Archive: Sleeping on Trains
Dinner in Munich, breakfast in Venice. Sleep and travel at the same time—that's efficient! What have your experiences been? Did you sleep well? Is it worth the trouble?
Possible thieves on Krakow to Prague overnight train
We took the overnight train from Krakow, Poland, to Prague in December. The conductor told us there would be only one time we would be awakened, when crossing the border into the Czech Republic at around 1 A.M.
At about 10:30 P.M. there was pounding on our sleeper door and a woman's voice yelling "we need to see your railpass." "The conductor has our passes," we shouted back through the closed door. She then was turning the door handle but the door was securely locked. My wife had the lower bunk so was closest to the door. I told her to not open the door and that I had read in Rick Steves books that this particular route was one of the more notorious ones for thefts.
Whoever was wanting us to open the door gave up and left.
At about 1 A.M., as the conductor said would happen, we crossed the border where our passports were checked several times.
I was planning to tell the conductor about this incident in the morning but, in my grogginess, forgot.
The bottom line is do NOT open the door in a sleeper for strangers.
Don Rake
West Sacramento, CA USA 02/09/04
Sleeping and Sitting
I was going from Paris to Stuttgart, Germany. I had missed an earlier train,
and so my only choice was the night train and there were no couchettes,
or sleepers available- so I had to reserve just a normal seat. It was a
nightmare. While some compartments were empty, mine was jam-packed. 6 seats,
6 people. We all complained to each other, but conductors were nowhere to
be found. I needed to get some water, but couldn't because the cars were
all locked. We were trapped in our car!
We (my compartment mates and I) decided to stage a coup, and we managed to get into the first class car by picking the locks on the train doors—easy to do with a nail clipper. We went to the first class private bar. It was fantastic. We first got bottled water, but then decided beer might help with the cramped sleeping situation. Even with beer though, it was pretty bad. As the night wore on, I tried about 2,000 positions to sleep in. I also noticed that every time I awoke, another person was gone from my compartment. Perhaps they tried to sneak into an empty compartment so they could get some sleep.
In the morning I was sore and bitter due to the
lack of sleep. I vowed never to sleep sitting up again. I am taking another
night train in a few days back to Paris but this time I have a reserved
couchette, and it's in first class.
Ryan
Germany, 12/17/03
Couchettes from Paris to St. Gervais/Chamonix
I took a night train with two other Americans from Paris to St. Gervais.
It was one of the best experiences I have had on the train. We bought beds
in a couchette and had the room entirely to ourselves. The doors locked
and we were not disturbed all night. And we were all tired enough that we
had no problem sleeping. The following morning we awoke refreshed and ready
to explore Chamonix. And it turned out to be the same price as a hotel.
What a deal for college students!
Kristie
Poitiers, France 10/05/03
Night train from Ljubljana to Venice
Coming from Ljubljana, Slovenia to Milan (via Trieste and Venice Mestre)
was one of the biggest ordeals on a train.
First of all, it was a very difficult affair to get up at 2:30 AM in Ljubljana. Luckily I was in the Dijaski Dom Tabor hostel, which was within walking distance of the train station. Already it was in the mid 70s late at night. My train came about 3:20 AM, which was about on time. However there were several backpackers so I had some competition for getting in a first class car.
Inside the car, the second class was almost full of weary backpackers. Even first class was *not* air conditioned. I managed to find a relatively empty compartment (only two others). There was a Slovene woman and a Bulgarian woman with me. Once we left Ljubljana, I drifted off to sleep but woke up occasionally because it was not very comfortable sleeping while sitting up. The two women with whom I shared the compartment with wanted to smoke and they were nice enough to go into the hallway to do so.
At the border on the Slovene side we were all woken up about 6 AM. All of our passports were checked but not stamped. Luckily my bags were not checked. About an hour later we were at the Italian side, where the border guard asked the Bulgarian woman if she had sufficient funds to stay in Italy. She had a few hundred Euros in cash. Half an hour later we proceeded into Italy. We continued on to Trieste where we would change direction. It was nice to be able to see the Adriatic. From then on I could not sleep.
When I got to Mestre I bought a reservation on the Eurostar, because I knew at least those trains are air conditioned. I did not want an Intercity train as it would be a 50/50 chance that it would not have A/C.
Note: as there are so few trains going daily between
Italy and Slovenia and vice versa, be prepared to take a train departing
at an odd hour, as the choices are very limited. Connections are better
between Austria and Slovenia.
Josh Hanz
Foster City, CA USA 09/06/03
From Zürich to Ljubljana (and on to Zagreb)
I did survive a ride on the EN 95 (Euro-Night) from Zürich to Ljubljana
via Feldkirch, Innsbruck and Villach. I was in a three bed compartment for
which I paid $40 for, not including breakfast. It did not have air conditioning
so I had only the window for ventilation. It made lots of noise, so I was
glad I packed my earplugs and slept like a log until we got to the Austrian/Slovene
border early the next morning.
From then on it was just an hour until I got to Ljubljana. It looked like I was still in the Swiss Alps or what I had already seen from Rick's "Croatia and Slovenia" Back Doors episode, the one with the Lake Bled cake and battling knights. The only problem was the very steep drop from the train compartment floor onto the station platform which was quite low. The conductor who spoke both German and Slovene was very kind to help me get my luggage, including my Rick Steves rolling suitcase, down. And from then on it was a matter of
1. Getting some Slovene Tolars, at the time 200 Tolar to $1.
2. Getting a day pass for the buses and local train network.
3. Finding my way to the youth hostel Dijaski Dom Tabor.
Then I had a nice day of sightseeing, although it was so hot I had to give up about 3 PM.
Always make sure the departure date is correct
on your ticket. And remember that there are only three cars going to Ljubljana
and Zagreb, so accomodation choices will be very limited, first class
may not even be available or it might be completely booked up. And be
very sure that you have planned enough time for this trip from Zürich
to Ljubljana as it takes a good eleven hours (9:30 PM to 8:20 AM the next
morning)
Josh Hanz
Foster City, CA USA 09/06/03
Bad Experience
I had a poor experience on my overnight voyage by train from Rome to Paris.
My wife and I paid a large surcharge (USD $115 per person) to upgrade
our railpasses to allow us a Double Excelsior cabin on the Artesia night
train between Rome and Paris. We did this so that we would have a private
bathroom and shower for our use in the morning. On the plus side: the
cabin and bedding was quite nice with real cotton sheets and little toiletry
kits for our use. Champagne on departure was an elegant treat. Breakfast
was tasty and satisfying.
On the down side: the train ran out of water in our car meaning the showers didn't work and the toilets didn't flush from about midnight until our arrival in Paris at 10 am (yuck). It was impossible to sleep on the train as it alternated between full acceleration, full braking and going around corners at breakneck speed.
On the whole, we should have
taken the day train and spent our money for a hotel room. For what we
paid we could have spent two extra nights in Paris.
J
Calgary, Canada 08/27/03
Good Experience
I took the night train from Amsterdam to Munich. It was worth every cent:
good night's sleep, no border problems, shower was down the hall. I didn't
use it; waited till I got to the pension in Munich. Nice little breakfast
at 6am.
Mike
Silicon Valley / San Jose, CA USA 07/18/03
Consider Positives and Negatives
I think Hallie, below, had great advice for first time Europe-goers. Overnight
train travel is not as fun as it seems and is not for everyone. Rick is
right about it being a great time and money saver, but in some cases the
negatives outweigh the benefits. On our Nice to Rome train all the sleepers
were booked so we sat in a couchette. We had it all to ourselves (alright,
a free bed)! But as we descended from France into Italy the train just got
scarier with every stop and I didn't sleep a wink. About three hours from
Rome there was a loud argument in the couchette next door as an Italian
woman was robbed and the police came on board. It was a big scene with lots
of yelling and such. The unlockable door on couchettes is a little unnerving
in those situations. I'd advise always paying extra for sleeper cars on
night trains, and if one isn't available, measure your sleep/comfort/security
concerns against your need to get to the next place quickly. Crime happens
everywhere of course, but we felt safer on French and Spanish night trains
than Italian ones.
Herndon
San Antonio, TX USA 07/14/03
night train firenze
to paris
Did the Florence to Paris night train, a T2 compartment. I recommend when
travelling into or out of Italy to pay the extra money for a sleeper rather
than a couchette, for the simple reason that you can lock your door. I've
heard one too many horror stories of gassed robberies on couchettes, esp.
in Italy. I have done the couchette route 3 times and the first, because
of the stories as well as a train strike, slept little. The others were
fine.
The night train with my mom
from Florence to Paris was a lifetime experience for us. We shopped first
in the neighborhood around the station, procuring Parmesan cheese (to
die for) at one place, marinated olives and stellar (inexpensive of course)
wine at another, and finally bread at the bakery. And of course water,
which is a necessity. We skipped the dinner service (but not the complimentary
champagne!) and had our picnic in the small compartment. Yes you skip
your morning shower but you can do it the european way in your private
sink and just clean the necessary parts. My mom is a typical "clean
American" but she went with the flow and still had a fabulous time!
Just like all travel to a foreign place the trick is to relax and be open.
One thing, though, I am a very heavy sleeper and on this trip I did not
sleep very well, something about the lurching of the train, but for contrast,
my light-sleeping mother did just fine! Go figure!
Diane
Portland, OR USA 07/12/03
Save your money!
If you are travelling first class on an overnight train and have the money
to pay for a sleeper, then do it. Just be warned that you have no control
over your bunkmates, the temperature, or the time the lights go out. Don't
waste your money on couchettes, they are just six cramped seats in a small
compartment with a door, not worth the extra money. Sitting in first class
is more that comfortable, just bring earplugs and a towel. You can use it
as a pillow or a blanket. By far the best thing I brought on my trip!
K. Candullo
Ridgefield, CT USA 07/07/03
sleeping on trains
I don't see how Rick being as tall as he is can do it. Even though I am
not claustrophobic and I packed light, my second sleeping compartment experience
just 10 days ago from London to Inverness, Scotland was horrible. the tickets
were really expensive, and two people with bags can barely turn around in
the room, plus if you get on the train at 8:30 p.m. like we did, you can't
sit in a seat until bedtime if the train is full and the first class passengers
get first dibs on the club car seats. England was having a heat wave and
we were in a sweltering cabin with no window. Next time I would pay for
first class seats with more leg room and take my chances sleeping sitting
up. It was miserable!
Chere Weiss
Kelso, WA USA 07/05/03
To Ryan....Prague night train...
Just fly to Prague...My friend and I took the night train to Prague from
Frankfurt in March, we had the 1st class cabin and it NO better. It was
our first experience with night trains and it was awful, the 3am border
wake up was very scary. I have just now convienced my friend that all night
trains can't be that way and we will try another the next time we go to
Europe. With all that aside...I loved Prague, it was wonderful....
Rhonda
Fort Worth, TX USA 07/04/03
Train to Prague
I took the night train to Prague from Stuttgart, and back again. I was stuck
on a decades old/communist era train that was an absolute nightmare! I was
stuck on the top bunk in a 6 sleeper car, it was extremely hot, the beds
were uncomfortable, and the people riding in the car with me wouldn't put
the window down to let cool air in. It was horrible! After I had finally
gone to sleep, we were awoken at 3 am by the border guards. It also didn't
help that in Nurnberg the trains were seperated and we spent an eternity
being jostled back and forth. Honestly, I hated the night train to Prague,
and when I do it again...I am paying more to be upgraded to first class,
or I am flying!
Ryan
Germany, 07/04/03
Train from Florence to Paris
We booked the first class private cabin for two on the night train from
Florence to Paris. It was during the recnt heat wave in Italy and although
the train was airconditioned it shut off every time the train stopped in
each little town. It was very hot and especially uncomfortable on the top
bunk. I wish we had opened the window, novice that I was, didn't know it
would open. The train personel was not helpful in showing how everything
worked but they were cheerful in offering champagne. The dining car was
fun but overpriced for the meal. Definitely bring ear plugs to sleep. Still
it was an adventure.
charlotte
denver, co USA 06/30/03
T4's, getting a shower, reserving
Pre-trip shower. Check with your hotel to see if it is possible to shower
after checking out. After touring Rome we returned to our hotel to collect
our bags late in the day. I found out the hall restroom had a shower, so
I asked the clerk if I use it. She said ok, but it would cost 2 Euros since
the maid had already cleaned. That was the best 2 euros we spent after a
sweaty day in Rome & before a long night train.
T4 bunks - We took 4 night trains in T4 compartments (i.e., 4 bunks). It is just a T6 with the middle bunks folded away. This made it quite roomy & a T4 was not too costly. It seemed I had to stress I wanted a T4 when reserving @ the station instead of a T6 (even had to have them re-print the reservation once). To/From Prague my wife & I even had the compartment to ourselves. Regardless, sleeping on a night train isn't the easiest (used Tylenol PM to help), and it was hot through Italy (hate to be on one of these mid-summer). I brought cable ski locks for our packs, but never used them. We were always able to lock the compartment, and our bunk partners were no threat as well.
Reserving in Europe - Before leaving home, I printed
out the exact night train route with the exact date I needed from the
German rail site. I then just handed that to the station clerk to reserve
- but still had to identify the sleeper type. I went through a bit of
a hassle in Italy trying to book our sleeping compartments. I first tried
a Verona travel agency, but they could not reserve routes that originated
outside Italy (& I didn't' want Rome to Spiez if I couldn't get Zurich
to Vienna the next night). The train station was able to book these routes,
but of course that meant standing in line (& 1 out of 5 agents spoke English).
Brian
Silverdale, WA USA 06/05/03
booking and politeness
Tip for night trains: book before if you travel in groups. If you don't,
you may not be able to find beds in the same compartment. A side note about
politeness: "is the not showering part in the morning [so you smell more
european...big deal]" Do you know that this is exactly the kind of reflexion
that may get you hostility from the locals? As if I had never encountered
a foul-smelling American in the US! :-)
Bernard Marmotte
Paris, France 05/30/03
Get a Sleeper
Night trains are great. But you need to reserve well in advance to
get a sleeper compartment (which is well worth the extra money if you can
afford it. I know you are sleeping and supposedly won't know the difference.
Personally I don't buy that though. I fealt much safer and was able to sleep
much easier knowing it was just me and my g/f. Just book early (2 months
if you can). And USE EURAIDE. They are awesome!
jim
USA 05/27/03
Possible strikes in Italy
Our family tried to take the night train from Zurich to Rome April 12th
(11.5 hours.) Train strike in Italy! Hadn't considered that possibility
in all our planning. Thankfully we could switch to 'Plan B' and drive (we
left at 3 am Palm Sunday and had no traffic.) Otherwise we would have lost
a day or two and hotel charges. The Swiss were very quick to give us a full
refund on our round trip train tickets.
CSS
05/19/03
Sleeping
A lot of comments about the Paris to wherever trains. I took the Berlin
to Cracow train 10 hours over night.... Anyone doing this please for gods
sake reserve a double sleeper.. well worth the 80 euros, splurge a little..
While not the Intercontinental it was clean, "safe" and hey we even recieved
coffee and a pre wrapped pastry.
Phil W
Chicago, IL USA 05/14/03
Sleeping on Trains
Years ago my friend and I took the night train from Rome to Paris. We'd
both read "Europe Through the Backdoor", and noted certain advice about
women traveling on trains. We'd originally gotten into the wrong compartment
(the reserved card outside the door didn't look right to me), so I went
to check with the conductor. When I got back, my friend was in the corridor,
convulsed with laughter. When I peeked into the correct compartment, I saw
4 nuns - Rick Steves had advised that it was safest to travel with nuns.
They were very nice. Showed us where to stow our luggage. But it was definitely
lights out by 9:00 pm.
Mary N
San Francisco, CA USA 05/12/03
Pro-Night Trains
My last trip to Europe was with three other people, and we booked a T4 from
Paris to Rome. Two of us slept fine, two of us less so, but none of us were
wrecked for the next day. Also took the Paris-Venice NT in a T4 again, but
with two other strangers in the room. My biggest beef is the not showering
part in the morning [so you smell more european...big deal] and being a
bit sleepier than normal maybe. But when it comes to that or scratching
a day of some other wonderful experience, I don't hesitate. It's not 'comfy'
as my own bed, but that's not what I look for when I travel. Happy travels.
Kevin Kossowan
Edmonton, Ab Can 05/07/03
Couchettes
We tried couchettes between Paris and Hamburg. 2nd class. Roommates came
back in well after midnight, waking everyone up. I was dragging the whole
next day.They must have been designed for people only about 5 feet tall,
as I didn't fit well. My wife wasn't thrilled with them either. Sleeping
in regular seats probably would have been better for us.
Bob and Ingrid Krajicek
New Paltz, NY USA 04/26/03
Night Train Germany to Prague
Just took the night train from Weimer to Prague and Prague to Frankfurt
Easter Weekend. Unfortunately there were no sleeper cars available. Experience
was terrible due to loud, unsupervised teenagers and smokers in nearby cars
who would not adhere to the nosmoking policy. While two of us ended up with
a six seat cubicle for most of the ride, it was impossible to sleep. Strongly
suggest planning ahead and paying for a sleeper car if you get the chance.
Joanne Parkes
Geilenkirchen, GE 04/20/03
Sleepers vs. Couchettes
We just returned from a two week trip and took a couchette one night and
a sleeper another. We took the couchette from Munich to Ljubljana, Slovenia.
This is only a six hour trip. We lucked out and had no one else in our compartment,
but it is more difficult to sleep when you are awakened twice for passport
checks.
We took the sleeper with private bath from Rome to Paris which is a 14
hour journey, and had Euraid arrange this about 6 weeks in advance. You
board in Rome at 7 pm and arrive in Paris around 9 am. It was the one
splurge of our trip, and was definitely worth it. When we boarded, we
were served Champagne. We had dinner in the restaurant car and the steward
asked what time we wanted to be awakened and have breakfast. He took our
passports so we would not be awakened in the middle of the night. It was
really nice to be looked after. Breakfast was in our compartment and we
arrived in Paris ready for a full day of sightseeing.
DN
Jamestown, NC USA 04/14/03
Staging a Coup-shette
We tried (not knowing any better) to reserve a sleeper the same night we
were traveling. Of course there were none available. When I asked if it
were possible to buy the whole compartment of six couchette bunks, the conductor
looked at me as if I had 2 heads but agreed. Even though we did not have
our own bathroom, we did have peace of mind sleeping without random bunkmates
and behind a locked door. We folded up the two middle bunks, put our luggage
on the top two, and slept on the bottom two. We actually got a decent night's
sleep. For less than the cost of a private sleeper compartment, I'd do it
again!
USA
USA 04/02/03
Taking Night Trains
Having taken several night trains across Europe within the past two years
I feel it necessary after reading some of these posts to say it one more
time: You get what you pay for and there's a reason they call it second
class. I agree about reserving accommodations early, up to 60 days in advance.
OK, so you don't want to pay those supposedly exhorbitant RailEurope prices
for a reservation. But do you also want to sleep in accommodations that
you don't want? A lot of folks who adore Rick Steves seem to be so busy
trying to "save money" that they seem to forget about comfort. A memorably
positive experience is worth a few more dollars.
Train Taker
Washington, DC USA 04/02/03
Sleeping on train Munich to Paris
My wife and I had a terrible experience on a sleeping car from Munich to
Paris. We had arranged for a double bed compartment and it looked great
in the pictures. Instead, we got a double berth with metal to metal noise
all night long. Coffee for two was $10 as the conductor had no change. A
bad experience never to be repeated.
Bill Jacoby
San Elijo Hills, CA USA 01/17/03
CityNightLine Hamburg-Zürich
Taking the CityNightLine from Hamburg to Zürich was interesting. If you
get a double-bed compartment, be prepared for a tight squeeze. There is
no shower on this train, and the bathrooms are down the hall. However there
is an available sink but you can't drink the sink water (most of you might
already know that), so the train crew gives bottles of drinking water included
in the compartment reservation fee, and there is also a special mouthwash
fluid, diluted of course. Sleeping at night may be a challenge, as you have
to contend with stopping and starting. If you are at a standstill and you
see some light, you are likely at a stop only to disembark. At the latest
breakfast time, you will most likely be past Basel.
Josh Hanz
Foster City, CA USA 11/23/02
Reserve night trains well ahead of time
Reserve well ahead of time. We had a first class railpass and attempted
to reserve a T2 from Paris to Venice 3 days in advance. Alas all first class
sleeping beds were already reserved and we had to get a 4 bunk couchette.
This was in October and I'm not sure if that's peak or off peak time for
Paris.
Brandon
WV USA 10/31/02
Locking my bag
Over the past 23 years, I've traveled on a lot of European night trains,
and (luckily) have never been robbed. If someone wants your bags bad enough,
they will find a way to get them. However, if you make it inconvenient for
them, they will often move on. I bring a ~1/8" stainless steel cable on
my trips. I buy the cable and the crimps (for making the loops) at a hardware
store, then assemble it. (Much cheaper than buying a fancy one from a traveler
website.) It weighs very little and is the perfect complement to a money
belt. On the night train, I loop it through at least 2 loops/rings on my
bag, and lock it to the luggage rack. Several times, a fellow traveler has
asked if I minded using the extra length of the cable to lock their bag
too. Of course (but I keep the key), and if it's the last night train on
my trip, I give them a cable when we part company. :) I'm still friends
with an Italian whom I met in 1986 under these circumstances.
Paul
USA 09/11/02
Sleeping Compartments
I took 2 night trains while in Europe. The first was from Zurich to Florence.
This was a 6 person compartment and I was on the top bunk. It was at least
10 degrees hotter on the top than on the bottom. In the summer I would suggest
the bottom bunk. The second was from Florence to Paris. On this trip I was
in a 4 person compartment. It was much nicer than the 6 person compartment
and the AC worked better. It was definately worth the extra 10 euros to
have a little more space and better AC.
Jeff
Miami Beach, FL USA 08/30/02
Night train experience
I took three night trains while in Europe in April. I was a little nervous,
but had a nice trip every time. All my bunkmates were very friendly and
polite and a small breakfast was served each morning. The conductors were
very diligent about giving me back my documents prior to getting off the
train, and the few times I had to get up very early they were good about
waking me up (though I would take a travel alarm clock just in case). Two
of the compartments had a small sink which was nice. None of the WCs were
anything to brag about, but that was okay. I would do it again since it
is such a great way to go long distances and not miss out on any sightseeing.
Remember to take earplugs too..one night I had a hard time sleeping because
of all the noise of the car on the rails. The only unsettling experience
I had was in the La Spezia, Italy station with some unsavory characters
lurking about while I was waiting on the train at ~11pm. Otherwise it was
great!
Lora
Kingsport, TN USA 08/21/02
UKRAINIAN NIGHT TRAINS
I just returned from a solo trip to Ukraine and night trained it from Odesa
to Kiev, Kiev to Lwow and Lwow into Romania. It was an outstanding experience.
Never once did I feel uneasy or not safe. The people were friendly and quite
frankly I dont think the people in charge of the wagons wanted any trouble
under their charge. In fact on the Lwow to Romania train word got out when
the passports were collected at the borders that an American was on board.
The girl in charge of my wagon searched me down and begged for some momento,
pin, banner, postcard etc. of the US because it was still such a rarity
that a US Citizen was traveling on that train. So if you go be sure to have
with you some little items to give away!
