Rick Steves' Europe: Guidebook Feedback: Rick Steves' Rome 2003

Guidebook Feedback : Rick Steves' Rome 2003

If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition? Here's what you thought in 2003.

(Note: Some feedback with time-sensitive information is deleted yearly after Rick uses it to update his guidebook. Other, more general comments are archived here.)

Hostaria Romana
During our 4 days in Rome we ate at Hostaria Romana twice. It is a short walk from Via Firenze and is described in the book as a place where "the waiters really seem to enjoy their work". I cannot say enough wonderful things about this restaurant! The food was amazing and the service superb. It is essential to make reservations, however, if you plan to arrive after 7pm.
Kellye <email>
Dallas, TX USA 12/31/03

Hotel Santa Maria
Hotel Santa Maria is great. There were 4 of us there the first week of November 2003 so we booked the Senior Suite. The bathtub is to die for! The hotel could not have been nicer, the staff could not have been more helpful and attentive, the breakfast was delicious (I may never drop the pounds from the great pastries). The location in Trastevere is perfect. Be sure to go in the church on the square, roam the streets, try the food. We had a great time trying out the area bars/restaurants. The little shops have all kinds of interesting things to buy. They don't look like much during the day, but after dark, when everything is open, you'll find all kinds of goodies.Cross the river and stroll the streets, it's the only way to enjoy Rome. If you get too tired to walk back, hop on a bus, or just take a taxi (they were not terribly expensive....but we were splitting the costs 4 ways...which makes a difference). Have them take you to the bridge you crossed over and walk to the hotel from there.
Pam <email>
Houston,, TX USA 12/29/03

Residenza Cellini
I spent 4 wonderful days in Rome just before Thanksgiving. I am so happy that I read Rick's book for many reasons but his recommendation to stay at Residenza Cellini didn't say enough. This is a real find. The owners are very caring and knowledgable. They helped me plan my days there and I really did a lot in 4 days. The rooms are lovely and impecably clean. Breakfast was something to look forward to each day. I also recommend using the limo service that they arrange from the airport. After an over night flight I really didn't want to deal with the train and then getting from the termini to the hotel. I have since recommended this wonderful "rezidenza" to many friends. I threw my coins in the fountain at Trevi and when I return to Rome it will be my pleasure to stay at Rezidenza Cellini again.
Lawrence Kraft <email>
Edison, NJ USA 12/23/03

Italy trip
I stayed at Banchi Vecchi. They screwed up on my reservation the first night and had to sleep in a bachelor suite. Had to sleep with earplugs because the bedroom overlooked a very busy restaurant. The owner is very nice and the manager went out of his way to make us comfortable. When we finally got into our room the next day, oh my god, what a beautiful and luxurious room. Very beautiful and breakfast is served in bed.

<email>
Vancouver, BC CAN 12/02/03

An American Tourist in Rome
Just returned from a wonderful Italy trip. We were there November 15 through November 25. A few tips for visiting the sights:

First, getting anywhere early is never a bad thing. Although November is off-season, some sights are still crowded. We got to the Colosseum at about 8:30 am and encountered only a ticket clerk reading a magazine. We walked right in and had the place to ourselves for almost an hour. At about 10 am the line appeared to be well over an hour long. Beware the "Roman" soldiers and gladiators outside posing for pictures. Agree on your price before you let them pose for your pictures. They wanted five euros per picture with them. We gave them two euros total and told them to deal with it. Use the WC before you go in. Facilities are limited and are at the exit. Prices are going up slightly (about 20%) from Rick's 2003 guidebook. Bring Rick's guidebooks with you to every sight you see. His books provide a very detailed and historically accurate self guided tour of the sight.

St. Peter-in-Chains church is just up the hill in the neighborhood behind the Colosseum. For the Catholics among us this is a very significant sight. Get there early, it closes at 11 am on some days.

The Vatican was the highlight of the trip. Get there early. Lines are long but move quickly. Security checkpoints are frequent. The dress code is very strictly enforced in the Vatican and almost all cathedrals and churches in Italy. No shorts, skirts or bare shoulders for men, women or children, no exceptions! Allow the entire day to see the Vatican museum and St. Peter's Basilica. If you plan right and the Pope's schedule permits, ask the Swiss Guards for tickets for the Pope's Blessing on Wednesdays. The Pope appears live and gives blessings in many languages to a limited audience. It is a life changing experience. Get there early also, as the lines are long, seating is first come-first serve, and security is tight.

Beware of the traffic in Rome. It is fast and can be dangerous if you're not paying attention. The scooters will drive between cars and run traffic lights so pay attention even if you have the green light. The streets are safe, even at night. There are local and military police everywhere, and they carry big guns so don't worry.

Everybody I talked to was very friendly to tourists and Americans. (Italy and America are strong military allies and it shows.) Most people speak good English and will help you with your Italian. They like it when you try to speak Italian.

The street side bodegas are crowded during lunch so don't be afraid to squeeze your way up front if you want to to get any service. The pizzas are good and filling and are very inexpensive. The gelato places are frequent. Try them all, some are great and have different flavors.

Don't drive and don't take a cab if you can walk. Cabs are expensive and some are scams. Driving is impossible and every car has a dent in it. There is no parking anywhere. The Metro is crowded but very cheap and goes to all the major sights. It's great people-watching, just watch for the pickpockets, aggressive vendors, and seemingly "homeless" families and children begging for money at the entrances to the Metro and on the train cars.

Plan ahead, pay attention, and you will have a wonderful experience.
CC <email>
Denver, Colorado USA 12/01/03

Residenza Cellini
We just returned from Rome. We had a wonderful experience at the Residenza Cellini. email: residenzacellini@tin.it They were a bit difficult to find as their sign is quite small, but just ask for directions from Roma Termini (the main train station within a few blocks walking distance). I can't say enough about their service. Breakfast was ready and delicious every morning. They even set out breakfast for us at 4:00 a.m. when we had to leave early one day. They only have six rooms which are quaint and very clean. Make reservations early as they fill up quickly. They give a discount if you show them Rick Steve's Rome guidebook. We used the 2003 book so prices are going up a bit, but well worth it anyway. They accept payment in cash (Euros only) or AMEX Euro traveler's checks. They are within walking distance (within a mile or so) to many major sights and great shopping and restaurants.
CC <email>
Denver, Colorado USA 12/01/03

Rome
We stayed in Rome for three nights in the summer of 2002 at the Casa Olmatta Hostel. We had no trouble finding the place. We changed rooms when we got there due to booking (it was our choice) and stayed in one of their apartments near San Giovanni. The apartment was safe, clean, and had no lock-out or curfew. There was a nice kitchen and two other rooms so we had some company. The hostel istelf was ramshackle, but everyone staying there had a good time, and the staff was very courteous.

We also highly recommend the Pub Crawl from the Colosseum, it was a lot of fun to mingle with about 100 tourists from around Europe, the U.S. and the Australian area. Be sure to know how to get home even if you are a little tipsy. We also bought a combo ticket for the Colosseum and Palatine hill and it was well worth it. Definitely don't buy your tickets there, the line looked huge.

Be careful with the trains, we took the wrong one from Rome to Elba and it took forever. Take the Inter City train, it makes fewer stops. If you go to Elba, remember to get off the train at Campiglia and hop the train to Piombino. We didn't know that and almost missed it.
Dean Pogatchnik <email>
Coon Rapids, MN USA 11/29/03

2004 edition updates
Recently got back and here are some updates from the 2004 (blue cover) edition of the book.

1) Metro prices have increased. A single ride is 1 euro, day pass costs 4 euros, and a week is 16 euros. A few other places have already raised prices, the only place to decrease is the Capitol Hill Museum down by 20 euro cents.

2) The door from Capitol Hill to the Victor Emmanuel monument may be closed. I tried it and the door was locked; as I was leaving two Italians came up found it locked and started banging on the door. A few minutes later a guard opened the door, they talked, and the guys left.

3) For bypassing lines at the Colosseum by buying a ticket at the Palatine Hill: No one knows what the "combo card" is; ask for the "archaeology card." Also with the card at most places you still need to get a regular ticket. Show the archaeology card and they will mark off the sight and give you an entrance card. The Colosseum and Palatine Hill use the orginal card.

4) Ostia Antica is well worth it. However the map on page 49 is incorrect. The train that goes there is in the same building as the metro. As you go up the stairs, look to the left and you will see the tracks. Also go further into the ruins then Rick's guide does, there are a lot more interesting ruins such as the docks and other things.

Additional comments:

1) When buying from steet peddlers (they are everywhere) you can get most things for about 1/2 what they originally offer, and they are worth less then that.

2) Unlike most places in Italy, there are things to do in Rome after 5 pm. The churches and some museums often stay open past 7 pm.

3) Do not waste your time going to Pompeii from Rome, unless you stay a night. Besides the long train ride from Rome to Naples, you will be waiting and traveling on other trains to get to the sight. Expect to spend a good 7-8 hours waiting for and riding on trains. It's not good for a day trip. Besides, you miss out on seeing the volcano, Vesuvius. There are some tours that leave Rome early in the morning (by bus) and so can spend a decent amount of time and see the major sights.

Some restaurants mentioned in the book: Ristarante alla Rampa (near the Spanish Steps) is far from moderate. Expect a min of 20 euros with no wine; for a 3 course meal, expect at least 30 euros plus beverage; most items cost around 10-13 euros. Their self service antipasto is a nice bar (an upper level salad bar, look it over); also their veal with gorgonzola and the fried artichokes are excellent.

The Ristorante da Fortunato (near the Pantheon) is really good. Definitely upper class, some men in ties but many without. The 30 euros will get you a really nice dinner (more expensive with wine).

Ristorante da Giovanni is a lot better then mentioned. It is a smaller local-filled place (so get there early, it was full by 7:45 pm). While the food does not compare to the above places, it is the kind of restaurant you would regularly go to if you lived nearby. Good 3 course meals with house wine cost less the 15 euros per person.
Will Dieterich <email>
USA 11/29/03

Best Walking Tour in Rome
I have been traveling around the world for one year and am currently in Europe for 4 months. I recently went on 3 great walking tours with Roman Odyssey Tours. They are the best tours i have experienced in Europe, with the exception of the Third Reich Tour in Berlin (also recommended by your book). I hope that you share with others these great tours in Rome. Thank you.
Jennifer Potthoff <email>
New York, NY USA 11/24/03

Residenza Zanardelli & Restaurants
We stayed at the Residenza Zanardelli. I had booked it based on National Geographic Traveler's description of "no bad rooms" (before Rick's 2003 book was published). Most of the rooms were nice and very clean, but two rooms were very small. Unit 1 was extremely small. Difficult to stay in for a week. There were no hooks or shelves to place any of your toiletries. In fact, the showers had no soap or shampoo trays. It was very difficult. You had to place your soap and shampoo on the toilet or the floor and reach out to use them. The owner was a real sourpuss, but the staff was very nice. It was an excellent location and value.

