Archive: Virgin Hilltowns
While the tourists smother San Gimignano and Assisi, countless hill towns throughout the Mediterranean world are ignored, simply going through just another century with no tourism. What are your untouristy favorites?
Check out the distillation below of past comments through April 2003.
Civita di Bagnoregio
I just spotted a piece in the NY Times about Civita:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/02/09/international/europe/09ITAL.html
Don S
London, USA 02/09/04
Seminara, Reggio Calabria
In July of 2003 i visited a very interesting and charming mountain village (347 mt a.s.l.) called Seminara. Pop. 3956. It's located near the Plain of Gioia Tauro 7 km from the town of Palmi on Reggio Calabria's Costa viola.
Seminara is an ancient village with a fasinating and rich history. Once equipped with strong walls, in the 16th century it became the most important and most populated town in Calabria. In the 1500's the town lived its golden age, to such an extent that it has been compared to the Renaissance Tuscan cities.
At that time, it had eight monasteries, thirty-three churches, a hospital, a "Monte di Pieta'" (State pawnshop), and also sixteen financial institutions, a synagogue, three cultural academies and important silk, skin and oil producing industries. As a result, it became the chosen destination of many painters, sculptors and men of letters who left many signs of their presence. The earthquakes in 1783 and 1908 razed the town to the ground. It was rebuilt according to the old city plan although it lost its most characteristic architectural treasures. However, it still has the ruins of the Mezzatesta Castle and it has the largest number of Calabrian art works of the 16th century. The many altar-pieces, statues, bas-reliefs and coats of arms recall its glorious past.
Today, the village is famous for its beautiful ceramics. The Seminaresi handed down this craft from father to son, generation after generation. Rich in tradition, this village explodes to 30,000+ in July and August when it's beautiful Piazza Vittorio Emmanuel II entertains it's inhabitants with the feast of the Black Madonna (Madonna dei Poveri) at the Maria SS. Addolorata Basilicata. Seminara still retains the customs and flavors that make it so unique and a must see for all yearn for a truly off the beaten path travel experience.
michele castaldo
New York City, NY USA 02/06/04
Bova, the depths of southern
Italy
I recently headed south with a long lost friend into the depths of southern
italy to Bova, a 300-person town on the top of a mountain. It's in the
middle of the Aspromonte mountains, with spectacular views of Sicily and
Mount Etna - well at least when we hadn't disappeared in a cloud. A very
organic experience for lack of better description, a constant state of
mild drunkeness or intense coffee highs, due to unrefusable southern hospitality
and an excess of homemade wine!
We went to a ghost town (Roghudi
Vecchio), where the whole town was uprooted and moved to a newly built
modern town with the same name along the coast--all in place of fixing
the problems that existed there. We went mushroom hunting with a friendly
local lady and then created a mushroom risotto. We made this huge mushroom-
well you cut it and bread it, fried it! it had the texture almost of a
meat, but much more tender, and way way tastier, it was divine! Best of
all, I learnt to weave baskets in the traditional style. It was so cool,
Mimmo from Bova taught me. We also visited a local organic bergamot farm
"il bergamotto" in the village of Amendolea, which was really fascinating
as well! We did some excellent exploring, and basically got lost in this
small but intricate world of Bova on the top of a mountain.
charlie
brisbane, australia 01/30/04
Almenno San Bartolomeo, Italy
The area northwest of Bergamo has several villages and lovely hillsides
with spectacular views. We went to visit my wife's relatives, third or fourth
cousins. But there was more to see than relatives. Our cousins showed us
two bridges and an ancient church that date back to the time of Christ.
Bergamo has a walled city on a hill, the "citi alta" or upper city that
can be explored in a morning. The cathedral in the upper city of Bergamo
doesn't appear in most guidebooks, but is quite beautiful. The area is near
the lakes district as well. The village of Roncola on the mountain overlooking
Bergamo provides a marvellous view of the Italian alps, the lakes, and on
a clear day, Milan.