DAVE
BUFFALO, NY USA 08/16/02
Night train Copenhagen-Oslo
No, unfortunately there is no night train between Copenhagen and Oslo anymore,
and actually no direct train at all between those cities. The night trains
stopped running last summer. To go by train between Copenhagen and Oslo
you have to change trains in Gothenburg (Göteborg), Sweden. There are two
daily connections with a change in Gothenburg. There are other possibilities,
though. By bus (www.eurolines.dk, www.nor-way.no or www.safflebussen.se),
or with the big and comfortable DFDS Seaways ferry (www.scansea.com), this
is almost like a cruise ship! The ship departs in the evening and arrives
the next morning.
Chrismo1
08/15/02
No Night Train from Copenhagen to Oslo
Contrary to what is stated in Rick Steve's "Scandinavia," THERE IS NO NIGHT
TRAIN FROM COPENHAGEN TO OSLO. Do not get stuck like I did thinking that
you can do this. Also, if you are traveling from Oslo to Stockholm or vice
versa, be sure to book your train at least 2 months in advance - especially
if you are travelling on a Sunday or at a reasonable time. These trains
are X2000s (high speed) and are booked two to three months in advance -
an exception to the general rule that you cannot reserve a seat before 24
hours in advance of your ride.
Debbie Borman
Chicago, IL USA 08/13/02
Night Trains
I organized travel for a small group of friends this summer. We took several
night trains: Paris-Florence, Rome-Munich, Frankfurt-Copenhagen and Copenhagen-Amsterdam.
We had 1st class railpasses and had either double or triple 1st class cabins.
The night trains are an experience. As many others have noted, bring plenty
of water, snacks and ear plugs if you're a light sleeper. I found the top
bunks to be stuffy and made me a little claustrophobic. Continental breakfast
is included in the 1st class cabins. We had a lot of luggage by the end
of the trip, but there were locked luggage areas in our car. We just took
a small bag into our "room." We felt pretty grungy when we arrived, but
the overnight travel is an efficient way to cover a lot of distance. It's
also sometimes frustrating to figure out which cabin is the right one. Sometimes
the cars were out of order.
Merikay
IL USA 08/11/02
Sleeping on Trains
We slept on a train from Prague to Warsaw on July 25-6, 2002. We thought
we'd sleep the night through, but our train stopped at the border at 3 a.m.
while border guards woke everyone up to check passports. No problems at
all, just be aware that that happens.
John Saxon
Colorado Springs, CO USA 08/09/02
4 night trains
Just got back from a 15 day trip and it was great. We took 4 overnight trains
(Paris-town near Interlaken-this was quite spacious and the conductor was
very helpful, Interlaken-Rome-a bit more cramped than the first and a rougher
ride by far, Venice-Munich-the car was extremely hot and took a couple of
hours to reach a comfortable temperature-it was the smallest car, and Munich-Amsterdam-this
sleeper was new, sparkling clean, spacious and we got a great night's sleep
on it). We always got a first class private double couchette and it was
well worth it. I am a light sleeper, but ear plugs helped tremendously.
My advice: bring ear plugs, bring lots of water on board with you, and say "yes" to breakfast - it's generally included in the price of your couchette
(at least it was in our case).
Jannel
SD USA 08/07/02
One Amsterdam/Paris night train
There is one night train from AMS -> PAR: #288 which leaves around 1030p
and arrives around 655a. It is operated by Dutch railways, not the Thalys
consortium. I was traveling on a 1st class pass, so the 6-person couchette
supplement was around 13 Euros. Some trains do not have all types of couchettes...I
don't think the AMS/PAR train has T4 compartments, though. As far as types
of couchettes, whether a single, double, triple, T4 or T6, they are all
reserved, although you can purchase a spot on the train if space permits
(not recommended for a group like yours). I've heard Euraide does good work
for stateside reservations, but I haven't used them myself. There is plenty
of info about types of couchettes out there...try google for searching help.
TrickyC
Atlanta, GA USA 08/06/02
Sleeper train observations
Depending on the distance traveled, night trains can be an inexpensive night's
sleep (and somewhat comfortable to boot). On a recent trip through central
Europe, I took two night trains: Amsterdam to Paris, and Dijon (from Paris
Bercy) to Venice. The Ams./Paris train was interesting as the distance between
the two cities is so short, the train actually stops for almost 3.5 hours
midroute! I got a great night's sleep on this train (in a T6 compartment),
although the pre-7am arrival is early. The Dijon/Venice train was noteworthy
because I boarded after the originating station. You really have to be aware
of your car number (waiting in the right spot on the platform) and be prepared
for claiming your reserved spot in the dark with people sleeping around
you. In all, if you are a light sleeper, the swaying cars or track noises
can prevent you from getting decent sleep. I have also found that some eyeshades
and earplugs can go a long way to getting you to sleep quickly.
TrickyC
Atlanta, GA USA 08/05/02
Passport issue
One item that caused me concern at first. The attendant wanted to keep our
passports overnight. I was not prepared for that, but complied. Just be
advised.
Angus Black
Columbus, OH USA 08/01/02
Paris (Bercy) to Venice
We took the overnight Paris (Bercy) to Venice train on June 21st. Went in
the 6 person car. My wife, son and I shared a car with a married couple
and a single woman. My tips for this train: Arrive early, it is a bit of
a challenge to find if you take the Metro. The station is actually a short
walk beyond the main station. There is a small sandwich shop along the way.
Stop and buy some food there. The ham and cheese is good (not the tourist
type "jambon de Paris"). Eating in the dining car involves making reservations
(early) and shelling out for a seven course meal. The top bunks are the
most desirable as they have more head room. All have reading lamps. Put
your carry-on at the foot of the bed with your feet on top. If the WC on
your car is "busy", go through to another car to find a vacant (or cleaner)
one. Smokers hang out between cars and in the aisles by the open windows.
Didn't sleep well; didn't sightsee...not sure I'd do it again...it does
give you more time in you destination, but it lacked the romance...for me.
But then, Venice has plenty of romance...even if it was hot and crowded.
Angus Black
Columbus, OH USA 08/01/02
Night Trains
My husband and I took 2 night trains in late May. The one from Frankfurt
to Paris was a 6-person couchette. I was nervous about this, but it ended
up being fine. Of course you have to know that Europeans are not shy about
where they dress! I will admit on a train like this, you take your chances.
We heard people fighting in the next car, but the people in our car were
extremely nice. From Nice to Rome, we were able to get a 2-person sleeper.
It was excellent! The car was really quiet. You get your own sink and they
serve you breakfast! I would highly recommend the 2-person car. Our experience
was that we were so tired from sightseeing all day that by the time we got
to the train, we slept right through! Happy train riding!
Joyce Bertoch
Kansas City, MO USA 07/26/02
Night trains
Just got back from our trip and it was great. I was told to have low expectations
on the trains, and with that in mind, it worked out fine. We were fortunate
to be traveling in a group of 4 and had our T4 room to ourselves from Paris
Bercy to Rome. Note: there is no luggage storage at the Bercy station. We
were able to sleep on the train, it was not that noisy, and we brought plenty
of water and sandwiches (BRING THINGS TO EAT!). The next two night trains
(from Rome to Vienna and from Vienna to Berlin) were also good. But, we
had a 1st class rail ticket but were given 2nd class couchettes (6 berths
per car).It was explained to me that many of the Italian trains do not have
1st class couchettes. But, we lucked out, and there was only 4 of us on
one train and we had one additional person in our car on another trip. Luckily
he was clean and actually helpful. Overall, sleeping on trains worked for
us and saved time and money. We made most of our reservations through Eurail,
but they could not get all the trains we wanted. I then contacted Euraide
and they took care of it no problem. Next time, I will book exclusively
through them, since they did such an outstanding job. PS. Make sure you
use the toilets early in the trip. They will be destroyed by the end of
the train ride.
Greg L
San Jose, Ca USA 07/23/02
ok, so i understand the complaints about night trains, but i am a deep
sleeper.... and i did find this the best way to travel. quite often, i will
stay somewhere for a few days, but than bounce around on night trains for
a few days. to enjoy ourselves, my cousin and i brought food and water.
most of the time we would bring a bottle of wine, a great way to help you
sleep a little easier on the rocking trains. i thought night trains were
beneficial for long travels, like marseille france to switzerland, or even
for short trips, like amsterdam to paris, by taking the slow train overnight.
USA 07/20/02
Paris-Venice night train
We took the Paris-Venice night train from Bercy station on June 17, the
day a heat wave hit. My family of 4 was in a T4 couchette, labelled "Comfort" class. The air conditioner in our car was not working, and the attendant
indicated that he was aware of it at the start and couldn't do anything
about it. Needless to say, this made it pretty uncomfortable till we got
to the Alps. (The AC in the attendant's car worked fine.) Also, I agree
with posters who advised to bring lots of water, as it was virtually impossible
to obtain it on board.
Fred Rowe
Fair Oaks, CA USA 07/20/02
Sharing Sleeping Compartments
I have to warn those of you who tend to be shy about sleeping arrangements...
you may be spending the night with several new "friends" who snore, smell
interesting, or come in at any stop during the night. For a light sleeper
like me, it wasn't a good night's rest. For a shy person like my old-fashioned
mom, it was NOT a comfortable night! She swears she'll never do this again.
It was also very warm in the compartment because one of our "friends" turned
on the heater. I opened the window to cool off the situation, but this made
it noisy. Make your overnight decisions with this in mind...
DL
MO USA 07/04/02
Night Train (Collioure/Paris)
We took the night train from Collioure to Paris and while I did not sleep
well, I can't think of a better way to make that trip without killing a
day. We were in a private berth called a T2 by SNCF and while small and
both beds being up above, it was fine. Between these larger compartments
are smaller ones that would be perfect for 1 person. We did notice that
the A/C worked much better in these compartments. I believe it is because
they are lower. If you are traveling a long distance from a more remote
location, night trains make sense to me. I understand that the "Hotel Trains" are much nicer and have shower in the compartments...anybody have any experience
with these?
Keith
Dallas, TX USA 07/01/02
Milan-Munich and Paris-Rome night trains
I'd recommend night trains if you plan for them. And pick up food and water
- lots of water. Last year (in May) I traveled alone and a missed connection
in Milan from Nice to Munich forced me to try the night train. It turned
out to be a great experience. I had to get the berth on the train (too late
for reservation), which turned out to be pretty open. I paid 60 US dollars
or so on top of my first class ticket, and luckily got a double compartment
by myself. It was a German train and sparklingly clean. I slept all the
way to Munich and was perfectly ready for the castle tours with the Mike
s Bike Tours. The Munich train station s luggage lockers were also great.
I just took my family for a trip around Europe, and rode the night train
from Paris (Bercy Station - one stop from Gare de Lyon) to Rome. We looked
into this carefully and reserved a 4-person couchette using our first class
Railpass, 2 days ahead of the ride in Paris. $30-or-so per person. This
was an Italian train. Clean but not quite up to the German standard. One
peculiar thing was that the WC had no seat (???), and that was about the
only complaint we had. All four of us slept well through the night, and
got to see the Italian coastline before the train pulled into the Roma Station.
From there it was an easy, one-stop metro ride (walk is easier) to the recommended
Hotel Aberdeen (excellent hotel recommended by Rick S.!!) The train ride
was 14 hours long, and by going overnight we had the entire next day to
see the Colosseum and Forum area. All in all, night trains are a good way
to travel and they save you some precious time, if you try to pack many
things into a short tour like we did. Plan ahead, travel light, relax, and
bring water (not just one little 500ml thing - get the big 1.5 liter bottles).
A bottle of wine is a great way to relax (and break the ice if you have bunkmates) and help you fall into sleep. I did not find the trains to be
noisy at all. The night train conductors can be a big help. I was told by
the Milan train station staff to tip the conductor to help get a better
seat/berth. It worked for me in Milan. Try it if you need that help.
TR
Dallas, TX USA 06/22/02
3 Night Train Experiences
On a recent trip my sister-in-law took a total of 3 night trains. First
generally I would strongly recommend that you evaluate as best you can beforehand
your ability to get a good night's rest on a train. If you're a heavy sleeper
and feel the rattling, stopping, screeching, jiggling, etc. that trains
make all through the night as well as a cold or hot train car won't bother
your sleep, then night training is likely a great time-saving option for
you. But if you're (like me) a light sleeper and need ideal, quiet conditions
for a good night's sleep I would think twice. Of all 3 nights on the night
trains (not done consecutively, but rather spread throughout a 2+ week trip)
I got absolutely zero sleep! It was awful. I had night trained in Europe
before but had forgotten just how miserable it can be for a light sleeper
like me--even my sister-in-law who is one of the heaviest sleepers I know
didn't sleep. My reasoning in suggesting that light sleepers take day trains
for these longer routes as opposed to night trains is that by the time we
reached our hotels from off the night train we were just exhausted, sleep-deprived
and in need of a shower. So each time we spent the first half of the day
showering, napping and gearing up for what time and energy we had left that
day to sightsee. We could have slept soundly the night before in a hotel,
taken a relaxing morning day train and arrived at our hotel ready to tackle
the sights of that city in the same time it took us to recuperate and ready
ourselves for sightseeing after the night train. So the night train experience
for us really saved us no time and really wore us thin. If you do decide
to night train and know your itinerary ahead of time I would strongly recommend
booking these night trains in advance, before you leave on the trip! We
did this and it was so nice not to have to worry about this upon arrival
(and two of the night tains we took were fully booked in advance). We used
EurAide and their service was perfect--everything went so smoothly. I would
highly recommend them--they really know what they're doing. Our night train
experiences: FRANKFURT TO PRAGUE The most important thing I can say here
is to book a private compartment. Since many of these trains are Czech trains,
they're old and crummy AND filled with rowdy teens and theives--ours was
no exception. It was such a comfort to know it was just the two of us in
the compartment. VIENNA TO VENICE The train was nicer, much nicer. We booked
a quad here and a pitaful (but nice gesture) little breakfast was included.
It was a nice, smooth train ride. MILAN TO BARCELONA This was the special "train hotel" run by Elipsos. I believe there is no other way to do this
route overnight. There are other night trains in Europe (France-Spain, Italy-Spain)
like this and I would definitely book in advance. They don't run daily and
are popular with Europeans. The train was nice, nicer than the second one.
We booked a quad--the cheapest non-seat accommodation on the train. It was
still expensive, but not horrible. Good luck!
Hallie
London/San Francisco, USA 06/21/02
Saviours everywhere for the weary travellers
My husband and I were stranded in Helsingborg at the railway station waiting
for the next train to Oslo several years ago. A train driver(bound for Stockholm)
offered us a sleeping cabin, "but you will end up in Stockholm" It was midnight
we were exhausted and grabbed at the chance.After a sleep we were better
able to make our way to Oslo the next day. Very thoughtful train driver!
By the way always reserve your seat on trains, dont assume if you have a
ticket you will get a seat!!!! That was our problem.
Denise
adelaide australia, SA Australia 06/14/02
Munich to Milan
DER messed up our couchettes reservation and only got us seats in this overnight
train. I basically did not get any sleep at all. At first we got our own
compartment, but people were walking around and I was worried about our
bags cause there were no locks on the door. Then in the middle of nowhere,
two people joined us and we had to try to sleep in semi-sitting position.
Fortunately, we were safe and nothing was lost or stolen. Just tired. Really
suggest people to get couchette, not expensive and good sleep while traveling.
James
Vancouver, BC CANADA 06/11/02
Venice to Vienna
We took the night train from Venice to Vienna. We were in the 6 couchettes
compartment. It was pretty nice and we got good sleep. The air conditioning
is pretty cold too, make sure you wear enough clothes. The conductor collected
our rail pass and return it to us in the morning with the free breakfast
vouchers. It only cost 42 Euro for 2 couchettes.
James
Vancouver, BC CANADA 06/11/02
Food and Water
I've read it a dozen times but I'll say it again. Bring enough food and
water! There are some trains that are pure torture and you'll need lots
of water to make it through comfortably. Patras to Athens in the dead of
summer comes to mind right away. Barcelona to Pampolona for the running
of the bulls is another one. Some ferries might require you to come prepared
as well. If worst comes to worst you will have to ask for help. I got very
dehydrated on the athens trip, nobody had any water left, but I settled
for some left-over yogurt.
Daniel
San Diego, CA USA 06/07/02
city night line
I took the city night line from mannheim to vienna, and I loved it!!! It
is much cleaner than the trains from Italy. One tip, if it is in your budget,
pay the extra $ for the 4 person room. For some reason, a woman in our 6
person room had to eat a pack of stinky potato chips right before she went
to sleep. smelly!
jim
dunkirck, md USA 06/04/02
City Night Line
My husband and I just got back from our 3 week European vacation and tried
out the Night Train thing from Berlin to Zurich. The train was City Night
Line so I can only comment on it, but my suggestion would be that if you're
over 6'-0" don't do the night train! If you are a single person there would
be enough space (the same size rooms are used for singles as doubles except
that one bed gets folded out of site), or if you were in a group of 4 the
rooms were much larger, but if you are a couple (tall couple) there simply
is not enough space to even do a 360 degree turn. Neither me or my husband
slept at all either since the train ride was extremely bumpy, slow and noisy.
We had another night train planned but quickly cancelled our reservation
as soon as we could opting for train travel during the day instead. As I
mentioned though...my experience was on the City Night Line. Other trains
may be different :). That was the only significant blip on our entire vacation
really.
Susan
Edmonton, AB CA 05/22/02
Paris to Venice
Just took the sleeper train from Paris to Venice and then later from Milan
to Paris. It was great! When leaving from Paris, be sure you know where
the station is. It was not easy to find and we made it there with just 5
minutes to spare. The train attendants on both trips were very friendly
and helpful. Kinda cramped on the Milan trip. I bought my tickets though
Rail Europe online. Already had rail pass. Each trip was $80 per person
for double. I would do it again. Saves sightseeing time.
AJ
Castro Valley, CA USA 05/09/02
Smoking or Non-smoking
We took the overnight train from Zurich to Salzburg in late February. I
reserved a couchette about a month before we left. I thought that, since
it was a Thursday night in winter, we wouldn't have any problems, but I
was really glad we reserved in advance, as the train was sold out. One suggestion — make sure to specify non-smoking if you need it. I didn't, and was put
into a smoking compartment. Of the four of us, only one man was a smoker.
The young Swiss man in the compartment asked the man to smoke outside, as
the other three of us didn't smoke. He wasn't happy about it, but agreed.
Just think what one of those small couchettes would be like with someone
smoking half the night!
Dell Nichols
Jamestown, NC USA 05/05/02
night train from Edinburgh to London
I think if you HAVE TO take a sleeper on the Brit or ScotRail Caledonian,
pay the piddly extra for first class. This way you have a sleeper compartment
to yourself with the top bunk stored away so that you can sit up on the
bunk without hitting your head..plus it affords you entrance to the First
Class Lounge car. I learned the hard way. My first (and recent) experience
found me scrunched in my lower bunk and no where to go except the narrow
hallway outside my sleeper. I must be a light sleeper because I did awaken
around every turn and weld...and quite frankly I felt claustrobic, and small
spaces don't usually bother me. I get the impression that European trains
are a bit roomier in the couchette and smoother in the ride.
David Putnam
Seattle, WA USA 04/25/02
Upgrades
When traveling on a night train with an Eurail pass it's sometimes worth
gambling with a regular, no extra charge, airline style seat and then trying
to get a reduced rate for a sleeper or a couchette from the train conductor
once the journey has started. It doesn't always work, I guess it probably
depends on the occupancy of the train, but I have managed a few times to
get a first class sleeper for less than the price of a couchette.
Nickyboy
USA 04/25/02
Munich to Zagreb, Croatia
Took an overnight train from Munich to Zagreb, Croatia on Mar 16. It was
our first trip. No one here — not even Rick in all his programs — has ever
addressed the number of times you're awakened to have your passports checked!
It was a 9 hour train trip and we were rousted out of bed at least 5-6 times
that I blearily remember to get our passports looked at by guys in uniforms.
We crossed Austria, the train stopped and the military came in and checked
passports. We crossed Slovenia and our passports were checked twice — once
by customs and once by the military. And finally, Croatia had two stops
to check our passports — military and customs checks. Each time, we were
loudly awakened (banging on the door and walls, loud voices) and there is
NO WAY to get any rest. How come no one ever talks about all the passport
checks???? It got to where I decided to sleep with my passport in my hands
so I didn't have to rummage around for it when the guys in uniform came
knocking.
Minnie
AZ USA 04/22/02
Paris to Rome Night Train
I took this train 2 years ago in July. We had a great time, after all,
but it was an experience. To start, we were heading down the platform
where they were handing out papers talking about a strike, and there would
be "no services on this train". By the time we got down to our car, it
looked like the scene of a third world country with the only train of
the week departing to civilization : Chaos. It took nearly 30 minutes
just to get on the car to our couchette. We arrived to discover a woman
and about 8 kids loaded in our 2nd class couchette which we had reservations
for. Fortunately, two students quickly translated my questioning the woman,
who claimed not to have any ticket or reservations, but since there was
a strike and they were not honoring tickets, she was taking this couchette.
I made it clear that I was honoring my tickets, and she needed to leave,
albiet, a little more forcefully since this was my first hope for sleep
after arriving to Paris that AM with no sleep for 2 days. After a brief
standoff she gave up, and we promptly aided with removing her luggage
and kids from the car.
From then on, I was the ticket checker, and each time the door opened
for the next two hours, I would examine tickets and send people away that
did not belong in our couchette. This amazed a young man from Paris, who
we had a fun time talking to. The rest of the night was tons of people
on and off. Babies with diaper changings, etc, no A/C, but we arrived
in Rome with our young friend, and with a lot of experience. It's not
always that bad, and being my first, I have not had anything near as challanging
on later trips. If you live for fun and experience, take the train. (1st
class doubles are a breeze). As for the woman, she moved to the coach
next door, where we got to hear her screaming and smacking the kids throughout
the rest of the trip.
Lew
Atlanta, GA USA 04/19/02
Night trains ain't bad
I have been reading these postings and mostly what I see is whine, whine,
whine. Europe is not Disneyland. The people aren't there specifically
to please you. I have travelled extensively throughout Europe and have
found night trains, for the most part, to be great. Yes, sometimes they
are noisy and you are sleeping with 3-5 other people but this is not the
Radisson. Just think of it as an experience and if you are a light sleeper
or close minded to new and different things, such as people walking around
in there underwear, rent a car. Some tips for night trains: Travel light,
don't pack the kitchen sink along with 4 other bags. If you can't fit
it into 1 bag, you don't need it. I personally would not take any sleeping
pills. There are thieves sometimes and what better time to lift your fancy
digital camera than when you are in a narcotic induced coma. Also, it's
hard enough to catch a connecting train in a foreign train without being
looped from sleeping pills or booze. Don't rely on anything in Italy.
Just be prepared to get there whenever.
