Many tourists come to Italy for the past. But Milan is today's Italy, and no trip to this country is complete without visiting it. The nation's fashion, industrial, banking, TV, publishing, and convention capital, Milan is a hardworking, fashion-conscious, time-is-money city of 1.3 million, but also offers tourists plenty to see. As if to make up for its rough, noisy big-city-ness, the Milanesi people are works of art. Window displays are gorgeous, cigarettes are chic, and even the cheese comes gift-wrapped. Yet thankfully, Milan is no more expensive for tourists than other Italian cities.