The charming Peloponnesian port town of Nafplio is small, cozy, and strollable. Though it has plenty of tourism, Nafplio is both elegant and proud, retaining a certain genteel panache from its glory days as the capital of a newly independent Greece. It's a must-see because of its historical importance, its accessibility from Athens, and its handy location as a home base for touring the ancient sites of Epidavros and Mycenae. Nafplio has great pensions, appealing restaurants, a thriving evening scene, inviting beaches nearby, and a good balance of real life and tourist convenience. It's as chic as Athens, but with palm-tree waterfronts and way less graffiti.