This is also a shameless promotion for a wonderful restaurant owned by my wife's grandfather's brother's granddaughter's family. It is Restaurante da Ivan (Ivan's Restaurant) in Almeno San Barolomeo, a village near Bergamo, Italy. It is family owned and operated, the two sons are taking over more and more of the cooking from Mom and Dad. Their specialty is seafood, and their pizza is fantastic. It is found on Via Barlino, 62; 24030 Almeno San Bartolomeo, about a half hour's drive northwest of Bergamo. The phone is 035640131. They do take reservations, It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Being as how we are "long lost relatives from America" we had to eat there all of the three days we stayed in the area. This was unquestionably the best food we had in Italy.
Wes
Bellingham, WA USA 09/24/03
Roghudi, southern Italy
This is a ghost town in Calabria, in southern Italy. My eye was caught by
a picture of Roghudi in a newspaper: I saw it and loved it. It showed a
lovely and peaceful place. But the little village is abandoned! Wouldn't
that be the perfect place for a peaceful holiday? It's beautiful nature,
all the rest you need, and culture. I hope somebody is interested enough
to invest in this town. Keep everything intact in its same state, only renewed,
refreshed and restored. Blow a little life into Roghudi again! More people
should enjoy this beautiful piece of earth!
Guus van der Maas
Arnhem, GLD NL 09/19/03
Porrino/Colli, Italy
Porrino and Colli, in the Lazio region and prov. of Frosinone, are hamlets
of Monte San Giovanni Campano. A mere 60 miles, (100 Kilometers) south of
Rome. We have just returned, after three weeks living in Colli. The main
purpose was to trace our ancesstors. These are small sleepy towns with very
little entertainment other then their local festivals that we happened to
hit just right. The towns are old and a lot of remnants from WWll still
remain in the form of ruins of houses and buildings and caves that were
apparently bombed. Some caves in the hillsides are now being used for wine
storage.
John Evangelisti
Lorain, OH USA 09/02/03
Vinci, Italy
Vinci, west of Florence, is wonderfully devoid of tourists. We stopped at
the recomendation of a Roman friend to see the da Vinci museum. Leonardo
da Vinci was born just outside of town, and they have put together a wonderful
display of his inventions, some built on small scale and some full scale.
Except for a handful of German college students also there for the museum,
it was only locals. There are several hotels in town and a few agriturismos
outside.
Katie
Baltimore, Md USA 08/28/03
San Donato, Italy
Try San Donato - just about 15 miles south of Florence. Wonderful town with
an awesome restaraunt - La Topa. Beautiful streets with flowers hanging
from the windows. We stayed at a wonderful Agriturismo about five kilometers
away called Borgo Sicele. I would recommend it to anyone for its beauty,
its comfort, and its price!
Paul Seishas
Sacramento, CA USA 08/04/03
Bevagna, Italy
While it is not exactly virgin and definitely not a hill town, Bevagna is
a remarkable place. I spent several days there in May. It was easy to park,
walking was easy as it is not on a hillside, very quiet at night(we slept
with the windows open) Assissi, Spello, Spoleto, Gubbio, Montefalco, etc
are all easy day trips. The churches, Roman ruins, restaurants, gelato,
cappuccino, and vino were all great. Very untouristy. Il Chiostro di Bevagna
is a great albergo, complete with frescoes from the 1500's. You'll definitely
need a car though.
Brad
USA 07/31/03
Casperia, Italy
We found this wonderful hilltop village Casperia which was recommended by
a few people on this site. After the crowded, touristy places we had stayed
in, we were not sure what to expect. But what a wonderful surprise was La
Torretta B&B, a beautiful 15th century home, run by Maureen and Roberto
and their 2 daughters. The views were wonderful, the surrounding countryside
idyllic, and they gave us an itinerary each day with maps, directions, where
to eat etc. Some days we visited art cities and sometimes we went to small
local villages where we found authentic Italian food and hospitality. We
definitely recommend it. Thank you for the suggestions. They also run cooking
courses; check their web site: www.latorrettabandb.com.
