Food Lovers' France: 2000
Snails... horse meat... tongue... goose liver paté... stinky cheese.... Even people who like American fast food might enjoy Europe's top cuisine. Share your best treats in France.
My favorite eats in France:
Pain au chocolat (AKA Chocolatines in the south of France)...I could live off those chocolate-filled croissants.
Cassoulet is by FAR one of my favorite meals! You cannot go to France without trying this filling peasant-type food. Beans, duck confit, Toulouse sausage, with a crusty hunk of bread and a glass of Corbières....mmmmm.
Pérail cheese was my favorite of the ones I tried.
On the other hand, I hated the milk, and I don't like Orangina!
Jamie <email>
Or USA 12/21/00
Just returned from Belgium and France. Rick's recommendation in Paris, Leo Le Lion, just off Rue Cler, was quite good. We were warmly welcomed, even though we were the only non-French in the whole place, and our waiter went out of his way to make us feel comfortable. The food was delicious and the appetizers were served family-style — large bowls and platters of pate, lentils, salad, etc. brought over to the table and not taken away until we said "enough!" Then on to the main course. Many of the menu choices were Normandy style - in fact I had a fillet of fish that was identical to a dish I had eaten just a few days earlier in Mont St Michel. Bottom line, this is a very good place and well worth a visit. Also very fairly priced.
Bill
USA 12/20/00
The best restaurants in Paris were Chinese. The food was very delicious, and the service was efficient. Chinatown Olympiades, in the 13th Arrondissement, and Le Mandarin, in the 7th Arrondissement, were excellent.
Caryn Perlman and Robert Perlman <email>
Forest Hills, NY USA 12/10/00
I accidently stumbled upon La Fabrique, a restaurant in Salon-de-Provence (South of France) that I thought was wonderful. It is very much in the spirit of what Rick Steves writes about. It is small and family-run and the owner, after he cooks, will come to chat with you, and takes a personal interest in how much you enjoy the food (and you will). After my meal, he sat with me and gave me touring tips in Provence and even marked up a map which he gave to me as a parting gift.
It's mainly Italian and pasta dishes, fairly inexpensive, small and a nice atmosphere. Special note: get the tiramisu! (75 rue de l'horloge, 13300 Salon-de-Provence, FRANCE, Tel: 04-90-56-07-39)
Dave Drasin <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 11/21/00
I lived in Paris for a bit, and not having a fat bankroll mandated that I eat fairly cheaply. So, I really grew to love the 4F70 baguette, and made it my mission in life to find a better one each time. Two places I can recall having consistently good bread (not just baguettes, but fancy stuff to boot): Boulangerie Paul, in the 2e arrondisement, rue Montorgueuil; and Le Pain Quotidien, in the Marais (4e arr., Metro Hotel de Ville,). It would be a shame to leave Paris not having eaten a proper baguette. Believe me, there IS a difference!
An additional treat that you can get at the supermarket is drinkable yogurt. Yoplait makes one that goes by the brand name Yop. Comes in a 1-L jug, in about 12 different flavors. Sounds disgusting but is indeed tasty. Only costs about 10F, too.
Elizabeth Riley <email>
San Diego , CA USA 11/19/00
My daughter and I were given a restaurant recommendation by a Paris local. The restaurant is La Beliere, on the rue Daguerre, near the catacombs. The street is very similar to the rue Cler, although much less touristy.
The restaurant looks quite funky with very loud carpeting on the floor and walls, but the food is TDF. Try the moules aux poireaux (stew of mussels with leeks and cream) served hot and bubbly in an earthenware bowl, with lots of bread. The salade croton is my favorite, a plate of tender salad greens, each perfectly coated with dressing, topped with melted goat cheese on baguette rounds. The desserts are divine — make sure you leave room for the tarte tatin, that buttery upside-down apple tart with tangy creme fraiche on the side.
The last time we were there (summer of 2000) a complete meal cost about 78 francs (about $10). Such a deal! Let me mention too that later on in the evening, musicians usually perform jazz, right around the time food coma starts setting in and you have to pinch yourself to realize that yes, you are in Paris!
Alice <email>
San Francisco, california USA 11/19/00
Rick's recommendation of La Petite Bouclerie in the Latin Quarter of Paris was right on the mark! In an area full of seemingly tourist-trap restaurants, this small restaurant is a refreshing exception! The owner-waiter(??) said that he would like to meet Rick Steves...because he would like to thank him for his recommendation.
Kaye Cummings
Ft. Worth, TX USA 11/15/00
In Paris, Angelina's has been mentioned online before...but only for their Africain Hot Chocolate. I want to recommend their dessert specialty, a mound of hazelnut strings over a creamy white center, over a crispy small macaroon wafer. Remember the deli scene from "When Harry Met Sally"? That was me when eating this specialty of the house from Angelina's. "OH MY G-D!!!"
Debbie Dallin <email>
Cooper City, FL USA 11/11/00
Spinach Bourekas and a different style of corned beef sandwiches can be had in the Marais district at Finkelstajn's Deli. There is a corner in which to eat. Pimento is the different ingredient in the bourekas and a pimento mayo is a new ingredient in the corned beef sandwich, along with pickle and tomato, and it was wonderful. It was very crowded but worth the wait for a counter spot. It is near the new Jewish Museum.
Debbie Dalin <email>
Cooper City, FL USA 11/11/00
Try chopped liver terrine at Au Gourmand de Lisle in Paris. Ask for Vincent (waiter). Make friends with those sitting next to you for a memorable evening.
In Normandy, near Nasy, France, at Moulin de Fourges, we had a Country Terrine appetizer in a picturesque setting. The inn has a waterwheel and is by a stream. The setting for the inn made for my BEST pictures from my whole trip to England and France!
Debbie Dalin <email>
Cooper City, FL USA 11/11/00
Back from first time in Paris. Too bad we found the moules (mussels) on our last night. At Falstaff restaurant right on the Place de la Bastille they were great. They have several different ways of serving them. We had moules Roquefort. One order, a very large bowl enough for two, is 50FF.
Try the roast chestnuts that vendors sell in the parks — a good snack. We paid 20FF for ours.
Do not order a chocolat and banane crepe to go. Way, way too messy to eat. It dripped all over the place.
Rick's Rue Cler for food is much less diverse and exciting then Rue Rivoli in the Marais. The best place we saw for a taste treat and visual food interest was Rue Lepic just near the Blvd Clichy and Montmarte area. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a nearby park, where you could "emporter" (take away) all of the goodies you might find and sit down to enjoy them. At any rate, Paris this last week was not enjoying weather that allows for sitting in parks for picnics.
