Mouthwatering Italy: 2000
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Italy, what are its favorite taste treats?
I visited a great cooking school in Tuscany, the link is on my web site (www.europewithasmile.com) under "I Suggest." Enjoy!
Tom <email>
santa rosa, ca USA 12/29/00
In Italy, it is important to eat a balanced diet with a variety of choices from the four major food groups. My four main choices were chocolate gelato, hazelnut gelato, lemon gelato and amaretto gelato ... giggle.
silvervelvet1 <email>
Detroit, MI USA 12/25/00
I must echo the Rick recommendation in Sorrento, Italy, for Zi 'Ntonio (Uncle Tony's) which was very good. Like most places they don't open until 7 or 8 but they were nice enough to let us sit and wait. We had pizza Margherita and fried sea bass with wine and lemoncello. Total was 88,000L or $38.60. That is cheap! Now is the time to go to Italy!
In Napoli we went to another Rick recommendation, L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele. This was a wonderful place. In one of its two small rooms is a large wood-burning pizza oven. The crew consists of about 8 men. One is cashier and two are making the pizzas, the rest are waiters or they are putting the pizzas in the oven. When I stood and tried to take a picture, one of them shouted, "Picture, Picture!" and they all grouped together and posed, some in crazy poses. Nutty bunch. The pizza was delicious. I had Napoletana and my wife had Margherita. Margherita was named for Margherita of Savoy, an early queen, and is the "true" or original pizza, according to them. Pepper, tomato and cheese are supposed to represent the colors of Italy.
I had seen a tip bucket earlier, so I asked where it was and was told, "Oh, Martin probably stole it. He steals all our tips so you might as well give it to him to start with." I gave it to Martin who smilingly held out his hand.
Charles M. Luther <email>
Katy, TX USA 12/22/00
Thank you, Giardino, for recommending the book "A Summer in Tuscany." We used it as our field guide. I found it at amazon, and what sold me was the review that said this is for Barolo tastes with Chianti wallets. Grazie.
Gretchen <email>
WY USA 12/18/00
The best cheese in the world is from Asiago. It is called, what else, Asiago cheese.
When visiting Venice, you must go to La Scala restaurant. The specialty is liver. Even if you do not like liver, you could change your mind by trying the house specialty.
Gary S. Turk <email>
Colorado Springs, CO USA 12/17/00
When in the Cinque Terre don't miss the bruschetta at the bar-cafè FAST in Monterosso. What a treat, and cheap, too — about $2.50 for 4 big bruschetta with tomatoes and garlic. They also have internet access, even though the computer always seems to be broken (I never saw it on). There is an internet place practically next door, though, that is owned by Fast's owner's wife. She's American and we loved her (see my entry in Cyber cafes). At night Fast gets filled up with kids and we found it kind of intimidating, even though it looked fun. Anyway, their food is GREAT and cheap. Don't be fooled by the fact that it isn't a classic restaurant.
Bob Ashe <email>
NeEw york, NY USA 12/16/00
I just wanted to say THANK YOU to all the people who tried and then recommended Il Frantoio in Rome! My parents own the restaurant and asked me if I could write something showing their thanks. They don't have access to the internet and have no idea how often they are mentioned. They also would like everyone planning to be in Rome to know that they will be open on all the holidays. Buon Appetito.
Mena <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA 12/15/00
When we stayed in Monterosso (one village in Cinque Terre), we stopped at this little vegetable store operated by a woman and her daughter. They made their own pesto — the best I have ever had in my entire life. Everyone I feed it to agrees. Sorry, I dont remember the name of the store, but there are only so many...
J. Abraham <email>
USA 12/10/00
Although I had little luck stumbling around Naples trying to find San
Severo or Santa Chiara, I did end up on Via Cesare Sesale in front of
the Antica Pizzeria da Michele, noted by Rick as a stop for the pizza
purist. As promised, the place was filled with locals. After waiting in
the street for my number to be called, I was seated and ordered up a margherita
pizza and beer for $4.00. What a taste delight. The water buffalo mozzarella,
which I had not previously tasted, was really delicious. Thanks for the
tip.
Ken Malmin <k-malmin@hotmail.com>
Lacey, WA USA 12/07/00
In Florence's Oltrarno disrict, up the hill on Via Maggio (at no. 61),
is Trattoria La Baruciola (tel: 21 89 06), the best restaurant we've eaten
in in Florence, by far. It was as good this year as in 1999. Specialty
is funghi (mushrooms), but the broad menu has many other unusual items,
including interesting non-pasta options. The restaurant, open seven days
a week, is in the heart of the antiques district, and attracts a sophisticated
clientele at lunch; dinner may be less crowded. Prices are not higher
than what you would pay for mediocre tourist fare and it is clean and
beautifully decorated in a spare manner. There are only about ten tables.
To get there, it's an easy five- to ten-minute walk up from Ponte Vecchio.
Mike Tschebull <tschebull@cshore.com>
Darien, CT USA 12/02/00
We were en route down the west coast to Rome. On a whim we turned off and went to Porto San Stefano. We rounded the corner on the hill above the town and were met with a gorgeous sight. Much of this summer resort was closed in November, but we found La Pace restaurant open, where we could sit by a large plate glass window and enjoy the view (and watch our car) as we ate lunch.
The owner is Roberto da Roma and a former fisherman. We said in our halting Italian that we wanted seafood, and we left the selections to them.
They began to bring us dishes: antipasta consisting of eel and calamari
in sauce, sliced anchovies drizzled in olive oil, and the thinnest slices
of salmon I've ever seen lightly covered with spices and oil. Then a hot
platter of mussels steamed in butter and garlic. Following that were 8"
long sardines dusted in meal and lightly sauteed. The pasta came next
in a red sauce with shrimp, calamari and more eel. The entree was a delightful
baked fish about 18" long splayed open so the meat could be easily picked
from the bones and skin, and served in the European style with head and
tail attached. This was sourrounded by large prawns that were fried in
their shell. With a sweet dessert and a glass of grappa, we had not only
consumed the most delicious meal, but two hours' time.
Ted & Sarah <tedw.rtw@gte.net>
Tampa, Fl USA 12/02/00
In Rome, right across the street from ETBD-recommended Hotel Pensione
Italia, is Trattoria "da Tito" at Via Venezia, 21. It's small, inexpensive
and filled with locals. We were greeted by the cheerful, laughing proprietor
who didn't speak much English, but recommended the house special, minestone
soup. It was great. We ate there 2 out of 5 nights in Rome and it was
our favorite.
Roger Geisler <geislerr@cs.com>
Encinitas, CA USA 12/01/00
The best food we had in all of Italy was in Sorrento at the Il Nido.
It is not in the book but is recommended by many on this site. It is above
Sorrento and the owners will pick you up. We ate dinner there all three
days of our stay. A family runs it and Grandma and Grandpa do the cooking.
Eerything homemade. Incredible. The hotel is great too.
G Han <ghan@bigfoot.com>
Key Biscayne, FL USA 11/30/00
In Modena, here are two non-touristy restaurant recommendations. You won't regret eating at either of these wonderful eateries:
For a scenic drive outside the town itself, go to "Il Molino", a restaurant/pizzeria, about 40 km west of Modena, owned and run by two Iranian brothers, Bahram and Feridoon. A wonderfully friendly staff serves excellent food and great pizza at reasonable prices. There's a sports bar and an outdoor seating area as well. Don't miss the lemon ice spiked with vodka for dessert. (Via Rotta, 3 Finale Emilia. TEL 0535 91181)
For those of you who are very hungry and like all-you-can-eat-buffets,
"La Tramontana da Gianni" is walkable from the train station. Fixed price
of 40,000 Lire includes your choice of more than 20 cold and hot antipasti,
four kinds of hot pasta freshly cooked, a second course of meat, and desserts.
Gianni himself dotes on his customers and has decorated the place with
photos, postcards, newspaper clippings and all sorts of wonderful stuff.
(At the corner of Via Donati and Via Buozzi, TEL (059) 312074)
Amber Sabri <amsabri@aol.com>
San Francisco, CA USA 11/28/00
It has been a few years since we visited Italy and enjoyed their delicious
gelato. Just found a stateside substitute that will do until we return:
Haagen-Daz Gelato in pints at your supermarkets. Hazelnut is my favorite,
as it was in Italy!
Jerry <jerryarter@worldnet.att.net>
Orlando, FL USA 11/23/00
We stayed at Hotel Accademia in Florence. This was one of our best experiences
in Italy. The location is great, the hotel is elegant and the woman who
runs it, Tea, was wonderful. And right next door is a fabulous trattoria,
Trattoria Antellesi, where we had one of the best meals ever. Check out
the zuppa di farro and the ossobuco.
anthony paceoni <cols@qwest.net>
Santa Fe, NM USA 11/19/00
Gambero Rosso was very good in Vernazza. The tourist menu allows for a sampling of several different dishes that made for a chance to taste some things that would have otherwise been missed. Vernazza is definitely the place to eat in Cinque Terre. We were not impressed with Monterosso restaraunts.