Jeff Smith
Burgess Hill, UK 07/19/03
Orvieto, Italy
Orvieto, near Assisi, is beautiful and historic. I found the most beautiful
hand painted tableware ceramics (pitchers, plates, etc.) in Orvieto. The
store is called "Ceramiche Giacomini", on Piazza Duomo 34, and it is a treasure
trove. Their email is: ceramichegiacomini@virgilio.it. The church there
is georgeous too, and the little twisting cobblestone streets are charming.
Some other travelers told us about some underground tour there which they
really enjoyed, but that is by reservation only.
Maureen Crawford
San Diego, CA USA 07/13/03
Bova and the Graecanic Area (Calabria, Italy)
Bova, on the extreme tip of the Italian boot, is a picturesque town perched
825 meters above sea level, situated in Aspromonte or the "harsh mountain"
National Park. Bova ('Vua' in the Greek Calabrian language) is the doorway
to the Graecanic area, the 'capital town' of the area known as the "Greek
island" of Italy-home to the descendants of the ancient Hellenic settlements
of the Magna Graecia. In Bova you find an intimate tie between the 'Grecanici' people and the rich, savage natural resources of the area in the deep
south.
Other villages of the Graecanic area are: Amendolèa (Amiddalia), Gallicianò (Gaddicianò), Condofuri (Condochuri), Roccaforte del Greco (Vunì), Roghudi (Richùdi), Pentedattilo, Palizzi, Staiti, Brancaleone, Africo, Bova Marina.
In 2002, Bova was recognized as one of the 50 most beautiful small villages
in Italy. Traditions and folklore found in this land bear witness to the
remotest times, the last precious evidence of Hellenic culture. Unearth
links to ancient roots and the Grecanico way of life, a priceless cultural
inheritance snuggled amongst wilderness and wildlife unparalleled in Italy.
Fox
Monterosso al Mare, Italy 07/13/03
Trevi (Umbria)
In Umbria, "the green heart of Italy", the small hill town of Trevi sits
between Assisi and Spoleto. Despite having rich cultural offerings and some
fine restaurants and hotels, it remains relatively undiscovered. The views,
the food, the people--all are superb. It's easily accessible, right off
the main highway.
Joyce Magee
Nanuet, NY USA 07/02/03
Montecatini Alto, Italy
Montecatini Alto, above Montecatini Terme, is superb! Spectacular views
of olive groves and vineyards, and several great outdoor seating coffee/pastry
shops, made this a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. However, San Gimignano
is still our favorite ancient hilltop town, touristy or no. Ciao!
GW Giles
Milton, Fl USA 06/22/03
Ravello, Italy
You must visit Pontone in Southern Italy and just across the valley to the
popular tourist spot of Ravello.It is a place lost in time and gives the
visitor a true taste of a Southern Italian hillside town.Take the short
walk to the Torre dello Ziro to experience the best viepoint on the whole
coast of Amalfi.Then when back in Pontone visit the terrace of the Ristorante
San Giovanni on Via San Maria to experience breathtaking views back to Ravello
Mike Andrews
New York, USA 06/09/03
Murlo, Italy
You have to want to see Murlo (45 min South of Siena, West of Buonconvento
off S2) but once there, it's a beautiful medieval surprise. Wonderfully
presented Etruscan Museum and a few delightful shops. Two lovely, authenic
local restaurants and absolutely no tourists. Worth a journey!
Doug & Lynne Hanson
Clermont, GA USA 05/31/03
Barga, Italy
Visit Barga in the fall. In September and October, the chestnut forests
are spectacular, and the cooler air makes gentle hill walking a breeze.
There are few hotels but some private accommodation is available. An excellent
traditional osteria is Osteria la Mocchia da Lorenzo, just outside of Barga.
Ron Gauld
Aberdeen, Scotland 05/07/03
Distillation: Virgin Hilltowns of Italy
and France ITALY Abruzzi Region
Castelli is perhaps the most famous of the places in the Abruzzi region,
where pottery is made. Atri, NW of Pescara is lovely, and there are many
small towns on the way from Atri to Bisenti to Castelli and beyond that
aren't even on the maps. The beach a few kilomenters north of Pescara
is uncrowded and relaxing.
