Rick Steves' Europe: Food Lover's France: 2001

Food Lovers' France: 2001

Snails... horse meat... tongue... goose liver paté... stinky cheese.... Even people who like American fast food might enjoy Europe's top cuisine. Share your best treats in France.

soleileis
I check this page frequently, so when i went to visit Arles in the souht of France i went to taste the recommended home-made ice-cream at "Soleileis" at rue Fantom, wich you can reach from Place du Forum (very well-known place) I used to adore "Haegendaz"- and "Ben and Jerry"-ice-cream but it tastes like #$@%^&*??? since the delicious ice cream from Soleileis in Arles. Strictly homemade, place to rest, friendlyness, drink coffee/tea and inform yourself about Arles.
debbie
Paris, France 12/27/01

restaurants in Paris
By far, THE best dining experience we had recently in Paris was at "Auberge de la Reine Blanche" on the Ile St. Louis. A very small place - plenty of individual attention - the food was SUPERB! -My favorite was the La Salade Reine Blanche! - We also tried Chez Agnes and enjoyed it very much - Agnes and her dog were the perfect hosts! It seems that her customers are mainly American, and because of the events of 9-11, business seems to be way down for her. If you're in Paris, stop in and give her a chance - you'll enjoy the evening!
Debra <email>
Orem, UT USA 12/26/01

Paris brasserie
Chez Denise, 5, rue des Prouvaires 75001, near Les Halles (metro Louvre Rivoli) and St-Eustache Church — our totally favorite brasserie dining experience in mid-December 2001. We had lunch, which was huge in terms of portions! Must have reservations. ph 01.42.36.21.82. The French man sitting next to us said he had been dining there 30 years and hadn't changed a bit. Waiters were funny, harried, helpful — we felt very welcome. A little tricky to find , but with the little Paris Pratique Par Arrondissement (mapbook) a cinch!
Rhonda
Winston Salem, NC USA 12/25/01

Café Roussillon - Rue Cler neighborhood
We had a very nice dinner at the Café Roussillon in the Rue Cler neighborhood of Paris. Smoky, yes, but that's typical of a Parisian restaurant, n'est-ce pas? Great steak, nice crowd, nice waitress. We didn't have the bad experience that some others have mentioned here; it's worth a try.
Marty <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA 12/22/01

Look up Phillip at La Varanque
We went to Paris this November with ten days to prepare and learn everything we could about the city. WE had never been to Europe before. One big tool we used daily, was Rick Steves' Paris guide book. It was our best source of information and friend. We found a perfect place to eat La Varanque (27 rue Augereau) with Phillip the chef, server and guide to Paris. He guided us through his menu and then prepared the most delicious meals. Look him up in the Rue Cler area anytime after 6:00 PM. That is when he eats his dinner, but he is open to diners.
Sandy Kelly <email>
Barre, Vt USA 12/09/01

espresso
Sorry Hal, but 3 strikes, your out! I believe you have become accustomed to American coffee and your taste buds expect it. Give french coffee another chance — -the people who commented down below meant well, and are of course, RIGHT. I spend 3 weeks of the year in France and look forward to my daily coffee at the cafe. I only wish it would stay hot longer! Laurie
Laurie <email>
USA 12/07/01

Some of France's most famous food
Here are some of the dishes you should try in the following areas of France: Northwest: crepes and seafood in Brittany, duck with apples and cider in Normandy.
Northeast: Mussels and beer in Lille; goose, baeckhoff, and coq au riesling in Alsace; beef bourginone in Burgandy; chicken in champagne sauce, kir, and many types of mustard in Champagne.
East: Tripe, french onion soup, sour cream and onion, and quenelles in Lyon; fondue and hot wine in the Savoie.
Southeast: Salade nicoise in the cote d'azur; bouillabaisse in Marseille; daube, pastis, fougasse, and ratatouille in the rest of Provence; gratin in the lower Alps.
Southwest: Cassoulet near Toulouse; poulet basquaise in Basque country.
West and Center: I've never been, but I've been told about truffle specialties in Poitou, beef in Limousin, several dishes "a la Berry," and, of course, foie gras.
Mark Huntsman <email>
Madison, WI USA 12/07/01

Food in Provence
Aigo boulido in Orange is one of my favorite restaurants in France. Food in Orange can be as cheap as $10 for a four course meal, and much better quality than tourist towns like Avignon. On the waterfront in Marseille, the more you pay for Bouillabaisse, the better the quality (as a general rule; there are a few exceptions, most notably on some of the islands off the coast, where mediocre fare can cost $40 a bowl). Finally, daube is like meatloaf: everybody has a different recipe. Just because you like it or dislike it once has no bearing on the next time you try it.
Mark Huntsman <email>
Madison, via Aix-en-Provence, WI USA 12/07/01

Cafe Noir?
I think the guy who couldn't find a "good" espresso in Paris does not deserve to have a good time in Paris. First, all the coffee is the same price, including Deux Magots, so don't complain. I want to find out how I can re-create amazing Parisian expresso in my home. Is it the water?
Marie <email>
Washington, DC USA 12/03/01

Espresso in Paris
Sorry, but if your idea of good espresso is Starbuck's, you're not going to get it in Paris. I never had a bad cup of espresso in Paris, but then again, I have rarely had a good cup of espresso in America. Just think, Americans really don't drink espresso, the French drink tons of it. I trust the French with it.
Simon <email>
Boston, MA USA 12/02/01

Cherries in Liquor and other mouth burning desserts!
Just a word of advice. I was dining in a Corsican restaurant and ordered Cherries in liquor for dessert. I didn't realize that the liquor would be full proof liquor. I assumed that it would be syrup with a bit of liquor. Well, needless to say that my mouth was on fire. I had a few spoonfuls, but just couldn't handle any more. Be cautious when ordering items with liquor in it. Remember you are in Europe and alcohol is a different issue. I also had pear sherbet in liquor. Another mouth burner, but pretty good. Enjoy
Lori <email>
NJ USA 12/01/01

Vegetarian/Ethnic Dining
I was in Paris and the Riviera this past August. I am a vegetarian and found it somewhat difficult to eat in France. However, I don't need large meals every night. I found the soups, cheeses and breads to be delicious. I do recommend Apollon in the 7th Arrondissement. It's a wonderful Greek restaurant. The ambiance is superb and very romantic, especially when dining outside. The blue and white decorations reminded me of Santorini Island. Definitely don't miss this one. No need to worry about bumping into Americans, most of the people dining in Apollon were French. Apollon-24 Rue Jean Nicot- invalides- 01 45 55 68 47
Lori <email>
NJ USA 12/01/01

Real espresso in Paris?
All the brasseries of Paris claim to serve espresso, but during a three week stay I was not able to find one single place where the "espresso" did not taste like bad drip coffee. This even holds for famous expensive places like Deux Magots and La Coupole! Could anybody please help me with the name and address of a place in Paris which serves decent espresso (with "decent" I mean: at least of average Starbuck's quality)? This is urgent (since I am going back in a few weeks)!!
Hal <email>
LA, CA USA 11/28/01

Food, the best in France
I happened to hit a Street Fair in Paris, the best thing I tasted my whole trip was a snail with pesto on top. I only had one since it was a sample and I couldn't heat them up at my hotel. YUMMMMMMMMMM!
val <email>
boston, ma USA 11/25/01

Good eats in the Montmartre
The folks at Le Montagnard were so nice and let us in early for a drink so we could get out of the cold, and the waiters couldn't have been friendlier. The restaurant is cozy, too. But the food was disappointing. The recommendation for Le Duer on rue Yvonne something (just near the Abbesses Metro exit) was right on. Great food and a fun time. We also liked the place right next to our hotel (Hotel Roma Sacre Coeur - 101 Caulaincourt) called Gizzette's or something. It's just up the stairs and on your left after you exit the Lamark-Caulaincourt metro stop. Sorry for the vagueness of some details — I lost the paper I scribbled notes on ...! (Typical me.)
Liz <email>
Sacramento, CA USA 11/23/01

I agree with the good comments about Leo the Lion. The food was very good and the waiter was a hoot! They also took the time to explain the menu in English, which was very helpful because most dictionaries don't do a good job of including culinary terms. The place I was most disappointed with was Chez Agnes. Although Agnes is a delightful woman - very very nice - as well as her dog Gypsy, I (we) found the food to be subpar. My lambchop was barely edible (mostly fat and gristle) and the rest of the meal was just okay. It was by far the worst place we ate. I would not recommend going there.
Kirsten Roddy <email>
Chicago, IL USA 11/20/01