One more thing - we had our AM coffee fix at our hotel (35FF for petite dejeuner) even though Rick is against it. But it got us large cups of coffee with refills. Some days we had only coffee (and they did not charge us). Going to cafes for coffee is expensive — 15FF for a cafe au lait, and not even as good as the hotel coffee. Or stand at the bar and drink a cafe espress for 6FF. That will do for me in a pinch.
Ken <email>
USA 11/08/00
Fifteen years ago, I went to Paris for my first trip in France. I found Les Marmites d'agnès, 1 bis Augereau 75007 — a spendid restaurant but also a great friend. Year after year, I still go "chez Agnès" each time I visit Paris. The food is some of the best you can have at this price in Paris. Agnès is now a good friend for me and I hope you will meet her.
Diane Nantel <email>
Montreal, QC Canada 11/07/00
Provence gem: We found an outstanding restaurant just 2 km outside of Gordes. See www.luberon-news.com/clos-gustave/index.htm (you can reserve on their website, but in the off-season it is not a problem to just call from there). A very classy place with fantastic local cuisine at very reasonable prices.
joelle khouzam <email>
columbus, oh USA 11/06/00
To enjoy your favorite French treats again right at home, head to a Trader Joe's store in the US, where they sell Orangina, cheeses, Nutella, and imported Orangade from France. Be careful, the prices are expensive, but where else can you get these products. Splurge, it's worth every cent. Hopefully Trader Joe's will expand their locations as well as their French items.
Daniel Onn <email>
Saratoga, CA USA 10/29/00
Phil and others: First question should be, why would you want American-style coffee in France?
After our trip to Italy 10 years ago, we finally appreciated what good coffee was supposed to taste like. In Italy you can order Americano which is the tea pot of hot water and an espresso. Combined it's better than most American brewed coffee. A couple years ago found we could get the same thing in France but don't remember how we ordered it.
We do miss the American tradition of free refills, but will gladly trade quality for quantity. Second hope is that the Folger's Coffee bags are well hidden. I would hate to think that the Europeans would believe that a Folgers Coffee Bag is "good, American coffee."
Frank P <email>
Centennial, CO USA 10/12/00
Don't understand people (like Phil, below) who claim they can't get a 'decent cup of coffee' in Paris. Just order an 'allongé' - a coffee with more water. It is a little stronger than American coffee, but then so is most dishwater. You can always have warm milk with your coffee, too.
Maria Gatti <email>
Montréal, Québec - Canada 10/07/00
Like Rick says, the Rue Cler is a great place to get a picnic lunch. However, it's not much of a back door anymore. I was there two weeks ago and practically all the folks were Americans with the Rick Steves guidebooks. I asked Parisian travel experts who confirmed that, because of Rick, the Rue Cler is now a trendy tourist-ridden area.
That's not so bad, but I learned that each arrondissment has a similar pedestrian street chock-full of food stores that are cheaper because they aren't overrun by Yanks.
Otherwise, Rue Cler is a nice place to stay and I'll definitely stay at the nearby Hotel Mars anytime I'm in Paris. Just be aware it's not a back door anymore, nor is it your only local food option.
David Moye <email>
San Diego, ca USA 10/06/00
Two blocks behind the Pantheon in the Latin Quarter are a couple of streets, the Rue Descartes and Rue Mouffetard, filled with all kinds of restaurants. We ate at a little place called Jardin les Artemis — a small, lively place with really good food and a fun atmosphere.
Fred <email>
kenmore, wa USA 10/06/00
France is definitely a place to go to eat well, and we had some good meals, especially in Paris. But on several occasions we found ourselves not wanting to sit down and spend a couple of hours eating, but rather be out seeing the city. For something quick that you can take with you on your way around town, stop by the number of Greek sandwich shops in the Latin Quarter and on the Right Bank near the Hotel de Ville.
One night I got a gyro with fries for 24 francs. It was huge and probably the most satisfying meal I ate in all of Paris. The best is near the Hotel de Ville, off the Rue de Rivoli on Rue de Renard. If you walk out the Bazaar Hotel de Ville corner closest to the Place Hotel de Ville and walk a block toward the Louvre then turn right for a half-block up the Rue de Renard you'll see it. We took the sandwiches to the place and took a break. It's a nice change and a meal that fits well into a busy day.
Scott <email>
Washington, DC USA 09/28/00
Thanks to Rick Steves for recommending Angelina Tea Salon in Paris. It's at 226 Rue de Rivoli near the Louvre and shouldn't be missed. I've never had hot chocolate like that! It was amazing. The food and service were good too. Take a break from sightseeing and enjoy Angelina.
Lisa Anglesea <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 09/27/00
In Paris, try La Champ de Mars Bar-Brasserie at 45, Ave. de la Bourdonnais. Just a short walk to the Eiffel Tower, so after dinner you can stroll over to enjoy it lighted up, and don't forget the sparkle lights are on the first 10 minutes of every hour.
Mary Rankin
San Anselmo, ca USA 09/26/00
We found that it is hard to get a generous cup of American-style coffee in France. I was happy drinking tea, but some Americans cannot start the day without a fix. We have a plan for next time. I'll take Folger's Coffee Bags and order tea. I'll substitute the coffee bag for the tea bag and voila, just like home. I've used the coffee bag for a long time and they do a good job. I always recieved a pot of hot water that was bigger than you get in the USA. Bon voyage.
Phil Melampy <email>
Middletown, OH USA 09/26/00
Glad to see that Cafe du Marche on Rue Cler was highlighted on Rick's latest Paris TV segment. We'll always remember their Poulet Fermier with the silver-dollar-sized potatoes. The cafe is just down the street from the Grande Hotel Leveque.
George Miller
Ames, IA USA 09/22/00
We really believe that if you follow the red Michelin Guide you can have a wonderful food experience. They use an icon called the Bib Gourmand which is right on the money. The restaurants are very local and the quality/price ratio is usually very good.
For anyone with deep pockets, the best three-star Michelin-rated restaurant in Paris is Pierre Gagnaire. Over the years we have 'dined' in many three-stars and by our comparison Gagnaire is the best!
barbara <email>
NYC, ny USA 09/18/00
Re: "the best ice cream in the world," I second the comments about "Soleileis" in Arles. It's directly across the narrow rue du Dr. Fanton from "Vitamine" restaurant, which Rick has recommended (but the original owners, Pierre and Benedict, sold it this year to younger Parisienne couple, Alain and Sylvie, who are maintaining the menu and have the same folks in the kitchen, but plan gradual changes. Try a salade on the menu which I invented and named the "Ponza.").
