Athens

This is a preview of the chapter on Athens that will appear in Rick's new guidebook, Athens and the Peloponnesian Peninsula, scheduled to be published in early 2009.

Rick first collaborated on this chapter with Lonely Planet author David Willet in September 2004, and it was updated by Rick's co-author Cameron Hewitt in 2006. We hope that Athens'-bound travelers will find it useful, while remembering that prices and other time-sensitive material may now be somewhat out of date.

Planning Your Time	Sleeping
Orientation	Eating
Athens at a Glance	Transportation Connections

 

Best of Athens

A century and a half ago, Athens was a humble city of about 8,000 people huddled at the base of the Acropolis. Today it's the teeming home of about four million Greeks.

One out of every three Greeks packs into this city — not because of its charm, but in hopes of good employment. The city is famous for its sprawl, noise, and pollution. The best advice to tourists has long been to see the big sights, then get out. But over the last decade or so, the city has made a concerted effort to curb pollution, clean up and pedestrianize the streets, spiff up the museums, and invest in one of Europe's better public transit systems. All of these urban upgrades reached a peak as Athens prepared to host the 2004 Olympic Games. Today Athens feels like a different place to those who backpacked here in the days of Jackie and Ari O.

Even so, the conventional wisdom still holds true: Athens is a great city to see...but not to linger in. See the big sights (Acropolis, Ancient Agora, National Archaeological Museum), enjoy the shopping, eating, and strolling ambience of the Plaka (19th-century old town), and move on.

Planning Your Time

Athens' top sights, the Acropolis/Ancient Agora and the National Archaeological Museum, deserve a half-day each. Two days total is plenty of time for the casual tourist to see the city's main attractions.

Day 1: In the morning, follow my "Welcome to Athens" introductory walk. Spend midday in the markets (shopping in the Plaka, browsing in the Central Market, and wandering through the flea market — best on Sunday). Grab a souvlaki lunch near Monastiraki. After lunch, do the ancient biggies — tour the Ancient Agora, then the Acropolis (confirming carefully how late the Acropolis is open). Be the last person off the Acropolis. Stroll down the Dionysiou Areopagitou into the Plaka for your evening meal and music.

Day 2: Spend the morning visiting museums or exploring the Plaka. After lunch, head to the National Archaeological Museum. Consider a bus tour to see the sunset at Cape Sounion's Temple of Poseidon .

Orientation

Ninety-five percent of Athens is noisy, polluted modern sprawl, jammed with characterless concrete suburbs, poorly planned and hastily erected to house the city's rapidly expanding population. But forget all that, and pretend the old center is all there is — which is easier than you might expect.

For the sightseer, Athens is small. With the major exception of the National Archaeological Museum, everything of importance is within a few blocks of the Acropolis. This city-within-a-city takes in the districts of Monastiraki, Plaka, Syntagma, Kolonaki, Psyrri, Thisio, and Gazi to the north of the Acropolis, and Koukaki, Pangrati, Mets, and Makrigianni to the south.

The narrow, winding streets of the Plaka can be confusing at first, but you can't get too lost with a monument the size of the Acropolis looming overhead to keep you oriented. Street signs everywhere are in both Greek and English.

A good map is a necessity for enjoying Athens on foot. The fine map the TI gives out works great. One way or another, get a good map and use it. Note that due to the inexact science of translating from the Greek to the Roman alphabet, spellings of street names may vary.

Tourist Information

The Greek National Tourist Organization (EOT), run by helpful Nikos, covers Athens and the rest of the country (May-mid-Oct Mon–Fri 9:00–21:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–19:00; mid-Oct-April Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00; from the top of Syntagma Square facing the Parliament, head right/south a few blocks along the busy street to Amalias 26; tel. 210-331-0392, www.gnto.gr, info-desk@gnto.gr). Pick up their free and handy city map and the slick, glossy book on Athens. They've also got piles of handouts covering your every question — museums, entertainment options, bus and train information, and ferry schedules to destinations throughout Greece. EOT also has an office at the airport (generally daily 8:00–22:00 but depends on flight schedule, tel. 210-353-0445).

Arrival in Athens

By Bus: Athens has two main intercity bus stations. Buses from the south, including the Peloponnese, arrive at Terminal A (4 miles northwest of the center; bus #051 runs between the terminal and the corner of Zinonos and Menandrou, near Omonia Square, 4/hr). A taxi from Terminal A to Syntagma should cost no more than €10. If you're arriving from northern or central Greece, such as Delphi, you'll be dropped at Terminal B (just over a mile north of Omonia Square, off Liossion; bus #024 goes from Liossion to the National Garden, near Syntagma Square, 3/hr). The city hopes to soon combine these intercity bus stations at a new terminal near the Tavros Metro station.