A couchette is definately worth the extra money versus a seat. Inspect
your bed before you sleep in it. Most trains are really clean (especially
German, Swiss, and Scandanavian) but again, don't rely on anything in
Italy. Get to know your bunkmates. Most of them are very friendly and
would be happy to chat with you, even if neither of you speaks the same
language. Also, if you get to know your bunkmates they are more likely
to watch out for your stuff, so it doesn't get snatched. There are not
roving bands of thieves on every train, but the thieves that are around
are very smart and quick and can spot a goofy American from the next car.
So just be careful and watch your stuff. Hope this helps, email me if
you have any more questions.
Ben
Seattle, WA USA 04/18/02
Overnight to Copenhagen
For the train ride from Paris to Copenhagen, overnight, we tried making
the first class reservations three days in advance, with no luck. We had
to go second class. This is partly due to French train lady in reservation
desk making all our reservations 2nd class by mistake. She did see our 1st
class eurail pass, but was late for a date or something. So check all your
reservations to make sure you are in the right class. The train ride itself
was like a shake table. We barely slept.
L
USA 04/09/02
Couchette Munich to Venice
I had a great trip in Europe in October.. nothing but a train pass and a
backpack (from Rick). Wonderful!! Thanks Rick! Only a few "creepy" experiences
after 9/11, but one of them was overnight couchette from Munich to Venice.
While I arrived in Venice safely and without "event", I must admit, this
was a little lowlife and would advise you to fly or something else if you
can afford it. Too many risks and weird experiences on trains overnight.
I was NOT "gassed"/robbed or mugged, but it just felt creepy, and I have
much travel experience and "street smarts," yet even I felt uncomfortable.
Unless you are male or travelling in a group, I humbly suggest you find
a more comfortable and secure way to get to Venice overnight. Not preaching,
just some instinctive advice. I don't want to appear alarmist, just offering
advice based on "gut feeling.." Buon viaggio!
davequ
CO USA 04/06/02
Reservations
I can't believe that Rick would make the recommendation to never worry about
getting train reservations in the U.S. My husband and I are going to Germany,
France, and Italy in mid-May. I thought we were being a little extra careful
about looking into reservations ahead of time. I have just been informed
that there are only 6 person couchettes available on the night train from
Frankfurt to Paris. After hearing the horror stories on this board, we may
have to rearrange our plans because this is not sounding like a viable option.
Of course, we're traveling on Monday night of a holiday weekend. My advice,
try to avoid travel on a train during holiday weekends.
Joyce
USA 04/05/02
Re Rome-Paris night train
I will be taking the Rome-Paris night train at the beginning of May, and
am probably going to go for the double sleeper w/shower if not too expensive.
I'll post my experiences after I get back!
Lora
Kingsport, TN USA 04/04/02
Rome — Paris Train
My husband and parents will be taking the overnight train from Rome to Paris
in June. Couchettes have already been reserved for us, but we want to upgrade
to double sleeper car — hopefully with WC and shower. Has anyone done this
overnighter before? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Who would
be the best to contact about getting a point-to-point ticket? We will not
have railpasses. Thanks.
Marsha
Phoenix, AZ USA 04/01/02
trains in Europe
I am planning a trip through Europe in 2003 with my family of 4. 2 adults
and 2 teens 12 & 15. Good travelers. My questions can you reserve 4 berths
in the same room exclusive for a family of four. In Greece on the ferries,
it was random and I was separated from my husband and we had to negotiate
with other passagers to trade berths.
Nancy Jones
Austin , tx USA 03/24/02
Sleepers in Iberia
The sleepers in Spain and Portugal (Sud Express) were great. The attendant
wakes you up an hour before your stop. The 2 room cabins are a bit pricey,
but secure and very comfortable. If you are travelling solo and decide to
stay in one of these cabins the surcharge is very expensive (almost as much
as two people pay).
Peter Simmons
Vancouver, BC Canada 03/16/02
Sleeper train in Britain
My third ride on Scotrail's Caledonian sleeper train was good as usual two
days ago. We left Inverness late and got to London bit early. The breakfast
and newspaper served in your room was good. The first class room only cost
39 pounds with a first class rail pass, which in Jan. and Feb. costs only
$299 for eight days.
Ray Sturges
Burke, VA USA 02/26/02
Go Night trains
I have had some bad nights, (AC in the car was on full blast and I froze
the entire night) and some good nights. It really depends on you and your
level of tolerance for distractions and strange places. But if you are going
to sleep on a train, you need to keep a few things in ming.
1. you may get only one seat, depending on how full the train is, or half of one of the little cars with two bench seats. Some night trains need reservations, and you can tell if a seat is reserved by the piece of paper that will be on the door or over the seat next to the seat number. If you are lucky, there could be an open compartment for part or all of the trip. If there is, grab it (two people are best for this), close the curtains, stretch out, and snore heavily if anyone besides the conductor comes in.
2. If you don't get your own car, you must be able to sleep in a semi-upright position. Although I can sleep in almost any position (from all the travelling), it is not so easy for everyone. Something for your neck and something to cover your legs helps.
3.A bottle of beer or wine helps a lot. So do earplugs or headphones.
4. Try it once or twice — all the europeans sleep on trains, so can you.
5. Hopefully you just have a backpack (the only way to go — learn from the europeans on this one too) so sleep with your feet on it or something.
6. Don't miss your stop — set an alarm or something.
susan
Colchester (for now), TX UK (for 6 months) 02/02/02
sleeping on trains
Although my wife and I traveled on trains in 1981, I can say with certainty
that if you are a light sleeper, the myth of overnight train travel being
restfull, will leave you in a big sleep deficit. The incessant, rythmic
sound of crossing track welds and attendant bumps will lull you into a constant
wakefull state for the duration of your ride. Better to plan on nights in
a hotel/pension.
Bob Hansen
kentfield, ca USA 01/27/02
Night Train Alternative
If you find overnight trains undesirable, but do not want to waste a day
travelling, why not fly?
jason
miami beach, FL USA 01/22/02
Worried by the horror stories?
We were kinda leery to take a night train from all the horror stories we
read but didn't want to waste a day on travel. So, we reserved, from home,
a night trip from Paris to Rome. It was the cost of one night hotel. We
could not get a private sleeper so had to share a 4 bunk room. The sleeper
was totally full. Our biggest fear was to get stuck with some young drunk
hooligans but as it turned out we were sharing quarters with a mother and
her daughter from the US. We shares stories and snacks and had a great sleep.
WE ended up running into each other several times in Rome which was kinda
cool as well. This ended up a great way to meet people and a great way to
save a day of exploration!
Hannah
Canada 01/20/02
Things you need to pack for successful night train survival
Rick says that there is a thief on every train (union rules) which is a
fabulous reason to spring for a couchette. Usually for the cost of a hostel,
you can share a couchette with 5 other people. (Those wanting to share with
fewer people can book couchettes with only 2 or 4 beds). It is fabulous
to fall asleep in one city and awake in another.
To make the most of your overnight trip, several things are necessary. First, if you get on at the beginning of the trip, make sure you understand the controls above the door. Your temperature, light and lock are all controlled from there. This is more difficult if you catch a train mid-journey, but try to decipher them prior to climbing into bed.
Second, reserve your couchette 1-4 days ahead of your trip. Securing one the day of your journey is very difficult because they fill up fast.
Third, pick up something to eat and drink for the trip. A bottle of water is a must especially if you bring a bottle of wine to share with the couchette. Sharing a bottle of wine is a great way to make new friends and quickly slip off to dream world. However, drink plenty of water to keep hydrated so you ward off a hangover and are refreshed and ready in the morning for your new town.
What Rick doesn't say is that each couchette has a loud snorer (Murphy's law). To combat this, pack a small pair of earplugs. Pick up a pair from the local hardware store/drugstore. Additionally, bring a sleeping mask. The train will go through many well-lit stations during your journey and might even spend several hours at a well-lit station. While the screen on the window does filter out some light, if you need darkness, supply your own. If you forget your sleeping mask, a pair of clean socks can work in a pinch.
Finally, when reserving your couchette, you must choose your position.
The top is the shortest (by about 2 inches) due to the curve of the car,
but closest to the best storage space. You can keep your stuff near you
all night, but prepare to suffer from the heat during the summer. The
bottom is the coolest and has access to storage space under the bunk for
your items, but two pairs of feet hang in your face when your top-bunk-mates
sit up. The middle is the most temperate, but doesn't have any close storage
space.
Mike Kruger
Bassano Del Grappa, VI Italy 01/13/02
Free room
Remember most capitals are 4-6 hours apart so — — — during the off season
hanging around with luggage until 12 am or so to then be left off at 5 or
6am in the dark hauling luggage is not my idea of this free hotel room some
read about in som travel book in summer maybe !!
john Brangwin
Bellevue , Wa USA 12/13/01
Got Trained
Last week i got back from a trip to Great Britain. I decided to get a britrail
pass b4 i left, just for the fun of it. I coulda gone planing it all the
way, for a lot less, but the idea of train travel appealed to me. I took
the night train from London to Edinburgh via Glasgow. I guess those that
take the trains in europe have a lot more trouble than in the UK, but the
train was very nice. My room was a double bunkbed with a sink. My sleeper
car was about 1/2 full, and the rest of the train was probably even less.
I had the room to myself and I was on the end of the car opposite from the
WC, but it was alright. I got on the train at 2300, 40 min b4 train left.
It was supposed to be in Edingburgh at 0720, but it was after 9 b4 we pulled
into the station. The trip was great. No worse than riding in the car on
the freeways and sleeping, either it was smooth or I'm a heavy sleeper.
David
houston, tx USA 11/29/01
Our night train experiences:
1. Brussels-Vienna in Austrian 1st-class couchette was restful, clean, with
a continental breakfast.
2. Rome-Munich was an Italian 2nd-class couchette with five people total.
It was hot (in the top bunks), the sheets were like cheesecloth, and we
didn't have enough food with us. We should have paid for better beds.
3. Barcelona-Madrid was a 2nd-class bedroom with private shower. Very clean
and restful, but the same price as a pension room.
4. Southwest France- Nice was a 1st-class couchette. We paid on the train,
not too costly, and had the compartment to ourselves. Restful and clean.
In all cases we paid supplements on top of Eurail and made reservations
no earlier than the day before. My first advice is to avoid the cheapest
sleep if possible. Second is to reserve in advance. Third is to take enough
food and water to last the journey.
Dan
Vancouver, BC Canada 10/17/01
Sleeping trains are great. Just be careful though. Be sure you keep
your belongings locked or close to you when you sleep. My friends had their
rail passes stolen. Another friend had her purse stolen and another guy
in their couchette had his camcorder stolen. I definitely advise bringing
snacks. It's a lot cheaper than buying them on the train. Often times, they
don't sell alcohol on the trains. I also would advise bringing a sheet.
It's nice to know that you're sleeping with your own sheet rather than some
questionable ones. (Like Marc's experience — YIKES!) One more thing, if
possible, go first class. Only 4 to a car instead of 6. A lot more room.
Jennifer
Bellevue, WA USA 10/05/01
Sleeper Trains
My wife and I took a first-class sleeper from Berlin to Brussels. As an
aside, it was the day of the terrorist attacks when we arrived at the Zoo
Garten station in Berlin at 9:00 pm that evening. It's a huge, cavernous
train station. When we walked in, the station was broadcasting CNN on a
huge TV monitor hung from the ceiling. We estimated that there was at least
500-700 people standing, watching the broadcast. No one was talking. It
was eerily quiet. As for the sleeper, it was wonderful. The conductor was
very helpful, even brought us two extra pillows. He collected our passports
and train tickets as we arrived at our cabin (some US travelors get nervous
when this happens. Don't worry, it's standard practice in night trains that
cross into other countries. The conductor can deal with customs without
having to wake the passengers). He asks you for a wake-up time and brings
back your passport and tickets when he wakes you in the morning. The only
dissappointment came in the morning when I couldn't get hot water in the
small shower at the end of the car. Needless to say, it woke me up and resulted
in the shortest shower in history. I greatly recommend taking a sleeper
if your travels call for a trip of more than six hours. You save a day for
sightweeing and you arrive at your destination fairly well rested (some
people find it hard to sleep on a moving, sometimes jerking train) and ready
to enjoy the sights in your new location.
Roland Davis
Carol Stream, IL USA 10/03/01
As a family of 4 living in London, with relatives in Tuscany, we find
ourselves visiting Italy fairly often. Because we need a car when we get
there, we have to choose between (a)driving all the way (two full days at
the wheel with an overnight in Dijon), (b) flying — which means paying an
arm and a leg for car-rental or (c) Motorail. Having tried all methods,
motorail seems to have the edge. This is how it works... Drive from London
to Calais. Crossing the channel by car is easy with the Channel Tunnel or
just as easy and cheaper with the Hoverspeed Seacat. In Calais, you go first
to buy some provisions for the journey as there's no catering on the train.
Fresh baguettes, with hams, cheeses (choose the less smelly kind) fruit
and long-life yoghurt all work well. Also buy a litre-bottle of water per
person (no drinking-water on the train). Note that all the big supermarkets
in Calais are closed on a Sunday, but the Prisunic on the main street is
open, and has everything you need. Check-in at the Motorail terminal (there's
a little map they send you with the tickets). The earlier you get there,
then the sooner your car will be unloaded next morning. Take everything
you'll need on the train out of the car, but leave everything else in it.
Don't forget you'll be carrying the stuff about, so go easy. Whatever happens,
there'll be about an hour or so between handing the car over and the train
being ready to board, so make sure you can think of ways of keeping the
kids from getting bored. There is a children's playground there, so that
helps if it's not too wet. You'll have to board the train at Calais about
30 minutes before it's supposed to leave. On the motorail trains it's now
priced per car, and they book you one compartment per car-load, so you'll
get a sleeper or couchette depending on how many of you there are — Couples
will get a T2 compartment, 3 in a car will get a T3 — everyone else will
get a couchette compartment. The trip from Calais to Nice takes 16 hours.
It's a good idea not to go to bed too early, you have plenty of time to
sleep and it's easier to do if you are tired. In the morning, you will have
amazing views of the Cote d'Azure from the train from about 9am onwards.
The train pulls into Nice at about 10:30. Make your way to the station buffet
where breakfast is waiting — included in the price. It's not wanderful food,
but it fills in the time while they shunt the car wagons to the unloading
bays. By the time you've finished breakfast your car will be off the train,
and waiting for you. From Nice its a 3 hour drive to Tuscany.
Ray Lewis
London, UK 09/30/01
Overnight Train
Travelling on overnight train, indeed, save you on accomodation cost. Well,
you slept in one city and woke up in another. Did two overnight train; one
was from Paris to Munich. Took a couchette with 6 in a compartment, between
lower & upper berth, pretty low. Another was from Munich to Amsterdam and
this time was 4 in a compartment & much spacious. Serve breakfast too. Nevertheless,
it was overall comfortable. Had a good sleep thruout the night & along the
journey & waking up fresh & ready for the day.
Adi Sufnaidi
Singpore, Singapore 09/18/01
I took an overnight train from Basel to Amsterdam a few nights ago.
I and my couchette mates awoke the next morning with small, itchy bites
EVERYWHERE. I have them all over my arms, neck and torso. I don't know what
got us, but the sheets looked perfectly fresh and clean as we made our bed.
Marc
San Francisco, CA USA 09/10/01
Take food and water bottles on the overnight train. Some trains have
dining cars. Most don't. The dining car food is expensive, but It's a great
experience, since people are seated together until the booths are filled.
We sat with a man from China, who spoke a few words in English, a couple
words in French and Italian and mostly Chinese. Our group spoke English,
some French; my daughter spoke Italian and none of us spoke Chinese. As
we babbled away, trying to communicate with each other and our servers,
we had one of our most memorable experiences of our overnight train trips.
We were 3 women traveling together from Bologna to Paris on the overnight
train. We were able to upgrade to a 3 person couchetta by asking the conductor.
If space is available this can be a cost savings when done on the train
rather than by travel agent or in the train station. We were able to do
the upgrade twice, once traveling to Paris and also upon our return to Bologna.
It cost us $17 US dollars per person, additional, to upgrade. Had we reserved
this couchetta at the travel agency, it would have cost $100 additional.
In the train station, we were told there were none available.
Helaine Rainier
Toms River, NJ USA 09/03/01
We were taking a night train from Paris to Munich, hoping for a 1st
class sleeper there were only 4 and they were booked. We asked and we were
able to by the whole sixplex we had a complete room/minus bathroom to ourselves
we adjusted the top and middle bunks out of the way (disconnet the cable
that holds them down and up) and had a door lock. All this cost about 35$
US. Well worth it for privacy! The attendant took our papers, and returned
them to us when he woke us at 7 when we were arriving.
Hasschen
USA 09/03/01
We took the night train from Brindisi to Trieste, Italy — you always meet
some interesting people especially being two females in Italy. These two
guys were in our compartment and after trying to talk to them in Italian
for a while I lost interest and stopped talking completely. My poor cousin
had one of them hitting on her and he wouldn't leave her alone. I can sleep
through anything but I woke to her shouting at 3am "Don't you ever Sleep!!" We were in a Sleeper car but we got anything but quality sleep that night.
You wake up tired, dirty and ready to find a hotel. Think about the quality
of time you will have the next time when you take a night train. I prefer
to stay two nights in a city getting a full afternoon and a day rather than
a tired/groggy day. Most of our trip we planned to take short 3-4 hour train
rides and this gave us a good amount of time to plan for the next city we
were traveling to and a little time to write postcards and read any english
newspapers we could pick up.
Carrie
St. Louis, MO USA 08/28/01
My favorite overnight train ride was from Venice to Budapest. The window
to my couchette was stuck closed so I was transferred to the next one. The
Romanian mother-son traveling team seemed at first put-off by losing their
private couchette. But after showing them postcards from were I'm from (San
Diego) they treated me like I was semi-famous. Even though she was younger
than me, she started to mother me by offering to make my bed for me. When
she offered me a Coke I wanted to say no (It was after 10:pm) but didn't
have the heart to disappoint her. I was treated to a Coke shower when I
poped the top. She was horrified but I couldn't stop laughing. My bunk was
sticky all night but I didn't care.
Marcus
San Diego, ca USA 08/25/01
My wife and I booked a first class sleeping compartment on the overnight
train from Zurich to Florence. We boarded the train around 11PM. We goofed
and got on the wrong end of the train and then had to drag ourselves and
our luggage through about 10 cars before we found ours. The platform has
a sign showing the configuration of each train, but the coach number proved
to be different than the one shown on the ticket. The sleeper compartment
was clean and had three decent size beds stacked to the ceiling (we had
it to ourselves), which would be fine unless you are taller than 6 foot
or so. Pillows, sheets and blankets all satisfactory. It had a sink, but
it was stuffed up and the attendant couldn't unclog it. Since it was covered
over by a folding shelf, this was an annoyance but not too bad. It was warm
inside, but OK once we cracked the window open a little and left the shade
down. The attendant took our tickets and passports upon boarding, returning
the latter to us when we left the train. The compartment wasn't huge but
was roomy enough for us and our luggage. The WC was down the hall and useable.
I'm a light sleeper, but managed to sleep on and off from midnight until
6AM (my wife, a heavy sleeper, did better), when we were woken up by the
attendant and served breakfast (in various prepacked containers) of croissants,
crackers, cheese, ham, juice, and coffee. The train arrived in Florence
at 6:40AM, 10 minutes early! All-in-all, we would do an overnight train
again (it was expensive but saved what would have been an otherwise wasted
travel day trip), but we would try to board the train earlier to have more
time to settle in and go to sleep earlier.
Les
Miami, FL USA 08/22/01
I traveled recently in the off season from Berlin to Budapest by overnight
rail. With my Eurorail pass I was charged only an extra 25.00 USD for a
private room. It's a train not a hotel room. The view was fabulous as I
laid in bed and the motion soothing. Low expectations when traveling often
lead to higher satisfaction, I'll do it again
John McCord
Monterey, ca USA 08/18/01
Took the night train from Venice to Paris two weeks ago, three females.
When we booked the reservation in Milan, we requested a first class private
sleeper. The reservationist spoke no english, and handed us a reservation
pass with "couchette" printed on it. When we arrived in Venice, we found
a travel agency with a very helpful, english speaking female agent who looked
up the train information on her computer, and explained to us that the agent
in Milan did the best she could for us to all travel together, since private
sleepers only accomodate two persons. We were assigned a four-person couchette,
and the agent informed us that the chance of a fourth person joining us
was likely. She suggested tipping the conductor 20,000 ITL while requesting
that he not assign anyone else to our compartment. We gave him 50,000 ITL,
and it worked like a charm! Although it didn't have the amenities of a hotel
room, the couchette was actually comfortable, with a door that locked, the
ride was smooth, dinner in the dining car was excellent, and we all had
a good night's sleep, and woke up in Paris, ready for a bath! It was a memorable
experience, uniquely European, and I would most definitely do it again!
Beryl E. Mahl
New Orleans, La USA 08/11/01
I took the Artesia night train from Paris to Rome in May using a first class rail/drive pass, but I had to purchase a supplement. They charged $82.00 per person for a private double sleeper or $188 for a private single sleeper.
You can book it by calling Rail Europe at 1-800-848-7245. You can't book any earlier than 60 days in advance, and I tried to book a private compartment (since I was traveling alone) about 50 days in advance only to find that there were none left. There was no wash basin or toilet in the compartment and the common WC in coach was less than clean by the time we got to Rome.
We left Gare de Lyon about 7:30 pm and arrived in Rome's Termini a bit early by 9:00 am. The compartment had three seats and three fold-down beds, but they only used two of the beds. They did offer dining car service. They also brought juice, a pastry, and coffee/tea in the morning.
When first boarding, the conductor took my passport, railpass and supplement
voucher which worried me a bit, but he returned it to me first thing next
morning. We were not disturbed at night crossing the border for customs.
In fact, on arrival in Rome, no one checked our passports either. Hope
this is helpful.
Tom
Potomac Falls, VA USA 08/08/01
I travelled in Eastern Europe in mid-June and was pleasantly surprised
that from Prague to Krakow and later from Krakow to Budapest, I was the
only one in a three person compartment. The car itself held about 20% capacity.
I don't know if it was just luck or more likely, the time of year. I will
definitely travel at that time in the future. Anyone else find this happen
at other times?
Jim Bartok
Aurora, CO USA 08/04/01
The night train (second class, compartment for four) from St Petersburg
to Riga was very comfortable and worth the extra dollars. I also felt safe.
Lucky me, there was only one other passenger in the compartment!
vesna jovanovic
vancouver, wa USA 07/30/01
My husband and I took a night train (WARS) from Krakow, Poland to Prague.
(We had to connect trains in Dresden, Germany.) We reseved a first class
sleeper and had no problems. We didn't sleep as well as we would have in
a hotel and having the toliet down the hall was a little bit of a pain,
but all in all I highly recommend choosing to travel by night train.
Denise Mohr Strom
Palo Alto, ca USA 07/01/01
Well, I think I'd rather watch Europe go by in the daytime and sleep
in one of Rick's recommended hotels. Did OK from Munich to Vienna, I got
a first-class compartment all to myself and the seats fold out so I had
a bed until 5AM when people came onto the train going to work in Vienna
(they had a LONG commute) and the train filled in St Polten at 6AM with
an hour to go and everybody slept the hour to Vienna except me. So I tried
a first class sleeper, two berths in the room, Venice to Rome, $37 with
my railpass, I had the upper bunk, the railcar was a Fiat so the air conditioning
didn't work, I baked, tried to escape to a car with seats but we were locked
in the car (so that the thief in each car won't have competition?). Next
year I might try a CityNightline, or a Deutsche Bahn Nachtzug, they cost
a bit more than the Fiat but are probably worth it. Still, arriving in a
new city with no shower and bad hair and limited sleep takes most of the
excitement away from night trains.
