Delicious Britain & Ireland: 2000
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Britain, what are its favorite taste treats? (Or does it just want to go back home?)
My business partner and I are enthusiastic Indian food fans. We had a week in London in April and had Indian at least once a day. We tried random places near where we were staying or sightseeing. The food was consistently amongst the best Indian food we had ever had. We were never disappointed. The best of all was a solidly touristy-looking place near Picadilly. We never expected such excellent food.
Another favorite for us was a Paris-style cafe called "Dome" which looked like it had been transported directly from Paris: beveled glass, nicotine-stained walls, a wood-paneled front that opened up to the sidewalk. Really quite a great place. We found out that it is a chain and there are 18 of them around London - which I suppose removed a bit of its authenticity, but we still went back.
USA 12/24/00
Okay, I'd have to be mad myself to recommend a British restaurant that specializes in beef. But Black and Blue (Kensington Church Street near Notting Hill Station) features organically fed Scottish beef that nearly melts in one's mouth. If you're still not sure, try the delicious grilled chicken salad or my favorite, the grilled salmon salad. Black and Blue looks ultra trendy but it's much more relaxed than it looks and the prices - by London standards - are quite reasonable.
Tom Lawton
Boston, MA USA 12/18/00
I was just in England for 8 days and I really enjoyed almost all of the food. The best meal I had was at the Eight Bells Inn in Chipping Campden... delicious roasted chicken with wild mushroom risotto. I also enjoyed Charles' breakfasts at the Kettle House!
I found that we ate rather lightly because we were on the go so much and wanted to keep our food budget down, which was very easy.
I had great fish and chips (one of my favorites no matter where I am), baguette sandwiches, Cadbury Wispabite (I really miss those!), very good coffee, and delicious beer. We also enjoyed the pizza at ASK near the Gloucester Rd. station, and the food at Dome, in the Earl's Court area.
Julie
Cleveland, OH USA 12/14/00
This summer our family of four spent 3 weeks camping our way around Britain. As this was a "budget" vacation we spent most of the time eating pastries for breakfast; bread, cheese and fruit for lunch; and fish & chips for dinner (okay, I ate mostly pasties for dinner).
A couple of times I was adventurous — tried the haggis with "neeps and tatties" at the Crofter in Fort William. Better than I expected. Then there was the Red Pudding which was just a big hot dog. Tried a battered burger: yup, a hamburger, dipped in batter and deep-fried along with the fish. No bun. Seemed most everything was battered and fried!
Perhaps this is why our dinner on our final night in London seemed so wonderful. Try "The Stockpot" at 6 Basil Street, very close by Harrod's. I had meatloaf with mashed potatoes, my husband had liver and bacon. The four of us adults ate for 18GBP (without drinks). If we ever make it back, we will look this place up again.
Lynne S
Wooster, OH USA 12/08/00
Food in Britain is fabulous! My husband and I just returned from the Best of London tour (11-00). From excellent sandwiches from Safeway (or anywhere!), to pubs (like the Duke of Wellington near Victoria Station), to restaurants (like the Italian ASK, also near Victoria Station), we loved it all! Be sure to try Banoffee pie too.
Beth C.
Lusby, MD USA 12/06/00
I would like to recommend the Browns restaurants in London (and also in various other cities around the country). One has just opened where I work and the food was delicious. The steak mushroom and Guiness pie were very very tasty. Their desserts are also great. They have an online menu at their website - browns-group.com
Karen
London, UK 11/14/00
During a visit to Wales, I found a delightful hotel restaurant in Merthyr Tydfil. The Tregenna Hotel surpasses every place I ate in the UK on a four-week trip. The food was delicious, well presented and varied. They have the basics spot-on and the puddings are out of this world and all homemade. The owner's wife, Kathleen, makes the most delicious wimberry pie imaginable. Wimberry is something like our blueberry only more delicate. If you are within 50 miles of Merthyr Tydfil, then take my advice and give Tregenna Restaurant a visit. Something special!
David Longstaff
Honolulu, HI USA 11/12/00
One block from the British Museum in London on New Oxford Street is the French restaurant, Bistro Savoir Faire. Lots of great food, and good service.
Also in London, Sea Shells has redecorated and we enjoyed fish and chips, mushy peas, spotted dick, and treacle sponge cake with custard.
But best of all was High Tea at the Ritz. It was a highlight of our trip and our only splurge. Elegant surroundings with harp music in the background. Reservations needed.
Debbie Dalin
Cooper City, FL USA 11/11/00
Has anyone been to My Old Dutch? They serve great big "pancakes" on great big blue and white Dutch platters with all kinds of "toppings!" I go there every trip I make to London. Try the curried chicken with rice and this delicious chutney. It's at 131-132 High Holborn, near Holborn station. Moderate prices, great variety, wine and beer.
Ed
Falls Church, Va USA 11/08/00
J. Sheeky's, located near Covent Garden and the National Gallery, is a fine fish restaurant — good food and good value. The fish pie is particularly yummy — and the place is very pretty, too.
Karen Kelly
Chicago, IL USA 11/06/00
In Bath we ate twice at Tilley's Bistro. It is very good food with reasonable prices, but be warned, you MUST have a reservation for dinner there. Though listed in Rick's book, the necessity of reservations was not included in the 1999 book. We were lucky to get a table anyway if we promised a short stay (leaving before a reserved time slot for that table) and since the restaurant's French and English cuisine was so delicious, we made a reservation for the next night before leaving.
Diane & ChucK Miller
Ashland, OR USA 11/05/00
In the summer of 1989, I traveled to London as part of a two-week tour. Our tour guide, a charming Austrian, encouraged us to try things we wouldn't find at home. We searched for authentic English food, but the group couldn't agree on where we should eat. We finally gave up and went to the local McDonald's...only to find our tour guide already there eating a Big Mac!
Diane Levy
Brooklyn, NY USA 10/29/00
Homemade jam, scones baked with pungent spices and peppers...ahh, the delightful experience of savoring freshly-baked scones with a piping hot pot of tea! My romance with them began during an elegant tea at London's Savoy, where they pampered our palates with a delicate variety of sandwiches, deserts, and mouthwatering scones (our teenage son and daughter enjoyed them so much that they were graciously served seconds and thirds!).
Lise Juneman
Celebration, FL USA 10/15/00
Took Rick's tip to eat at Waggamamma (in Dublin). It was great! Interesting, delicious, quick if you need it to be, AND smoke-free!
Judy Boyle
Fresno, Ca USA 10/14/00
We found that a relatively cheap way to eat during the day in London was at some of the pubs. One in particular, in the Earl's Court area, had more than just delicious fish and chips... it's called The Blackbird. We had the nicest lunch there, with perfectly cooked and seasoned veggies, a delicious lamb chop, and really nice desserts. Nice laid-back atmosphere, well worth the money.
grnlagrl
dallas, tx USA 10/07/00
I had a meal in Zipangu in central London and the food was tasty and affordable! Usually, Japanese food is expensive but here they do great value set dinners that even I as a student can afford!
Yunyee Tang
Oxford, UK 10/04/00
Contrary to the title of the section, Britain DOES have delicious food and some of the best (and most overpaid!) chefs in Europe. Being a poor student at Cambridge for 4 years led me to the folowing places:
The Bun Shop, King Street. This is a traditional pub with fab modern British and European cooking (definitely an end-of-term treat that someone else paid for!) and a good wine cellar.