By Train: Most trains call at the Larissis station, just north of the historical center — on Metro line 2 (red). Athens' lofty plans for a new intercity train station at Arharnon, 13 miles north of the city center, have been put indefinitely on hold.

By Plane: The Metro Line 3 connects the airport with the city center. For information about Athens' Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, see the Transportation Connections section at the end of this chapter.

Getting Around Athens

On a brief two-day visit, it's unlikely you'll take any public transportation once you're settled at your hotel--the tourists' core of Athens is surprisingly compact and walkable.

By Metro: The Metro is the best way to travel around central Athens. Trains run about every five minutes (5:00–24:00, www.ametro.gr). Buy the €0.80 tickets at machines or from ticket windows. Be sure to stamp your ticket in the machine before boarding. Those riding without a ticket (or with an unstamped ticket) are subject to stiff fines. The €3 public-transit day pass generally isn't worthwhile.

There are three lines:

Line 1 (green) runs from the port of Piraeus to the northern suburbs. Since this is an older line (called ISAP or "subway" rather than "Metro"), it's slower and costs slightly less than the Metro — €0.70 per ride instead of €0.80. Important stops include Monastiraki (city center), Plateia Viktorias (National Archaeological Museum), and Irini (Olympic Stadium). You can transfer to Line 2 at Omonia, and to Line 3 at Monastiraki.

Line 2 (red) runs from Agios Adonios in the northwest to Agios Dimitrios in the southeast. Important stops include Larissis (train station), Syntagma (city center), and Akropoli (Acropolis and Makrigianni). Transfer to Line 1 at Omonia, and to Line 3 at Syntagma.

Line 3 (blue) runs from Monastiraki to the airport. Important stops are Syntagma and Evangelismos (Byzantine and War museums). Transfer to Line 1 at Monastiraki, and to Line 2 at Syntagma.

By Bus: Athens' buses are slow and overcrowded. Avoid them unless you're connecting the two intercity bus stations. Buy the €0.50 tickets in advance, either from a special ticket kiosk or from one of the many regular kiosks that dot the streets. Tickets must be validated in the orange machines as you board. The city also runs a made-for-tourists bus route (described under "Tours," below).

By Coastal Tram: The Athens Coastal Tram starts at Syntagma and runs 18 miles through the neighborhoods of Neos Kosmos and Nea Smyrni, emerging at the sea near Paleo Faliro. From there, it splits: One branch heads for the Stadium and Olympic coastal complex in Neo Faliro, while the other runs past the marinas and beaches to Glyfada Square (€0.40-0.60, depending on how many stops you're going).

By Taxi: Athens is a great taxi town. Its yellow taxis are cheap and helpful (€1 to start, then €0.32 per km, plus surcharges: €0.80 from ports and train and bus stations, €3 from the airport). While the day rate (tariff 1 on the meter) is €0.32 per kilometer, the rate doubles between midnight and 5:00 in the morning (tariff 2). You'll also pay the double rate outside the city limits, and you're responsible for any tolls incurred by the driver (such as on the speedy road to the airport). Baggage costs €0.30 for each item over 10 kg (about 22 pounds). The minimum fare of €2.50 covers most journeys in central Athens.

Athens' cabbies double up — picking up more customers heading the same way — so there's no guarantee that you'll have the cab to yourself. Unfortunately, sharing the cab doesn't mean sharing the fare. The cabbie makes more and the passengers save nothing. Still, this makes it easier to find an available cab. You can simply hail any empty cab, or wave at a cab with a customer going your way and tell them where you're going. (If your destination works for the cabbie, he'll welcome you in.)

If you call for a taxi ("radio-taxi"), the driver isn't allowed to double up — but you'll pay a €1.50 surcharge. (Hotels and restaurants can call you a cab.)

Formerly chaotic and polluted, Athens has become pedestrian-friendly.

Helpful Hints

Theft Alert: Be wary of pickpockets at all times, particularly in crowds, at the Sunday Flea Market, on the Metro between the city and Piraeus, and at the port.

Bar Alert: Single male travelers are strongly advised to stay away from bars recommended by strangers encountered on the street. It sounds like an easy trap to avoid, but the steady flow of victims suggests otherwise. A dozen or so con men cruise the streets around the Plaka and Syntagma Square, looking for likely dupes. They are pros who speak multiple languages and specialize in putting travelers at ease. They pretend that they, too, are strangers in town who just happen to have stumbled upon a "great little bar." Your newfound friend will then take you to one of the area's sleazy bars and keep buying bottles of overpriced Champagne for the friendly girls that inevitably appear — and insist that you "share" the bill.