Leo the Lion
There was a somewhat negative comment on "Leo the Lion" in the Rue Cler area on one of your reader's comments. I ate there in September 2001 and the service was wonderful, the food great, and the price very reasonable. I think that the other reader may have misunderstood that you must have a reservation or else dine at your own peril. We went early and they found us a table despite the lack of a reservation and were quite friendly and helpful.
John <email>
Grundy, VA USA 11/12/01

eating in Southern France
My 20 year old daughter in school in Aix-en-Provence, led us to a Rick recommended restaurant in Nice, L'Authentic, which was wonderful. We got the menu of three courses for around 100 francs and everything the three of us got was great. My daughter had rabbit which she has enjoyed other times in France. She is eating four meals a week in a French home and I am amazed at what she is eating. I didn't realize that they didn't have much chicken but we were much more likely to see kangaroo than chicken. The salads were super, the specialty salad of Nice having several vegetables and tuna on top. Our favorite salad was in an outdoor restaurant just outside the casino in Monte Carlo made of corn, shrimp and tomatoes. We also had a wonderful asparagus soup there. The pastries in this area are to die for.
Kathy <email>
Hickman, KY USA 11/10/01

Crepe Stands and Cheese Course!
While in Paris this summer — my son absolutely loved the Crepe stands... for snack, breakfast or lunch! His favorite was the egg and cheese. Very inexpensive and delicious! We also fell in love with the French tradition of the Cheese Course — YUM... give me more 'stinky' cheese! We liked it so much we started doing it at home!
Shellee <email>
Rochester, NY USA 11/09/01

Taste buds
Best meal had in all of France was going over on Air France (courtesy of Sky Chefs of Dallas?Ft.. Worth!). But on Rue Clair the Cafe du Marche is a decent bet. Very popular w/ Parisians & travelers. The roast duck is great but uneven. If it comes to table with fat still showing send it back. Frank and Emannual are amusing personalities there. Catty corner is a boulangerie with the best baked goods in the cosmos, Denis mans it in the early morning?he has been up since 3 making the stuff. All the highly touted regional specialties of Provence disapointed. Cassoullet, the Languedocean white baked bean dish that would-be gourmets get dewey eyed over, is a terribly ordinary working stiffs meal, and almost any one can come up with 10 ways to improve it. It appears that the standard meal in all of France is steak and french fries. Best to follow the Michelin guide for good eateries if you want to take the considerable time to search them out. In my opinion a good US restaurant is as good as a French one and about the same price.
NJ Pinney <email>
Prescott, AZ USA 11/07/01

French Food
Breakfast at rue Cler - The tabac place right beside Hotel Leveque serves breakfast with a croissant, buttered half baguette with jam, grand cafe or café au lait, and orange juice for 35 FF. This is the place where most shopkeepers buy their coffee. And the boulangerie across the street near the hotel, at Rue de Grenelle, serves ham with two fried eggs, buttered half baguette with jam, grand cafe or café au lait, and orange juice, for 35FF.

Dinner - Eating at Leo di Leon was an experience. The new chef, Marey, is a young rising star. I tried his 98FF salmon dish “Raviole de saumon, moules et fondu depoire aux”– which had vegetables and mussels at the bottom, and they were good. The “cuisine de marche”, pheasant(“peadreu gris braise”), 183FF, my first time to eat this delicacy was very good too. The tarta tin – the French version of baked apple pie (“tarta tatin”), at 49FF, was flambayed before it was served. Marie later on goes around and talk with guests.

Pastries and deserts – We stumbled into this nice pastry and chocolate shop in St. Germain the Pres, while looking for the Marche. It’s called Gerard Mulot. Top class. They have a small nook where you can have a pastry and a beverage. It’s on 76 Rue de Seine. Another one near the Rue Cler neighborhood is a notch better than the ones on rue Cler. This is Jean Millet, a real coffee place with pastry shop. It’s on #103 St. Dominique, near the bus stop,. Try any of their pastries and sit down with a cup of coffee. They are “patissier, traiteur, chocolatier” rolled in one.
Sid Reyes <email>
San Francisco, Ca USA 10/29/01

eating in Paris
Rick recommends Café Roussillon on rue Cler — we just didn't like it. Waitress was very rude, sat all the Americans w. Rick's book together, it was noisy, smoky, and the food was mediocre. I know this is supposed to be a great place, but really, it can't compare to Le Bosquet, Café du Marché, Le P'tit Troquet, L'Auberge du Champs de Mars, and La Serre. Of all of them, La Serre was by far the best and most creative, very inexpensive and the "intense"owner, Phillipe, was as nice as could be. These are all restaurants in the rue Cler neighborhood. By the way, you writers are correct — everyone there is American or English — but it doesn't matter, it's still great!! Just don't go the the Rousillon.
marjorie <email>
longwood, FL United States 10/21/01

It's the cheese
Hey there - some hard cheeses have rinds you're *supposed* to cut off (like tomme and other aged cheeses). These have been rolled on the floor & aren't meant to be eaten with the rind on - I've made this mistake once too. Camembert, brie, other soft nonpasteurized cheese rinds all good to eat - and you're supposed to (it adds to the taste). And about the travelers who were told to 'go outside and look at the menu' (to see if they could afford it): how humiliating. I would've been outta there. Eat more cheese! = )
Tracy <email>
San Fran, CA USA 10/21/01

Restaurant experiences
My wife and I have just returned from a three week trip to France, from St. Jean de Luz on the Atlantic to Colliure on the Med. We had only one bad meal and many great ones. The highlights were in Bordeaux at 'splurge' restaurants: Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillic, which treated us to a nine-course dinner one night. It has two Michelin stars. Equal, but less expensive, is Hosteliere du Plaisance in St. Emilion and, finally, St. Julien, in St. Julien. There, the chef/owner is former chef at Jules Verne, atop the Tour Eiffel. For a super splurge, and once in your (at least our) lifetime, we had lunch at Guy Savoy in Paris, another two star food palace. It was truly the meal of a lifetime. Speaking of service and how well your are treated vs. the way you are dressed, we travel with back packs only but manage to include a dressy outfit (with shirt and tie for me) for such occasions. Even if wrinkled, it shows that you are serious about dining and we've always been treated with upmost courtesy. We are not youngsters, however. That could help. The whole French dining and eating experience was truly wonderful. Each time we visit, we discover something new, even some stinkier cheeses.
Ron
Orinda, CA USA 10/19/01

food in France
We just got back from 18 days in Spain, France and Italy. I had to write a comment about a restaurant Rick reccommended in Arles, France. It is called L'Olivier, he said he splurged whenever he went there. So we decided to do the same. We knew it was a nicer restaurant but as we walked in we were told to go back outside and check the menu — obviously to see if we could afford it. Then as we walked back in, we were asked if we had a reservation, no but luckily there was a table. Basically we did not have fancy dresses to wear to this restaurant so we were treated as low budget tourists. The menu was in French, the books helped a bit, but the waiter would not translate anything for us. The food was ok but having to deal with such a snobby wait staff I would not spend the money again and would not reccomend it unless you bring your fancy clothes to fit in.
Tanya Barnett <email>
seattle, wa USA 10/18/01

Food
Just came back from Paris. I second the post by Lee Schiller on L'As du Fallafel. It was what he said the best falafel sandwich in the world. The rest of the food at the restaurant was very good and very reasonably priced. The staff spoke good English. Highly recommended.
Pervez Anwer <email>
Plano, TX USA 10/18/01

Speaking of Stinky Cheese
On our European adventure my son and I were very eager to try local foods. At a Normandy B&B a huge breakfast was served in a room with a very unsettling smell. Well, it was once a barn... We made up a small plate of various slivers of cheese including one piece with the same smell, only stronger. I wouldn't go near it, but my son gamely popped it into his mouth. Needless to say it was all he could do to keep it and the rest of his meal down. It took 3 days to get over that one little bite and has left us with our most important travel lesson... DON'T DO THE STINKY CHEESE!!! P.S. If anyone has a clue what this cheese could be, let me know. Just morbid curiosity.
Cheryl <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA 10/17/01

Brasserie Ribe, Paris, France
We had an excellent meal & a good bottle of French wine at Brasserie Ribe, 15, avenue de Suffren, 75007 Paris (Rue Cler area) for very reasonable price. We ate at an outside table and heard good comments on the restaurant from other customers.
Joel Carlson <email>
Fox Island, WA USA 10/12/01

