Switzerland's Scenic Rail Journeys
 |
By Rick Steves
Switzerland has one of the world's best rail networks — and many of its tracks run through some of the world's best scenery. While just about any train ride in Switzerland is photogenic, four are aggressively marketed as the most spectacular:
If you're looking for a scenic day enjoying the Alps from the window of your train, and would like to do it in one of Switzerland's unique "panorama cars" (offering huge windows that sweep halfway across the ceiling), these journeys can be great experiences. While they aren't quite as "fantastic with countless highlights" as they're advertised to be (the high lifts in ski areas like the Berner Oberland are much higher and more breathtaking), the trains are a fun way to do some sightseeing while getting from point A to point B.
Golden Pass
The exceptionally picturesque Golden Pass train route cuts a swath diagonally across the pristine center of Switzerland, connecting Zürich with Lake Geneva. Of all the rail journeys in this article, its central location — lacing together many of Switzerland's top sights — makes the Golden Pass the one you're most likely to take.
Orientation
The Golden Pass officially runs between Luzern and Lake Geneva's Montreux, though you could easily connect onward to Zürich or Geneva with standard trains. With less time, you could hone in even more on the very best stretch, from Interlaken to Montreux.
Because the tracks change from narrow to standard gauge to narrow again, two train changes are required (at Interlaken Ost and Zweisimmen). On each stretch, you can choose between the official Golden Pass tourist train with panoramic cars (on the last stretch, you can also opt for a Golden Pass train with vintage rail cars) and more frequent standard trains without panoramic cars.
Because it connects so many knockout Swiss destinations (Luzern, Interlaken, and Lake Geneva), and because it goes in both directions, the Golden Pass can be spliced into your itinerary in many different ways. I'd focus on the best stretch, using it to connect Interlaken and Lake Geneva (3 hours total, including the lovely 2-hour segment from Zweisimmen to Montreux). However you use it, check schedules along the way and plan your layovers strategically to maximize time on the panoramic cars.
Self-Guided Tour
I've described only the best and most visually exciting portion of the Golden Pass journey, the five-hour stretch from Luzern to Lake Geneva, focusing on the crème de la crème — the two hours between Zweisimmen and Montreux (described from north to south).
As you leave Luzern (sit on the right side), you'll go along the lake to Alpnachstad, the starting point for the cogwheel train that climbs to the top of Mount Pilatus (the massive bulk on the right). Then the train follows the Sarner Aa river through farmland, passing through the town of Sarnen. Lake Sarnen comes into view, and the tracks run alongside it. Beyond the end of the lake is the town of Giswil, where the train begins its gradual ascent to Brünig Pass. Eventually the train runs above the beautiful turquoise waters of the Lungernsee reservoir. After passing the resort of Lungern, the train climbs gradually through the forest to the summit station of Brunig-Hasliberg (keep an eye out for fake animal cutouts — lynx, ibex, deer — placed whimsically in the woods at eye-level).
After cresting the pass, the train descends to the Aare river valley, with its sheer cliffs and waterfalls. The arrow-straight river channel, straightened by the ever-efficient Swiss, slices through the broad valley. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle chose the town of Meiringen and nearby Reichenbach Falls as the setting for the death of Sherlock Holmes. The train then follows the river to beautiful Lake Brienz (Brienzersee). From the town of Brienz, a bus runs to the remarkable open-air museum at Ballenberg. Beyond Brienz, the train follows the lakeshore to Interlaken.
As the train pulls out of Interlaken, you cruise along the south bank of Lake Thun (Thunersee). Interlaken ("between the lakes") is situated between the big lakes of Thun and Brienz. Before long, at the town of Spiez, you'll split off and head southwest to Zweisimmen.
Leaving Zweisimmen, you'll roll through Simmental valley, famous among American farmers for its top-end cows. Big farmhouses lie scattered in the lush meadows — an indication that the farmland is good here. The large wooden buildings are typical of Bernese farm architecture: housing the barn, sheltering the crops, and storing agricultural machines, all under one huge roof. Farming is heavily subsidized in Switzerland, and farmers form the strongest economical lobby. Trying to increase their modest income, many farmers have switched to exotic crops (like melons) or animals. Ostriches, yaks, bison, and highland cattle have become a common sight in the Swiss Alps lately.