Altomonte
Altomonte in the province of Cosenza is an extremely old and quaint town.
With a population of 5,000 everyone wants to be a family member. You can
still view the "Il Principe" castle and the tower he ruled from.
The churches date back to the 1100 and some before that. It is the best
to go the second week of August (ferragosto) when the festival is going
on.
Barga
Barga, close to Lucca in northern Tuscany is worth a look if you're in
the area. Still relatively unspoiled, the views of the Garfagnana valley
from the duomo are incredible. We liked the site at www.knowital.com for
some local information and Tuscany accommodation listings.
Casperia
I found the medieval hilltown of Casperia, in Rieti, 40 minutes north
of Rome. I spent a month there at the La Torretta B&B, run by Maureen
and Roberto. They speak perfect English and are wonderful hosts. There
is a bus from Poggio Mirteto, several times during the day, or Roberto
is always available to take you to the station. Casperia has about 200
residents. There are no cars, as the town has narrow cobblestone streets;
cars are parked outside the walls. Maureen and Roberto also act as guides
for special trips, and their daughter Kathleen organizes climbing holidays.
Their web site is www.latorrettabandb.com.
Cavaso - Veneto
A collection of MUST true virgin hilltowns in Northeast Italy are only
about an hour north of Venice near Monte Grappa. My particular favorite
is the small town of Cavaso Del Tomba, accessible only by auto. As far
as I know, this town is only listed on the Michelin Map for Northeast
Italy. The areas around M. Grappa are rich with a brand of Italians who
have witnessed a lot of history. This region, just south of the Alps,
was the battleground for many a war. The US and Nazis duked it out in
many of these towns during WWII. Go for a strolls and you ll find lots
of caves and bunkers lining the hills. Austrians once ruled this region
as well, so many of the pure Italians in this area might sport a red beard
or have a tiny bit of Austrian blood (not that they will admit to it).
Civitella in Val di Chiana
For a real change of pace, away from the throngs of tourists, I heartily
recommend a visit to the hilltop village of Civitella in Val di Chiana.
The hill is dominated by a 13th century fortress, which can be toured
at your leisure. It was partially destroyed, not by the ravages of time,
but by bombing by a US aircraft in WWII. Several of the residents, including
children, were lined up and shot by the Nazis for supposed collaboration
with the allies. Their graves and a memorial are in a cemetery at the
base of the hill along the road leading into town. The village takes on
a real charm after dark. The entire fortress is beautifully lit and is
visible for many miles around. There is a wonderful restaurant at the
top of the stairs leading from the lower walls of the village. A wonderful
meal and a glass of local wine while admiring the view makes this side
trip well worth while.
Civitella in Val di Chiana is a beautiful hill town minutes from Arezzo, yet a well-kept secret as far as most tourists are concerned. There are no hotels in town, but there are two bars. One is a "Sandy's" clone in the main piazetta. It serves great pizza and wine, but if you really want to go local you'll go to the bar in the "upstairs" piazza, have a beer or amaretto, and watch the locals play cards. This is NOT your average poker get-together! You'll swear a fight is about to break out every hand, but in fact they are just doing the Italian version of discussing the previous hand!
Corciano
Visit the beautiful medieval hill town of Corciano about 7km from Perugia
in Italy. Especially interesting is the AGOSTO CORCIANESE - Corciano Festival
in August, Medieval pagentry and art exhibitions!
Cortona
When you first enter the town at Piazza Garibaldi the view of the Chianti
Valley below is breathtaking. Walk from the beginning of town all the
way to the top. It is a very steep walk (I cannot stress this enough)
but well worth it for the views. Go into the travel agency on Via Nationale
and ask them to tell you some highlights to look for (they speak English).
Go into Bar Unica and have a cappucino.
Our hotel in Cortona was the Hotel Italia. For 72 euros per night we got
a large room with all amenities: tv, phone, a/c, full bath with hairdryer,
breakfast, and a room with a stunning view of the Tuscan countryside.
Near Cortona
Try the towns and hillsides around Cortona: Terontola, Castiglione del
Lago, places a little further south or perhaps east. Take a look at the
battlefield where Hannibal wiped out the Roman army, over by the lake.
