our European trip, including one short day in Bruges,
and we absolutely loved it. We booked the recommended Chris Deloof's B&B
but didn't get to stay there. Reconfirmation was sent to her via e-mail
one week prior but we didn't find out she made alternate "arrangements"
for us until we got there. We had no choice but to accept her offer and
move to Mrs Lepere's B&B down the street. It was suprisingly pleasant because
we had the whole second floor to ourselves as there were no other guests.
It was also less expensive and we enjoyed the place very much. For dinner,
we went to the recommended Flemish Pot for flemish specialties and were
quite disappointed. The watercrest soup was just terrible and the pork chops,
grandmother style, turned out to be overcooked barbecue ribs! I think we
would have had better food sticking with a traditional Belgian bistro. Anyway,
the nicest thing in Bruges is taking a romantic stroll on quite streets
along the canals after dark. You have the whole town to yourself!
Sebastian <email>
Fort Worth, TX USA 10/19/02
Bruges with a toddler
Bruges is wonderful for travelers with a toddler! We were in Brussels for
business and found it to be overwhelming for our son. Moving to Bruges for
the weekend was (literally and figuratively) a breath of fresh air (the
smoking on the train was another story)! We stayed at the b&b marieke and
absolutely loved it (Trees and Willi were very gracious and tolerant of
Hans).
We were only a short walk from astrid park, the site of an amazing play structure that included a giant tube slide, bridges, climbing apparati, etc. the underground tunnels and a more age-appropriate slide were also fascinating, as were the swans and other waterfowl in a nearby pond. We enjoyed meeting other children and made a stop at astrid park at least twice a day during our sightseeing excursions.
Other highlights: the horse-drawn carriages clop-clopping through the city and the extensive options for outdoor eating in-season (we ate near the Beguinage to position ourselves near the horses' watering hole--good distraction for Hans during dinner). The chocolate fondue at 't Fonduhuis (also eaten outside) was a nice ending to the day.
Everything in Bruges is within walking distance
and the streets are very pedestrian-friendly. The climb up the belfry
was tough with the extra 25 pounds, but what a good workout! The canal
boat ride was also a hit with hans. Overall, Bruges was a near-perfect
experience for all of us!
Julie <email>
Manlius, NY USA 10/11/02
Bicycle in Amsterdam
Too many trips focus on getting to the big city, seeing the museums and
cathedrals and then taking the morning train to the next big city. If you're
planning a trip to Amsterdam, plan an extra day to rent a bicycle and get
out into the country. On an earlier trip I rented a bike from a shop next
door to my hotel in the Jordaan and explored the countryside north of Amsterdam.
There's a pedestrian ferry right behind the train station leaving you in
the northern suburbs. All of the streets have bke lanes and I followed signs
to "Waterworld". Past the suburbs is an incredible countryside of small
canal-side villages and fields. I ended up in the fishing town of Marken
- brilliantly painted and a preserve of traditional Dutch culture. Here's
another reason. If Amsterdam is your first stop in Europe, a day on a bike
helps jet lag I've found.
DM <email>
Portland, OR USA 08/11/02