Telephones: All OTE phone booths work with cards (€3, €6, or €9; 3 min costs €0.30) — not coins. Cheap international phone cards work fine for both local and international calls. Both types of cards are sold at news kiosks.

Emergency: The "Tourist Police" is a special branch of the Greek police force responsible for handling problems such as disputes with hotels, restaurants, and other tourist services (available daily 24 hours; in the suburb of Koukaki, south of the Acropolis, at Veikou 43-45; tel. 210-920-0724). They also act as a contact point between tourists and other branches of the police force. The tourist police also staff a 24-hour information service (tel. 171) for emergency help.

Embassies: The United States Embassy is at Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 91 (tel. 210-721-2951), near the Megalo Musikis Metro station. The Canadian Embassy is nearby at Genadiou 4 (tel. 210-727-3400).

Bookshops: Compendium Bookstore stocks only English-language books (includes secondhand section; Mon, Wed, and Sat 9:00-17:00, Tue and Thu-Fri 9:00-20:30, closed Sun; corner of Nikis and Nikodimou, Plaka, tel. 210-322-1248). Eleftheroudakis is Greece's largest bookshop, with a floor for travel guides and maps and an entire floor for English books (Mon–Fri 9:00–21:00, Sat 9:00–18:00, closed Sun, Panepistimiou 17, 3 blocks north of Syntagma Square, tel. 210-325-8440). They run a smaller branch in the Plaka (same hours, Nikis 20, tel. 210-322-9388).

Car Rental: Syngrou Avenue is Athens' "rental car lane," with all the big companies (and piles of little ones) competing fiercely for your business. Syngrou is an easy walk from the Plaka and recommended hotels. Budget travelers can often negotiate great deals by visiting a few rental places and haggling.

Laundry: A handy launderette in the heart of Plaka charges €9 to wash, dry, and fold an 11-pound load (June–Sept Mon–Sat 8:00–20:00, Sun 8:00–15:00; Oct–May Mon–Sat 8:00–18:00, Sun 8:00–13:00; Geronta 10, tel. 210-321-3102).

Internet Access: EasyInternetcafé at Syntagma Square is handy and open all the time (bottom of square, right of McDonald's, enter through Everest and head upstairs). Bits and Bytes is also always open (Kapnikarea 19, Plaka). Across the street from the National Archaeological Museum, the Museum Internet Café has very fast access and the inviting atmosphere of a sprawling Starbucks (daily 9:00–24:00, on the left as you face the museum at Patision 46, tel. 210-883-3418). Hanging out here while sipping and surfing is a joy after a museum visit.

Post Offices: The most convenient post office for travelers is at Syntagma Square (Mon–Fri 7:30–20:00, Sat 7:30–14:00, Sun 9:00-13:00, bottom of the square, at corner with Mitropoleos). Smaller neighborhood offices include Monastiraki (Mon–Fri 7:30–14:00, closed Sat–Sun, Mitropoleos 58) and Makrigianni (Mon–Fri 7:30–14:00, closed Sat–Sun, Dionysiou Areopagitou 7).

Tours

Bus Tours — Four main companies run bus tours around Athens: Hop In Sightseeing (Zanni 29, in Piraeus, tel. 210-428-5500), CHAT (Xenofontos 9, tel. 210-322-3137), GO Tours (Athanassiou 20, tel. 210-921-9555), and Key Tours (Kalirois 4, tel. 210-923-3166).

Hop In is popular for its fleet of deluxe, modern buses, and because it runs its tours only in English--so you don't have to listen to guides repeating themselves in a string of different languages. It offers a basic four-hour city tour, including a guided tour of the Acropolis, for €46 (€64 extended version includes National Archaeological Museum). Evening activities include a 90-mile round-trip drive down the coast to Cape Sounion to see the sunset at the Temple of Poseidon (€32, 4 hrs--not worth the time if you'll be seeing ancient sites elsewhere in Greece), and a night city tour that finishes with folk dancing at a taverna (€52). Hop In also offers one-day tours to Delphi and to Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidavros (either tour €82 with lunch; €72 for tour only), and two-day tours to the monasteries of Meteora (€142).

It's convenient to book tours through your hotel. Most hotels act as a booking agent for at least one tour company. While they are in business to snare a commission, some offer substantial discounts on the listed prices as a service to their clients.

Walking Tours — For those who prefer to explore on foot, City Walking Tours offers a choice of five different walks (€29 per tour, all depart daily at 9:15, meet outside Syntagma Metro Station in Syntagma Square, walks last 3–4 hours, office open Mon–Fri 10:00–17:00, closed Sat–Sun, tel. 210-884-7269, mobile 694-585-9662).