American and German tourists are everywhere, but all you have to do is
open your eyes.
Eastern Italy
Hill towns on the east side of Italy are much neglected--therefore tourist-free.
Pieve Favera, which I can't find on any map, is truly medieval. Castelluccia
is on a hill in the Sybilline Mountains. Beneath it, both to the north
and the south are lentil fields, where exceptionally small and tasty lentils
are grown. Great lentil soup can be had a short distance south of the
crest of the road. You can also get great local wine and deep-fried lamb
chops there.
Gallena
I have had the pleasure of spending a year in Gallena (pop. 80), Italy,
assisting my boyfriend on his fresco project. This 5-year-long project
is truly a feat: the entire inside of the local church is frescoed wall
to wall. So beautiful. It was completed October 2000. 350 meters above
sea level, Gallena is in the region of Tuscany and is covered with grape
vines and olive trees. It's amazing. Nearby Pietrasanta is a marble capital
of the world, and is famous for the road Michelangelo built through here
to get up to Mount Altissimo.
Gubbio
While based in Perugia,the heart of Umbria for a few days, my wife and
I decided to drive to Gubbio. The drive was breath taking, especially
around the huge manmade lake. Gubbio is built differently from most of
the other hill towns, easy to park and most importantly not a problem
to walk around in. An added treat was the great food we ate while visiting
there! It is worth the trip to get there.
L'Aquila
We wanted to visit our "roots" in the Abruzzi region. We used
the charming city of L'Aquila as our homebase. It's a small city with
a daily open air market, great food and friendly people (skip the restaurant
Tre Marie the only overpriced, unfriendly place in our whole three weeks).
We took day trips to Pacentro, Bolognano, Campo Imperatore, Sulmona and
Scano. These towns are virtually untouched by tourists and just wonderful.
One of our best finds was a little restaurant run by a husband and wife
just outside of San Stefano. Nel Bosco di Bistorco. The owner and his
wife fed us some of the most delicious food we've ever eaten for two hours
for about $17 each.
Le Marche
I studied and lived in Macerata, Italy for 3 months, and I definitely
think it is one of the virgin hilltowns of bella Italia. Devoid of tourists,
Macerata is a charming hill town located in the heart of Le Marche region
(a pretty tourist-free location as well, with such charming cities as
Urbino and Ascoli Piceno) whose claim to fame is its summer Opera festival
at the gaming-center-turned-opera-house, the Sferisterio.
Macerata
Macerata, on the hills of Le Marche, wonderfully intimate inside its medieval
walls, is full of music (Opera-festival and Jazz), culture (University
and Theatre), nightlife. Visit the website : www.maceratagallery.it
Marcialla
A town about 20 minutes off the main road halfway between Florence and
Siena, near Poggibonsi and Tavarnelle, only the best maps show Marcialla.
There's nothing to see or do, just hang out in the town "square"
by the church and watch the town go by. Then eat at Il Frantoio for the
best, cheapest dinner of your life (try the ribollita and gnocchi puttanesca).
If you need a place to stay, try Ripa Buia, about 500 yards down the hill
on the back side of town. (Book through www.initaly.com or call directly
for a cheaper rate: 0571-660106 and talk to Bruna, but she speaks only
limited English).
Maresca
The Tuscan hill town of Maresca, just north of Firenze is 800 m in altitude.
It's a well-kept, beautiful little town, with picturesque views, a bubbling
stream, manicured gardens and homes, and a great little restaurant where
the cook comes out to take your order, then later thanks you for eating
at his place. We thought we'd died and gone to heaven after the first
bite. All you need is there: pharmacy, grocery, ATM, gelato.
Montalcino
With fabulous views over the Val D'Orcia, the locals of Montalcino (despite
its wealth) still carry on the way they have done for centuries. With
a little patience you can join in the rhythms of the day and absorb some
real life in the Tuscan Hills! To be really informed before your trip
you could read "Vanilla Beans and Brodo" by Isabella Dusi.
