Rick Steves' Europe: Mouthwatering Italy: 2001

Mouthwatering Italy: 2001

When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Italy, what are its favorite taste treats?

Picnic al fresco
Shopping for lunch in the supermarkets of Italy is a delight. We've found beautiful ones in Lucca, Siena, and Sorrento and Taormina, Sicily. There is a small one tucked away in the Piazza Santa Marguerita in Venice. These all have wonderful hams, cheeses, olives, and salads. If a pastry shop is not nearby the packaged cakes and cookies can be found in the food shops made with almond paste and usually have no preservatives. The price of locally made wine is cheap! The cost of these lunches make it easy to find a nice restaurant at dinner time. For more Italian info please visit my Italian site at http://www.geocities.com/nccaterina/. Ciao for now.
Kathleen Citrolo Gwinnett <email>
Burlington, NC USA 12/27/01

Best of my Italian tour
Antica Osteria Da Divo in Siena was one of the top 5 meals I have ever eaten. We salivated on the squash tart antipasto, and drug the meal out over 3 hours. Our most expensive meal ($100.00) and our best. Following the squash I ordered the pigeon meat ravioli, and my companion ordered the lamb ragout with thyme. The presentation was top notch 5-star. As a 2nd dish I got the rack of lamb with almonds. They were placed in small potato baskets rolled in almonds. For dessert we ordered the pyramid thing, blueberry gelato (awesome) and a custard that strangely resembled scrambled eggs (tasted similar as well). The grappa, limoncello, and house red (chianti classico DOTG) were all top notch. On the way out I spoke with the chef. To my disbelief he looked like he was 18. It was a fantastic experience, set in a dug out sandstone cave. The best eats during my travels to Italy.
Travis B <email>
Memphis, TN USA 12/11/01

Restaurant Recommendations
We experienced 'off-season' in Tuscany. While it was enjoyable to have the roads to ourselves, many businesses, wineries and villas were "chiuso per ferie". Many guidebook suggestions were closed. After traveling over an hour to Villa Banfi, Italy's largest winery, to enjoy lunch after Mass at the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo, we found the entire estate locked up tight. More than once we were the only diners in restaurants! We were not served a meal we didn't thoroughly enjoy! A few suggestions:
Greve: Gallo Nero, a friendly, affordable bistro La Loggetina, A new, intimate restaurant, the flavors and colors of Tuscany in the Piazza Matteotti. The owner, Leandro was most accomodating, even selecting music for our nearly private dining room.
Badia in Passignano: Lovely dining room and bottega owned by the Antinori Family located at a restored monestary dating from 1000 AD.
San Gimignano: Ristorante Dorando doesn't disappoint! The pici verdi con pestioli di menta noci peccorino e olio di oliva. Divine! Green pasta 'beehives' with pesto and peccorino...squisito!
Siena: An uncrowded cafe, a table in the sun in Italy's lovliest piazza, the best melanzzana alla parmagiana!
Florence: Ristorante Beatrice, named for Dante's par amour, this elegant yet affordable restaurant is located in the Hotel Cavour and was suggested by our concierge. $80 inclusive of wine and service and the best Bruschetta during our stay! Cantinetta Antinori, so lovely we dined there twice! Risotto con aspargi. Superior wines!
Venice: We visited Ai Gondolieri, Dosoduro at a friend's sugggestion and chose the tasting menu as did most of the dining room. The staff spoke English, French and German to the many diners.
Chris McCormick <email>
Boston, , MA USA 12/08/01

Venice/Cinque Terre highlights
I just got back from Venice/Cinque Terre. We did the pub crawl in Venice for Thanksgiving dinner. Fantastic! At the first place, Do Mori, I had the best meatball I have ever had in my life. Meatball perfection! Do Mori had great atmosphere too. In Cinque Terre there was only one restaurant open each night in each Monterosso and Vernazza (our favorite) but they were good. Great bright-green pasta at Restaurante Giovanni in Vernazza! I recommend having drinks up at the castle in Vernazza to watch the sun set.
Sara <email>
Chicago, IL USA 11/29/01

Assisi, truffles, wild boar
A wonderful place to stay a few miles from Assisi in the Umbrian countryside is Miranda, an Agrituristic Farm, accessible only by car. Reasonable rates, comfortable rooms and outstanding food, fresh from the farm. For example, delicious antipasti, wild boar, chicken, sausage, ham, truffles served in several dishes, wild mushrooms, lasagna, tiramisu, and homemade wine and olive oil-served lovingly, like family. If you speak Italian, call 075802130 + country code. Miranda's son Francisco speaks English and visits the farm on weekends. If English only, make reservations through Francisco at avvfiorelli@hotmail.com.
Judy Green <email>
Jphnstown, CO USA 11/24/01

Varenna and Bologna
We have used Rick Steves' books for many trips. I have never been disappointed. Last summer we stayed in VARENNA at the Villa Cipressi. It was outstanding. Our room overlooked the beautiful lake. Three of us stayed in one room for about $90. The Villa Cipressi restaurant was not mentioned in the book, but the food was fabulous and dinner on the terrace was delightful. It was much better than the Vecchia Varenna, which was mentioned. We are planning to return to Italy in December and would like additional suggestions for Bologna. Keep up the good work.
Lynda Boyer <email>
Bradenton, FL USA 11/18/01

Mouthwatering Italy
We were in Sorrento last September and ate at Vielo Blanco. It was one of our most memorable dinners as the waiters were very friendly and talkative and the pasta with lobster was to die for. They had a van that came to pick us up at our hotel and took us home afterwards as well. We applauded his driving ability on the incredibly curvy streets and he was amused and flattered.
J. Browning <email>
Autusta, GA USA 11/13/01

MY PICK FOR DINING IN FLORENCE
I have a huge website on Rome, Italy (All Roads Lead To Roma) with a section on Florence. In September of this year, my daughter and I had the pleasure of dining at what I think is the BEST restaurant in Florence, Osteria del Porcellino. It is just off the Mercato Nuova where the Boar Fountain is on a small one-block street called via Val di Lamona, 7r. Enzo, the owner, is a delight, as is Maria and also Maurizio, an excellent waiter. Fabulous food, so good that we went there four nights in a row. Their Beef fillet in balsamic vinegar is to die for! Go and have a super good time!
Stuardt-Mikhail Clarke <email>
Oakland, CA USA 11/12/01

Mouthwatering Italy
I want to thank Jim Todd for his 4/25/01 posting about Trattoria Il Caminetto in Florence. We ate there last month and it was as great as Jim said it was. Besides great food at a reasonable price, the staff was wonderful. As for the free drink at the end of the meal, the waiter brought bottles of grappa, dessert wine and lemoncello, so we were able to try all three. When we commented to the owner how good the chianti was, he told us how the wine is made locally and brought us glasses of white wine to try. This was my favorite dining experience in Italy during our vacation.
Karen Snyder <email>
Parsippany, NJ USA 11/11/01

Gelato and YUM!
We found a great Gelati place right in the Piazza Navone in Rome... and there was another one right out side the square as well. Inexpensive and delicious! Our favorite restaurant by far in Rome was the Mongrovia near the Termini train station — fabulous service and food! Rick is absolutely correct in recommending that you should eat away from the touristy areas! We also found a pizza place near the Vatican City which had at least 10 different kinds. You buy it by weight so can taste numerous... my favorite was the eggplant and garlic — who would have thought??
Shellee <email>
Rochester, NY USA 11/09/01

Italy?? YUM!!!
My fiance, who's never been outside of the US (we're going to do something about that-very soon!) often asks me what my favorite thing about Italy is. My automatic response is the FOOD! All I can say is scoop out some more of that hazelnut gelato and I'll be in Heaven! The best gelato I've had came from a huge candy store in Rome- I don't know where it is exactly (we were kinda lost when we found it) but I know I can follow my tastebuds back... They had about 50 different flavors, and they'd pile your cone high with any number of flavors for about the equivelant of $4.

Another frozen favorite of mine came from a street vendor in Capri's main piazza. As soon as you get off the ferry from Sorrento head up to the funicular and you can get some of the best lemon ice in Italy!