After walking around the Pantheon for an hour to find Osteria da Mario, we returned to tourist booth at the north entrance of the Piazza Navona. We were instructed to go east from the booth under the arch for a few blocks until we reached Piazza delle Coppelle. It took us less than five minutes from the Navona. The restaurant was filled with Rick Steve readers and all of us had trouble finding the place. I think that you should orientate the directions from Piazza Navona. It was so easy. It was worth the confusion, as were most of Rick's restaurant recommendations. At the Ristorante der Pallaro, we received a great big hug and kiss from "Mama" when she found that we were there because of Rick's book.
Kathy Meade <email>
Coram, NY USA 11/22/03

Rome accomodations and dining
Just returned from a 12 day trip to Italy and used Rick's book in addition to the Lonely Planet. Hotel Italia (in Rick's book) was small and sparse but clean and the staff was OK. The location was it's selling point. One problem: we stayed for 2 nights at the beginning of our trip and booked one night at the end. When we arrived to check in for our last night they informed us that they had overbooked and sent us to Hotel St. Moritz. Do not go to this hotel - it was dirty and moldy and the entire place smelled of cigarette smoke. When we complained to Hotel Italia they sent us to another hotel: Hotel Selene. This was a fabulous hotel and I wish we had stayed there the whole time. It's on the 3rd and 4th floors of 8 Via del Viminale. Close to Termini and Republicca metro stops, friendly and helpful staff, and the whole 4th floor has just been refurbished so ask for a room there. Biggest plus for a couple: they have "real" queen sized beds, not just 2 pushed together!
Mary <email>
Mount Laurel, NJ USA 11/18/03

Rome
Just returned from 2 weeks in Italy with 6 nights in Rome. Here are our comments/suggestions:

Train from Fiumicino airport to Termini train station was very easy and convenient (9 euros.) Our hotel was near Via Firenze, which was a 10-minute walk from train station. Helpful information/booking staff at train station.

Rome is a very walkable city. Most sights can be reached on foot in a reasonable amount of time. We only used the Metro once, to get to the Vatican/St. Peters. Buy your metro tickets at the nearest newsstand, as not all the stations have ticket counters. Some have machines, but you need the exact change.

As far as general security, we were surprised to not see any gypsies, panhandlers, or pickpockets. After reading all the postings here, we were indeed prepared, and of course always wear moneybelts. We really saw no one that even looked suspicious.

Took only 1 tour, which was an Illuminated Bus Tour of Rome through Carrani Tours. Was nice to see Rome all lit up, and during the tour, got to visit parts of the city we might not have otherwise seen. It was 35 euros per person, and almost 2 hours with stops at Trevi Fountain and St. Peter's Square.

Regarding the Colosseum tickets, cannot advise strongly enough to buy your tickets at Palatine Hill and not at the Colosseum itself. Around 10:30 am, the line at the Colosseum was at least 1.5-2 hours long. We followed Rick's instructions and went to the Palatine, and there were only 3 people in line in front of us. We walked 5 min back to the Colosseum and completely bypassed the line and got right in! Also, don't buy any food or snacks right outside the Colosseum: way too expensive. They wanted 22 euros for a sandwich, 2 drinks, and some chips...needless to say, we didn't do it. Always, always, ask how much first when purchasing anything from a vendor. Follow Rick's advice and take a picnic or some snacks in your daypack to refuel.

Note that bathrooms were a bit scare by the Colosseum. One in Rick's book was out of order/closed. Next closest one is across the street at the Metro stop.

Vatican museum/St. Peters: go early! We got a late start that morning, and it was extremely crowded. We were shoulder to shoulder with hundreds in the Sistine Chapel--it was like a herd of cattle going through, with everyone looking up at the ceiling! We kind of rushed through, and at one point in the Raphael Rooms, the guards would not let you stop and look because it was so crowded-they kept saying "no stopping; keep moving". Allow all day for Vatican and St. Peters to do it right. We spent about 1.5 hours in St. Peter's Basilica, and could have stayed longer.

The Borghese Gallery was a must see and is well worth the time. You must have reservations. We booked our tickets on the internet about a month ahead. When we arrived, our reservation was in the computer, they punched out our tickets, and in we went. Visits are limited to 2 hours, and it will take every bit of that. They also have a small snack bar and very nice bookstore downstairs. Grounds are beautiful for a picnic.

Try to visit as many of the little churches as possible. Rick has a lot of them in his book. They are all gems, and the artwork is quite unbelievable. Don't worry about taking pictures; just sit and enjoy.

Restaurants that we enjoyed: Target (Via Torino 33) was very good and had reasonable prices. House red wine was good. We ate there 3 times, and sat at a table outside our last night.

Flann O'Brien's Irish Pub (Via Nationale 17) was excellent. Best "non-Italian" food. This is the place to go if you miss having a steak! Lots of beer choices. For dessert, ask for "Grandma's cake"... it's their specialty. There was a rowdy group of Englishmen in the pub, and it was a lot of fun.

Dagnino's (in Rick's book) was pretty expensive for what we got. For 2 small plates of pasta, 1 small salad, and 2 drinks, it was 22 euros for lunch.

A restaurant recommendation from our hotel was Colline Emiliane, Via Degli Avignonese. It was wonderful. Small restaurant with locals; only 15 tables. 10 minute walk from Via Firenze hotels. Excellent spaghetti with tomato sauce. Reservations needed; your hotel can make them for you.

There are many small shops all over that sell pizza by the slice; a great idea for a quick lunch or snack, and very easy on the budget. The pizzeria and self-service cafeteria in the Vatican museum are a good value also.

Saving the best for last: Hotel Residenza Cellini (www.residenzacellini.it) We found this hotel from Rick's Rome 2003 edition. Cellini surpasses anything we've ever experienced during our 4 trips to Europe. The hotel itself is beautiful and extremely well-appointed. The six rooms are very generous in size and have a homey feel about them. The breakfast was very generous, and the personal service was excellent. Most importantly, the owners and staff were genuinely friendly, helpful, and accommodating far beyond any of our expectations. They spent a lot of time helping us plan our time, making sure that we knew what to see and what restaurants were best. Barbara, Donato, Gaetano, and Pietro are the nicest people we have ever met. We never felt like hotel guests; they made us feel like part of their family. We simply cannot recommend this hotel enough; you just have to experience it to understand what we mean.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact us. We will also be posting some information on Tuscany & Umbria shortly under the "Italy" book section. Ciao!
Lori & Jack Hopp <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 11/18/03

Roman & Italian B&B, Rome
We just returned from a fabulous 2 weeks in Italy. We spent the first few days in Roma and stayed at the Roman & Italian B&B (www.italianbandb.com) with Marco and his lovely family. I found them from previous comments posted here, and Marco was a great host and very accomodating and helpful. The downside is a shared bath and loud traffic, but that's Roma for you. Highly recommended. It was excellent and affordable and had a unique charm. Don't miss out on seeing Marco, his wife Carlotta and their new pride and joy David! Ciao!
Janet Syslo <email>
Omaha, NE USA 11/18/03

Hotel Smeraldo is great!
Hotel Smeraldo was the best travel deal I have ever run across. It truly is centrally located in the old city, right off Campo d' Fiori and you can easily walk to all the sights: Vatican, Trastevere, Colosseum, Pantheon, Forum Via Corso for shopping. I stayed in a charming single with my own rooftop terrace for $75 a night for six nights! Every other room I looked into was nicely sized. It is obssessively clean. The desk staff is fantastic. The guys aren't the "Italian grannies" some people might like to be hosted by during their stay, but they're helpful, efficient and kind (Walter on the night shift gave me a good bottle of Prosecco the night before I left.)

The Smeraldo Web site is www.smeraldoroma.com. I cross-referenced this hotel before I left on Frommers.com, tripadvisor.com, and back stories from the New York Times. It universally got great reviews. I was puzzled as to why there were only a few comments on this web site (it is recommended in Rick's Rome 2004), but in the end I was glad for the cross-section of guests who seem to stay there (students to businesspeople.)

The Smeraldo is a good-looking hotel, clean as heck, a great deal and you just can't ask for a more charming location (except perhaps Hotel Santa Maria in Trastavere, which I checked out. It looks fantastic. Next time I may stay there). I checked out some "RS" hotels around Via Firenze and can't imagine why anyone would want to stay up there, or anywhere near the train station (yuck), when you can be in old Rome for such a deal. With choices like these, why stay anywhere else?

If you go, check out the great coffee place two steps across the street (it is in one of those tiny, winding alley-sized streets you find the centers of European cities), the bakery around the corner, and the specialty deli/wine bar near that. There also is a bank down the block for cheap money changing and Bancomat, and an "Internet Point" across the square. And it's around the corner from a fabulous shoe/boot "Stock House," an off-price outlet for incredible quality shoes (I bought four pair.)

Also, go in the off-season! That accounts for my $400 plane ticket, great hotel prices, short lines at sights. And I had GREAT weather - warm and sunny every day but one. Ciao!
Jeanne <email>
Nashville, TN USA 11/17/03

Roman Odyssey Tours
Roman Odyssey offers 3 wonderful tours of Rome - The Vatican City Tour, The Ancient City Tour, and the Rome City Tour. The first one that we went on (Vatican City) was so good that we were compelled to go on the other two. We were not disappointed. All of the tour guides were educated, well-spoken and informative. They arrived at the appointed meeting time and spent plenty of time answering questions, during and after the tours. Since the Italian people are not particularly obliged to learn or speak English, these tours were wonderful for us. In general we found Roman signage to be lacking and Roman Odyssey covered all the gaps to these particular sights.

The Vatican City Tour was priceless. It covers the Sistine Chapel, the Gallery of Maps, the Halls of Raphael, St. Peter's Basilica, The Gallery of Tapestries and the Vatican Museums and much more.

The Ancient City Tour covers the Colosseum, The Temple of Caesar, The House of the Senate, the Arch of Constantine, the home of the Vestal Virgins and more.

The Rome City Tour is an evening tour the covers the Pantheon, the Piazza Navona, The Trevi Fountain, The house of Mussolini, the Victor Emmanuel Monument and the best gelato shop in Rome.

If you are going to Rome and speak English, do not miss hooking up with Roman Odyssey.
Meryl Osse <email>
East Stroudsburg, PA USA 11/16/03

58 Le Real de Luxe: good/cheap place in Rome
We stayed at 58viacavour in Rome. Very central location, within walking distance to many sights (Piaza di Spagna, Colosseo, etc). Clean, sleeps two easily, bathroom with modern appliances (i.e. shower, toilet, sink), breakfast room with fridge, espresso coffee, tables and chairs. The room had a king size bed, wardrobe, tv with cable, small balcony. Highly recommended for anyone who want to be in great location. Area has a market in daytime, lots of restaurants, nightlife (i.e. bars, wine bars), gelateria, shops, bakery, grocery store, butcher shop, etc. It feels like you are "living in Rome" since you are in a building filled with locals and living in their neighborhood. Much better than staying in a 3 star hotel. And the area is central and perfect. A great place.
eric <email>
NY, USA 11/14/03

Rome
Returned last week from a trip to Rome, Lucca, & Florence. Sometimes used Rick's 2003 guidebook recommendations, including a stay at the Aberdeen Hotel in Rome. Perhaps if we'd been there another time of year, we would have enjoyed it (liked the location, the quiet, & free computer access in the lobby). However, there was no heat in our very, very small room and it was quite cold, although the lobby and halls were warm. We were told the heat wouldn't be turned on until mid November "to cut down on pollution." Sometimes we propped open our door to get a bit of heat from the hallway & I slept with a sweater on (in addition to the extra blanket we asked for). It was a welcome relief to go to our next hotel in Lucca, which had heat!