Bevagna
In Umbria take a look at Bevagna, it's absolutely charming. Try and fit
in a visit to Spoleto. It's probably better to avoid the Festival of the
2 Worlds in July, but it is such a surprisingly unspoiled place. Frescoes
in the Duomo are by Lippi(s), Senior and Junior.
Montasola
We liked Montasola in the Sabine Hills, north of Rome, very much. There
is a wonderful 16th-century palazzo, Montepiano, where you can stay in
one of the well-appointed and beautifully decorated apartments with magnificent
views of the countryside and access to a secluded contemplative garden.
If you wish to relax and enjoy a quiet few days in beautiful surroundings,
then this is the spot for you.
Montepulciano
The largest hill town that wasn't completely mobbed by tourists was Montepulciano.
It's lovely, and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to explore. We
spent a wonderful afternoon wandering from one cellar to another, wine
tasting. Some of the most incredible views of Tuscany are from Montepulciano.
To find other villages just drive to the next hill! You can see all the
old city buildings rising up wherever you turn in the Chianti region.
For example-- Colle val D'Elsa (famous for it's crystal), Badia, and Barberino
val D'Elsa. I stayed in a fabulous two bedroom apt. there for a week with
a very reasonable price. If you're interested, you can e-mail the son
of the family Giovanni Bardotti, at bardotti@sparc20.ftbcc.it.
Panzano
Maybe not totally "virgin," but when staying in the virgin hilltowns
(as we did in a nameless village between Greve and Radda), Panzano (on
the SS222) has infinitely more charm than Greve, and offers the only market
open on a Sunday morning in the area. If you're renting a cottage in the
Strada Del Chianti, it pays to know where you can find fresh food. Also
open Sunday mornings in Panzano: Bakery, coffee/espresso bar (the only
place to get milk, apparently, and they are willing to sell it to you
if you ask), and an AMAZING old-fashioned gelataria. There is also a lovely
trattoria near the hillside with stunning views. Parking in town is a
tad tricky but many people just park along the road for the market.
Perinaldo
We absolutely fell in love with lovely Perinaldo and the people (800 residents).
Our house opened directly onto a piazza containing the main church of
the village. There are two restaurants, two bars, two pastry/grocery store,
and one all purpose store. The bells of the church ring the hours and
the views are breathtaking; looking 5 to 10 miles away, one can see the
Ligurian Sea at Vallecrosia.
Pitigliano
If you are staying a night in Orvieto, which I recommend, go west one
hour to Pitigliano. A marvelous hilltown, where you can actually get a
local Kosher wine. Known historically as Little Jerusalem, this little
town has extraordinary charm.
Lecchi in Chianti (near Rada)
After climbing down the steep hills of a vineyard, and through small woods
at the bottom of the valley, we found a clear spring-fed stream. We sunned
ourselves on the rocks, with the beer and wine chilling in the water.
It was like an Etruscan grotto, and I expected primitive gods were watching.
Rada & Caserta Vecchia
Though not "undiscovered," we found Rada in Chianti to be a
charming little hill town, lovely setting, without an American tourist
in sight! We gleefully wandered the streets, ducking into wine shops,
looking at the flower boxes in all the windows...very cute town.
Another place we enjoyed is north of Naples, near the Palace of Caserta--the old "hill town" of Caserta Vecchia. We drove up the narrow streets to the top of the hill, into the very top of the town and strolled around. Not a single tourist there; very charming and medieval. There is a little-known colosseum nearby, Santa Maria Capua Vetere, which is actually better preserved than the one in Rome; you can roam the series of tunnels beneath it.
Sabine Hills
An untouristy favorite spot to visit is the Sabine Hills outside of Rome
on the way to Umbria. A virgin territory with spectacular unspoiled hilltop
towns, strategically located for classical excursions, yet passed by.
The true Italy survives here with authentic products not in tourist bottles,
like the straight-from-the-mill olive oil with DOP recognition.