Marijtje, a usually charming Dutch woman, runs Soleileis with her French husband Folco (the shop's name combines "sun" in French with "ice cream" in Dutch); she's the one normally on duty and speaks fluent English as well as French and Dutch. They make everything from scratch, including the cones, with no additives or colorings. They grow or pick the fresh fruits themselves, ripe so as to pemit using less sugar. All 24 flavors are marvelous and certainly among the best I've tasted anywhere. Personal favorites include Cannelle (cinnamon), Reine Claude (a small, green plum, something like a myrabelle), Cerise (cherry), Amande (almond), Citron (lemon), Prune Sauvage (wild plum) and Gingenbre (not sure I spelled it right, but it's ginger). The most unusual, mentioned before, is Fadoli, made with olive oil, honey and nougat, almost unique and perfectly Provencal.
Just around the corner from both Soleileis and Vitamine, at 2 rue du Dr. Fanton, is a new restaurant, "TOAST, VIN & Cie" (Toast, Wine and Co.), dedicated to "la cuisine sur la tartine," various meats, fish or vegetables grilled on Poilane country toast. It's delicious! Owners Thierry and Bernadette, who live above the restaurant, have created a warm home-like atmosphere and like to stay open late. TV&Cie is already adopted by the locals. The desserts are also excellent, but I want to mention one in particular because it hasn't been available in Arles for a time: glace de lavande (lavender ice cream). Soleileis doesn't have it; Vitamine used to but hasn't for years.The TV&Cie variety is even better than the one I remember turning people on to at Vitamine, a taste fantasy.
Also try another new restaurant, Chez Gigi. If TV&Cie's atmosphere is warm, Chez Gigi's is hot. The French Canadien owners (yes, one is Gigi) say they want to have the best restaurant in Arles. Well, I'm not sure they're there right out of the gate, but the food is good and the vibe infectious. You roll dice before eating to win your meal on the house. This place goes late into the night too. It's just off the Place du Forum on the rue des Arennes, about 50m from the other three.
Re: insistence by another writer to avoid eating anywhere on the Place du Forum, I'd like to amend that. "L'Estaminet," just off the Place down the alley next to the Hotel du Forum, has had its tables on the Place for years and now has opened a second site on the Place, selling fruit drinks and Haagen-Daas ice cream. Their wood-fire pizzas and other food is quite good. Lydie, mistress de l'Estaminet, makes a special pasta for me, using the pizza sauce, mushrooms and Roquefort cheese. I eat there almost weekly.
Why do I know so much about Arles? I'm a photographer and writer who's there every summer for an arts festival (27 years in a row), and now take an apartment there as a base from which to visit other festivals. It's practically a second home.
Bill <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA 08/27/00
In Colmar, try "LaPetite Venise" Wistub, 4 rue de la Possionnerle. The owner and chef previously worked at the wistub across the street. We found the food and wine wonderful with prices even more so.
K. McDaniel
Orlando, FL USA 08/13/00
I'll be making my sixth trip to Paris at the end of this month (once Paris is in your blood there is no other place to go) and I will make a beeline to a restaurant where I have eaten on every visit: "L'Argentier" at the corner of rues Cambon and Du Mt Thabor (one block north of Rue de Rivoli and rue Cambon). The staff are extremely friendly; English is spoken (the Madame in charge is fluent in everything); and the food is exquisite and relatively inexpensive. A better place is tough to find. I have eaten elsewhere in Paris, but L'Argentier has my heart and stomach.
Hans C. Hargens <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA 08/07/00
We also loved Rick's recommended Cafe le Bosquet in the 7th. We stayed at the Hotel Eiffel Rive Gauche which is just around the corner. We ate there almost every night after we discovered that the food was so much better than in comparably priced places. We noticed that many other Americans were repeat customers as well. Try the daily specials; you can't go wrong even if you don't know exactly what you are ordering! The staff was wonderful and there were handshakes all around on the night we announced that we were leaving the next day. It was definitely our favorite place to eat.
Margie Chadburn <email>
Valencia, CA USA 07/27/00
I just returned from Paris. Be prepared for changeable weather - but the food remains as terrific as ever. I have not ever had a terrible meal in Paris (and that includes an "interesting" horsemeat steak hache'). This time our focus in Paris was the 6ieme arrondisment - purely by the chance that our apartment was there. Full of tourists of course, but you can find a way to avoid all of those.
I recommend a new restaurant called "Citrus" at 150 Bd du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris which serves absolutely the freshest ingredients (menu changes regularly) in the French way with a West Coast Californian accent. Beautiful surroundings (contemporary). New chef (it is his first restaurant), newly opened, host speaks English.
They are reviving a custom of wine by the glass and by marking the bottle - if a particular wine suits your fancy, you can request the bottle and they will charge you by how much you drink of it. You do not have to have the whole bottle! Plats are from about 80FFr to 120FFr. The antipasti entree for two was great. (So a 2 - 3 course meal can be about 120FFr to 200FFr not including wine) I recommend going before the crowd discovers it - it is only a matter of time.
For a picnic try get your food at La Grande Epicerie de Paris at Bon Marche' department store (bottom floor store number 1). Also a great place to scan for food gifts to bring home. Large, pleasant, not too crowded esp. before lunch.
For a special treat, there is a stall in the market (Tues?, Thurs, Sat) at the square 3-4 blocks east of Bd St-Michel on the Bd St. Germain which sells homemade foie gras, rillettes, rillettes de canard and (my favorite) rillettes aux foie gras. He offers samples to taste. Bon appetit.
nwlem <email>
Richmond, CA USA 07/21/00
The most wonderful and completely unexpected place we ate at during our two weeks in Europe was Tex Mex Azura, a tiny restaurant in Narbonne, France. While waiting to board our next train, we decided to grab a bite to eat. One of the few places open was this very small Tex Mex pizzeria located on the upper level of stores directly across the street from the train station.
French Tex Mex?! As it turns out, this was the best meal we had on our trip. The menu had a great variety of dishes, all for exceptionally reasonable prices. The extremely good-humored and friendly young owner also served as host, waiter, and chef! After helping us with our luggage, seating us, and taking our orders, he went back to the kitchen and made our meals from scratch! The food was unbelievable.
We had such a good time, we sat around and chatted with him for nearly an hour after we finished (we were the only ones in the restaurant). As we were leaving, the owner even gave my father a little French cookbook as a gift. I highly recommend this quaint little restaurant to anyone stopping in Narbonne. I guarantee you a wonderful meal.