We loved the nearby Chinese restaurant Rick recommended: excellent Chinese food (they also serve Italian style, which we didn't try) at very reasonable prices. Ate there twice. The Ciao Restaurant at the Termini Station in Rome was OK. Just use the microwave (by the tap water glasses) to heat up the food as it's sometimes lukewarm.

Discovered the wonderful Octagonal Hall at Rome's Baths of Diocletian is permanently closed as "they can't find anyone to run it" (according to someone at the tourist bureau).

Susan <email>
Fremont, CA USA 11/13/03

A few updates on Rome 2004
Just returned from Rome using Rick's 2004 Rome guide. Really a good book with great tips. A few things have changed already:

1. Bus/Metro ticket is now 1 Euro

2. Colosseum/Palentine Hill ticket has increased to 10 Euros

3. Roman Forum has an audioguide, but not available from the gift shop. Rather, it is available from the Entrance from Colosseum.

4. Pompeii has a detailed map and small information booklet (with brief descriptions on each numbered site) that is free. With that and an audioguide, I don't think there is a need to buy other guidebooks. Before you buy your ticket, stop by the info window. They give out free "coupons" for entry for several buildings. You won't be able to enter those unless you show the guards your "coupons". The House of the Vetii is still closed, to my disappointment.

5. Definitely use a money belt. Even though I was not targeted, everywhere I looked there were "suspicious-looking" people. Rome gets very crowded (such as the Metro, and sites like the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain) and makes it easy for pickpockets.
yuen <email>
Philadelphia, PA USA 11/13/03

Rome - Hotel Hardizzi Americana
Hotel Nardizzi Americana is being updated with "new rooms" being added in November 2003. The hotel is clean, within walking range of the train station and a number of the main sights. Managment ("Mario") is helpful but make sure you mention Rick's book when you make your reservation as people hear you requesting the Rick Steves rate at the desk and he can't give it to you.
Rick Warner <email>
Seattle, WA USA 11/12/03

Repeat After Rick - Use Your Money Belt!
The incident below is yet another example of why you should always always always keep your large amounts of cash, credit cards and other important documents in a money belt safely tucked inside your clothes. Feel free to keep anything replaceble in a handbag, wallet or fanny pack(maps, umbrella, inexpensive camera, even small amounts of cash), but know that professional theives like the ones you describe just LOVE it when they can find a jackpot like money and credit cards inside!!
Renee Blanchard
CO USA 11/11/03

Metro Alert
Visited Rome the first week of November, 2003 and was victimized by professional theives. At the police station, where I was making out the report, I encountered two others who were also robbed in the same manner. On a crowded Meto (line A)at rush hour, a clean cut, rather overweight, couple forced there way on. Three of us (my wife, mother-in-law and I)were holding on to a pole near the door in super close quarters. With the women clutching there handbags it appears that one person, probably the man, sliced into my mother-in-law's handbag with a sharp knife. The woman then slipped her hand inside and grabbed cash and credit cards. They quickly jumped off at the next stop. We didn't realize we were robbed until we reached our stop. Thanks to the handy international Visa and Mastercard numbers Rick has in the Rome tour book, we were able to cancel the numbers in less than an hour. It appears that they target middle aged women holding handbags so please be careful.
C. Most <email>
Pittsburgh, PA USA 11/10/03

Smart B&B
The best bed and breakfast to stay at in Rome is the Smart B&B on Via Farina. It is in the center of the city, within walking distance to the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon. Near good restaurants and right by the main train station. Owned by a cute Asian couple who are very nice and the place is immaculate. About 70 euros a night including a breakfast that she sets out in your room. They make the bed and give you a change of linens everyday! Very safe and very awesome. I would recommend the Smart B&B to anyone visiting Rome.
Carrie <email>
Boston, MA USA 11/10/03

Staying at the Aberdeen
We stayed at the Aberdeen last year for an entire month and only a very few guests were Americans. Rick's guidebooks are available in most of Europe, including Roma, so just because they had the book doesn't necessarily mean they were Americans. We go to Italy almost every year and in Roma we have two favorie hotels. The least expensive and most friendly and helpful is the Aberdeen.
Charles M. Luther
Katy, TX USA 10/30/03

Hotel Aberdeen
My wife and I travelled to Italy in September 2003 and had a wonderful time, mainly using the Rick Steves guidebook. In Rome we stayed in Hotel Aberdeen. It was very nice, and the people running the hotel were most helpful. One small disappointment, however, was that everyone else at the hotel was using the Rick Steves book, and were from the U.S. In other cities the hotel population was more diverse, but at Aberdeen, all English, all the time. If that is what makes you comfortable, stay there. If you would rather soak up a little more culture, or share breakfast with people from somewhere other than the U.S., you may want to try somewhere else.
Aaron Miller
Boiling Springs, SC USA 10/29/03

Rome - Residenza Cellini
My wife and I just got from four wonderful days in Rome; with that limited amount of time, Rick's book was invaluable in helping us prioritize what to see. Probably most helpful was his recommendation of the Residenza Cellini -- after a day in the crowded, roaring chaos of Rome (it was the week of the Pope's 25th anniversary), it was an oasis of tranquillity and calm, with beautiful decor and the most courteous, delightful innkeepers imaginable. When we told Gaetano we had an early flight, he went to great pains to find us a hotel near the airport, calling several places to get us a good deal. On our last day at the Cellini we left our luggage while we went sightseeing, and when we returned, Barbara insisted on making us a cup of coffee and treating us like guests in her home. And Donato helped us with restaurants, including the astounding gelato at the Sicilian pastry shop. Our trip to Rome was pure pleasure, but Rome is very intense, and it's really nice to have a quiet place to escape to.
Dave & Alexis <email>
Burbank, CA USA 10/28/03

Food, Hotel, Sights
Your book is great. Hotel Pensione Italia was PERFECT and we followed many of your recomendations. Here are some updates to the info in your book:

1. The restaurant "Target" (Via Nazionale Area) was EXCELLENT and theservice was great. Their seafood salad was outstanding; we came back twice to have it.

2.Pasticeria Dagnino in the Via Nazionale area was NOT good. Service (by the one and only waiter, Maurizio) was terrible and the pastries were not fresh.

3.The Colosseum and Palatine Hill are now closing at 3:30 pm on Sundays. We were disappointed along with about 50 other Rick Steves readers...you are one popular guy.
Alba Tellez <email>
Dallas, TX USA 10/28/03

Hotel Paba
My wife and I recently spent 6 wonderful nights at the Hotel Paba!! Mrs. Castelli was the gracious, very helpful hostess that others have commented upon in the past. The hotel's location is perfect -- so close to the Colisseum and right on useful bus routes. Only suggestion to other guests -- ask for a room that does not face Via Cavour.
Gene Mattocks <email>
Sacramento, CA USA 10/22/03

Personal Guide in Milan
We took Rick's advice and hired Lorenza Scorti as our private guide. She met us at our hotel,having already obtained reservations to the Last Supper, spoke great English and really knows the local history. We can highly recommend her. She can be contacted by email at lorenza.scorti@libero.it. You will be glad you met her!
Marilyn & Dennis <email>
Las Vegas, NVMet USA 10/19/03

Due Notte in Roma
Spent the last two nights of our trip in Rome. Eurostar train from Firenze to Roma was smooth,fast, and the countryside views were spectacular. The Hotel Spring House near the Vatican Museum was a great refuge from the crowds of the city - great breakfast, clean room, grocery store nearby. Enjoyed the food so much at Antonio's Hostaria dei Bastoni that we went there both nights. My wife raved about the house special pasta, and I enjoyed the pasta fajoli soup. Tiramasu was a great dessert, but we cheated and got Gelato too on our walk home. Thoroughly enjoyed St. Peter's, the Vatican museum, tivoli fountain at night, and a daytime stroll through the forum. The Pantheon was facinating. Subway was useful but crowded; on one ride my rear end was hit by the closing subway door, we were so packed in. Great recommendations, Rick!
Herb <email>
Crescent Springs KY 41017, KY USA 10/15/03

Accessing the Vatican Museums
While the Cipro stop may seem convenient for the Vatican Museums, be aware that you will encounter a mass of steps (for those with weak knees) between the metro exit and the Vatican Museum entrance, and on certain days, may well walk back almost to St. Peter's to find the end of the line waiting to get into the museum, blocks away.
J Burt <email>
Chicago, IL USA 10/14/03

Great Rome Hotels
Hotel Aberdeen was very nice. I didn't expect to find a quiet hotel in Rome but this one was and for a reasonable price as well. The breakfast was nothing special but the staff were extremely helpful and it was just a 10 minute walk from the train station. I'd definitely go back.
Ben Humphrey <email>
Seattle, WA USA 10/11/03

Limo/Train Rates from Airport
The rate by train, which leaves every 20 minutes during the day from the airport to Termini or Tiburtina, is E8.50 per person and you do not have to worry about sudden "additional fees" for taking you to your hotel or extra for bags or the vague "personal services". And never, NEVER, accept the deals from taxi, limo, bus personnel etc. who come running up to you as you exit Customs. They will ALWAYS be more expensive. E40-60 is the usual and fair fee for private limo service directly to your hotel from the airport or vice versa. The rate should agreed to IN ADVANCE.
Charles M. Luther
USA 10/09/03

Hotel Paba
We stayed at Hotel Paba in Rome and I was so touched by how sweet Alberta was, that I want to officially adopt her as my Italian Grandma! She is so helpful and caring, and since Rome was our first stop, it set a great tone for our vacation. We stayed in lots of hotels and B & B's but I know now that it is the PEOPLE who run them, that make them special. Hotel Paba is really nice and clean and the rooms were perfect, but it was Alberta who made it unforgettable. I'll go back to Rome and stay there! The pastries across the street are the BEST we had on our whole trip! AMAZING! I still dream about the one called Veneziana - try it, you'll love it! www.hotelpaba.com It's in Rick's book too. :)
Gail Swanson <email>
Kihei, HI USA 10/03/03

Hotel & Food Choices
Stayed at Hotel Paba and the owners were perfect hosts. Room had all conveniences. The hotel now uses the patisserie across street for breakfast and this offers a wider selection of pastries and beverages.

Wanted to eat overlooking Coliseum and owner endorsed Rick's recommendation of Ostaria da Nerone. In three weeks in Italy, we had our only mediocre food there. The waiter's suggestion for white wine was barely drinkable, although we had not set a price range. One secondi was not what we ordered and when the right dish finally arrived, the other person had finished. The insalata mista was only greens and a few carrot discs. And there was no way to see the Coliseum from the outdoor tables.