Between Saanenmoser and Schonried, the train reaches its highest point (about 4,000 feet) and stops at the famous resort town of Gstaad. Although known as a favorite hangout for famous "backpackers," such as Monaco's Princess Caroline, Liz Taylor, Roger Moore, and Roman Polanski, the town does not offer many exciting sights. In winter, the modest ski slopes are not as crowded as the flashy nightspots, as most of the skiers are more into après-ski activities. Sipping their cocktails, they eye each other and discuss the latest trends in ski gear fashion. In summer, Gstaad hosts the Swiss Open tennis, polo, and golf tournaments, as well as music festivals. Violin virtuoso Yehudi Menuhin founded the Menuhin Festival here. While it started as an opportunity for young classical musicians to show their talent, today it's known for high-quality classical concerts.
Just south of Gstaad, you say auf Wiedersehen to the German-speaking part of Switzerland and bonjour to French Switzerland. The mountains are jagged. In fact, many are called dents, the French word for "teeth." With the change in language comes a change in culture and architecture. French-style gray stone houses are replacing half-timbered, woody, German-style chalets. The mountain airstrips — generally made for the Swiss Air Force during World War II — are used today for sightseeing flights around the Alps. The cute village of Rougemont, with its traditional chalets, is famous among the Swiss as place where the wealthy send their girls to boarding school.
Happy cows spend their summers on the Alps, wandering freely and munching the fragrant herbs of these lush alpine meadows. The resulting milk is the secret ingredient for tasty Gruyère cheese. On steep hillsides here, the grass is still cut by hand. It dries in the summer sun, then is collected and stored in the barns to serve as cow salads through the winter.
You might consider interrupting your journey in Château d'Oex, known for its Hot-Air Ballooning Week (last week of January). Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones took off from here on March 1, 1999, and sailed their balloon all the way around the world. Below the train station, Le Chalet restaurant gives insight on Gruyère cheese production.
South of Château d'Oex, the valley narrows to a deep gorge. Up on the hillsides, the damage of the devastating 1999 winter storm "Lothar" can still be seen. Entire forests were leveled, aggravating the already precarious avalanche situation. The trees on the steep slopes stop the snow from sliding down and burying the villages. Once the trees are gone, they don't grow back. Artificial avalanche barriers need to be erected. Landslides and floods have been relatively common in recent years — an unfortunate consequence of uncontrolled deforestation and construction of vacation homes in areas that traditionally served as pastures and forestlands.
The small lake is dammed and used for hydroelectric power. Switzerland makes good use of its Alps for production of electricity. Although it has some nuclear power plants, 60 percent of Switzerland's energy is hydroelectric. The country exports its electricity to France and Italy.
Montbovon is the place to change trains if you're going to Bulle or Gruyères. After the first tunnel, an inscription on the barn to the right welcomes the traveler in the Gruyère region: La Gruyère vous salue.
The train winds its way uphill with more curves and tunnels than before. Passing through the Jaman Tunnel, you're engulfed in nearly two miles of darkness. When you emerge, you're in another world — you've left the feudal Middle Ages and entered the 19th-century belle époque. At the village of Les Avants, one of Switzerland's oldest winter resorts, you catch the first glimpses of Lake Geneva sprawling deep underneath you and begin a steep descent. A series of sharp bends in tunnels takes you out of the mountains and down to lake level.
The architecture has even more of a French flair now that you've entered the "Swiss Riviera." Palm trees, vines, and many sanatoriums indicate this is a warmer climate. You're surrounded by the vineyards of the Lavaux region, famous for its white wine. The view broadens to include the French Alps of Savoy across the lake, the lakeshore of the Swiss Riviera to the west, and the broad Rhône Valley to the east. As you approach Montreux — with its grand hotels — the train meanders its way intimately through private gardens.
Montreux has the only train station in Europe with three different rail gauges: regular, narrow (which you're on), and very skinny (for the Rochers de Naye train, taking sightseers to a nearby peak with views less exciting than those you've just enjoyed). From here, it's an easy train trip to Lausanne, or a quick bus ride or about a one-mile lakefront hike to Château de Chillon.
William Tell Express
The William Tell Express figures it deserves the most famous name in Switzerland. Tell exists only in legend, but his story — being forced to shoot an apple off his son's head because he refused to bow to the Habsburg hat — helped inspire the Swiss to rebel against their Habsburg rulers. The train route crosses the place where the first Swiss cantons pledged "all for one and one for all," the birthplace of the Confoederatio Helvetica in 1291. The trip is half by boat and half by train from Luzern to the Italian-speaking region of Ticino (the towns of Lugano and Locarno).