Stacey <email>
Oak Brook, IL USA 07/11/00
Rick doesn't say much about the city of Tours in the France guidebook and while we found it centrally located and convenient for visiting the chateaux, finding an open restaurant on a Sunday evening was a chore. Luckily, we stumbled into LaGrange Creperie at 22 rue Lavoisier where we thoroughly enjoyed the dinner and dessert crepes as well as the charming personalities and humor of husband and wife owners Marie-Jose and Olivier. Reasonably priced and highly recommended!
Ron & Leigh Paris <email>
Santa Rosa, CA USA 07/09/00
To Susan Rebillot (below): La Mosquee (French for Mosque) is indeed the main Paris mosque. There are several mosques in Paris, which has a huge Muslim population (mostly North and West African) but this large mosque by the Jardin des Plantes is an important architectural site, a copy of a Moroccan mosque, and has a hammam (Turkish bath) as well as a lovely tea room. The hammam is very reasonably priced, as ritual cleanliness is very important in the Muslim (as in the Jewish) religion. There are alternating days for men and women, so no, the baths aren't co-ed, it is a mosque after all!
If you like North African food, there are many neighbourhoods where you can find it in Paris, with many restaurants and boutiques of the Arab and Sephardic Jewish communities. Paris is a very cosmopolitan place.
Maria Gatti <email>
Montreal, Quebec - Canada 07/09/00
We just returned from 2 weeks in Paris and want to share some of our favorite cuisine experiences. We returned often to Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter for picnic food. We fell in love with St. Marcellin cheese and an incredible aged Gouda as well as different kinds of pate. We sampled some of the best fresh fruit of our lives — incredible apricots, cherries, nectarines.
Near the entrance to Les Jardins des Plantes, we came upon what appeared to be a mosque. It was La Mosquee, an exotic restaurant and tea salon, with a very lively crowd sipping delicious, very hot mint tea served in small, slender decorated glasses.
In Montparnasse, we found a recommendation on our handy laminated map of Paris for Les Chateaux Poivres, 145 rue du Chateaux, Metro stop Pernety. What a find — no tourists here, just great bistro food, very good service, and elegant ambience. Excellent escargot, fresh trout, terrine de canard and grilled leg of lamb. 89F, about 15.00 each for an excellent quality 3-course meal for each of us.
We greatly enjoyed an elegant lunch in the cafe/tea salon of the Jacquesmart-Andre Musee — if you have plenty of time in Paris, add this beautiful small museum to your museum list — it has Italian Renaissance art, some fine Van Dykes, an excellent audioguide included in the admission price.
One should try food of varying ethnic origin while in Paris. We had a very delicious dinner at Chez Leon in the Bastille area not far from the Bastille monument and sampled tagines — spicy stews with meat and vegetables served with couscous and small dishes of cool but spicy vegetables on the side. Very good.
We had NO disappointing meals in Paris or on our day trips to Beaune and Amboise. Excellent beef burgundy, as you would expect, in Beaune at Les Gourmets, not far from the marketplace. And Parisienne cafe (coffee) and pastries are excellent everywhere, including the train stations! Definitely, try mussels in Paris — mine at Capucines were small and sweet and very delicious. Ah, Paris — bon appetit!
Susan Rebillot <email>
St. Petersburg, Fl USA 07/04/00
My husband and I enjoyed The Creperie on rue Castex. Wonderful staff, and the crepes were delicious. It was not a huge meal, which was perfect for the hot weather (90s) that we had during our stay in Paris. If you are in the area, drop in!
MJM <email>
Danville, CA USA 07/02/00
Our favorite place to eat in Paris was Le Regent on Rue LaFayette (9e). Everything there was good, and very reasonably priced.
Kevin Kossowan <email>
Edmonton, CAN 06/30/00
Try a steak in France; they know how to cook it. Just half an inch thick, I requested medium; it came out perfect, tender and juicy. I had one with a roquefort cheese sauce over it and another with a bearnaise sauce on the side. I'm going to copy their technique the next time I cook a steak.
N. Shaw <email>
dallas, tx USA 06/30/00
Rick's recommendation of the Cafe le Bosquet in Paris, 46 Avenue Bosquet, as having the nicest owner in Paris was on the mark. We dined there with our two children and were warmly welcomed. The food was good and reasonable. It's my son's (age 9) top restaurant due mainly to the friendly staff.
Brent Kato <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 06/29/00
For the best ice cream in the world — and I'm not exaggerating! — go to "Soleïleïs" in Arles, France. It's a small shop, in a street off the Place du Forum (where the famous Café Van Gogh is), the rue du Dr Fanton. Their sorbets and ice cream are just great, homemade and with only natural ingredients. They do everything themselves, even pick some of the fruit they use for the sorbets. Some flavors are really interesting - one is ice cream containing olive oil - very good! The service is friendly, and they are always willing to tell you everything about how they make the ice cream. This is a new business, so I don't think Rick Steves knows about it yet. Definetely worth a try!
LANGENDIJK, Floor <email>
AMSTERDAM, Holland 06/20/00
My wife and I just returned from Paris. We agree with those who recommended Chez Agnes. The proprietor was delighted at the comments on the Graffiti Wall as translated by an interesting young French couple. Rick is due for a free meal for all the great press. Watch out for the aperitifs, you'll be seeing deux Eiffel Towers.
Also had one of our best meals at Le Maquis on the backside of Montmartre, 69 rue Caulaincourt. Outrageous food and gracious service tolerating our poor French.
Paul <email>
Boston, MA USA 06/19/00
I was having lunch in Le Fumoir restaurant across from the Louvre in Paris. My high-school French had served me well in decoding menus up until them but the menu in this restaurant surpassed my handle of the language - I did not know what any of the entrees were. Not wanting to be an annoying mono-lingual tourist and ask for an explanation of the menu, I threw my confidence in the judgement of the Chef and pointed confidently (and blindly) at one of the entrees when the waitress came to take the order. She noted my choice and said, "AAAH...zee raih feesh." I thought, "Oh no, I've just ordered raw fish...yuk!" But, I stuck by my choice, again trusting the chef. "If he thinks it fit to serve in this fine restaurant, I will undoubtedly enjoy it." I was surprised and pleased when the meal came and my fish was in fact cooked. And it was delicious. I asked the waitress for a clarification on what she had said earlier. It was "ray" fish — a fillet of ray — an unusual delicacy for me since I live 1,000 miles from the nearest salt water.
<email>
Canada 06/10/00
Don't dine in the Eiffel Tower, instead dine where you can see it, atop La Tour Montparnasse. The restaurant there - on the 56th floor - has nice food, much better than it has to be, it is not killer expesive, and every table has a view of the Eiffel Tower at night. Also before or after the meal you can go up on the roof of the building to see the view in all directions. For the rest of this year, the Eiffel Tower sparkles for 5 minutes every hour on the hour in the evening. It is truly enchanting... As the ETBD guide points out, the best view of Paris is from the Tour Montparnasse, because from there you cannot see the Tour Montparnasse!