Great meal in Vence
We spent 12 days in France earlier this year and our most memorable meal was had at La Farigoule, 15 Av. Henri Isnard, in Vence. (about 15 minute ride north and to the west of Nice.) The service was wonderful, they were very patient translating the menu for us and the food was nothing short of outstanding. I wanted to kidnap the chef/owner!
Pam <email>
Cairo, Egypt 10/11/01

eating in Nice and Paris
If you stay at the Hotel St. Georges on avenue Clemenceau in Nice (or nearby) be sure to eat at Au Soleil, definitely the best value meal we had in France. And excellent food too; not gourmet but just flat our GOOD. Our waiter (maybe owner too?) was Alain. Speaks great English, has a nice sense of humor and is most helpful. A three course meal for two was $21.00 American when we got our VISA bill — includes wine too!! At the corner of Rue de Russie and Rue d'Italie. In Paris Leo le Lion is our favorite restaurant — they no longer have the huge family style first course as mentioned in the book but are now ala carte. For $35-40 American you can have a three course dinner with wine that is as good as we have anywhere here in Seattle which cost twice that price. They are in Rick's book — in the Rue Cler neighborhood.
Bob <email>
Seattle, Wa USA 10/09/01

Where to Snack at The Louvre
The 2nd floor coffee house at The Louvre is amazing in that you can savor the delicious Parisian pastry, sip a coffee, get a great view of the courtyard and its pyramid, look all the way down, past the Arc du Carousel, past the Tuilleries, and down the Champs Elysees all while people-watching the smart locals who know this is a much better place with more choices to refresh than the cafeteria near the entrance.
Tori <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/06/01

Lucas Carlton Paris
I was wondering if anyone has dined at Lucas Carton in Paris recently. A friend recommended it. I understand it is expensive but the food is great.. It will be my birthday dinner so I thought we could splurge. After reading this graffiti page I would also like to try Chez Anges .. it sounds wonderful! Any other suggestions? Thank you!
Doria <email>
Fairfield, CA USA 10/02/01

Leo the Lion
Unfortunately, Chez Agnes in Paris was closed. After the comments posted here I wanted to try the place. Fortunately, Leo the Lion was not closed — and we had one of the best meals of our two week trip. It is a small and cozy place with a friendly and attentive staff and food that is everything you hope for in a French restaurant.
Jay <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 09/24/01

Oops, forgot Contre-Allee's website: http://www.contre-allee.com/
Annie <email>
Princeton, NJ USA 09/24/01

Restaurant suggestions
I would have to agree with the poster who said that Cafe du Marche was just OK. My duck was overcooked and much of my salad was brown. However, I would recommend Contre Allee (14th arr.). It costs a little more than most of the places Rick recommends, but it's not outrageous. It's a comfortable place with good food, great Deco-style interior, and professional but friendly (English-speaking) staff who were patient with me and my beginner's French.
Annie <email>
Princeton, NJ USA 09/24/01

I Don't just go for the cheapo; I am so glad that Debbie posted her comments about Taillevant in Paris. I e-mailed her to get specifics. It was, as she said, a dinner of a lifetime. If you want the best food, the most attentive service, the most comfortable setting — this is it. Hurrah for this Rick Steves site — and hurrah that it need not be limited to el cheapo (Rick says he's not into the finer things in dining) but also to tastebud heaven.
Bonnie Bekken <email>
San Diego, CA USA 09/06/01

"Le Temps Perdu", 54 Rue de Seine, located in St. Germain des Pres, near the Odeon Metro station is a fabulous restaurant. Best meal that I had in all of Paris. Goat cheese salad, steak in roquefort sauce, the most amazing french fries, and creme brulee. And the wine...this one is not to be missed!
Beryl E. Mahl <email>
New Orleans, La USA 09/03/01

Musee Picasso has a cafe in the garden offering excellent sandwiches, deserts, and cappuchino. A pleasant way to rest and regroup. Cash, no credit cards. Musee Picasso in the Marais is one of my favorite museums. Picasso's art fills the entire space. Allow an entire day for this museum, gardens, and the Marais. There is also a great cafe, Le Sevigne on Rue Payenne across from a park. The cappacino and rhubarb tart are close to perfection. Laduree on the 75 Avenue Champs Elysees is the perfect place for brunch and people watching. Fouquet's, av. 99 des Champs-Elysees, has played host to luminaries such as James Joyce, Winston Churchill, and Frankin Roosevelt. Dinner here is a unique experience, especially if you can garner a sidewalk view table. Reserve one in advance. See the Eiffel tower, for the first time, at night, unforgettable.
helaine Rainier <email>
Toms River, NJ USA 09/03/01

If staying in Amboise, do not miss the opportunity to eat at THE SALAMADER, just before the bridge before entering the city. This was absolutely the best Pizza we had in France.
COS <email>
Hendersonville, TN USA 09/03/01

Hi, We have two Paris travelogues on our web site, the most recent is of a three-week trip in November. We're foodies so, as usual, there's a great deal of emphasis on our eating experiences as we search for good value, ethnic restaurants. Cheers! Don and Linda http://www.thetravelzine.com TheTravelzine.com is non-commercial
Don and Linda <email>
Canada 08/18/01

I will give a much more useful tip. Forget restaurant recommendations in American guidebooks, especially general guidebooks such as Rick Steves. Go with the true French restaurant guides, which are the Michelin Red Guides and Gault Millau guidebooks. These books have large professional staffs that do nothing but review French cuisine 365 days a year. American travel guidebook authors are not experienced with food in general and do not have time to keep up with the French restaurant scene.

Both Michelin and Gault Millau have sophisticated rating systems that let you know what you are getting. Michelin 1, 2, and 3 star restaurants are generally too expensive for everyday eating, but even a Michelin no-star mention is a guarantee of a very good meal at least. A Michelin rating of "good price/value" often is an excellent bargain. Gault Millau rates many restaurants, even bad ones, so you have to look at the exact rating and consider the review. The Michelin restaurant guidebook is totally searchable on the web — you can look up restaurants in cities you will visit and call from the states for reservations if you like. The Gault Millau guide should be searchable on the web but the search device seemed to be malfunctioning last I tried. Michelin is known for being more traditional in their cuisine selections, while Gault Millau favors more adventurous and fusion style cooking. (Bear in mind that "traditional" French cuisine can feel *very* adventurous to American palates without much experience in French style haute cuisine!). Michelin and Gault Millau reviewers eat in every single decent restaurant in France at least once every few years. Go with the pros!

One final tip: if cuisine is an important part of your trip stay out of major Northern cities like Paris (or even Lyon or Dijon) during mid-July to the end of August. Something like three quarters of good restaurants will be closed for vacation.
Marcus Stanley <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 08/17/01

Regarding restaurants in Bordeaux, my wife and I are returning to Bordeaux in September. There are two restaurants I'd mention. One, Hostellierie de Plaisance in St. Emilion (fax 05 577 44 111), is a wonderful restaurant and hotel. They have a website.

Another, in Pauillac, is Ch. Cordellian-Bages. It is a member of Relais et Chateaux and can be reached on their website. It is highly recommended and we have made reservations there, as well. Be sure to have the local oysters, served with grilled sausages and a bottle of white bordeaux, like Entres du Mers.
Ron <email>
Orinda, ca USA 08/04/01

Just wanted to recommend a book that my husband and I found invaluable when we visited Paris last summer. It is called 'Sandra Gustafson's Cheap Eats in Paris', and it recommends restaurants where you get good food, good service and good ambiance for a reasonable price. Cheap Eats isn't really about cheap FOOD, it's about getting a good bargain for your money. We used it to choose our lunch and dinner restaurants each day we were in Paris and were pleased with every choice. As with all guidebooks it pays to do some advance planning to make sure the restaurant is still open (since restaurants have notoriously high turnover) and do make reservations. We speak NO French and were apprehensive about using the phone to make reservations, so several times we had to wait for a half hour or so before we were seated. Next time we will be brave and make reservations.
Michele
Baltimore, MD USA 08/03/01

I just returned from Paris and based upon recommendations on this site I dined one evening at Chez Agnes. Agnes is a warm, jolly lady who does her best to make customers feel welcomed. However, for the benefit of people planning a visit to her restaurant and have gastric issues, they should be aware that Agnes has a heavy hand with spices and cooks with a lot of grease. As for the sanitation, well.....
Tom
Providence, RI USA 08/01/01

PARIS-LEO LE LION As others have stated, this is not the same place as in Steve's book. It has changed hands, the prices are higher, and the service is poor. Without a reservation on a Monday night in May, they were hestitant to seat us, even though there were several empty tables, which remained empty during our meal. They placed another diner next to us; we were so crowded that our elbows touched, even though those spacious, empty tables were there. We sat with the menu and without a beverage for 15 minutes. The food was good, the service was not.
Debra
Plymouth, MI USA 07/31/01