Jonathan Lawson
San Diego, CA USA 06/28/01
I just returned from a tour of Europe with my 21-year-old daughter and we
slept overnight on the train in a 2-person couchette. It was not a pleasant
experience and was a very rough ride. We also ran into a large animal on
the tracks and our train was 1-1/2 hours late getting us from Switzerland
to Amsterdam. I would not do it again. I had "train lag" from this experience
worse than the jet lag getting to Europe.
Jennifer
Tallahassee, Fl USA 06/25/01
We just got back from 12 days in Europe. Our family of 5 took the night
train from Munich to Venice. I hardly slept at all. Since I am 6 feet tall,
I found the bunk to be small and confining. Also, the train made several
stops and even let a couple in our "room" at 3 o'clock in the morning. We
were not able to get the entire family in one room even though a friend
in Germany had booked the train for us much earlier. If I had the choice
to do it again, I wouldn't.
Joe Bufkin
Seabrook, TX USA 06/19/01
My husband and I just got back from 33 days in Europe. We decided to do Italy by train and took 1 nite train from Venice to Vienna. We had read this graffiti wall before we left and were paranoid about the "sleep-over." When we got to Venice and tried to buy our tickets for a sleeper car to Vienna, we learned that there was going to be a rail strike and the train in two days would be full with all sleeper cars sold out. We were petrified, but not having a choice, got a 6-person couchette. (We have never even slept with our 4 closest friends much less 4 strangers!)
We had taken two regular locks, a bicycle lock, and heavy wire to secure our belongings on the train. We were first on and my husband got on the top bunk and secured all of our belongings on the top. We were ready — for whatever.
The first person we saw in another couchette had taken off all of his clothes — about 50ish with a pot belly — and had on only black briefs. Someone had told him he was attractive and so he paraded up and down the car. Ugh! We just knew we would get a similar bunk-mate.
Soon two came in. He was a sculptor and instructor and she was one of his students. Although they looked pretty unconvential, to us, they were very friendly and helpful. At the second stop, two more people got on to sleep in the middle bunks. They immediately went to sleep and so did we.
During the nite I had to go to the restroom and had to climb down the ladder. When I returned, I noticed that the young couple were nearly nude together in one bunk! Cozy! I climbed up to the top bunk and got in backwards. There is no room to turn around so I had to get back on the ladder to turn around so my head could be on the pillow — I was laughing so hard to myself I thought I might fall off the top bunk. There is no turnaround room up there. By the way, we slept with our clothes ON.
Sometime during the nite, the two middle bunk people got off but we were asleep and didn't hear them leave. The train was very quiet and the rains were so smooth that you hardly ever felt the train sway.
I woke up in the a.m. and looked outside to see that the train was in the station. I woke up my husband and the "couple" and went to the restroom where I discovered that the four of us were the only ones on the train. It was being cleaned and the linens had been removed — all except for our couchette. It was 7:45a.m. and the train had come into the station at 6:30a.m. We immediately got our clothes on and exited the train. They were taking the engine off as we walked by.
The leason is — they do not wake you up! I don't know what would have happened had we not woken up on our own!
Our overall impressions: the train was quiet; our roommates were unconvential
but very nice to us; no one tried to rob us; and yes, we would do it again.
Part of that bonding experience we all talk about!
Adelle
Sherman, TX USA 06/09/01
If you are planning on traveling in couchettes/sleepers, bring a lock
with you that can lock the doors of the cabin.
Val
Berkeley, CA USA 06/07/01
Remember that there are two types of sleeping accommodation on trains in Europe: Couchettes and sleeping-cars.
Couchettes are the rail equivalent of a youth hostel, just fold-out bunks with rug [blanket], pillow and sheet supplied. Washrooms are at the end of the corridor.
Sleepers are the equivalent of a hotel, with beds, carpet, washbasin, room service, generally convertible to a comfortable sitting room for daytime part of the journey.
Don't confuse '1st and 2nd class' with 'couchette' and 'sleeper'. You do not need a first-class ticket to travel in a sleeper — there are second-class sleepers, which are exactly the same as first-class, but with two or three 2nd-class passengers per room rather than one or two in 1st class. A berth in a 3-bed room typically costs $40-55.
Couchettes, at about $20 per berth, are generally available only in 2nd class (basically, only France has first-class couchettes) so don't buy a first-class pass then discover that you either have to pay a sky-high first-class sleeper supplement, or travel in a second-class couchette even though yopu've forked out for a first-class pass. If you're going to make a lot of overnight journeys on your railpass, you're better off buying a second-class pass and using your spare cash to pay for a sleeper instead of a couchette.
In Italy, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark, you can now choose to pay a slightly higher couchette supplement to travel just 4 people to a compartment, not 6. And in these countries, on certain trains women can now book a couchette in a ladies-only compartment.
Lastly, don't be tempted to sit up all night in a seat. For both security
and comfort, you're far better off in a couchette or sleeper.
The Man in Seat Sixty-One
Haddenham, UK 06/06/01
Night trains do their job, but they are not for everyone. Last trip to Europe my sister and I took the night train from Copenhagen, Denmark to Stockholm, Sweden. We were excited about the prospect of saving the cost of a night in a hotel and the time wasted traveling. However when we pulled into Stockholm at 7am without a wink of sleep we learned that everything has a price.
The problems we had were the following. Trains move from side to side while traveling resulting in a very shaky and squeaky trip. And "squeaky" doesn't do justice to the sound of train wheels scraping along when you are trying to catch some sleep at 4am. Also, the swaying motion of the train can give you a bit of a seasick feeling when you shut your eyes. Next, the sound of railroad crossing bells are surprisingly close to the sound of an alarm clock going off. You hear this sound as your train passes through any major city. Beyond this conductors do come by to inspect compartments and those you share your compartment with tend to move around as well. Lights going on and off, and people going in and out is a bit distracting. The worst part in my opinion is when my sleep-deprived sister took her pain out on my frazzled nerves the entire next day.
On the return trip we chugged a nice shot of schnapps prior to boarding the train, and purchased earplugs. The results were much better, but we still were a bit strung-out the following day. In retrospect we were glad to have saved a few hours of time considering we were on a brief trip, however we feel Stockholm was like a hazy dream due to the sleep deprivation.
I am glad we had the experience — frankly it's too much fun to laugh
about a year later. However from now on we will use night trains sparingly
and come better prepared. Remember earplugs, sleeping pills, clear eyes,
and the art of self restraint, and you too can ride the night train the
next time you are in Europe.
Brian
Seattle, WA USA 06/06/01
On a trip in May I slept three nights on trains. The first was from Bern to Rome. Although I'd asked for a 2-berth 1st-class sleeper car, they had none left so we agreed to accept a 4-berth couchette. The other 2 berths remained unsold so my companion and I had the entire car to ourselves. But it was indeed cramped. With only two modest bags between us we still had to work together to pull things out of our bags. If anybody else was in that car, let alone two or more people, it would have been very inconvenient and awkward.
It wasn't difficult getting used to the noises of the train, or the occasional voices or movements of people. If you are sincerely a light sleeper then this is not for you. Good silicone earplugs cancelled about half the noise, making it much more acceptable.
We were able to get a 1st-class 2-berth sleeper on the Venice-Vienna and Munich-Amsterdam trains. The amount of room was about the same. Beyond the couchette "amenities," with a 1st-class sleeper car you get a sink with mirror in the room (or we were offered a car with a shower for a higher price), shaver/plug outlet and on one, a cute little plastic container that when filled and reinserted into a special compartment then closed, dumped its contents onto the tracks. Let's just say that I, the guy, didn't have to leave my room the entire night. You were also treated better, received a nicer meal in the morning and asked what time you should be awoken, etc.
Next time, I would probably opt exclusively for a (no more than) 4-person
couchette just for the experience of meeting others (you'll be sleeping
within 30 minutes of boarding anyway). The actual room size and night's
sleep were the same (as 1st class) and you save a bundle of money (it's
about $70 1st class and $25 for couchette). However, in each case the
most important thing is that in the morning, while you won't receive a
"hotel sleep," you are refreshed and rejuvenated enough to enjoy the day,
and you have covered a huge amount of territory negating an 8-hour deficit
in wasted touring time because your hotel moved WITH you — traveling
at its most efficient. It was a totally interesting experience and I would
do it again in a heartbeat.
Michael Bresso
San Leandro, CA USA 06/03/01
Couchettes are a great way to make a long overnight train ride pass quickly.
They sure beat trying to sleep upright in an uncomfortable seat, but be
aware, try to get a top bunk, and keep your pack close by. I always slept
with my pack at my head or between me and the wall. Theft is not uncommon,
especally in sleeper cars!
geoff
Toronto, Ontario Canada 05/28/01
Some older trains have 6-seat compartments with seats which you can pull out, so that the two opposing seats make something like a bed. And if there are not many people on the train and you get such a compartment all to yourself, you can pull out all 6 seats, sleep pretty comfortably and and hide your bags under them — a great measure against theft!
Sleep near anything you want to protect. I once woke up in Italy to
discover my leather jacket gone. Luckily the pockets were empty and the
weather was great in Rome!
Liam Mc Carney
USA 04/26/01
My wife and I took a 24-day trip in Europe last October. We made reservations here in the USA for all of our train trips, including two first-class sleepers. We certainly recommend making the sleeper reservations in advance, but we would not reserve the day trips in advance again. If you miss the train, you lose your reservation fee, and we did that on purpose (because we altered our plans) twice.
The sleeper from Paris to Vienna was very pleasant. We brought aboard water, wine, and French sandwiches and enjoyed a romantic evening watching the countryside roll by.
Our sleeper from Nice to Rome was not as pleasant, but still we had fun. The train was covered from stem to stern with graffiti. The conductor advised us twice to lock our door at night. Good advice, as someone tried our door twice. Actually, on the Paris to Vienna sleeper too.
We would recommend first-class sleepers to anyone wanting a little adventure
and a way to cover some serious ground in a hurry.
Garey Keathley
St. Louis, MO USA 04/24/01
My 15-year-old son and I took several overnite trains during our three weeks in Europe: Paris to Rome, Venice to Munich, Munich to Berlin, Berlin to Frankfurt and Frankfurt to Paris. On all these trips we had made first-class sleeper compartment reservations before leaving the U.S.A. On almost all legs of the trip the accommodations were superb and all the trains had key locks on the doors.
The only exception was the train from Venice to Munich. When we arrived at Santa Lucia station I read in my limited Italian the word "dispiacce," which I knew meant "we're sorry." We went to the ticket counter and were told that the train containing the first-class sleepers had not arrived and we would be required to travel second class. I figured, how tough could it be?
When we boarded the train we didn't notice any major difference and the conductor told us he would make up the bunks while we were having dinner in the dining car. When we came back to the compartment we realized that the height of the room was about 2 to 3 feet lower than the first-class room, the bunks were closer together and we could not sit upright on them. Also, the compartment was probably 3 feet narrower than our other rooms had been. This required us to literally crawl into the bunks from out in the hall. We are both rather large individuals and we thought this was very funny. I took pictures of my son attempting to sit upright on the upper bunk while bent like an S. We still talk about that night.
We had no bad experiences sleeping or being robbed or dealing with noise.
We are going to go again this year and I am planning now on the internet
to book our trip using overnite trains.
Marty
Pittsburgh, PA USA 04/22/01
I've taken 9 different night trains in Europe, and have varying opinions about them.
I find the Amsterdam-Berlin and Interlaken-Rome trains most useful, and both are doable in couchettes.
I have to agree that it's hard to have a super day after a night in
a couchette; I'm just not as enthusiastic when I'm in a fog. But it saves
time, and on my last trip allowed me to see Rome when I had not originally
planned to. I took a night train Interlaken-Rome, spent one night in Rome,
then took a night train to Paris and flew home that afternoon. Slept very
well on the plane!
Paul
Greenville, SC USA 04/08/01
Traveling on overnight trains is great! On one Eurail trip, I had a
hard time finding a place to sleep in four or five different cities, so
instead of worring, I just caught the last train out of town. What a way
to travel! A new city every morning. Most stations have a place to take
a shower (and if it's not in Italy, it will likely be clean!).
Dave
Matthews, NC USA 03/18/01
Last year while in Europe I took two overnight trains. I agree that if you
can afford 1st class, go for it. Next time I go I would like to try a cheaper
Sleeperette (reclining seat like 1st class on an airplane).
AllStar
Detroit, USA 03/14/01
If you are riding en couchette in France, always try to get the top
right bunk, for there you alone will control the comfort of the entire compartment
as the heat/AC controls are up there.
J.G. Miller
Kensington, MD USA 03/13/01
Travelling on overnight trains originating in Italy can be interesting. My wife and I took a midnight train from Venice to Vienna, and I'm glad I was asleep.
Our first problem was getting the tickets. We had Eurail passes, but the sleeping car was an extra charge. At the time the Italian train system did not accept Visa or MasterCard (and may still not), but we'd spent all our cash on gelati to get rid of the extra before leaving the country.
Once we finally got our tickets and boarded the train, we had to get the conductor to remove people from our beds. Unfortunately the people removed were travelling with the people who remained — that didn't make for a very pleasant trip.
Additionally the train was very, very old, had a very distinct odor
(or maybe it was our car-mates), and was very drafty (not a problem in
Venice, but most of the route was blanketed with snow). The trip was definitely
worth the price, but anyone taking the trip should be prepared — it's not
like any other train system in Western Europe.
bcd
oxford, ms USA 03/03/01
My daughter and I spent several nights in 6-bunk couchette compartments. I am 5'6", a very large woman, and 50 years old. My daughter is 12. The only thing I found disagreeable was the fact (noted by others here) that the top bunk is very hot. (We were traveling in early October.) Rick had advised that the top bunk had more storage so I went for it. After one sweltering night I switched to a lower level (now I prefer bottom bunk).
It's not a night at the Ritz, or even at the Motel 6, but our couchette travel remains the source of many memories. We laugh about the fellow who tapped me on the shoulder in the middle of the night. He pointed to a guidebook that had the word "medicine" in four languages — but not English. I eventually realized he was asking if I had aspirin. He had been coughing so I offered him an American over-the-counter cough medicine that included a pain reliever. He consumed it without question. He was so quiet for the rest of the night that I worried about his having an allergic reaction. (We saw him at breakfast and luckily he looked quite fit. Another triumph of Dr. Mom.)
Another couchette found us bunked with male Swiss college students. They spritzed cologne on their bunks (and themselves) prior to turning in. My daughter was nearly having convulsions from stifling her laughter. In the morning, as we arrived in Zurich, one of the fellows said, "Welcome to Switzerland," and presented us with chocolate bars.
In another couchette we bunked with a grandmotherly woman (and three nondescript people) who explained that the bottles of water in the compartment were "one for each of us" (thinking maybe Americans would be greedy?) and then kindly coached my daughter on how to speak "Austrian German."
Did I sleep like a baby on these nights in my couchette bunk? No. I expected to sleep in fits, and I did. I kept my headphones on for most of the night, listening to quiet music. Or I used earplugs (I highly recommend taking a package of earplugs with you everywhere). A flashlight was great for finding things in the couchette without having to switch on the light, which annoys bunkmates.
All of the people we shared compartments with settled down for sleep almost as soon as the train left the station. We did hear a noisy group one night, but the conductor shut them up within an hour. I head this from someone else, as I had inserted my earplugs and was oblivious to their noise.
The experiences of having fitful nights' sleep in couchette cars is
part of the tapestry of our travels. We did not experience anything even
remotely unsafe. We savor the discomforts of travel along with the comforts.
The early-morning view of a new destination is priceless and is sweet
after a restless night. That first cup of coffee tastes even better when
you have been thinking about it half the night. The people we met were
ordinary people living their ordinary lives with ordinary us. In my opinion
every couchette compartment is a Back Door.
Lauren
Boston, MA USA 02/28/01
I took the overnight train from Prague to Frankfurt (Aug. 2000) but wouldn't do it again. At least I wouldn't pay for a first-class compartment. Very aggressive border guards woke us three times by pounding on the compartment door and yelling for our passports. Plus, we had duty-free paperwork from shopping in Prague that needed their stamp, and they were none too pleased about having to deal with it.
The entire Frankfurt airport has only one women's shower cubicle and
one men's cubicle, so surly travelers from overnight flights and those
of us right off the overnight train (only slightly less cranky) had to
line up, which blocked the already crowded bathrooms. It got pretty ugly.
Overall, I just wouldn't recommend an overnight train from Prague.
Kay Sodowsky
Blue Springs, MO USA 02/21/01
I had no problems with sleeping on trains. I spent a month in Europe from mid-May to mid-June 2000 and was short on time because I had an InterRail pass (only good for one month & only option if you live in UK or Europe). Overnight trains were a godsend.
The only problems I encountered were the result of French train strikes (gotta love 'em) which occurred the one week I was going from Barcelona-Nice-Venice. These were only admin. problems and didn't effect the actual journey.
I am a petite young woman who traveled on my own, kept my wits about me, my moneybelt on, water/breakfast handy, and backpack & daypack locked behind my head (usually by the window), and never encountered any problems on the train. Usually my pass and passport were checked/kept for border crossings by the staff, and they usually checked on me before bed and in the morning. As someone else already mentioned, the only train on which I was awoken for border checks was Munich-Prague (3-4 times). The same thing happened on the day train from Prague-Berlin so I didn't feel like it was out of place after that.
I think you just need to evaluate yourself before your trip and decide
if you're right for sleeping on trains and plan accordingly. There are
the issues like motion sickness, people who are quite tall, heat, and
whether you're a light sleeper to think of before heading out.
Kristen
Toronto, ON Canada 02/07/01
The night train from Amsterdam to Berlin was a party...lots of fun people to meet.
Do NOT take the night train from Nice to Barcelona — "the bandit express."
Many people had money and items stolen by a roving band of thieves, and
NO attendants were evident. Worse than anything in Italy (which I was
warned about!).
Joanna P
long beach, CA USA 01/26/01
I didn't find that sleeping on the train was worth the trouble. Couchettes
are miserable and it's hard to have a super day after you've slept on the
train. I think it is only worth it if you can splurge enough to have a larger
bunk and if you are covering a tremendous number of miles. The most miserable
people I have EVER seen were a couple I met on my trip who were sleeping
on trains night after night. It is not the same quality of sleep you get
in a room. And when you're paying so much money for a vacation, I don't
think saving $25 is worth it.
USA 01/18/01
I had read in several travel books that a couchette really saves time
and money. It did not for me. I felt like I was in a coffin and would never,
ever sleep in one again. They are not nearly as roomy as they appear in
the guidebook pictures. I think the height between bunks is about 24 inches
and they are about six feet long and about 30 inches wide. Like I said,
a coffin.
USA 01/18/01
Sleeping on the train is definitely worth the (potential) trouble, if only for the sake of fun memories.
My husband and I traveled through western Europe for 2 months last summer and had many fun train experiences. During one long trip, from Barcelona to Cinque Terre region, we stopped in the middle of the night somewhere in southern France to change trains.
Our tickets said that we had a reservation on sleeper car #108. Well, unfortunately, car #108 did not exist! We were not alone, as many other travelers had been assigned to #108 also. Anyway...we all ended up "sleeping" in a car which did not have sleeping accommodations, i.e. beds, and the car also lacked electricity. It was very dark and scary and it appeared as if the train was a WWII leftover.
Although we were extremely fatigued, we arrived safe and sound in Vernazza.
The experience has been named "ghost train #108" by my husband and I and
we refer back to it frequently (with humor) when discussing our Europe
travel.
Rachel and Andrew Getchell
Newmarket, NH USA 01/09/01
Check your reservations over and over and over before leaving the window. Disregard the sometimes rude and incourteous folk behind the counter who just want you to leave and in fact call the next person up while you are still standing there. Insist, push, scream that you want to check the ticket.
Twice my sleeper tickets were issued for the right date, wrong month!
The first I caught. For the second, I had our host write out the reservation
in the native Spanish. October is pretty easy to see in almost any Latin-based
language, right? The man had October on the top, yet November in the important
spot. I missed it and almost missed our night train to Lisbon!
Tracy
San Leandro, CA USA 12/15/00
Note to self: make sure that your Eurail pass is good for the destination country, and that if it isn't, you have enough money to pay for the difference — BEFORE YOU GO TO SLEEP ON THE TRAIN!
A friend and I went to Spain for the San Fermin festival last July,
and thought we would go to Portugal, since it was there. Eurail pass wasn't
good for Portugal, and when one of the ticket checkers woke us up at 4
am and we showed our tickets, he told us to get off the train. We were
in the middle of nowhere. Luckily I had just enough money to pay for the
difference. After that, I had only about 100 pesetas left over, which
ain't much.
Zach
Tx USA 12/05/00
Another woman and I took the eight-hour night train from Prague to Munich a couple of weeks ago. No problems. We rode first class instead of getting a couchette. We did get a reservation a few minutes before we boarded and had to kick people out of our seats. We ended up stretching out across three seats apiece and had no one else in our compartment for the whole trip. We are both under 5'4 so it worked perfectly.
The only bother is that the border people come in and want to see everything three or four times and the trains get unhooked and rehooked in Nuremburg, which is noisy.
We both slept on our small backpacks with our money and valuables as pillows and hooked our regular back packs with clothes in them on the rack over us.
We got into Munich at 6AM and visited the Mr. Clean in the station and were as good as new. Mr. Clean offers clean bathrooms and a place to brush teeth and fix up for a few marks. It was spotless.
As women travelers in our 30's, we had no problems or hassles at the
main Prague station at night or anywhere on the trip. The Munich station
is user friendly and has Mr. Clean, a friendly Reservation bureau, places
to get train picnics, and a decent restaurant for breakfast. It helps
to learn a little basic German.
Ellen
Springfield, MO USA 10/31/00
Re: a sleeper from Granada to Barcelona. Everything from RENFE told us there were nothing but couchettes on this train. However, when we got to Barcelona we went to a travel agent in the El Corte Ingles department store and found we could get a two-person "cabin" on this train. (The problem, according to RENFE, is that they are not yet set up to handle overnight reservations on the internet. Rail Europe lists only the high-traffic, high-cost routes and does not list this route at all).
We rode it from Valencia to Seville (same train) at a cost of only about $55 more than two tourist coach seats — the compartment on the train was brand new, air-conditioned, had very comfortable beds and even had a very small shower stall. It came with all sorts of goodies (bottles of mineral water, toothbrushes, combs, etc.).
We highly recommend the train...the only down side is that it forced
us to find something to do between checking out of our hotel in Valencia
at noon and the 10:45 pm departure of the train and we had run out of
things to do there — would have been better off taking the day train.
Alan & Alice Stewart
Bath, ME USA 10/14/00
My camera bag was stolen during an overnight trip between Vienna and
Florence. It was taken from the shelf area above the door while everyone
was sleeping. A lesson learned is that any small bag that is easy to grab
should be placed on the far window side of the compartment near your body.