Bob L
Derby, UK 06/06/00
We just returned from three weeks in France. Paris was wonderful. A restaurant that had been highly recommended on this page was our first night's meal: le Champ du Mars on Avenue Motte Piquot was, as many wrote, excellent. The service was wonderful and the food, delicious. Also, through Graffiti Wall recommendation we ate at Le Bistro du 7eme on Avenue Latour Maubourg. Very good food although extremely crowded with long wait time if you have not made a reservation.
While in Paris, be sure to go on a dinner cruise on the Seine. We chose the Bateau Parisien. The menu choices were excellent and the food was delicious. It was a beautiful experience to dine and see the lights of Paris at the same time, especially the Eiffel Tower which was lit up and sparkling in all its glory. Magnifique!
Just outside of Beaune, we ate at Relais de la Diligence in Meursault, another Rick Steves/Graffiti Wall recommendation. The 98f prix fixe menu was out of this world.
You cannot go wrong chosing the Menu of the Day in most restaurants. They give you a nice variety at a reasonable price.
Thanks to all who wrote their comments and restaurant recommendations on this page. It helped us make decisions as to where we would eat before we left for our trip.
Kathleen Smith <email>
Teaneck, NJ USA 06/05/00
I am French...and my best advice is to go taste some "moules" (mussels), "foie gras," and really French cheese with a lot of good Pommard, and then realize that France is really the best country in the world!
Emanuelle <email>
Suwanee, GA USA 05/30/00
Returned from 2 weeks in France where my favorite and most memorable meals were picnics on the balcony of our hotel in Paris with fresh bread, cheese, prosciutto and wine purchased at the small shops in the Marais neighborhood. Not only was the food inexpensive and delicious, but with a view of the towers of Notre Dame over the Rue de Rivoli, there was no better table in the city!
Christine
Acton, MA USA 05/30/00
I didn't find the restaurants any great deal, however I fell for my daily croissant.
Rick was right about not wasting money on the daily hotel breakfast (ours was 40FF and ample). Then I headed for the nearest Metro and the sights I wanted to see. I did learn that in Paris a cup of coffee at the bar is about 6ff, at the tables about 15ff, and outside with the view about 25ff. So I enjoyed many a cup at the bar with the locals.
Overall I enjoyed a huge variety of meals and prices in Paris. I particularly enjoyed seafood in a restaurant near the Gare L'est. When I first arrived I got to know the local merchant who was really good at recommending wine and places to eat nearby.
Georgia Miller <email>
Chattanooga, TN USA 05/27/00
My wife and I are frequent visitors to Paris and while we love the Rue Cler area, we have never stayed in any if the hotels there. Can anyone compare the Hotel du Champ de Mars and the Leveque and tell us your preference and maybe your reasons.
Marv <email>
San Diego, CA USA 05/23/00
Just wanted to tell E Reyes that the waiter teasingly called coke the American champagne not because you didn't order wine - there are lots of people in France who don't drink - but because a French teetotaller would have ordered mineral water with his meal. - To French people, and many other Europeans, the idea of consuming sweet beverages with a meal is absolutely disgusting.
Maria Gatti <email>
Montréal, Québec - Canada 05/20/00
We just returned, here is the rundown on where we ate and why we liked it. This may be of use to some of you.
Avignon - The first night we ate in one of the sqaure cafes near our hotel (Hotel Blauvac). Normally we avoid these tourist traps, but we ate here the first night of our honeymoon to France and had to do it for old time sake. Avignon - Cafe Epicerie. A Rick suggestion and well worth it. A small out of the way cafe truly frequented by locals. Don't worry about the language barrier; we were served by a wonderful young lady name Jenny from England who explained all of the unknowns. (In the south of France, many of the servers and hotel workers are from other parts of Europe). Avignon - Located the Halles market east of the Rue Republique. They are only open during the day, but it beats any take out or supermarket for fresh to go food. Note: There is a supermarket with good prices on the Rue Republique in the basement next door to McDonalds.
Arles - The best place to eat on our trip with a few, notable exceptions. Next to our hotels (Hotel Calendal) were two restaurants. Criquet is recommened by Rick but we never ate there. Regardless it is suggested by locals. Next to Criquet is the Avendou (sp?). We ate there twice. Wonderful food. We knew it was good because a taxi driver recommended it and it was full of average locals. Be warned, they speak very little english but do speak the universal language, food, very well. Try the moulles, soup d'poisson and boula baise. Out best find was next to the Hotel Arlatan in a small restaurant which used to be called the Constantine. It has a new name we never figured out, but everyone in town knows where the Constantine is so it is easy to find. We ate there on a Sunday night and were served by the young owner. The calamari and other fish dishes are unbelievable. I cannot stress how good this place is, please visit it. Again, be warned, the owner speaks very little English, and his French has a strong Provencial accent making communication hard. Don't worry, he never quit smiling and trying to make us happy. Ricks Arles' "spluge", the Oliver. It has become an overpriced, haute cusine resturant with tuxedoed waiters. The place was stuffy, service horrible and the food less than expected. Half of the customers, both foreign and French, had to get up simultaneously and demand the manager bring us our checks. Once home, I nearly got sick. Also, avoid the Place du Forum cafe's. The food is overpriced and not worth the price. Rick's suggestion of a 45FF salad is the cheapest food on the menu and not truly indicative of the local cusine. Eat elsewhere in Arles and have coffee or a glass of wine in the square afterwards. You will be glad you did.
In Paris we avoid eating in the street cafe's, brasseries and bistrots. Most of them are tourist ripoffs and the food is not that good. Taking advantage of the size and diversity of Paris' population, we try to frequent ethnic resturants not available where we live. When was the last time you ate in a Tibetian, Tunesian or El Halal Chinese resturant? Bon Apetit!
Johnny <email>
Fort Worth, TX USA 05/19/00
In Normandy, look for Kir Imperial as a before-dinner drink - champagne with black currant liquor added. Nice and bubbly, rosy pink, a great start to dinner. Also had it in Paris, probably available elsewhere. In Paris, early May, had a blast watching all the Americans coming into Cafe du Marche each night to eat dinner carrying their Rick Steves books. They always seemed surprised to find that other Americans there, but after all, Rick pointed us there. My wife and I were eating there before Rick added it to guide book. We usually ate dinner with wine for about 200 FF. Good food at a super price.