We are still on our trip, but I have to say that Chez Agnes is a wonderful experience. It is like eating in Grandma's house. Agnes is warm and kind and the food is great. Especially the cote d'agneau. It is a one woman operation so it can be a little slow, but who cares :). We are going back next week before we go home. BTW, we missed Rick by a few days. We are waiting to hear his review. C'mon Rick. Agnes is very flattered by all of the attention she is getting.
Bruce <email>
NY USA 07/31/01

On 4/30, Herb posted he enjoyed the food at 'Leo le Lion'. I would like to be able to say we did too, except they refused to serve us! It was a driving rain out, so the place was virtually deserted, except for another American family with their Rick Steve's book in their hip pocket. There were six in our party and apparently the chef was not interested in cooking 6 more meals that evening (according to the French that went back and forth to the kitchen). It was only 7:30,the tables weren't reserved for others, the 2 children in our party were older than the ones already seated, and we were dressed comparably to the customers they chose to serve. We offered to split into separate groups, but no amount of conversation could get us seated. We'll never know why the chef wasn't bothered to do his job that night, but I would caution others not to waste their time with this place, when there are so many other fine restaurants in Paris.
Elisa
USA 07/28/01

I love it when travelers say, "...AND THERE WERE NO AMERICANS THERE'. (see below post from the couple from Texas). Correction, there were no OTHER Americans there. Yes, it is nice to eat in a place frequented mainly by locals, but the fact that Americans are there too, doesn't mean that you can't enjoy the food, and shouldn't recommend it to others. To be truthful, don't the popular guide books seek out 'local' places, put them in their books, thus causing an influx of 'foreigners', American or otherwise? Not all Americans are loud and crass. Some of us actually know and appreciate good food. We have eaten in restaurants in Paris and elsewhere, that had mostly locals, and yes, sometimes we have been the _only_ Americans there, and guess what? That was no guarantee that the food and the service was good, in fact, sometimes it was just the opposite. Now that the couple from Texas have shared their secret find, aren't they afaid that _other_ Americans will eat there too? OK, I'll get off of my soapbox - just had to vent.
Nina
San Francisco, CA USA 07/24/01

Spent 3 weeks in France-8 days in Paris. Chez Agnes is the only restaurant to which I'll not return. Food simply wasn't good. MANY places in the area have MUCH better food. 10 or 12 people there-all americans-no locals. A local couple came in but left before ordering. The much written about friendliness & ambiance appears to be contrived just for tourist. A french woman came in and sang to one of the tables. Turned out she was paid by a freelance guide for his small group. Hate to be party pooper, but I'd much rather pack a picknic and watch the sun set behind the Eifel Tower as the lights are turned on.
Icky
Ames, Iowa USA 07/23/01

My husband and I are returning to France mid-September and appreciate all the restaurant recommendations for Paris. Can anyone recommend a great restaurant in Bordeaux as well as the Normandy area? Thanks.
Sue <email>
Lafayette, Ca USA 07/17/01

I would advise travelers to Paris not to go to the Samaritaine restaurant located in the Samaritaine department store. Although the food was good, the waiter was quite rude and the service was poor (This was not the case in any other restaurant in Paris during our two week stay). When the waiter realized we were Americans, the service basically stopped coming. The meal was expensive and on top of that they tacked on an 18% gratuity fee. I thoroughly discourage anyone from going there
Sheryl Strich <email>
Irvine, CA USA 07/17/01

Mike, I had just the opposite experience at Le P'tit Troquet in June (this summer) with six of my family members.I believe you hit a bad night which is too bad. The night I was there you could here a pin drop...even the waitress was so soft spoken you had to listen carefully to each word. They were very professional. I speak French but was hoping for an English menu for the benefit of my family but they told me they did not have one. I did my best to translate the menu and asked questions when necessary. The restaurant is little but every table was occupied. All customers were respectful and I honestly was not aware of tourists vs. French people. We had a wonderful experience and would go back in a heartbeat. Don't ban the restaurant yet. If I have a bad experience at a restaurant I tend not to go back again either so I thought it only fair to write of a very recent(good)experience there too.
Laurie <email>
USA 07/17/01

Had perhaps our best meal during a 3-week trip through Europe in Brugge. The restaurant is called Bistro Den Huzaar. It is on Vlamingstraat 36 near the Markt.
Pete
Salem, OR USA 07/16/01

I will be taking my first trip to Paris in about 2 weeks. I am staying in Paris for 3 days and then Cannes for 6 days. I have been travelling to Europe for the past 3 years, staying no less than 6 weeks per visit. Now, I need some advice: I would love to try Chez Agnes but I am a vegetarian. Does anyone recall if she offers non-meat items? The reviews are so great I would regret not dining there. Does anyone have any dining advice for Cannes, Nice, St Tropez, Monte Carlo or any other small village on the Riviera? Thanks
Lori <email>
parsippany, nj USA 07/16/01

We just returned from a great trip to Dordogne and Collioure. Our last night's meal in Paris we splurged at Le P'tit Troquet. Parisian friends took us there 5 yrs ago and it was special.This time it was filled with loud Americans, the menu was in English, the food mediocre and the price expensive, and it was clear that they had found the goose that laid the golden egg:cater to Americans, they don't know the difference anyhow. They now have a gig, and they are nice, but it's a poor value, and in Paris we could have done much better.
mike spring <email>
san rafael, ca USA 07/15/01

'Joia Restaurant and Bar was one of the most wonderful experiences we had on our June 2001 trip to France. The decor, the music, the food, the service, the presentation, the friendly people were fabulous! Located in the Rick-recommended town of Villafranche on the Riviera, this little gem celebrated its opening just ten days before we were lucky enough to wander in. The lamb was the best I've ever had, and my partner loved the huge, flavorful shrimp. We ate so much, we had to be rolled out of the place, but it was worth it! The owner was delightful and so helpful in translating and describing the menu; his English was exquiste. Please....don't miss it! 'Joia Restaurant $ Bar 18 Rue du Poilu 06230 Villefranche sur Mer tel:04 93 76 62 40
Donna M. Fisher <email>
Kirkland, WA USA 07/13/01

A wonderful restaurant in Seina, Italy is Nona Gina's, just 1 block down the hill from the Hotel Duomo (mentioned in Rick's Italy book). We spent about $35 and had a fabulous meal, including 1 desert. Enjoy!
Sandy Smith <email>
Kirkland, WA USA 07/11/01

After 3 weeks of searching, I never did find Coq Au Vin in France. Oh well - we sure found enough other wonderful foods! I have a tip for small groups traveling together. We were in a group of 4. Each day, we took turns at being in charge of where we ate all day. Those who were most budget concious got to select the grocery stores in the basements of the big department stores and we ate as well as when the "splurger" would choose the fancy restaurant with view of the river. Everyone had a chance and knowing that the next day would bring a change in management had us all checking out menus and laughing every day. Though we are all adults, I think it would be great for kids to have the adventure of choosing where to eat for 2 or 3 meals a day.
Bonnie <email>
Daytona Beach, FL USA 07/10/11

Still looking for a retaurant in Provence that serves a grat GRAND AIOLI!!!
mimi taylor <email>
cambridge, ma. USA 06/09/01

Nice, France - Arles, France We traveled along the Mediterranean coast between Nice and Barcelona for three weeks in May, 2001. Below are some of our favorite hotels and restaurants. During the trip US $1 = FF 7.4 and Ptas. 182. I found that my Cirrus ATM card worked everywhere. Have a great trip!

