Are you inspired to explore the charms of Southern Spain after seeing Rick Steves' Andalucía? Or are you an armchair traveler wanting to learn more? Whether your bags are packed or you're a virtual traveler, you'll enjoy this collection of articles and tour information on Andalucía.
Jerez's Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art
If you''e into horses, this is a must. Even if you're not, this is art like you've never seen. The school's Horse Symphony show is an equestrian ballet with choreography, purely Spanish music, and costumes from the 19th century. Training sessions on non-performance days offer the public a sneak preview. After the training session, you can take a guided tour of the stables, horses, multimedia and carriage museums, tack room, gardens, and horse health center. Sip sherry in the arena's bar to complete this Jerez experience (tel. 956-318-008, www.realescuela.org).
Sandeman Winery
A tour at the Sandeman Winery in Jerez is the aficionado's choice for its knowledgeable guides and their quality explanations of the process. Each stage is explained in detail, with visual examples of flor (the yeast crust) in backlit barrels, graphs of how different blends are made, and a quick walk-through of the bottling plant (tel. 956-151-700, www.sandeman.com).
The Alhambra in Granada
Granada's magnificent Alhambra fortress was the last stronghold of the Moorish kingdom in Spain, and the reason most tourists come to Granada. Nowhere else does the splendor of Moorish civilization shine so beautifully. The Alhambra consists of four sights clustered together atop a hill: the Palacios Nazaries (exquisite Moorish palace, the one must-see sight), Charles V's Palace (Christian Renaissance palace plopped on top of the Alhambra after the Reconquista), Generalife Gardens (fancy, manicured gardens with small summer palace), and Alcazaba (empty old fort with tower and views). Advance reservations are essential to see the Palacios Nazaries during the day. For reservations, order online at www.alhambra-tickets.es or by phone (from the US, dial 011-34-934-923-750), ask your hotelier to reserve for you when you book your hotel room, or make your Alhambra appointment when you buy a Bono Turístico city pass (www.bonoturisticogranada.com).
Granada's Royal Chapel (Capilla Real)
The lavish Royal Chapel holds the dreams — and bodies — of Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand. Their marriage united the Aragon and Castile kingdoms, allowing an acceleration of the Christian and Spanish push south. The chapel is Plateresque Gothic — light and lacy silver-filigree style, named for and inspired by the fine silverwork of the Moors (entrance on Calle Oficios, just off Gran Vía — go through iron gate, tel. 958-227-848).
Ayo's in Nerja
For 30 years, Ayo — a lovable ponytailed bohemian who promises to be here until he dies — has been feeding locals at his Ayo's beachside restaurant. Ayo is a very big personality — one of the five kids who discovered the Caves of Nerja, formerly a well-known athlete, and now someone who makes it a point to hire hard-to-employ people as a community service. It's a 20-minute walk from the Balcony of Europe to the east end of Burriana Beach — look for Ayo's orange rooftop pyramid (Playa de Burriana, tel. 952-522-289).
The Mezquita in Cordoba
This massive former mosque — now with a 16th-century church rising up from the middle — was once the center of Western Islam and the heart of a cultural capital that rivaled Baghdad and Istanbul. A wonder of the medieval world, it's remarkably well-preserved, giving today's visitors a chance to soak up the ambience of Islamic Córdoba in its 10th-century prime (ticket kiosk inside the Patio de los Naranjos, avoid midday crowds by coming early or late, tel. 957-470-512, www.mezquitadecordoba.org).
Bodegas Campos in Cordoba
Bodegas Campos attracts so many locals it comes with its own garage. House specialties are bull-tail stew (rabo de toro — rich, tasty, and a good splurge) and cod with tomato and pisto, the local ratatouille-like vegetable stew. Behind the WC you'll discover a virtual museum of classic, original feria posters and great photos (from river end of Mezquita walk east along Cardenal González, continue 10 minutes straight to Calle de Lineros 32; tel. 957-497-500).
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park is home to wildflowers, wild ibex (mountain goats), and Europe's largest colony of griffon vultures. The park's plant poster child is the pinsapo, a fir tree left over from the last Ice Age. Drivers will get an eyeful of scenery just passing through the park on their way to sights in Zahara, Grazalema, and the Pileta Cave, all of which fall within the park boundaries. To more fully experience the park — by hiking, caving, canoeing, kayaking, or horseback riding — consider a tour with Zahara Catur (in Zahara, www.zaharacatur.com) or Horizon (in Grazalema, www.horizonaventura.com). To hike on your own you'll need a permit, available in the park office in El Bosque (Avenida de la Diputación, tel. 956-727-029, cv_elbosque@egmasa.es).