The city also runs a made-for-tourists bus #400, which does a handy little loop around the city's main sights (all narrated by a brochure; €5 ticket good for 24 hrs on this and all other public buses, measly bus frequency of 1/hr, entire loop takes 90 min). But since most of the major sights in Athens are within easy walking distance of the Plaka, I'd use this only if I had extra time and wanted to get out to the outlying sights.

For a private local guide, contact the Union of Official Guides (tel. 210-322-9705, about €140 per half-day).

 

Athens at a Glance

Acropolis and Acropolis Museum One of the most famous monuments of the ancient world Hours: April-Oct site daily 8:00-19:30; Nov-March daily 8:00-17:30.

Ancient Agora The commercial, political and social heart of the city in ancient times. Hours  Daily April-Sept 8:00-19:30 daily, Oct-March 8:00-17:30.

National Archaeological Museum One of the great museums of the world, home to the most important finds from archaeological sites around the country. Hours April-Oct Tues-Sun 8:00-19:30, Mon 13:00-19:30; Nov-March Tue-Sun 8:00-15:00, Mon 10:30-17:00.

 

Self-Guided Walk

 

Welcome to Athens: Syntagma and Plaka

This self-guided walking tour is a great way to link the major attractions of the fascinating old Plaka district and surrounding areas. It starts at Syntagma Square, finishes at Monastiraki (near Ancient Agora, markets, and good restaurants), and involves about 45 minutes of actual walking. Allow closer to three hours if you intend to explore along the way.

Syntagma Square

In 1830, the Plaka was the nucleus of Athens. Syntagma Square (now the heart of the city) was on the outskirts of town. It was created in 1834 as part of a grand plan drawn up by the bevy of Bavarian architects called in by King Otto's father, Ludwig I, to create a worthy capital for newly independent Greece.

Imagine the original Syntagma Square: a big front yard for the new royal palace with the country's leading families building mansions around the square. The Hotel Grand Bretagne, the adjacent Hotel King George II, the palatial Zappeion in the national garden, and the stately architecture lining Queen Sophia street behind the palace (now embassies and museums) are all surviving examples of these early mansions.

Originally known as Plateia Vasileos Othon, it became known as Syntagma (that means constitution) Square after a riotous crowd jammed the square on 3 September, 1843, demanding a constitution. King Otto, giving a speech from the balcony of the Royal Palace (now the Greek Parliament), overlooking the square, gave his people — whose ancestors invented the concept — democracy.

Syntagma Square is also worth a footnote in Cold War history. In December 1944, Greek police fired on a communist demonstration here, killing several protesters and sparking battles all over the city between newly arrived British troops (in Athens to support the return of the right-wing monarchy) and members of the Greek resistance (mostly communists). When Britain could no longer afford to aid the Greek government against the communists, the United States took over. President Harry Truman explained this policy in a 1947 address to Congress, which became the basis for the Truman Doctrine — pledging American aid to countries fighting communism, and shaping U.S. foreign policy for the next 50 years.

Breathe deep and ponder the fact that until 1990, Athens was the most polluted city in Europe. It could turn your hanky black in hours. But over the last decade and half, "green" policies have systematically cleaned up the air. Traffic — while still pretty extreme — is limited: even- and odd-numbered license plates are prohibited in the center on alternate days. (Wealthy locals get around this restriction by owning two cars — one with even plates, the other with odd.) While car traffic is down, motorcycles are exempt...and their usage is up. Central-heating fuel is more expensive and much cleaner these days (as required by European Union regulations), more of the city center is pedestrianized, and the city's public transport is top notch.

Today the city's busiest subway station dumps people into the café-filled square. Plane trees (chosen for their resilience against pollution and the generous shade they provide) make Syntagma a breezy and restful spot. Around the square, you'll find Athens' most venerable hotel (Grande Bretagne), the American Express office, buses to the airport (parked in front of the City Bank), and the start of the new Athens Coastal Tram. The TI is a few blocks away (down Amalias street).

Hike across the busy street at the top of Syntagma Square for a close look at the...

Parliament

Greece's imposing parliament building, where 300 representatives (elected every four years) tend to the business of state, overlooks Syntagma Square.

The origins of this palace of democracy, couldn't have been less democratic. It was built as the Royal Palace by a Bavarian architect, who was under instructions to design a suitably grand home for the new royal family, Otto and Amalia, recently arrived from Nafplio.

It was completed in 1842 at a time of rapidly escalating tensions between the new Bavarian elite and frustrated leaders of the War of Independence. If the palace was designed to impress, then the effect was quite the opposite. The conspicuous consumption angered impoverished locals.