In Siena our favorite restaraunt was Antica Osteria Da Divo. The food was outstanding and the setting was very unique.
Assisi had one of our favorite restaraunts of all, La Pallotta. The
food was great and lots of it. Once again the menu gave a tourist option
to order one whole meal with a good-size sample of each delicious entree.
Paul and Heidi <paul_leto@hotmail.com>
Seattle, WA USA 11/17/00
A tip for those ordering gelato in hot weather - get it in a cup rather
than a cone. If you go for the cone, it will run down your arm almost
faster than you can eat it!
Jennifer Fresco
Lahti, FIN 11/15/00
In Milan definitly go to Ristorante Pizzeria Calafuria Unione! Our waiter was amazing and, seeing my boyfriend's indecision, directed him into a huge feast. I'm still not sure what we actually ordered and what he just brought us. Having never had a pizza in Italy before, I decided on that for dinner. When he brought the pizza out he pointed to my boyfried, said in Italian "your love," and set down a heart-shaped pizza! The pizza was pure heaven and the multiple plates of food my other half ended up with were amazing.
In Vernazza, we made reservations early at Castello and ended up with a table on the ledge under the castle. The sun was setting just as we sat down and it was an incredible experience. Everyone was so nice and the food was great! Also, visit the Blue Marlin bar. The bartender sat at our table and gave a long explanation on how to make pasta with the pesto we bought. He also let us take our drinks down to the breakwaters.
In Bellagio we had two wonderful meals at the Hotel Suisse. With the
US Dollar so strong right now it is well worth the splurge. We sat outside
watching the sunset over the lake and the food was wonderful.
Starr M. Carr <scarr@iex.net>
Highlands Ranch, CO USA 11/14/00
While in the Cinque Terre, try anything pesto, the area's specialty! We
went on a picnic one day and I had a sandwich made with pesto paste. It
was sooo good I bought my own little jar of pesto. Also try pesto pasta
for dinner. Yumyum!
riz
CHESAPEAKE, VA USA 11/09/00
Just returned from Italy. Never thought much of Rick's restaurants but
he has some winners in Italy. In Assisi, La Pallotta was outstanding.
They have a 27,000 lire menu with an outstanding veal selection. Also
in Rome, Ristorante da Giovanni has a 26,000 lire menu which includes
wine and an outstanding veal dish. Both of the restaurants were packed
with locals which is usually a sign that the food is good.
Gerald Caillouet <gjccpa@aol.com>
Brusly, LA USA 11/07/00
My husband and I stumbled upon a wonderful restaurant in Siena during
our recent three-week trip to Italy. It's off the Via Banchi di Sopra,
called Trattoria di Bacco. It's truly a find. Their pasta alla bolognese
is to die for. If you're walking down Banchi di Sopra toward the cathedral,
look off the side streets to your right -- it's on one of those. We liked
it so much we ate there twice. We also loved Rick's rec in Siena, Antico
Osteria da Divo for a totally excellent splurge meal in incredible surroundings.
marjorie <cauchemar@cfl.rr.com>
USA 10/29/00
I agree with Rob from NY (posted 06/02/00): Ristorante Nello La Taverna, Via dei Porrioni 28, tel. 0577 289043, just off Il Campo, is one of the best. We had gnocchi with bolognese sauce and the gnocchi was to die for! They melt in your mouth! Also had great wine and deserts (puff pastry stuffed with ice cream and hot chocolate sauce). He is very friendly and the atmosphere is charming. Check out their web site at http://space.tin.it/cucina/simofer. Closed on Sundays.
In Florence, we had dinner at Trattoria Il Messere, Via Guelfa, 98/r, near Mercado Central, tel. 055 471967. A small and cozy place, it had the best steak, a special menu item topped with a huge portabello mushroom. Owner and host Antonino is great! Closed on Tuesdays.
We missed Il Frantoio in Rome entirely. Couldn't find the place as it was fairly new. Most locals have not heard of the place when we asked for directions.
In Portovenere, an Italian Riviera town near La Spezia, we had pasta at Taverna del Corsaro. They had great pesto pasta; highly recommend trying it! Chef Paolo Bercini and his servers couldn't be nicer.
Wine was very good everywhere we went, and especially when it is much
cheaper there! Can't have pasta without some wine!
L. Iverson <iversted@aol.com>
Mill Valley, CA USA 10/28/00
In Rome, close to the Oceania Hotel on Via del Boccaccio, is a delightful
small family-run restaurant called Hostaria Romana. Delicious antipasti,
wine, risotto, pasta--all served quickly and with pleasure. As the only
American customers, we were included in an Italian family celebration,
and given extra service--a heartwarming experience. It is just off the
Via Rasella and walkable from Piazza Barberini.
Portia Dean <portia_d@hotmail.com>
Interlochen, , MI USA 10/27/00
Just returned from a few days in Rapallo and Cinque Terre. A half litre
of house wine in many restaurants cost just 6,000 Lire...about US$2.25.
What a delightful bargain, with full meals available for about $17. Not
everything needs to be expensive to be enjoyed.
reindeerflame
Elk Grove, CA USA 10/24/00
Thanks to everyone for sharing their favorite places to eat in Italy.
I tracked down a few of the recommended eateries while in the Cinque Terre
and Firenze and had a great trip because of it.
Loved:
Antico Noe, Firenze (take-out sandwiches). Their combinations are incredible! Roasted chicken roll stuffed with ham, porcini mushrooms and spicy red sauce, roasted pork and spinach. They may have a sit-down restaurant next-door.
Il Pallottino Trattoria, Via Isola delle Stinche 1/r, Firenze. This
small, rustic trattoria has wonderfully heartwarming food. They had a
lovely chicken breast with mushroom sauce, insalata mista, pasta. Ate
there twice and would have eaten their a third time, except they were
closed Monday. Located next door to Vivoli Gelateria.
Liked:
Borgo Antico, Piazza S. Spirito 6r, Firenze. My pasta con vongole (L25,000) was enough for two people (beware of a little sand from the clams). My neighbors had huge platters of crudites, salads and pizza.
Giacosa Caffe Pasticceria, Firenze. A pretty cafe for breakfast pastry and coffee on a main shopping street near Via Tornabuona in Firenze. Lots of salespeople from designer shops.
Gelateria Artigianale Porto Dody, Via Roma, Vernazza, Cinque Terre.
Tiny shop but very flavorful gelato.
Finds:
Ristorante Pizzeria Dal, C. So Matteotiti 56/58, Santa Margherita Liguria. Yummy pasta with cuttlefish (sounds funny but actually tasted pretty good). They also serve pizzas from a brick oven. Tablecloths inside and all; although outside is not fancy.
Orient Express, Via Fiori Chiari 8, Brera District, Milano. Tables outside
in the street are great for people-watching. Inside, the back dining room
is a model of a car from the Orient Express! Ask the waiter to make a
dessert taster plate. Prices are moderate to high. Reservations recommended.
Not so good:
L'Alta Marea, Via Roma 54, Monterosso, Cinque Terre. Trofie with scampi did not have much flavor or seasoning. Trofie is a very dense pasta, too, that was a little too heavy for my taste.
Gambero Rosso, Vernazza, Cinque Terre. The location is the best part
of this restaurant. You're right by the beach area. Pasta I tried was
only okay.
Over-hyped:
Vivoli Gelateria, Firenze. They had many flavors but I don't believe
that they're the best. Small tables inside the shop are nice to sit at.
Joanna
San Francisco, CA USA 10/16/00
We just found 2 excellent eating establishments in Italy which we recommend
for good food and value.
In Florence: Antico Restorante IL SASSO di DANTE in Piazza delle Pallottole,
6r (al Duomo) Tel 055282113.
In Santa Margherita Ligure: Trattoria NOEMI, Via S.Bernardo 3 - Tel 0185/285394
Eric Edgar <eedgar@istar.ca>
Waverley, NS Canada 10/15/00
I read Rick's guide for some great places even though this was my sixth
trip to Italy and I speak fairly fluent Italian. Anyway, Rick suggested
a restaurant in the Oltrarno in Florence. This place was one of the best
places we ate in Italy and for not a lot of lire. The place was called
Bippo or something like that. It is located 30 seconds from the Ponte
Vecchio. I told the owner how great it was and that I would email Rick
Steves to concur with his opinion. This man was so excited that he shook
my hand as if it were a pump handle and he gave me a bottle of his wine
free. I had pappardelle with sauce made from cinghialle (wild boar). It
was fantastic. I would highly recommend this place.
R. Butera <RBCIAO@aol.com>
Pa USA 10/12/00
I thought the best gelato outside of Florence was in Assisi near the
Piazza del Commune. If the municipal building is on your right, the gelateria
that is on the corner of the piazza that is at about 11:00 has the very
best vanilla gelato.
KM <kmcfall@kera.org>
Dallas, TX USA 10/12/00
In the Veneto region including Venice, a delicious and interesting specialty are the dishes with a sauce made from squid or cuttlefish ink (something like "sepie al neri"). It is better than it sounds. It comes with risotto or polenta; we tried the latter and it was wonderful. Most restaurants in Venice serve it.