Keith <email>
Lawrence, KS USA 05/18/00
We ate at several of your recommendations while we were in Paris. The Cafe' du Marche was great and very reasonable. The Boulangerie Patisserie had great croissants. The Cafe' Le Nemours was nice and relaxing. The Cafe' du Metropolitan in the place des Vosges has great desserts, but the hot chocolate is expensive.
Don't want to pay the expensive dinner cruise prices? Eat while docked on the river at Maxim's Guinguette while tied at dock. Even the beef was good. (Port de Suffren, near Eiffel tower and all the other dinner cruises, tel. 01 45 55 45 57)
Michelle Rose <rose-waz@bellsouth.net>
Cary, NC USA 05/15/00
Calling all oyster fans! The Normandy coast boasts the best Huitres (french for oysters) and they are right. Every place we went throughout Normandy had the best raw oysters my husband and I ever tasted. They actually tasted as if they had captured the essence of the ocean. Since I've been back home, I've visited New England and New Orleans, but no oysters found there can compare to the ones in Normandie. If you like raw oysters, you must try them!
Kate Mac <cog602@aol.com>
Phoenix, az USA 05/14/00
We just returned from a trip to Paris and also ejoyed Cafe du Marche in the Rue Cler neighborhood. A little loud, smoky, but filled with locals. The food was very good and reasonable. We also enjoyed the casual atmosphere because we didn't feel out of place in our casual touring clothes.
jennifer
Oh USA 05/11/00
We just returned from two weeks in France, and had the best food in the Burgundy region. You can't beat Oeufs en Meurette, a warm appetizer featuring eggs poached in a red wine concoction served on small pieces of toast, covered with a light, beefy sauce containing pearl onions and button mushrooms. (Don't forget to mop up the leftover sauce with your bread!) Divine! I bought a recipe book so I can make it at home!
On the other hand, I prefer protein for breakfast instead of breads and rolls, so I virtually starved to death in the mornings. Thank goodness for those 4- and 5-course dinners at night!
Heidi Pool <heidipool@aol.com>
Morgan Hill, CA USA 05/09/00
Good food in France is expected. We found a place in Le Petit Andelys that added charm, service and price. We had just visited Monet's Garden in Giverney and were looking for a place to have lunch. By the time the six of us got to Andelys it was 3:00 pm and many restaurants were closed, one even turned us away. We walked into the Au Sambovar and asked if they were open. Actually they were closed but the owner invited us in (all six of us) and said he would cook us a lunch. He made us this great chicken, with potatoes and vegetables, served with great wine. He also included pate as an appetizer. It was one of the best meals and we had the whole restaurant to ourselves. We will go back!!! 5 rue Grande 27700, Le Petit Andelys. Tel 02 32 54 65 28
Terry Christopherson <tlchris@tlcseminars.com>
Edmonds, WA USA 05/06/00
My husband and I just returned from France for our first anniversary — my third time in France and his first. We stayed and toured with my long-time Parisian friend. It was interesting to find many Parisians don't go anywhere without their numerous restaurant guides — ratings and food awards are very important when selecting a restaurant. Our favorite eats included:
(1) Ladure "macarons" (type of sinful cookie) on the Champs Elysee. Look for it (on the left) when you're doing the walk up towards the Arc de Triomphe. It's a fancy, high-end patisserie that's considered a luxurious indulgence by Parisians. MMMM!
(2) Berthillon ice cream. Honey nougat and wild strawberry flavors were exquisite!
(3) Felafel from the busy little place in the Villejuif area with the sign "felafel preferred by Lenny Kravitz".
(4) Creperies — I love both the dinner gauffres (made with buckwheat flour) and dessert crepes (wheat flour).
(5) In Normandy, we ate repeatedly at the Tivoli Bistro in Trouville, a small, high quality bistro with an excellent menu and super-friendly staff.
I am always overwhelmed by the number of delicious things I can eat when in France. So much to enjoy and never enough room for expansion in my jeans!
Tara <tara_bock@hotmail.com>
Jacksonville, FL USA 05/05/00
In paris we tryed the Soufflot cafe on 16 rue soufflot. It is very good. We ate breakfast there everyday, and dinner was excellent. The waiter made our first day there wonderful.
USA 05/01/00
Great restaurant experience in Colmar: Restaurant Garbo (near Rick's recommended Hotel le Rapp I believe.) They have a prix fixe meal called Chef Carte Blanche, meaning the chef decides what to serve you. We received a four-course gourmet meal specializing in regional ingredients, plus a different variety of wine with every course, for a total of 290 FF per person (total for two of us came to $85!) It was great fun anticipating the next surprise course, and each dish we swore was the best we ever had. They even slipped in a cheese course, which we did not expect. Very highly recommended.
Nick Berents
Norwalk, CT USA 04/28/00
One of the most lovely rooms I've ever seen was at La Fermette Marbeuf, 5, rue Marbeuf in the 8th arr. Run by Les Freres Blanc, it has Art Deco stained-glass walls, soft glowing magical colors, delicious food. Pricey. Dinner took three hours — we had a French couple with us who made it all go comfortably. The "rude" waiter teased us because we wouldn't order wine. When we asked for Coke, he said, "Ahh, ze American champagne!" The story goes that they found this beautiful stained glass room by accident during renovation of a cafe in the 70's and moved a similar conservatory to the site later. I wonder if it was walled up to hide it during the Occupation? I'd love to know.
E. Reyes <elisreyes@geocities.com>
Newark, CA USA 04/26/00
For a great meal in a pleasant non-threatening atmosphere in Montmatre, try Le Durer at 25 Rue Yvonne de la Tec in the 18th. The street is on your left as you exit the Metro #12 at Abbesses. Three prix fixe menus at 89, 120 and 180 ff. The owners, Claude & Jeanine, are the waiters/chefs and although neither speaks English very well they are friendly smiling people who go out of their way to provide excellent service. The atmosphere is cozy and comfortable, the food fantastic and the location easy to reach. Definitely worth a try if you're on your way to the Sacre Coer or Place du Tetre. We ate there three of the six nights we were in Paris (the apartment we rented was across the street) and we were never disappointed.
Patrick Cotter <cotterp@mwhse.com>
Rumson, NJ USA 04/21/00
Just returned from my second trip to Paris - last one was 6 years ago. Much better memories this time, because I always remembered to say bonjour, s'il vous plait and bonne journee!! Saw no rudeness or impatience this trip. We carried Rick's book, even into restaurants, and can't tell you the number of people who said "Aren't Rick's books great!" Have to recommend Leo le Lion restaurant in Rue Cler neighbourhood; it was our last meal in Paris, and fabulous! Had to call 8 hotels, one month ahead, to find reservations for early April. Mars Hotel was super.