The palace may have given the appearance of luxury, but life here sucked. The place was terribly impractical.impossible to heat in winter and with only one bathroom among its 365 rooms. Imagine the lines. The palace, badly damaged by fire in 1909 and refurbished in the 1930s, has been the home of the Greek Parliament since 1935.

In front of the Parliament buildings is the...

Tomb of the Unknown Warrior

This monument is guarded by the much-photographed evzones, a special infantry unit of the Greek army. These colorful characters are clad in the traditional pleated kilt (fustanella), white britches, and pom-pom shoes made famous by the klephts, the mountain fighters who battled so ferociously in the War of Independence. The soldiers' skirts have 400 pleats...one for each year of Turkish/Ottoman occupation (and don't you forget it). The evzones change guard every hour on the hour, with a full changing-of-the-guard ceremony, complete with marching band, at 11:00 on Sundays.

From the bottom of Syntagma, stroll down...

Ermou Street

This pedestrian mall leads from Syntagma (next to McDonald's) down into the Plaka, and west to the Keramikos cemetery and the Gazi district. Just a few years ago, this street epitomized all that was terrible about Athens: lousy building codes, tacky neon signs, trucks double-parked, and noisy traffic. When Ermou was first pedestrianized in 2000, merchants were upset. Now they love the ambience created as countless locals stroll through what has become a people-friendly shopping zone. This has traditionally been the street of women's shops (Akadimias is the "men's shopping street"). Many of the department stores on Ermou are housed in impressive neoclassical mansions, and talented street performers (many of them former music professionals from Eastern Europe) provide an entertaining soundtrack.

Ermou leads downhill to the...

Church of Kapnikarea

A classic Byzantine church (11th century, often closed), Kapnikarea is based on a Greek cross (like a plus sign inside a circle, symbolizing the perfection of God) rather than the Latin cross that's common in Western Europe. Telltale signs of a Byzantine church include round arches over the windows, bricks with the mortar surrounding the stones, and a domed cupola symbolizing heaven (always painted inside with the omnipotent "Pantocrator" God blessing us on Earth from its very top). The glass-and-gold-leaf mosaic around the door, while 20th century, is in the traditional style. Notice the focus on the eyes, which were considered a mirror of the soul and a symbol of its purity. The church is named for the tax on the cloth merchants that once lined this square.

At the church, turn left and proceed downhill on Kapnikareas Street two blocks, first passing a busy intersection, then the traffic-free Pandrossou Street. Ahead is the Roman Agora. On the right, Pandrossou Street Market leads to Monastiraki Square. (We'll backtrack to here later to finish this walk, going from this intersection through the shopping street.)

But for now, we'll circle clockwise on our Plaka tour. Turn left and walk (passing the recommended Hermion Restaurant, on the right) up the pedestrian street to the cathedral.

Cathedral

This church was built with the arrival of King Otto in 1842. A statue of Damaskinos, archbishop of Greece from 1891–1949, faces the cathedral (generally open daily 8:00–13:00 & 16:30–20:00). As you enter any Greek Orthodox church, join the locals in the standard ritual: Drop a coin in the wooden box, pick up a candle, say a prayer, light the candle, and place in the candelabra. Make the sign of the cross and kiss the icon (in this case the one closest to the door--Jesus). Notice the lipstick smudges on the icon's protective glass. Also notice the candle recycle box behind the candelabra. Orthodox churches come with an altar screen dividing the lay community and the priests. The spiritual heavy lifting takes place behind the screen, where the priests turn the bread and wine into the body and blood of Jesus. Then they open the doors and serve it to their faithful flock--spooning the wine from a challis while holding a cloth under each chin so as not to drop any on the floor.

Traditionally, women worshipped apart from men in the balconies upstairs. Women got the vote in Greece in 1954, and since about that time, they've been able to worship in the prime, ground-floor real estate with their men. The scaffolding has decorated this unremarkable church since the earthquake of 1989.

Leaving the cathedral, hook left to a smaller but much more historic...

Byzantine Church of Agios Eleftherios

The marble bits were scavenged from the Ancient Agora in the 12th century. The carved reliefs above the door are part of a calendar of ancient Athenian festivals, thought to have been carved in the second century A.D. The church is sometimes referred to as "the old cathedral," because it was used by the archbishops of Athens after they were evicted from the Parthenon by the Turks. Step inside for pure 12th-century Orthodox architectural beauty.

Behind this little church, turn right, following Agia Filotheis for a couple of blocks, then (after a little jog right at the intersection with the busy street) continue along the pedestrians-only Adrianou, a touristy market street. Head uphill a few more blocks until you reach a small square with palm trees, the Byzantine Church of St. Catherine, and the small, ancient Greek excavation (look down at street level from 2,000 years ago).