After visiting the Vatican I found great joy in an eggplant and cheese sandwhich for lunch that was sold by a street vendor just outside of the "Holy City." It was delicious and at a fair price- and it was GREAT! My final favorite was experienced in a small Mom and Pop restaurant just above Sorrento, although I don't recall the name of the dish. It's a pasta made primarily out of potatoes-gnocchi-add some marinara sauce and yum yum.. irresistable!
Jessica <email>
Kent, OH USA 11/03/01

Trattorias and Pizza
We visited Tusacany in late May 2001, making a villa in Panzano (midway between Florence and Sienna) our base for several day trips to neighboring hill towns, Florence, Pisa, Venice, etc. There's a little Trattoria in Panzano — just off the main road — that had the best food any of us had eaten during the two week trip. It's a good idea to make reservations though, because the locals fill the place by 8. I think the owner sat us because we arrived somewhat early, and he recognized us from some of our lunchtime visits. The patio dining area was most popular, with incredible views of the Italian countryside. In nearby Greve, we discovered the absolute best pizza (after trying several different kinds in various towns). It's very close to the main road — separate from town square that has most of the restaurants and shops. Unfortunately, we didn't discover this place until our last day there. We attempted to prepare a few meals in our villa, but quickly realized that we couldn't duplicate what was readily available all around us (at a very reasonable price).
Casey Bresnahan <email>
Woodland Hills, CA USA 10/28/01

Trattoria near Rome train station
La Reatina is a small trattoria at 17 Via S. Martino della Battiglia (between train station and Castro Pretorio subway stop). Traditional, inexpensive and filled with locals. $15 for three courses and wine. Menu in Italian only. Follow waiter's suggestions or point to whatever looks good on other tables. Closed on Saturday but open on SUNDAY.
Gary Leo <email>
Wauwatosa, WI USA 10/26/01

porchetta panini
The best panini north of Rome in Lazio and Southern Umbria is made from porchetta. Take an entire small pig-200 lbs- bone it, rub inside and out with spices, tie to spit and slow roast. It then gets sliced by the butcher or the mobile lunch wagon on market day. Absolutely delicious and unique.
Paul Vandehey <email>
hoodsport, wa USA 10/21/01

pizza in Roma
Spent 5 days in Rome in June and our best meal was on our first night. We went to Trastevere to "Le Taverna de Mercanti" and had the BEST salmon pizza. It just melted in our mouths. It was such a beautiful outdoor restaurant with so much atmosphere. You must go!
Kathryn <email>
Toronto, CAN 10/10/01

Levanto, Cinque Terra
I saw the Paul Lake message and I completely agree with him...Taverna Garibaldi it's absolutely amazing also for the characteristic local with low lights, wood tables, the local wines and products of the Levanto cooperative (the fantastic olive oil!) Furthermore I suggest trying their ANTIPASTI with Lardo di colonnata (a specialty from the near Tuscany) and the earth and sea tastes.
Gunther Ciapet
Worms — Deutchland, 10/09/01

Two favorites
After a month in oft visited France this past summer, my son & I took the train through Italy for two weeks-a first visit for both of us. I must admit that after traveling by train in France the Italian system leaves something to be desired-like people who can tell one where the seat is :o)
My favorite city-Venice (tourists and all), his-Milan. One favorite in Florence was Baldovino's. The staff was friendly and the food was excellent! In Rome we "stumbled" upon a small restautant while walking from the Trevi fountain in search of a taxi stand on our last evening. The staff was superb — friendly and talkative, the meal inexpensive and I WILL find my way back there. I had the spinach pasta with salmon-mmmmm. I think it was called Il Falchetto on via Labicana. Definitely a delight. The two of us ate, and drank wine for about $30 USD.
The dinner ended with the server bringing us bottles of limoncello, an orange liquer and another that I do not remember-from which to choose a complimentary drink.
Like most travelers to Italy I loved the gelato. I tried some on my first night and thereafter could NOT get through the day without a gelato "fix". Followed Ricks suggestions and must agree that Florence has the best! Can't wait to return.
Carol <email>
Savannah, GA USA 10/05/01

Southern Tuscany's Lure
Wow! I can't stop thinking about my favorite part of Italy: Southern Tuscany in the Maremma region. We stayed in the tiny town of Sovana, the site of literally hundreds of Etruscan tombs, all marvelously intact. The little albergo, "La Taverna Etrusca," offered friendly accommodations and absolutely delicious food. The beef tenderloin in a red wine reduction absolutely melted in our mouths, and the carafe of table wine had a deeper resonance than many $30 bottles of wine you can get back here. It was so inexpensive! Hangovers aside, we arose the following morning at sunrise to soak in "Le Cascatelle," a natural sulfurous waterfall cascading down tufa cliffs in nearby Saturnia. Pure bliss for those in search of beauty and quietude.
Jen Bernard <email>
Portland, OR USA 09/26/01

Best Gelatos?
We tried all of Rick's recommended places and many of our own as we discovered them. In my opinion, the small, unobtrusive Gelateria in the corner of Piazza di Campo dei Fiori had the best gelato in Rome. In Venice, I thought the best was actually the gelato street vendor on Lista di Spagna, across from Hotel Continental (go figure). In Florence, I'd go with Rick's recommendations
Brian Weston <email>
Raleigh, USA 09/26/01

Assisi & Cortona
Eat at TAVERNA DEI CONSOLI in ASSISI!! We found it in it's temporary spot just inside the gate that's next to the Basilica (called "Locanda de xxxx") when we stopped to ask for directions. Owner Moreno showed us where he was mentioned in Rick's book and we went there for dinner that night out of thanks. Boy! It was so good we went back the next night without hesitation. Get the veal steak in wine sauce, pasta in black truffle sauce, ravioli w/walnuts & butter sauce and whatever else he recommends! Chef Stelvio could get a job here in NYC and make the best chefs run for their money. Don't be intimidated if it's empty — eat here! Also, in CORTONA go to TONINO's. If you can, ask for waiter Andrea & he will set you up with the best feast. Arrive early for outside sunset seating. For a half-hour drive, you can stay at their daughter's inn: Alla Corte del Sole in Petrignano. You'l think you died and went to Tuscan heaven when you see the grounds.
Renee Walton <email>
New York, NY USA 09/21/01

Restaurant & Hotel in Florence
Rick's guide for Italy is AWESOME! A great restaurant not to be missed in Florence is Ristorante Bibo. We liked it so much we went twice. Their mussels are fantastic, their sole is great, and their pastas are also very good. On hotels, we stayed in the annex in the Hotel Bellettini which was fantastic (and I am pickier than most).
Audra Branstad <email>
Chicago, IL USA 09/16/01

Echoing what a tour guide from Roma says here, Blue Ice definitely has the best gelato in Rome (the best strawberry I have ever had). We've done "gelato crawls" on the past two trips and Blue Ice is the hands down winner. The lines also testify to it's popularity. I agree with Rick's book though, Tre Scalini is the best for Cioccolato (chocolate) — stunning is an understatement. There other flavors are disappointing, however, compared to Blue Ice. I hope Rick puts Blue Ice in his next update of his Rome guidebook. Gelato lovers should not miss this place. My suggestion, go to Tre Scalini, get a cone/cup of chocolate, go around the corner to Blue Ice and get your second flavor and enjoy both — decadance!!
Alisa <email>
Chicago, IL USA 09/09/01

Just back yesterday from a 7 day trip to Italy. In reference to the just-posted message about eating around the Vatican museum, we found the Vatican self-service restaurant to be great. We had turkey there and it tasted exactly like Thanksgiving dinner back home. A nice break from the pasta and a little cure from homesickness. Price was reasonable as well, lots of choices and was a good break between the two distinct tours — Sistine Chapel and the Egyptian/Etruscan exhibits.
Alisa <email>
Chicago, IL USA 09/09/01

I just returned from Italy on Tuesday. We had a wonderful trip, except for one of the worst ever eating experience. We tried one of the restaurants right outside the Vatican Museum. What a mistake! If you plan on visiting the museum, don't go at 8:45 am when it first opens, it's usually very crowded. Go around 10 or 10:30 am. The crowds are gone by then and you can explore the museum better. But don't forget, once you are done with your visit, about lunch time, eat at the museum's cafeteria, or walk towards Piazza Navona. The restaurants close to the museum are expensive and the food is just plain bad.
Anna Schubert <email>
Lake Forest, CA USA 08/30/01

Florence: Rick recommended Ristorante Bibo. We tried it and found the food fairly good. We (and another party close to us) were bothered by one thing. They note on the menu a service charge is included (I think 12% is added )but when they present the bill, it is like a North American one with a spot for a tip (as well as the service charge already being included). I found it distasteful....if service is 12% listed then that should cover everything and if we want to leave extra we shouldn't be presented with the form. (By the way we are relatively healthy tippers when service is good and have left extra on occasions so I'm not being cheap here.)

Great restaurant...ambience and food in a place just up (towards the town) from Il Niddo Hotel in the hills of Sorrento. A truly wonderful experience...also the hotel Il Niddo is the best two star hotel I've ever seen. Stay there.