Around the corner from the Paba, try the Ristorante Cleto instead. It is the last outdoor restaurant on the same side of the street as Paba towards the Forum. It's good and fairly priced. We also ate at nearby Ristorante La Taverna degli Amici where the food and ambience were quite good but the bill came to 90 Euros. At the Spanish Steps, Caffe Leonardo (next door to Alla Rampa) has excellent pizza. For an early flight, a taxi from the Paba is good idea but plan to spend 75 Euros on it.
B. Crislip <email>
Tampa, FL USA 10/03/03

Residence San Pantaleo
Because they were booked up, we stayed in a one bedroom apartment that Residence San Pantaleo runs, for 100 Euro a night, AC included. Their email said for us to take the bus from the train station to the second stop on Via Emmanuele II, then walk several block with our luggage to Residence San Pantaleo where a staff member would "transfer" us to the the apartment. This "transfer" consisted of a big healthy guy leading us on foot back past the bus stop and several blocks beyond, with us hauling our bags the whole way by ourselves. The guy didn't even offer to help us carry anything. The room itself had lamps that would not work and a hot water heater that was barely big enough for one person. The location, however, was outstanding, being near Piazza Navona and the Pantheon.
Michael
Seattle, USA 10/02/03

Rome
WE just got back from a Rome to Sorrento trip. We found Rome full of wonderful history but also full pollution. However a few experiences made it wonderful.

Residenza Cellini, and it's staff were great. The service was top notch-I felt like I had a private concierge.

Rome Walks Tours were very good. Our guide Cynthia was an energetic and pleasant american living in Rome. She was flexible re the pace and information presented. Also the groups were very small.

Rick is correct re taxis in Rome-they were inexpensive and convenient. I'd recommend them over bus or metro.
Heather Scullin <email>
Westlake, OH USA 10/01/03

Antica Locanda dei Mercanti
Bad experience at Antica Locanda dei Mercanti. Since this hotel was mentioned in several guides, I was very excited to stay here. What a huge disappointment. The hotel is located on the second floor. When I entered, that was disappointment #1. The small lobby was very dated. The carpet was old and smelled musty. I still thought that I shouldn't judge them until I saw our room. Unfortunately, our room was not quite ready, so the young woman told us we could have a larger room (which was ready) for 200 euros per night instead of 180 euros for our room. Because of the extra room, we decided on the larger room.

However, we come to find that the ceiling fan was not working and when we questioned the front desk, they told us that all the fans were not working and the electrician was on holiday. The weather outside was very warm, so the fact that they seemed so nonchalant about the fans perplexed me. Later in the day, when our room was even warmer we told the older woman at the front desk that it was too hot and when we made the reservations we were counting on the fan working. I asked also if we could be moved to another quieter room, as ours was very noisy. The woman would not even give us eye contact and said this is the time of year that the fans are turned off so they were not going to work anyway. Then she said she would try to move us, but they were fully booked. She was not going to help us out, we could tell.

I have stayed in all types of accommodations in the past, but this goes down in my book as the worst experience. This hotel is odd. It has different levels as you walk down the hall - not good for elderly or disabled folks. Our room was decorated okay, but the bathroom was really small and old. The carpet in our room was unfinished and chopped off. To top if off, my friend and I got mosquito bites because we had left our windows open since the fan didn't work. I'm still trying to figure out why I've read good reviews of this hotel. Never again will I stay here. I don't want others to have the same expectations I had about this place, only to be so disappointed in the end.
Arleen Nakamura <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA 09/30/03

Residenza Cellini
I loved this hotel. Not only is it a small boutique hotel, but it is charming, sophisticated and inviting. After you take the lift to the 3rd floor, you are greeted by one of the staff (Gaetano, Donato, Barbara or Goran) who are all so nice and helpful. The room (ours was the Junior Suite Double) was such a good deal since we used the Rick Steve's discount. It had two beds, armoires, tv and even an extra day bed which could accommodate another person. I was thrilled when I saw the bathroom: it was large, with beautiful tile and a jacuzzi tub. The location couldn't be better. The metro is about 3 minutes away and the train station is within walking distance. After a long day of sightseeing, it was always wonderful to come back to the air-conditioned (yes, it works well) room and relax. I can't wait to go back to Rome and stay at this hotel again. What a great experience.
Arleen Nakamura <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA 09/30/03

Unlicensed guide
We recently stayed in Rome and we took a tour with an unlicensed guide. He was an American student. Unfortunately, the police stopped him in the Roman Forum. We lost all day at the police station trying to explain where and how we met him. We really suggest you always make sure any private guides are licensed so as to avoid trouble. I suggest that Rick mention this problem in his book.
Epperson Dirk Alan
Los Angeles, CA USA 09/29/03

Walking Tours in Rome
We just returned from Rome and while there took a couple of fantastic walking tours that were informative and fun -- the guides shared a zillion details that one never finds in the typical guidebook.

We took Saturnalia Tours' "Rome at Dusk" led by one of the owners, Mike, who was fantastic. No website yet, but you can reach them at saturnaliawalks@yahoo.com

The other walking tour we used was with Three Millennia Tours, a group that also leads free tours at San Pietro's Basilica -- and you can find them at www.threemillennia.com. Both tour groups were fantastic. Now if only one of them will start something similar in Florence.
leesa <email>
Los Gatos, CA USA 09/25/03

Picture Rock near Colosseum
I've done several trips to Rome, and although there are several great places to go and see, there is one spot I'd recommend for a great photo. It's a rock located a little ways from the Colosseum, and it affords the best opportunity for a fantastic picture, with just about the whole Colosseum in the background. It can't be seen from the Colosseum itself, so most people don't know about it, but it's worth the 3 minute walk to get the photo. It's not uncommon to see wedding photos being taken there.

Go to my website: www.rikthib.com/rome.htm. The fourth picture down is one I took at the rock a few years back. Next to the picture, you'll see the link to the map, just click on it. It's in Powerpoint format. My apologies to those who haven'tbeen able to access the map link as my website has been down for maintenance. The site is back up now, so you should have no trouble getting the map. Please let me know if anyone has trouble accessing it.

It makes a great memento for anyone going to Rome. If anyone has gotten good pictures as a result of the map, feel free to email me. I'd love to see some so I know that my efforts haven't been in vain. Buona Fortuna!
Rik Thibodeau <email>
Vicenza, IT 09/19/03

Rome Accomodations & Sights
My husband and I recently returned from a 2 week vacation in Italy. We spent the first 3 nights of our trip in Rome. We felt very safe and did not have any bad encounters. We saw police at most major squares in the evenings.

We stayed at Hotel Esmeraldo near the Campo di Fiori (90 euros/nt during August). Air-conditioning, cable TV, friendly and helpful staff. We stayed in room with a bath which was very clean but also very, very small. The double pane windows kept the room quiet. The location was within comfortable walking distance to most all the major sites.

We took a tour of the Colosseum with Paolo for 17.50 euros including admission to the the Colosseum & Palatine Hills. The tour took about 1 hour and was informative and fun. Someone just asked us if we'd like to take an English speaking tour. We wanted to take a tour anyhow and thought we'd look for one once we arrived at the site but it found us first. We took a chance and it was well worth it!

Chicago, IL USA 09/11/03

Hotel Aberdeen in Rome
I wanted to let readers know that the Hotel Aberdeen was just as Rick describes. Good location, inexpensive and air conditioned! It was like a desert oasis from the brutal August heat. Also the free internet point in the lobby is nice too.
Joann <email>
Union Grove, WI USA 09/11/03

Magic Hotel
Just returned from Italy - Rick Steves' Rome was pretty much on point but with one major exception. The only thing "magical" about the Hotel Magic is how it ended up as a recommendation! I had reservations for six nights but left after two (including a sleepless second night due to heat and screaming children outside my door at 1 am). The hotel is a third floor walk-up with nothing special about the rooms (marble floors), minimal air conditioning, tiny hotel soaps (no shampoo) and a very cold and unhelpful staff that tore into me when I awakened them at midnight because THEIR key broke in half in the door lock and I couldn't get in.

Breakfast not served until 8:30 in the morning. Staff kept asking for cash payment although they advertise credit cards (under NO circumstances was I going to pay these people cash). There was absolutely nothing magical about this hotel other than a good location two blocks from Termini. The best decision I made in Rome was to relocate to the Hotel Villa del Rose, two blocks away. Great air conditioning, high ceilings, a wonderful breakfast (starts at 7:00!), a most helpful and courteous staff with 24 hour desk. And the room rate was the SAME as the Hotel Magic. I give the Hotel Magic one star; the Villa del Rose three stars at the same price.

Other things I loved about Rome: the Spanish Steps and the area around it; the Restaurant Sabbatini in the Trastevere section (Rick was right on; this is the most happening part of Rome); street crime on subway (heard of several tourists being ripped off on this hot, very crowded conveyance. Worst experience apart from hotel was being ripped off on exchanging money at the Termini. I changed $300 US into 227 Euros; they kept $48 in commission. If you need to change money, go to either banks or the change shops on the side streets three blocks away. Most charge NO commission and they give you a better rate. We took Eurostar fast trains to Venice, Florence and Naples - well worth it!
Robin Grover <email>
Alexandria, VA USA 09/07/03

Musical Rooms at Daphne B&B
I stayed at Daphne Bed & Breakfast on the recommendation of one of my friends who had stayed there last summer. When my friend stayed there is was a 3 room B&B and she loved it. Now Daphne has 2 locations and I think they are suffering from the expansion.

The warm hospitality my friend experienced was nonexistant during our stay. Plus, we were moved twice during our 5 night stay to other rooms with no warning. The staff packed up our bags and moved us into different rooms - each one smaller than the next!

Our first room was very large with a couch. Than came a smaller room without a couch and finally a room that was so small there was barely a place to walk around the bed. Plus the free-standing closet in the last room was so tiny we couldn't even but most of our clothes in it. What was really aggrevating is there was no compensation for the move to the smaller rooms! We won't be staying at Daphne during our trip next summer.
Karen L. <email>
London, UK 09/03/03

Daphne B&B
The Daphne was very disappointing! We read about the great customer service but we were really disappointed. After check in, the hosts are not available. We were given a cell phone to use during our stay and were told we would only be charged for calls we made (fair enough). The problem is there is never anyone around to provide the service promised us. We had to call the host on the cell phone to talk to them and then ended up paying for the cost of the calls. The ONLY calls we made were to Elisa, the owner. This doesn't seem reasonable to me, we basically had to pay for customer service. Elisa made a big deal how wonderful is was for them to provide a cell phone for the customers - why? Who are you going to call in Rome unless you speak Italian? Calling home - use a prepaid phone card, much cheaper! She offered to do all this stuff for us but we had to call her several times to follow up on our requests. When she offers to make a restaurant reservation or a museum reservation I would like to know more than 2 hours before the appointed time (which has been requested days in advance) that the reservation has been made. I don't think this is unreasonable!
Danielle <email>
Seattle, WA USA 08/25/03

Residenza Cellini
This is a charming, quiet little hotel located in the heart of the bustling streets of Rome. I truly enjoyed every aspect of my stay. First, the location is excellent. The hotel is located within walking distance of many historical sights and it is conveniently located near the metro stop.