Don't go out of your way to do this trip. The boat ride is low altitude and more pastoral than thrilling, and the train ride is more interesting as a lesson in Swiss engineering than impressive for its views. (Because the train cuts through the highest mountains inside the Gotthard tunnel, it only reaches 3,600 feet above sea level.)
But if you're connecting Luzern and Italian Switzerland anyway, this route is undeniably scenic. You can book the official "William Tell Express" trip, or simply buy regular tickets with none of the hoopla. I'd save money and gain flexibility by just riding the boat and train on regular departures and skip the much promoted tourist package. Even if you don't buy the package, you can still ride the fancy panoramic train (without a seat reservation) at no extra charge.
Orientation
The William Tell Express begins with a slow boat trip along the length of Lake Luzern from the city of Luzern to Flüelen (2.75 hours). Then a train cuts down into the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino (2 hours). In the town of Bellinzona, you'll choose between two end points: Lugano or Locarno (I prefer Lugano).
The 2.75-hour boat trip from Luzern to Flüelen is lazy and very pretty. As the traditional steamer blows its old-time horn, you glide by idyllic lakeside resort towns and under mighty peaks. If you're in a hurry, you can get a flavor for the lake by doing a shorter round-trip cruise during your time in Luzern. Then take the train to Flüelen (1 hour from Luzern, as opposed to 2.75 hours by boat); you'll see essentially the same scenery as the William Tell "Express" boat, but three times faster.
Whether you ride the boat or train from Luzern, in Flüelen you can join the William Tell Express panoramic train. In Bellinzona, you can either transfer to a nonpanoramic train to Lugano or stay on the same train to Locarno. Another option is to skip Flüelen entirely. Standard regional trains (without panoramic cars) make the Luzern–Lugano trip along the same route hourly in each direction (2.5 hours total).
Self-Guided Tour
Here's what you'll see if you're doing the entire William Tell Express route. If you're taking only the train, skip to that section.
Boat Trip
The boat trip crisscrosses the Vierwaldstättersee (the "Lake of Four Forest Cantons" — or simply "Lake Luzern"). The trip is popular with the older generation of European tourists, who eat and drink their way through the lazy route. On a sunny day, you can sit on the deck and enjoy the mountain views. Survey the boat before you settle on a seat — consider sun, shade, and wind. After two hours, you sail into the canton of Uri, and the landscape gets rougher, the slopes steeper, and the villages fewer and more rustic. This is William Tell country. The legendary Swiss national hero represents the essence of the country's spirit, still felt today: the desire for independence from foreign rule. William Tell has been a popular muse: Schiller wrote a play about him based on ancient Swiss chronicles, and Rossini set the legend to music in an 1829 opera.
Swiss patriots get excited as the boat approaches Rütli. The meadow above is the birthplace of the Swiss Confederation. In 1291, three representatives of the founding cantons met here and swore allegiance to each other, against their oppressive neighbors. More than 700 years later, Switzerland is still a confederation — but now its cantons number 26.
Some hikers choose to disembark at Rütli and head for the mystical meadow marked by a big Swiss flag. Then they follow the Weg der Schweiz (literally "Path of Switzerland"), a trail leading around the lake. Along the way, they contemplate stone signs representing each of the 26 cantons in the order they joined the union. The canton markers are spaced according to each canton's population (the 20-mile-long trail is designed to have exactly 5 millimeters for each Swiss citizen).
Later, the boat stops at Tellskapelle. This 16th-century frescoed chapel marks another legendary spot — where William Tell jumped ship on the way to prison and swam to freedom.
The last stop is Flüelen, where the panoramic train awaits.
Train Trip
From Flüelen, the train climbs from 1,540 feet up to 3,600 feet, at the Gotthard tunnel — the primary north–south transportation route through the Alps. You enter a classic alpine world of snowcapped mountains towering above wild valleys, with narrow gorges carved by eons of angry white water. Wooden chalets, pine forests, and lush meadows dotted with munching cows complete this image of picture-perfect Central Switzerland.