At the traffic street ahead, look left to see Hadrian's Arch, but go right to the...

Monument of Lysicrates

This elegant marble monument is the sole survivor of many such monuments that once lined this ancient "Street of the Tripods." It was so called because the monuments came with bronze tripods that displayed grand ornamental pottery vases and cauldrons (like those you'll see in the museums) as trophies. These ancient "Oscars" were awarded to winners of choral and theatrical competitions staged at the Theater of Dionysus on the southern side of the Acropolis. This lonely monument was erected in 334 b.c. by "Lysicrates of Kykyna, son of Lysitheides" — proud sponsor of the winning choral team that year. Excavations around the monument uncovered the foundations of other monuments, which are now reburied under a layer of red sand awaiting further study.

This lonely monument was erected in 334 BC by 'Lysicrates of Kykyna, son of Lysitheides', proud sponsor of the winning choral team that year. Excavations around the monument uncovered the foundations of other monuments which are now reburied under a layer of red sand awaiting further study.

Passing the monument to the left, follow Epimenidou up the steps to the top. At the fork, head right up Stratonos, which leads around the base of the Acropolis. Pass the small St. George of the Rock Church, going straight, and continue gradually uphill. As you immerse yourself in a maze of tiny whitewashed houses, follow signs that point to the Acropolis. This is the community of...

Anafiotika

This charming "village" is Anafiotika. Literally "little Anafi," it was built by people from the tiny Cycladic island of Anafi who came to Athens looking for work after independence. In this delightful spot, nestled beneath the walls of the Acropolis, the city seems miles away. Weave through narrow paths lined with flowers and dotted with cats dozing peacefully in the sunshine. While ancestors of the original islanders still live here, Anafiotika is slowly becoming a place for wealthy locals to have an "island cottage" in the city. As you wander through the oleanders, notice the male fig trees — no fruit — that keep flies and mosquitoes away. Smell the chicken-manure fertilizer, peek into delicate little yards, enjoy the blue doors and maroon shutters...it's a transplanted Cycladic world.

Follow signs to the Acropolis (no matter how unlikely the direction might seem) until you emerge on a concrete ramp at the edge of the houses. This part of the walk circles the Acropolis. Turn right and head downhill back into the Plaka. At the traffic street, head left on the path leading to the Acropolis. After about 30 yards, just before the souvenir shack, turn right. Follow a series of stairs (a lane called Klepsidras) on their perfectly straight course until they dead-end at a black iron fence overlooking the...

The Roman Agora and The Tower of the Winds

The Romans conquered Greece around 150 B.C. and stayed for centuries. This square was the commercial center of Roman Athens, with a colonnade providing shade for shoppers browsing the many stores that fronted it. Centuries later, the Ottoman Turks made this their grand bazaar. The mosque survives (although its minaret, like all minarets in town, was torn down by the Greeks when they won independence in the 19th century). The only building of any importance for sightseers is on the far right — the octagonal Tower of the Winds. Circle right for a closer look.

Built in the first century b.c., the Tower of the Winds was an ingenious combination of clock, weather vane, and guide to the planets. It's named after the beautiful relief carvings that depict the ancient Greek symbols for the eight winds. While even local guides don't know which is which, the reliefs are still beautiful. As you walk down the hill (curving right, then left around the fence), you'll see reliefs depicting a boy with a harp, a boy with a basket of flowers (summer wind), a relief with a circle, and a guy blowing a conch shell--he's imitating Boreas, the howling winter winds from the north. The tower was capped with a weathervane in the form of a bronze Triton (half-man, half-fish) that spun to indicate which wind was blessing or cursing the city at the moment.

Bronze rods protruded from the walls and acted as sundials to indicate the time. And when the sun wasn't shining, time was told by the tower's sophisticated water clock, powered by water piped in from springs on the Acropolis. Under Turkish rule, dervishes used the tower as a place of whirling and prayer.

Since you can see the tower from the outside, and there's little else to see inside, going into the Roman Agora is not that important (€2, included in €12 Acropolis ticket, daily 8:00–19:30, until 18:00 off-season). But if you buy your €12 Acropolis ticket here, you can avoid lines at the Acropolis and pop into this sight essentially for free for a look at all the sides of the Tower of the Winds (a plaque explains this cool monument).

From the tower, head downhill on Eolou. After passing the excavation site of Hadrian's Library (on the left), you'll return to the intersection we stopped at earlier. Remembering that this crowded lane is worked by expert pickpockets, head left down Pandrosou to...