Second, the rooms and bathrooms are quiet, tastefully decorated, and equipped with modern conveniences. (The air conditioning was a godsend during the July heat wave, and the Jacuzzi was a blessing after a long day of sight seeing)

Third, and most important, was the high level of service and attention given to guests. The staff is absolutely wonderful and they go out of their way to answer any questions and make you feel at home. I've stayed in 4 star hotels in Italy and none measure up to the hospitality of Residenza Cellini. At the last minute, I had to change the length of my stay and my room due to a death in the family. The staff made me a highly reasonable price adjustment on our original agreement. Also, they helped me procure safe and reliable transportation to the airport. I highly recommend Resedenza Cellini to all travelers. The rooms are well worth the price and you know that you will be well taken care of. I plan on returning to Resedenza Cellini on my next visit to Rome!
Rose <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA 08/22/03

Rome - Hotel Montreal, etc.
We stayed at Hotel Montreal - the best hotel experience for the whole trip! The place is run by two guys - fluent English, great sense of humor. No discounts for cash, but 90.00 € is a really decent price to pay for the luxury we got there! Perfect view to the inner yard, very quiet and nice. Breakfast included. There is air-cond., TV, blow-dryer and a fridge in the room. At arrival we got a perfect map of the city with the metro scheme and a guidebook "Rome" (6.50 € value) absolutely free.

If you decide to stay there, take a metro - your station is "V.Emanuele" (next after Termini) and exit to Via C. Alberto. In a few meters you'll find the hotel. Don't try to buy your metro/bus tickets at the machines in the metro - most of them do not work. Also, you'll need an exact change - 0.77 € (not 0.80 as per the book) - tough one! Go to a tabacchi kiosk instead. I would recommend to buy 3.10 (not 3.25 as per the book) all day pass - great value - just hop-on, hop-off whenever you need to go somewhere.

Rome is a huge city - you cannot only walk through it if you want to see at least a small part of it! The stories about Roman thieves are greatly exaggerated - relax and enjoy the great city of fountains, for 5 days that we were there nobody even tried to approach us (or anybody else around us). Be cautious only when you cross the street - no rules there, especially for the scooters!

Paying 7.75 € for the orientation tour on #110 bus to see the city is a bad idea - the guide spoke in Italian and then in English. However, her English was so bad, that I couldn't understand when she switched from one language to another. The trip lasted about 90 minutes. It's better to buy 3.10-bus pass, and do it yourself with your guidebook in hand.

If you arrive at Ciampino Airport, do not take a taxi - it'll cost you about 40.00 €. Take a bus (1.00 €, you need to validate the ticket inside the bus) to the final stop - Anangnina (pronounced "A-nan-yee-na"), and from there take a metro (0.77 €). If you leave from Ciampino - take a metro to the last stop Anangnina and then an extra-urban bus to Ciampino (box offices at Anangnina bus station are open at 7 a.m. but if you leave earlier you may buy a ticket in the bus). The buses to Ciampino leave once an hour: 6:10, 7:10, etc.
Corinne Vasilyev <email>
Vancouver, BC Canada 07/21/03

We ate at Luzzi's, a delightful pizzeria in Rome that was incredibly inexpensive! We spent just under 20 euros for 2 of us for 1 salad, 1 vegetable, 1 veal entree, 1 pasta, a bottle of water, and a bottle of wine. It was definitely the best deal we had in Rome. It's near the Colosseum at Via Celimontana 1. The restaurant next door, Le Naumachie, is also very tasty. There's a great gelato place down the street called Antica Gelateria de Matteis - which is on the corner of Via Celimontana & Via Marco Aurelio.
Ann Roberts <email>
Austin, TX USA 07/16/03

Rome Hotels
Hotel Le Petit is a complete rip-off. We were given a room without air conditioning and a homeless person sleeping by the dumpster outside our window. We refused to stay there and found other accomodations. The owner had the nerve to charge our credit card for the night we didn't stay there! Hotel Aberdeen in Rome was a decent choice. The best hotel in Rome we chose was Hotel Lancelot - nice accomodations, reasonably priced, and a friendly staff.
Erica <email>
Fort Worth, TX USA 07/11/03

Vatican Tour
When we were in Rome we followed Rick's advice and booked a tour of the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel with the "Through Eternity" tourgroup. Our tour leader was Tatiana and she was the best tour guide we have ever had. Not only did she do a great job explaining all the sights around us, she also had a lot of background information surrounding St. Peter's, the Vatican, Catholicism and Roman history in general. She was able to answer every question anyone in our group had. She also seemed to be quite passionate about the Vatican and Rome and her opinions made the tour even more fascinating. I highly recommend Through Eternity Tours to anyone I know going to Rome and the Vatican.
Courtney Powell <email>
Austin, TX USA 07/11/03

Hotel Paba in Rome
We also want to recommend Hotel Paba in Rome on Via Cavour very near the Roman Forum. Signora Castelli made our 3 night stay the most memorable of our 2 week Italian vacation -- she always welcomes you with a smile and friendly conversation (in very good English) when you return wearily from your day's touring. She told us of a great place to eat nearby, gave us hotel recommendations in other towns (she'll call ahead and book for you), and goes out of her way with the little things like bringing an ice pack every night for my wife's sore knee. Although we stayed in many other hotels during our trip, including some 3 stars, the 2 star Hotel Paba was our favorite. (email: info@hotelpaba.com)
Peter <email>
San Jose, CA USA 07/04/03

Hotel Beehive
I have to add my praise for the Hotel Beehive. It was AWESOME. We stayed there last week, and were so pleased. The temperatures outside were scorching, but the underground room we got at the Beehive (along with the ceiling fan) kept us very cool. The bathroom was large enough and clean, and the bedroom was comfortable. There was also free internet access. The location, right by the Termini, was so convenient. Also, the hotel provides you with a book of their favorite places - which we followed. Great restaurant picks!
Ann <email>
Austin, TX USA 07/04/03

Rome Restaurant
Restaurante Belle Napoli was wonderful, with good prices and the best in seafood.
Charlie Bradshaw <email>
oceanside, ca USA 07/02/03

Rome Restaurant
Rick, I LOVE your books but PLEASE take Ostaria da Giovanni ar Galletto on Piazza Farnese off your restaurant recommendation list. The food was inedible, the wine watered down and service abysmal. Other than that your book was right on the money. I love the walking tours and museum guides in your books and find I can always depend on your hotel recommendations. Thanks.
Mariellen <email>
New York, NY USA 06/28/03

Ristorante Alla Rampa and Hotels
The service at Ristorante Alla Rampa is terrible. The waiters can be extremely rude if you're not ordering the whole 9 course Italian meal - and don't try to order tap water (our waiter flat out refused to serve it!). We were treated very poorly there and wouldn't recommend it.

Another poor recommendation is the Hotel Seiler. There are much better hotels in Rome, so don't bother with this one. They have a poor excuse for breakfast with bad coffee, and it's very noisy. Bring earplugs if you're staying there. We switched hotels to Hotel Montreal, which is a great hotel - wonderful a/c and quiet with a yummy breakfast and friendly staff. Also, the pub crawl with Walks of Rome is a blast.
Christiana Hudson <email>
Hohenecken, DE 06/25/03

Hotel Navona, Ristorante il Gabriello
I spent 5 nights in Hotel Navona. My room was lovely and clean, with a beautiful bath. Cory was nice, but he put me in the "dorm" end through the dining room, and the teenagers kept me up 4 of 5 nights. He's too busy catering to school groups - beware. The location is fabulous, but I wouldn't stay there again. Also - he tried to charge me for 6 nights intead of 5. Also, beware the Indian houseman who wanted to give me a massage and close the door to the room, saying it was OK with the boss to take 5 minutes out of his work to massage me. Regardless of the price, skip this place. There's enough feedback on this board of other better places.

Definitely eat at Ristorante Il Gabriella a few blocks north of Piazza di Spagna. Fabulous food, atmosphere and many other Rick Steve's folks willing to share their "must see/eat-ats". Every night found someone new who knew the RS insights. Excellent fish and pastas. Try the bruschetta and wines! Skip the veal. Love the desserts too! Gelateria della Palma was better than sex!! GO!
T Sober <email>
Akron, Oh USA 06/20/03

Rome
I have spent a great deal of time in Italy and have a few words of advice.

1) The Hotel Navona: While Corry is nice enough and the hotel has a fabulous location, we had roaches in our room. Enough said.

2) Be very careful with taxis even if a "meter" is running. Agree on an approximate price before hand even if there is a meter in the taxi. A taxi from the airport should cost about 40 euros, no more than 50 depending on where you are going. Some taxi meters are fixed, and they will tell you it will cost 70 or 80 Euros because you are going farther than the center. Do not let jet lag cause you to accept this!

3) I would like to echo what I've read other traveller's say about The Museo Nazionale at the Palazzo Massimo: Go to the mosaics and frescos! When excavating several ancient Roman villas, the archeologists were actually able to cut the concrete wall faces of beautifully frescoed rooms. They restructured them at the P. M.so you can actually walk inside Livia's summer dining room - gorgeous and amazing. Other rooms are possible as well.

4) Gypsies: some of them look clean and well dressed enough that you may see them and take them for ordinary Italian children. A week ago I witnessed such kids innocently dancing around a tourist man of about 70. His friend saw it from a few meters away and began shouting, they immediately dispersed. I was very surprised at how clean, nice, and ordinary looking they were.