Jasper
USA 10/11/00
We found out the hard way from Munich to Venice there are no sleepers,
just sixplets (means 3 seats each facing each other). Luckily we had the
9 hr 45 minute trip mostly to ourselves. We did have another passenger for
2 hours but we could stretch out across all 3 seats. But no lock on the
door either!
Hasschen
USA 10/10/00
My first experience with trains was from Kaiserslautern, Germany to
Amsterdam. The travel agent did get tickets but they did not guarantee me
a seat. She said I should have no problem. Ha! It was a weekend and young
people were on holiday. There were few seats and I spent about 5 hours sitting
on the floor or the large suitcase or standing when there was standing room
only. Getting down aisles to check on seating was impossible because teens
with backpacks were asleep in the aisles and my large suitcase was too heavy
to lift over them. The travel agent should have warned me what to expect.
Next time I will ask more questions and take a backpack instead of suitcase.
Shirley
Panama City, , Fl USA 10/08/00
We just got back from Europe and during our travels, took 3 night trains for which we rented couchettes — from Paris to Barcelona (good), from Barcelona to Geneva (not so good), and from Zurich to Vienna (horrible). Here is what we learned:
1. Top bunks are much hotter than bottom bunks, and many trains do not have A/C working. Additionally, those on the top bunks experience a lot more side-to-side movement while the train is in motion. For some folks, the combination of heat and extra movement is trouble.
2. Although I'm used to "roughing it," I guess that we all have our
limits. Unless you are one of those folks who can sleep through an air
raid, you will probably not get your best nights' sleep in a couchette.
We found that a lot of the time "saved" by taking night trains/couchettes
was actually "reconsumed" the next day when we arrived at our destination
and wanted only to find our hotel, take showers, and take a serious nap.
Therefore, after our third couchette, we took day trains instead, using
the time to relax and rest our poor tired feet for a day.
3. Although theoretically, there are 1st and 2nd class couchettes available,
we found that in many cases, the trains we were taking did not even HAVE
1st-class couchette cars. It was 2nd class or nothing. Be aware of this
ahead of time and steel yourself for the experience of two more people,
smaller beds that you cannot sit upright on, and less privacy/security.
Beda Warrick
Atlanta, GA USA 09/29/00
My son and I took the night train from Amsterdam to Berlin in May. We got a couchette that we shared with two nice American men. It was relatively comfortable, considering the price. But I wasn't prepared for how hot and stuffy the top bunk would be. It was also a difficult climb for my 40-something body.
The next overnight we took from Berlin to Munich was totally different. Although it was also called a couchette, this had seats that turned into bunks on either side of the aisle only closed off by a curtain. This train appeared modern and clean and was very comfortable. Unfortunately the people in the seats behind us did not fold down their beds and stayed up talking all night. Very rude!
Night trains will save you time and money, but two overnights on our
three-week trip were plenty for us. We decided on the day train from Munich
to Paris.
Laura
Tucson, AZ USA 09/25/00
We found backpacking through Europe to be hard work, enjoyable, but exhausting. We've roughed it plenty and don't require a lot of luxury, but we did not enjoy night train couchette sleeping.
Positives: It saved time and a little money.
Negatives: (1) We reserved our couchettes as soon as we arrived in Europe and did not get one direct ride. Every trip, we had to leave one city at around ten and ride two hours to another city to catch a couchette train. By then it was after midnight and everyone in our car was asleep and we had the worst beds and no linens, because they had been taken.
(2) We found that the time and money saved wasn't worth how we felt
when we got to the city in the morning. We were so tired and felt so disgusting
(it was HOT going through Italy in August) that we wanted to go straight
to our hotel and shower and nap before we tried to walk the city and see
sights. Luckily, two out of three Rick-picked hotels that we arrived at
could accomodate us with showers that weren't in our room (Pensione Centrale
in Florence and Hotel Ovidius in Venice were great) when we arrived. We
didn't think it was worth the trouble.
S. Smith
Kansas City, KS USA 09/23/00
If you have to sleep in a train car that has the seats that turn into sleepers, they usually have doors that pull together. Night trains are notorious for theft while you are sleeping and we had someone try to open our doors in the middle of the night. So my dad got a strap from one of our bags and tied it around the handles of the door several times to secure it closed. Someone tried three more times that night to get into our cabin, but we felt much safer knowing they couldn't.
Another thing we learned the hard way: if you have a long night train
(6 hours or more), it is well worth the money to get your own 1st-class
sleeper. We took a train from Rome to Vienna and it was well worth the
money just to have our privacy and a sink!
Paul & Kerrie Nelson
Grapevine, TX USA 09/01/00
I took the overnight train from Paris to Frankfurt in June. I had a
top bunk in a 6-bed couchette and it was really hot. The worst part was
that the beds are covered with vinyl, which makes it really hot, sticky
and miserable. The vinyl was so slippery I couldn't get the sheet or the
blanket to stay in place on it. It was a long sleepless night but the good
part was that I got off the train in Frankfurt and stepped right on to a
Romantic Road tour bus, thanks to Rick's suggestions. I was able to nap
between towns and had a relaxing and enjoyable day.
First-time Europe
USA 08/26/00
Get to the station as early as possible before your train departs so you don't have to fight against a tide of people on the platform and in the train corridor with your rucksack. Most big stations (where you'd probably be getting a night train from anyway) have a poster displayed near the timetable showing the carriage makeup of each train. Look at your ticket or couchette reservation to see your train and carriage numbers, then look at the poster to see how many carriages yours is from the platform. That way you can go straight to your carriage and avoid slogging through the whole train.
Secondly, stock up on water and snacks — you never know what might/might not be available on your train; and a 10+ hr journey in summer with no water is a misery. If travelling with friends I opt for the cheap and cheerful 2nd-class, 6-bunk couchette and make sure to have reserved spaces. Reserve the bottom bunks as they are easy to get into with packs/luggage and have good storage space underneath — use bungee cords to secure luggage to the underside of the bunk/wall for extra security. User your daypack as a pillow under the one provided and make sure the zips are locked — NEVER leave it on your bunk if you go to the bathroom. Your most important valuables, of course, should be in a moneybelt under your clothes.
Sleep in the couchette the wrong way round if you can bear it (the train motion may make you feel sick this way), with your head at the window rather than the door end of the bunk. Then the potential thief has to come further into the compartment to get at you.
Finally, lock the compartment door (if it has an inside lock) once everyone has settled down. And don't expect 'The Ritz' in 2nd class — it is small and can be hot. A good night's sleep may not be easy if you are a light/apprehensive sleeper or tall! Wear loose, comfortable, layered clothes you can sleep in. You will not have the room/privacy to change. Remember to put a freshen-up kit in your daypack like toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, change of underwear and facial cleanser. This way you never need to open your main luggage, which exposes all your wordly goods to would-be thieves, and besides creates havoc in a small space.
The conductor will ask for your ticket/pass and passport and keep these till morning. DON'T be scared by this; it's procedure on most European night trains. The important thing to remember is do not change compartments after you have surrendered your passport and tickets. The conductor will not be able to find you in the morning.
If you are a women travellng alone (as I do frequently), I recommend upgrading to Women Only T3/T2 in second class (or if you have cash to burn, a single bunk compartment). It's not available on all trains. You get the comfort of sharing with fellow women AND, with only 1 or 2 other companions, all that extra space! You have a private washbasin (sometimes towels and soap too) and the offer of a morning coffee if you are really lucky! In August 2000, an upgrade to T3 from a standard 6-bunk, 2nd-class couchette was 25 GBP (total 94 GBP) on a journey from Padova to Paris (a standard 6-bunk couchette is 69 GBP).
Remember truely violent robbery is rare in Europe but opportunist thieves
abound. Be a smart traveller and you'll be safe.
Annalisa
London, UK 08/23/00
Many trains offer only 2nd class couchette arrangements, as we found out on the Paris to Pisa night train. We had 1st class rail passes, but the train was all 2nd class. This was one of the scariest experiences on our entire trip. Our cabin mates were nice enough and reasonably friendly. However, when the conductor came to check our railpasses, he took our railpasses and our passports. We were completely freaked out, convinced we were getting ripped off, but he was official. He said we'd get them back the next morning on arrival in Pisa. The train was 2 hours late arriving in Pisa, so we had a very anxious morning not knowing where we were or where our passports & railpasses were. It turned out okay... half an hour before arrival, the conductor arrived w/ our railpasses & passports as promised.
The next night train from Salerno to Venice was cancelled (no explanation on why) and so we had to take a night train from Naples to Venice. We spent the night in a first class compartment where the seats pulled out a little bit to recline. We woke up about every 45 minutes as the train would stop in another town.
We didn't have any real problems on any trains though. But we took precautions
like wearing our money belts and locking down our bags with a cable lock,
especially on night trains.
Kim
Irving, TX USA 08/14/00
I booked the overnight train from Paris to Zurich, never having taken
one before, and naively thinking that I could actually sleep in a second
class couchette. It was one of those six bunk per compartment arrangements.
I discovered there's about 18 inches of clearance between your head and
the top of the bunk above. Additionally, I had to sleep in a virtual S shape,
due to the shortness of the bunk. Add into all this the fact that it was
a warm night, and I had to change trains in Basel at 5 AM. I think I got
three hours of fitful sleep. Chalk it up to a lesson learned.
Greg
Houston, TX USA 08/09/00
Took a train from Rome Termini to Nice, overnight. Were complete idiots for not going first class. We shared a couchette with some reasonably nice French people, but the second class 6-bed couchettes are awful! First, we didnt get off to a good start because our train left termini at 11:45 pm! Not fun to be in termini at that time. (I got a bit paranoid, so nobody stole anything) there were no showers, just 6 fold down beds.
We reserved a non-smoking compartment. The lady from Louisiana next
compartment over was a light smoker, about 4 cigarettes a day, so she
reserved a smoking cabin. The people next to her smoked one after another
after another and went thru 3 1/2 packs on the train to Nice. She couldnt
escape to the outside of the compartment either. There were chain smokers
there too! (Note: The car we were in was non smoking.)
Steve Lee
Portland, OR USA 07/30/00
Our first night train also happened to be the first time either of us had been on a train. We traveled from Paris to Genoa, Italy. We followed Rick's advice and reserved a couchette, not really knowing what that was. When we boarded the train and found our bunks, we were stunned. The compartment was very small and contained six bunks, four large men, and us. In the lower level bunks there is not enough room to sit up, which makes a ten hour train ride very uncomfortable. We asked the conductor about moving to first class but it was all full. That was the longest night of my life.
I think women traveling alone should be wary of what situation they
might be getting into by sleeping in a couchette. Because there is no
privacy in a second class couchette sleeper compartment, women may feel
unsafe and uncomfortable. On our second overnight trip (Frankfurt to Paris),
we splurged on a first class sleeper. What we learned — not everyone will
be comfortable in a couchette; and you won't be sleeping much if you don't
feel safe and secure.
Kate Torrey
Geneseo, NY USA 07/28/00
Here is a summary of the overnight trains in Spain and Italy:
Fist we took an overnight train (ES) from Naples to Venice. In all cases,
I would strongly recommend spending the money to reserve a first class sleeping
car. It was extremely comfortable. Never had to worry about sleeping with
people we don't know, protecting our bags etc.
Second we took a special Talgo train from Milan to Barcelona. This is expensive (~ $300) and only travels several days a week . Definetely worth it if you don't mind spending the extra money for the convenience of a "train hotel" and not having to change trains at 5am (as is necessary with the Genova/Barcelona overnight train).
In sum, we loved traveling by night train. Had enough light (in July)
to see the countryside and, in general, it was more cost effective then
taking a plane. Plus, we didn't have to check bags and travel to/from
airports. In every case, our trains were extremely comfortable, private
and clean. Couple of things to be aware of: The Spanish trains leave at
the ticket time and didn't let people on between 2 and 5 minutes prior
to departure. 8:00pm departure meant the train was 1/2 out the station
at 8:00. Check if there is a dining car. On the 6pm Venice train there
was no dinner, only a snack cart with pre-packaged sandwiches. The Spanish
(Talgo) trains had dining cars. The "train hotel" from Barcelona (8pm)
offered wonderful dinners but were costly. Breakfast was free. If you
have any problems with equilibrium, you may be dioriented for the first
day you are on stable land. My husband expienced "moving building syndrome".
He never gets motion sick but can't read in a car.
Cindi
San Diego, CA USA 07/28/00
I have trouble getting restful night's sleep on a crowded, stuffy and
noisy couchette. I've taken numerous night trains and have always found
the sleeping experience to be a series of cat naps. Upon leaving the train
station in the arrival city, I'm usually feeling drowsy, my eyelids are
heavy, and my body is swaying side-to-side. I don't take sleeping pills
at home and I refuse to take them while traveling. Sure, you can save a
lot of time and cover vast distances on these night trains, but I wouldn't
string a series of these adventures back-to-back. On a typical two or three
week rail trip, I'd either schedule no more than one night train, or even
better, fly into one city and out of another.
A. Aubert
Lafayette, LA USA 07/23/00
Please be aware that the night train from Naples to Venice (touted
in Rick's 22 days in Italy book) has only sleepers (which cost double the
ammount of couchettes). Also, do whatever you can to get the bottom bunk!
I did not, and it was the hottest, longest night of my life! The train also
stops on the mainland (Mestre) before splitting, so you have to run up to
the passenger cars, or wait for a commuter train to S.L. which come every
30 min. or so.
Anne
New York, NY USA 06/28/00
On the internet train schedule, second class seated accomodation only means
that there are only second class seats, no couchettes for first or second
class.
Shawn Hawkins
Vancouver , BC CAN 06/28/00
We took an overnight train from Granada to Madrid. We got a sleeping
compartment for two people. It was a good experience. The mattress was good
and it was quite comfortable sleeping.
M
Boston, MA USA 06/14/00
I wanted to ensure that my best friend and I had the nicest possible overnight
train ride from Madrid to Barcelona on May 25. Therefore, I spent $139 per
ticket via Rail Europe and ordered a two-person first-class couchette on
the hotel train (a speedy Talgo) that departs Madrid at 11 pm and arrives
in Barcelona at 8 am. It was money well spent indeed: the compartment door
opened with a key-card (no flimsy, easily-picked locks there!); we slept
on comfortable mattresses with clean sheets and blankets; the couchette
was air-conditioned; and the medicine cabinet contained hand towels, soap,
mineral water and cup, toothbrush and toothpaste. The bathrooms in our car
were spotless. We felt wonderfully spoiled. To celebrate, Chris purchased
a small bottle of wine and we toasted our departure and our wisdom in spending
a little more to get a LOT more (the lower bunk could be folded back so
that we could sit in two cozy chairs and rest our drinks on a table in between).
We had a sound sleep, as the Talgos provide one of the smoothest rides of
any Spanish train. I prefer traveling in inexpensive second class compartments
during daytime travel, but for overnight, I'm sold on first class.
Tom
Los Angeles, CA USA 05/30/00
My wife and I took two night trains during our journey. The first was a 2nd class sleeper (six beds per berth) from Florence to Munich. The train was crowded (early May '00) and we boarded at midnight. We got lucky in that the folks in our couchette were already asleep when we climbed aboard. The three sleeping folks had left the top two bunks empty. The flashlight came in handy in the pitch darkness and the bike coil lock secured our backpacks. At about 3 am the door slide open, someone took a quick look around inside our couchette, and then moved on. I got up and went to the bathroom, lifted the lid to the toilet, and discovered a womans purse stuffed in the pot! I didn't dig, but noticed that the wallet was open and the credit cards were still intact. Be careful on these 2nd class sleepers! This sleeper cost us about $20 each extra. It was fairly clean & comfortable (I'm 6'3" and just fit, lengthwise) but purse in the toilet was a bit of a shocker. The conductor was no where to be found.
The 1st class sleeper from Munich to Paris was great! We boarded at
9pm onto a carpeted, red-wood paneled sleeper car with white sheets, blakets
& pillows and a big picture window. The little room had a sink & mirror,
hangers and reading lights. It was small, but very cozy & romantic. The
bow-tied waiter was very helpful. He took our coffee & tea order for breakfast
and noted a wake- up call time. The bathroom was clean and they even had
a nice shower in next to the toilet. I took a wobbly shower, LOCKED my
couchette door from the inside, and we had a very peaceful sleep that
night. These first class beds cost $63 each extra (about the cost of a
hotel room) but for the privacy and security and for the experience, it
was worth it!
Craig
Albuquerque, NM USA 05/30/00
The night train from Brussels to Brig, Switzerland was quite good.
It's run by the Swiss railroad with couchettes and a "T2" sleeping car.
The latter is a double bunk costing roughly $30 per bed — a great deal
for a sleeper. The train splits, with cars going to Brig, Zurich and Geneva.
Reserve early — these beds sell out quickly and there are only sleepers/couchettes.
(i.e. no "free seats") EURAIDE in Munich was quite helpful getting my reservations.
Mark Adair
Belmont, MA USA 05/29/00
For what it's worth, the Salerno Deposito Bagagli (left luggage) closes
at 9PM.
Mark Adair
Belmont, MA USA 05/17/00
My wife and I recently took the night train from Rome to Paris. We
reserved a sleeper car on the ?EC? train (the dedicated night train). The
additional supplement was US $100 with our rail pass. The train was fine.
We got a sleeper compartment which had 3 fold down beds with clean sheets
and blankets. (We squeezed into one). The compartment had a sink and the
door locked. The little medicine cabinet had bottled water and some toiletries.
The conductor was French, held our railpass overnight, and was very helpful.
The only downside was my wife got a little seasick. (She always get car/seasick).
I wasn't used to the noise and rocking motion. All in all though, it was
a good ride. Rome's train station, now that's a another story.
Louis Nguyen
Dallas, TX USA 05/17/00
Just took the night train from Munich to Naples. I reserved a bed in
a 3 bed sleeper car for DM 77. The "Italian train" was very comfortable,
with a free 1/2 liter bottle of water and morning cappuccino thrown in for
free (breakfast and extra coffee available for a price). The train was late,
but that actually was because of severe thunderstorms in southern Germany.
It's not the greatest night's sleep, but it gets you places in a hurry.
Mark Adair
Belmont, MA USA 05/09/00
Recently traveled from Barcelona to Granada, Spain over night, staying
in a couchette. We were in shock at first as we were smashed into very tiny
close quarters with 4 people we did not know. In addition there was no place
to store luggage except in the small quarters. We finally had to take the
risk of leaving a suitcase outside and hope no one would steal it (it was
so heavy hoped that would deter people) We traveled with 2 skateboard kids
who slept with about 5 skateboards a piece. The positive is that everyone
was sweet and cooperative in our couchette after the shock wore off. Once
we were in our beds it wasn't so bad. However, sleeping was difficult. There
was heavy smoking in the narrow hallways right outside our couchette that
seeped into our couchette. In addition the train made many stops and at
times turned off the engine so there was no air. I woke up each time. Got
to town exhausted. However, if you are going to take a night trains I would
strongly suggest the couchettes. At least there is staff who monitor the
area while you sleep. In the regular coaches some people looked very unsavory
and I wouldn't have felt safe staying up all night with them. In the couchettes
it was basically families. Would I travel sleeping on the train again. Not
if I could help it.
Suzanne
Fairfield, CA USA 05/08/00
I spent four months traveling by train through most of Europe, and it was
wonderful. As a woman traveling alone, I was nervous about the overnight
trains at the beginning, but after the first time, I wasn't worried. Each
country's trains and services are a little different. That's what makes
it fun. Happy trails!
Ludmilla
San Diego, CA USA 04/13/00
Most of the dangers written about on this board are extreme compared
to what thousands of people experience every day in Europe. I have take
plenty of overnight trains in Europe and had no problems whatsoever. Train
travel, especially overnight trains, are a treat you will most likely never
get to experience in the States.
USA 04/13/00
I have found in four trips that the fears of bad things happening are
much greater than the likelyhood unless you're travelling in Greece, Russia,
or similar. Tha worst trouble I have ever had on a night train is being
woken up by customs officers.
Shawn Hawkins
Vancouver, BC CAN 04/12/00
I watched Rick Steves' "Eastern Cities: Prague, Budapest, and Istanbul" video last night, and since I spent last summer in Eastern Europe, I found
one part very amusing. Upon leaving Prague, Rick hops on a CD (Czech Railways
Train) and goes to Budapest on a night train. He says that the conductor
held his passport and ticket and he had a restful night's sleep. I have
taken many night trains in Eastern Europe (Warsaw-Prague, Prague-Krakow,
Prague-Budapest, Prague-Zagreb) and never once has this happened. What usually
happens is that a ticket person AND a border guard come in to the compartment
and wake everyone up. I was awoken 5 times between Prague and Krakow by
Czech and Polish border guards, for seemingly no purpose. Just thought I
would let you all know...
Alex Uher
Bloomington, IN USA 04/04/00
In Berlin, go to the "reisezentrum" at the Berlin Zoo Bahnhof (or the
Euraide office). You should be able to get a 2-bed compartment to yourself
without much problem or expense. If you really want to splurge, you can
probably book an "Intercity Night" room with private shower and toilet for
about DM200 plus your 1st class railpass day. Your best bet would be to
try and travel on a night other than Friday or Sunday (when most business
travelers hit the rails). If all else fails, the daytime high-speed "ICE" train will get you from Berlin to Munich in about 6 hours (take the ICE
towards Frankfurt, make the easy train change in Kassel-Willhelmshoehe,
same track about 5 minutes later, ask the conductor in case I got the change
station wrong :), no supplement with Eurailpass).
Mark Adair
Belmont, MA USA 03/20/00
You can take a sponge bath on the train — I did every nite. You have to do
it standing up. I put a towel on the floor and filled the sink with water.
It was easy. Washing my hair wasn't as easy; it's long. But, someone with
shorter hair wouldn't have a problem. I'm talking First Class: sinks and
area were clean.
Paula Carlisle
Flower Mound, TX USA 03/11/00
On our last trip to Europe (fall'99) our family of 5 took 4 night trains in 5 weeks. We found varying degrees of hospitality. Nothing was standardized. It wasn't until we booked our last night train while in Arles that I realized that I should have been specifying 1st-class couchettes. All along I had assumed that because we had 1st-class rail tickets, we would be given 1st-class couchettes. I understand now that some trains have them and some don't, and some charge premiums. You NEED to ask.
We had one argument with a conductor about our 2 youngest sharing one
couchette bed. Most conductors didn't care and this one finally had to
leave us alone. Generally, the night trains with couchettes were fine — they
all lock and the kids thought they were fine. It was better than spending
a valuable day riding the trains; the kids would have soon tired of that.
I never did learn to sleep well, but earplugs and a glass of wine before
bed help, and the comraderie is fun. We found that bringing food with
us for breakfast helped as we didn't ever know if we were to get anything.
It also was great not to be in a new city needing to eat immediately.
Joanne
Saltspring, USA 03/07/00
Night trains are quite safe and quite economical if you have a railpass. From Munich to Florence, a 4-bed couchette compartment is ideal for a group of four. It's cheap, you get the entire compartment to yourself, and you can lock the door after "lights out." I have found that Munich is especially enjoyable for night train travel, as there are plenty of evening entertainment options before taking the easy public transportation to the Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station). Reservation purchases at the "Reisezentrum" (travel center) in the Munich Hauptbahnhof are quite simple and cheaper than buying reservations far in advance in the States. Most representatives speak excellent English and are extremely helpful recommending the most convenient way to get to your destination.