Another good experience was in a small venue in Trastevere Rome "da Otello In Trastervere" I had a pasta dish that was just wonderful. Simple butexquisite. (tel 58 96 848) Another wonderful meal (pasta and a 2nd dish of a fresh local fish) was had in Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre. I don't know the name but if you walk to the bay with the boats it is on the right just before you get to the ramp that leads to the Bay. It is always full. (We were advised to go there by a local resident when we asked about the best pasta available.) You will need a reservation. The greatest table is the one with the open window overlooking the bay. See the sun set and enjoy a fabulous experience. The owner (and staff) are very friendly and speaks English.
Randy Kaneen <email>
Victoria, B.C. Canada 08/28/01

For some fantastic desserts in Italy, try almost anywhere in central or southern Florence. We had more than a few. You won't be dissapointed!!!
Eric S. <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 08/22/01

I could use some help!! I was fortunate enough to vacation in Europe this summer (Munich, Vienna, Salzburg, Florence and Rome for 3 weeks!! WoooHoooo!!) and while in Florence had a couple of wonderful dinners at a restaurant called I'Toscano on Via Guelfa near our hotel (Hotel Casci — highly recommend, by the way). I picked up their business card on the way out and when I got home e-mailed them for their recipe for Tomato Bread Soup. The chef was very kind to send it to me but once she got past the salutations, she apologised because she could only write the recipe in Italian. I am looking for some translation help with this. It's a great dish and I really hope to make it. If I could email or fax it to someone for translation, I would really appreciate it!! Thanks in advance!
Karen M <email>
Federal Way, WA USA 08/20/01

We had fantastic food in Italy but found one thing to avoid — a canned drink that has a red man on the front is NOT cherry soda or Hi-C. Whatever it is, we couldn't drink it. For a quick bite in Verona, we had Brek's and thought it was quite good and after all the suggestions on this board for Baldovino's in Florence, we had to try it and were glad we did. If we had been there longer, we would have gone back. It has three locations but our hotel couldn't find it in the phone book so here is the address we visited: Via San Giuseppe 22R (Piazza S. Croce) Tel. 055 241773. Don't miss it!
Kimberly Wilson <email>
Dallas, TX USA 08/20/01

Follow Rick's pub crawl in Venice. This was a great break from sitting down to dinner for 3 weeks! We had a ball. Start early because the pubs don't stay open late.
twostachs <email>
Chicago, IL USA 08/16/01

We ate at Vecchia Roma in Trastevere and it was the most beautiful setting and affordable. The inside is breathtaking, but they also have a beautiful patio. Don't miss their signature fish dish with red tomato sauce, unbelievable. We also enjoyed La Cisterna. The Maitre'd gave us a tour afterwards and took us in the basement to show us the actual ancient cistern (well).
twostachs <email>
Chicago, IL USA 08/16/01

The Myosotis in Rome by the Pantheon was lovely and welcoming. The staff was wonderful and the food and wine was "to die for". We left full and content paying around $30.00 for the two of us.
Susan
Knoxville, TN USA 08/14/01

My wife and I went to one in Rome and the food was absolutely delicious — however, we had no idea just how big the portions would be! We ordered two salads and two entrees. The salads were each the size of a large plate and the entrees each fit into a small casserole dish! We only ate half of the entrees and asked a waiter for a box but were informed that they don't do that. In a sense, we threw away $12 of untouched food. The place we ate the night before had no problem giving us a box. What gives??
Chris Bryant <email>
Southfield, MI USA 08/14/01

I found a pizzeria in Levanto — Cinque terre that was absolutely delicious. It is in a historical Via just 100 mt from the station in the Center of Levanto (the doorway to Cinque Terre as they like to call) near the beach and the weekly market. They have also Farinata, a specialty of Liguria made with chick pies flavour with pesto sauce or stracchino cheese. Moreover they are inexpensive: medium bill 40000 italian lire (20 $) I am sure this is the best pizza I've ever eaten.
Paul Lake
usa 08/11/01

I just want to say thanks for the recommendation of that book, Summer in Tuscany and to recommend it. It's not just cut and dried, such as saying, "Eat here," or "Eat there." Restaurants can change in a single season. It was a great guide for us and we could not have done without the phrases and words it taught us.
Annie Bunne <email>
Chicago, IL USA 08/10/01

My wife and I are just back from Italy and have these thoughts about Italy and Rick Steves. First, we estimated seeing over fifty Steves books in two weeks. It is hard to imagine how many we did not see; I began to hide my book so as not to be approached by back door types. It is clear that Rick Steves has written the best book, but the implications for certain places in Italy (the Cinque Terre most notably) cannot be understated. I am saying at once that I quite like the book and I am somewhat embarrassed to use it and contribute to the horde of Americans altering the cultural landscape. A waiter in Vernazza said it best, "Rick Steves makes us money, but I am not sure it is worth it," as he pointed to the Internet Point shop. As for places not to miss...Sorrento: Da Emilia is full of Italians, fresh ingedients and tasty sauces. Varenna: Olivedo (dinner)and Beretta (lunch) is memorable. Roma: Ciao in Termini of all places is surprisingly good and handy.
DUNCAN <email>
NYC, NY USA 07/23/01

We made some "back door discoveries" on our recent 3 week trip to Italy. In Florence, we discovered "La Carabaccia" on Via Palazzuolo, near Via degli Orti Oricellari, across from a little park. It is a "Mom, Pop, and Grandma" kind of place. We had wonderful onion soup, vegetabel soup, mushroom risotto and sea bass. The waiter (owner) promised me I would not be disappointed in the chocolate-pear tarte as his mother made it. He was right; it was great!

Another find was in Assisi. It is called "Le Cantine di Otto on Via San Francesco, next to "Il Palazzo" Hotel. We had pasta with tartuffo, cornish hen with wine, pork with balsamic vinegar sauce, and zuppa inglese. All was very good and reasonably priced. We stayed at "Il Palazzo," which owns the restaurant. Everyone was very friendly in both places. The view from our room was incredible as was the breakfast in the music room of the palazzo.

In Venice, we ate at one of Rick's suggestions, Trattoria de Bepi, Salizada del Pistor, next to Santi Apostoli Church. We had outstanding porcini mushroom pasta, frito misto seafood platter, and grilled cuttlefish. For dessert, we had some of the excellent homemade panna cotta and a wonderful chocolate tartufo.

In Siena, we ate at Il Gallo Nero and were disappointed with all except the Tuscan bean soup.

In Paestum, we stayed at the Seliano Farm, which Rick recommends. For about $115 total for 3 of us, we had a spacious and clean room, a wonderful dinner with many things homemade from the farm, and breakfast.
Joanne & Mario
Austin, TX USA 07/23/01

A word of warning, If you are in Varenna do not eat at Vecchia Varenna on the water. The food was second rate, the service rushed and the prices high. The waiter should have been in Paris not Italy.
John Gaudette <email>
Oviedo, Fl USA 07/21/01

Stayed at Rick's highly recommended Albergo Bernini in Siena and highly recommend two nearby restaurants. Had perhaps one of the best pizzas of my life at La Pizzeria di nonno Mede which is just below the terrace of Albergo Bernini. On the little street beside the Bernini is the Osteria la Chiacchera which serves great food at a very reasonable price.
Peter
Salem, OR USA 07/16/01

we just returned from 3 weeks in Italy on June 28th 2001. We had some great meals. One back door one was in a small town Bolgheri. This town is off the coast south of Livornia off some small backroads. The restaurant overlooks the vineyards and has metal cushioned chairs and is beside the school there. Go, it is great! ALso in Rome we ate at Alla Rampa near the Spanish steps-Piazza Espana. Great ambience and food. Large but personalized. Only thing is no credit cards accepted. But get the cash and go.
paul f inizio <email>
boca raton, fl USA 07/15/01

We found a pizzeria in Venice that was absolutely wonderful. It was in a large square in the Dorsdoro near the Locanda San Barnaba (where we stayed). Four large pieces of pizza and two bottles of water — less than $5. Who says that Venice is expensive? Sorry I can't remember the name or exact directions — but this was the best pizza I've ever eaten.
Beth <email>
Columbia, SC USA 07/13/01

Looking on this board again, I am jealous... We were in Italy in June for 12 days, beginning in Venezia and going through Firenze, Orvieto, Roma, Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa and Cinque Terre. ...a lovely time. In those 12 days we had many good meals, and never had a bad meal... but we also never had a "great" meal. I define this by a start-to-finish experience that leaves one walking away nearly speechless. I have had such meals (of Italian cuisine) in New York, Tokyo, and San Francisco, among other places, and was a bit disappointed not to have at least one in Italy. ...We visited tavernas, trattorias, ristorantes, self-service joints, fine-dining establishments, really a variety of cuisine experiences... Some places we got from Rick's book, others we followed our noses into. ...As I said, we never ate poorly and nearly always felt we did 'fine'... but never "great"... Has anyone else had this experience? Where did I miss out? Just to show we're not too finnicky, we had wonderful meals in France... and some simple ones in that mix, involving moules frites, soupe de poissions, steak frites, escargots, couscous, etc... atmosphere played a large role in some cases as well. Just worked out that we did better in France this time.
SN
LA, CA USA 07/10/01