Nice, France — Nice was a convenient base for exploring the Cote D'Azur. Trains and buses are easy to find for St. Paul and the Fondation Maeght, Vence, Eze, Grasse, Cannes, Monte Carlo, Menton, etc. Nice is full of art-we especially enjoyed the Contemporary Art Museum. A FF 50 pass gets you into many museums (Matisse, but not Chagall). The flea market was fun on Saturday. We enjoyed the small Jean Cocteau museum in Menton (a cute town). We took a day trip to Cannes (festival was on)-it was great fun watching the marketing madness and the hordes of fans trying to catch up with their stars. Hotel Windsor, (33) 4 93 88 59 35; 11, Rue Dalpozzo, Nice FF 560 for standard w/shower 24 hr. cancellation; contact@hotelwindsornice.com , http://www.webstore.fr/windsor/anglais/00000009.htm This interesting hotel is in a central location a few blocks from the beach. It has pleasant and unusual amenities. I believe that all the rooms have some type of original artwork painted on the walls (our standard had a mural of "old Nice"). The deluxe rooms (FF 770) on the lovely garden have been decorated by internationally known modern artists and friends of the owner! There is a small pool for splashing about and breakfast in the garden is charming. The attic has an interesting workout and meditation room, along with a sauna (free). We did not see any air conditioning, so it might be too hot in summer. There is an internet café nearby and restaurant Le Chantilly is only a few blocks away. The staff speak excellent English. The nearby pedestrian area has many restaurants, coffee stands, souvenir shops, etc. but most seemed overpriced and of dubious quality. Le Chantilly (restaurant), 04 93 87 50 08, 12 rue Grimaldi, Nice This was our favorite among all the restaurants we visited during our trip. The charming hostess and owner offers generous menus for FF 90, 135, and 165. We never tried the 90, but the others were wonderful. In fact, everything we tried there was fabulous. It was too early in the year for outdoors dining, but the garden looks delightful in the photos out front. Highly recommended! Arles, France We enjoyed using Arles as a base for exploring Provence by car. The town is small-it's easy to walk nearly anywhere. The old town square is like a history book-it has a Roman-era obelisk, next to that a Gothic church, and on the left the newer town hall-it's only a few centuries old. "Buena Vista Social Club" gave a concert in the ancient Arena-a never to be forgotten venue! From Arles we easily visited the Luberon, Avignon, Les Baux, St. Remy, and other destinations. PS - After living in Arles, Avignon seemed vast and overwhelming.we were glad we chose the smaller town. One caution: we had a bad experience at Hammam Chiffa near the Rhone in Arles. They charged us FF 40 each for a small bottle of water and "rental" of an old towel. I won't go near the place again. Hotel Calendal, (33) 4 90 96 11 89, contact@lecalendal.com; 5, Rue Porte de Laure, Arles FF 380 for a standard double with shower, breakfast FF 60, 24 hr cancellation w/10% forfeit, http://www.lecalendal.com/US/INDEXUS.HTM The location and staff at the Calendal are great. The clean, cheery hotel sits next to the ancient theatre and a block from the majestic roman Arena. Our room was quiet and cool (though we did use the air con once or twice). The breakfast buffet is good and on warm days it is served in the charming garden. The staff speak excellent English. There are a number of places to leave a car nearby-you may even be able to rent a spot in the Calendal's garage itself. If not, the public Parking Des Lices, a five minute, pleasant walk from the hotel, costs FF 35 per day. L'Affenage (restaurant) 90 96 07 67, 4 rue Moliere (next to Espace Van Gogh) Arles. Unfortunately we only discovered L'Affenage late in our stay in Arles-but it was our best dining experience in that town. The welcome did not seem as warm as it might have been at first (perhaps because the hostess does not speak much English), but things improved later on. The "tastes of the South" appetizer buffet (comes with the FF 105 and 160 menus) was excellent and very generous. The buffet is available on its own for FF 75 and would make a nice light meal. The main courses and desserts were also very good and reasonably priced. Interestingly, the hostess cooks steaks in a barbecue built into the wall of the dining room (it has good ventilation).
Scott Wittet <email>
seattle, wa USA 07/05/01

Thank you to all the Chez Agnes (1 Bis rue Augereau, Paris) fans who previously posted raves on the Graffitti Wall. They were all true. My wife and I had a wonderful meal along with a great time. When we go back to Paris, this will be where we go for our first dinner. Saw in another posting that ETBD will be visiting her soon. As per discusion with Agnes, she does not want to be listed. She is very proud of the e-mail postings but her restaurant is too small for the number of people that would come if it were listed in Rick's guide books.
Robert Sheldon <email>
Reading, PA USA 07/03/01

I recently spent a weekend with my husband in Paris, as he was there on business. The hotel food was not so hot, so we went exploring the second night. We found a great restaurant named Chez Clement in the Port de Sevres area (on Blvd Lefebvre and Rue de Vaugirard). They had an interesting menu with good variety, very reasonable prices and super friendly staff. The decor is very homey: baskets and culinary articles don the walls, and copper pots hang on pillars above the restarant — very charming! They had an in-season special of the day (duck with cherries), which was gone, but they do serve lots of other wonderful homestyle food, of which we had steak, ribs, and lovely homemade mashed potatoes. They also serve lots of seafood dishes (I had lobster ravioli for my appetizer), nice big salads, and great desserts. The best thing SEVERAL of them around Paris! I was surprised, as it was so quaint and cozy. Their website is www.chezclement.com, which I hope is alright to share here. Oh, and most of the clientelle seemed to be French, which should say something. Glad I found it!
Clarissa Kelly <email>
Faversham, Kent, UK 07/03/01

For unspeakably good Thai food, Chantaboury (45.75.31.26) on Charles Michel Blvd. in the 15eme is a must! If you like it spicy, ask for "tres piquant" and they don't hold back! It's very small (7 or 8 tables), intimate, colorful, dimly lit, the service is excellent, the food is amazing, and it's a favorite among the locals. Also it's a great way to spend your time waiting for your laundry to be done right across the street at Miele &Lav Club, "le lavage parfait" the sign says! Open 7 days a week, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
outwriting <email>
Pacifica, CA USA 07/01/01

One restaurant we HIGHLY recommend is called La Tontine D'or, on 27, Rue J.P. Timbaud 75011. It's not your typical French bistro fare, in fact it's Cameroonian, but it's one of the most authentic, non-touristy places we found. There were NO Americans there (big plus), and the staff didn't speak English, but we communicated fine. And if you like spicy (read: extremely HOT) food, then this place is a must. You have to ask for the spice, though, as the staff assumes that you can't handle the hot stuff. We found it by accident when we discovered our original restaurant destination (taken from a tourbook) was closed. We're glad we goofed up!
lettie and benny <email>
austin, TX USA 06/25/01

suggestions for the 16th??
amsjones <email>
pompano beach , FL USA 06/24/01

I want to recommend, seriously, the McDonald's restaurant in Rouen, France - not for the food but for the decor. It is the most fabulous McDonald's that I have ever seen, having been built in a half-timbered structure that looks at least 300 years old! The restaurant has two floors, with the top floor "overhanging" the ground floor, stained glass windows, heavy wooden beams in the ceiling, and loads of wooden parquet decorations on the walls. It is located on Rue du Gros Horloge, Rouen's main pedestrian and shopping street since Roman times.
Gene Seiler <email>
Lewisville, TX USA 06/20/01

The restaurant in the Hotel du Blavet in Gouarec, Brittany was absolutely top notch. It boast Cuisine Terroir (sp)of the region. The langostinous, artichoke in puff pastry was a starter that made it hard to keep from licking your fingers and the veal loin with sorrel mushroom sauce was superb. Three course dinner for two with two bottles of wine was $80. The best meal on our trip, including Paris.
Margaret Carey <email>
USA 06/20/01

Still looking for a retaurant in Provence that serves a grat GRAND AIOLI!!!
mimi taylor <email>
cambridge, ma. USA 06/09/01

Can anyone recommend a restaurant or two in or near Avignon or Aix-en-Provence? Comments will be much appreciated.
Gary Simms <email>
Ashland, OR USA 06/08/01

I have to 2nd the suggestion of Port-en-Bessin and the mussels. We were there in early March and it was wonderful!
msa <email>
USA 06/06/01

"Le Bistro du 17ieme", 108 ave de Villiers, (Metro Pereire) is where my college student son first learned what it is to take 3 hours over a meal, and got a taste for both Beaujolais and Bordeaux. (So much so his first job after graduating is in Europe !) The food, ambiance, clientele (90% locals) are fantastic - and you need to book a table, especially Sunday lunch time ! (After living in Paris for 8 1/2 years - three assignments, my wife and I miss this place more than any other!)
Alastair Stone <email>
Louisville, CO USA 06/05/01

I just want to tell anyone who has seen Rick's episode on Carcasone, That the three men playing the music in the retaurant were part of the GYPSI KINGS, and thrr others were standing aside watching. i
mimi taylor <email>
cambridge, ma. USA 06/02/01