The train tracks are protected from avalanches, landslides, and waterfalls by concrete galleries. Gazing out the window, you'll see some of the greatest accomplishments of Swiss road and railroad engineering. Wassen, marked by its striking chapel, is the climax for trainspotters — with more trains passing per minute than just about anywhere else. First, the chapel is on your right. Then the train loops around the tiny town, and the chapel is on your left. Your train disappears into a tunnel, and when you emerge, the same chapel is still there. The train actually spirals up the slopes. (The William Tell Express package comes with a schematic map that illustrates this.)
Göschenen (where you can transfer to Andermatt, and on to the Glacier Express) is the last stop before the 9.5-mile-long Gotthard tunnel. After 10 minutes of rocketing through darkness, you emerge in a whole different world — a different canton (Ticino, rather than Uri) and language (Italian, rather than German). Since the 13th century — long before this tunnel was built — the Gotthard Pass has been the major trade route over this part of the Alps, connecting northern and southern Europe. The trade continues to rumble under rather than over the pass. These days, heavy truck traffic brings pollution and traffic jams — but little money — to Switzerland. But an ambitious new high-speed train tunnel, currently under construction, will allow shippers to transport merchandise by train and get trucks off the roads.
Welcome to Ticino, Switzerland's botanical garden. While the weather around Lake Luzern is often iffy, Ticino feels Mediterranean — warm and southern — making it a favorite weekend destination for the Swiss. Rather than cuckoo-clock-like chalets, the houses are now plain, square, and made of stone. Instead of conifers, the forests are full of chestnut trees. You'll see vineyards, oleander, and even palm trees. And the upcoming train stops are announced in Italian now: Prossima fermata...
While life seemed almost too good in the pristine and touristic Lake Luzern region, here in the valley of Leventina, the economy is tougher. Unemployment rates are high, young folks have to commute into the cities further south for a job, houses and roads aren't as well maintained, and window boxes no longer come with so many flowers.
As you approach Biasca, notice a modern square building with pebble walls on your left-hand side. This is the information center for the new 30-mile-long Gotthard Base Tunnel, which the longest train tunnel in the world. You'll see industrial buildings and factories around Biasca.
If heading to Lugano, you may need to change trains in Bellinzona. (The official William Tell train continues to Locarno.) The train to Lugano passes the northern tip of Lake Maggiore and goes through a quiet, lush valley lined with picturesque villages and chestnut trees. Enjoy your time in Italian Switzerland!
Bernina Express
The Bernina Express is one of the most exciting train rides through the Swiss Alps thanks to its diversity: starting with the sunny palm-tree ambience of Lugano, getting a taste of Italy along beautiful Lake Como, climbing up and over the twisting Bernina Pass, and seeing mountain towns like Pontresina before finishing up in eastern Switzerland. The little red train with panoramic cars spirals up to 7,380 feet, passing steep mountains and cliffs, glaciers, waterfalls, and a wild, rugged landscape.
Orientation
The Bernina Express combines a bus trip through Italy with a train ride up and into the mountains. The bus begins in Lugano, but soon crosses the border to run along the west side of Italy's Lake Como, eventually arriving at Tirano, where the route continues by train. From Tirano, the train crosses back into Switzerland and twists up the steep mountainside north, mastering a very steep grade on regular tracks (no cogwheels) en route to the most spectacular stretch: over the Bernina Pass. Then the train winds back down the other side, stops in mountain towns (such as Pontresina), and finally deposits you in your choice of towns: Chur, St. Moritz, or Davos.
The route can be reversed (Chur/St. Moritz/Davos to Tirano by train, then bus to Lugano). In fact, this way arguably provides an even better experience: Approaching Pontresina from the north is breathtaking, and it gets even better when the train gets to the Bernina Pass.
The trip is spectacular but long. It helps to break up the journey with an overnight or two in the Pontresina area (see the Pontresina, Samedan, and St. Moritz chapter). The Bernina Express is especially enjoyable in July and August, when you may be able to take an open-top yellow train car between Tirano and St. Moritz (depending on the weather). If you have more time, consider taking a standard regional train along this route (rather than the official Bernina Express train with panoramic cars). That way, you can get off as you like for hiking and exploring (see "Local Train Alternative," later).