My favorite for a "quick" bite in Rome with a wide selection of wine was Enoteca Cul-de-Sac, near the Paizza Navonna. The stranzipretti, caprese, cheese board, were reasonably priced, and the atmosphere was fantastic.
Dave <email>
Orlando, FL USA 07/08/01

In Venice in late June. Weather was wonderful, 1st bar on the pub crawl was a blast. Wine was 50 cents a glass.
Jerry Lucas <email>
Indianapolis, IN USA 07/06/01

My husband and I were in Venice late in April and followed Rick Steve's advice about doing an early evening pub crawl. We went to a series of bars recommended in his ITALY 2001 book and were delighted with the snacks and the tastes of wine. We have both been to Venice before and remarked how these "bar meals" made our return trip quite enjoyable.
Anne Keller <email>
Indianapolis, IN USA 07/03/01

We were desperate for bacon and eggs in Italy and we found them in Capri at the top of the funicular ride. Just to the right as you finish climbing the steps and very reasonable too. Barbara in CA
Barbara Ormonde <email>
Ontario, CA USA 07/02/01

For those who miss having a "real cup of tea" whilst in Italy ( my mother says they wave the teabag over the water) I reccomend that you go to the "Railroad Cafe" in Udine which is located in the fairly unknown reigon of Friuli Venezia Guila. The cafe is opposite the train station and next door to Mcdonalds. They make an excellent cup of tea. I feel that my Grandmother (who resides in Australia) must have taught them on one of her many trips to visit the relatives. feel free to contact me
Christine Dengate <email>
Sydney, AU 07/01/01

Best splurge meal in Venice: a family-owned restaurant called RISTORANTE DA IVO ("da" is roughly equivalent to "chez" in French, and Ivo is the proprietor's name). It's on a pretty side canal not far from the old La Fenice opera house — east, I think, but who can tell? Anyhow, get your hotel to make a reservation for you and to mark it on your map. And remember the adage: Never order fish in Venice on Monday! The reason's simple: the famous fresh fish market is closed on Sunday & Monday. If you get fish in a Venice restaurant on Monday night, it will have been on ice for 2 1/2 days.
Logan <email>
Little Rock, AR USA 06/30/01

Just got back from Italy and having food withdrawal. Like some others on this board, our worst meal in Rome was in the Piazza Navonna. Much better food at La Scala in Travastere and great pizza and pasta at Ristorante Target on Via Tornino, not far from Termini. In Venice we loved Taverna San Trovaso — very reasonable and the Dosodura area is wonderful in general. In Florence, we went to Baldovino's twice. Very inventive pasta dishes. We also liked Giglio Rosso on Via Panzini, which someone on this board recommended, and Buca Mario on Piazza degli Ottaviani. In Montorosso Risotante Belvedere was very good (make a res if you want a table with ocean view) and Ristorante Al Pozzo had excellent pansotti, a ravoli with hazelnut sauce that Rick recommends. Also the pesto is wonderful in Monterosso. In Milan we enjoyed pizzeria Califuria Unione, the only place we ate where they have non fumitore (non smoking). I wish Rick wouldn't list McDonald's in his books. Any American who eats there in Italy does not belong in Europe. Why eat burgers when you can eat wonderful paninni and calzoni for $3 each?
Tina Davis <email>
Englewood, CO USA 06/30/01

Just got back from Italy and having food withdrawal. Line some others on this board, our worst meal in Rome was in the Piazza Navonna. Much better food at la Scala in Travastere and great pizza and pasta at Ristorante Target on Via Tornino, not far from Termini. In Venice we loved Taverna San Trovaso — very reasonable and the Dosodura area is wonderful in general. In Florence, we went to Baldovino's twice. Very inventive pasta dishes. We also liked Giglio Rosso on Via Panzini, which someone on this board recommended, and Buca Mario on Piazza degli Ottaviani. In Montorosso Risotante Belvedere was very good (make a res if you want a table with ocean view) and Ristorante All Pozzo had excellent pansotti, a ravoli with hazelnut sauce that Rick recommends. Also the pesto is wonderful in Monterosso. In Milan we enjoyed pizzeria Califuria Unione, the only place we ate where they have non fumitore (non smoking). I wish Rick wouldn't list McDonald's in his books. Any American who eats there in Italy does not belong in Europe. Why eat burgers when you can eat wonderful paninni and calzoni for $3 each?
Tina Davis <email>
Englewood, CO USA 06/30/01

In Orvieto: One of our best meals on the whole trip was at the newly opened Osteria San Patrizio. Ernesto & Corinne have a beautiful & delicious place near the funicular. Corso Cavour 312. They are closed Sunday evening and Monday. This osteria and walk at night in Orvieto make it a must.
Gary Scoffield <email>
Alexandria, VA USA 06/28/01

Don't splurge on Il Pirato in Monterosso (Cinque Terre). Instead opt for the more reasonable and delicious Restaurante Miky. The restaurant is family run and consistently crowded. You may want to consider arriving before 8pm. The pizza is one of the best we had in Italy. Also, make sure to try a pasta dish. They are made for two or more people to share and are baked in a brick oven with a pizza dough on top. Sounds strange?? Your taste buds will be thrilled!!
Kristen
Charlottesville, VA USA 06/28/01

If you're in Positano, check out Da Costantino's restaurant. Very romantic place, low-key and run by very nice people — and the food was sublime! (We went mostly for grilled vegies and grilled fish, cheesy pasta things.) Reasonable, too — dinner with all the trimmings (antipasto, good wine, dessert, etc.) averaged about $20 — $25 a person. It's up in the hills, but they send somebody to pick you up at your hotel, and then later drive you back like it's the most common thing in the world. And there are several tables at these big front windows looking out over the hills and the water. Extraordinary place.
Mary Croke <email>
Narberth, PA USA 06/26/01

The information below about the sausage and cheese may not be quite accurate. Cheese is on the list of agricultural products that can be brought into the country from Europe. My family and I arrived home from a visit to Italy in late April, carrying 4 whole wheels of cheese. At customs, we were asked what sort of agricultural products we had. We told them that we had sealed intact wheels of cheese, and they didn't even ask to inspect them. I've done this many time over the years and never had a problem. Meat products are another story. As far as I know, they have never been allowed.
Angela
USA 06/25/01

To all traveling this summer... The customs are very strict about what you can bring back into the US from Europe. Everybody in our tour group that bought salami and cheese had it confiscated upon re-entering the US. Customs is not allowing ANY meat products or dairy products into the US. The duty-free shops or places that you choose to buy these products from may tell you that vacuum-packed and pasturized products are allowed back into the US, but they are mistaken. If you love them and want to try them here in the States, find a good italian deli in your area and ask if they can get in the specific product that you want or have the products sent home to you. US Agriculture will then inspect it and approve it if it is properly packaged. Besides that, have fun! I just got back from 2 glorious weeks in Venice, Florence, and Rome and I can't wait to go back. PS If you are looking for a cheap eat in Rome, go to the Trevi Fountain area. The gelato is inexpensive around there and if you turn with your back to the fountain and walk to you right, there is a little Alimentari that makes paninis (for about $3) and has the cheapest soda I found in Italy (2 liter bottle for about $1.50)
Lisa H. <email>
San Diego, CA USA 06/25/01

Traveling to Rome this fall. Looking to stay in a nice part of town with sights to view in evening. Also would like to brows and shop in evening. My first idea was to get a place near St. Peter's but the Spanish Steps also look good. Please help.
Jack Fitzgerald <email>
Hicksville, NY USA 06/24/01

I live in and work here as a Tour Guide so I get to try the wonderful food and icecream every single day!!! I have to say that I am addicted to the wonderful gelato at Blue Ice. There is one near the Trevi Fountain and another near Campo di Fiori. It is the best icecream in Rome, creamy, smooth, delicious and not only do you get a huge helping but it is also cheap! Make sure you try this, what is in my opinion, a daily necessity!
LHR <email>
Roma, Italy 06/24/01

Our family just returned from a fabulous trip to Italy and found that your guides to Italy and Rome were a God send. While we were in Tuscany we ate a copious amount of wild boar salami and wanted to buy some to bring home. One of your tips suggested that we buy it at the duty free shop in Rome, so we used our last lire on several salami, despite its terrifically inflated price (at least twice the cost of the same product we bought at the grocery store in Chuisi). But when we arrived at Customs in Detroit on the way home our 'golden' salami was confiscated by the US Customs agents. Not only did we spend an unmentionable amount of money on it, we had to watch as it was tossed in the incinerator bin. It would have been nice to have known that it is illegal to bring this tasty treat back to the states ahead of time. Aside from that, we appreciated your guide books and found the guide to Rome particularly helpful. By the end of the trip our children were tired of hearing us rave about the "bible"(your book — as we refered to it). Thank you and keep up the great work. We won't go anywhere again without consulting one of your publications.
Sara-Jane Rindos <email>
Livingston, MT USA 06/22/01