Like a magnet, I am drawn to the Italian countryside of Sabina, which is a region just north of Rome. We stayed at the Villa Vallerosa, and our English-speaking hostess Luciann Pancera did not disappoint. Besides her tastefully decorated apartments, she has a wonderful sense of humor, is a fountain of information, delightful to be with, and she's a great chef. Drop her a line at her by email valrosa@fabaris.it. You'll have a vacation unlike any other!
We were guests at the Villa Vallerosa, a lovely inn on a working farm with magnificent views. At every opportunity we were generously offered the farm's fresh produce of the day--a couple of eggs from the hen house, apples, peaches and apricots from the orchard, delicious homemade ricotta. Each day, Luciana, the well-informed English-speaking proprietress, helped us plan our itinerary, making suggestions and providing directions for driving.
The area is dotted with unspoiled walled medieval hilltop towns. We visited the ancient abbey of Vescovio and the nearby excavation of a Roman forum, attended a costume festival in the pretty hilltop village of Roccantica, sat for hours in an outdoor café in Stimigliano enjoying the breathtaking view of the serpentine Tiber in the valley below, observed local women do their wash in the communal laundry basin at Poggio Catino, and watched the sunset paint the ancient castle of Rochetta gold. At the Old Oak trattoria in Selci, the owner Giusseppe served us the best brick-oven-baked pizza ever. In the town square of Montasola, so high up that on a clear day you can see the cupola of Rome's St. Peter's cathedral in the distance, we had a delectable porcini dish prepared by the proprietor Giancarlo from mushrooms he had picked in the woods earlier that day. At Il Pogietto (in the vicinity of Poggio Mirteto) we dined family-style with a wonderful group of locals.
Casperia
Having returned to Sabina again this year, I found it even more wonderful
than before. Staying at La Torretta in Casperia, Italia, was just magic.
I am already planning my next trip there and know that Casperia really
is Italy's best kept secret.
San Gimignano
We spent 2 nights in a wonderful room at the Bel Sogourno Hotel,with an
incredible view over quintessential Tuscany. The food at the hotel and,
even more so, at the Hotel Cisterne up the street, was sublime. The gelateria
in the square, our favorite. San Gimignano has Italy's most popular gelato
in the Piazza del Cisterna - they won a nationwide contest.
Santa Fiore
Complete with medieval architecture and nothing more than a few restaurants,
cafe/bars and shops, Santa Fiore town feels empty, but in a romantic way.
Go to the town's south-facing edge and get a breathtaking view of the
valley below. Stay the night and have an unbelievably delicious and cheap
meal at the only restaurant in town. No matter when you go, they'll always
have room for you. Santa Fiore is not easy to get to: no train tracks
go through those mountains. Judging by the one winding road that leads
there, buses seem unlikely as well. While I drove by car this time, I
think the best option would be hitching from the nearest train station
(somewhere halfway between Orvieto and Siena). This would better prepare
the soul for what's to follow.
Sinalunga
In Tuscany, we stayed in delightful Sinalunga. The lower town (New) had
a great restaurant in a small hotel on the main road up to the old town.
At the top of the hill in the old town, the local men played bocce ball
every night. The play was extremely competitive. We spent almost every
night watching them.
Sovana
Sovana is a wonderful, tiny village near the Tuscan border with Lazio.
One end of the one street in town is a ruined castle; the other end is
a Romanesque cathedral with an 8th c. door frame. For you church history
fans, Hildebrand (Pope Gregory VII) was born here and the house still
stands! Nearby are Etruscan necropoli. The one small hotel has an excellent
restaurant, which attracts Roman day visitors for dinner. It is off the
main tourist drag, but worked well as a base for exploring Etruscan sites
(Vulci, Tarquinia etc.)
Pienza & Spello
In southern Tuscany (around Montalcino), stop in Pienza. The town is quite
charming, and just about every house has lovely pots of red and pink geraniums.
Another wonderful stopover was Spello. Not many tourists (no doubt because
of the steep hills) and some really fine shops featuring items by local
artisans.
Tavarnelle
We stayed a week in Tavarnelle, a delightful town halfway between Siena
and Florence, perfectly located for day trips to all of the Tuscan hilltowns.
Be sure to dine at Antico Borgo in town--incredible food and value, also
a connected immaculate 2-star hotel.