Monastiraki Square

Stand in the center of the square for this clockwise orientation spin-tour: To the right of the market street (where you entered) stands a former mosque (look for the Arabic script over the door). Known as the Tzami, it was a place of worship from the 15th to 19th centuries, was later briefly used as a barracks and jail, and today houses the Greek Folk Art Museum's ceramics collection (entrance along fence to right of mosque, €2, Wed-Mon 9:00-14:30, closed Tue). Behind the mosque stand the Corinthian columns of Hadrian's Library (second century A.D.).

The Acropolis towers behind the library; if you walk toward the library and then turn right on Adrianou, you'll reach the Greek agora. The yellow train station was Athens' original British-built, 19th-century train station — neoclassical with a dash of Byzantium — and functions today as a Metro station. Just past the station, a road leads downhill into the flea market (antiques, jewelry, cheap clothing, artifacts from the Nazi occupation, and so on). If locals need a screw for an old lamp, they know they'll find it here. Opposite the Acropolis, Athinas Street leads straight to Omonia Square, past the bustling Central Market (5-min walk up the street). The small church in the square is the Church of the Virgin (12th-century Byzantine, mostly restored with a much more modern bell tower). The street behind the church is clogged with locals chowing down on the best souvlaki in town

Your tour is over. You could conveniently explore the flea market, the central market, the nearby Keramikos cemetery, or dive into the Ancient Agora. Alternatively, you could dive into a spicy souvlaki.

Sights

The Agora: Athens' Ancient Market

 

While the Acropolis was the ceremonial showpiece, it was the agora that was the real heart of ancient Athens. For some 800 years, from its foundation in the 6th century B.C. to its destruction by the Herulians in A.D. 267, it was the hub of all commercial, political, and social life, as well as home to the city's principal administrative and legislative buildings.

The agora was a lively place, where the pace seldom slackened — much like modern Athens. Crowds would gather here to listen to philosophers, such as the great Socrates, who spent much of his life here preaching the virtues of "nothing to excess," and urging listeners to "know thyself." The apostle Paul stopped here on his way to Corinth in A.D. 49.

The agora was never restored to its original role after the visit of the ransacking Herulians, and was slowly taken over by private housing. By the 18th century, it had become a flourishing Turkish residential district. The American School of Archaeology then arrived in the 1950s, forced everyone out of their houses and businesses, and demolished buildings that had stood for centuries — all so they could dig here.

Apart from the Temple of Hephaestus, little survives from the classical agora, but it remains a wonderful place to get a feel for the ancient city, nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis. Unlike the crowded Acropolis, the agora is a quiet, generally deserted place to wander and ponder the wonders of ancient Athens. Don't pay the €4 admission if you're going to the Acropolis, as it's included in the €12 Acropolis ticket. The Ancient Agora is open daily April–Sept 8:00–19:30, Oct–March 8:00–17:30 (last entry 30 min before closing, Agora Museum opens at 11:00 on Mon, main entrance from Adrianou, tel. 210-321-0180).

Self-Guided Tour: This tour will help you find meaning in the evocative rubble of the agora. Except for the temple and the museum in the rebuilt Stoa of Attalos, there are few "sights." As you wander, read about the various ruins from posted info panels scattered helpfully throughout the site (thanks to the 2004 Olympics).

Panathenaic Way: Entering the site, use the chart at the top of the ramp — showing Athens at its peak — to orient yourself. From the modern entrance, the Panathenaic Way runs straight through the agora (exiting on the far side) up toward the Acropolis. In ancient times, this was the ceremonial route followed by the grand parade at the Great Panathenaic Festival; today's tourists use the path to connect the sights of the agora. If you're seeing the Acropolis after the agora, you'll basically follow the Panathenaic Way with a sightseeing loop or two en route.

Find the modern Stoa of Attalos on your left (with the Agora Museum) and the Temple of Hephaestus on your right. First you'll stop by the Stoa of Attalos to visit the museum, then continue straight ahead as you exit the stoa to the Temple, returning to the Panathenaic Way via the three giants of the Gymnasium. Finally, you'll head past the wall and church up to the Acropolis exit.

Begin at the...

Stoa of Attalos: The Stoa of Attalos was faithfully reconstructed in the 1950s by the American School of Archaeology to resemble the original stoa (covered walkway and hangout area), which was built by King Attalos II of Pergamum (159–138 B.C.). Imagine ancient Greeks (their hard labor done by slaves) lounging around in the shade provided by fine buildings like this. Notice the pillars designed to encourage leaning — with fluting starting only above six feet for the comfort of your favorite philosopher. The portico is supported by 45 columns — Doric (outer layer) and Ionic (inner layer) on the ground floor, and Ionic on the upper gallery. Upstairs are the workshops and offices of the American School of Archaeology, which continues its work.