We ate a wonderful lunch buffet at the Villa Cipressi in Varenna (on Lake Como) after touring the gardens at the villa. There were grilled vegies, seafoood dishes, several hot pasta dishes, salads, and for dessert a tart with fresh grapes and berries. The price was very reasonable, and the view of the lake was spectacular.
M. Webb <email>
St. Louis, MO USA 06/15/01

What happens in Venice when you have finally reached your fill of Italian cusine? Try Ganesh Ji, an Indian Restaurant at S.Polo 2426 Rio Marin. Sit on the terrace beside a canal, soak up the ambiance as gondolas float past and eat like crazy.
Robert Wright <email>
Seattle, WA USA 06/11/01

Anybody have any votes for best pizza in Naples????/
Tom G <email>
NY, NY USA 06/08/01

Took a trip to Italy in April. Had a great time. Wonderful restaurant in Rome — Prestige Cafe Via Lucrezio Caro 16. Waiters were very nice and food was great. $36 for 5 people with everything. Trattoria Al Simeto on Via Simeto around the corner from the Hotel Beverly Hills on Largo B. Marcello. Father and son ran the place. Many locals and the TV was on with great Italian shows. Wonderful service and friendly atmosphere. In Venice, Definitely try Vivoli gelato in Venice. Right down the street from Santa Croce Square. Follow Via delle Burella. Can't remember a bad meal in Italy. Mange!
Tammy <email>
CA USA 06/05/01

DON'T eat the Tartufo at Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona. It is a disappointing experience. The Tartufo is only good if you have no tastebuds — the regular chocolate gelato is better at any roadside stand. Plus, is it just me? Navona is not magical, it is disgusting! Now, if you want to see a truly Italian square, with few tourists, go to the Campo De Fiori at night — that's where all the Italians hang out, and it is MUCH prettier (no sculpture, but didn't you see enough of that all day? Navona is filthy and full of American teenagers and tacky art). To get a little quiet, walk through one of the arches to the adjacent Piazza Farnese. Best to see that during the day — THAT is an elegant, lovely view of Rome as it used to be. From there hop over to the Via Guilia for a lovely walk, cross the Ponto Sisto into Trastevere and wind your way into the Piazza "Santa Maria in Trastevere." THAT is Italy. Frightened of seeing no other tourists? Need not apply. Warning: restaurants over here won't serve you if you're in shorts — they're not more expensive, just more civilized and cater less to tourists. And, do you feel like you're starving for basic nutrients in Rome? You should — the only green you'll see anywhere is the verdigris. Eat at Insalata Ricca (sp?) for a huge lovely salad for a small price. This place has a 4 page menu of salads only! YUM! And I can't tell you how WONDERFUL your service will be if you will frequent the same restaurant twice or more. . . find one you truly like and try it again.
Julia
Austin, TX USA 06/05/01

I ate at "Cecio" all three nights I was in Corniglia. The Pesto, the seafood...all FABULOUS! Don't miss the Cozze alla Marinara, the Penne al salmone and the seafood risotto!
Missy <email>
Bellevue, Wa USA 06/04/01

Just came back from a wonderful 21/2 week trip to Italy and I miss the food already! Here were our favorites: ROME: Found a great restaurant in Trastevere called Il Duca, Via di Cinque 52-56 (around the corner from Piazza Santo Egidio and behind Piazza Santa Maria). Excellent lasagna and spaghetti! Good house wine too. Like Nigel (below) we ate at Piazza Navona once and it was expensive and the food was mediocre at best. FLORENCE: Ate at Trattoria Cibreo (via Andrea di Verrichio 4r) and it was very good, but it is tiny,cramped and happened to be humid in there that night. A far better and less expensive option was Pizzeria Il Ghibellini (Piazza San Pier Maggiore 8-10r, at the end of B delgi Albizi and east of Via di Pronscolo). Excellent! Try the house pizza. Go between early without reservations. SIENA: For a spluge make reservations at Osteria Le Logge (Via di Porrine 33, off the Campo) 0577/48013. We celebrated my birthday here and it was wonderful! The duck, fixed Mandarin-style was heavenly. SAN GIMIGNANO: For lunch with great view nothing beats Bar Enoteca Il Castello (Via di Castello 20). We had antipasti and wine and enjoyed the Tuscan countryside. Not the cheapest nor the best food, but worth it. MONTALCINO: Starving, we stumbled on a great place for lunch — Locanda di Piazza Padella (near Piazza Giardibaldi and Via Bondi). Highly recommend the Ravoli all Cartoccio (not sure what it was stuffed with, but yummy). VENICE: was not impressed with Alla Madonna — way too many tourists. Thank goodness for Rick Steve's pub crawl! We had so much fun! Loved the little sandwiches at Osteria Alla Botte and the seafood snacks at Osteria Al Portego. We went to 4 places and even had an espresso and dessert and it came to less than 50.000L. SANTA MARGHERITA: Some of the best food on our trip! Highly recommend Trattoria Noemi (Via Bernardo 6). Great seafood at good prices. Try the fresh anchovies — they will surprise you (not salty). Mussels and calamari also excellent. Another good choice is Trattoria Baicin, Via Algeria 9. Try the ravioli with walnut sauce and the fried mixed fish. Buon Appetito!
Jennifer <email>
Portland, OR USA 06/03/01

One of my favorite ristorantes in all of Italy is "la Conchiglia D'Oro" located in Vicenza. The calamari is to die for and the pasta dishes are out of this world!
Jennifer McHugh <email>
Worcester, MA USA 06/03/01

Stayed in Rome from May 8-15 and bought a book called "Cheap Eats in Italy." As well as Rick's book and only ate at places listed in one of the books. It made a huge difference, every meal we ate was outstanding, no more wandering into some random place that "looks good"
Andy
USA 06/01/01

In Rome, we ate on the Piazza Navona which was probably a mistake, fairly average meal. The next night we tried out the area behind the Piazza and found a thriving night life and fun restaurants. We ate at the Navona Notte, don't quote me on the name but it was excellent and filled with Italians. One thing we have to get used to now we are back is eating inside. In Florence, Baldovino's was a fantastic recommendation from many people on this board and I second the motion. One thing you should do for any of these restaurants is ask your hotel to make a reservation for you. We found that by walking a block or two in any direction away from the popular tourist sites is where you would find the best restaurants. We did waste some money eating on some of the famous Piazza's of Italy but sometimes the view is worth the average food and expense. In Ravello, we ate at a restaurant that was probably the best food I have ever eaten. Can't remember the name but its where Jacqueline Kennedy are when she stayed there. If you can find it, order the Ravioli and thank me later.
Nigel <email>
South Lyon, MI USA 05/31/01

We returned from a fabulous trip to Italy 5/28/01 and ate delicious food everywhere. Our favorites were Baldovino (great atmosphere and innovative dishes) in Florence, Ristorante/Pizzeria Vincenza on Lungaretta in Rome (cozy home atmosphere with tasty fetuccine with mushrooms), and Ristorante Il Glio in Volastra (Ligurian cuisine with fresh fish and trenette pesto).
Food lovers
Dallas, TX USA 05/30/01

We returned from a fabulous trip to Italy 5/28/01 and ate deliciousu food everywhere. Our favorites were Baldovino (great atmosphere and innovative dishes) in Florence, Ristorante/Pizzeria Vincenza on Lungaretta in Rome (cozy home atmosphere with tasty fetuccine with mushrooms), and Ristorante Il Glio in Volastra (Ligurian cuisine with fresh fish and trenette pesto.
Food lovers
Dallas, TX USA 05/30/01

For the folks who are still planning your trip, it is just about all mouth watering. A lady told us she did not think that there was a bad bottle of red wine in the country. We did not find it anywhere. One thing I would recommend is that you check your watches. Several times we forgot the 2 PM shut off for lunches at many places, and had to find another lunch spot or sometimes could only order another delicious pizza only. (Times were hard!!) IN GUBBIO: They told us to come in and had an excellet lunch with an excellent grilled baby chicken and lamb chops. I want to plug this place because they were generous with their time and the food was both inexpensive and delicious. The Trattoria S. Martino on Via Del Consoli at the Piazza Giordano Bruno. Try it, you will enjoy the at home friendly folks.
John Stevens <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 05/29/01

Ice cream and pizza (especially in rome) are almost the only things i ate while in italy. I ate amazing italian ice cream at leat twice a day even though my budget was suffering. It may be a bit pricy if your a budget traveller but its defintly the best!
paul
toronto, Canada 05/28/01