The characteristic salt cod dish ("baccala") found in restaurants and
bars had a very strong fish flavor but was fun to try.
Kevin <kevin.torres@tetratech.com>
El Cerrito, CA USA 10/11/00
Mouthwatering Italy indeed! Having just returned from 4 weeks of touring
around Italy, and having taken several recommendations off this forum,
I wanted to pass along a few of our highlights/comments.
1) As Eric from Chicago noted, I found Il Frantoio to be good, but certainly
not the best food of our trip. Francesco's enthusiasm was the best part
of the meal and I do not regret having gone there.
2) Whoever it was that recommended Bistro del Ritorno in Bellagio - grazie
mille! That was a highlight of our trip. The BEST tomato soup of my life,
and the best pasta alla carbonara of the trip (and I am an expert on that!).
3) Although not on Rick's itineraries, we found the food around Barolo
in Piedmonte to be the best of the trip. La Cantinetta in Barolo was a
great experience - the food is brought to everyone in the room in courses
at the same time. The ravioli with a whole egg yolk filling and black
truffle sauce is truly unique. The rest of the food was equally well done.
Between Barolo and La Morra is a small hamlet - Annunziata, where we had
an incredible meal at Osteria Veglio. Each course a work of art, great
and friendly service, and a wine list that would be the envy of any serious
Italian wine collector. Brava!
4) Our dinners at Hotel Villa Casallechi, just outside Castellina in Chianti,
were all memorable. The setting is gorgeous, the dining room intimate
and beautiful, staff excellent, great wine list, and above all the food
was fantastic. A little pricier as most hotel restaurants are, but for
a special evening when in Chianti, I highly recommend it. Especially any
pasta dish with porcini sauce.
5) In Sorrento, we had a fantastic evening at Il Buco (the cellar), just
off that piazza with the restaurant in that open-aired frescoed dome.
Giuseppe custom-selected our wines with each course, and was a perfect
match every time. It's fun to let the people who know their wines and
food select them for you. Oh yes, the food was also wonderful.
6) We also did some big-splurge dining evenings as well that were fantastic
in their own right, but we will probably best remember the places mentioned
in this post. We never had an even mediocre meal anywhere in Italy - in
fact, we were never found lacking for praise of everything we tasted!
I rarely found dining to be a bargain per se, but the quality was well
worth every lire. And I cannot leave without praising the wines, which
I did find to be an incredible bargain. We were able to order/buy many
wines that are impossible to find, but in high demand, in the US for a
fraction of what they cost here. Restaurants typically charge Italian
retail prices for their wines - not a 200% markup. And the quality was
remarkable - enjoy them! Oh, one last thing - not a single red checkered
tablecloth anywhere. Buon appetito!
Dale Beckes <dbeckes@attglobal.net>
San Jose, CA USA 10/06/00
Just back from Italy and we followed the recommendations of several posts here to visit Il Frantoio restaurant in Rome.
Our food was pretty good but not even close to the best we had in Rome (or my hometown of Chicago for that matter). We found the menu very limited given that my wife is a vegetarian and only 1 of the 4 first courses and 4 second courses was meatless. We asked about ordering "off of the menu" but choices were still very limited.
Also, though it is only a few blocks from Piazza Popoli, the neighborhood
is not very nice at all. It had a very odd, deserted feeling and was not
very pleasant for overall atmosphere to us.
We also like to go to places where locals eat. We thought this might be
one of those places. But we were at Il Frantoio from 7:30 to 10:30 on
a Friday night. During this time, they had a TOTAL of 4 tables--three
were American couples and 2 local guys. That was it. Makes me wonder if
this place is really as good as advertised. Certainly the owners were
very friendly and wanted our experience to be great. For us, overall,
it was just not as good as some others posted seemed to think.
Eric <eric3@bigfoot.com>
Chicago, IL USA 10/04/00
In Positano Rick's book suggested several restaurants near the water
(Le tre Sorelle, Chez Black, Da Vinci). We found (all 8 of us) that Le
Tre Sorelle and Chez Black were very pricey and filled with tourists.
There was no Da Vinci but there was a Da Vicenza, which was very good
and the owner is really fun. He came out and talked to us then went inside,
rang bells with his staff and sang "Torna a Sorriento". Great stuff.
The BEST restaurant we went to in Positano was Brunos, which is just up
the street from Hotel Sirenuse. The food was beyond great and the prices
were surprisingly low. The staff were very friendly and they even offered
to make our large group a special dinner out of a large Yellowtail that
had been brought in that day.
Glenn Schiavo <gschiavo@earthlink.net>
Campbell, CA USA 10/02/00
See my comments about "Country House Montali" in the Vegetarian Tips
section.
Nigel Beeken <nbeeken@madasafish.com>
Wellingborough, nortants UK 10/01/00
On the outskirts of Bellagio, try La Torretta Ristorante at via Nuova
3. We sat on the porch of the old house, in a tree-shaded courtyard. About
$20 for a pizza and a couple salads, beer and a couple fancy ice cream
desserts.
Mary Rankin
San Anselmo, Calif., USA 09/26/00
If you want a very good cheap meal in Milan (non-cafeteria), try Pizzarito/Pastarito
restaurant (two names for a single restaurant). I had the Spaghetti alla
Carbonara, and for LIT 12,000 it was a great deal. They also have great
pasta dishes as well as pizzas. No "coperto" cover charge but 10 % is
added to the bill.
For snack foods, try the "Pizza Rossa" (pizza with only tomato sauce and
basil). You can also get other pizzas by the square (cut by scissors!).
Note however, prices are quoted in "Etto" or 100 grams, approx 3 1/2 ounces.
For those on a budget, avoid any of the sitdown restaurants in Galeria
Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, they charge a high Coperto, and food twice
the price of any other restaurant in town.
The Ciao restaurant would be a better deal, as well as Spizzico (fast
food pizza).
Josh Hanz <josh_hanz@hotmail.com>
Foster City, CA USA 09/26/00
We just returned from a 2-week vacation in Italy where we sought out
"Mouthwatering Italy"-recommended restaurants whenever we could. Here
are some of our hits and misses:
ROME:
Il Frantoio: We liked this, but are surprised that anyone would call
this the best restaurant in Italy. Granted, we went for lunch and not
dinner, but the green risotto cake (a leftover from the previous night's
dinner, perhaps?) was dry, and the pasta, while good, was certainly what
I would expect for the prices. No doubt the owners are friendly, but check
your bill: they made a costly addition mistake on ours that we had to
catch ourselves.
When it's hot and you're sweating and your sodium reserves are low, try
the McDonalds near the Spanish Steps for the most refreshing patine (french
fries) you'll ever have.
Il Margutta Vegetarian Restaurant: We ate here because the ristorante
on Via Margutta was closed for September. We ordered the price fixe and
were disappointed by the second course, which included two heavily fried
dishes. Despite our efforts, it would have been healthier for us to eat
a fried pork chop. Maybe the mother restaurant is better, but we were
not impressed with this place.
While wandering down a maze of narrow streets, we found a little closet-sized
Pizzeria Rustica that served the best pizza we ate in Italy. We can't
remember the street, but it's south of Vittorio Emanuele around the Piazza
Farnese. The zuchinni pizza was amazing, and the pizza al pomodoro was
like nothing I'd ever had. Steer clear of the calzones, though. Ask a
local where it is, or just follow your nose.
Roma Vecchio: Good food, but expensive, and inattentive waiters. Gnocchi
was excellent, but vegetarians beware: we were served meat, assured it
was "capers and mushrooms."
FLORENCE:
Cibero, Cibero Cibero! We ate there twice and would have eaten again
if it had been open. Eat at the trattoria behind the ristorante for cheaper
but equally excellent food. Ask for the cheesecake and the ricotta mousse
(an appetizer) and the potato-tomato puree. Via de Macci 118.
Gelato Argentino which, despite its name, offers yummy cream tarts, fruit
tarts, and other diet nightmares. Get there early, since I could not figure
out when they officially closed except to tell that it was early. Right
near Cibero Trattoria.
The peer pressure is intense to try the gelato at Vivoli's, but be prepared.
The locals cut in line, the gelato is expensive ($$$) and the cups are
teeny-weeny. Still, though, it's good stuff. Try the pistachio, the chocolato-cafe,
and the raspberry.
BOLOGNA:
Clorofilla. Our first meal in Italy was at this vegetarian restaurant
in the university quarter. The vegetables were the size of small cars
and the freshest I've ever had. Helpful waitstaff and inexpensive prices.
Strada Maggiore 64.
SORRENTO:
Verde Mare. Don't go to this hilltop restaurant expecting friendly service.
Do go expecting good pasta, excellent pizza, and excellent sweet house
wine. The menu also offers American staples like french fries, but stick
with the Italian cuisine and you won't be disappointed. I'm not sure of
the address, but follow Via del Capo up the hill and it's on the left
side as you walk up the hill, about a 10-15 minute walk from the base.
La Minervetta. While the food was good but not great, the view made up
for it and the tuxeoded waiters and red tablecloths made us feel classy
despite the fact that the entire meal cost less than $30 (about 55,000
lire). On Via del Capo on the cliff side. About a 5-minute walk from the
base of the hill.