Self-Guided Tour
Bernina Express Bus Trip
The bus trip is more scenic than relaxing. Lakes Lugano and Como are almost fjord-like, lined with little Italian getaways. For the best views, sit on the right-hand side (seat numbers don't seem to matter). At first, the bus takes you around Lake Lugano on narrow, windy roads, frequently honking its horn to warn oncoming traffic at tight passages. Leaving Lugano, you'll pass the town of Gandria (fun to visit from Lugano by boat). Shortly after Gandria, you cross the border into Italy (it's a nonevent — bus doesn't stop, no need to show passports). You may notice a change in architecture: Whereas the Swiss love meticulously manicured gardens and painstakingly renovated houses, the Italians take things a bit easier.
Once the bus leaves Lake Lugano, the road broadens and takes you through modern Italian villages before hitting picturesque Lake Como (Lago di Como). Above the town of Menaggio are your first views of the lake. The village across the lake on the right (by the funny hump of land) is the real Bellagio (not the Las Vegas casino). At the nearby village of Dongo, the Italian fascist dictator Mussolini was captured at the end of World War II. Tunnels occasionally disrupt your views, but you can catch glimpses of the lush lakefront. In Gravedona, the street gets narrow enough to make getting the bus through a tight squeeze. Posh private villas and gardens line the street; look for the 12th-century Romanesque Church of Santa Maria del Tiglio. From here, the trip takes you to the tiny harbor town of Domaso. This area is touristy, with plenty of campgrounds, hotels, and swimming pools.
Shortly before noon, the bus stops for 15 minutes in Sorico, at the northern tip of Lake Como. You'll have a chance to use the WC and buy a snack or drink at Bar Pace (Swiss francs accepted). Check out the big photograph behind the bar — George Clooney posing with the bar's proud owner on a 2002 visit. Clooney once owned a grandiose villa on Lake Como.
The bus then crosses the "Pian di Spagna" — famous for a tense standoff between Spanish and Swiss troops during the religious wars of the Counter-Reformation. The trip continues up the fertile Valtellina Valley, where some of northern Italy's white wine is produced. The sunny slopes on the left side are reserved for vineyards, the right lower slopes are for woodland, and the bottom of the valley is occupied by apple plantations. For centuries (from 1512 until Napoleon in 1797) this region belonged to Switzerland's largest canton, Graubünden. This region is Italian today, but many Swiss still think of the local Veltlin wine as their own.
Tirano is our last stop in Italy. In the old town, the bus passes an impressive Renaissance church (Madonna di Tirano, on the left) before arriving at the train station. You have time for lunch and some sightseeing before hopping on the Bernina Express train. Or, to cram in more sightseeing, take an earlier departure on a regional train to gain time for a stopover in the fine town of Poschiavo (described next), and catch your Bernina Express train from there later (confirm times at the Tirano station information window).
If you're interested in the Poschiavo side-trip, see the next section. Otherwise, skip ahead to "Bernina Express Train Trip, Part One."
Poschiavo
From the Poschiavo train station, walk to the main street and turn left, following the signs to Centro and the TI. Cross the river over the pedestrian bridge and continue left, then right, then left, following the Information signs. The main square, Piazza Comunale,Piazza Comunale, is lined with Neoclassical and Neo-Gothic buildings, including an impressive Catholic church (Chiesa di San Vittore Mauro). A church stood here as early as 703, but the building has been rebuilt and renovated several times: The bell tower dates from 1202, and the Baroque front door was carved in the 1700s. Don't miss the little yellow building just before the church, with the intricate wroughtiron grills. Have a peek inside, and don't be startled by the skulls lining the walls — you're standing in front of the local ossuary.
The TI is located in the old Town Hall, below the 12th-century church tower. Pick up a map and the English translation for a short orientation walk: Go from the main square a block north and find the Church of St. Ignazio. It's ironic that this Protestant church's namesake, St. Ignatius of Loyola, was the founder of the militant Jesuit order — whose main purpose was to fight "heretic" Protestants. Notice the inscription above the central pulpit, which is fervently Protestant: Chiesa cristiana vangelica riformata da gli errori e superstizioni umane ("Christian evangelical church, reformed from human errors and superstitions").
Then it's back to the station...you've got a train to catch.
Bernina Express Train Trip, Part One: From Tirano to Pontresina
From Tirano, the train crosses the center of town before climbing up to Brusio. Here the train takes the famous circular viaduct, the only one in the world — an ingenious construction allowing the train to reach higher altitudes without the help of a cogwheel mechanism. As the train twists up, you can see the front and back cars curving in front of and behind you, riding over the viaduct.