My husband and I spent 14 days in Italy, in March. Our meal at IL Frantoio 77 Via Flaminia, in Rome near Piazza del Popolo was wonderful. We tried just about everything! Francesco and his wife were friendly and made our meal very enjoyable. This was one of my husband's favorite meals. We also loved Piazza Navona! We ate pizza at Enoteca La Bevitoria and desert at Caffe Dolce Vita. Both were very good and the atmosphere was the best. Our meals were by candle light and the muscians played in the Piazza. It will remain one of our best memories of Italy. In Venice the best lasagna we have ever eaten was at Al Colombo. It was very nice and the food was very good. We listened to Rick Steves while we were in Venice we wondered and got lost. Venice was one of our favorite places. We tried some of the sandwiches at a 'Snack Bar' near Rialto Bridge for lunch. They were also very good. The other area that we had wonderful food was outside of Sorrento in Massa Lubrense. We ate twice at IL Tritone. The eggplant, Sorentina, Lasagna and Seafood was heavenly! This restaurant was in a lemon grove and our waiter, Francisco, was the best! He spoke 6 lanaguages!! We tried Gelato in all of the areas that we visited. It was the best in Verona!!
Tina
Atlanta, Ga USA 05/23/01

My husband and I spent 14 days in Italy, in March. Our meal at IL Frantoio 77 Via Flaminia, near Piazza del Popolo was wonderful. We tried just about everything! Francesco and his wife were friendly and made our meal very enjoyable. This was one of my husband's favorite meals. We also loved Piazza Navona! We ate pizza at Enoteca La Bevitoria and desert at Caffe Dolce Vita. Both were very good and the atmosphere was the best. Our meals were by candle light and the muscians played in the Piazza. It will remain one of our best memories of Italy. In Venice the best lasagna we have ever eaten was at Al Colombo. It was very nice and the food was very good. We listened to Rick Steves while we were in Venice we wondered and got lost. Venice was one of our favorite places. We tried some of the sandwiches at a 'Snack Bar' near Rialto Bridge for lunch. They were also very good. The other area that we had wonderful food was outside of Sorrento in Massa Lubrense. We ate twice at IL Tritone. The eggplant, Sorentina, Lasagna and Seafood was heavenly! This restaurant was in a lemon grove and our waiter, Francisco, was the best! He spoke 6 lanaguages!! We tried Gelato in all of the areas that we visited. It was the best in Verona!!
Tina
Atlanta, Ga USA 05/23/01

da mao patacca restaurant and/or le colonne restaurant in rome??? any pros or cons? we have reservations for next month....on 2 consecutive nights>
rich <email>
michigan city, in USA 05/22/01

have any of you dined @ da meo patacca or le' colonne restaurants in rome? we have resrvations at both next month. what do you suggest from the menu? how's the neighborhood?
rich pliske <email>
michigan city, in USA 05/22/01

I'll be in Rome, Florence, & Venice soon and was wondering if anyone knew of any Olive Oil tasting tours or places/factories. I can't do wine tasting because I'm pregnant but I love food so olives and olive oil will be GREAT!
Lisa <email>
Gaithersburg, MD USA 05/22/01

We stayed at a great farmhouse apartment 40 miles from Rome in Vetralla. It was wonderful they also have a resturant that is wonderful, everything that is on the menu comes from the farm. Farm is also a working Oil grove and there is factory across the road that processes the Oils it was quite interesting. Excellent food and accomodations. I Due Casali Azienda Agrituristica S.S. Cassic Km 70 Vetralla (Viterbo) 0761.46.18.57 Di Sini Francesco
Hasschen
USA 05/21/01

During a stay in Montepulciano this May, we had dinner twice at a family-run restaurant called Trattoria di Voltaia at 86 Via Di Voltaia Nel Corso. The owners were very friendly, the food was excellent, and the prices were very reasonable, approximately $40 for 2. During the same trip we ate in Chiusi at Osteria La Solita Zuppa at 21 Via Porsenna. The entire meal was an "experience." The food was excellent in a family run operation. A 5-course meal including a variety of wines cost only $60 for 2, including the tip. Well worth a trip to Chiusi.
Janet & John <email>
Plympton, MA USA 05/20/01

While in Florence, we ate at a charming restaurant call Al Pescatore, V.P. Mosse 54. Great atmosphere, great food, wonderful host and hostess. The bill came to about $140 for four with plenty of food and wine consumed.
Jill Holsen <email>
Moorhead, MN USA 05/17/01

While visiting Sorrento in April we found a fabulous restaurant! It is called La Pasteria Di Corso and is near the main square (Tasso). We found it by walking down an alley off the main street but I think there is a front door.

It was nicely decorated, inexpensive and had a menu that read like a book. All the recipes are Neopolitan from the 1700's and made with very few changes, if any. We had two appetizers, two pastas, a pizza, two large beers, a bottle of water, and two desserts, all for $50 US. This was the largest meal and best service we had in four countries; I just wished we had another night here. Phone 0335.66.69.631 or 081.877.34.42.

We also ate at a restaurant called La Stables (something like that) in the same alley which was very good as well.
Margaret Ruszkowski <email>
Dacula, Ga USA 05/15/01

I live in Rome and one of my favorite restaurants is La Tartaruga (The Turtle). It is just off the 8 tram line when you get into Largo Argentina. Great fish, pasta, wines that are reasonable, but incredible. Mirco is the head waiter and is very attentive and so nice. Make a reservation...it is well worth it. A meal for one including wine, pasta, fish and a dessert is around £60.000 (US$30).
Rachel Palmer <email>
Roma, italy 05/15/01

We loved Le Terrazze in San Gimignano — great pasta & food. Moderate prices, friendly service. But the town of San Gimignano had too many people.

Le Torre in Siena (Via Salicotto 7-9, back of plaza del Campo; no English): Fantastic homemade pasta, good prices. Open for lunch.

Rome: Trattoria L Leioni d'Abruzzo (Via Vicenza 44, 4 blocks from Termini) has great dinners. Reasonable — Rick's type of pricing.

Florence: Cafe Coquinarius wine bar (Via delle Oche, 15r) had wonderful pasta & moderate prices (pasta dishes 12-14000L) & very good service.
Joe Gesto <email>
San Clemente, CA USA 05/13/01

In Florence, you must go to Hydra @ via canto de nelli 38r. Ask for Pasquale Pometto, one of the owners. We had such fun with him — he is a great host. Oh my gosh, this is the best pizza in the whole universe.
john wood <email>
spokane, wa USA 05/08/01

Trattoria Il Messere is a wonderful restaurant in Florence where delicious meals are served by the handsome owner to the dulcet tones of old American jazz. Il Messere has some extraordinary pasta dishes — don't miss them! We dined several times here in May and December and each experience surpassed the one before it.

We'll never forget the fabulous dinner we had on New Year's Eve at Pane e Vino on "the other side" in Florence. This small restaurant vies with the best of our neighboring Berkeley's gourmet ghetto, and the service puts even Chez Panisse to shame. The maitre d', whom I call Il Professore, will delight you with his knowledge of wine, and you can absolutely place your wine choices in his authoritative and opinionated hands. Small and cozy, a good walk from Florence central, and a taste of real Firenze, this restaurant is a treasure you will savor for years. I almost hate to mention it here on this board, but hey, we won't all rush off to Florence at the very same time, will we??? Enjoy!
Alexis Masters, author of THE GIULIANA LEGACY, a novel set in Tuscany <email>
Richmond, CA USA 05/07/01

Nello La Taverna in Siena is not to be missed! The food is really divine and elegantly presented; the handmade pasta especially will stay in your mind for months! The owners are wonderful, and Mauro surprised us with his excellent English and exceptional sensibilities. You will not regret any meal you have there — Nello is a guaranteed winner.

Also, for a completely different kind of food, try Osteria Nona Gina. Mostly frequented by locals in search of a great home-style meal, the Nona Gina is crowded and noisy but all in the very best ways. We loved this place! Actually, we'd return to each of these again and again if we could. We can hardly wait to go back. Buon appetito!
Alexis Masters, author of THE GIULIANA LEGACY, set in Tuscany <email>
Richmond, CA USA 05/07/01

We just got back from Rome, where we had a wonderful meal at Ristorante al Cardello. It is near the Colosseum at the corner of Cavour and Cardello. Very small, and family-style. We had a feast with wine, appetizers, main course and dessert for $50. It was wonderful!
Vicki Hollis <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 05/05/01

When in Florence...an absolute MUST dinner should be the "Osteria Porcellino," just off a side street from the Straw Market (near the pig). The absolute best dinner my wife and I had in either Rome or Florence. It has a great welcoming ambience, the food is out of this world (try the balsamic steak), and the host — Enzo — is one of the friendliest people in all of Italy. Be prepared for a dining experience that could last from 2 to 3-1/2 hours. Try the house red and have a great time!
Jesse Brennan <email>
New York City, NY USA 04/26/01

My wife and I just spent 10 days in Venice and Florence, and have been a Rick Steves fan for well over 10 years.