Clowns coffee bar, King Street, is a little bit of Italy in Cambridge. Most of the staff are Italian and it has a great vibe.
The Pickeral pub (opposite Magdelene College, yeah!) is a "Spit and Sawdust" place with real ales and good pub atmosphere.
Other good traditional watering/pub-grub holes are The Anchor (on the Cam) in Silver Street near Queens College, and The St George In England on Midsummer Common.
London (my current locale) has too many good restaurants and bars to mention so check out 'Time Out'/'Hardens' restaurant guides and the London Evening Standard paper for the latest. A personal fave is 'Canteloupe' bar/restaurant, Charlotte Road, Shoreditch, London EC2 (think shabby SoHo). Enjoy!
Annalisa
London, UK 09/25/00
After 4 trips to England we finally decided to go to school in Oxford for a year. We didn't have much money and had to find cheap places to eat. One of our favorite places in London is a sandwich bar along the walkway to Charing Cross Station. The store is called BENJI's and it is very popular with local businesspeople. You can get a wonderful sandwich or bap for $1.25 (the roasted pork with applesauce is our favorite). They also have a hot breakfast with ribena for around $1.50. Just stroll 3 min. down to the the park and watch the boats go by on the Thames.
In Oxford, The Wesleyn Memorial Church located right downtown has a great lunch on Fridays. You can choose from many sandwiches, cakes, soups and even ice cream...all homemade with a cost of about $2.25 for a full lunch...a family hot spot with very nice people.
Sarah
Ca USA 09/17/00
Anyone wanting to tour Britain with good food and beer should get "The Good Pub Guide." We did a 3-week trip eating almost entirely from its suggestions and had some wonderful food, especially at The Turf Inn near Topsham, Devon. Its not accessible by car which adds to the charm. You can get a boat from the Topsham Quay or you can hike to it; ask at the TI.
Another good food pub was the Old Thatch in Cheriton Bishop near Dartmoor.
Also try the China House in Plymouth, and Gribble Inn, Oving, near Chichester. That one brews its own beer and what a grand choice!
Laura W.
Fredericksburg, TX USA 09/13/00
On a recent trip to England, my family looked for churches, organizations, or clubs serving a benefit meal. We had a delicious afternoon tea, and another time attended a PTA carnival (serving Real Ale!). These events serve very cheap homemade food and are great places to meet locals. You are contributing to a charitable cause as well.
Laura W.
Fredericksburg, TX USA 09/13/00
Surprisingly, the food was pretty good in London. We had a fabulous meal at an Italian place in Leicester Square, an even better meal at the Indian restaurant (Bhattra) and a good pizza at Pizza Express. Pub food was o.k. - fish and chips, sandwiches and baked potatoes. Their beer was pretty good (a little warm, but good) and the cider was fantastic. Check out the food rooms and counters in Harrods Dept. Store. It will blow you away with all of the variety.
Ashley
Tampa, FL USA 09/06/00
On a trip to London last year, my wife and I stumbled onto a fantastic pub in the Lancaster Gate area. It is a free house called The Archery Tavern and it has the most wonderful chicken, leek, and Stilton pie I have ever tasted. They also serve Real Ale, and that makes any pub worth visiting. It is on Bathurst Street, which is a quick left out of the Tube station, another left at the pelican crossing, and about two blocks up on the right. Well worth the trip.
Tony Pieta
Freedom, PA USA 08/28/00
While in York, my husband and I enjoyed eating at several establishments. Our B&B hostess recommended ASK, the Grand Assembly Rooms on Blake Street, and it was our absolute favorite place to dine. Built in the early 18th century by members of the landed gentry, the Grand Assembly room served as a place where the landowners could assemble when they came to town. Encircled by huge columns and decorated with chandeliers, the room looked like a setting for a Jane Austen novel. The droll wax figure maitre d' added an amusing touch. The food and service were so good that we went back a second time, something we generally do not do while traveling overseas. Tasty wine, yummy desserts, and friendly, prompt service made ASK a very enjoyable memory for us. I'm so glad it was recommended to us by a local, or we would have missed out on a very pleasant experience.
Betty's Tea Room offered delicious pastries from the dessert trolley as well as friendly service and great people-watching.
Pizza Express is not a fast food restaurant as the name suggests. We enjoyed very good Italian food while overlooking the River Ouse.
19 Grape Lane, tucked away in a side street, is a very cozy restaurant with some delicious and unusual selections. (My husband raved about the orange-tomato soup.)
Pierre Victoire, recommended in several travel books, disappointed us with mediocre food and service. I certainly wouldn't recommend eating there when York offers so many other choices.
Sherry
Houston, TX USA 08/26/00
Just returned from Britain & Ireland. My best tip: Stop at every bakery you see and buy fresh bread and sweets for now or later, and you'll always be happy! Best "meal": chicken and mushroom-filled "baps" (rolls) at a local bakery in Salisbury, served hot for 80p ($1.20).
tom daly
san diego, ca. USA 08/24/00
We just returned from 2 weeks in Scotland and England. We found the pub food to be very good, especially at 2 pubs in old Windsor, the Oxford Blue and the Union Hall. We did find the food in UK much more expensive that the US.
Our one really bad experience was at Mamma Mia's in York, recommended in Rick's book.. The food was good, but despite being only 3 couples in the place, we were seated in the aisle near the kitchen (maybe because we had a 7-yr-old with us). We asked to move and were then seated at a nice table in the garden (with much eye rolling). The house wine arrived full of floating somethings. The salad and main dishes arrived all at once, one dish not completely cooked. We spoke to the manager after the meal and were dismissed with a wave of the hand and "that's the way we do things in England." No tip for them.
Al
Hamilton, oh USA 08/22/00
On a recent trip to England we stumbled upon Bodkin House, a 17th-century coaching inn, nestled in 3 acres of grounds next to the Duke of Beaufort's Estate. The oldest part of the building dates back to a 12th-century monastery and shows examples of Tudor and Queen Anne architecture with Victorian additions. There have been many famous visitors including Lord Nelson and Jane Austen, and the Queen Mother used to play in the grounds as a child. Other residents include 6 ghosts which are occasionally sensed or seen by customers. We were assured that the ghosts are very kind and harmless. Eileen and Don Falconer, the new owners, go out of their way to make customers feel welcome and the food is great. The inn is located near the M4 motorway and offers easy access to Bath, Bristol, the Cotswolds, the Wye Valley and the Forest of Dean. This place is truly off the beaten path and I highly recommend it for character as well as delicious food. Address: Bodkin House Hotel, A46, Badminton, Cloucester GL9 1AF. Telephone: 01454 238310.
Sue Bannon
Red Bank, NJ USA 08/18/00
The Rose and Crown is a true country pub in Perry Wood, Selling, Faversham, Kent (tel 01227-752214 ) and not too far from Canterbury. Situated on top of Crown Hill and set against 150 acres of natural woodland, this delightful freehouse offers a warm welcome, great ales, excellent traditional English meals (lunch for 4 including ales, cocktails and desserts was $60). A true English country pub from a storybook!