Lay back and enjoy the most scenic part of the trip. You'll pass dark old pine forests with needle-and-moss-covered boulders. Chestnut forests, tobacco plantations, and vineyards contribute to the lush tableau. Wildflowers along the track include bright-orange lilies and mountain azaleas. The train slaloms up the steep mountain and offers more and more views of waterfalls, steep cliffs, and the Poschiavo valley and lake far below you.
Thirty minutes after leaving Poschiavo, and before you reach the Bernina Pass, you'll spot the first glacier, Palü Gletscher (behind the little lake of Palüsee on the left). It lies nestled between the peak Piz Varuna (11,330 feet) on the left and the eastern summit of Piz Palü on the right (12,790 feet).
The groaning of the train is a reminder that this is the only train crossing over the Alps without a tunnel. It goes right over the summit. Ospizio Bernina — at the Bernina Pass — marks the highest point of this trip (7,380 feet). You'll see the White Lake (Lago Bianco), whose color comes from the fine rock fragments ground by a glacier, also called "glacier milk." A watershed sign (yellow, reading Wasserscheide) explains that this is a European continental divide: From here, rivers flow either north (toward the Inn, Danube, and finally to the Black Sea) or south (to the Adriatic Sea via the Adda and Po Rivers).
Behind the White Lake, you can see the glaciers of Sassal Masone and Piz Cambrena. This mountain pass not only separates European drainage basins, but also cultures. In winter, when the train line was more susceptible to bad-weather closures, the remote Italian-speaking valley of Poschiavo was often cut off from Switzerland and turned itself toward its southern neighbor, the valley of Veltlin (where you were just riding the bus).
The train crosses the barren landscape and descends into the Engadine valley. This part of Switzerland was discovered by tourists and convalescents at the end of the 19th century. Imagine the gorgeous skiing here in the winter, which still attracts the rich and famous. After the railroad opened this secluded valley to the world, the first hotels and sanatoriums were built (the air and sunshine supposedly helped fight various diseases). Poets found their muse in the wild, romantic landscape, while painters flocked in, attracted by the quality of the light. Keep an eye out for typical Engadine architecture — small windows set in thick walls, etched sgraffito decorations, and carved wooden doors.
The Montebello curve offers you the best views over the Morteratsch glacier on the left, with the impressive peaks in the background. From left to right: the Bellavista Range (12,770 feet), Crest Agüzza (12,690 feet), and the highest peak in the canton, Mount Bernina (13,280 feet). Mount Bernina was first climbed in 1850 by a team led by rangers from the village of Schanf. Their gear consisted only of thick woolen pants, a shirt and jacket, hobnailed shoes, and a hat with a black veil to shade them from the strong sunshine.
As you continue, the tracks are lined by more and more larch trees. The milky-white waters from Lago Bianco and the Morteratsch glacier run wild in a broad riverbed alongside the tracks, as satisfied cows chew away on the meadows and waterfalls tumble down the cliffs. From the Morteratsch station, there's a fine one-hour hike to the edge of the glacier, past posts tracking the glacier's recent retreat.
Next stop: Pontresina. This town is a good place to break the journey (see the Pontresina, Samedan, and St. Moritz chapter). Consider spending a night or two in Pontresina, exploring the quaint village of Samedan, visiting the glitzy resort of St. Moritz, and maybe doing some hiking before continuing on your way.
If you're going to St. Moritz, your train trip is nearly over (about 10 min after Pontresina). But on the way to Chur or Davos, there's more to see....
Bernina Express Train Trip Part Two: From Pontresina to Chur
Although you're leaving the glaciers behind, your trip will still lead you through magnificent mountain scenery, with steep cliffs and deep gorges. First, you'll slide through the broad and mellow valley around Samedan, following the shortest river in Switzerland, Flazbach. On the right, look for the funicular heading up to Muottas Muragl, a viewpoint overlooking the valleys that come together in Samedan. Samedan is home to Europe's highest airport. It serves glider enthusiasts and the rich and famous who come to vacation in St. Moritz.
After Samedan, in Bever, the train leaves the valley and climbs to another spectacular leg of its journey. The section between Bever and Bergün boasts amazing engineering work. Technicians from all over the world come here to admire the diversity of spiral tunnels, looping viaducts, galleries, and bridges that span the Albula Gorge. The train works its way up along a cheerfully splashing mountain creek, between the Arven pine and larch trees and some isolated farmhouses. The Albula tunnel, the highest subterranean alpine crossing in Europe, takes you up to 5,970 feet.