The most recommended restaurant in this site seems to be Baldovino's in Florence, and I agree. This is an absolutely terrific eating experience. The focaccia with basil and tomato is the best thing I have ever eaten. All the food we had there was good and reasonable. The owner is a neat guy who actually hails from Scotland, of all places!

Directions: as you face Santa Croce, simply walk to the left of the church 1/2 block to the restaurant.

A find that we made is Trattoria Il Caminetto, at via della Studio, 34r. Simply found — face the Duomo, walk to the right side, and just about the right rear quarter of the cathedral complex, this small street enters to the right. The restaurant is perhaps a hundred yards from the Duomo.

Food is terrific, nice ambience both inside as well as outside, and a staff that genuinely wants you to enjoy your eating experience. The waiter will bring you a free drink of grappa, dessert wine or lemoncello after the meal as their gift.

Overall, we found the dining to be better than it was in Provence last spring.
Jim Todd <email>
Dalton, GA USA 04/25/01

In Siena, Antica Trattoria Papei was fabulous (Piazza del Mercato 6, southeast of Piazza del Campo). We ate there three nights out of five. Not only was the food terrific, but the service was personable and extremely friendly... not stand-offish just because we were tourists. The meals we had here were the best of our 12-day trip through Italy.
Amy <email>
San Dimas, CA USA 04/17/01

Try CIBREO in Florence! In February we married in Florence and chose Cibreo for the reception. The sixteen of us agreed that was among the best food we had tasted. The verbal menus added a fun twist, especially after a couple of reds! Absolutely reccommend this resturant.
Michelle Carr-Brown <email>
Brisbane, Australia 04/11/01

When in Rome, try CAVALLINO BIANCO (The Little White Horse) right in front of Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle, about three blocks away from the Termini Station. They have everything (antipasto, pasta, meat, fish, dessert, pizza, wine) and they are all outstanding. (Then again, have you ever walked into an eatery/trattoria/restaurant anywhere in Italy and had something that WASN'T delicious?!)
Yuji <email>
New York, NY USA 04/10/01

Ciao Tutti! This is Mena, whose parents own and run Il Frantoio in Rome . The restaurant on Via Flaminia 77 is closed and will be moving to a different and better location within a month or so. As soon as I have more information I will let everyone know. Grazie ancora.
Mena <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA 04/07/01

AVISO! ALERT! Il Frantoio's in Rome (Via Flaminia No. 77) is temporarily closed. We went there for lunch the day before yesterday (April 5th) and Francesco and Fusae were packing everything up. They were a little vague, but were looking for another location somewhere in the vicinity. They said it might be a week to three weeks. Since we will be here for another three weeks, we will check in with them and post new address if available.
Bob Burns <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 04/07/01

I wouldn't worry about trying these quickie frozen meals now popular in Italy. At the "Jolly Cafe" in Siena, while my husband was waiting for a piece of pizza to be heated, I noticed a sign that showed various Jolly-brand pasta entrees. (I had seen these signs in other small cafes too.) Usually a place won't have all the entrees shown, but if there's a price under the picture, you can order it. So I tried the spinach manicotti — and then learned that it was a frozen meal that the owner microwaved for me. It was excellent! Nothing like the frozen dinners you get here at home. It tastes more like something you might make yourself and then freeze.
Celine McCoy <email>
San Diego, CA USA 04/02/01

Rick's suggestion of Locando Garibaldi in Siena was terrific. And we did have the Dolci con Vino Santo as he suggested — our most sophisticated European moment, dipping biscotti in sweet wine. Get there early because there aren't many tables — and people sit there all night enjoying the good food.

Also in Siena, the best gelato is on Il Campo at Il Gelato. Try chocolate and lemon together.

In Rome: in the Trastevere area, try Il Mercanti just off the Piazza Sta Cecilia. The salmon pizza is wonderful!

For a good quick (cheap) stand-up place, go to Euro Pizza at Viale di Trastevere 51. We got to be regulars there, going several times a week for a quick slice of pizza. They have a greater variety on weekend evenings, but you can get hot pastas at lunchtime. Try the nutella dessert pizza if they have some. And tell Mario and Graziella that Mark and Celine say Hi! (But they don't speak English.) There's good gelato a block or two down to the left as you leave Euro Pizza. Try the Bacio and Nutella. Yum!

(See our other suggestions under "Off-season travel.")
Mark and Celine McCoy <email>
San Diego, CA USA 04/01/01

ROME: Ristorante Capriccio Italiano, Via Liguria 43, off Via Veneto — EXCELLENT! They have an antipasto buffet that is unreal, and a 3-course dinner for two was US $70. I would go here on every trip to Rome. The owner sent over complimentary Sicilian Lemoncello...best we had in Italy. They had homemade Lemon Sorbet...ask for it. Spaghetti Gamberi (shrimp in red sauce) is outstanding!

CAPRI: Ristorante Buca di Bacco. Try an excellent 4-cheese sauce with eggplant. Very nice staff. Had wine and 4-course meal for US $35. Great value...wonderful food!

CAPRI: Ristorante il Torrino. Husband is waiter, wife is cook, with maybe 8 small tables in this little place. We had stuffed eggplant in a rolled pasta with their tomato sauce — best dish we had in Italy! With house wine and dessert, US $45. Hard to find, but worth the effort...ask a local.

CAPRI: Villa Verde Ristorante, Via Sella Otra 6. They make excellent Pizza Margherita. Very nice place; lunch for 2 was US $40.

AMALFI: Trattoria il Tari, Via P. Capuano N. 9/11, just up from Marina. Family-run, it's an excellent value — US $33 for lunch for 2. Spaghetti Vongole was outstanding; my Carbonara was excellent as well.

Overall we were pleasantly suprised with the values we found in Italy.
Bruce Corkern <email>
Covington, La. USA 03/31/01

We love LA MAREMMA restaurant in Florence off of Via Verde near Santa Croce. We've eaten there many times and continue to go back. Their Ravioli with Noci Sauce is wonderful.
Marilyn Ham <email>
Cheyenne, WY USA 03/29/01

I wholheartedly endorse Rick Steve's Venice pub crawl. The first place was a little intimidating because it was wall-to-wall locals, but we had a wonderful time and can't wait to do it again!
CB
NJ USA 03/29/01

I love this message board. My husband and I just got back from Italy and relied on many of the suggestions from here.

Marios in Florence had the BEST steak in the world...Myostis in Rome, perfect homemade pasta, great wine selection...Cibero in Florence: it's wonderful in every way; a must...Vivoli's gelato IS the best in Florence.
W. Vickery <email>
Walnut Creek, CA USA 03/27/01

Try a restaurant called Myostis in Rome by the Pantheon — now that is wonderful food, excellent service and good prices.
James Kelley <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 03/27/01

We read the comments on this board and took many of the suggestions. All were fantastic except for one, II Frantoio, at Via Flaminio 77. After reading the reviews we couldn't wait to try it (the owners used to live in San Francisco where we do). The place was filled with tourists and the hosts were VERY nice, but the food was mediocre at best and they really took advantage of us. VERY EXPENSIVE and not worth it.
Lisa Rogers <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 03/26/01

In Rome: don't miss the tartufo at Tre Scalini on Piazza Navona; it is an incredible taste sensation! Della Palma gelato near the Pantheon is fabulous! For good cheap eats, try Pastarito/Pizzarito; it's a chain, and you get lots of pasta for your money. (We ate at the Via Veneto one right next door to the Cappuccin Crypt, at the Barberini metro stop.)