PORT-en-BESSIN is on the Normandy coast, easy to get to from Bayeux. It's a laid-back little town with a good bit of history (much pre-dating the invasion), and it's got a great harbor, filled with boats. For lunch, you might try La Rotonde, with an open patio, which overlooks part of the harbor. Get the mussels. Closer to the harbor are a number of shops and patisseries along the street. If you are thinking of a picnic, there is a tiny, first-class charcuterie (can't remember the name, but you can't miss it), with very friendly people, and great homemade items, especially "pate de campagne" and various saucissons etc. You can get wine there, too. (Remember to bring a corkscrew...!) If you want a reasonably upscale restaurant, there is the Hotel de Marine, around the corner. We didn't have a reservation, so were whisked upstairs...where the view of the harbor was surely better than what they got below. Great food, and a great waiter (with an electric blue jacket on). Beautiful, fantastic, fresh oysters. Lamb on skewers. For dessert, try "sorbet calvados". Sunday morning: an open air market, a pretty extensive one. We couldn't figure exactly how regular an occurrence this is, so check ahead of time. Outrageous food stalls: wonderful fruits, vegetables, cheese, etc. etc. And the most interesting thing to look at: the fish stalls, complete with rows of artfully displayed creatures, including my favorite, a giant, ugly fish, decapitated, and revealing perfectly white flesh...a fish known as the "congre". I wish we could have had some of it.
John <email>
Columbia, SC USA 06/01/01

The restaurant at Hostellerie les Florets in Gigondas was a gourmet treat. We dined on the patio among the roses with a mountain backdrop. The service was a nice balance of relaxed formality. Even their wine by the glass was lovely.
<email>
USA 06/01/01

My wife and I just returned from our 5th trip to Paris. Two restaurants that are not in your guidebook stood out. MONTMARTRE-We ate at a restaurant 8 years ago which was fantantic and a great bargain. It is now under a new owner and is called La Queue du Chat at 28 Rue de Tholoze just off Rue Lepic down some steps. Great meal and atmosphere for only 139 francs prix fixe. 7th near Rue Cler-I had read about Aux Marmites d' Agnes on the graffiti board and it sounded interesting. We made a reservation (required 01 45 51 06 04). It is located next to the Hotel Londres at 1 bis, rue Augereau. Imagine being invited to Grandma's house for dinner but instead of just one dish from which to choose Grandma would cook you anything you wanted. Madame Agnes is a warm and unusal person (part Tahitian) and the experience was like being in someone's dining room while she cooked for you and frequently sat down with you to enjoy and converse. It was inexpensive and very good. Oh, yes, Agnes opened the restaurant just for us. Dinner lasted three hours and would have gone on longer if we hadn't wanted to walk the Champs Elysees before catching the Metro. Madame mentioned that someone from ETTB is planning to visit this summer. This restaurant would be an example of a back door even though in a big city. It is hard to believe Rick has missed this one given its proximity to Rue Cler.
LARRY WESTFALL <email>
SAN DIEGO, CA USA 05/30/01

Just returned from our first (but definitely not last) trip to Paris. The best vacation we've ever had!! The Hotel de Londres Eiffel was wonderful; a staff that was so helpful; excellent breakfast; great atmosphere - we will go back! Cafe le Bosquet's French Onion soup was a delight and the apple tart at the boulangerie across the street from Cafe le Bosquet was "melt-in-your-mouth" good. However, nothing could compare to Chez Agnes. Run by Madame Agnes (and her dog Gypsy), this tiny restaurant has to be the best..the absolute best...in Paris. Salad with a dressing like none I'd ever had; pork chops that were made in heaven and dessert....well, it was delicious. We went in as strangers, but when we left (at 12:30 a.m.), we knew we'd found a new friend. Chez Agnes will always be our "first stop" when we go to Paris!!!
Janie Swaringen <email>
Advance, NC USA 05/19/01

Sil vous plait!!!!Will someone email me if they know where in Provence they serve a great GRAND AIOLI...cigalechanta@hotmail.com
mimi taylor <email>
cambridge, ma. USA 05/17/01

Having just returned from a week in Paris, where I benefited SO greatly from the advice of others here, I thought I should reciprocate!

We went straight to Chez Agnes our first night. A memorable evening! We were the only people in the place. She was so thrilled when we told her we found out about her on the internet, she made us delicious "welcome" cocktails and showed us pictures and various gifts previous diners had sent her! We passed an incredible evening talking about the everything under the sun (in pidgin French and English). It was as if we were invited into the home of a new French friend. Our warm and wonderful experience there set the tone for the rest of our fantastic trip. (If you go, please tell Madame that the translation of Lotte is Monkfish! We had quite a charade trying to figure that out.)

Another great recommendation is Au Lys D'Argent on Rue St Louis en L'Isle — the place has incredible charm and a delicious and reasonable lunch. For pastries and tea, and yet more exquisite Parisian charm, go a little further down Rue St louis en L'isle to "Charlotte en L'isle" (I think it is #38). What a place, but there are only about 5 tables! This, as well as the hot chocolate and Mont Blanc pastry at "Angelina" on the rue Rivoli, CAN NOT be missed!

The other postings about L'As Du Falafel and indeed all of Rue de Rosiers were right on the money. Undoubtedly the best falafel in the world.

We splurged at "Le Train Bleu" for lunch on our last day and felt so fancy! It is a gorgeously restored jewel of the Belle Epoque in the Gare de Lyon. It would be a shame to miss it. I wholeheartedly recommend a visit. If you don't want to spend a bundle just have a glass of wine or afternoon cocktail in the wonderful red leather chairs and couches of the bar area — it is all the same room and you would only spend about US$10. It will transport you to the glamour of long ago when rail travel was the only way to go. Bon appetit!
<email>
chicago, il USA 05/15/01

Many thanks to Paul S. Burdette, Jr. for his comments below on La Tournesol (2 rue de Lambelle). This lovely bistro in a quiet residential part of Paris was a real treat. No way many tourists will ever be aware of this establisment.

One of our favorite little bistros, right near Notre Dame, is Le Maison on Rue de Buechere at Rue de Degree. Great food, atmosphere, and service for a place not frequented by tourists. Princing is very reasonable. On nice evenings they have tables outside with a view toward the Seine and ND.
Allan Margolies <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 05/14/01

Just returned from 5 days in Paris and I need to second the comment made be Lee Schiller about running to L'As du Fallafel, 34 rue des Rosiers. We went for a quick lunch here several times and indeed some of the best falafel we have had anywhere including in Israel.
Allan Margolies <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 05/14/01

On Rue Mouffetard try:

1) Le Jardin d'Artemis, which is recommended in Rick's book. Escargot, foies gras, casserole, suckling pig, charlotte chocolate and pastries with ice cream were wonderful. Good price fix in a cozy atmosphere.

2) Crepes with eggs, ham and cheese for breakfast. Suggest the one near the Coffee Company. It will keep you filled for most of the day.

3) Coffee Company has take-away "flavored" coffee (a nice pleasure), but only Earl Grey and herbal teas.

4) Stop in any of the Chinese restaurants for a spring roll.

5) At the water fountain, there are two restaurants with outside seating; try the less trendy-looking one. Great place to have a late-afternoon beer and fries.

In Rue Cler, we tried Le Petit Nicois on Rue Amelie which is on the cross street and next to a hotel. Great Coq au Vin which was included in the price fix. With wine, it was about 80 USD. People were very friendly and some tables had kids. I think this should be added to the book! It is also open every day.

Lastly, try the falafel/doner kebab sandwiches in the Marais on Rue des Roisiers, off of rue des Ecouffes. It is excellent and people are lined up outside. There are also a few Jewish bakeries/shops with bagels, knishes and fresh bread. Smelled excellent.
Christine Mohrmann <email>
Lausanne, CH 05/13/01

I returned recently to "Leo le Lion" in Paris and discovered that the restaurant has changed hands...apparently Mimi decided to hang up her apron one last time and retire. The name is the same, the decor is much the same, and the very friendly waiter, Frederick, is still there (with his usual admonition, "no panic," and his "crumb taxi" in hand).

The menu, however, has changed. The new owner/chef specializes in seafood and game (when in season), and the menu is now a la carte — several starters, three or four fish dishes, a couple of steaks, duck, etc. We enjoyed our meal very much; the quality of the ingredients and preparation seems very high, and the portions are very generous. I am definitely looking forward to going back.
Herb <email>
Glendale, CA USA 04/30/01

I had the best meals of my life at Chateau d'Ecutigny, a 12th-century castle turned into B&B just outside of Beaune. Five-course meals, three wines, champagne, all for the equivalent of about $35. The hosts are so gracious and it's a great place to stay if you are visiting Burgundy.
Donna <email>
CA USA 04/27/01

For great eats in Paris:

A la Pomponnette Bistro, 42 Rue Lepic, 18th (Metro Blanche. Easy walking distance from the dreaded "Pig Alley" and the Sacre Coeur): No English menu, no tourists — nothing but great food and good regional wines at reasonable prices. I had a salad of hot goat cheese, greens and haricots verts (green beans), followed by braised lamb shank and white beans in a perfect sauce, washed down with cru Beaujolais. Wow. The lady serving us stood there for a good five minutes or so explaining the menu to us, taking care to list all ingredients. What a sweetheart.

