Standing midway between Africa and Europe, Sicily really is a world unto itself. While part of Italy, it's not quite that simple. Even though (with government encouragement) the siesta is fading out of Italian life, it thrives in Sicily. For tourists, however, the island can be a challenge. Its historic and artistic big shots just don't ring a bell. The folkloric traditions seem to play out only for tour groups. And the place must lead Europe in litter. But there's a workaday charm here. If you like Italy for its people, tempo, and joy of living — rather than for its Botticellis, Guccis, and touristic icons — you'll dig Sicily.