CAPRI:
Despite reviews of Vivoli's in Florence, the best gelato we had was
in Capri. Not sure of the name or the address, but if you ask someone
to point you in the direction of Carthusia Shop, you'll pass the gelato
place along the way. Sniff out the waffle cones, or look for the woman
making them fresh in front of the window. The coffee gelato was especially
delicious.
General recommendations: With absolutely no exceptions, the house wine
we tried everywhere was very nice. It's true that you get what you pay
for, and definitely splurge once or twice on a Tuscan reserve, but the
house wines are usually locally made, unfiltered (which is a change from
the red wine we get in the U.S.), and very very mild with little tannin.
Very enjoyable.
Melissa Pastrana & Gideon Manning
Chicago, IL USA 09/24/00
My boyfriend and I are now loyal customers of Il Frantoio on Via Flamina
77 (see other's comments below). We went twice on our trip to Rome last
week. Be forewarned, they now close on Sundays (Francesco and Fusae need
a break once and a while!). If you have any time in Rome, do yourself
a favor and eat there!
Karen Dionne
Boston, MA USA 09/19/00
We can also add our names to the list of very satisfied ll Frantoio
diners. Franscesco and Fusae were wonderful hosts and the food was the
best or our stay in Italy. They were surprised to hear that they were
often mentioned on this site. If you plan to visit let them know how you
found them. Exit the train at the Flaminio station and they are just down
the street. Well worth the trip.
michele watson <mdwgjr@hotmail.com>
USA 09/19/00
For anyone going to Orvieto with a car there is a restaurant overlooking
the old town (one mountain over) that is worth the trip. 'Girarrosto del
Buongustaio' is amazing. Pastas homemade, wine list of bottles that never
leave the area, and roasted meats that are wonderful. We have been there
twice over the years and after traveling to many place in Italy this restaurant
is one of my favorites.
barbara <barbara6932@go.com>
nyc, USA 09/18/00
After at least 6 trips to Rome in the last 4 years I've come up with a few restaurants I like in Rome. I've put them on my web site at: http://www.accesscom.com/~arz/travels/rome_restaurants.html.
Giolitti's gelateria seems to always get the big thumbs-up from everyone,
and I agree, but we've found two others that are just as good in their
own way. Al Piccolo Arancia is a fun place to eat, as is Le Grotte. L'Orso
80 (which no one has mentioned here so far) is a truly amazing expereince.
Can't be beat!
Alan Z <alan_zeleznikar@writeme.com>
Long Beach, CA USA 09/12/00
Just returned from 2 weeks in Northern Italy. Followed many of Rick's suggestions, all very accurate. When in Lake Como region go to dinner at Albergo Olivedo in Varenna. A fabulous dinner for about US$20 p/p. Exceptional flavors, view of the lake and served by delightful and efficient Laura. Afterwards stroll the promenade for the end of a perfect evening.
When in the Cinque Terre try the pesto dishes--exceptional and nothing
like I have ever had in the U.S.
Janice
San Ramon, CA. USA 09/08/00
When next in Italy, visit the town of Vasto which lies on the Adriatic
sea just below the city of Pescara, and try the "brodetto di pesce" at
Il Corsaro restaurant. It is a melange of all local fish of the area prepared
in a tomato and garlic sauce and cooked in a terra cotta dish. It is absolutely
fabulous.
angelo norelli <n135@webtv.net>
little river, sc USA 09/02/00
In Sorrento, try Ristorante Pizzeria Correale, on Via Correale, 11/A. If you head towards the main square, just beyond it, make a left on Via Correale and the restaurant is to the right. It is a wonderful, family-run establishment. We were in Sorrento for 3 nights and ate there every night!
The owner was friendly and helpful, as were all the waiters. They always made us feel right at home. One night we did "take-away" and the owner bottled some house wine for us in a water bottle!
We had the best eggplant pizza along with an aspargus risotto to die
for. They also had delicious steaks - one that came with a mushroom-artichoke
cream sauce. All this at outstanding prices. The first night we were there
we ordered all the courses, figuring that the portions must be smallish
according to their prices. Boy, were we ever wrong! The steak was roughly
$7, for a very large filet that was so tender, you didn't need a knife.
The pastas (we wanted to try all of them!) were enough to feed 3 people
quite easily and didn't cost more than $5! This is one place I will return
to again and again! Sorrento was definitely a highlight of our trip!
Lianne M. <lam3948@msn.com>
Monterey, CA USA 08/21/00
in sorrento, "master host" is an inexpensive yet wonderful family restaurant.
the large margherita pizza is about $5, and puts all others to shame.
great pasta and veal options as well
ray asher <rasher1045@aol.com>
chicago, il USA 08/12/00
My thanks to everyone whose wonderful recommendations provided some of the most tasteful memories of this summer's Italian vacation! I'd particularly like to reinforce (or introduce) the following recommendations:
Florence: Antico Noe for delicious freshly-made-to-order sandwiches, served with a smile. Festival del Gelato for a wide selection: try combining lime, pineapple and coconut!
Venice: Bartolomeo's Rosticceria for addictive fried prosciutto and mozzarella sandwiches.
Varenna: Nilus Bar for the best dinner crepe I have ever had: try the crepe prosciutto e fromaggio!
Bellagio: Tony's Wine Cellar--he turns you loose with a glass and lots of wine to sample.
Vernazza: Trattoria del Capitano for pesto pasta and fish dumplings
(I know, but you really ought to try it) with a lovely owner who treated
our entire group of 15 people to complimentary glasses of sciacchetra
wine!
V. Allford
Sunland, CA USA 08/12/00
In Rome, the best place to eat (as mentioned below) is Il Frantoio on
via Flaminia 77. In late June, my parents, Bob and Irene and my wife and
I took earlier recommendations from this board and walked to Il Frantoio
from our hotel. That same evening, Italy defeated The Netherlands in the
Euro 2000 UEFA (soccer) semifinals. Anyway, the food was fantastic, the
hosts, Francesco and Fusae were extremely friendly and entertaining, and
it was the best dining experience by far in all of Italy! During dinner
we were treated to more house wine (as Italy won!) and the street was
buzzing with the locals celebrating, chanting, and flag-waving on scooters.
We also met the kitchen staff and toured the kitchen! To sum it up, this
place is awesome, the food is fantastic, and the owners very friendly
and accommodating! Thanks Francesco and Fusae.
Bob, Irene, Kevin & Leah Carr <kevinleah@transport.com>
Vancouver, WA USA 08/09/00
We found a great "backdoor" restaurant just outside the little Abruzzi
town of San Stefano. The sign outside says "Nel Bosco di Bistorco." A
husband and wife (and darling little girl) welcomed us with open arms.
There were eight of us and they brought out wonderful food for two hours.
Everything right from the region. When we left there were handshakes and
smiles all around (and the bill was only about $17 each). They made our
day. Abruzzi is worth a visit.
K. Ramunno <kramunno@hotmail.com>
Salem, OH USA 08/08/00
We stayed at the Grand Marriott in Milan on Via George Washington just
a short train ride to all the shopping streets. Just down the street there
is a little restaurant called Blue World - nothing special from the outside,
but the food is incredible, from pizza to the specialties of the chef.
The owner, Pasquale, also waits tables, but watches to see if you're enjoying
the food and brings out fresh-baked foccacia bread to nibble on while
you're waiting for your food. An incredible dish is the Zucca di fiore
pasta which is a lite tomato cream sauce over wide noodles with crumbled
sausage and chopped sauteed zucchini flowers...yum. Don't miss this little
treasure of a restaurant if you're in Milan...it's well worth the trip!
Carol B <hulabums@yahoo.com
>
Orland Park, IL USA 08/08/00
Don't leave Rome without eating at Il Frantoio on Via Flaminia. The
food will satisfy your body while the owners satisfy your curiosity about
almost anything (in English). Be sure to try their homemade lemon liquor
for relief from the heat.
Lynrae Frens <jfrens@iserv.net>
Jenison, MI USA 07/30/00
Just returning from Rome. What a great recommendation from Suzanne (May) & Jessica (June)--we ate at a terrific restaurant where we were treated to yummy, savory fresh food and charmed by its owners...Il Frantoio on via Flaminia 77 just off the metro stop Flaminio (near the piazza Poppolo). We went both of our last nights in Rome and found Francesco and his charming wife Fusae great!
Our favorite tastes included the olive oil and wine they make themselves,
along with fabulous bruschetta, homemade fresh pasta, fresh seafood and
of course the after-diner aperitif. Francesco created our meal after listening
to what we both liked to eat and telling us what was fresh from that day's
market trip. Our second night he prepared another sumptuous meal based
on our previous night's request...what a host! Our last night @ Il Frantoio
we met our neighboring table--a fun group of people who were knowledgeable
locals enjoying this friendly atmosphere & good food who shared with us
all the reasons (Il Frantoio) for moving to Rome,Italy...what a yummy
treat! Worth going again & again. (Tel. # 06 320 2397).