This pass serves as another barrier between cultures and climate — the weather is often different on either side of the tunnel. Hikers can follow the tracks and read the information panels about the construction of the train line. The street along the tracks is closed in winter and considered a paradise for sledders. Every winter, 100,000 sled enthusiasts enjoy this closed, windy road, giving them the ride of their lives on a three-mile, downhill, car-free stretch.
From Preda, the train loops down through five spiral tunnels and two straight tunnels, crossing nine viaducts and going under two galleries — considered the most ingenious railway line ever built. It covers almost eight miles and descends more than 1,365 feet in altitude. The village of Bergün will be visible three separate times as you loop around the valley. Bergün greets you with a modern, public open-air swimming pool and an onion-shaped 17th-century "Roman tower." As the train continues winding down the pretty valley, you'll often be able to see other parts of the track below or next to you. Any track you see is one you've either already been on — or will be soon....
At Filisur, the Bernina Express route splits again. Some trains head directly to Davos (no stops en route), while others continue to Chur. I'll continue to narrate the Chur route.
After Filisur, the Chur-bound train enters a tunnel, and an announcement reminds you to ready your camera and position yourself on the left side. Just after the tunnel, you'll cross the famous Landwasser viaduct. A masterpiece of engineering, its pillars were built without scaffolding. Iron towers, which formed the center of each pillar, were built first. With the help of cranes set up atop each pillar, materials were hoisted up and the brick was laid. The 425-foot-long viaduct curves elegantly in a radius of 330 feet. Below, the wild Albula River carves the dramatic gorge; above, your train's panoramic windows allow you to see the steep, rugged cliffs looming over the tracks (a particularly beautiful stretch is right after Solis). Notice how nicely the dark limestone masonry matches the surrounding landscape (it was quarried right here).
Thusis is the commercial hub of the broad and lush Domleschg valley. The trip takes you down along the Vorderrhein ("Front-Rhine") River. Notice the many fortresses, castles, towers, and ruins along the river, a reminder that taxes were levied on the traders traveling this major route between northern and southern Europe. One of Switzerland's most popular mineral waters originates in Rhäzüns. The 13th-century castle above the town now belongs to a local chemical company.
Reichenau marks the confluence of two arms of the Upper Rhine (the Vorderrhein and the Hinterrhein — "Back-Rhine"). This town became wealthy from the taxes it got from the passing merchants. The 17th-century Reichenau Castle on the Hinterrhein was once used as a school, but is now privately owned. The train follows the Rhine at the foot of Calanda Mountain to our final stop, Chur. You can catch the Glacier Express (explained next) from Chur or from St. Moritz.
Glacier Express
This most promoted of the Swiss scenic rail routes travels between Zermatt in the southwest of Switzerland and various resort towns in eastern Switzerland (St. Moritz, Chur, and Davos). If you stay on for the whole ride, you'll spend almost eight hours crossing 291 bridges, going through 91 tunnels, and reaching an altitude of 6,670 feet.
While it's an impressive and famous journey, the Glacier Express is not necessarily the be-all and end-all of Swiss rail trips. Much of the journey is down in valleys (as opposed to along the sides of cliffs), meaning that high-altitude views are a little lacking. But the stark landscape, carved by the glaciers that gave the train its name, is striking. The trip offers a dramatic way to connect eastern Switzerland with tucked-away-in-the-mountains Zermatt.
Orientation
The Glacier Express is a misnomer — it's hardly an express. Not only does it take its time (traveling at about 20 mph to make the full trip in almost 8 hours), but it also makes several stops along the way. The route cuts along the southern part of Switzerland, between St. Moritz/Chur/Davos (in the east) and Zermatt (in the west). You can ride in either direction.
The most distinctive stretch of the trip is the high-mountain pass between Disentis and Brig. If you don't want to commit to the whole eight hours, you can try to connect a trip with this segment only (about 3 hours). Remember that you can join or leave the trip whenever you like (for example, Chur in the east and Brig in the west link conveniently into Swiss rail lines to other major destinations).
Self-Guided Train Tour
All Glacier Express trains — whether they begin in St. Moritz or Davos — go through Chur. I'll describe the route starting at Chur and heading toward Zermatt. (For details on most of the trip from St. Moritz to Chur, see "Bernina Express Train Trip, Part Two: From Pontresina to Chur.")