Restaurant Le Durer was another find. No English is spoken, but if you can figure out what steak frites and l'eau minerale mean, you will do fine. Terrine of duck liver with aspic was followed by rib steak in Bordelaise sauce. The best french fries of my life were served in a steaming bowl for the table. Wine was an excellent Brouilly from Burgundy. We ate late that night, but far from being rushed, the owner appeared after dessert with a homemade plum brandy for us, served free of charge! (19 rue Yvonne-le-Tac, 18th arr. Metro Abesses.)
joe santa maria <email>
Stratford , NJ USA 04/23/01

Run, don't walk, to L'As du Fallafel, 34 rue des Rosiers, in the 4th arrondisement, smack-dab in the middle of the Marais, and order the Falafel Special for 25 francs. It is the best falafel sandwich in the world, bar none, and perhaps the best cheap meal in Paris you will find. It is huge and contains eggplant, four falafels, red cabbage, and cucumbers and dill dressing. If you get sick of the falafels you can also have it with kosher chicken. And you can either take it out or eat in.

Another recommendation for cheap eats is the open-air market in the 17th, just one block north of the Termes metro stop, just off Rue De Termes (look for the Darty sign when you exit the station). The rotisserie chicken and potato salad is incredible, the fruits and vegetables are "tres" fresh, and if you're lucky you'll find bratwurst being cooked on the street at the German deli. The street also contains what may be on the best and cheapest Pan Paul's in town as well as a Chinese dumpling store, Jeff of Brugges chocolate shop, and a great fromagerie (Métro: St-Paul).
Lee Schiller <email>
Philadelphia, PA USA 04/21/01

To find the best wine, go to a local grocery store, find the wine aisle, decide if you want red or white, and spend the equivalent of US$4. You'll be very pleased.
Amy <email>
Denver, CO USA 04/20/01

Just returned from France. I don't think you can get a bad meal there, and I grew up in New Orleans with great food. Our favorites were La Pailotte in Arles, and a great pastry in the Richelieu dining room in the Louvre. The Cafe du Marche on Rue Cler has the best coffee and the best roast duck.
Laura Wilson <email>
Austin, Tx USA 04/20/01

Cafe du Marche on the Rue Cler was just o.k. but we had a very fun waiter.
Patricia Eachus <email>
Gig Harbor, WA USA 04/15/01

Just returned from Paris. Don't want anyone out there to miss Rick's suggestion to go to "Cafe Med" on the Ile St. Louis. The correct address is #77 — not #73, as listed in Rick's guidebook. Seems trivial but we walked right past it. We kept looking and ended up going there twice for lunch. It is a small cafe with the best lunches we had in Paris for the money...around $8.00. We saw so many people walk right by it looking for an address which isn't posted. Look for the awning that says Cafe Med...do it, do it, do it!
Patricia Eachus <email>
Gig Harbor, , WA USA 04/15/01

An absolutely delightful little neighborhood bistro in Paris with, bar none, the BEST food we have ever eaten anywhere in the world, and for a price to make you lick your chops: You MUST go visit "Le Tournesol" at 2 avenue de Lamballe, 75016 Paris, tel. 01-45-25-95-94. It is in the 16th arrondisement, just off of avenue de President Kennedy, two block below the Eiffel Tower, with a view of the Seine. About $40 US included full meal, aperatif, postprandial, and TWO bottles of the most pleasing local rose I've ever tasted. Tres romantique! The service is lovely, too.
Paul S. Burdette, Jr. <email>
Highlands, NJ USA 04/14/01

Just returned from my third trip to Paris in recent years and had a food experience that will never be forgotten.

Browsed these postings before departing and followed advice to visit Chez Agnes, 1 bis, rue Augereau, Paris 75007.

My traveling companion and I arrived at 8:15 pm. Agnes and her dog, Gypsy, immediately seated us and offered menus. We had drunk red wine at lunch, so we ordered a bottle of white wine from the menu. Agnes sputtered something in French and was grumbling in the kitchen while pulling our bottle. (Read on to see why!) When she returned to our table, we ordered salmon. Agnes said "non, non." After a few seconds I realized she was saying she didn't have any salmon. She offered me coq au vin and she pointed at my companion and said poulet (chicken). We said yes.

After talking with the other patrons we discovered that white wine should only be consumed with seafood and Agnes wasn't serving seafood that evening! But once she discovered that we were there because of the Rick Steves' postings she changed dramatically — especially when we ordered dessert and after-dinner drinks.

Chez Agnes is a very small operation, with just about 8 tables. She turns her tables just once per night. Don't expect to rush dinner. Agnes is the waitress, cook, server, manager, owner, everything. I suspect she even does the dishes! Agnes is a pro and knows how to juggle everything, so don't get upset if it appears you are being ignored — you aren't — she has a proven method of running her restaurant.

Cost (2 people, bottle of wine, dinner, desserts, after-dinner drinks) was $45 US! I can't wait to visit Agnes again.

It was 12:15 am and Agnes, another group of diners and we were still talking and drinking. We'd had asked for the bill earlier...finally, I explained that we were Metro riders (the trains stop at 12:30 am) and Agnes immediately presented the bill with geniune concern that we knew how to get to our hotel if we missed the last Metro train.

Chez Agnes, her food, her dog and the entire dining experience will be remembered as the BEST EXPERIENCE I have ever had in Paris. The food was incredible, with huge servings. Agnes is a wonderful hostess.
Ed Girou <email>
St. Louis, MO USA 04/12/01

For above-average food in the Rue Cler area try Cafe' La Roussillon at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler; Le Petit Nicois 10 rue Amelie near recommended hotel (Rick's and mine) Hotel Les Jardins Eiffel; and L'affriole at 17 rue Malar.
George Scott <email>
savage, mn USA 04/03/01

my son and I just returned from Paris. following rick steve's suggestion, we had dinner at Leo the Lion. it was funny to watch each couple come in and pull out the rick steves guidebook! the sole french couple in their must have felt out of place! the food was quite good, but there was no price fix menu - and the items were not expensive! the waiter told us they had a new "big boss" so apparently mimi, who, according to RS had been there for 20 years, is no longer there - rather it's now francois and didier.
candy <email>
USA 03/30/01

We traveled to the Chamonix area in 1999 and stayed in Cordon (a relatively short ride from Chamonix) at Les Roches Fleuries. It is a lovely inn with a very good restaurant with cuisine of the Savoyarde. We dined there each evening as they required demi-pension. This was fine as the meals were great and the view of Mont Blanc out the picture windows was spectacular.

If you have a car, consider staying out of Chamonix. It is pretty busy and touristy. Don't miss the ride up Aiguille d'Midi and the little gondolas to Italy!
Liz <email>
Seattle, WA USA 03/27/01

We just returned from Paris a couple weeks ago and our hotel recommended two restaurants, which we loved. Both restaurants definitely should be listed in Rick's books!

The Cana Bar, which is located in the 14th at 22 Rue Raymond Losserand, was wonderful! The staff does not speak much English, but they were very welcoming and did a great job at trying to explain the menu. We were very glad we had our phrase book with us. The menu included frogs legs, duck, steak, chicken, salmon, etc. and then they also had HUGE salads (for main courses). We had our children with us, ages 7 and 9, and our dinners, including wine and dessert, never cost us more than a total of US$50. Would have been worth it if the cost was double. We were the only Americans in the restaurant...and we ate there 3 nights. It fills up quickly, so get there early.

The other place we enjoyed was the Creperie Bretonne, at 56 Rue Montparnasse. The crepes there are filled with assorted meats, cheeses, veggies. The menu is also in English, which helps. The lady who does all the cooking was very nice and even came over and asked if she could help us at all. That meal, for 4 including wine, came to US$25. Great food, even better service, and the price...unbelieveable!

The creperie had various tourists, but the Cana Bar only had locals each night we were there. Saw some of the same people several times.
M Alleman <email>
Snohomish, WA USA 03/26/01

I agree, Chez Agnes is wonderful as is Agnes herself! We were there on Valentine's Day and had the most amazing dinner. The chicken was fantastic! It was such a wonderful evening and with great company. There were 2 American couples and 3 French couples and they were all delightful. We had so much fun that we looked up and it was after midnight (we had been there for 3 hours) and enjoyed every minute of it. We are already planning our next trip around seeing Agnes in October.