As for the "Italian Train" vs. "French Train" question, I have found
that Italian international overnight trains are of excellent quality and
provide superb service. The best cappucino I had in my entire stay in
Italy was on the night train from Munich to Rome (caffe in a small Italian
train station a close second). The bottom line is, don't worry about the
"nationality" of the train, just use common sense and enjoy the ride!
Mark Adair
Belmont, MA USA 02/25/00
We two gals shared a 4-bunk couchette from Paris to Venice (Cisalpine).
Bunkmate was a french businessman. No problems. Europeans are used to such
accommodations. Mostly young folks take the cheaper 6-bunk couchette which
I don't recommend. Up all night, talking and having a great time (if you
are young). Eurail guides are quite explicit about descriptions/prices for
the various sleeper trains. "Wagon lit" sleeper-only cars are very expensive...even
with a first-class rail pass. So I would opt for a four-person couchette
which your first class Eurailpass covers for a small extra fee. Overnight
from Venice to Paris is quite comfortable. Take lots of water and snacks
on any train. But TGV speed trains have great snack cars at reasonable prices.
I carried two cups of coffee on a tray thru two cars while traveling at
over 160 MPH!
Heather McFarlane
Gig Harbor, WA USA 02/21/00
Night trains can be a great cultural experience or the worst sleep
of your life. Heck, some can be both. I've taken about 15 night trains in
Europe in my travels and slept on every one. A few tricks are: Travel first
class if you can. I'm not rich but the money is almost always worth it.
Try to limit your compartment to your group (this is easier in first class);
this limits crashing and banging in the night. Some tips for doing this
are: Rick Steves' patented "Big Sleep," and my own version, "Smelly feet
cigarette smoke and snoring" whenever the train comes to a station. Also,
get the reclining seats. Good luck.
Shawn Hawkins
Vancouver, bc CAN 02/01/00
We flew into Rome and asked about night trains to Venice. (We had no
reservations.) Due to the late hour, the ticket office told us we'd have
to catch the train to Venice from the Tiburtina station in Rome. No problem
getting to Tiburtina, but it turned out to be the worst train station I've
ever seen. We had to stand in the terminal for hours with what seemed like
a bunch of ex-convicts. Lot's of "near-fights" and yelling among the locals
and storekeepers. This was in late November and there were tons of folks
with the same idea of sleeping on the train. When the train arrived, there
was a mad dash to find an empty car to sleep in. We did manage to find one
(as the conductor kicked the 2nd class folks out of 1st class), but the
conductor and/or new passengers disturbed us at every stop. (We should have
tried for a couchette, but under the circumstances we felt lucky to find
any place at all to lay down.) We arrived in Venice at 5:30am and had nowhere
to go until things opened up. We basically walked the entire city in the
dark (which was okay because we got to see the water rise in the square),
but we were very tired by the early afternoon. Bottom line: 1) I don't recommend
night trains unless you've made prior arrangements, and 2) avoid Tiburtina
station if possible.
jd
USA 01/20/00
We (self, wife, daughter) took two overnighters in summer '99. 2nd class couchette from Paris to Bern was terrible, even with just three of us in a 4 or 6 (can't remember) compartment. Narrow beds. One arm keeps hitting wall. Yucky vinyl covers, no sheets. 2nd trip was Rome-Munich by 2nd class sleeper. Much better. Attentive porter, sheets, bottled water, breakfast, sink. Still a little cramped, but much better.
I don't understand the inconsistency in what is available (1st vs. 2nd
class not always there, no discount for 1st class europass getting a 2nd
class sleeper supplement when that is all that is available, couchette
vs. sleeper, number of people in each, availability of triples, travel
agent not knowing the need for a country supplement on a Europass, etc.),
the confusing and at times illogical pricing, and from the other postings
here, the apparent element of luck in the quality of the experience. Now
that Europe is semi-united, maybe the quality will become more consistent.
Paul
Cupertino, CA USA 01/17/00
I prefer the 6-seat room-ettes (compartments) to the couchettes. I
found an empty one in Munich by arriving early for my departure, pulled
the seats out, unrolled my sleepsack as a bottom sheet, spread out my unzipped
sleeping bag as a cover and slept like a king until morning. When I awoke
in Firenze the train was packed as I emerged from my closed-curtain compartment.
People were in the aisles, standing anywhere they could. I guess I felt
a bit guilty, but boy did I get some great rest before a big day playing
in Cinque Terre.
Nathan Lambert
Highland, CA USA 01/05/00
1. don't think just because you have the seats made into a bed that thieves won't enter while you're sleeping — keep your money belt attached and UNDER clothing.
2. women: find seats near other women and families
3. bring a filled water bottle to brush teeth, etc.
4. even if it is hot when you get on the train, you may get cold (or vice versa) — be prepared with layered clothing
5. if you don't sleep well, find a hotel in the morning
me
sf, ca USA 01/04/00
Purchase only first-class Eurailpasses. The compartments are rarely crowded,
so there is a good chance that you will have a compartment all to yourself.
The seats are nicer and I recommend pulling all of them out, which makes
a comfortable king-sized bed. This is especially comfortable in Germany,
where the seats are often made of a plush velvety fabric. You can't get
a more comfortable place to sleep for free!'! Also, it discourages thieves
because they would have to climb over our bed to get to our stuff. Finally,
use your inflatable neck rests as a pillow by filling in the "hole" with
a sweatshirt or jacket.
Jamie Halsey
Sacramento, Ca USA 12/16/99
My husband and I have taken many overnight trains in Europe and our experiences have been somewhat mixed. I'm a light sleeper and some trips I slept several hours, others only a couple. We found earplugs, eye maskes, bottled water, and Fabreeze (trial size for the morning after) to be our overnight essentials.
I was eaten alive on an overnight from Munich to Prague by something
in the couchette. I think the creatures were brought in with the blankets
that nobody uses since it is always so hot in the cars. Hubby was bitten
a few times but I had over 40 bites. On a seperate trip hubby and I had
entire compartment to ourselves (we had requested the top bunks) and only
paid for our two spots. The conductor had a sense of humor about it and
warned us with a smile..."No love, no love." :)
CA
New York, NY USA 11/08/99
This year we took the overnighter from Venice to Naples. We bought 1st class train passes before our trip and as a result got stuck with 1st class sleepers instead of the couchettes. They are probably more cramped than the couchette, although you do have a little sink. And in the morning you get a cup of cappucino/espresso & a roll — but we also got bitten raw by some kind of bug! It was disgusting. Last year we had the couchette which is much simpler — a blanket & a cushion, no linen, etc. My advice: simpler and cheaper is always better. Next trip we will take a couple of those sleepsacks just in case.
The overnight train is a wonderful way to add time to your sightseeing
agenda. We've also taken them from Edinburgh to London and Venice to Rome.
It is an experience in itself, for both kids and adults. It is unique
and fun, not something that has to be endured. I have a fairly temperamental
back but look forward to the romance of the overnight train trip. The
train's gentle rocking motion, the occasional whistle when approaching
or leaving some of the towns — you feel like you are on the Orient Express
no matter where you are actually going. We brought a bottle of wine and
some snacks, boarded arounded 10pm and settled in. My 14-year-old thought
it was the neatest night activity we did (except for the Ceremony of the
Keys @ the Tower of London — another story).
brad smith
tiverton, ri USA 10/31/99
Several people have e-mailed me to ask about the tiny cable lock that
I used to secure my family's packs. (See my initial comment dated 6/29/99.)
Here's what I tell them: I got mine at a map store. It had the Eagle Creek
logo on it, and since then I've seen it at several travel/camping shops
that sell the Eagle Creek backpacks & fanny packs. I've also seen it with
a Coleman logo on it at camping/sporting goods stores. Sometimes they
are in the CampMor catalog, too.
Glenda
Austin, TX USA 10/25/99
You can get a silk sleepsack from the Magellan's catalogue (they have
a website) or a cotton one from ETBD's website. And with the VERY GREATEST
OF RESPECT for all those who have commented on everything from attempted
rape to no air conditioning to noisy companions while sleeping, or at
least trying to, in 2nd Class couchette cars...I suspect that is one reason
why they call it "2nd Class"...if sleeping in a bunk were optimal we'd
all be doing it at home, too!
Jon Carrow
Arlington, VA USA 10/13/99
If you're going to use the trains as your sleeping quarters for a good
part of your trip, I suggest you bring your own sheet sleeping bag. Don't
forget your ear plugs too, and if light bothers you, use one of those
eye masks. I also use a large silk scarf to cover the pillow with — just
place the pillow in the center of the scarf and tie the four corners together.
Bring your own water and snacks; none of the trains I traveled on had
water, day or night, and night trains had no food. Also bring toilet paper
and something to wipe the toilet with, something to wash your face with,
and baby wipes for personal cleanliness.
Mary Gessner
Edgewater Park, NJ USA 10/07/99
Happy camper (below): Sounds nice, but if I read your post correctly,
the sleeper car fares came to over $100 US per journey (night) per person.
Definitely way out of our price range! We never paid more than $35 per
person for a hotel room (even in Venice and Paris, and even in Munich
during Oktoberfest). I wonder if the bottom bunk bounces less? My travel
companion snatched the sole bottom bunk in our four-person car (the other
side was set up as a couch deal), so I never had a bottom bunk.
Gina
Washington, DC USA 10/01/99
For Gina et al (below): A private sleeper ("wagon-lit") is quieter than
the couchette you described. Plus if you are traveling with a companion,
2 people together are allowed to buy second class tickets then pay the
wagon-lit supplement. I did 2 legs this past summer: Vevey (near Geneva)
to Venice, & Venice to Paris (which took a transfer at Milan to catch
the overnight). I am a poor sleeper but did fine. The bed didn't bounce
nor did I hear noise from the hallway. The lower bunk flips up to a small
couch underneath so we were able to have drinks & a picnic supper before
going to bed. Our cost was $345 per person for: Vevey/Venice wagon-lit
+ Venice/Milan 2nd class + Milan/Paris wagon-lit.
a happy camper
USA 09/29/99
We used couchettes on three night trains recently: Paris-St. Gervais-les-Bains (then a short connection to Chamonix), Geneva-Venice, and Venice-Munich. The Paris-Chamonix train was quite well run, the conductor very helpful, and we only had two other people in our couchette. The air actually worked. The Geneva-Venice train was much more crowded and was full, including an elderly couple in the bottom bunks who brought a suitcase the size of a coffin and argued for the first two hours of the trip. Air did not work. The Venice-Munich train was reasonably well run; we got lucky and had no one else in the car, and although the air didn't work it was cool enough not to matter.
I felt no safety worries on any of the trains. Of course, I wasn't traveling alone, which may explain some of it, but I didn't get the feeling any of them would have made me edgy as a solo. It is *not* easy to sleep in a couchette, however. Being in the upper bunks and the bounciness of the journey, plus noise from the hallways and other cars, and the occasional stops, does make for an interrupted night. I actually don't think one would sleep *that* much better in a private sleeper car — you'd still hear people in the halls, the bed would still bounce a lot, and the train would still make the same stops.
It was a pretty fun experience overall. I'd recommend folks taking night
trains plan to take it easy the day of arrival and build a bit of rest/nap
time into the midday. Also, keep the stuff you need for the night (toothbrush,
face wipes, whatever) in a small handy bag near the outside of your pack.
Gina
Washington, DC USA 09/28/99
Warning for women traveling alone! I was studying abroad in Europe last
fall and spent a week in Austria. On my night train back to Rome, I found
a car that was virtually empty. An Italian train conductor who was off
duty came into the car and promptly fell asleep. There was another young
gentleman in the car with me and I felt certain that I wouldn't be disturbed
with a conductor in the same car. I dozed off only to be awoken by the
conductor attempting to unbutton my blouse. I screamed and ran out of
the compartment. When I tried to find a conductor he wouldn't listen to
me even though I spoke in fluent Italian. I would just like to warn other
women that are traveling to always watch their back even in the most seemingly
secure situations.
Washington , DC USA 09/14/99
While traveling from Nuremburg, Germany to Vienna, Austria, my son and
i were unable to find the conductor to let us into the first class sleeping
section we'd paid for. So, we did like most of the Europeans and just
slept across three seats in an empty second-class compartment. It wasn't
the best sleep we've had, but it worked. Next time I will just pay and
go second class.
Ginny
Acworth, GA USA 09/05/99
I had heard scary stories about sleeper trains in Russia before my trip
last year. But I heard worse stories about internal flights. My sleeper
train from Moscow to St Petersburg was the nicest train I had ever been
on. I did splurge on first class but it was only about $20 more than 2nd
class. I had fresh flowers in my compartment, a newspaper, extra blankets
and pillows, and a boxed meal with mineral water. The attendent gave me
a safety lock, although they may only give that out to females — on my
overnight to Tallin from St Petersburg, I shared my compartment with an
Australian man who said they never gave one to him.
Sally Hoover
Baltimore, MD USA 09/03/99
I have taken 4 night trips on trains. All were great. The first was
from Barcelona to Lausanne, Switz. I was really nervous, but it went ok — I
slept fine. The 2nd was a couchettefrom Lausanne to Florence. Again I
was nervous but it went well. I tied up my backpack to the bunk and used
it as a pillow. The 3rd trip, I just pulled out the seat in an empty compartment,
from Venice to Vienna. We booby-trapped the door with the bunk ladder.
When the conductor came in it almost hit him. He was angry and adamant
about not having our shoes on the seats. The last night trip was from
Vienna to Munich and we just laid across the seats and slept peacefully
once again. I guess I was just lucky.
Angel Castellanos
EL Monte, CA USA 09/01/99
My husband, mother, and I recently rode a night train from Bologna,
Italy to Geneva, Switzerland. We had couchettes with two other adults
and two children. Even though it was technically a no-smoking car, our
bunkmates would simply open the door and smoke in the hall. It was so
stuffy and hot, I thought we would all suffocate. We tried to open the
window, but it would repeatedly slam shut again. It was a very uncomfortable
night which I hope never to repeat.
Lara
TX USA 08/30/99
My daughter & I pre-reserved a 4-person female couchette (through a
reputable travel agency) from Milan to Paris. Imagine our surprise when
our spot was in a 6-person male car with 4 Italians who did not speak
any English. We were the only females in sight, the guys were all happy
to have us in their room, & the conductor could not have cared less. In
addition, the bathrooms were disgusting, no drinking water available,
hot, stuffy little compartments, many stops all along the way...don't
do it, ladies!
Christine Abarr
Tucson , AZ USA 08/30/99
We've ridden on overnight trains 3 times in couchettes in Europe. IMO
the worst bunk is the middle as you can't sit up in it, unlike the bottom
or top. When we rode Munich to Venice this year I was in top bunk and
there was no railing. It's a long drop down and I was scared I would fall
out when asleep, so my husband tied me into the bunk with a bungie cord
and his belt and that's how I spent our 9th anniversary night! How romantic:(
Jackie
USA 08/30/99
I felt a little dorky buying one of those masks to cover my eyes when
sleeping, but during my first couchette trip I found myself waking up
frequently when the train stopped in every station between Frankfurt and
Berlin, so I tried it. Between ear plugs (the spongy ones are more comfortable)
and my eye mask I slept pretty well. I also found a tiny Mag-lite flashlight
useful for finding things in my bunk without waking up the five men from
Japan who were sharing the car with me.
Anne McCoy
St. Paul, MN USA 08/24/99
There is no longer a night train between Stockholm and Oslo. The last
train to Oslo leaves about 2:40 p.m. For the other night train trips in
Scandinavia, a good strategy is to alternate hotel nights with train nights.
In the summer, the hotels are not very full, and you can usually go straight
to the hotel from the train station in the morning, shower, change clothes,
and then hit the tourist trail before everything opens around 9 or 10a.m.
Eric Cotton
Cleveland, OH USA 08/18/99
The trains in Spain are mainly a pain. They have a different gauge of track that for some reason makes for a very rough ride, except for the new AVE speedsters. We took the Barcelona-Madrid night train which shook, swayed, rattled, lurched, and even BOUNCED. I just knew we would be flying off the tracks any minute. We arrived in Madrid shaken like a martini and checking for bruises. Sleep? Maybe a corpse could.
The Scandinavian trains were our favorites. The couchettes were not
co-ed in Norway and Sweden so we opted for a 3-bunk (made into 2 bunks)
which wasn't that much more in those countries. In the Mediterranean countries
private compartments cost way too much for what you get.
Lynne
Union, WA USA 08/14/99
Our one overnight train ride was dreadful. During peak season, the couchette
cars are full of loud, obnoxious students. It was more like a frat party
on wheels...we didn't get ANY sleep. Being in our 30's and thus being
forced to buy 1st-class Eurail passes didn't save us — there were NO 1st
class cars or seats or sleeping accommodations of any kind on any of the
night trains we considered. So we gave up our plan of using night trains.
Candi Fisher
Pleasant Hill, CA USA 07/30/99
We recently completed travel in Scandinavia with overnight train experiences
on the Copenhagen-Oslo and return runs. We had 1st class tickets and reservations.
There was no food service except on the 20-minute ferry crossing to Sweden.
The ride was hot but very smooth. Our four children had no trouble sleeping
either in compartments or in the couchettes, and enjoyed meeting their
roommates in the couchette. However, far from being spotless, the entire
train reeked of stale urine. My husband and I spent the whole next day
after each overnight recovering in our hotel room! We have decided from
now on to take day trains and sleep in clean, non-toxic hotels!
Jeanne Freeman
Medina, Oh USA 07/29/99
Just returned from Italy. Took the overnite train from Paris to Pisa.
Couchettes were very close quarters, hot and noisy. I wish we had upgraded
but we were traveling with BrandX tours and not given the opportunity
to select first class. The conductor failed to wake our courier on time
and several of our group members slept through our stop. Lots of smoking
in non-smoking areas too.
S.K. Dolman
Tucson, AZ USA 07/16/99
We just got back from three weeks, mainly in Italy. We started our trip
in Paris and had an overnight train from Paris to Genoa as we were going
to relax a few days at the Cinque Terre. The train was over an hour late.
When it pulls in and everyone starts scrambling. There was a sign up that
said due to a strike there would be no food or sleep service on the train.
The mob was headed for any empty compartment they could find. I dashed
to a 3-bed couchette in 1st class and held it for my wife, aunt and mom.
We didn't get much sleep, however, because we had second class tickets
and for the first couple hours were worried about getting kicked out of
1st class. The rest of the night we were worried we would sleep through
Genoa and end up in Rome. Anyway, we had another overnight planned for
Rome to Venice. We rented a car and enjoyed the trip much more.
Mike
TX USA 07/02/99
My husband and I took the night train from Naples to Venice, as recommended
by RS. The 1st class sleeper cost the same as a relatively inexpensive
hotel (around $70), was air-conditioned, and virtually empty! Most importantly,
the bathroom was clean! We shared it with the FS man who was in charge
of our car. He even brought us cappuccinos and a newspaper (in Italian).
The weather was getting warm (May/June, 1999), and with the sleeper's
air conditioning, it was actually the only time I had a good night's sleep.
Maria
Laurel, MD USA 06/30/99
A few observations after a lousy night betwen Venice and Rome:
*It was cheap! About $11/person surcharge to our Italy Rail Pass.
*The "linens" were a joke; imagine sleeping in a tangle of synthetic interfacing. Upside: It was nice to be able to tear off bits to quiet rattles in the compartment.
*Although I appreciated the extra space on the top bunk, it was soooo hot up there, and not everyone else in our compartment cared to have the window open. Maybe lower is better during the summer.
*My tiny locking cable was great: I threaded its cable through a metal fitting on each of our fannypacks and backpacks, locking then all together. Although a very strong person could have walked off with the lot, worrying about losing our stuff wasn't keeping me awake.
*There wasn't any food service on this overnighter. Check the timetable, and bring snacks.
*Brush your teeth before boarding.
*The toilets weren't great when we boarded and were completely disgusting
by morning. We were lucky enough to find toilets (for free!) at the Tibertina
station when we disembarked.
Glenda
Austin, TX USA 06/29/99
I agree with the comment below about getting the Thomas Cook timetable.
And anyway it's fun even when you're not in Europe. If you can wait until
you get to Europe to purchase it, it's much cheaper ($27.95 in the States,
£8.95 in the UK). At many bookstores, and, of course, at all Thomas Cook
offices.
Bob L.
Derby, UK 06/26/99
My 14-year-old son and I recently took the overnight train from Paris
to Rome, and splurged by renting a sleeping compartment (not just a couchette).
We understood that this would be pretty fancy, with a dining car, etc.
Imagine our disappointment when our compartment was dirty, the attendant
who was supposed to be "at our service" completely disinterested, spending
most of his time smoking and looking out of the window (in a no-smoking
car), and no dining car at all! A complete waste of $150!
Leslie
AK USA 06/18/99
Our last trip to the continent was our 14th in the last 4 years. We are in our early 60s and need our rest. We took a night train from Salzburg to the UK via Munich-Paris-Calais, with a private sleeping compartment reserved from Munich to Paris. It was very nice but private it was not. Our conductor insisted on the French gendarme checking our passport and bags instead of holding our passports for us like the Germans and Spanish normally do. Even in Eastern Europe it is the norm.
Since we couldn't get any sleep we insisted that our travel agent get
us a refund for the pricey sleeping compartment. They did so promptly.
M & R Bolden
San Clemente, Ca USA 06/11/99
My recommendation for anyone who will travel by train anywhere in Europe
is to invest in the latest edition of the Thomas Cook Timetable and keep
it WITH you. Although the schedules posted in the stations are outstanding,
having the Cook timetable can be helpful if you get somewhere and decide
you want to stay longer than originally thought, or divert through some
other place, etc. The timetable is worth every penny and lists ALL the
schedules including ferries and lake steamers as well as equipment, etc.
Jon Carrow
Arlington, VA USA 05/31/99
Elsewhere on this website, Steves warns of the dangers of taking the
night train between Moscow and St. Petersburg. I was worried about the
trip I had planned, taking that very train roundtrip. I'm back and happy
to report that the train felt very safe. There was no need to wedge anything
in the lock because the attendants come around and hand out a plastic
device that goes over the whole lock mechanism to jam it shut! Maybe they
had too many prior complaints...
Nancy Gold
Cambridge, MA USA 05/18/99
My wife and I took our first trip through Europe using railpasses. Except for first day confusion, everything went well. I was unprepared for how little time you have to change trains: sometimes as little as 5 minutes. My advice: Get a train schedule table or ask the conductor. The train table will list, by city, the track of the train you're getting off and the track of the train you want to connect to.
If you can't prepare in advance, jump off the train and IMMEDIATELY
get to the board listing the train table. Locate the track of your connecting
train and hurry. You may only have a few minutes or you'll have to sit
hours for the next train. (Also there is not such thing as elevators or
escalators in train stations. If you don't pack light, you need to be
in shape to lug all that luggage.)