Just outside of Chur (near where the St. Moritz train line hits the Chur line), you'll be following the Vorderrhein Gorge, nicknamed the "Swiss Grand Canyon." It was carved by the Rhine River (though way up here in the Alps, this "Baby Rhine" is a little tyke, and not navigable). After about nine miles, the train diverges from the Rhine and enters a pastoral region called Surselva, centered on the town Ilanz. This is Romansh country, where the fourth official language of Switzerland is kept alive — barely — in communities like this one. Romansh, like French and Italian, is a Romance language — but it's more directly descended from Latin than most. From this valley (Reichenau, at roughly 2,000 feet above sea level, is the lowest altitude of the route), the big climb begins.
As you approach Disentis, the tracks begin to twist along the edge of a canyon — making the scenery more dramatic (a taste of what's to come). You'll pull into Disentis, with its big 17th-century Benedictine Monastery looming in your window. Your car will jiggle as the cogwheel engine is attached. This new engine has gears that can lower to latch onto the cogs of an extra rail with grippable teeth. At 10 percent incline (that's 100 meters of gain per kilometer, or about 500 feet per mile), conventional train wheels start to slip. The solution: a cogwheel (a.k.a. rack-and-pinion drive).
You'll work your way up the mountain alongside the Baby Rhine River. Just west of Sedrun is the staging ground for the excavation of the Gotthard Base Tunnel (which will run 30 miles under the mountain from Erstfeld to Bodio when it opens — Gott willing — in 2017). Just past Rueras, the track steepens and the train slows to allow its gears to latch into the cog rail. After Tschamut, the last inhabited place before Oberalp Pass, you enter a long series of snow sheds — designed to protect the tracks (and trains) in case an avalanche strikes. You'll emerge from the sheds at Oberalp Pass, the literal high point of this journey (6,670 feet), and glide along the Oberalp Lake. Notice the extensive network of avalanche fences — a reminder of the many generations of Swiss farmers who have learned to live on the land. The reddish streaks you might see on the snow? Believe it or not, that's sand from the Sahara Desert — caught up in high-altitude winds and carried all the way to the Swiss Alps.
As you descend from the pass, you'll travel over, then through, the modern town of Andermatt, home to a Swiss Army base. Deep below you is the 9.5-mile-long Gotthard Tunnel, which takes trains unscenically from Goschenen to Airolo. In this desolate terrain, notice the huge boulders embedded in the ground, deposited there by glaciers.
Soon after, you'll go through the 9.5-mile-long Furka Basis Tunnel. While it might seem like a view-killer, realize that this tunnel — finished in 1982 — made it possible for the Glacier Express to continue running through the winter. Cars are allowed onto the train to ride smoothly and safely between Realp and Oberwald. This is especially handy in the winter, when the road is closed.
You'll emerge into the region of Goms, with more pretty villages. The village of Fiesch/Kühboden has a cable car up to Eggishorn, boasting views of all the Alps All-Stars: Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau.
Soon after, the train meets up with another one of Europe's great rivers, the Rhône. The baby Rhône, just a bubbly little mountain stream here (originating from the once-mighty Rhône glacier nearby), flows all the way to Marseille, France, and into the Mediterranean.
Finally, you'll arrive at Brig, an ugly industrial town with good connections to other train lines (transfer here if you're not continuing on to Zermatt). From Brig, it's 20 miles on to Zermatt and the Matterhorn, following the craggy Nikolaital Valley. Keep an eye out for vineyards — the highest in Europe. We're out of milk country, and into wine country. At Stalden, a road leads up another valley to the resort of Saas-Fee. Shortly before the village of Randa, you pass a cone of rubble left by a huge avalanche that wiped out two miles of road and track here in 1991.
At Täsch, vast parking lots mark the end of the road for drivers. From here it's train only into the traffic-free terminus of this line, Zermatt. Think about how much the terrain has changed since you started the trip: from fertile farmlands, to tundra above the tree line, to this rough and rocky terrain.
As you continue along the valley, lined with quarries, you'll begin to get your first glimpses of the unmistakable shape of the Matterhorn — a fitting exclamation point marking the end of this long journey. Zermatt — with its bunker-like, avalanche-proof train station — lies just around the bend.
For up-to-date specifics, see the latest edition of the Rick Steves' Switzerland guidebook. We also offer free-spirited tours of Switzerland.