Barbara Partazana <bpartazana@healthplan.com>
Tampa, FL USA 04/20/00
We just returned from a trip to Paris, and our favorite restaurant (and hostess!) was found at Chez Agnes Restaurant, 1 bis, rue Augereau, 75007 Paris. It's a very small restaurant close to the Eiffel Tower and Ecole Militaire. It's wise to get reservations because the restaurant is very small, but the food is some of the best we had in Paris! Late one evening we wandered into the restaurant and spent one hour there talking and laughing with four French men who had finished their meals. One man was sleeping (the French men said he ALWAYS sleeps), and Agnes held up a plastic rooster to his ear. It never woke up the man, but we had a good laugh. Madame Agnes is very gracious and has a wonderful sense of humor, although she does not speak much English. She asked that our party give her some money to hold our spot at the restaurant, and she applied the money to our meal when we arrived. (Because it's such a small place, she needs to make sure that those who have reserved a table will show up!) Her dog Gypsy was a highlight as well. We hope you have the opportunity to visit this restaurant!
Chris & Tyann Rouw
Cedar Falls, IA USA 04/15/00
My sister and I were in Paris April 2-5 and had the best time. We had the best food at La Robet le Palais just down the block from our hotel, Hotel Violet. I had the "Janet de porc braise a la sauge et moisettes" and it was fabulous. The hotel is centrally located in walking distance of Notre Dame, the Louvre and Rue Rivioli. We had a great time at a greek restaurant with live music and dancing just across the Seine from the hotel our first night there.
My recommendation - forget reservations and bravely try what you come across as you see the sights. We didn't have a bad meal or go hungry the whole time we were there. Hotel violet is at 7,rue Jean Lantier, 75001, Paris, phone 42.33.45.38 in the Chatelet area and near the Musical theater there.
Terese <brnwig@aol.com>
Moorhead, MN USA 04/14/00
We were in Paris last year on my first trip to Europe. We called to make a reservation at Le Train Bleu (get the Steak Tartare). The man I spoke to spoke no English and my French is very basic. I managed to get out the number of persons and the time we needed a reservation. When I tried to spell our last name (which is Boyd) he somehow got Bond out of it and immediately in a British accent said "Bond, James Bond!" So when we arrived we were Mr. and Mrs. James Bond at 9pm. I discovered through this and numerous other experiences in Paris that the most important thing I brought with me was a sense of humor. We had a ball pantomiming, using bad French, and facial expressions to communicate with everyone we met, including grumpy ticket takers and a tourist from Greece. So, don't take things too seriously and forget about conjugating verbs, concentrate on making them laugh.
Lori <theboydhouse@msn.com>
Dallas , TX USA 04/13/00
Any place that advertises "all the lights of Paris" and includes both the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe will render everything pretty tiny in your photo. Paris is compact, but it's not that compact! That said, the panoramic view that includes the monuments is to be found at the observatory in the Tour Montparnasse (40FF entrance fee). It's cheesy in an Empire State Building way, but it will give you a great perspective on the city and its size. Bring binoculars.
K
NY, NY USA 04/10/00
If you're on the Champs-Elysee at night and get hungry, go to Cafe di Roma. It's right across from the Virgin Megastore. Slightly pricey, but great food and ambiance! In the Rue Cler area, we loved Cafe du Marche. Their plat du jour (plate of the day) was fantastic! Super fresh romaine lettuce with a boiled egg, beets, carrots, asparagus-a total yum. Their mashed potatoes are great too.
Palm Spings, CA USA 03/31/00
My wife and I visited Paris a few years ago and found a perfectly charming restaurant that is located nrear the Louvre. The restaurant is called L' Ami 'Leon and is at 11 Rue j.j. Ruesseau. We were greeted by a charming woman who gave us a food dictionary so we would know what we were ordering. We were seated at a table where we could see the chef at work in the kitchen. The chef came out and visited each table to ask about the food he had prepared. The food was very good and not too expensive. I have been to Paris on business twice since that trip (it was hard work, but someone had to do it), but I did not have the heart to eat at this restaurant. It was special being there with my wife and I would have felt guilty being there when she was back home.
Jim Bronson <jwbronson@netscape.net>
Nashua, NH USA 03/30/00
In the tiny town of Brugge, Belgium, we ate both nights at the most wonderful restaurant of our two-month stay in Europe: de Bottelier. It has a wonderful seafood soup/stew, excellent meats, and delicious homemade sorbets. The address is Sint-Jakobsstraat-8000. You will love it!
Leigh Hutchison <lrh9151@garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Tallahassee, FL USA 03/29/00
McDonald's in France has Salmon Salads.
Paula Carlisle <markcarlisle@earthlink.net>
Flower Mound, TX USA 03/13/00
We found the most unusual restaurant in Paris just about 3 blocks from the Arc de Triumph. It was a cheese shop with a restaurant that served everything with cheese: Le Village de Paris, at 24, rue Saint Blaise. You could have a complete 8 course meal of just cheeses. We went for one of the other four choices. They had over 100 cheeses. Appetizer: fried cheese and a cheese ravioli. Fish course was salmon with a delicate cheese sauce and a white fish with a dark cheese sauce. Phyllo wrapped chicken (Quine?)stuffed with cheese. Then the cheese course. Your choice of any and as many cheeses and you wished to sample. (I couldn't eat blue cheese in France — too strong.) Then dessert: goat's milk ice cream and something between tapioca and yogurt with fresh fruit.
Paula Carlisle <markcarlisle>
Flower Mound, TX USA 03/13/00
I went to Paris with my family in November 99. It was not easy finding meals to satisfy us as we do not eat meat. After loads of egg and cheese sandwiches and ethnic food, I was happy to return home. On top of that we don't drink. Talk about hungry! We saw most of the sights and those were exciting. Our trip was pleasant in spite of our growling stomachs.
<caxycat>
USA 03/12/00
I just returned from my second trip to Paris. My recommendations for phenominal food are: Les Olivades, Au Bon Acqueil, and Aux Fins Gourmets. All three had wonderful service, excellent food, and great waiters, who recommended some tasty wines to accompany the meals. I also went to Chez Clement (near the opera) for lunch one day...was the only non-Parisian there, and had a fabulous meal. Enjoy Paris in the off season, folks!
Melissa <toothygrin@sprintmail.com>
Lake Oswego, OR USA 03/11/00
Just back from my first trip to Paris. Went to Le Cordon Bleu and loved it. My 14 year old son has posted my journal and a few photos at http://minimn.home.mindspring.com Click on the tour Eiffel for a quick trip to France!