The Royal Oak, a 16th-century thatched-roof freehouse pub, restaurant and bed and breakfast was a real find. Located in the village of Wooten Rivers near Marlborough, Wiltshire (tel 01672-810322), it's only 100 yards from the Kennet and Avon Canal in a real picturesque setting. St. Andrew's 13th-century church in the village is home to the George V Coronation clock which was built for free by the famous villager Jack Spratt who constructed it from household paraphernalia. With its old-world charm, warm hospitality and superb food you could easily spend your entire vacation at this peaceful hideaway. Dinner for two which was superb, including cocktails was $33. A large double room (en suite) in a new house was $55 with one of the best English breakfasts we had.
The Old Rattlebone Inn, on Church Street, Sherston, Wiltshire (Telephone 01666-840871) and only 6 miles off the M4, still has its original stone roof, exposed stone and beams inside. Welcomed by a warm fire and a pint of ale we relaxed near the fire before order our fresh homemade soup and cakes (bill for 2 $18).
The Bell in Alderminsteron on the A3400, 4 miles south of Stratford-upon-Avon, Warkwickshire (telephone 01789-450414) was originally built (late 1300's) as a coaching inn. The imaginative menu changes daily with a wide choice of dishes, and on weekdays a fixed-price two-course lunch for $10 is offered. The Conservatory is a lovely addition to The Bell and is the perfect place to eat and enjoy the views over the garden and the rolling countryside.
The Howard Arms, Lower Green, Ilmington near Shipston on Stour, south of Stratford-on-Avon, Warwickshire (telephone 01608-682226) is a beautiful country pub and inn. Two beautifully furnished large bedrooms, both en suite, are $80 a night with breakfast. The flagstone bar and open seating restaurant with roaring fire was beautiful. The soups, salads and specials are all excellent choices. Lunch for two was $25. This is a real beauty and not too hard to locate.
The best seafood on the trip was at the Bull's Head country pub on Stratford Road (A3400), Wootton Wawen, Warwickshire (telephone 01564-792511), just south of Henley-in-Arden. French onion soup and one of the blackboard seafood specials with ales came to $30 for two. Well worth the stop.
Snowshill Arms in Snowshill, near Broadway in Worcester (telephone 01386-852653) may be a little difficult to get to, but it's well worth the hunt. Set in a small village this freehouse is a gem for lunch. All homecooked specials, ginger beer to drink and delicious desserts. The 14th-century pub is stone-walled inside, with fireplace and all sorts of photographs and artifacts hanging on the walls. Lunch for two was $25 and a steal at that.
The one pub/restaurant we really enjoyed in Wales (some establishments in Wales close for the winter) was the Crown Inn and Restaurant in Llwyndafydd, near New Quay, Dyfed (telephone 01545-560396). This 18th-century inn in the valley of Cwm Tudu is nestled in a nice woodsy environment close to the seacoast. A warm fire and great lunch specials were had for two for $20.
Andrew J. Gnoza, III
Lillian, AL USA 08/08/00
My wife and I enjoy staying in out-of-the-way places when we travel. On a spring trip to England we opted to overnight at country pubs. We did our sightseeing of cities by day and off to the country for meals, grog and bedding. Pubs offer you the luxury of parking your car for the day, taking a stroll before dinner, having a few pints, eating, having a nightcap and going to bed all in one place at very economical prices.
Some of our pubs were really tough to find and a good Ordnance map of the area will help you immensely in finding these jewels. One pub owner told us that we were the third set of Americans to find his pub in the 17 years he has owned it.
We purchased several pub guides here in the States. But do yourself a favor and wait 'til you get to England to buy your tour guidebooks (except those published in the USA). Do your research at home using library books and maps; buy your books over there.
Some of our favorites:
- Our favorite town in Kent is Sandwich, and our favorite pub in this area the Duke William Inn in the village of Ickham, near Littlebourne, Telephone 01227-721308. The solarium dining area was bright and warm and we enjoyed delicious steak and kidney pies for lunch. However no overnight accommodations are available.
- The Hurdlemakers, East Dean, Chichester, West Sussex, telephone 01243-811318. The Hurdlemakers captures the atmosphere of an old village pub where you can relax over a pint or choose something from their extensive menu. The accommodations are in a separate building - the sheep stables that have been converted into three separate bedrooms. The main sitting area also serves as a TV room and breakfast area for overnight guests. A room with two twin beds was $48 and included a continental breakfast. Dinner with cocktails for two was $35.
- Another stop for just food, no accommodations, was The Sailor's Return in East Chaldon, Dorchester, telephone 01305-853847. The views over the rolling hills along with the excellent home-cooked meals are reason enough to track down this establishment, originally an 18th-century thatched-roof cottage.
- In Devon, The New Inn, telephone 01363-84242 and e mail: new-inn@mail.zynet.co.uk. This 13th-century thatched-roof inn sits on the banks of the Cole River. Out in the middle of nowhere, this quaint pub offers overnight accommodations in newly refinished bedrooms. Excellent food at this stop — a must if you are in the area. Ploughman lunches are $7 for a heaping plate of cheeses, ham and salad garnish. Each of the three bedrooms has private bath at $79 for two people including breakfast.
- Our all-time favorite city pub was The Wykeham Arms at 75 Kingsgate Street in Winchester, Hampshire, telephone 01962-853834. Located behind Winchester Cathedral, this public house was built in 1755 and renovated by the new owners to include excellent overnight accommodations. The pub is very traditional serving real ales and excellent pub grub. There were three roaring fires going the rainy day we went in for lunch. A friendly crowd and no rush to get you out of there. Seven bedrooms all en suite are $120 a night including an English breakfast. Lunch for two, including ale was $25.
- The Rose and Crown Country Inn and Restaurant in Woodhill, Stoke St. Gregory, Taunton, Somerset, telephone 01823-490296. This gem is located in an area for nature walks, birdwatching and visiting the local basketmakers' village. Fresh meat and vegetables from local farms and large portions are what bring people back to this pub. The pork chops were the best I have ever eaten and were $7.50! Overnight accommodations are available in the 17th-century pub building at $50 a night for a double room including a terrific English breakfast. Next door is the owners' Sedgemoor Cottage, a restored 250-year-old cottage. It is also available for families year-round for self-catering holidays. Call for rates.
Andrew J. Gnoza, III
Lillian, AL USA 08/08/00
Like many who have written here, I was very surprised to find how much I've enjoyed the food in England.
In London I like to go to the Russell Sq. Tube station, walk to the entrance and turn left, walk about 2 blocks to the "main drag," Southampton Row and turn left again. Two or three blocks down one will see a small overhead sign, "Famous Indian Cuisin." The actual name of the place is the Chambali (sp?). It was my first exposure to Indian food and I've eaten there at least twice every trip since. I will caution you that it is NOT cheap, but is a good place for a special evening's dining. The lamb vandaloo is to die for, but I've never eaten anything there that I didn't find to be far better than average.
For pub grub go to the Archway Underground station, turn left and head up Highgate hill. You will see an old monument to Dick Whittington's cat in the middle of the sidewalk. Just beyond that is a pub called Whittington's Stone which features 12 specials for £2.99! All are surprisingly good including (believe it or not) their chili con carne! In addition, their beer is reasonably cold which made my American palate exceedingly joyous.