5) I think all visitors to Rome need to go to San Clemente - a pagan temple in the sub basement level, then above is a proto-Christian church, then above that is a later church. And each temple is directly in line with the others! Really enlights you about the layers of history in Rome. Rome is wonderful, GO, GO, GO!
Ellen Craig
USA 06/18/03

Hotel Texas Seven Hills in Rome
We recently stayed at the Hotel Texas Seven Hills in Rome. As Rick says, the rooms are dreary. Unfortunately, the hotel does not have air conditioning or fans in the rooms. With the current heat in Rome, the room was almost unbearable. Unfortunately this hotel was the only one not booked out of several phone calls. I suggest that Rick updates his book to mention the lack of A/C and fans in this hotel.
Tim <email>
Baton Rouge, LA USA 06/17/03

Holiday in Rome
Rome was heavily booked when I was there earlier this week. I am traveling with two others and we were looking for a triple or dorm accomdation in the centre. With the help of parents back home on the net we found a place near Porta Portese south of Trastevere - an apartment with breakfast and absolute luxury compared to some of the pricey hostels in the centre. The people running the B&B at the apartments - Angelo and his wife were great. It is about 15 min bus to centre but the walk up the left side of Tiber through Trastavere and into Saint Peters as well as the Porta Portese markets made it all worthwhile. Local restaurant was better the traps in the Centre where we just stuck to gelato and pizzas. The site for these apartments with the funny name that doesnt seem to mean anything is www.bedandbreakfastoliveri.com .
Astrid <email>
Sidney, Aus Aus 06/11/03

Hotel Franklin--a rave!!
My husband and I stayed there last month and found it to be one of the best hotels anywhere. Located in the Prati section (10 min. walk to the Vatican) in a quiet residential area, the hotel offered excellent accommodations and service. Not only that it was a short walk to the Metro and there were buses right at the corner. And the breakfast was huge...with eggs, meats, etc. Can't say enough good things about the Franklin!
Nanette Knaster <email>
rutherford, nj USA 06/11/03

Daphne B&B in Rome has NO SECURITY.
We stayed at Daphne last month for 4 nights. My initial impression was positive. After 2 nights we came back to find the owner telling us she moved us to another room. We weren't exactly thrilled at having our things moved by someone else, plus, the room they moved us to was significantly smaller and right next to the bathroom that all the rooms shared. Then she told us we didn't need new room keys because the keys were the same for the 2 rooms. NICE SECURITY! We didn't like the idea of the person in another room having access to my room. Plus, how did she know we wouldn't go in our original room?! If you want security, Daphne is not the place to stay.
Jenny <email>
Panama City, FL USA 06/10/03

Hotels in Rome
We found some very pleasant, if somewhat spartan, accomodations at Hotel San Paolo at Via Panisperna, 95. The management there speaks fluent English, the major sites are not far away, and the street is quieter than most in Rome. Metro and bus stops are within a few minutes walk, and the price is definitely right. The place is safe and clean. Reach them at 06-474-5213.
Johnny Johnson <email>
Birmingham, AL USA 06/07/03

Getting to your hotel
We recently stayed at the recommended Hotel Navona in Rome. The book suggests taking the bus from the Train station to the hotel. This is nearly impossible to do during the day if you have any luggage at all. We tried and it was so crowded we got off halfway and walked. I would suggest taking a taxi, especially if you have just arrived tired and jet lagged from the USA. Just make sure you don't get ripped off - you should pay around 12-15 Euro to get to Hotel Navona by Taxi.
Dennis Storz <email>
Portland, OR USA 06/06/03

hotel in rome
Just returned from Italy. In Rome we stayed at the Domus Carmelitana- a converted convent that I will give 2 1/2 stars to. It is 200 meters from St. Peter's square, quiet, comfortable rooms with a/c that works. It is 113 euros/day for two with breakfast. They have a decent wine and coffe bar-if you do not demand Marriott "luxury" this is a place you should consider.
Ed Lewis
USA 06/04/03

Italy 2003

Hostaria Romana, a recommended Rome restaurant, was absolutely terrible. All the food was salty, we were charged more on the "English" menu, there were broken shells in the linguine with clams, and they treated us like wallets--give us your money and that's about it. Re: restaurants, eat where you think looks good, we had better luck this way.

Unfortunately, I didn't find the Italian people all warm and friendly as they were made out to be. Instead, many were surly (a drink vendor yelled at us in Italian when we changed our minds about our drinks), and were only nice after we bought something. If we weren't sure to have found the items elsewhere, we definitely would have walked out the stores. Also for the Vatican, don't forget the guidebook, you really need it.

I recommend Rick Steves' city books over the general Italy book--really not enough to get around. We should've taken another book with us other than Rick Steve's Italy 2003. It was not sufficient--perhaps a Michelin Green Guide.
Shari
Yorba Linda, CA USA 06/03/03

Hotel Italia
We recently returned from our first trip to Italy. In Roma we stayed at the Hotel Italia. Our twin room that was in the annex across the street from the reservation desk was clean and bigger than expected. The bathroom was a decent size and the towels were changed daily. The staff was friendly, the breakfast was nice, and the location was close to the train station and fairly centrally located. At 100 Euros a night, I would definitely recommend the Hotel Italia. Thanks Rick!!

We ate at the Snack Bar Gastronomia for good light dinners that were inexpensive. We also had a very nice dinner at the Il Pomo DÓro across the street from the Italia. The food was very good, the prices reasonable, and the staff were incredible and oh so very warm!! I would recommend both of these bars.

This spring was a great time to vacation in Italy – tourism was off 40% and we didn't stand in line for anything. Also, we didn't see any of the pickpockets/gypsies that are mentioned. It also happened to be Italian Cultural week, so all of the museums were free (this helped offset the declining value of the dollar).

We were going to take the Ancient City tour with Roman Odyssey, but when no one showed up at the stated time, we went on the Colosseum and Roman Forum tour with Through Eternity Cultural Association (only 9 people on this tour). Our tour guide was Rosario who is from southern Italy and has a degree in Art History. Rosario spoke good English and approached this tour in an educational and humorous way. He made the ancient city come alive!! We enjoyed this tour so much that we decided to take the Rome at Twilight tour with Rosario also (only 4 people on this tour). We walked from the Spanish Steps to the Victor Emmanuel Monument. We stopped for gelato at the most incredible place close to the Pantheon. Rome at twilight was magical!!

Taking the walking tours seemed like the best way to get the most out of our limited time in Roma, so we also took the Through Eternity tour of St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum (again only 4 people on this tour). Our tour guide was Johnny, an Irishman who was educated and serious about the Vatican and the art. Johnny carried a notebook that he used to make quotes and to show us pictures of the artists along the way. This tour lasted almost 6 hours and was more intense and serious than the other tours but also excellent. I would definitely recommend the Through Eternity walking tours.

Lastly, we followed Rick's advice and got reservations to the Borghese Museum. We took the English tour that still leaves time to walk around on your own. Apollo and Daphne were indeed stunning. The setting of the museum is absolutely wonderful. Thanks again Rick for giving advice that allowed us to see so many wonderful things in our 2 ½ days in Roma.
lmeharry@pacifier.com <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 06/02/03

Ultimate Tour Guide for Ostia Antica and Rome
My wife and I recently returned from a fabulous trip to Italy. We were lucky enough to join a private tour of Ostia led by Ludovica Giuriati. Ludovica has a phenomenal ability to explain the meaning behind the many layers of history that are visible in Ostia and Rome. Her English is flawless as is her knowledge of Roman history (she teaches archeology and has worked at many archeological sites in Italy). I cannot believe that anybody would be disappointed with her services. We ran into her the next day giving a private tour of the Sistine Chapel which I'm sure was also great. Her website is at www.romeguide.net. In Rome, we also took the Scala Reale Ancient Rome tour. It was excellent, and while Scala Reale's practice of insisting you also pay for a fairly good orientation tour in order to take its Ancient Rome tour rankles, we were glad we took both tours.
TroppoGelato <email>
Vienna, VA USA 05/29/03

Rome - Hotel Magic
When you said the staff is not warm and friendly, that was an understatement! The women we dealt with were downright mean to us. They charged us for breakfasts, even though we said ahead of time we didnt want them, and I even showed them your book but they didn't budge. They didn't empty the garbage 3 days in a row, and we got no towels because we didn't let them in the room at 8am when they wanted to come in. Basically, if you are not an early riser, the staff hates you! Also, our friend from England was urgently trying to reach us, and called 5 times, and the staff screamed at him to stop calling, and never even gave us one message. I definitely don't recommend this hotel!!
Kara <email>
New York, NY USA 05/29/03

Golden House B&B Rome
Avoid the Golden House B&B in Rome,Via Vittelleschi. The staff is unfriendly and uses an "Army-tone" with guests. We arrived after a night-train ride to Rome at the Hotel in the morning and instead of being welcomed at the reception we heard a curt "Passport". Then we were told that our prebooked rooms were not ready till 6 p.m. When we complained that this was not according to the voucher we had, the only answer was "A mistake from the agency". No appology was offered nor any help. We left immediately.
Peter <email>
USA 05/25/03

Rome Visit
Our family spent a week in Rome just before Easter and benefited again and again with Rick's Rome touring guidelines, including the Rome chapter in Mona Winks.

Extra special thanks for two suggestions: We spent 5 nights in two rooms at the beautiful Residenza Cellini (Great value for the prices.) Can't say enough about this jewel with great quiet location and lovely immaculate (6) rooms. The owners were extremely helpful and pleasant and it was a perfect 'home' for relaxing after busy days in Rome.

We also thoroughly enjoyed the Scala Reale walking tours. With two kids (12 &14), we decided on two full afternoon private tours. We hadn't time to organize this prior to the trip, but the office staff was extremely quick to set these up and confirm. We had a fabulous and kid-friendly PhD in Archeology bring the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine Hill to life and an art history buff story-tell her way through the Vatican, Sistine Chapel and St. Peters. Both tours were fascinating for each of us, very educational, fun and definite highlights of our trip.
CSS
USA 05/19/03

Roma!
We loved Rome and found Rick's 2003 Italy guide book to be very valuable in helping us get through the lines and plan paths around the city. However, his recommendation of the Rome YWCA as a budget stay almost ruined our stay. I've used Y's around the world and have had great experiences, but this one was noisy morning, noon and night (especially around 5a.m. when the street market outside our window set up) and pretty gross with the overflowing showers (poor plumbing). We complained, but the Y staff were unresponsive.

We loved the suggestion to buy combo-tickets at Palatine Hill in the Forum and felt that this single tip was well worth the price of the book. We were worn out from the chaos of the city and were overjoyed to find a quiet and virtually people-free beauty like this in the heart of Rome. There was absolutely no line to get in and the park like setting, history and architecture were amazing. It was definitely one of the highlights of our trip to Rome and helped us get re-energized before heading out into the rest of the normal tourist spots.
Jessica <email>
Seattle, WA USA 05/14/03

Hotel Navona and Osteria Mario
We just came back from Rome last week. We stayed at the Hotel Navona. The hotel was fine and Corry was very nice, but don't let him put you in an apartment he has a few blocks away. While the apartment was fine, it was directly over a popular outdoor restaurant which kept late hours and across the narrow street from a vegetable salesman who kept early hours. We never got more than 3 hours of sleep, even with the windows closed. Also, our first night we went to the Osteria Mario restaurant and one of the waiters indicated we could sit inside immediately or wait for an outside table. We opted for the outside table. After we had waited about fifteen minutes, another waiter came out and said they were closing! He didn't care that we had been waiting, or that the other waiter had indicated we were to be served. Basically, he said "Tough, come back tomorrow." We simply went down the street where another restaurant was happy to serve us. With such a bad attitude toward potential customers and negative reports from readers on this site (Nov. 02, March 03) I think it's time for Rick to take this restaurant out of his book.
Lori Heathorn
Palo Alto, CA USA 05/13/03

Hotel Mimos - Rome
I recommend Hotel Mimosa in Rome to travelers wanting a central location close to everything. Their web site is www.hotelmimosa.net. Phone is 06/6880-1753. The address is Via S Chiara 61. Several of the desk clerks spoke fairly good to excellent English. The room we stayed in had 3 beds and the cost was 108 euros per night. The best thing about this hotel (besides eggs for breakfast) was that they are about 2 blocks from Piazza Rotonda and the Pantheon. It was wonderful passing such a vibrant place on our way, any time we were out and about. Also there is a wonderful Gelato place on Magdalena Del Palma which is about 5 blocks away. Just far enough to go out for Gelato and finish it before you get back to your hotel. There was also an internet place about a block east of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva which is just 2 blocks away.
Marjie
Cottage Grove, OR USA 05/12/03