Katy & Richard Chung <r.chung@worldnet.att.net>
Long Beach, CA USA 07/25/00
At my friends' at Savona (West Ligure) I tried a delicious white wine,
Pigato, a little bitter and with a very special aroma. The master of the
house told me that many families from this region make wine themselves,
following ancient traditions. They are very proud of it, and the special
flavour of the wine they explain by the unique natural conditions the
vines are growing in: the vines are situated at the rocky terraces of
the Alps which come down to the sea (Alpi Maritime). (When I was searching
internet in Italian for the wines of Ligure and other specialties, I found
this site: www.teloconsiglio.com, and I would suggest it to everybody
who loves Ligure.)
Tania <tanya_idlis@yahoo.com>
Genova, Italy 07/25/00
In Florence try Trat. del Mario near Mercado Centrale and within sight
of "Cafe Groovy" (I'm not kidding). Order bisteca and be hungry. Mine
literally hung off the plate, fed two and left plenty for the bassett
hound who sat at the next table. The zupa di fagioli was good, as was
the wine. You sit with whomever has room at their table. We had Italian
office workers and a hilarious American tour guide. We all stayed too
long, drank too much and then spotted the Cafe Groovy sign on the way
out. Barely made it back to our fun low-cost room at Pension Burchianti
on Via del Giglio off Via Panzani. Lousy lighting in the room but a 14th-century
palace turned pension. Ask for room 8 with the cherubs and column frescoes
on the ceiling. Great service, helped us make other reservations. Good
location near the train and the Duomo.
Martha <mludtke@home.com>
Red Deer, AB Canada 07/24/00
Comments below about the Breeze Inn in Como are right on. A must-not-miss
restaurant on Via Lambrenghia (if I am reading my notes correctly). Service
is spectacular, food is better. Take whatever the owner (the Italian Ralph
Fiennes) recommends. Not cheap, but absolutely worth it.
Martha Ludtke <mludtke@home.com>
Red Deer, AB Canada 07/24/00
While I was staying with a family in the South of Austria we took a
day trip to a small town in Italy called Cividale. It is the quintessential
small Italian town with several churches and a very pleasant river running
right through town. My host family and I had a delicious meal of gnocci
and pizza at la Pizzeria 4's (quatro ssss). The food is good and relatively
inexpensive, served by friendly family members to mostly locals. I don't
know the exact location but it is within one block of the Archeaological
Museum and the Duomo. Please don't pass up this town and the surrounding
villages--they are Italy at its finest!
Andrea <nirvanahoy@hotmail.com>
San Diego, CA USA 07/24/00
Studying in Florence for 6 months (on a student budget) I found the best places to eat cheap and well (although eating well in Italy isn't hard).
For the best sandwiches, Antico Noe is the place to go. They speak English, a few of the people being American themselves, and make sandwiches to your taste for 7.000 lire or less. It's in a little alley right near the Firenze post office.
For 35.000 lire, you can enjoy an authentic Italian meal from antipasta to dolce on a fixed menu at the trattoria right at the bottom of Via Bolognese.
I also found that for just 7 to 10.000 lire you can enjoy a great meal
anywhere in Florence at a rosticceria (located all around Florence) and
choosing among the foods already prepared and then sitting anywhere to
eat it. It's fast food Italian-style.
<bohemia126@aol.com>
NY, NY USA 07/24/00
If you are in Monterosso (Cinque Terre) and want a fabulous meal, I highly recommend La Tortuga, which is located 3-4 minutes from the train station. We ate there twice in three days and had some of the best food of our trip. The restaurant is built into the hill overlooking the water. Make reservations for dinner so that you can you can see the sun fade and the lights come on in all four other villages in the Cinque Terre. It's spectacular and relaxing.
Then, there's the food. The menu constantly changes with the fresh seafood, but if they have pasta in lobster sauce (for 2 persons), order it. It is spectacular! We only ordered one course, as the dish was enormous. Don't mind the "dinner guests," as the neighborhood cats will sit quietly by your table with a pleading look for any morsel you might drop (it's a great way to get rid of fish heads).
Also, lunch is a great deal, with a terrific fixed menu served family-style. The day we ate there they were serving a mouthwatering homemade pasta, grilled veggies and a delicious fresh fish in a delicate fresh tomato sauce.
Do NOT waste your time with the mediocre salad (unless you're craving
boring lettuce) or the not-very-good desserts. In fact, a good way to
finish the meal is to take a 5-minute walk to the Enteco Internazionale
for a late-night tasting of the Cinque Terra's special Sciacchetrà (a
heavenly white wine traditionally served by families at weddings, holidays
and other special events) and homemade almond biscotti. Plus, you can
buy a bottle for home for around $10-12 (of course, I couldn't bring the
weather, smells and people home with me, too).
Heather <chicago_heather@hotmail.com>
Chicago, IL USA 07/10/00
Some recommendations and disagreements with Rick's comments:
At Trattoria Milanese in Milan, we saw no "surly waiters." Our waiter was a very kind young man who took wonderful care of us and made some perfect recommendations.
The only restaurant we did not care for was Vecchia Varenna in Rick's favorite Como destination. We found the owner haughty, the service demeaning, and the food average.
We found a wonderful treasure in the city of Como, the Breeze Inn. Don't
let the name fool you. This is one of the best dining experiences my wife
and I have had anywhere in the world. It's buried in the back streets
beyond the Duomo and recommended by our hotel. We had a fantastic dinner
of seafood specialties, great service from the chef/owner Luciano, not
another American voice in the place, and the best wine list and expertise
we saw in Italy. Ask your hotel to make a reservation if you stay in Como.
Bob Treadway <bwtreadway@mindspring.com>
Littleton, CO USA 07/08/00
The Autogrille restaurants along the highways in Italy are excellenet
places to stop for meals. It's Italian "fast food." You can get Nicoise
salads, bread, sauteed greens, fresh fish, pasta, beer, wine on tap. You
can also shop for meats, cheeses, cookies, candies, magazines, etc. It's
very reasonably priced and fast. I wish America would adopt these eateries.
Sara
Butler, PA USA 06/22/00
A wonderful new book with dining and wine tasting tips: "A Summer in
Tuscany." The Today Show featured it in the spring as the best way to
rent a villa. We were able to order it at either barnesnoble.com or amazon--it
is at all the online locations. Buon appettito!
<Giardino123>
NY, NY USA 06/19/00
Don't miss the opportunity to savour the gelato in Vernazza (Cinque Terre). The GELATERIA ARTIGIANALE PORTO DODY (the one in fron of the Farmacia - about 50 meters on the right coming down from the train station) has the B-E-S-T ice cream ever! Not only are the ingrediants more than fresh (whole milk, real fruit - especially the lemons grown locally), but the gelato is made with a passion that is hard to come by these days. Unusual flavours to try are: limoncello, mango, crema vernazza and tartufo. Don't worry about the digestion or the calories: "This is not junk food," I was told by "Pino" the genius ice-cream maker.
Plus, while you wait you can look at the gelateria's exhibition of paintings by Anna Russo (a painter from La Spezia), all of which are for sale. They are mostly of the surrounding country and the colours are very warm.
This place has the best vibrations ever. The music is very cool. And
the guys behind the gelato counter - Dody and Valentino - are very sweet,
and cute too!
toogoodtobetrue <soldaini_silvana@jpmorgan.com>
MILANO, ITALY 06/15/00
In Florence there is a Trattoria Cibreo behind the resturant of the
same name. It was the best meal we had in Italy. The food is exactly the
same as the resturant's but much less expensive. The Trattoria opens at
7pm for dinner but people - including us - arrived at 6:40pm and were
seated right away. By 7:20 there was a line out the door! They do not
accept credit cards. It was just wonderful and the waitresses will help
you get through the menu - also so will Rick's Italian language book.
The tables are right next to each other so you will be dining next to
locals - was a great evening!
Matt Midcap <memidcap@aol.com>
Columbia, SC USA 06/14/00
For all of us who miss Italian "trofie" pasta, I found 3 sites. Here they are...enjoy!
http://www.giovanni.nl/mercato/pasta/pasta6.htm
http://www.tonytere.com/invito-en.html
http://www.viavenetoimports.com/Pages/Home.htm
Hasschen
USA 06/13/00
On our way from San Gimignano to Montalcino, my wife stumbled on a terrific restaurant. It is located 1.2 km off the highway, on a hilltop with a spectacular view. It is called Ristorante Di Paggio Antico. We were treated to a seven-course meal over a three-hour period. Each course was exceptional. Our favorite was the goose liver pate under a reduced white wine sauce and homemade strawberry gelatin. The wine was great too. One caveat -- anticipate a L200,000 bill, but well worth every lire. For reservations, the number is 0577 849200.
Also, if you get the chance stay at an agriturismo. We stayed at two
and thoroughly enjoyed the experiences. There's nothing like dining on
excellently prepared local food with the family.
Jim Bryan <highnooner
@mindspring.com>
Raleigh, NC USA 06/11/00
We had a superb meal in Florence, across the River in the Oltrarno area
- a place called (I believe) al Borgo Antico. Wonderful, sunny, delicious
lunch outdoors with tasty fresh seafood and fabulous pasta. It's just
down the street from the Pensione Sorrelle Bandini. Go. Eat. Smile!