In Earl's Court, leave the Tube station and turn left and walk a block or two until you see the STAR KABOB shop. Go in and order a doner kabob. It is cheap, delicious and hotter than any Mexican food you've ever flipped a lip over. I'll warn you, the place is kind of a dive, but the doner kabob is highly addictive and I've actually gone all the way to Earl's Cour specifically to have one. Enjoy!
S. C. DIXON
Emporia, KS USA 07/31/00
My husband and I went to London for 8 days in May, and had a great time. We ate most of our meals in pubs to save time and money. The first thing which struck me about England is that they have no vegetables! Salad was extremely hard to find.
All the meals we had were good; I even liked the "mushy peas" which came with my fish and chips. (Hey, it was a vegetable, even if it IS starchy.) We thought it funny at the Chelsea Kitchen when I ordered lasagna — it came with no bread or salad. Instead, on the plate with it were french fries, peas and carrots! Also, the lasagna had a layer of custard on top, sort of like moussaka. Everything was tasty, and I got soup, lasagna, and steamed pudding with custard sauce for 5 pounds.
We also enjoyed the Cafe in the Crypt at St. Martin in the Fields. I'd thought you could watch the concerts while you ate your lunch, but the concerts are upstairs in the sanctuary.
We had a good meal at Porter's in Covent Garden. My husband really liked his pie, but my Yorkshire pudding was disappointing. I think all of the pubs and most restaurants serve the same frozen/microwaved Yorkshire puddings. Sigh!
We also got a very good meal at the Wagamama, but I wouldn't eat there every day. It was a bit too much like a cafeteria.
A tour guide explained something useful: if a pub says "free house" on the sign, it means it isn't owned by one of the big breweries, and can serve whatever combination of beers, etc. that the owners choose.
Cheryl D'Onofrio
Port Chester, NY USA 07/28/00
You should all check out the local press in London, especially the Standard, an evening paper. Also try the Times, Telegraph, Independent, etc. They often have offers of meals in nice places like the Conran restaurants for £10 or £15 for a fixed menu. You usually have to collect tokens, but not always.
Also, try www.lastminute.com for their favourite restaurant deals.
When tipping, check if service is already included. If not, 10% is fine for the bistro/family-owned places, 12.5% better for the swisher places.
Don't be afraid to ask for tap water or iced water. The prices for mineral water are ludicrous.
Nigel Doran
London, UK 07/28/00
My husband and I have spent a lot of time in England, and can say that there are as many good restaurants in the UK as there are in the USA. The chain pubs will get you chain restaurant food, whereas the individually owned and operated pubs and inns can get you some of the very best in English pub food. These are hard to find in central London, easier to find in smaller towns. There are a lot of choices in ethnic restaurants too: Indian, Thai, Italian, Belgian (Belgo centraal is a top pick). Just don't try to order "American" ethnic, as I have yet to find a good American anything. But after all, if you wanted American, couldn't you have just stayed home?
Rebecca Coy
High Wycombe, UK 07/23/00
In London I had no problem finding good food. The Wagamama noodle bar in Camden Town has a funny name but great food and interesting dining. Japanese miso & fresh fruit juices, done right!
christina ciampa
Boston, Ma USA 07/10/00
Dining in England certainly makes for a wide range of experiences... from wonderful to, well, not. Indian food was always good, pubs less so, and everything was expensive! Thank you, Rick Steves, for your recommendations in York: wonderful Italian food at Mama Mia's on Gillygate, and the tea and scones at Betty's were wonderful. Hot and flaky bacon and cheese pasties from the Cornish Pasty Shop in the old town were perfect lunchtime fare on a drizzly day.
jackie
moraga, ca USA 07/08/00
My husband and I just returned from England and Scotland and we did not have a bad meal.
In York try the "Fat Rascal" scones at Betty's Tea Room.
If you like pubs we recommend The Good Pub Guide, which lists recommended pubs all over Great Britain. Our best pub meal was at the Milecastle Inn (on the B6318 outside Haltwhistle, along Hadrian's Wall).
We tried haggis in Scotland (very good!); the best was at The Abbotsford pub in Edinburgh. Also in Edinburgh was a great Turkish restaurant called Nargile on Hanover St. in the New Town. Happy eating!
Leanne Palmer
Atlanta, GA USA 07/02/00
From one of my trip journals: "Any place in Britain that claims ALL YOU CAN EAT isn't worth it!"
Peggy
Houston, TX USA 06/26/00
We just got back from 2 weeks in England and had many great meals. My favorite (in fact, we went twice) was at the Hawnby Hotel in the village of Hawnby in North Yorkshire, outside of Helmsley. The food was fresh and delicious, and the owners were very friendly, wonderful to my kids, and very helpful with where to go and not go. If you are anywhere in the area, it is worth a stop. And the scenery is beautiful too.
Also had a great meal at the Horse and Groom pub in Oddington, outside of Stow-on-the-Wold.
Our last night in London we had an excellent (although somewhat expensive) meal at El Cid 2 in Knightsbridge. Both the food and service were great! We absolutely enjoyed eating in England.
Roberta Zimmerman
Atlanta, GA USA 06/25/00
In Yorkshire, definitely try an authentic pub meal, and a nice big curry. Keep this in mind especially if you're traveling through Leeds or Bradford, the curry capital of England (Mumtaz or Shah Jahan are the two best curry houses in the city). The most expensive curry in the US isn't anywhere near as good as the cheapest, dodgiest curry you can find in England.
If you go for a pub meal, find one that's recommended by the locals. There are just so many and it's easy to find a bad pub. With a pub meal, you get the true flavor of England.
After a nice Sunday dinner with Yorkshire pudding, vegtables and a thick roast, you'll forget about all the remarks you've ever heard about "bad English food".
Amanda E. Clifford
North Bend, WA USA 06/20/00
Two great places, and cheap, in the SW1 and SW3 areas of London: First, the much-written-about Chelsea Kitchen on Kings Road near Sloane Square is a great place with an extensive menu at unheard-of prices. Portions are big too! A great pub called the Founders Arms can be found next to the new Tate Museum at Bankside. Just take the Underground to Blackfriers, exit the station at walkway #3 and go over the bridge. Once over the bridge, go down the stairs on the left side and head for the New Tate Gallery and the Globe Theatre. The pub is a two-minute walk and on your left. The fish and chips are really special here!
David Rotenberg
San Mateo, Ca USA 06/18/00
I've been to Britain several times, most recently to Cornwall. The best pub meal I had was the steak, Guiness and mushroom pie at the Admiral Nelson in Falmouth. Yummy! I also have taken a liking to Cornish pasties.
I also enjoy shopping for premade sandwiches, etc. at Marks & Spencer, Boots, Tesco. Cheap eats and the English countryside is your table.
In London try, Hung's Chinese on Wadour Street just north of Leicester Square, open until 4am; and Brewmaster Pub, Leicester Square tube at Charing Cross Road. Vegetarians, try Food for Thought on Neal Street, north of Covent Garden Tube. Very cheap and very good; there's usually a line out the door, but it's worth it. However, my best finds are the places I find exploring the backways, mews,lanes and alleyways throughout England. You'll find the friendly locals and have a great time no matter what the cuisine.