Perugia: cooking and wine tour
The cooking class we took was outside of Perugia with an Italian chef
(Tita) and an American translator/coordinator (Nonie) who has lived there
since mid 70s. Great class at the chef's home where we learned several
recipes that were impressive and relatively easy to prepare (and then
got to eat the results!). Nonie's contact info is nonie87@hotmail.com.
A one-day wine tour with Lorenzo Gatteschi was also a great time. He picked us up at our hotel (didn't want to drive after too much sampling) and took us to three different wineries (ranging from large to small) in the Chianti region and arranged a great lunch at Castellina in Chianti. Lorenzo was very knowledgeable on wine production and the region in general. We were out for a full day and the time flew. His contact info is website: www.chiantiservices.com / email: chmania@tin.it.
All our meals were outstanding (and we're big foodies) but highlights were: 13 Gobbi (Florence-boisterous atmosphere with good food), Trattoria 4 Leoni (Florence-great outdoor dining) Osteria Le Logge (Siena-order the malfatti), Il Pozzo (Montereggioni-tortelli con tartufo- best pasta on the trip and worth the stop), Trattoria Toscana (Cortona-fun friendly service and good food), Le Vecchia Muir (San Gimignano-food good, but highlight is the view over the valley). Favorite gelato: Perche Nod (Florence), Vivoli (Florence) and #1 Gelateria Snoopy in Cortona (how can you go wrong with a name like that).
Sant'Albino
In a very little town called Sant'Albino, which is in the province of
Siena, there is a wonderful family run hotel called Villa Ambra. Villa
Ambra, has a beautiful view of the country side and provides tranquil
isolation, while at the same time you can take the bus from the bus stop
right across the street and go to Montepulciano, Pienza, Sinalunga, Chiusi,
Chianciano. It is so easy to get around and it is so close to many wonderful
places such as the Terme of Montepulciano where you can get massage and
body treatments, Sinalunga where you can go dancing, hot springs in places
like Bagni Vignoni, Fosso Bianco, San Filipo, and more. There are also
countless little churches and museums that offer so much to be seen and
enjoyed but so many people overlook them!
Volterra
Etruscan, Roman and medieval--plenty to see and do in Volterra, a town
of alabaster craftsmen, from the Etruscan Museum, to the ruins of the
Roman theater, to just wandering the winding streets, enjoying the ambience
and eating gelato. We were incredibly lucky and found the new Hotel La
Locanda (Via Guarnacci, 24/28) in the medieval town center--a 4 star hotel
at 3 star prices because they are so new that they aren't known yet. 85
euros for a wonderful room, with huge, luxurious bathroom, and breakfast.
FRANCE Bargemon
Bargemon is a small hill town in France above Nice. It is filled with
small villas. The views are breathtaking. Nice is about one hour away,
Cannes about 1.5 hours and St Tropez (the absolute Jewel) about 1.5 hours
drive.
Cahors
We just returned from 2 weeks in a rental house "gite" outside
the southern French town of Cahors. Even with a little rain, the area
is superb and unspoiled by English-speaking tourists. In the summer this
place is overrun with French fleeing Paris, but in the off-season it's
spectacular. Of the hundreds of medieval villages nearby, two stand out.
St. Antonin on the l'Averyon river is what Sarlat would be like without
the tourists! And Cordes, a fortified hilltown, rises from the surrounding
plane.
Manderen
We spent 3 nights in the village of Manderen, France at the Hotel Au Relais
du Chateau Mensberg, where we were the only non-European guests. The village
itself is truly beautiful with the Chateau Mensberg looking down on it
from atop a hill. The Chateau is almost fully restored and worth a visit.
The hotel and its great food are enough to make staying in Manderen a
great experience. The 16-room hotel is fully modern while at the same
time being "local" in nature. The staff speak French and German
but very little English.
Moustiers Sainte Marie
One of the most charming towns I found on a three-month trip last spring
was Moustiers Sainte Marie in France. This town sits on the side of a
mountain, has a beautiful waterfall above and below it and is on the edge
of the Gorges du Verdon.