Louis
Dallas, TX USA 05/08/99
What a difference the time of year and the origin of the train can make! In late July '97 we railed from Munich to Venice. The Italian train was old, very crowded, with no room except your bunk, and by morning the toilets overflowed. It was not a pleasant experience but with the help of a mild sleeping pill, ear plugs, and the excitement of going to Venice we didn't care.
Then in Sept. I travelled on a Swiss train from Bern to Roma. The two
of us were alone in our locked, air-conditioned, modern, clean compartment
and awoke to a croissant and coffee brought to us by our attentive coachman — really
first class!
Scott
Kirkland, WA USA 04/28/99
Last June, my sister and I and 2 other female friends went wild in Italy for 3 weeks. We travelled by train from Milano to Marina Del Cantone (south of Naples). All was excellent and fairly enjoyable until it was time for 2 girls to depart from Naples (which is very dangerous — many scam artists — GIRLS BEWARE!). They boarded a sleeper train (Naples to Milano — very expensive) and I warned them to be careful. But the conductor was in on a scam, and they GOT ROBBED during the night! Their luggage was swiped, $$ and airline tickets were gone. So: TUCK YOUR MONEY/AIRLINE TICKETS/PASSPORT IN YOUR UNDERGARMENTS AND DOWN YOUR PANTS! I know this sounds extreme, but on sleeper trains, you Must Be Smart!
P.S. Don't expect much help or sympathy at the airport if your tickets
are lost or stolen. We finally found a wonderful manager, Tony, at Alitalia,
who helped my sister, got her a hotel, and got her on a plane home, without
asking for any "favors!"
Susan and the Bungies!
Cape Coral, FL USA 04/26/99
We took a night Estrella train from Granada to Madrid. Originally we thought we'd get the cheaper couchette but decided to splurge the extra $15 or so per person and get private compartments. After the previous night spent in a bug-infested beach cabana, the Estrella train proved to be a most welcome bed.
Nobody bothered us in the night, the cabins were clean and provided toiletries and private sink. We had very comfortable bunks and we slept great in the rocking train.
When we arrived in Chamartin station, we stumbled right into a cafe bar for breakfast and away we went!
If you only have one day in Granada, I recommend taking this night train
back to Madrid — it saved us a bundle in hotel costs.
Lisa
Chicago, IL USA 04/20/99
You do have to add the appropriate zone to a Europass if your train travels
through a country that's not part of the base Europass fare. From everything
I've heard, you'll get nailed if you try to train through, say, Austria,
without the appropriate add-on to your train pass. And it makes for a
rude awakening!
Gina Shaw
Washington, DC USA 04/07/99
We recently took the Lusitania, a Talgo sleeper that runs between Madrid and Lisbon. With two kids, we were able to reserve an entire four-berth compartment, which saved money because (1) four-berth compartments are in 2nd class and (2) RENFE gives you a discount if you take an entire compartment. The ride was very nice, the service pleasantly unobtrusive, and security was never an issue.
We maximized sleep by doing the following: (1) The kids get the upper
bunks; the movements of the train are more exaggerated up top but kids
can sleep through anything and ; (2) earplugs, as someone else suggested
below — even if no one snores they filter out enough of the track noise;
(3) I took Tylenol PM (bring it from the US) and slept until the conductor
rang our doorbell 40 minutes before arrival. I am a light sleeper by nature
but got 8 good hours on the train...I'm still trying to figure out how
European rail really works though: I bought the tickets in England for
travel in Spain, received them in a DB folder, and they were ticketed
by SNCF. The EC may be farther along than we realized!
Bob L.
Derby, UK 04/05/99
Use caution on where you sleep on a train, in particular the destination
of the car. My daughter and other students were taking a night train to
Italy on their youth rail passes. One of their friends could not find
a place to sleep. He decided to go to the next car and asked his friends
to get him when they got to their stop. The next morning when they went
to get him they could not find the car he was in. Apparently, that car
was not going to the same location and was disconnected at an interim
stop. Unfortunately, all he took was his Walkman and, of course, his railpass
and passport around his neck. His friends were left with his shoes and
backpack. Fortunately he is an easygoing soul. When he woke up at his
stop, it was early. He had to wait till a store opened to buy shoes and
then hopped a train and headed back to school.
MBeyer
Farmington Hills, Mi USA 03/29/99
i highly recommend reading the latest issue of the eurail handbook when
planning train trips. it gives explicit info on ticketing problems, train-riding
benefits or dangers not mentioned by other guides, advice on how to avoid
or deal with problems.
carol
ca USA 03/28/99
Here's a little tip for buying train tickets or making reservations in
countries where you don't know the language: pick the ticket window with
a young woman. We discovered that the young women are usually more polite
and often know English. If they don't know English, they work harder to
bridge the language gap. It sounds kind of weird, but we started using
this technique after a particularly rude, older man in Naples wouldn't
even attempt to communicate with us since we didn't know Italian (making
couchette reservations was a little beyond my sparse Italian).
Bryan Hilterbrand
Salt Lake City, UT USA 03/23/99
Overnight in a Couchette from Milan to Rome was just fine. A small cash
surcharge with our Eurail passes and the conductor took care of us. It
was safe and private for us — at least inside the train. At a stop along
the way, my wife and I were beamed with a flashlight by a nightman on
the platform outside the window. Fortunately, it was a quick stop! I'm
sure he remembers us!
Cowboy
San Diego, CA USA 03/23/99
My 11-yr- old son & I took the night train from Stirling, Scotland to
London. Scotrail was great. Although we had 2nd class Britrail passes
we were able to get a private double berth (upper & lower beds) compartment.
It was very clean and they provided towels, a toiletry kit, Scotrail magazine
& a paperback novella by a British writer. My son enjoyed all the switches
& gadgets...I appreciated the clean sheeets & cozy blankets, & the locks
on the doors. In the morning they bring coffee/chocolate & croissants
to your compartment. Although I didn't get enough sleep, we enjoyed the
experience & the time it saved. The shower facility @ Waterloo station
was very clean and helped us start our new day. I recommend reserving
at least a few days in advance for the non-smoking cars. Happy trails!
Patricia Allen
houston, tx USA 03/14/99
Don't get a *seat* on an overnight 'Estrella' type train within Spain. My friends and I made this mistake twice and wound up crammed into compartments with three other people (for 8 total) and spent the night trying to get comfortable. We ended up sleeping the following day until late in the afternoon...and this was in February. I'd hate to imagine it in the summer!
I wouldn't recommend females travel alone on overnight trains in Italy...we
met some shady characters who made us nervous even tho we seriously outnumbered
them!
rebecca
MI USA 03/11/99
I could never have seen or exprienced so much had I not planned my itinerary
around overnight train rides. We began in Amsterdam, slept on the way
to Munich, slept on the way to Budapest, and did the same from Paris back
to Amsterdam — with stayovers of course. Granted, we were pooped by the
end of our nine days, but it was great fun! I must mention we did this
in January when the trains were never crowded and our 1st class compartment
provided two comfortable beds when the arms were raised. (Be sure to bring
your own snacks. The food and drink prices are outrageous!)
Claudia Smith
Ponte Vedra Beach, FL USA 03/07/99
Don't count on first class couchettes on every train, even if you have
a first-class railpass. Last Summer we purchased first-class rail-drive
passes through ETBD. I told my family we would sleep in first class couchettes,
but we couldn't find any on our trips. You either sleep in 2nd class (we
did this in Italy — not a great rest) or rent a sleeping car. The latter
was a nice trip from Venice to Vienna, but we needed 2 rooms (2 adults,
2 teens) and it cost $100+ per room.
Don
Seattle, WA USA 02/16/99
Traveling in the off-season during Christmas, there are often very limited
night train offerings. However, I was really impressed with the Berlin-Munich
ICN line as the couchettes were new and really nice. The night train from
Stockholm to Copenhagen was disappointing because the train was dirty,
the sheets were not washed, the rooms were musty and dirty, and there
was no dining car. I really didn't like taking night trains because I
didn't sleep well or at least not long enough; and there are often no
showers on the night trains so I had to pay for expensive showers in the
station or walk around dirty all day.
Anthony Riker
Washington, DC USA 02/04/99
get the latest copy of the EURAIL HANDBOOK, which lists train schedules,
itinerary options, instructions, warnings, etc. for trains all over the
world. it is a small, thick paperback comparable in size to rick's books
and easy to carry.
carol
ca USA 02/04/99
My wife and 12 year old son and I used Eurailpasses for a 6-week trip. They are the only way to go. We took a couple of overnight trips and found the compartments are good if you are either alone or have good travel companions, but it is difficult to tell who will be in your compartment. We enjoyed renting a couchette as a splurge, however I was horribly motion ill the next morning from being in the top bunk, as was my son on the next run. If at all possible, try to get the lower or at least the middle bunk, as the higher you are, the more motion you have from the train.
I can't undertand the people complaining abnout the noise of the trains
or the clattering of the tracks...this is part of travelling, it is part
of the magic of going overseas. As Rick says, we have to realize that
not all beds are 6 feet long, not all people have the same un-natural
need for perfect customer service, etc. that N. Americans have.
Criag McHaffie
Victoria, BC CAN 01/30/99
This is really a budget consideration concerning transportation. For
those turning 40 in 1999, there is a 40% discount on Eurail passes in
celebration of the 40 year anniversary of the pass. All you soon to be
fortysomethings can enjoy a significant savings. Enjoy!!!
David Gobeille
Rehoboth, MA USA 01/27/99
Re: Craig Donofrio's experience on the overnight train between Prague and Budapest. It pains me to learn that nothing has changed. In 1993 we reversed the trip Craig mentioned. We also reserved a 1st class sleeper. However, we were the ONLY passengers in the 1st class car. Because of that and because the conductor would not care for the passports between borders, we were subjected to doors opened, lights switched on, passports examined and us scrutinized to ensure we were the people pictured in pports photos! Then, since the guards had nothing else to do ... they stood outside our compartment and talked loudly, smoked and (I think) tap danced on the hard floor! Needless to say we arrived in Prague with little or no sleep.
But would I travel on night trains again? YES! We believe is is a great way to conserve sightseeing time and frankly, even room finding is not necessary if you plan a day visit and overnight out the next night!
I would also like to comment on the City Night Line trains. In 1996
we took the City Night Line to Vienna. I opted for the 4 person compartment
— don't even try it with four people. Thank goodness we were good friends
because with only our 4 back packs and 4 bunks in place, there was NO
room to move.
Pat Koko
Oak Park, IL USA 01/08/99
I opted for the early a.m. train from Munich to Venice instead of the
overnight. Reason: I did not want to miss the sensational views of the
countryside. Was I glad I did! Going through the Brenner Pass, seeing
the vineyards and mountain vistas would have been missed by sleeping.
My only regret was not having brought breakfast with me on the train.
The dining car and service can only be described as 'grubby' and they
ran out of food almost immediately.
Marianne Zechel Merz
Monteagle, TN USA 01/06/99
An empty coke can placed between the compartment door and seat cushion
will crash to the floor if the door is opened in the night. Buy a few
12 inch plastic coated steel fishing leaders, cut off the end pieces and
use the loops and a small lock to secure your luggage's zippers to your
seat. They can be looped together, weigh nothing yet are yank and knife
proof.
John Davis
Harbor Springs, mi USA 12/24/98
Recently took the overnight train from Paris to Venice and reserved
a 1st class compartment. It was GREAT! Our porter was attentive, the train
was clean and warm, and we arrived well rested and fresh.
Jay
Washington,D.C., USA 12/23/98
RULE #1: Do not sleep in a compartment alone! I became cocky toward the
end of my 6 weeks in Europe. When I got on the train from Montreux, Switzerland
to Rome, I said goodbye to my travel companion at the station and settled
into an empty compartment. I stretched out on the bench seat and went
to sleep. Several hours later I woke up and noticed my compartment door
was slightly open. I bolted upright and saw a man opening my backpack!
(Rule #2 — You are a moron if you don't protect your gear). I yelled at
him and luckily he left my compartment. Later, the would-be robber came
back and looked into my compartment again! Even though I screamed, no
one came. The train stopped shortly after that, and I saw the guy leaving.
I was extremely lucky — I wasn't hurt and nothing was taken. I was really
embarrassed by this story, since so many easy things could have been done
to avoid it, and I like to think of myself as a wise traveler. I wanted
to share it here so no one else would make the same mistake I did, because
the consequences could have been pretty severe.
Marisa
CA USA 12/06/98
Sleeper trains are great. One tip: We had a group of five and we were
able to get great family discounts on couchettes in Spain. I plan to ask
about that discount all the time now. Also, I am a strong beliver in taking
care of your departure (check the schedule, make any reservations, etc.)
8as soon as you reach your destination...especially if you are travelling
in a group.
R.J Bliey
Douglasville, GA USA 11/29/98
When making your couchette reservation always ask for a bottom bunk.
In my experience they begin filling the couchette from the bottom up so
they may place you in another couchette when you ask for the bottom. Also,
making reservations at the last minute helps; when you make them way in
advance they simply pack people in even though the last few couchettes
may be empty.
Larry Day
Chicago, IL USA 11/29/98
We took three night trains. On our first trip we had only one other person
in the couchette. He was a delight. Our second trip, we were alone in
the couchette. Our third trip, the train was packed and our couchette
was full. Each time we slept well. We had money belts for our valuables,
and security was not a problem. The gentle rocking of the train allowed
us to rest our weary tourist bodies. The conductor always took our passports
so we were not awakened in the night. The steward always woke us with
plenty of time for personal grooming and a quick breakfast. The train
system is unbeatable.
Rebecca Brannon
Davenport, Ia USA 11/28/98
In Rick Steves' PBS video on Prague and Budapest, the description of the overnight train ride made it seem more or less like pure bliss: "Hand the conductor your ticket and passport before departing Prague so you aren't awakened during the night and then wake up refreshed the next day in Budapest." Not very likely. We splurged and bought the 1st class sleeper for the two of us. However, the conductor would not accept our passports, therefore we were awakened four times during the night. First, when the conductor came by to verify we had our p-ports, then going into Slovakia, then out of Slovakia, and finally into Hungary. All guards knocked loudly and pulled the door partially open, (they can compromise the deadbolt, but not the chain lock inside the room) and the Hungarian guards (yes, four different ones had to view our p-ports) actually stepped into our room and turned on the lights. Most unpleasant. Had we known this ahead of time, we would have probably opted for the cheaper, second-class arrangements with a couchette knowing that we wouldn't get a good nights sleep anyway.
This is probably not an issue in the EU countries since their borders
are not as "old-fashioned" as in the former Blocs. Also, this is neither
an indictment of Rick's tips nor the trains in Eastern Europe. Other trains
have been fabulous — I would not hesitate to travel on them again in the
future. I just won't plan on sleeping on them until our friends in the
East smooth out the rough edges!
Craig Donofrio
Chicago, IL USA 11/13/98
We used the CityNightLine from Vienna to Cologne this year and reserved
the deluxe compartment. You couldn't ask for a better way to travel. The
compartment locked so there was no sleeping with your money belt on. The
private toilet and shower come in very handy and the breakfast that was
delivered to our compartment wasn't bad either, We slept for over six
hours and never heard a noise. This is definitely a good deal, albeit
an expensive one, but as a splurge at the end of our trip, it was worth
it. The economy bedrooms are smaller but the beds are the same type suggesting
a good night sleep there also. For the economy compartments, the toilet
and shower are at the end of the car. Yes, it's extra money, but not that
much more when you consider the cost of transit and a hotel.
Craig Keeley
Ocean City, NJ USA 11/09/98
Nite trains are the best! Spent two weeks in 9 countries. Only used
hotels 4 nites. Had the budget and pass to get the first-class sleeper
compartment and slept like kings, waking to a new country each day.The
"attendant" for each sleeping car took care of us like family. One word
of caution: double check your reservation card for the next nite's journey
to be sure you leave from the same station you arrived at. Almost missed
our nite train from Vienna because we assumed there was only one station.
Dan Skau
Lodi , ca USA 11/05/98
Sleeping on the train is definitely a bonus, especially if you get one
of the private sleeping compartments. Beware however! On one of the trains,
we couldn't sleep with the window open(I would have fallen out feet first),
and the air conditioning was turned off so it got a bit stuffy in there.
Amy
Portland, OR USA 11/05/98
Couchettes were a good option for overnight travel. I got a good nights sleep each time, earplugs are a must however, and I met nothing but nice normal people as cabin mates. The bathrooms on these where really disgusting.
Avoid what are known as Euronight trains. Apparently the old style night trains aren't very profitable and many of the routes are being turned over to this privately run corporation on contract. Some routes were listed in the schedule I got with my Railpass, but I found that some routes listed as normal night trains had been changed to Euronight trains. Train station staff will tell you these are "private trains" when you ask about a reservation, but what they mean is you just arrange for a seat with the conductor on the train when it arrives. Railpasses are honored, and the cars are much more modern, have nice bathrooms, and also a whole car devoted to a bar. While these trains have private berths (about 80) they do not have couchettes. Instead they contain Schindlerwagens, which are cars of upright seats similar to airplane seats. While the additional cost is only about $8, they are not very adjustable and I found them very uncomfortable. In two nights on these torture racks the best I did was about 3 hours of fitful sleep.
Apparently I'm not the only one that has trouble with these. Once I
got up to stretch the kinks out of my legs and visit the bathroom. When
I returned I noticed that my luggage had been moved. Upon investigating
I found that the guy in the seat in front of me had moved it so he could
climb into the overhead luggage rack to lay down! Also if you must ride
these things avoid sitting in the center of the cars as the ventilation
isn't good and they get too hot.
Ron Ball
Bremerton, WA USA 11/04/98
Light sleepers will have to give up a night of rest. From Paris to Milan
I had a post WWII sleeper car, smell of fuel, noise beyond belief and
four additional cabin mates with differing views of window ventilation
and room temp. I thought I was on my way to the Russian front! Sleeping
on the Eurostar, however, is a different story.
Mike
Cincinnati, OH USA 11/04/98
When traveling on the trains in Eastern Europe, splurge and get a sleeping compartment. If you don't you will be awakened at all major train stops by the conductors looking for your ticket. This compounded with the multiple border crossing officials (sometimes two or more from each country at a border) who wake you for passports, customs, etc.
Sleeping in the couchettes can be cheap but be careful. We tried to get a sleeping compartment from Paris to Milan but everything was full except couchettes. The three of us ended up with two other travelers who had also gotten stuck in the same situation. All was well until the last minute when "STINKY" got on board and joined the group. Everyone jumped to open the window (which wouldn't open). The entire night was awful. He must have run the marathon a week earlier and never showered after that. YUCK!
Overall, my many experiences sleeping on the train have been positive.
I prefer to sleep on the train and save hotel expenses. Think about how
great it is to wake up in a different country/city almost every morning.
Lisa Stine
Washington, DC USA 11/04/98
I actually slept better on a few night trains than I did in some of
the hostels!! I splurged for a couchette a few times, but once I decided
it wasn't always worth the money (really pricy in Scandinavia), I didn't
usually have trouble finding friendly, seemingly trustworthy (I never
once had a problem) compartment mates. When looking for a compartment
to sleep in, peek through curtains/doors that are mostly drawn; often
there are other travellers in there who are hiding out from possible weirdos,
and if you're friendly, they'll often let you in and you'll have found
a safe compartment to spend the night in. A neat fact: in Scandanavia,
if the train you're on is crossing a body of water, the train is often
put on a ferryboat, and you can get off the train and walk about the ship.
I saw one of the most beautiful harvest moons I've ever seen, and a crisp,
starry night sky, from the deck of a boat on a night train from Stockholm
to Copenhagen. :)
Steph Randall
Seattle, WA USA 11/04/98
My wife and I traveled slept on the train for 6 nights of our 3 week
trip. We saved a lot of money, not to mention time by traveling at night.
Couchettes are the way to go! I am a very light sleeper, so if I can do
it, anyone can. Take earplugs and reserve them at least a day in advance.
Also, if you have a first class railpass (if you are over 26 you probably
will) you can get a first class couchette (4 births instead of six) in
some countries for the same price as a second class couchette. Be sure
and ask.
Darin Raffety
Overland Park, KS USA 10/27/98
Couchettes are worth the Extra Fee! Pay the money and ask for one of
the bunks on top!!! It is a good idea to make the reservation a few days
in advance. Bring sleepsheets with you and you will be fine.
Jess Williams
Panama City, FL USA 10/24/98
My best friend and I backpacked Europe this past summer. Our trip was
considered "budget" to the extreme. For those of you out there who can
handle a bit of roughness and have the stamina I do recommend taking night
trains and sleeping in the normal compartments. You do not lose any time
"experiencing" the world. One day you may be in Paris, and the next in
Vienna. We rarely had a problem with others in our compartment. As soon
as the train arrived, we hopped on, chose an empty compartment, then either
I or my friend Maggie would claim to be extremely sick and lay down with
our sheets, dmear make-up on our faces, and breath deeply while making
gagging noises. When one would look in to see if there was room, we would
sprout a look of concern and say that the other is highly contagious.
Kasia
Chicago, IL USA 09/29/98
My husband and I just came back from a trip to Munich and Vienna. We
had to take a train back to Munich from Vienna to get to the airport on
time and we had to leave on the train at 11:30 p.m. and it was a 6 hour
trip. If you think that you don't need a sleeping compartment, guess again.
We made the mistake of just paying for a regular compartment and were
sorry we did. We had to share this 6 chair compartment with another couple
and even though the seats pulled out and you could possibly sleep, you
can't!!! I suggest to go ahead and pay the extra money for a sleeping
compartment. It probably would have been okay if it was just my husband
and I in the compartment, but don't count on that happening.
val
mercersburg, pa USA 09/29/98
This is a FYI for train travelers in France: There was a rumor afloat
that all automatic baggage checks were closed due to fears of bombs. I
queried SNCF & was just today informed by them that in preparation for
the World Cup the facilities had been renovated & reopened, at least in
those cities that hosted matches.
Cosmo
Baltimore, Md USA 09/16/98
Definitely worth the trouble if one has limited time, or a limited train
pass such as a Europass. I saved some overnight hotel/hostel stay prices,
and most couchettes were very comfortable. I often made the reservation
same day or night before. Warning! A reservation for a couchette does
-not- get u a res on that train if that train requires it!! That is a
separate reservation and fee!! For froglewis...your 1st class over 26
railpass lets you sit in 2nd class which, as Rick says,is much more fun
anyway, but your under 26 partner will not be able to sit in 1st with
you! With a 1st class pass, you may sleep in 2nd class couchettes, also...bring
your own food on board, as not every country includes breakfast in their
overnight cars. For those travelling Munich-Prague-Munich, several tips...first,
it will be nice clean safe German railway travel into Prague,however,
coming back out it will be Czech railways service, which is still catching
up to the rest of Europe. Please dont let the Prague train station throw
you for a loop when you first get there...it nearly did me! It's gloomy,
and a little depressing, and difficult to locate things...also there are
quite a few money changing offices that also book accomodations. Follow
Rick's tips, and dont -ever- change money with a citizen on the streets
or in the station! For those day-trippers, the left luggage office is
downstairs into the main level, then turn around and go down one more
ramp. Don't bother with the lockers (if you can figure them out). You
give your luggage on the left window, and you pay upon picking it up again
at the right window. For those interested, Prague has some absolutely
beautiful crystal figurines, vases, etc for a lot less than in western
Europe. Be sure to cross the river and see the view of Prague from the
hillside above. In Munich, for a cybercafe with internet access, proceed
towards track 11 (near Euraide office) and just as you leave station thru
that door, on your left is Times Square cybercafe. (They also make a mean
white spaghetti with mushrooms just ask for extra parmigiano cheese!)