Linda S
Milwaukee, WI USA 06/12/00
Try Sally Lunn's in Bath. You can see the original shop (1680, I believe) on the lower level. A Sally Lunn bun (very large and delicious) was served with different choices of toppings, such as roast beef in gravy, etc. Very good. Also enjoyed Brown's in Bath.
In Bourton-on-the-water, had great jacket potatoes.
Favorite dessert of all was called, if I remember correctly, sponge with custard. Mmmm!
Phyllis
Menahga, MN USA 06/07/00
After my trip to Britain, I've really taken a liking to two things: Cornish pasties and digestive biscuits.
Cornish pasties are great! They're flaky pastries filled with meat and potatoes. Quite filling for a lunchtime meal. The best place I found to get them is at a Devon Savouries, which I found in Bath and Salisbury. The non-fresh, wrapped pasties don't even compare with the fresh ones.
Digestive Biscuits are a cross between cookies and crackers. A roll of these and some cheese make an excellent snack while on the train!
Kent Lee
Cleveland, OH USA 06/02/00
Afternoon tea at Simon the Pieman tea house in the Cinque Ports town of Rye was fantastic. The scones were generous and absolutely fresh, and the cream is whipped on the spot. Great stuff. Rye is a town completely overlooked by Rick, but popular with US and English tourists alike. What a beautiful town.
joesantamaria@hotmail.com
USA 05/29/00
Just off Craven Road,near Lancaster Gate, we came to The Mitre pub. We both had roast beef and Yorkshire pudding with roasted potatoes and vegetables. For dessert, my husband had hot spotted dick with custard and I had chocolate fudge cake with cream. Dinner was superb. The zucchini was crisp and yummy. The gravy was simply fabulous with the roasted potatoes. Yummy! Pub grub is definitely the best bet for low cost, hearty, and tasty meals.
doreen
gloucester, nj USA 05/17/00
We caught the tube to South Kensington. We were looking for a Polish restaurant recommended by someone on Rick Steves web site. We couldn't find it even though we looked everywhere. We stopped under an awning to look at the map again, because it had started to rain, and voila! We were standing in front of The Daquise. The food and ambiance were spectacular. I had a Hungarian pancake filled with pork goulash and served with sour cream. Very tasty! My husband had beef stroganoff with buckwheat. Both were fabulous. Thank you to the kind soul who recommended this place.
Doreen
Gloucester, nj USA 05/17/00
I've been to England several times in the last few years and have always enjoyed the food. That certainly wasn't true when I was there in the 80's so I would definitely agree the cuisine has improved with European influences. The best meal either of us had (I'm a strict vegetarian,he's a good ole carnivore) was in Bath at the Walrus and the Carpenter. I believe it's in Rick's picks as well. It is vegetarian, but we both agreed we would have eaten there every night if we could have. The atmosphere is young and trendy, but not at all in a 'dangerous to your wallet' sort of way. This place had character. And I'm still fondly recalling my lasagne. I love pub food and wanted to try every pub I could in every town we visited. I loved the jacket potatoes (more than skins, and with lots of options for toppings), and ploughman's lunch. I eat a lot of Italian food so I often visited the chain Bella Pasta, in Stratford and in London. There was always something new to try. We got snack lunches at the Europa foods chain markets in order to picnic in Regent's Park, and we spent a lot of time at the pubs in the neighborhood, including the Globe on Marylebone. I have to add that I too am a fan of the Texas Embassy Cantina. We found it by accident two years ago, we went back on last year' visit and I fully intend to visit it again this time around. Very good food, lots of veggie options, and prices that are reasonable for London. (if you pretend the prices are all US dollars, and not pounds, you don't have to look so shocked everytime you see them...this only works until the credit card statement comes however)
Emily
Chicago, IL USA 05/12/00
There are Upper Crusts at rail stations and ferry terminals all over England and they do make delicious sandwiches on French baguettes that are easy to eat while traveleing (no mess!) My favorite is the cheese ploughman's (cheese and pickle chutney) Yum!
Christine
Boston, MA USA 05/11/00
It IS sometimes difficult to find a good meal in England, at least one that is affordable. We picked up sandwiches at the Tesco or Marks and Spencer's which are excellent. We ate many sandwiches at The Upper Crust in the York train station. I wish I had one right now.
Oh, and they did ask us if we needed extra serviettes, so some places still don't call them napkins. [Editor's note: "Napkin" has a different connotation in Britain. Use their term, "serviette," or risk embarrassment!]
If you are ever in Horley near Gatwick Airport make the effort to go to "Ye Olde Six Bells" and have the beef and Bass Ale pie. It's amazing!
Sarah Dorsey
Greenwood, IN USA 05/08/00
To second J.S. Lyon below, North Sea Fish restaurant on Leigh Street is a find! The fish portions are large and the fish is delicious, though it is not that inexpensive. I used to live near there about 10 years ago and often ordered take away there for dinner. I just returned in April and it's still good!
Christine
Boston, MA USA 05/01/00
Just returned from another trip to London and discovered several enjoyable restaurants. The first is North Sea Fish Restaurant at 7-8 Leigh Street(Russell Square tube) for excellent fish and chips and cozy atmosphere. The second is Goya Spanish Restaurant and Tapas Bar at 2 Eccleston Place (Victoria Station tube). The food was great, and the tapas portions were generous. We ordered several different selections and enjoyed sharing. This place is also open all afternoon so you can have an early dinner before going to the theatre. The third is Cafe Pacifico at 5 Langley Street (Covent Garden tube). There is good Mexican food in London afterall. Happy Eating in London.
j s lyon
St. Charles, IL USA 04/29/00
We just returned from a 9-day budget trip to London and were very pleased with the inexpensive and delicious food we could find. We relied mainly on take-out sandwiches creatively made by chains like Pret a Manger and Aroma and museum cafes. We also stocked up on goodies from grocery stores. Then we discovered the Harrods Department Store food halls and gorged ourselves on all the delicious (and cheap!!!) tidbits and single portions of quiche and other savory pastries we could devour in our last three days. Harrods was no more expensive than McDonald's. For 10 pounds total the two of us could get really stuffed on a take-out dinner of Indian, French, Middle Eastern, and English treats including fancy dessert. The very best tactic we had, though, was to always have a bag of snacks, peeled orange segments, shortbread biscuits, small bottle of water, and caffeine pills(!) in our daypack. Thus, we didn't have to interrupt sightseeing to find a restaurant in the middle of the day.
Leslie O'Brien
Aberdeen, WA USA 04/28/00 Here are some budget options you can find most anywhere in the UK:
Idea #1 — Pizza and pasta buffets. Most of the chains do all-you-can-eat pizza, pasta, chips, and salad for £4-5. Look for Pizza Hut, Pizza Land, or Deep Pan Pizza. This is my mainstay when in London.
Idea #2 — National pub chains. Most pubs belong to a brewery chain, the name of which will be on the building or signage. While any pub will do good food and beer, you're guaranteed great food and beer at a fab price from any Hogshead pub (I've been to ones in Durham, Manchester, Lichfield, and Leeds). Most do two meals for £6. Another chain to look for is Weatherspoons, which usually do two meals for £5, but it's not as good. Firkin pubs are supposed to have good food, too.