Steve Carpenter <stevio55@earthlink.net>
foofer, USA 06/10/00
When in Positano, don't eat at La Cambusa...We followed a recommendation
posted on this website and were very disappointed. They seat all of the
Americans together and "made fun" of them to the Italians without their
knowledge. This was our 2nd night in Italy, and we were very disappointed.
workwithme
Baltimore, MD USA 06/06/00
The best red wine in the whole world is made by the farmers in Italy!
Not only is it cheap (we bought a 5-liter bottle in a basket on our way
to Trieste for $12), but you never get a HEADACHE! They do not put preservatives
or additives in their house wine. We brought a liter bottle home and tried
it on a friend who always gets a headache from wine in the US irregardless
of how expensive it is...THREE glasses later, no headache! Bella!
B. Moschet <gourmetlink@nordicware.com>
Chanhassen, MN USA 06/04/00
In Rome, with your back to the Trevi Fountain and facing the Trevi Fountain
cafe, go to the right of the cafe and there is "pizza." It's great for
a quick lunch or snack on the run, with a large variety of unusual topped
and delicious pizza by the gram.
elaine
Tampa, Fl USA 06/03/00
Just returned from a great Italy trip. The best restuarant I ate in
was in Siena, and not listed in Rick Steves' book: Ristorante Nello La
Taverna. It's at Via dei Porrioni 28, just off Il Campo. The food is sensational,
the people are super friendly, and the wines outstanding. Don't miss it.
Rob
New York, NY USA 06/02/00
In Florence, at Trattoria Za Za ( Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26r), the soups, grilled sausage, pasta, antipasti were all great. A small place where you get to know the people eating next to you.
In Monterosso al Mare (5 Terre), try Ristorante L'Alta Marea (Via Roma,
54). It was a recommendation from the Villa Steno. The trofiette pasta
was great, with pesto or pomadoro sauce (very flavorful). The fish and
seafood were very tasty.
Gregory Slama <g.slama@gte.net>
Santa Clara, CA USA 06/01/00
When in Rome, do youself a favor and have lunch or dinner at Il Frantoio. I followed Jessica's recommendation below, and had the best meal of my trip. The food was fresh from the market and expertly prepared, right down to the olive oil that they press themselves--liquid sunshine. The menu suggestions change daily, depending upon what looked best at the market that morning. If you don't see anything on the handwritten menu that appeals to you, however, don't worry - just give them an idea of what you'd like and let them surprise you - you won't be disappointed!
The best part about the place are its owners, however - Francesco and
his lovely wife Fusae treat you like family. They speak perfect English,
having spent the last 30 years in San Francisco. They opened the restaurant
in Rome just two months ago, but from what we saw they already have a
loyal following of locals - you may want to call ahead (06 320 2397).
Easy to get to - get off at subway stop Flaminio (take the Via Flaminia
exit - there are several) and walk about 100 yards to number 77 Via Flaminia.
Tables available both inside and outside. They are open 7 days a week.
Worth the trip!
Suzanne <suzanne.fradette@fr.pwcglobal.com>
Paris, France 06/01/00
The pesto we bought in the grocery store in the middle of Vernazza and ate on the breakwater smeared on some focaccia was the highlight of our trip to Italy. We also had some lovely meals in Monterosso at Restorante Moretto and Belvarare, both in the old part of town.
In Venice our best meal was lunch at Alla Maddalena (Rio Terra della Maddalena) after we toured the Jewish Ghetto. They had a lovely variety of sandwiches on soft white bread (aparagus and egg/roasted pepper/smoked salmon and egg/anchovy). We tried to go back the following day, but they were closed on Saturday, although their hours are listed as being open Monday-Sat. Wonderful cappucino, too.
We made reservations more than 2 weeks ahead at Osteria da Fiore (Calle del Scaleter). To get there we walked through alleyways we would never have dared to pass through in any city in the US. The atmosphere was elegant and the food very good with some courses close to ethereal, but the meal was ruined by the horrible amount of smoke in the room. The experience was definitely not worth it for the price. Al Covo, another splurge, was wonderful (we made sure to sit outside and had no problems with the smoke).
In Florence we ate at Palle D'Oro (ViaSant' Antonino) twice. Wonderful
ribollita, good prices and they open at 6:30 for dinner! Our waitress
at Antichi Cancelli (Via Faenza) was a kick and made our very good meal
there most memorable.
s garber
clackamas, OR USA 05/29/00
My wife and I just returned yesterday from Italy. The best restaurant
(and we ate at many) was Parma Rotta in Parma. Great homemade pastas and
nothing like anything else in the world...
beagle47@aol.com <beagle47@aol.com>
Fresno, Ca USA 05/29/00
We just returned from 15 days in Italy using Rick's book. Best fresh pasta
dishes at Ristorante Giandino in Santa Margherita at Piazza S. Bernando
6, only a block from Hotel Fasce; also great service and charming dining
room. Returned a second visit and had best pizza of the trip! In Vernazza,
had wonderful lasagna w/pesto at Franco's "La Torre"; other tables were
raving over mussels marinara. Service somewhat disorganized, but food
and world-class view won out. Also had stuffed accuighe, a laocal specialty.
Classiest dinner in Vernazza was ordering the elaborate seafood appetizer
platter for two and a bottle of local white wine at Gambero Rosso, watching
the sunset and the last boats of the evening out on the water: truly a
world class setting!
Mr. and Mrs. John M. Sykes <rarjms@aol.com>
Arlington, Tx USA 05/21/00
After living in Florence for 2 years I must say that there about 10
places with better gelato than Vivoli. Try some of the smaller gelaterias
for for some great homemade gelato and a much better value. Tuscan bread
is not salted because their food is--heavily. Ask for pane pugliese for
a great salted bread or pannini al latte for soft dinner rolls at the
bakery. The "boiled meat" at Nerbone in the mercato centrale is lampredotto
(boiled cow's intesines) a local specialty, near and dear to the heart
of many a Florentine. And yes, the sauce is delicious. For a great snack
the friggitoria at the corner of via san antonino and via dell' ariento
has some wonder ful fried snacks. Mele fritte, frittelle di riso and coccoli
(little fried flour balls) and the polenta are just some of the fabulous
treats.
sarah
florence, italy 05/19/00
I just got back from Rome and wanted to bring your attention to a FANTASTIC
little family-run restaurant off the beaten path. It doesn't even have
a published menu-- they just make it up day-to-day depending on what they
can buy fresh from the market in the morning. It's not far from Piazza
de Popolo. It's called, "Il Frantoio" it's on Via Flaminia 77. Comes highly
recommended.
Jessica
Blue Bell, PA USA 05/18/00
Carbonara restaurant in the Campo di Fiori in Rome is excellent!! Their
buffet antipasto selection was scrumptious with a great selection.
USA 05/16/00
Rome: Avoid La Fontanella Sistina, Via Sistina. 151. unless you like
to be over-charged for routine food and mis-treated by haughty waiters.
Do go to al Piccolo Arancio for fun service,wonderful food and decent
prices. Enjoy!
Lillian McMullin <lhmcmull@colby.edu>
Waterville 04901 , ME USA 05/06/00
I would suggest Faith Willinger's "Eating In Italy" (only Northern).
I still dream about the gelato, try the fragola or melone! Venice, I had
heard, was not known for great food. It must depend on where you go, because
we are extremely discriminating, and we thought the food here was excellent!
The pastries, marzipan, and artichokes were wonderful. Trattoria San Trovaso
(mostly locals), was superb, reservations are helpful. The fabulous dishes
we had were zuppa di verdura, spaghetti with clam sauce, veal piccata
with lemon, and grilled eggplant. Trattoria Alla Madonna was also excellent
(all locals), the zuppa di pesce was to die for! Ai Gondolieri also was
excellent, especially the steak with mushrooms and wine sauce, but was
more expensive. The first and third are near the Accademia, the second
near Rialto Bridge (surprisingly). Cinque Terre with its scenic cliff
views and small alleys was wonderful. I would stay in Vernazza (and did)
or Manarola. Riomaggiore was our least favorite. Vernazza has the best
food. Trattoria Gianni Franzi was delicious, the zuppa di vongole was
to die for, also excellent was the acciughe and grana. They also had the
best homemade sciacchetra in the area. At Trattoria da Sandro everything
was also excellent, we had the minestrone alla genovese col pesto, pansoti
con salsa di noce, and acciughe alla vernazzia. Vernazza had the 2nd best
gelato in Italy (the one across from the Pharmacia). The man is very sweet,
and makes excellent amarena and crema di vernazza! Trattoria Ciak (La
Lampara) in Monterrosso was excellent, the spaghetti del mar was delicious
and huge (one enough for a meal for two). The foccacia and farinata in
Monterrosso were also very good. Manarola's best restaurant is by the
train station, called Aristide, great food, only Italians. I had read
a recommendation for a hotel found on the internet, with a breath taking
view, Il Nido, perched above Sorrento. The rooms were a nice size and
clean; ask for a balcony con vista sul mare. It was truly amazing, the
best place we stayed, with a 180 degrees view of the ocean, Napoli, and
Mt. Vesuvius, and with nice people running it. It was smart to stay above
the very crowded town. Il Nido is very quiet and peaceful, for only $65
a night for two with a bath. There was a good local restaurant in the
town of Capri, just below the main square and shopping street, Pizzeria
Verginiell (45 min walk up from the harbor). Also another good restaurant
in Positano on the water, La Cambusa , outside tables facing the beach:
we had alice, carpaccio of carciofi with grana, rucola, and balsamic vinegar,
and rigatoni with eggplant and a linguini puttanesca. All was good. Positano
was worth doing, it is a cute town, but with a steep hike down. The Amalfi
coast drive there was spectacular, sit on the right side of the bus (board
at the back of bus for quicker access). In Rome we had the most amazing
gelato in all of Italy at Giolitti's!! It is 2 blocks north of the Pantheon,
on via uffici del vicario, 066991243. The tiramisu, champagne, mela verde,
and amaretto were to die for!!! All the locals know it. Milan had the
3rd best gelato in Italy at Odeon (in the book). The best food we had
there was at Pizzeria Iris, on via Dante, the frutti di mare risotto was
good. Enjoy!!!