A new youth hostel has opened up less than 2 blocks from the station in
Munich, and it's mentioned on the Euraide brochure in the rack outside
their office. Very clean,quiet, no age limit, and very reasonable prices.
No food there, but plenty within reach all around the area. While in Munich,take
the walking tour mentioned also in the Euraid brochure...well worth it!
kris
Safety Harbor, FL USA 09/15/98
I just returned from visiting Russia in Aug. We used Rick Steves' Russia
and the Baltics guide book. It was invaluable! Don't leave home without
it and then hang onto it as tightly as your passport. There were 3 in
our group. We traveled from Helsinki to St. Petersburg on the Finnish
train line and were treated very well. Important to know that you should
not wait to get your reserved ticket at the time of your trains departure
but the the day or days before. The train departs at 6:30am and the ticket
selling window does not open until 9am!!! The St. Petersburg Finlandskii
Vokzal station is old and not an easy place to break into Russian culture.
Watch your personal effects. Our first experience was to have my camera
ripped off from my back pack pocket before I got out of the station. A
hard lesson. Also be sure if you are using Rics' Baltic guide to note
that the Metro entrance is immediately to the right exiting the front
door and down stairs. We had a bit of confusion locating it from the guide
books' sketch. We could not find an open TI or money exchange or any sign
of an ATM at this station. Arrive with rubles if they are still worth
their weight. We walked to the St. Petersburg Youth Hostel from the station
as a last resort. It is doable!
Our overnight train from St. Petersburg to Moscow was a much more enjoyable
experience. Again we followed Ricks' guide book info. to the last detail
and had a very good experience. We went directly to the Central Railway
Booking office and used the sample ticket request page in our guide book
to purchase 3 beds in a 4 kupe room on the deluxe train to Moscow leaving
23:33, arriving 7:45am. I think "deluxe" might be the key word here. We
did not feel abit insecure. The 4 berth room was clean and inviting with
its' flower arrangement, bottled water, and clean beds. The porter of
our car kept our passports upon entering the car, came and delivered a
cold prepared breakfast to our compartment and gave us a secuity stretch
lock to secure our compartment on the inside before saying good evening.
We enjoyed a good nights' sleep and were awakening by the porter with
our passports in the a.m. with ample time to eat and prepare to depart.
The Moskovskii Vokzal train station departing St. Petersburg to Moscow
was far superior to the Finlandskii Vokzal station where we arrived in
St. Petersburg. It was luck that our 4th berth in the kupe room was not
taken. It might be worth the extra bucks to reserve the 4th for your own
privacy and space.
Sue Anderson
Auburn, CA USA 09/07/98
I have taken the overnight train from London to Edinburgh a number of
times. That makes a day trip to Edinburgh do-able. But while you can get
some sleep, that train ride is only about 6hrs & is almost too short for
a good night's sleep & then a day of touring. Keep the shades closed,
so all the lights at the various stations don't shine in. We have also
taken the overnight train from Stockholm to Copenhagen. That was long
enough to get some good sleep & even have a nightcap before bed. The train
was very clean, inside the cabin there was a bathroom & even a small place
to take shower which was convenient. But on this train, you have to cross
water. & to do that, the whole train is loaded into the bottom of a ferry
& taken across the water & unloaded on the other side. That is quite an
experience. I have booked overnight trains from the states & also have
done it in Europe, a few days before using the train. Which you do depends
upon whether I have to be somewhere on a certain date, or schedule is
flexible, or if it is a busy route or busy time of year.
Bill Irving
Streamwood, IL USA 09/04/98
My husband and I had Eurodrive passes on each of our trips to Europe. We flew in and out of Paris (cheapest non-stop ticket from Los Angeles) and used our train days for overnights between large cities.. We've taken overnight trains from Paris to Barcelona, Paris to Madrid, Barcelona to Milano, Barcelona to Genoa (almost) and Rome to Paris. We learned the hard way that you should not plan an overnight trip into Italy starting on Friday as "strikes" almost always happen at the beginning of a week-end. Also, the overnight train from Barcelona to Milano only runs on Mon, Wed, and Friday nights. (Good thing we had planned to travel on Wednesday!)
On our first trip we did get caught up in a strike. The train from Barcelona
to Genoa stopped in Nice about 7am and everyone was ordered off the train.
Fortunately we had our car "coupons" and were soon on our way in a rental
car.The best overnight train originated in Paris. We not only had our
own compartment, but for about $30 extra dollars we had our own bathroom
and shower! I reserved all our overnight trains including the compartment
reservation (except for the ones originating in Spain) through Raileurope
and had our tickets in hand before we left. I hope to have the opportunity
to go again soon.
L. Banales
South Pasadena, CA USA 08/27/98
My cousin & I just returned from 2 weeks in Italy. We took the over-night
from Rome to Paris. I am a poor sleeper & was worried about all the crime
I had read about. We had a private room, with air-con. The conductor was
at the far end & could see the entire car. The bed was comfortable & the
movement of the train lulled me to sleep. I would not hesitate to do it
again.
joanne solon
streamwood, il, il USA 08/21/98
Last year I spent four months living in Florence, Italy. In that time I got to travel to almost every country in Europe, which means sleeping on trains was normal to me. While ridding on trains I never got anything stolen. My secret? I slept on my backpack. Not just my head, I slept on top of it, kind of like a teddy-bear. I know it doesn't sound very comfortable but it did its job.
One thing you have to be sure of is that all the zippers and openings are against you. Do not leave them in the open! These people are pro's, they can get in anything. I had a friend that straped her backpack on to her with a chain and that didn't stop the theives. They grabed the backpack and ran off,with her still attached,and didn't realize that she was attached until he was almost jumped off the train. Luckly he let go.
Another thing that might help is to bring some kind of device that you
can attach to the door of the train. Now remember, you can't tie the doors
shut, the conductor will get real mad at you if you do. My advice is to
have some kind of bell or something that would make noice if it were touched
or moved in any way. You can use a ribbon or rope and tie it lightly to
the doors. Enough that the doors will open when the conductor comes in
to check your passports and tickets. This can be used as some kind of
a alarm but don't rely only on this. You still need to protect your bags.
I know this all may sound like a plan the "Brady Bunch" would use but
trust me it works. And it's better to be safe than sorry!
Jamie Chitty
Bossier City, La USA 08/15/98
I spent a month in Europe, and slept comfortably in the couchette of
a train 5 times. The only time it was hard to sleep was a Barcelona to
Sevilla overnight. My door did not lock, and there was robbers on the
train. Fortunately, we were never bothered. I always bring food and water
on a train, it works great.
M. Taylor
Snohomish, WA USA 08/12/98
Took the night train from Munich to Paris. We had adjoining second class
compartments and it was great! The steward really looked after us and
we felt very safe. As a light sleeper I got my doctor to perscribe a sleeping
pill and I had no trouble sleeping. I much prefered the second class sleepers
to the couchettes we had on our last trip. Certianly worth the extra money.
John Krawczyk
McMinnville, Or USA 08/10/98
On German DB 1st class trains, if you're lucky enough, you might get
an empty compartment. That means you can sleep either with the seats fully
extended in the reclining position, or the whole width of a seat. Of course
it's bad manners to do so but when one has been travelling for some time,
sometimes it's necessary. But it's not a good idea if the compartment
is full. Or there is one person coming on board later down the line e.g.
Salzburg to Munich. The guy who was sleeping was on the train from Hegyeshalom(Austrian-Hungarian
border) to Munich, and he pretty much slept between Vienna and Munich.
But I sleep on the train myself, unavoidably, in the reclining position.
First class gives a person plenty of room to do so.
Josh Hanz
Chico, CA USA 08/05/98
My family and I just returned from six weeks in Europe. We took one night train from Venice to Rome. We reserved the entire couchette for the four of us. We are thankful we did this. It was incredibly hot that night in the train, which we found interesting because none of our daytime trains seemed lacking in ventilation.
There was a robbery several couchettes down from us during the night.
Lots of running and yelling. Are these situations always as suspicious
looking as they seem? There seem to be people that witness these things
and know so much about what went on. What started as a bit of an adventure
through the night, ended with rather uncomfortable sleep.
John
MI USA 07/30/98
Would we take a night train from Naples to Bologna again? I don't know.
The sleepers weren't that great, it was unbearably hot and the windows
wouldn't open. We missed dinner, and there was only some food from a cart.
Maybe we got 2 hours of sleep. Still that night easily gets us thinking
about Italy again and makes us want to catch the next plane to Milano,
or Florence, or Venice, or somewhere in Italy.
Leon
Seattle, WA USA 07/26/98
My wife and I took one trip in a couchette from Naples to Venice on our honeymoon. We were the first in the car and grabbed the upper bunks. We kept our money belts on and shoved our packs in an overhang over the door. As an added precaution, we looped the shoulder straps around something so they would be harder to move.
The only problems we had were the heat and two of our compartment-mates opening and closing the window half the night (one was from Naples and didn't mind the heat, the other wanted the ventilation).
The great part was arriving in Venice to see the sunrise and be first
in line for getting a hotel!
Bryan Hilterbrand
Salt Lake City, UT USA 07/21/98
For low-budget backpacker types like me, night trains were the ideal way to get a cheap night's sleep and maximize the time available for sightseeing. Night trains in Eastern Europe, where I traveled, are not very fancy (remnants of the Soviet occupation era). But, even as a solo female traveler, I didn't have any problems with safety during six weeks of traveling.
Always book a couchette, lock the compartment door at all times, and keep your moneybelt on. Don't be afraid to ask the conductor if you can switch compartments if you're afraid for your safety.
On a train from Vienna to Budapest, I avoided sharing a compartment with a truly scary man, and instead spent the night safely locked in with a friendly and harmless nun.
In Eastern Europe, you will be woken up at every border crossing. At
some borders, you will get a visit from border control of the country
you're leaving as well as the country you're entering. It makes for a
sleepless night, but the energy of being in a new city the next morning
seems to kick in and keep me from being tired when I arrive!
J.V. Siegel
Los Angeles, CA USA 07/16/98
On our honeymoon to Europe in 1996, my husband and I took three night trains; from Rome to Nice, from Marseille to Colmar, and from Amsterdam to Paris. We reserved couchettes each time, and with our luggage chained together and attached to the car, we slept peacefully.
Get to the train early and take the top bunks. You'll be more comfortable. Change clothes in the morning, and sleep with your money belt ON!
Aside from the occasional awakenings when we passed the borders, it was pretty calm and we had no problems. Keeping your toothbrush and toiletries handy is important.
The night train to Paris ended up being a great deal all the way around.
We arrived early in the morning and were first in line at the tourist
office to get our rooms booked. By the time we came out, I think the wait
was like an hour. Night trains are great time saver and with all the day
trains you'll be taking, you won't miss the scenery a bit!
Jodi
Chicago, IL USA 07/05/98
I have always enjoyed traveling on overnight trains — although it can
be warm, and a little bit noisy, where else can you talk with a Mexican
physician, and her daughter who had been expelled from Budapest? My wife
and I feel that the stories and the people more than make up for the problems.
Columbus, OH USA 07/04/98
I love using overnight trains in Europe. Be sure to reserve a private
sleeping compartment and make sure the door is securely locked. We have
traveled from Paris to Nice, Paris to Rome, and Naples to Venice without
undesirable incidents. We always take along snacks and a bottle of wine
for a cozy evening picnic. Can't wait to do it again..
Karen
Lubbock, TX USA 06/29/98
In 1997, my husband and I took an overnight train from Vienna to Warsaw. After a week on Swiss and Austrian trains, it was a bit of culture shock, but we had reserved a private sleeping compartment which was pretty comfortable and (we thought) secure. We locked the door and surprisingly went right to sleep. At around 2 am, we woke to find two men going through our belongings. They either had a key to the compartment or picked the lock.
Luckily we didn't lose anything, but a Polish lady in the next compartment
lost everything — cash, passport, etc. We also left the window open since
it was quite warm and the train was not air conditioned. We learned later
from a friend in Warsaw that thieves stand on the platforms during the
short stops at night and use poles with hooks to remove visible items.
On the return trip, we secured the door with a piece of rope and left
the window closed. It was a bit steamy...but secure!
Darleen
San Dimas, CA USA 06/29/98
Don't even think about it without reserving a couchette in advance. We bought our ticket in Avignon to head to Venice, were told we didn't need a reservation for an overnight sleeping compartment, and spent an uncomfortable night sharing a compartment with a strange soul we nicknamed "The Grim Reaper," as he was dressed in a huge black cloak, hood and all. Finally passed out in the wee hours with the help of some nice gas from our thief friends on the train. Thankfully all our important stuff was on our bodies and nothing irreplaceable was taken.
On our next overnight ride, from Genoa to Paris, we managed to get a couchette — too bad the train caught fire somewhere around 3 am, and we arrived in Paris 6 hours later than originally planned.
I wouldn't change a thing about that trip and laugh out loud when recalling
those random eves on the rails. Just keep in mind when doing your planning
that the itineraries that seem so efficient at home have nothing to do
with the realities you will encounter. If you have trouble sleeping at
home, it'll be even worse on a night train in a foreign country. Just
go with it...and never expect anything to work out just as you had "planned!"
Alice
new york, ny USA 06/17/98
My wife and I had a sleeper compartment on the overnight train from Munich to Paris. Unfortunately, the train was forced to stop every hour or so due to problems with the tracks. Plus, the sleeper car was directly behind the engine, and when crossing borders, each country uses its own engine. That's a lot of noise a 3 a.m.
It was rather warm, and we had to sleep with the window halfway open. Security was good — you couldn't get into the sleeper car unless you had a ticket, and the doors at both ends were locked.
I recommend packing a change of clothes and toiletries in your daybag.
It's tough to rummage around in your suitcase in a little sleeper compartment.
And keep in mind that you often arrive in your destination city around
8 or 9 a.m., but you can't usually check into your hotel until lunchtime,
so you either have to store your bags at the train station or at the hotel.
Nick Ignatiev
Houston, TX USA 06/16/98
My husband and I just returned from a trip to Europe and we rode the
Orient Express one night from Vienna to Paris. We had a sleeping berth,
however, I did not sleep at all even though I had earplugs. I was too
hot on the top bunk and everytime another train passed it made a loud
swoosh sound. It is a nice train and we had a steward and stewardess who
served us our meals in the compartment and one kept watch all night to
make sure we were safe. So, I would recommend that train if you think
you can sleep with all the motion. 6/16
B. J. Correu
Richardson, Tx. USA 06/16/98
We just returned from Europe and had planned to sleep on trains two
nights, but when we tried to make reservations for the Oslo-Bergen overnight
(4 days ahead of time) the clerk just laughed and said nothing was available,
they had all been reserved long before. In general we were greatly disappointed
in the inefficiencies of the Norwegian train stations and clerks (everyone
in line with us was expressing the same sentiment, and no, not all clerks
speak English). The first part of our trip had been in Italy, and although
the trains were always late, at least we were able to follow the itinerary
we had planned.
Phoenix, AZ USA 06/14/98
I have taken night trains twice and swore after the first time (Paris
to Rome) that I would never do it again! However, on my second trip my
hsuband convinced me that we would be able to see and do a lot more if
we took the overnight train from Munich to Prague, rather than waste a
day on board. I hesitantly agreed, knowing that there would only be 2
in our couchette this time, rather than the 6 fellow tour members that
I bunked with prior. Still a mistake! We were awoken twice by the conductors
who insisted on stamping our passports, and the entire train was in deplorable
condition (it was a Soviet-era model). Needless to say, I arrived in Prague
looking like an unmade bed and feeling like I had a hangover. My suggestion
is that if you're like me (a "Private Benjamin" type), you carefully weigh
what is most important to you: saving time and money or sleeping soundly
and comfortably with creature comforts like potable water. I'll spend
money any day to get a good night's sleep in a place with hot running
water!
Ellicott City, MD USA 06/14/98
My husband and I just spent a month in Europe traveling on a lst-class
Europass. We took two overnight trips — Hamburg to Paris and Paris to Munich.
Our trips started after 7 pm and therefore each only used up one travel
day on our pass. Then we were able to use the train for side trips the
following day — still on the same pass day. Both experiences were great — we
slept soundly and saved the price of a hotel room. Travel by train was
EASY for two seniors with no language except English. This was our second
trip using Europasses but won't be our last!
mulberry, fl USA 06/13/98
For overnight trains I highly recommend earplugs. You may have to share your compartment with a snorer, and there are plenty of other noises throughout the night both inside and outside the train to keep you awake.
Be sure to place your bags as far away from the door as possible. My four girlfriends and I had a scary experience when we awoke in the morning to find that my newly purchased leather bag had been rummaged through and cash and a watch stolen. Don't count on the noise of the door opening to wake you up, even on a restless night — these are seasoned pickpockets who know how to maneuver.
It's not too expensive to buy the extra seats or berths in the compartment
to give you and your travel partners more sleeping space and peace of
mind — especially for women. If you choose a regular compartment, just
pull the seats out to have a level sleeping surface. It's not as comfortable
as a couchette, but less expensive if you're on a tight budget.
Beka Browning
New York, NY USA 06/13/98
For sound sleepers only! I would suggest that you take the overnight
only if you are confident in your mobile sleeping skills — can you sleep
in a plane or car? And keep in mind that most Europeans seem to sleep
about four hours a night and spend the rest of the time either smoking
or talking. Two times out of three you'll arrive at your destination bleary-eyed
and desperate for the nearest hotel.
TB
USA 06/10/98
My advice is what NOT to do if you want sleep on a train: Do not take
the "hotel train," otherwise known as the CityNightLine, which I took
from Vienna to Koln. This train is billed as having nothing but sleeping
berths, and there is a surcharge for each seat. However, the only difference
between the hotel train and a regular train is that the hotel train seats
are made entirely of metal (yes, no padding), and tilt part way back — very
uncomfortable, and sound sleep was not possible.
Pete Dumas
Plano, TX USA 06/08/98
On the night train I took from Vienna to Prague, I never fully fell
asleep. I was too worried that I would not be able to wake up at 5 am
when the train arrived. (I did not know that the conductor will wake you.)
Rick
USA 06/07/98
Never again. And I'm a pretty good sleeper. There's too much noise!
Especially when the train passes another going in the opposite direction.
Anne
Phoenix, AZ USA 06/05/98
I use "The Jammer," a small, light rubber wedge that seals train doors
from the inside. I got mine very cheap from a travel accessories catalog.
Matt
Minneapolis, MN USA 06/04/98
In my 3 months in Europe I slept 6-8 nights in couchettes — a good way
to conserve both time and money. They were always full with 6 people,
but I slept well even with the coupling and uncoupling of cars, etc. Kept
my money belt on and ALWAYS reserved the top bunk. Being a 50+-year-old
female, I always felt safer being so "out-of-reach." Never had any trouble
(except one compartment-mate with horrific BO).
USA 06/03/98
On our honeymoon in France, my husband and I decided at the last minute
to take the train from Nice to Paris. The only train going there was a
night train, but it was too late for reservations, and all the TGV's were
booked. So the ticket agent told us that once on board we could reserve
a couchette through the conductor. We did and since the train was not
full the conductor gave us a four-berth room. Unfortunately this train
was not as smooth riding as a TGV and my husband was motion sick the entire
ride. When we got back to Paris he went to the nearest restroom, paid
his 5 francs and went and threw up. It didn't bother me until we got into
a hotel room and I laid down on the bed, and I could still feel the swaying
of the train. It was an experience we'll not soon forget. So remember
if you are taking a night train, and it's not a TGV, you may want to take
some motion sickness pills first.
heather zaleski
phoenix, az USA 06/02/98
I have been sleeping on trains since my college summer in Europe in 1982. This is a great way to see places far apart when you don't want to waste a precious vacation day just getting to your destination. Some tips for fellow night-train travelers:
1) You saved money on the hotel — so book a couchette. They often sleep 6, so if there are 4 of you traveling together, pay a little extra and reserve the entire compartment. Then you can shove all your luggage on the upper bunks and sleep comfortably on the remaining 4.
2) At your local hardware store, buy a lightweight 3-foot chain and padlock for each traveler (have the padlocks keyed the same). You're ready to chain your luggage together and through the upper supports of the train bunks. You'll sleep knowing your luggage won't disappear. Don't get the cheapo luggage locks that come with wimpy keys.
3) If you want your passport to show you've really traveled, ask the border guards to stamp it when you pass through different countries. On night trains, the conductor holds it for you, so ask them to stamp it for you too.
4) If you're traveling in Central Europe, you may want to bring along a roll of soft toilet paper — some of the stuff on trains is sandpaper! It's a comfort that won't add additional weight to your luggage!
5) If you're a light sleeper or a confirmed snorer, take a nighttime cold tablet to help you fall asleep and keep you uncongested. Or bring some Breathe-Right strips and save your sleeping companions the misery of listening to you all night.
Sleep tight, and have a great time in Europe!
Nancy Gresl
Milwaukee, WI USA 06/02/98
My wife and I honeymooned in Europe in November and had one mishap on
an overnight train just outside of Mainz, Germany. This was my fourth
time in Europe and I've always been cautious, making sure that my belongings
were secure. But this time my wife and I both removed our money belts — dumb
move. I awoke when a stranger momentarily entered our compartment, but
didn't think much of it. But soon we both awoke to find our moneybelts
open and empty — we'd been robbed! Five minutes later we arrived in the
Mainz train station and I bolted off the train yelling for help, and soon
a suspect with $280 in US $20 bills (exactly what had been taken from
us) was apprehended. Four hours later we had our money back and were on
our way. We were lucky. Point is, don't ever feel so comfortable that
you think you can even momentarily break the most basic rules of common
sense.
Alan McLendon
Gulf Breeze, FL USA 06/02/98
I went from Brussels to Berlin with no problem. If traveling with someone, padlock your bags together. Stealing 1 bag is easy. Stealing 2 bags padlocked together is close to impossible.
I am a light sleeper and had trouble falling asleep. My wife, however,
is a deep sleeper, and was asleep before the train left Brussels' city
limits!
Dan Pohl
NJ USA 06/01/98
I've never had a problem sleeping on overnight trains in Europe. Then
again, I like to stay up late and slam some beer with the partying Europeans
on the trains. With my moneybelt tucked deep into my underwear and a good
buzz on, I sleep just fine!
Bob Curtis
North Little Rock, AR USA 05/30/98
With night trains I may have missed some of the countryside, but I saved
time, got further, and saw more. But you need to be careful. I slept with
one foot on the door, with my pack under my head as a pillow, and everything
important in my money belt. When full they can be claustrophobic.
Ann
south bend, IN USA 05/28/98
I've taken an ovenight in 1st class from Milan to Paris. It was an experience
that was lacking in most everything I thought it would have. The beds
are short — if you're over 6' tall, to say it's cramped is putting it mildly.
And due to all the bumps and noise, I couldn't sleep except in small catnaps.
Jim Cunningham
USA 05/11/98