Peg Parrish <minimn@aol.com>
Alpharetta, Ga USA 03/11/00
We had a great trip to Paris in mid-February. We had an eye out for the Rude French, and were prepared to disarm them with good-faith attempts at speaking French, etc. The good news is we just didn't find 'em for virtually the entire trip. Very nice and helpful people just about everywhere, especially if you made the effort to be polite and speak what French you could.
We found a small brasserie across the Seine from Notre Dame (Left Bank). A big red awning marks the spot for (I believe) the Petit Pointe. Good, basic food for reasonable prices with superb chocolate mousse for dessert. Also, VERY nice and friendly waiter. Great experience all around.
Rue Cler was also as advertised for cheese, fruit, breads and pastries. Very nice for a picnic.
We ultimately found the Rude French on our last night there,on the Champs Elysees - little place called The Elysees Brebant. Wow. Talk about rude. The waiters were fawning all over two young French women having dinner - lighting cigarettes, etc - but couldn't be bothered to give us the time of day. When they did, it was gruff and unsmiling. Honestly, the rudeness here was right out of central casting. To make matters worse, while the food was decent, it wasn't as good as at other places and cost more.
[Editor's note: the Champs Elysees is a tourist magnet — Pat's experience is unfortunate but not surprising. For a cheaper, friendlier experience, head to neighborhoods where locals actually live and dine — the rue Cler, the Marais, the Ile St. Louis, the Contrescarpe.]
Pat <cbg96@aol.com>
Seattle, WA USA 03/06/00
Funny how the french can make even a hot dog a culinary delight. in Paris, try one from a corner bakery, crepe stand, or sandwich counter: half a fresh baguette, the "sausage," melted gruyere-type cheese. yum. Ditto: Vive le hotdog francais!! That is one of the first things my husband and I devour when we arrive the streets of Paris! We like them with spikey Dijon and a 1664 beer. We try to make them in the states but it is just not the same.
Kelly Stark-Vaughan <kstark@worldnet.att.net>
Chicago, il USA 03/03/00
ESCARGOT LOVERS NOTE! Deep in the heart of the 15th arrondisement in Paris is a little cafe...more accurately called a "Gustation" because they only serve one thing, ESCARGOT. The Restaurant is small but very nicely decorated and I recommend it for a small luncheon. Often there is no one there and the door is locked. That is really the most fun time to go. Why? Because across the street is the small store where they stuff the snails with different sauces and where you pick out your dozen snails freshly stuffed and according to the size you prefer. The lovely lady then places your snails in a basket, escorts acoss the small side street, seats you at a table with an electric snail "cooker", offers you wine with their own label (the white is quite good), and leaves you to watch your snails cook while she goes down the street to pick up a loaf of bread for your "dunking" pleasure. Then she leaves you alone to go back and stuff more snails. When you are finished and ready to pay, you simply call her via a little pager left at your table. I use this as my first meal in Paris evey time I visit. If you like Escargot, love a real out-of-the-way French experience you must not miss this treat. It is LA MAISON de L'ESCARGOT 79 Rue Fondary Open Tu-Sat: 8:30am-8:00pm
Don <Rausch>
Las Vegas, NV USA 02/06/00
When it comes to eating well, you can't overlook the Dordogne Valley of France. Boy do they know how to eat and live well here! This is the home of foie gras, confit de canard, truffles and just about anything else which is heavenly to eat. I stayed in Perigueux, Sarlat, and Beynac, and was constantly amazed at how good everything was! It is impossible to have less than a seven or eight course meal, and they are much cheaper and better here than in Paris (as Rick says in his France book). In Beynac, try the Hotel du Chateau — you won't forget the location, and you won't forget the meals in the hotel's dining room...
Chris Moser <chris.moser@frasermilner.com>
Calgary, Canada 02/02/00
We were in Paris over the weekend with another couple and on the last evening we were simply too tired to walk far for dinner. We went to a small restaurant adjacent to the hotel where we were staying. The name of the establishment was "Chez Agnes" and Madame Agnes was the chef, waitress and bus person. The food was outstanding and the prices we paid were the least of any dinner we ate in Paris. An added treat was her poodle "Gypsy" who wandered freely about the 6 or 7 tables in search of a handout. Madame Agnes was gracious and fun and even gave us some cognac gratis at the end of our meal. She's located at: 1 Bis, Rue Augereau - 75007 Paris, not far from the Eiffel Tower and Ecole Militaire. Her # is 01 45 51 06 04. We HIGHLY recommend her and hope you might have the chance to try out her culinary skills. Bon appetit!
Blake & Deborah Scott <Lysdxic@aol.com>
Lynchburg, VA USA 02/01/00
i moved to the suburbs of paris (near versailles) almost 1 1/2 years ago from san francisco (a long story!). i actually don't eat out much (finances) but have a tip for to tourists on a budget. any kind of beverage will greatly increase your cost. you might want to get a (free) pitcher of water ('une carafe d'eau')at a meal. then, when you are tired from walking and need a break (or are thirsty), pay for a real beverage (coffee, mineral water) and get the right to a 'free' table for as long as you like! along the same lines, don't order a dessert at a meal (unless it's included) but have it as a 'tea' break in the afternoon. cheers!
lisa <wrldctzn@aol.com>
paris suburbs, france 01/30/00
We spent a week in Paris in Nov '99. One of our best meals was at a small restaurant called L'Alsaco. It featured food & wine of Alsace: sausages, sauerkraut, etc. Great food. Nice people. No tourists. Outside of the city center but right next to the Poissonniere subway stop. If you are going to try Alsatian food in Paris, go here.
Kathy B. <kfbinc@ibm.net>
Naperville, IL USA 01/22/00
So far the best food I've ever had in Europe has been in Paris. All of the vegetable and seafood was so fresh and beautifully prepared. And it actually helped to be on a budget. When I stayed within my budget and in my neighborhood, it was all terrific. I recommend quiche from the boulangerie (they're said to be licensed, with standards to meet), any creperie (try the veggie ones), and any fish you can get your hands on. I never thought I would top Italy, but Paris did it for me!
Betheny Winkler <scubawinks@msn.com>
Kingwood, tx USA 01/16/00
I don't want to sound like an ugly American, but we loved the Disney Paris versions of favorite American dishes. The cowboy meal complete with pain au chocolat was the best. Don't all cowboys eat croissants?!
Gary <grice@kings.k12.ca.us>
Hanford, CA USA 01/13/00
The caterers for the airlines were on strike when we flew home from Paris, so we weren't expecting much on the flight back. I still had the best food that I have ever had on an airplane! Vive la France!
deb
USA 01/05/00