Germany's Mosel River Valley
By Rick Steves
The
misty Mosel River Valley is what some visitors hoped the bustling, industrious
Rhine would be: peaceful, sleepy, romantic villages slipped between steep
vineyards and the river; fine wine; a sprinkling of castles; and lots
of friendly B&Bs called Zimmer. On summer weekends and during
the fall harvest time, the region comes alive with wine festivals with
oompah bands, dancing, and colorful costumes.
The swan-speckled Mosel moseys 300 miles from France's Vosges Mountains to the German city of Koblenz, where it dumps into the Rhine. The most scenic piece of the valley lies between the towns of Bernkastel-Kues and Cochem.
My favorite castle in all of Europe lurks in a mysterious forest above the Mosel between Cochem and Koblenz. It's been left intact for 700 years, and is elegantly furnished throughout as it was in the Middle Ages. Thanks to smart diplomacy and clever marriages, the castle was never destroyed. (It survived one five-year siege.) It's been in the Eltz family for 820 years. Each week, the countess still warms the castle's stony halls with fresh flowers.
Approaching the castle is part of the thrill. Hiking an hour up from the riverside ferry dock or the Moselkern train station, you'll venture through an eerie forest long enough to get you into a medieval mood, and then suddenly it appears, all alone — the past engulfed in nature — Burg Eltz.
A quick train ride away, cuddly Cochem is a picturesque touristic hub along the Mosel. Its pointy castle is the work of overly imaginative 19th-century restorers. You can rent bikes, stroll the pleasant paths that line the river, or hike up to the cross on the hill for a great view.
Farther upstream is Beilstein, the quaintest of all Mosel towns. This is Cinderella land. Explore the narrow lanes, ancient wine cellar, resident (and very territorial) swans, and ruined castle.
The town of Zell is peaceful, with a fine riverside promenade, and plenty of inexpensive Zimmer. The long pedestrian zone is filled with colorful shops, restaurants, wine bars. On weekend evenings, the main square rollicks with a fun oompah folk band.
For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Guidebooks — or join us on one of our free-spirited tours in Germany.