Karen
San Jose, CA USA 04/29/00
In Monterosso, Italia (Cinque Terre) is a wondeful bar called Bar Il
Casello run by Bacco and Daniel. The bar is located in the old part of
town just next to the beach. There are places to sit outside with a view
of the sea. Inside there is a small bar with a few tables on the first
floor. Upstairs, many more tables and a lovely terrace. Be careful not
to be lured out onto the terrace by the friendly owner named Bacco. The
beer is good, there are delicious sandwiches and salads. Bar Il Casello
is also the first bar in Monterosso with public internet access. One last
note: The music played overhead at Bar il Casello is really COOL!
Lola <lisajean70@hotmail.com>
Boston, MA USA 04/27/00
We had seen 2 write-ups of Eau d'Vive in Rome. Run by Belgian nuns who
stop serving at 10pm for prayer and on weekends do the ocassional ballet
of bible stories. And the food was supposed to be excellent, but a splurge.
Well, it was expensive, and a bit below average. The nuns were very nice.
The atmosphere sub-par. All in all a disappointment. However, our other
splurge meal in Amalfi at La Caravella where we were given tastings of
other dishes between the dishes we ordered. (Even dessert tasting after
dessert!) Beautiful setting, cordial waitstaff and the most sublime food
anywhere. But definitely not cheap! (200,000 lira for a full meal -- appetizer,
2 courses, a bottle of wine and dessert for two.) Highly recommended for
a splurge!
Lauri Hart <lhart@zott.com>
Menlo Park, CA USA 04/24/00
I have to disagree with Rick about his write up on Pensionne Sorrisso's
food in Vernazza in Cinque Terre. I had dinner the first night because
I was exhausted and it was very good. On the third night I decided to
try it again and for $5.00 I had Pasta with fruit de la mere, fresh grilled
fish with salad and dessert-Zuppa de Anglaise-their form of Tiramissu.
I thought I had gone to heaven. I had checked out the prices in Vernazza
and they are definitely taking advantage of the tourists and Rick's write-up
about the town in Cinque Terre. Also if you get to Milan and the Galleria,
next to Mcdonald's is a delicious gelateria with Licorice gelato.
Judith <Msobserver@aol.com>
Dallas, Tx USA 04/20/00
P.S. one more good restaurant in Rome, but I can't remember the name.
If you can find the Hotel Alimandi on the map in Rick's book, turn left
onto Via Tunisi and walk about two blocks down past the laundromat(open
24 hrs). The restaurant is right on the corner of Tunisi. It is only open
for lunch but is very good. Family owned and pictures on the wall of the
restaurant over the past 20-30 years. And um, the wine was, um,really
good, too.(See previous post). And since the subject of wine came up,
in Orvieto, have some wine tasting at the Cantina Foresi right in the
piazza del duomo. They actually let me down into the old etruscan cave
where they let me pound on the barrels(just like Rick!), and I bought
2 bottles of wine nicely packed, that I carted home(Orvieto Classico-Abboccato)and
enjoyed recently. And I'm not much of a wine drinker, really...
Fresno, ca USA 04/12/00
In Venice, I had an excellent meal at Antica Sacrestia, which apparently
was part of a monastery or church (there are what is supposed to be old
frescoes on the wall relating to the monk's quarters). I don't know how
much of that is true, but the food was well priced and delicious, with
some tourists but also a lot of locals. I peeled off the wine label(souvenir)so
the address is ss. Filippo e Giacomo 4442. If I remember correctly you
need to follow the street to the left of the Basilica in the piazza San
Marco, make a left after you go over the 1st bridge and veer off to the
right. But then again we're talking Venice and I was easily turned around.
Although I did not try it, just before you cross over that 1st bridge,
on the right(step down)was a place absolutely teeming with locals, mostly
men, that had all types of seafood being served. This could probably be
included on the "pub crawl". And I also ate at the Gatto Nero in Sorrento,
good food reasonably priced. In Florence try Trattoria Antichi Cancelli
at Via Faenza 73r(that wine label thing-I did not drink my way through
Italy, I swear). If your standing at the entrance to the train station,
go out, turn left on via Nazionale and 1st right on Faenza about halfway
down on the right, if you reach the Duomo you've gone too far. About a
dozen tables, locals standing in line at the door. Menu turistico a good
deal and food was very good.
Fresno, ca USA 04/12/00
In Venice try the restaurant called "La Vedova". Its a locals restaurant
and you can ask any Venetian how to get there. I recomend the Squid in
its own ink with polenta, its a Venetian specialty that sounds horrible
but is actually quite good. Its best to make a reservation here though
as it is very popular with the locals. Otherwise for the best food in
Venice try the student district where the food is excellent and the prices
cheap. Do not eat the food in and around the Rialto or Piazza San Marco.
I lived in an apartment right next to the Rialto for a year and I can
tell you from experience that the food is terrible and extremely expensive.
If you have to get something in these areas try the sandwiches (pannini)
which are usually good. If you like pastries there is a pasticeria in
Venice that makes the BEST pastries I have ever eaten called Tonnolo.
Finally if you want to try a unique and delicious Venetian drink go to
a rather small stand on the side of the Rialto bridge where the stalls
are set up with wares for sale, the stand is tucked into a small square
to the right of the bridge as you exit, after the flower stand and the
fruit stand but before the merchants stalls (If you see the Disney store
and McDonalds you are on the wrong side!) and ask the bartender who is
a character and worth a trip in itself for a "bomba". This drink is impossible
to replicate even though he will tell you whats in it because only he
seems to be able to get the exact quantity of each ingredient right every
time. Excellent drink! Lastly and most importantly, although Venice can
seem to be an intimidating city, easy to get lost in, it is also one of
the most beautiful and safest in the world and is actually very small
so don't be afraid to wander. See parts of the city that most tourists
never encounter and you will find some of the best restaurants as well
as some of the most beautiful and hidden sights in Venice.
Hannah <hriordan@cats.ucsc.edu>
Santa Cruz, CA. USA 04/07/00
If you want something different try the Chines rest. called LON FON
on Via Firenze in Rome, a definite and a Rick's suggestion. Another place
that we really liked was in Sorrento called GATTO NERO, we went back twice.
Food was great and service wonderful, really small place about 5 tables.
And whenever you have a chance, have gelato!!!
Italian Fan
NH USA 04/06/00
In Rome, just around the corner from the Fontana Di Trevi, is the Ristorante
Grande Mondo. I liked it a lot. The owner served us, and it was a very
friendly experience. Good food! If you're facing the Fontana di Trevi,
take the street that goes off to the right of the fountain, and it'll
come up pretty quickly on your right. If you hit a stop light, you've
gone too far. Great Lasagne and gelato.
A. Horn
CA USA 03/31/00
Oscari Restaurante in Santa Maria Tibernia in the far reaches of Umbria/Tuscany.
Great Gnocchi and bruschetta varieties and porcini's in season. The ride
up the mountain is worth it! ...and then there was Mimiis in downtown
Mercantale--no menu-just let her (Mimi) feed you. Quiet, homey, felt like
being at Gramma's, again: sit so you can see the work going on in the
kitchen--all homemade and good.
jeff holmes <jeff.holmes@compaq.com>
hollis, nh USA 03/30/00
Aside from the eating euphoria of Italy, the next best Italian cooking
is to make it yourself. In the middle of a two week train trek around
Europe I took a one day cooking class in Florence, Italy with Judy Witts,
and it was absolutely perfect! Due to it being the off season I was Judy's
only student, which was a great blessing. We toured the Market, sampled
food and wine, she allowed me to choose what I wanted to cook (Timballo
and she gave me a great chicken recipe and a copy of her cookbook), she
kept the recipes simple, practical and delicious, and it was "hands on"
in preparing the meal. From my reasearch most cooking schools require
taking at least three classes, the one day classes are just demonstrations,
and the cost is high. Judy's classes fits the solo traveler or the traveler(s)
who have a million things to do or places to see, but would like to leave
the standard museum route indulge in a day of Diva Style Cooking. Judy
can be reached at DivinaCucina.com, or type her name into the Yahoo Search
Engine and it will take you to her web site. Nothing like bringing Italy
Home!