In Florence: dine at Baldovino, near Santa Croce church. Great focaccia! Vivoli's gelato near Santa Croce is fantastic! And Casalinga on the south side of the river had good inexpensive food; the pasta was delicious!
Denise Chan <email>
Kirkland, WA USA 03/21/01

Just returned from two wonderful weeks of eating and drinking our way through Italy. Some delightful restaurant memories:

— Florence — C'est Ce Ce (bistecca florentina)
— Siena — Il Ghibello, on Via dei Pellegrini (spectacular duck)
— Orvieto — La Buca di Bacco on Corso Cavour (the best gnocchi with black truffles I had all trip)
— Cortona — Trattoria Toscana, Porto San Stefano — La Bussola (don't even bother with a menu, just let them bring you seafood, seafood and more seafood). — I can't remember the name of the great trattoria in Rome, but it starts with an "R" and is in the first block on the street just to the right of Via Condotti if you are standing at the Spanish Steps, facing out (great mussels, decent fish, and very very fun).
Joan Holland <email>
Arlington, VA USA 03/16/01

I spent about a month in Italy last summer, and practically lived on coffee, fruit from the morning markets, and fabulous ice cream. (A perfect meal plan when your budget didn't plan for food...every foreign exchange student should know you can't count on getting a host family). Anyhow, there's nothing in the world like Italian gelato. The best I've found is a fabulous place in Pisa called "Bottega Gelato"...huge amounts of luscious ice cream for less than 2000 lire.
Erika Rasey <email>
Des Moines, IA USA 03/15/01

Il Canonico, in Cariagno, near Turin: The owners love food, and the place, in an old brick barn, reminded me of a Napa Valley foodie restaurant but affordable and friendly. We had the two "menus" — one was based on fish from the river, the other on meat of the region. Great wine and desserts, of course. They also run tastings, of wine, olive oil, chocolate... http://www.ilcanonico.it/
Al Vaporetto
USA 03/15/01

I highly recommend Zibebbo, in Florence on the via di Terzolina 5r (about a 15-minute cab ride from the central city). Exceptional food, in the hills above the city. And for gelato, Gelateria Vivoli near Santa Croce had the best gelato in my opinion.
Eileen <email>
Chicago, IL USA 03/14/01

My sister and I backpacked for two months last summer, and our favorite restaurant of them all was in Florence, called BALDOVINO's. What an INCREDIBLE place — fabulous energy, fabulous staff, fabulous food — and all served by the funniest waitstaff ever. Apparently owned by a Dutch family, they speak a mixture of English, Italian and Dutch, and serve up the best Florentine steak and salads ever — not to mention the array of pastas and you name it! Great interior too.

We waited with a group of friends for an hour (get reservations!) and were the last people to be served — and ended up closing the place down — but the staff gave us hugs and shook our hands and sent us off laughing from their witty goodbyes — not to mention how happy our bellies were from a fantastic evening meal!

After returning home, we recommended the restaurant to our parents who also ate there — and after finishing a month tour of Italy, they too claimed, as we had, that it was their best meal.
Anne Zimmerman <email>
portland, ME USA 03/13/01

RISTORANTE ABRUZZI, ROME: A great value; we enjoyed antipasto misto (a mixed appetizer plate of cheeses, salumi, Prosciutto and olives), ensalata misto, pasta and veal, with $3 liters of excellent house red. The tables crowded outside on a walking street with Romans rushing by, the friendly staff, good food — what a welcome to Rome!

MYOSOTIS, ROME — On the fancier side, pastel tablecloths and napkins, murmuring waiters and a warm fireplace. We again enjoyed a huge antipasto misto (becoming a habit), more spaghetti carbonara than I have ever seen on a plate, and a shared baked halibut main dish. Too much good food! 260,000 lire (about $110) for four.

AR GALLETTO ON PIAZZA FARNESE, ROME — Again tables outside on the piazza opposite Palazzo Farnese (see Tosca on Italy page), quality, reasonably priced, good service.

LA BUCA DI BACCO, ORVIETO, ITALY — Antipasti of salumis, Prosciutto, cheese and olives, Gnocchi with truffle-cream sauce, vittello con funghi Portabello, chicken cacciatore. 91,000 lire = $49 including wine and service.

RISTORANTE IL POZZO, MONTERIGGIONI, ITALY — The aroma of saddle of wild boar grilling in the back garden guided us to Il Pozzo rather than the only other restaurant in this tiny hilltop town. Bruschetta, zuppa de fagioli (bean soup, thick with red onions on side), panetta (bread spread with olive-tomato relish), cingale (grilled wild boar), Karen's cannolli-like pasta dish, Chianti Colli Senesi from Monteriggioni. Best meal of the trip!
Paul Duggan <email>
TRuckee, CA USA 03/07/01

In Florence, just left of the Santa Croce church, is IL FRANCESCANO. They have the best pork chops in the world, with a definite Italian twist...or better yet, let the waiters bring you a surprise. (They don't speak much English though.) It's affordable and they have a house brand of olive oil that I love — you can buy the bottles to bring home for about $6.50 a bottle, and it's worth it!
Elizabeth
Lexington, KY USA 02/28/01

Gio Mia near the Trevi Fountain in Rome is by far the best restaurant value. We ate a feast for $36! Anything with porcini's is wonderful. The grappa is also excellent. Don't be put off by its location and outside appearance...your mouth will thank you.

Avoid any restaurants that invite you in. This should have been obvious to us, but we were cajoled into going into a restarant our first night when we were exhausted and hungry, and were utterly unimpressed. And avoid anything in a tourist area that is pricey...you won't necessarily get a better meal.
Laura Riter
Boston, MA USA 02/21/01

Just got back from a week in Italy. Ate like pigs. Loved it all. Here are our favorites:

ROME: — Filetti de Baccala (Campo de Fiori). Wonderful and cheap. Lots of locals. — Trattoria der Pallaro (also in the Campo). Like the book says, you eat what they want to feed you, and it's all great. Ask to see the wine cellar. — Il Frantoio (Via Flaminio 77, near Piazza di Popolo). Best food in the world. Great hosts. Our most expensive meal, around 50 bucks for two. But we ate everything in the house. Amazing.

SIENA: — Osteria la Chiacchera. Delicious and cheap. The tripe (yes, tripe) was spectacular.

ORVIETO:
We stayed at the Hotel Corso (great place) and ate at a place they sent us to, right up the street. I think it's called La Boca de Bacca or something like that. The gnocchi verde were creamy and wonderful.

All week, we found places that would make us custom sandwiches for lunch. All were delicious. Buy a sandwich and a bottle of wine, sit in a piazza and enjoy. Life is good.
Pete Smith <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 02/15/01

Thanks to Lianne M. from Monterey (and others) for her tip for Ristorante Pizzeria Correale in Sorrento. We easily found it just 1/2 block off the main square. I had veal steak in artichoke cream sauce that was to die for. Excellent service. I gave them a printout of this web page, which they had never seen, and they were excited and ran into the kitchen with it! We had a party of 6 and everyone was happy.

Also, in Montecatini Terme, go up the hill to Ristorante Pietre Cavate for a beautiful evening cityscape and wonderful family-made food.

In Perugia try Il Settimo Sigillo (2 blocks around the backside of the duomo) for steak and truffles! Excellent.
Ccraig Mickelson <email>
Spearfish, , SD USA 02/11/01

Follow Rick's "Pub Crawl" in Venice. We visited five of his recommendations and had the best time (and a little too much to drink). After stopping for gelato we headed over to Piazza San Marco for coffee and listened to the dueling orchestras. (You can see pictures of our pub crawl at our website under "Venice" at www.davidandstarr.homestead.com/Home.html.)
Starr and David <email>
Highlands Ranch, CO USA 01/15/01

I cannot imagine what my life would be like had I not experienced pesto lasagna along with an amazing bottle of crisp local white Cinque Terre wine in Vernazza, overlooking the sunset on the Mediterranean...but the "icing" on my cake was not icing at all, rather delicious rum-soaked tiramisu. My return to U.S. has been an extended search for pesto or tiramisu that is even 1/2 as tempting as that which I was able to acquire at the drop of a dime (almost literally). (The only place that has come close is Mia Francesca on North Clark.)
Kristy Buttry <email>
Chicago, IL USA 01/07/01

Bologna and Turin are not exactly on the tourist map, but both are foodie heaven.

First, Bologna. Every place seems to have sensational food, but these two are standouts: Teresina off Via Oberdan, and the venerable Restaurant Diana on the Via dell'Independencia. The Diana was, by far, the BEST meal we had in Italy (lunchtime is a great time to judge restaurants in Italy, and so it was with Diana). Green lasagna to start, bollito misto, great wine, dessert, superb service and one of the prettiest rooms around. GO! Bologna, by the way, feels, smells and acts like a real place — unlike Florence.

Turin will change your opinions about Italian cities — it was built on STRAIGHT lines meeting at RIGHT angles...what a concept. Christmas shopping on Via Roma will get you dropping those lire, and lunch at Caffe Torino on one of the main squares set us back a fair amount...but what a meal! Turin's pride and joy are its many fin-de-siecle cafes, and this is one of them. Our meal lasted about three hours, and covered about 10 courses (it WAS Xmas, after all). Artichokes are in season now, risotto never goes out of style, pannaforte here is King Kong-like and the service rates a "10." Our only regret was that everything was locked up tight on the 25th and the 26th, which prompted us to move on; if that were not the case, we'd have stayed for another day or two to visit museums, eat more and enjoy lovely Turin.

In our judgment, you can eat extremely well in Italy but it will cost you more than the equivalent meal in France — don't ask us why.
Rochelle Weiner <email>
Germantown, NY USA 01/05/01