Idea #3 — Curry or Chinese. Most of these do buffets for 5 or 6 quid, but takeaway is cheaper. Manchester has a Chinatown and what they call the Curry Mile, both with dozens of restaurants. Manchester also has Yang Sing, Europe's best gourmet Chinese restaurant (but expensive!).
Idea #4 — Tesco. Loads of fresh sandwiches, crisps, chocolates, the lot. The larger ones also do hot meals. Cheaper than Marks & Spencer, too.
Personally, I don't enjoy fish and chips. Sure, it's cheap, but it's also salty and greasy. Most chippies are depressing, unhygenic, in grim neighbourhoods, and attract a rough crowd.
robert macrae
Manchester, UK 04/25/00
British Food is highly under-rated - no joke! Well prepared pub food or dining in a good pub is an excellent alternative to often overpriced resturaunts. The Star, in Sulgrave (near Washington's Ancesteral home) serves delicous traditional steak and ale pies. Ask for Coleman's hot mustard, and you'll never say English food is bland again.
Biaggo (spelling?), between Embankment and Charing Cross tube stations, has delicious and native-style Italian cuisine (my Italian mother approved!!) and is surprisingly reasonably priced, even with the current exchange rates!
Christine
Boston, MA USA 04/24/00
Try the Palais de Jardin, near to Covent Garden, for reasonable fixed-price menus both at lunch and at dinner. Also, on Drury Lane, try Buona Sera, a fantastic Italian restaurant (though the owners are Italian and Spanish and the wacky waitresses often pretend to be either or both!) The portions are big, the service is good, the atmosphere is banging and the prices are fair. For example, the pizzas are about 16'' across and cost less than $10 for a good choice of toppings. Look in Time Out for more choices.
Nigel Doran
USA 04/22/00
FOr a bit of a splurge - money and calories! - we loved Club Gascon on West Smithfield St., East London. If you are a diehard fan of foie gras, this is the place for you! 12 different kinds on the menu! This is not a place for vegetarians, however. The service is highly attentive and the restaurant is small, only about 20 tables. We will return on future trips!
Christine
Boston, MA USA 04/21/00
New restaurant in Bath. We happened upon Cafe du Monde, newly opened in March 2000 and had a tasty and reasonable meal. Located at 1A North Parade, phone 01225 466 437. Owned by friendly and helpful Mustafa Beujelloun from Morocco. Had great BBQ ribs!
Vince Schuppert
Orange Park, FL USA 04/19/00
Is it possible that the best meal I ever had came while visting ENGLAND?! It may very well be true. Tilley's Bistro in Bath was so wonderful that we visited twice and would have gone a third time had time allowed. Now we're planning a visit to Bath on our next English holiday just so we can eat at Tilley's again.
Tom Lawton
Somerville, MA USA 04/17/00
I hate to admit it, but because money was very tight on our trip and time was at a premium (especially in London), we often ate Cadbury bars out of the everpresent vending machines or at gas stations. They were inexpensive, delicious and are served chilled in the machines. Combined with a large B&B breakfast, we were able to greatly reduce the amount we spent on food this trip. When we arrived home, I was saddened to find that our American Cadbury bars taste VERY different.
Martin
Hamilton, OH USA 04/14/00
For a nice dinner out, try the pre theatre specials offered by many restaurants in London. Our favorite was Christopher's, in Covent Garden (#18 Wellington Street). Their fixed price meal included a starter, main dish (14.50). Add dessert if you wanted(17.50). There were several main dish choices, including pasta, fish and steak. The main dishes came with generous servings of excellent side dishes. We skipped dessert, and had coffee, which they served with chocolates and some wonderful jelly candies. This is not an inexpensive place, but is a great value when you want a really nice meal early or before the theatre. The service was wonderful, and it is an attractive restaurant.
JAC
New Orleans, LA USA 04/10/00
We recently returned from a month's trip in London and Paris. We stayed in the Nottinghill Hill area and explored the restaurants. We must say that our most memorable meals were at Kensington Place on Kensington Church Street. It is very much like Chez Panisse in their food concepts ( and prices but everything in Britain is pricey). The waitstaff is the greatest. The crowds are mostly young and it is very noisey. The fish melts in your mouth. One night I had a salad with truffles that was mouthwatering. You can make a meal of two starters. The wine prices are reasonable for London. Be sure to get reservations for the weekend. It was really special.
mickey and frank
san rafael, calif USA 04/08/00
McDonagh's Fish and Chips on Quay Street in Galway. I second that. The best I've ever had in my life. I had (get ready) not only the fish and chips, but also the crab. At one sitting. Helps to have friends to mooch off of!
A Horn
CA USA 03/31/00
For those of you out there who are not gourmands, and after hours of sightseeing just want to go "home" and put your feet up, here's the thing to do. My husband and I just returned from a week in London. Our hotel was just two blocks from Paddington Station where we discovered a take-away stand called Souper Douper that offered a variety of wonderful soups and different breads. We'd each order a large cup of soup and a small french bread and return to our hotel room, stopping along the way for a couple of bananas at the grocer, and a bottle of wine at the wine shop. Then we'd relax and enjoy our dinner while watching the BBC. Also, if you're looking for a quick and healthy lunch, stop at one of the many Pret A Manger's in London. They have fresh ready-made sandwiches that are absolutely delicious! One day we took our sandwiches and drinks and enjoyed our lunch on the steps of St. Paul's Cathedral.
Karen Leedom
Gearhart, OR USA 03/31/00
Oh yeah, I forgot! You should also try some of the Kosher places in the Golder's Green area in North London. Excellent Middle Eastern food and quite an interesting atmoshphere!
Eric Shen
USA 03/30/00
The Indian food in London is excellent. The service sometimes leaves a little to be desired, but the food is still great. Cheap too!
Eric Shen
Potomac, MD USA 03/30/00
For picnics, there are yogurt packages that have the yogurt and fruit in separate compartments, to be mixed. The closest thing found here is a "dessert yogurt." The most spectacular thing is the individual trifle! In the dairy case, next to the yogurt, are little packages that look like pudding cups. Look again. They even have real whipped cream! For a major splurge, buy the "family size", in a package that is shaped like a gelatine mold. The two of us polished one off in short order. Also, there is a grocery chain whose name starts with a "T." Can't think of the name, but they have a loaf of bread, baked in the store, that has a name like, "King Jaws," or something like that. Wonderful! Also, are we the only ones that like Cadbury's "Fruits & Nuts" bar or the hazelnut bar?
Peggy
Houston, TX USA 03/30/00
Khan's in Bayswater is great! From the Bayswater Underground, turn left on Queensway, go a couple hundred yards to Westbourne Grove, turn left. The Indian/Bengali food is absolutely delicious, reasonably priced, and the restaurant is an experience in itself. As their T-shirts say, if you haven't been to Khan's, you haven't been to London.
simone
Portland, OR USA 03/29/00
Try Cadbury's Chocolate — especially Wispa Gold. The best, and cheap!
Jenny
IA USA 03/28/00
In Galway City, Ireland, I had dinner twice at a great seafood restaurant called McDonagh's Fish and Chips on Quay Street. If you go before 6:30, you miss the big dinner rush. The restaurant is tiny, but the food is incredible.