Hotel Recommendation - Relais Banchi Vecci
Just spent a fantastic week in Italy, finding last-minute dirt-cheap tickets on-line. We didn't realize it was Easter until after the tickets were booked, and had a little trouble finding a place to stay. Stumbled on Relais Banchi Vecci, and could not have been happier! It's located about a 10 minute walk from Vatican City, and a similar distance from Campo dei Fiori. The owner (Milena) has just recently remodeled (2 weeks ago) the rooms and they are beautiful. Extremely easy access to public transportation, but definitely within walking distance of the main sights. Breakfast served in the room (real breakfast, not a bunch of instant stuff dropped off the night before) and plenty of peace and quiet. Contact: info@banchivecchi115.com, or visit their website: http://www.banchivecchi115.com (SE very well, our double room was 130 euros/night).
Clay Schwenn <email>
Mukilteo, WA USA 05/02/03

Palatine Hill
I have to agree with a previous poster regarding the Palatine Hill. I probably spent a good 90 minutes there after visiting the Forum. Not only did I find it fasinating but also a nice quiet change from the Forum and Colloseum crowds. To those who are into Roman history, the Palatine is a must. Don't pass it up!
CSR
USA 04/23/03

Rome Hotels and Shuttle
Spent 3 nights in Rome the last week in March. Stayed at Hotel St Anselmo (just south of the Circus Maximus). There is a steep uphill climb whenever you return to the hotel, but the hotel is very nice and the breakfast is good. Bus transportation nearby. We got good rates (90 euros) at venere.com in the special rates area. Note on getting from Rome airport to hotels. Near the rental car areas, go to booths posted as Hotels. They offer a shuttle service to most hotels at 12 euros each. Not much more than the train to the Termini and you go directly to your hotel.
Roy Pool <email>
Dallas, Tx USA 04/22/03

Back From Rome...
Just returned from Rome, and loved having both the Rome and Italy 2003 books. We took two tours from Rome Walks, and loved them both. Our tour guide Greg was fabulous for the Colesseum, Forum, and Palatine Hill, and we truly enjoyed Luca's guidance on our La Dolce Vita tour (though the La Dolce Vita probably could have been done on our own, Luca made it very worthwhile--didn't feel like a 'tour' at all!)

We have to disagree about Rick's statements about Palatine Hill. He says it's for 'serious sightseers with low expectations.' Well, maybe that's why it was so empty and gloriously unspoiled! We absolutely LOVED it. Great city views, lots of history, and you can really see how Rome developed throughout the centuries from spending some time here.

Also, at the Vatican museum, Rick offers a shortcut to the Sistine Chapel. We missed it, and ended up going through all the modern exhibits before we got to the Sistine. Ended up being a great thing--apparently EVERYONE knows this shortcut, and though we went the long way around, we got in faster AND through a different door, so we were standing in a much less crowded spot once we got there.

Otherwise, I HIGHLY recommend the Rome book--all the restaurant and museum advice was spot on, and the book saved us when a train strike hit the day we wanted to trave. Rick's advice also helped get us back to our hotel from across town when all transportation but the metro stopped running due to a massive peace parade!

Despite the war, no one cared that we were Americans. Romans were all very friendly and interested, and the true way to see this city is just to rest, relax, and take in what you can without overtaxing yourself. We loved it and felt safe the whole time.
Nicole <email>
Boston, MA USA 04/18/03

Hotel Aberdeen
Ahh Roma! I do love it. We have been there often and stayed several different places over the years, some very pricey, but NONE better than the Hotel Aberdeen. I almost hate to recommend it. The staff is charming, intelligent and helpful. The hotel is pretty, clean and very convenient. It could not be safer, across from the Ministry of Defense. Grocery stores, bakeries and good restaurants are nearby. And ask for directions to a close travel agent to get your train tickets. You cannot do better than this hotel run by Anna-Maria, Sabrina and Cinzia.
Charles M. Luther <email>
Katy, TX USA 04/12/03

Rome Tips
My three srongest recommendations to improve the guidebook are to include the following:

Tip 1: 3 Millennia Tours!!! We booked two tours with them. Our first night in town we did their Rome at Sunset tour. The tour was lead my Jimmy Verdino from upstate NY. A very charming and funny man. It was amazing how well he seamlessly connected the 2,000 years worth of history he was showing us. He showed us the majority of the sights in the Historic center. Since the tour started at 6:30, most of the sights were seen after dark and illuminated by numerous spotlights. He finished the tour at a very beautiful outlook over the Roman Forum. He then recommended we go to Gigetto restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto for dinner, about a 5-10 minute walk. The restaurant was located right next to a current excavation. It was a great dinner; one of the best we had in Rome.

The following day we took their Vatican Museum tour with Tony Polzer from the Philadelphia area. I don't know how he does it. He was extremely knowledgeable and delivered his information in a manner that was very organized and fluid. In addition, some of the people on our tour were a little annoying with the large number of complicated and off-the-wall questions they asked. Tony did not seem fazed at all. He answered each one very well. Their information is: 3 Millennia Tours www.threemillennia.com info@threemillennia.com 347 193 6027

Tip 2: Airport Shuttle. As we were walking near the Vatican, Tony took a flyer from one of those people on the street and he gave it to us. He said that he has had numerous clients that had used this service (including his own parents) and that he highly recommended it. For 12 euros more then the train, we had a driver who picked us up at the door of our B&B and took us straight to the airport. He was even 10 minutes early to pick us up, nice and prompt. Their info: Airport Shuttle www.airportshuttle.it 06 42 01 45 07 (24/7 and English)

Tip 3: Backpackers's Group. We were a little skeptical at first because of the name. However we booked one of their B&B's and loved it. We had a massive room with a queen and a twin bed. Our room had its own private bath which was also large. I still can't get over how large the room and bathroom were for only 75 euros. I have never had accomodations of that size and at that price in Italy before. It was located right next to a morning fruit and vegetable market. A great way to start our days. Their info: Backpacker's Group www.backpackersgroup.com
Luke <email>
USA 04/11/03

Long lines at the Vatican Museum
The line for Vatican Museum can be very long, even in early March. We arrived at 11:00 on a Monday and the line was very, very long. Instead of waiting, we went to see St. Peters and then came back about 1:00. The line was gone! Apparently afternoons are really better.
Marcia <email>
Spokane, WA USA 03/17/03

Tips for Rome
My wife and I just returned from a week in Rome. We used www.omtour.com to book an apartment on via Angelo Emo for under $80 a night. The apartment was pretty small, but was a good home base for the trip. Our host Mauro provided us with a cell phone and picked us up and took us back to the airport. The small kitchen (stove and fridge) saved us money as we cooked dinner nearly every night. The apartment was in a quiet, safe, non-touristy neighborhood. Supermarket, great pastry shop and good local restaurants just down the street, bank/ATM literally just around the corner, metro stop (Cipro/Vaticano) about a 5 min walk away. The entrance to the Vatican museum is less than 10 min away, and St. Peter's square is about 20 min.

The subway system helped us very little (only 2 lines) and can be packed during the rush hours. Keep your hands on all valuables at all times! We rode the #64 bus once, at night, and it was packed. Again, watch for roaming hands. Important--Rick does not mention it, but you can buy a week subway/bus pass for $12.25. I would buy it at a booth as the ticket machines we tried justs spit our money back (we saw several eat others' money).

The pavement is often uneven and hard on the feet. Make sure you have a good, broken-in pair of walking shoes with you. I'd also invest in some foot pads before you go to avoid blisters (cheaper to buy at home).

A compass is the best $3 item I've packed in our three trips to Europe. In Rome, you'll need it to get your bearings coming out of the subways, as well as walking through some of the backstreets.

Taxis can be worth it if you need to get someplace in a hurry, but a 10 min ride will probably end up costing $8-10. Also, make sure the cab has a meter. One cab we had didn't but he didn't seem to overcharge us--and this was a cab we got at a taxi stand.

Pop into the churches as you walk. Even the most hole-in-the-wall church is beautiful (stop in the church that is above the Cappuchin Crypt; it has amazing art).

If you climb St. Peter's dome, it's a workout. Not for the out of shape or the claustrophobic (the stairs and walls get much narrower the higher up you go). Great views of Rome from the top. As a bonus, on Sunday morning, you'll hear the mass music drift up to you.

Rick needs to put the cat sanctuary at Torre Argentina in his book, especially under activities for kids. It is a shelter for cats that have been left in the ruins. The shelter spays/neuters them and finds them new homes. Their website is www.romancats.de

Gelato: Try The Old Bridge (no bridge apparent). It's between St. Peter's and the Vatican museum entrance, across the street (near a piazza with an ice skating rink). It is open late, and seemed popular with locals; a good sign).

Avoid eating at "tourist" restaurants near the big sights. You can tell them because they have people outside handing out menus and trying to lure you inside. Our apartment host, Mauro, told us that many tourist restaraunts that sell lasagna make a batch in the morning and then keep it under a heat lamp the rest of the day. If you go to an "local" restaurant and they offer it as a special of the day, order it because it is likely to be just out of the oven.

We are now fans of digital pictures as you know right away if you got the shot you wanted. Also, for night shots, a tripod is key! We bought a 12 inch one for $15 and it was great. If you move a camera at all while taking a night shot, you'll only get a blur.

Italians have been the most outgoing, friendly people we've met in Europe. We were befriended by a used book dealer named Massimo who spoke little English, but took a liking to us. We talked about visiting Rome with him in the small ways that we could communicate with each other. When we left, he insisted on having a picture taken with my wife and gave us both "Italian kisses" on the cheeks.

Don't leave Rome without buying some salami and provolone cheese to snack on during your trip. Both are different than in the U.S. Also, try some alla pesca (peach iced tea); you can buy it at any street vendor or grocery store.

We've toured Rome in July/August and now in February. February is preferable due to the (lack of) crowds, and the mild temps (it was mid-low 50's). The summer heat drains so much energy but in winter you can keep going. The only thing missing in February was the piazza nightlfe. Piazza Navona, lively in August, was a little subdued.

We may not return to Rome again in the near future, but we know we will be back someday (especially if the "three coins in the fountain" tradition holds true!).
Chris Bryant <email>
Southfield, MI USA 03/11/03

Earlier departures from Termini Station to airport.
My wife and I really appreciated your guidebook which is excellent, very helpful and concise. We do have new information that will save your travelers money, particularly if they are staying near Termini Station. There is now train service from Termini Station that begins at 5:50 A.M.. Since most flights back to the States begin early in the morning it will cost your travelers around 8 instead of 40 euros by taxi to reach their early-morning flights. We'd also like to recommend an excellent restaurant we discovered near Porta Pia, both inexpensive and with superb food. It's Al Bersagliere at Via Ancona 43 within easy walking distance of the Borghese Gallery. Buon appetito!
Peter and Heidi Smith <email>
Providence, ri USA 03/09/03

Loved Your Tours
My husband and I just returned from two weeks in Rome. We've rented an apartment on the Via Pastini for a few years now, but this is the first year we've used your Rome guide and we loved it. We went at the end of February to get the nicest temperatures for walking and NO crowds. I can't even imagine going in the hot summer!