Hotel San Gabriel
Hotel San Gabriel has 21 pleasant rooms, a kind staff, public rooms filled with art books, a cozy wine cellar, and a fine garden terrace. If you're a cinephile, kick back in the charming TV room — with seats from Ronda's old theater and a collection of DVD classics — then head to the breakfast room to check out photos of big movie stars who have stayed here (tel. 952-190-392, fax 952-190-117, www.hotelsangabriel.com, info@hotelsangabriel.com, family-run by José Manuel and Ana).
Traga Tapas
Traga Tapas, the accessible little brother of the acclaimed gourmet Restaurante Tragabuches, serves super-creative and always tasty tapas in a stainless-steel minimalist bar. There's just a handful of tall tiny tables and stools, and an enticing blackboard of the day's specials. If you want to sample Andalusían gourmet (such as asparagus on a stick sprinkled with manchego cheese grated coconut-style) without going broke, this is the place to do it (Calle Nueva 4, tel. 952-877-209).
Ronda's Bullring
Ronda's bullring and museum are Spain's most interesting to tour (even better than Sevilla's). You'll see the ring, stables, chapel, and museum, all described by an excellent audioguide. The bullfighters' chapel is where every matador would stop to pray for safety. The museum has exhibits on bullfighting, horse gear, and weapons, with plenty of stuffed bull heads, photos, artwork posters, and costumes. Take advantage of the opportunity to walk in the actual two-tiered arena, with plenty of time to play toro, surrounded by 5,000 empty seats. Bullfights are scheduled only for the first weekend of September during the feria (fair) and occur rarely in the spring (tel. 952-874-132).
Rock of Gibraltar
The spectacular Rock of Gibraltar is a limestone massif, or large rock mass, nearly a mile long, rising 1,400 feet high. Local guides say that these pillars are the only places on the planet where you can see two seas and two continents at the same time. In addition to the stupendous view from the very top, there are quirky apes, the hokey St. Michael's cave, and impressive military Siege Tunnels. You can tour the Rock by taxi or by cable car. There's no reason to take a big bus tour (advertised all over town) considering how fun and easy the taxi tours are. Private cars are not allowed high on the Rock.
Sevilla's Golden Tower
Sevilla's historic riverside Golden Tower is named for the golden tiles that once covered it — not for all the New World booty that landed here. Today it houses a dreary little naval museum. Looking past the dried fish and charts of knots, find the mural showing the world-spanning journeys of Vasco da Gama, the model of Columbus' Santa María (the first ship to land in the New World), and an interesting mural of Sevilla in 1740. Enjoy the view from the balconies upstairs (tel. 954-222-419).
Sevilla's Alcázar
This is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. While Granada's Alhambra was built by Moors for Moorish rulers, what you see here is essentially a Christian ruler's palace, built in the Moorish style. The floor plan is intentionally confusing — designed to make experiencing the place more exciting and surprising. In the palace's three wings you'll see the 16th-century Admiral's Apartments, here Spain's New World ventures were administered; the 14th-century palace of King Pedro the Cruel, with its elegantly proportioned Court of the Maidens; and the 13th-century Gothic wing, with fine copies of 16th-century tapestries from Brussels. Don't miss the gardens, which are full of tropical flowers, feral cats, cool fountains, and hot tourists. The fast-moving, easy-to-use audioguide gives you an hour of information as you wander (tel. 954-502-323, www.patronato-alcazarsevilla.es).
Sevilla's Cathedral and Giralda Bell Tower
Sevilla's cathedral, the third-largest church in Europe, took 120 years to build. A letter displayed in the cathedral from the Guinness Book of World Records certifies, "The cathedral with the largest area is: Santa María de la Sede in Sevilla, 126 meters long, 82 meters wide, and 30 meters high." Everything here is big. The high altar is 65 feet tall, with 44 scenes from the life of Jesus carved out of walnut and chestnut, blanketed by a staggering amount of gold leaf (and dust), and took three generations to complete. The choir features an organ of 7,000 pipes. The cathedral holds the tomb of Christopher Columbus, as well as several chapels and a main sacristy with an ornate, 16th-century Plateresque dome of the main room — a grand souvenir from Sevilla's Golden Age. Church admission includes entry to the Giralda Bell Tower. Notice the beautiful Moorish simplicity as you climb to its top, 330 feet up, for a grand city view. A 4,500-pound bronze statue symbolizing the Triumph of Faith (specifically, the Christian faith over the Muslim one) caps the tower and serves as a weather vane — giraldillo in Spanish (tel. 954-214-971, dry audioguide available for rent).