Denise Simpson <psalm52@hotmail.com>
Washington, D.C. USA 03/30/00
The best restaurant just outside Assisi, past CarpeDiem resort, about
8 km, up the mtn, on the left was Ristorante Il Pino. Tel.075.802102-tel.
075.8064484. The food and wine was amazing with the setting of a huge
fireplace where they also grilled their meat. The owner, Livia was very
sweet and even the locals recommended this wonderful place..
Cariann <cariannm@hotmail.com>
Laramie, WY USA 03/28/00
If you are in Rome, Italy. Eat at Don Francesco's, off of Piazza Navona.
It's where are the locals eat, and the food is great, like the prices.
I lived in Italy for a month and ate there almost every day. If you are
alone, get a seat in the back and you'll end up meeting almost all of
the locals who stop in for a quick bite to eat (they will probably share
a table with you). Buon Vacanze! -Omid
Omid <bello@usa.com>
Orinda, CA USA 03/20/00
All you have to do is find a good hole-in-the-wall eatery frequented
by locals only a few blocks away from the tourist areas. They're all over.
No need for a guidebook. And if you return to that same place two or three
times more, the meals and the service improve significantly!
A.Aubert
Lafayette, LA USA 03/17/00
In Florence we had the dinner of our 10-day Italian vacation at a restuarant
that was more like a home than a restuarant. Adele Vicini, the owner,
seated us, took our order (not sure about the combination on the menu...no
problem to switch it around), prepared and served our dinner. Every dinner
we had in Italy was worthy of doing again, but this was the best. We highly
recommend Maximilian Ristorante on Via Alfani, #10 (not far from the Academy).
Craig & Terry Barton <bartoncat@cs.com>
Webster Groves, MO USA 03/12/00
This is the place to eat figs. Macadonian figs are not available in
US. You'll never get them again. Even if you don't eat figs, eat these,
they're wonderful.
Paula Carlisle <markcarlisle@earthlink.net>
Flower Mound, TX USA 03/11/00
A San Francisco chef told me about a new electronic book about eating
in Tuscany. It also covers a great summer eating festa in Venice which
is not known to Americans, and the inside (cheapest and best) places to
eat in Florence, also Umbria, etc., also some fun recipes and great advice
on tipping and ordering and other totally inside advice. I think I have
read it three times so far but the great thing is that it's only $3 or
$4 to download it and you can just print out and take along the pages
you want! Leaving soon for Italy!!! The address is www.1stbooks.com and
when you get there, just type in "Tuscany" as the subject, I think, and
the "book" comes up. Buon appetito!
RC Stafford <rcsti@aol.com>
San Francisco, CA USA 03/07/00
Just a few linguistic ice cream tips--"gelati" is the plural, so unless
you really want to order "ice creams," ask for some "gelato." Also, don't,
as Rick does, ask for "il piu' bono," thinking it means "the best." It
doesn't. It means "the sexiest." Look at the kid's face when Rick asks
him for his sexiest ice cream in the video. What you want is "il piu'
buono."
Frankie
Orem, UT USA 03/06/00
After a month of wonderful food throughout Italy my memory of the best
meal-- the church festival on Burano, the men of the church caught the
fish in the morning and we ate it at noon!!! We had a wonderful time and
I recommend taking advantage of any unique experiences like this(we've
done it before and never been sorry).
Marilyn <dlarmlar@cs.com>
Benicia, CA USA 03/05/00
One of the best meals we have ever had in Europe was at the Ristorante
Etruria in Volterra in Tuscany. I had Wild Boar in Chocolate Sauce and
it was delicious. Everything was good, but the boar was simply spectacular.
Charles Luther <charlesluther@msn.com>
Katy, TX USA 02/26/00
While in Florence my husband and I stumbled upon a resturant called
ZaZa's. We waited for our table for about 30 minutes. It was filled with
locals, which is why we went, and the food was out of this world! It is
a little pricy, not fancy, noisy and crammed with people. But that is
the great part about the atmosphere. It is about a quarter of a mile from
the Duomo. Go for it!
Brittney Lerner <blerner@outercircle.com>
Chicago, IL USA 02/25/00
We're going to Tuscany this spring and plan to do a lot of hiking. I'm
wondering what the breakfasts are like, since we don't do too well on
caffeine and pastry alone. Any chance of getting protein, or should we
pack our own? Also, we'd like to bring back some wine. Is there a way
to ship it back so you don't have to bring it in your bags?
Linda Swift <lindaswift@mediaone.net>
Ann Arbor, MI USA 02/24/00
My daughter and I had wonderful meals in Italy. Definitely check out
La Spada in Florence. Tel. 055-218757 Via La Spada near Via Del Moro,
near Santa Maria Novella. Outstanding taglioni ala "Natascha" with smoked
salmon sauce - heaven! Roast loin of veal, crusty and delicious with those
fabulous roasted potatoes and broccoli in garlic and olive oil. What a
meal! Also in Florence, La Trattoria La Burrasca for dinner, Nerbone food
stand in the Mercato Centrale (these are Rick's recommendations). In Assisi,
Medio Evo, tortellini in black truffle sauce; atmosphere and great service.
Sylvia Levinson <shlpoet@aol.com>
San Diego, CA USA 02/22/00
my husband and i just returned from rome where we found a fantastic little
restaurant right around the corner from the hotel aberdeen (one of rick's
recommended hotels). la toscannella had the most fantastic food! they
had homemade pasta which you chose yourself, and their menu turistica
(which i thought would be a tourist ripoff) was a fantastic bargain: pasta,
salad or veggie, main dish and gelati for dessert for under $10. not only
was the food great but the waiters were so friendly and sweet. both times
we ate there we were the only patrons (they serve a mainly after-theater
crowd and my husband and i are early birds) and they were so attentive.
we highly recommend this place to anyone staying in rome. you will not
only have a fantastic experience for your tastebuds but for your heart
as well. the address is 53-54 via modena, roma
laura farris <LARVA1234@aol.com>
cliffside park nj, us USA 02/08/00
In Florence, eat at the trattoria behind the famed restaraunt "Cibreo"
for the same food and wine at 1/2 the price. Sit with locals at community
tables and enjoy. Also, try either of the waterfront restaurants in Varenna
on Lake Como. They cost more but the food is incredible. As for Aqua al
Due, I thought it was a bit overrated. Having lived in Florence for 4
months, there are a lot of small trattorias better.
steve <srutz@finearteditions.com>
ft lauderdale, fl USA 02/04/00
Here in the States I absolutely detest yogurt. But when I went to Italy
for 2 months last year, I decided to "be good" and try some. WOW! I don't
know what they do, but their yogurt is delicious! Smooth, creamy...I guess
you could say the culture agrees with me....
Louisa <louisa1964@hotmail.com>
USA 01/22/00
In Florence, I liked Casalinga (a Rick rec), on the other side of the
river. Best homemade food. Also Aqua Al Due near the Bargello....get the
pasta sampler for the first time...excellent! The house wine is $7/bottle.
We also like Sostanza...small local place.
L Holliday <elropoknight@earthlink.net>
san francisco, ca USA 01/19/00
After living in Florence for three months and backpacking across Europe
for a month, I found the most wonderful treat in Florence. Just around
the corner from the Fiddler's Elbow (a great bar--say hello to Dexter)is
Ristorante La Spada, with the best potatoes to go. Sit down for an amazing
lasagna or a number of other items on the menu. Just be sure to try the
potatoes! (Via del Moro 66r--a few steps away from Fiddler's and Santa
Maria Novella)
Tracey Davis <trdavis@arkansas.net>
Searcy, AR USA 01/18/00
Just a "heads up" to all the gelato fans going to Florence during the
month of January: ALL of Rick's gelato recommondations are closed until
after 31 Jan. We knew Vivoli's would be closed, but all of them? We had
to "make due" with what we could find near Piazza della Reppublica...
Amy Gonzalez <anhgonzo@pacbell.net>
Danville, CA USA 01/18/00
The little family restaurant across from the Pantheon is incredible.
Wish I had written down the name--but it is right next to McDs and the
people-watching is incredible.
Gary <grice@kings.k12.ca.us>
Hanford, CA USA 01/13/00
Two blocks from the Colosseum in Rome, we came across a spot near a
tiny fountain, Cafe Gli Anglina. Try the pasta trio, your choice of 3
from the menu (much more interesting than the traditional pasta dishes).
The duck ravioli with orange sauce was a taste treat. Only $10.00 for
the plate, which would feed 2. We went back for more another day, and
found the fennel salad with pears and walnuts ample for two as well. A
quiet oasis in a hot and touristy city.
Italy lover <Moaksmith@aol.com>
Seattle, WA USA 01/03/00