Mary
New York, NY USA 03/27/00
On our last night in London, we wanted a celebration. So what better than to go to Maggie Jones, in Notting Hill (per R. Steve's guide). So off we went, in a bit of a rain. When we arrived, we were charged a "cover charge", which was unexpected. We had the worst possible service, from waiters that made it clear we were not wanted (even to pouring requested water into my wine glass!!). The food was good, but it was overall a grim experience. BEWARE. However, there's a delightful pub just 1 mile from Stow-0n-the-Wold in a tiny, 3 street town, which has WONDERFUL food. My husband a great wild duck dish, and I had wild boar sausage, with salad and veggies. It's not hard to find - it's the only pub in a tiny town. Try it!
Julia Mosman
Minneapolis,, MN USA 03/27/00
Just came home after 10 days in England.(This was my first trip to Europe-hopefully there will be many more) we went to a few of the recommended restaurants in Rick's London 2000 Guide book. All were very good, I think one of the best meals that I ate was at the "Duke of Wellington" Pub in the Belgravia section of London.(it was very hard to find but worth the trip) On St. Patricks Day the house special was Irish stew which was followed by a pint of Guiness Stout. It was a wonderful lunch. (This pub was also recommended by a worker at the "Cafe in the Crypt."(unfort. didn't get his name-he was proud that he helped train the cook at the pub). I would also highly recommend Cafe in the Crypt- we went there a few times. The atmosphere was outstanding-dark and candlelit, the food was very good, and prices were reasonable. Also it was a nice place to relax as you could eat and converse at your leisure, you were not rushed out of there.
ted heiser
Chapel Hill, NC USA 03/20/00
While visiting Winchester, England last year, we stayed at the delightful Hotel du Vin. The room was delightful, clean and beautiful and the Aberdeen Angus steak that I had, with sugar snaps, pomme fritte and salad was one of the best meals that I have ever enjoyed. For dessert, creme brulee and all of the wine we could drink. We also enjoyed the traditional (cod)fish and chips at a local place, Oliver's, and got Hampshire (homemade) sausage rolls and sausage sandwiches, along with Victorian lemonade. At the Crown and Anchor I enjoyed the pie and mash, while my husband had the steak and chips. Everywhere we went the food was excellent and well-priced, so much for the old saw about lousy English cooking!
Sandra Magers
Dallas, TX USA 03/13/00
With the continental European influence, the selection and quality of food in the UK is terrific. We were over in October 1999 and made great use of the sandwich chains ( Pret a Manger, Aroma, etc. ) where for £ 3 or so we ate fabulous thai chicken sandwiches, or shrimp salad, etc. For a reasonable change, try the West End Kitchen on Panton Street across from Her Majesty's Theatre at Haymarket (Phantom of the Opera) or The Chelsea Kitchen on King's Road in Chelsea. These cafes are spartanly furnished but have marvellous and inexpensive food, with daily specials including set piece 3 course meals for £ 6.00.
Craig McHaffie
Victoria, BC Can 03/12/00
Geales was the best fish and chips that I had in London. It not only tasted awsome, but the presentation of the fish on the plate, was pleasing to the eye. Another top-notch place for fish and chips, and more resonalbly priced, is The Clarence. This is located just down fron the National Gallary, towards Big Ben.
SDK
Mpls, MN USA 03/11/00
First off - ENGLISH TEA!! I've finally accepted the fact that I need to make a yearly trip to re-stock my supply!! I prefer the Harrod's Earl Gray. But, anything is delicious! I love the Trebor mints. They're individually wrapped, and come in bags. Highly recommended! I restock my supply there to... If you like fish and chips. ESPECIALLY chips!! Try Mickey's! Last year they were only like 90p. for a huge thing! And they're really good!! There's one around the Paddington station area. And also in Bayswater. It's near the TGIFriday's on Queensway... (I think that's the restaurant there!). If you like jellies/jams - nothing can compare to Fortnum and Masons!! My parents have me re-stock their supply yearly! Marks and Spencers had good salad's (HUGE!), to grab and go! They're sandwiches are recommended too! Eat up and enjoy!
Kelly
IN USA 03/02/00
Oh man, Irn Bru! I love it, I love it, I love it! I've been to Scotland a few times now, and a vacation there would never be complete without a few bottles.
Heather Macmichael
dartmouth, Nova Scotia, NS CAN 03/02/00
On my first trip to Europe in 1997, we visited England and France. The best meal of the whole trip was found at an elegant little pub, The Three Tonnes, in the small town of Osmotherly in Yorkshire. The town itself was utterly charming. We had broiled salmon in a wonderful leek sauce, the two of us, for about $35! The dining room behind the bar is non-smoking and quite cozy.
Linda Swift
Ann Arbor, MI USA 02/28/00
My teenage son could have lived on fish n chips from sidewalk stands. I found the overabundance of Indian food exciting as a vegetarian - don't forget the spicy bean burgers at Burger King. But our favorites were Mr. Kiplings cherry tarts, Hob Nob biscuits and Rowntree fruit gums. Mmmmm. Wish I'd brought home a suitcase full of Hob Nobs.
Gary
Hanford, CA USA 02/23/00
I just returned from a week in London, and ate at many of the places mentioned in "Rick Steves' London" guide (which I recommend buying for a first trip London). My favorites were places where people are seated together, either on benches or at bars. This seemed to be the best way to really place one's self right in the midst of the constant buzz that is London. For a bit of a splurge (dinner for two #40), try Belgo Centraal, a very cool and delicous Belgian beer hall near Covent Garden (try the Belgian ice cream and a "pint" the size of a small garbag can). For great Asian noodle dishes, in a hip open atmosphere, try Wagamama in Soho, and nearby Yo! Sushi. I had great Indian food right on Neal Street in Covent Garden at place called The Punjab Restaurant. A quiet, elegant atmosphere, with attentive service, but at a reasonable price (#25 for two), and right in the middle of the outrageous local scene. For pub grub, I went to the Windsor Castle Pub in Notting Hill Gate. Just a few blocks from the tube station, but a great place to sit amongst the locals, in a clean, atmospheric pub that serves great food (good sausage), and is far removed from the pubs that cater primarily to visitors. For tea, I would recommend splurging and doing it right at a classy department store or hotel, and avoiding some of the tourist cafes and bakeries. I went to Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly, a store that makes Nordstrom look like Chubby & Tubby, and had afternoon tea at the St. James Restaurant on the 4th floor. This is what one thinks of when imagining a "real" English afternoon tea. The food, the elegant atmosphere, the "aristocratic" types dressed seemingly from another era, and great service (#33 for two). Try to stay away from the pizza and sandwich joints found every five feet in areas such as Piccadilly, as they tend to be expensive and the food isn't that great. Each of the restaurants I mentioned above were true dining "experiences."