Restaurants: We ate outside many nights at the "Night and Day" restaurant (#4 Piazza della Rotunda, to the left of McDonald's), a perfect view of the Pantheon, nice warm heaters, street musicians and, of course, the always interesting "show" of strollers in the Piazza. Roberto and Anna couldn't have been more helpful and friendly, the food was great and the prices were reasonable.

We agree with another contributor to this column, Osteria da Mario's service was dismal, skip it.

We always go to Trattoria der Pallaro and if you get to Filetti de Baccala a little early it isn't too packed.

Unfortunately, our big splurge, Tre Scalini was closed for renovations (aaargh, NO Tartuffo!), so we went to Alfredo alla Scrofa instead. We had the Fettuccine Alfredo, of course, and the filets mignon with Barolo wine and Gorgonzola sauce were to die for. The service was so old world, I felt like a princess!

We took several of your helpful, entertaining tours in the book, love your humor. At the Baths of Diocletian: the church, Santa Maria Degli Angeli, really helped us imagine the grandeur of Rome before the decline, be sure to get to the Octagonal Hall before 2PM and skip the "museum"!

Some extra sights: By the Forum: on the Via Imperiale, attached to the Temple of Romulus, is the church of Santi Cosma e Damiano, which was a hall in Vespasian's Temple of Peace. This is another place that illustrated the grand scale of old Rome (and the small garden and Neapolitan Creche were a welcome change from the dusty Forum).

A free tour we love is at the Torre Argentina at 3PM every Sunday, sponsored by the cat sanctuary. It's in English, always interesting, and is sometimes not just limited to the ruins there, but gives a complete history of Rome. A visit to the cat sanctuary is also great, but then, we love cats.

The Montemartini Museum (Art Center Acea- an easy ride on the Metro, Garbatella stop, bear to your left out of the station to the foot bridge across the tracks, across the parking lot and the Via Ostiense, # 106 to the left) was very interesting, statues from the Capitoline Museums amid huge electrical power generators. You can't miss the immense 100 B.C. statue that was in the Temple of Fortuna in the Torre Argentina, she must have been 25' tall!

We trudged up the Aventine Hill to Santa Sabina, great view of Rome, saw the daily 12 noon cannon go off across the Tiber below the Garibaldi statue on the Gionicolo Hill. We joined in with some locals to shout "Ecola, Ecola!"

We love to use the bus system, we buy a current bus map and get everywhere with ease. If a popular bus you're waiting for is packed, another, emptier one will be along right after it. We don't understand why everyone packs onto the crowded one. A note of caution, this year we saw the ATAC bus police out in force to check for tickets! Get a daily ticket!
Bill & Loraine Montferret <email>
Toms River, NJ USA 03/07/03

Italy Guidebook Tip
We used Rick's Italy 2003 guidebook on our 2 week trip to Italy and found it very useful. Other items that were very helpful were Rick's Italian phrase book, which I kept in my coat pocket at all times (very useful in restaurants!). We also enjoyed the Italy DVD during trip planning- it gave us a good idea of what to expect in each city. Rick's Italy 2003 was great for history, affordable hotels, and Cinque Terre information. However, we supplemented this book with Frommer's Italy 2003 and found that it was a great complement, especially for restaurants and maps. We used the two guidebooks daily with great success.
David W. <email>
Cary, NC USA 03/06/03

Rome - Hotel Aberdeen
My wife and I just returned from our honeymoon in Italy and had a wonderful time and great weather for late Feb. and early March (not a single rainy day). We stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen in Rome (Rick's recommendation; 90 Euros/night) and were very pleased. The front desk staff spoke English well and were very helpful with recommendations. They even put a complimentary bottle of champagne in our room as a honeymoon surprise! The hotel is convenient to the city buses, and is located sort of between the train station and many of the sites of interest. We had the best Tartufo (chocolate ice-cream dessert) at the Hosteria dei Bastioni (beside the Vatican), also recommended by Rick.
David W. <email>
Cary, NC USA 03/06/03

Hotel Navona and Bus 116
We stayed at Hotel Navona which is one of Rick's recommended hotels in the Piazza Novona area. What a great location! A block and a half from Piazza Novona, 3 blocks to the Campo de Fiori and a 4 minute walk to the Pantheon. We saw several of the newly remodeled rooms. Corry (the owner of the Hotel) said he had just finished another batch or remodeling.

Rome has really good transportation. I enjoy riding the bus to see the city and to get to the sights. In Rick's new Rome video, he says you may find Electro Bus #116 helpful. To me it was more than helpful, it was a fantastic way to get around. If you are staying in this area, it will take you to St Peter's in one direction. This way you don't have to ride the "Pickpocket Express" (Bus #64). And it will take you through the heart of the city and all the way to the Borghese Gallery in the other direction. Also, after you have taken Rick's Night Walk across Rome, you can ride the 116 from the Spanish Steps to within a half a block of the Hotel Navona.
Robert Hilton <email>
Hiawatha, KS USA 02/27/03

Re: Suore di Sant' Anna
Being a Ukrainian speaker myself, I found myself right home at the Ukrainian parish off of via Cavour. The place is cheap and well-maintained, but the rooms are, for lack of a better term, sterile and our room was not cleaned once during our four-night stay. Also, the 23:00 curfew does cramp your style if you want to go to a concert, soccer game, etc.
R.J. Smyk <email>
Chicago, IL USA 02/07/03

Rome Trip
My wife and I took our first trip to Europe by going to Rome for our 23rd anniversary. We took Rick's Rome" tourguide book and it was priceless. Most of the information was right on. We got a six day four night package for $1228 from Houston to Rome and was booked in the Brasile Hotel. After all the traveling we only had three and a half days and four nights but Rick's book enabled us to plan full days of touring.

We did Rick's "Night walk through Rome" the first evening, the Borghese Gallery and the National Museum the next day, The Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St Peters on Sunday (our anniversary), was blessed by the Pope (not personally, in St Peters Square) and our last day the Collesum, Roman Forum, Capital Hill and back to the Pantheon for a second time. We followed Rick's book and it made our trip great. Especially the side exit our of the Sistine Chapel.

We also got to experience the Pickpockets on the infamous #64 bus. Two men working together tried to pick my pocket but Rick's money belt saved the day. I did not carry a wallet at all. I had the valuables in the money belt and only day money in my front pocket in a money clip. They tried hard but got nothing. When you get a taxi at a taxi stand make sure they ZERO the meter. Got ripped once there. Our trip was fabulous and a memory we will cherish for life. We hope to go to Paris next.
John White <email>
Sugar land, TX USA 02/05/03

Rome B&B part 2
I also had a bad experience using www.crosspollinate.com. Avoid Rudy's B&B at all costs...
Kenny <email>
Antioch, CA USA 01/27/03

Rome B&B
Where not to stay in Rome: the B&B Carrara, booked on line with www.crosspollinate.com. Looks great on the website, but very different in person: dark, dreary and smoke-filled.
Margaret
Orange County, CA USA 01/20/03

Hotel Paba in Rome
The Hotel Paba in Rome and its owner Alberta (found from research on this website!) "made" our trip to Rome over Christmas break 2002-2003. The hotel is in a wonderful location (easy walking distance to the Forum and the Colosseum. Although right on Via Cavour it was quiet and well-kept. Alberta made us feel right at home from our breakfast (brought to us in our room when we were ready for it) to travel advice to Rome information phone calls to always welcoming us with a friendly smile as we would return to our "home-away-from-home". Alberta speaks wonderful English and, thus, helped make our stay more comfortable. Her hotel, though just a few rooms and only 2 stars, is spacious and modern. The 2 stars evidentally come from the size of her hotel rather than any amenities. She had everything we needed and more, such as remote control computerized heat/air! Having traveled to Rome for many years, I must say that I have never seen such a great combination of location and comfort and affordability, as usually only 1 or 2 of those may be found in one hotel. I heartily recommend Alberta and her Hotel Paba on Via Cavour! Thank you, Rick, for sharing her and her hotel with us!
Patti Harrold <email>
Edmond, ok USA 01/12/03

Hotel Santa Maria
When we were looking for a hotel in Rome last december, we had only the information from Rick Steves' guidebook to guide us in making our choice. How fortunate we were to stay at Hotel Santa Maria. The location was wonderful. The breakfasts were wonderful. The staff, made us fell like welcomed guests. We have to thank the staff for directing us around the beautiful city, for recommending places to eat, for unlocking locked luggage when we misplaced the keys, and for being our best friends during our stay.

And then there was Stefano. Despite an overwhelming personal situation, he took time to show us through the Vatican Museum and St. Peter's, the Roman Forum and the Colosseum and gave us a pictures of history and politics and art we could never acquire by ourselves. We have had guides before but Stefano was like an expert good friend giving us the experience of seeing Rome away from the usual tourist itineraries and getting the most from art and history.

He arranged us for an unforgettable evening at Ristorante P. Flamini where Paolo personally supervised our food and drinks (many drinks!) for four hours, then poured us into a taxi for the ride back to the hotel. We enjoyed his company immensely, and we suggest him to all of you that wants to feel as though you actually live in Rome His email is: donghiroma@libero.it don't miss him.

We'd like to say "thank you" to all the staff for their courtesy and patience and professionalism that helped make our Roman Holiday so special. Grazie Mille!
Anne <email>
New York, NY USA 01/08/03

Doctor "on call"
I must sing praises for the staff at Hotel Aberdeen. I developed a sinus infection in France. By the time I got to Rome, it was a roaring ear infection. The staff at Hotel Aberdeen called an American doctor that was within walking distance of the hotel. My daughter and I walked to the doctor's office. He gave me 3 prescriptions and directions to the pharmacy. I so appreciated the Aberdeen's staff for making a very stressful situation less stressful. The Aberdeen was the nicest of all the hotels we stayed in and breakfast was included in the room rate. Just for info. the doctor's consulting fee was 80 Euros and the 3 prescriptions totaled 32 Euros.
Blenda <email>
Mt. Pleasant, Tx USA 01/06/03

Rome hotel
Our family of four just returned from 2 weeks in Italy and benefitted from some of Rick's advice. We stayed at a small hotel called the Hotel Solis Invictus on Via Cavour a few blocks from the Coloseum. It has about 12 rooms and we had a family room with a large double and 2 single beds. It was $155 a night and very comfortable. We arrived at 11:00 and they had the maids prepare our room first for an early check-in so that we could head to the sites right away. That was a nice touch. It is 3 star and well designed.

There was a long line at the Coloseum so we joined a tour being formed. It was an additional $8 but saved us from waiting in line and was informative.

We thought the nativity festival at Piazza Navona was tacky and a waste of time.

The Vatican deserved more time than we had planned and will require a return. In addition to the formal tours there were also people offering informal tours there as well. We listened in on a couple and enjoyed them. The big game at the vatican is to get to the sistine chapel early and save St Peters for afterward if you can. It is a bit of a zoo there.

I am a small town boy and expected to hate Rome. I found it quite enjoyable and will return. PS: The trains in Italy are great!
Bob Schultz <email>
Carbondale, CO USA 01/06/03