This is a wonderful, must-do experience if you want that quaint, cozy feel in Paris with a hostess to remember. She showed us the postings on this web site as well and though they had led us to her, I don't think that they truly did justice to the food and the experience. You have to go there to find out how good it is. I believe that if you do, it will remain as one the the things that you fondly look back on about your time in Paris. I know that I will.
CJ <email>
Royal Oak, MI USA 03/22/01

One of the best dining experiences of our recent trip to Paris happened entirely by luck! We had gone to the Eiffel Tower early in the evening, and must have lost track of time, because by the time we left and started looking for a place to eat - everything was closed! I was starting to panic, when I looked up a side street and saw a place. There was one couple, and a woman (and a dog) sitting inside. I asked if they were open and the woman hesitated a moment before she gave a lackluster "OK." We asked if she spoke English and she said "no." Uh oh, we thought, perhaps we were not welcome here...

But the woman at the other table was kind enough to offer her assistance, and we easily placed our order, and the owner went into the kitchen to prepare our meal. She brought us out dried sausage that was delicious with our wine...then, I had pate for the first time and was not disappointed!

As the meal went on, the warmer Agnes became. Although she does not speak English, we communicated with smiles and laughter and lots of charade-type moves! And the food got better and better too! I had pork with honey sauce that was AMAZING!

We began chatting with the woman at the other table who spoke English, and I mentioned that I'd have to write about "Chez Agnes" on the Rick Steves site (which I had studied before went). The woman told Agnes, who ran into the kitchen to bring us the 2 previous postings that other people had written about her! Then I actually remembered them both distinctly - because both postings described not only the delicious food, but also the warm and fun experiences they had at "Chez Agnes."

We shared dessert with her poodle "Gypsy" who also mugged for the camera. At the end of the night she brought us delicious after-dinner drinks, and we all posed for photos and hugged each other as we left! It was one of those memorable travel moments...and I highly reccomend you go in for dinner!

Chez Agnes - 1 bis, rue Augereau, Paris 75007
noelle <email>
brooklyn, ny USA 03/21/01

Who needs a restaurant in Paris? Give me a warm crepe, a cold Orangina and a park bench in Paris & I am happy as can be.
Tom T <email>
New York, NY USA 03/11/01

I agree with the person who mentioned les moules. I was last in Paris in December, and my friends took me to Léon de Bruxelles near the Montparnasse Tower. Good stuff, lively atmosphere, and I suffered some good-natured ribbing from my friends (and from the waiter) for being from this side of the Atlantic. Moules, Moules, Moules!
Mike <email>
Xenia, OH USA 03/10/01

We just returned from two weeks in Paris. We visited six of Steves' recommended resturants and enjoyed them all. We also agree with one of the previous reviews: you should try a meal of moules (mussels), they are great. There is a small chain called "Leon de Bruxelles" that we enjoyed twice. One was on Champs-Elysees and the other was at 131 bd St-Germain. A meal consisting of a big pot of moules (plus great broth), french fries, and a glass of beer was 67FF, about $10.
Gregg & Judy <email>
Rapid City, SD USA 03/08/01

Dinner at the Jules Verne restaurant (in the Eiffel Tower) was not only breathtaking but the food and service were outstanding as well. We have also enjoyed lunch there and the orange dessert crepes are alone worth the trip.

If you have price restrictions this is not the place for you. Altitude 95 is one level below the Jules Verne, and while the food and service are not of the same quality (but not bad), it does offer the same fabulous views of Paris for considerably less money.
EJL
Atlanta, GA USA 03/06/01

A highlight of being unexpectedly stranded at the French/Italian border in Menton, France, because of an Italian rail strike, was finding a great meal at Le Boudoir at 9, Avenue Thiers. The meal was exquisite, with wonderful service, & well within our budget (less than $50 for two courses plus wine for 3 people!).

We also recommend Le Musset at 5, rue de l'Echelle in Paris for a quick but good sandwich - we had a fun time here!

Also try Il Terrazzino at 2 rue des Iris in Monte Carlo - great antipasto buffet on a budget!
Peggy <email>
Littleton, CO USA 02/25/01

On a post last month I mentioned that the creperie across from the Hotel Castex had closed. I guess it was, in fact, temporary, as Martin - who works at the hotel - says that it is open again. So crepe-lovers can rest easy knowing that the best crepes in Paris are being served again.
Tom Trevor <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 02/17/01

Just downhill from the train station in Rouen on the main street (on your right as you head downhill) you'll find a shop offering sandwiches to go. We grabbed one on our way out of Rouen to take with us on the train. A long baguette with sliced potatoes, chicken, and a wonderful sauce was the BEST thing we ate on our trip.
Wade Norman <email>
Cambridge, MA USA 02/16/01

i read all the people who rave about CAFE BOSQUET in paris, but my husbnad and i have the opposite opinion. yes, the food was good, but the attitude we received from our female server was extremely rude.

we did however find a cafe dome on the corner of champs de mars and bourdonnais where the people hugged us each time we went in. the food was good and the waiter jacques was a jewel. i am returning in april, and will be staying in a different area, but will commute to see our happy friends.
sandra mannravalappil <email>
stamford, CT USA 02/09/01

Two years ago, another couple, my husband and I planned a gourmet trip to Paris. I researched the places for our meals in advance. (Make sure you get a fax for confirmation of reservations at popular and/or famous restaurants.)

I would definitely recommend the Taillevent if you can get in. Four hours and $500 for the two of us, but the most memorable goumet experience of my life.
Debbie Bailey <email>
Dublin, OH USA 02/03/01

Another restaurant in Arles to supplement Rick's great guidebook recommendations: Restaurant l'Escaladou, 23, rue Porte de Laure in the old-town section of Arles is a family-style provencal restaurant with wonderful food, big servings, and small prices (tel. 04 90 96 70 43).
TC Baker
San Leandro, CA USA 01/29/01

Au Lys d'Argent
90, rue St-Louis-en-l'Ile
Tel: 46.33.56.13

Tiny place. Great for lunch. Quiche very good. Chocolat a l'Ancienne divine. The first time we ate lunch there we ordered both the hot chocolate and the dark chocolate cake, and Mme. Mondor murmured in French, "All the sins!" Oui.
Nan
CA USA 01/28/01

Provence: I can't thank Rick enough for his recommendations of Les Baux and the Caves de Sarragnan winery. We also enjoyed the Wine Lovers Loop and the Le Domaine des Girasols winery.

In Vaison la Romaine up in the Ville-Haute, there is a great pizzeria/café called Le Vieux Viason. The food was good and inexpensive and the view couldn't be beat.
TC Baker
San Leandro, CA USA 01/25/01

On a recent trip to the impossibly picturesque "route du vin" in Alsace, we stopped in the colorful half-timbered village of Dambach-la-ville for a glass of the local grand cru. There, on the cobbled main street, we discovered a charming vinstub called "La Vignette." Warm, wood-paneled interior, gingham, and flower boxes, and the best tarte flambe (gruyere cheese and bacon on a pizza-like crust) in the region. As a bonus, the owner is delightfully charming — she endured our limited French, helped us with pronunciations and gave great tips, and is extraordinarily beautiful.
Carla Passarello <email>
Middleburg, VA USA 01/19/01

The wonderful little creperie across the street from the Hotel Castex in Paris has closed as of November. They served the best crepes, both sweet and savory. My hope is that it is just closed for renovations and that it will be re-open by the time I return again in July.
Tom Trevor <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 01/08/01

Just wanted to suggest a nice creperie in the Latin Quarter... a large selection of sweet and savory crepes, reasonable prices, and a friendly owner who's got his own travel pictures all over the wall. It's called Crepe Caree (sorry I've omitted the accents) and it's at 42, rue Monge. Enjoy!
Christina <email>
Cambridge, MA USA 01/08/01

If you are a serious eater, get to Lyon as soon as possible. This is a place where food can be taken to extremes, and where quality is superb, along with service and price.

We ate lunch at Tante Alice in the 2eme arrondisement (on a fluke), where I had a menu de terroir for 140 francs, and my husband had the menu traditionnel for 175 francs — that was a four-course lunch with some of the best food we've ever had, in a stylish but not stuffy atmosphere, with wonderful service...simply the best!

In addition, Restaurant Jura, a typical "bouchon" (that's Lyonnais for "bistro") on Rue Tupin, rates high. Never judge these kinds of places for their decor; they are meant to be homely and homey. Judge them on their food.

Just one word of warning: the Lyonnais eat all parts of an animal. That means ALL parts. If you are squeamish, you can either not ask what something is OR refrain from andouillette, tete de veau, jambonneau, etc.

Finally, just because a restaurant calls itself a "bouchon" doesn't make it one. Be careful, and do not eat on the Rue Merciere — it just screams "tourist trap". But do not miss Lyon!
Rochelle Weiner <email>
Germantown, NY USA 01/05/01