David
Seattle, WA USA 02/22/00
My husband and I just returned from 10 glorius days in London. We can't wait to visit again. Although London restaurants can be expensive, every single meal was a treat. Our recommendations: Maggie Jone's for Fish Pie or Saddle of Hare. Wonderful Creme Brulee. Pied-A-Terre - expensive but the food keeps coming, Try the John Dorry or Sole dishes (They also have a website.) La Pont du la Tour - A little expensive but spectacular view, delicious food, great service. The Bristish Museum - nice cafe - wonderful curried parsnip soup. Tom's Deli - off Portobello Rd. - very small bistro but the best crab cakes. Manzie's - Steamed Halibut and Broiled King Prawns, YUM Concerto Cafe - Regent's Street - Bakery with all kinds of desserts. Brie/Bacon Sandwich and Parmesean/Ham Toastie were delish.. River Cafe - Scallops or Fish Stew. Chocolate Nemisus Cake to die for or Walnut Cake. The Ivy on West Street - Halibut or Scallops. Delicious Sticky Toffee pudding.
Marie
Memphis, TN USA 02/16/00
One of the best meals I've had on my travels was the vegetarian haggis (yes, really) at Deacon Brodie's Pub in Edinburgh. I tried it purely out of curiosity and it was wonderful. Highly recommended! In the smaller villages it was a bit trickier finding vegetarian food - but I had some very enjoyable 'picnics' of takeaway sandwiches, fruit and yogurt.
USA 02/08/00
Stuff worth looking for:
-Take home a small box of a product called Bisto. It is a thickener/flavor enhancer for gravy (nothing like that horrible Gravy Master, I assure you). No respectable English mum makes Shepard's Pie without it. This stuff is actually worth schlepping back to America.
-Mc Vitie's biscuits (cookies), especially the Flapjacks, are really good.
-Fortnum and Mason department store has a great food hall. They are one block from Piccadilly Circus, and their own brand handmade Scottish Shortbreads put Walker's to shame.
-Hula Hoops (kinda like Pringles)and Walker's Crisps (Roast Chicken Flavor Potato Chips-I'm not kidding, they sound gross, but are great) are popular snacks with us. Available at Tesco, Safeway, Somerfield, anywhere. Happy hunting.
Stratford, NJ USA 02/03/00
Concerning the entry below about sandwiches in plastic triangles: on the Tube one day, I sat opposite a woman who was trying to open such a sandwich. (yes, you are allowed to eat on the Tube) She pulled and picked at each corner unsuccessfully, finally looking up at me in frustration. I suggested she try to pierce the plastic with her keys. That didn't work, either. If only she'd had a pocket knife! I never had any trouble but I guess some are sealed more tightly than others.
Carol
Reston, VA USA 01/27/00
we really liked Cockney's...think it was on or very near portabello road at the end of the market. you've not done London without the pie and mash, mash and eels, eels and pie and mash, mash, mash...oh, and don't forget the green liquor on top, never you mind what it is. the ladies that serve up these delicious local specialities will smile and call you love.
kerry pennings
mpls, mn USA 01/26/00
My husband and I have been to London many times. One of our favorite regular spots is Pizza Express. They have very reasonably priced pizza in a funky modern atmosphere. The pizza is great and they are pretty fast if you are on the run.
We also discovered a new favorite. The Lido Restaurant on the south edge of the Serpentine in Hyde Park had a great full English breakfast for 4.5 pounds. You can sit at tables next to the Serpentine and watch the world go by.
Deb
Milwaukee, WI USA 01/21/00
After reading many of the comments below, I'm homesick for London! We've spent 3 summer sessions there, teaching at Regent's College in Regent's Park, for Oklahoma State U's Summer in London program. The open-air cafe in Regent's Park, near Queen Mary's Rose Garden, has good soups, sandwiches, and desserts. Take lunch out into the park and rent a deck chair (one pound/4 hours) for lovely scenery and people-watching.
Warning: CORNETTOS ARE HABIT-FORMING. These are similar to our "drumstick" ice cream cone novelties, but much better.
Walk down Marylebone High Street (perpendicular to Marlyebone Road) for an area with many good places to eat. We had a wonderful evening at Verbanella (Italian), and another at the Afghan House nearby. These are on side streets, but easy to see from M. High St.
We agree with others: Tesco Supermarkets are inexpensive for food; they have good personal care products, too. Their printed facial tissues were really nice; we took out tissues and flattened the boxes as lightweight novelties to bring home. Cullen's grocery chains are more widely available and stay open late; their cooked foods and individually packed sandwiches and dishes were usually quite good.
Biggest disappointment last summer (1999) — not so many places offer scones, and there didn't seem to be as many really good scones around. On the other hand, McVities' Biscuits (cookies) are in every convenience store and grocery, very inexpensive, and some are truly yummy.
We like Tex-Mex, and agree with those who like Texas Embassy. It's definitely on our list for repeat visits — even if they don't have anyone who says "Y'all."
My only problem with the food was cream left out on tables; individual packets of powdered creamer are a lot safer. Intestinal distress is no fun. Also, if you're a wimpy American who likes to drink lots of not-too-strong coffee, try Tesco or Rombaud individual coffee filters, sold in boxes of 10.
Ruth Krieger
Stillwater, OK USA 01/21/00
Our last trip, we rented a flat in Notting Hill for a week. This was bliss in itself, but we got some great eating tips from the May 1998 issue of Bon Appetit. Marks and Spencer's has the most incredible range of frozen dinners and most of the ones we tried were really good. If you have access to a kitchen it's a great way to eat cheaply and well. As for restaurants, we mostly ate at pubs, and I generally had vegetarian food.
I didn't have my kids with me, and I must admit I gave a silent cheer every time we went by a McDonald's and didn't go in, but that didn't stop me from noticing that chicken nuggets are available almost everywhere, including pubs. Parents, vegetarians and teetotalers should take note: it's still okay to go into a pub and have only a meal. Many pubs have family rooms and a lot of the pubs we saw on the road even had playgrounds that were clearly visible from inside the pub.
If you don't want to go to a pub, look for a Brown's. We've known and loved the one in Oxford for years, but there are two in London, one in Cambridge (I believe this is the original) and a few others I don't know about. The place is noisy and crowded but the food is good and it has definite atmosphere.
My favorite this past trip? Roasted vegetables and millet with Parmesan cheese and a glass of ale, eaten outdoors at a picnic table outside of The Head of The River in Oxford.
If you're really pushed for time, be brave and try one of those sandwiches in a triangular plastic box. We had some at a place in Regent's Park because we were hungry and desperate. Bit in with some trepidation, but the sandwiches were really freshly made, so even the cheddar cheese with tomato and chutney wasn't even remotely soggy. Washed it down with a box of Ribena and resumed our search for the Zoo (we'd made a wrong turn and ended up in Queen Mary's Rose Gardens — stunning on a June day).
Joanne DeVogt Roczniak
Burke, VA USA 01/05/00
We found a great Polish restaurant just east of the north entrance to the South Kensington tube station (on the corner). Great prices (under $10 for a dinner entree), delicious food, and courteous service. There seemed to be a lot of Italian restaurants in this area but that's not what we were in the mood for (and later heard that most aren't all that good). The Polish restaurant was perfect.
Maudeen
Bainbridge Island, wa USA 01/04/00
For breakfast in London try DINO's Italian cafe right across from Gloucester Tube stop. And drinks at the OXO tower will provide the best view of London.
Peter
CO USA 01/03/00
Blackpool is great! The food is excellent at the Washington — try the double deal. You can't get that quality of food here in the States for that little bit of money! P.S. Stay away from the kabobs!
bill vogel
lambertville, nj USA 01/03/00