Ten of the original 21 ground-floor rooms have been replaced by a small hall housing the Agora Museum. Taking this well-described chronological stroll through art from 3,200 B.C., you'll get a fun glimpse of life in ancient Athens (seeing a cute little baby's commode, a voting machine, and a barbeque).

Leaving the Stoa of Attalos, walk straight along the lane, pass a fine Corinthian capital and a well, cross an aqueduct, and climb past the scant remains of what were the state administrative buildings to the...

Temple of Hephaestus: This is the only temple anywhere in the ancient Greek world with a completely intact roof. As it was used as a church for centuries, it was never cannibalized for its stone. It stands on a low hill at the western edge of the agora, where it was built in 449 b.c. When the great buildings of the Acropolis were begun, it was all hands on deck up there, and work on the Temple of Hephaestus was interrupted. Notice how the frieze (decoration under the eave) was only finished on the side facing the agora (it's blank elsewhere). Like the Parthenon, it's a Doric temple, but with none of the refinements (elaborate carvings, fancy math to overcome the optical illusions) of that greater work. It was dedicated to Hephaestus, god of the forge, and was originally surrounded by metal foundries and workshops. These were demolished by the Romans, who surrounded the temple with formal gardens, which are preserved with the same kinds of plants today.

Athenians like to call this temple the "Theseion" because its frieze once featured carved reliefs depicting the feats of Theseus. In Mycenaean lore, Theseus was a superhero — slayer of the Minotaur and savior of Athens. The frieze also depicted the Labors of Hercules.

In A.D. 1300, the temple was converted into the Church of Agios Georgios. The last service held here was on December 13, 1834, in honor of King Otto's arrival in Athens.

There's an exit behind the Temple of Hephaestus for those wanting the smooth, paved walkway up to the Acropolis, rather than the rough climb through the agora.

Wind your way back down, then continue straight toward the stoa. The lane passes three giants on pedestals (described below) before leading back to the Panathenaic Way.

Palace of the Giants: This was once fronted by a line of fierce merman statues (three of which survive today). It's Roman, not Greek — but as one of the few things standing in the agora, it's a popular stop. The so-called "Palace of the Giants" was once a school, or "gymnasium" (which comes from the Greek word for "naked" — young men exercised naked during PE here). A plaque explains the complicated history of this building.

Back at the Panathenaic Way, turn right and walk toward the Acropolis. To the left, just past the Stoa of Attalos, stands the Herulian Wall. This rough wall — made from scrap stone — was thrown up hastily in A.D. 267 in an effort to keep the Herulians at bay.

On the right is the...

Church of the Holy Apostles: This charming little church was built in the 11th century to commemorate St Paul's teaching in the agora. It contains some fine Byzantine frescoes. Enter around the far side. Standing inside, look up at Pancrator God, try a chant (testing to find the rooms' resonant frequency), and notice the remains of the marble altar screen with wide-open spaces — frames that once held icons.

Your tour is finished. Exit the agora uphill from the church (on the way to the Acropolis) or back where you entered.

Acropolis

Even in this age of superlatives, it's hard to overstate the historic and artistic importance of the Acropolis. It's surely the most important ancient sight in the Western world. Crowned by the mighty Parthenon, the Acropolis (literally, "high city") rises gleaming like a beacon above the gray concrete drudgery of modern Athens, a lasting testament to ancient Greece's glorious Golden Age in the fifth century b.c.

The Acropolis has been the heart of Athens since the beginning of recorded time. The first settlers arrived here in neolithic times, drawn by the permanent springs. It developed into a powerful Mycenaean city, associated with the mythical superhero Theseus. The Mycenaeans ruled from a palace that stood between where the Parthenon and the Erechtheion stand today (all that's left is an embankment of huge "Cyclopean" stones).

People lived on the Acropolis until 510 B.C. Then the Delphic Oracle booted them out, ruling that the Acropolis should be dedicated to the gods. Everything on the Acropolis was destroyed by the Persians before the Battle of Salamis (480 B.C.). Athens' improbable victory at Salamis, which followed an equally stunning land victory at Marathon 10 years earlier, saw Athens at the very peak of its power. Cash poured in from other city-states and islands keen to be allied to the winning side. The greatest of ancient architects, Pericles, spared no expense as he set about transforming the Acropolis into a complex of lavishly decorated temples worthy of the city's protector, Athena.

The four major monuments — the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Propylaia and Temple of Athina Nike — survive in remarkably good condition given the battering they've taken over the centuries. The greatest challenge now is to save them from the modern menaces of acid rain and pollution (€12, free on Sun Nov–March and on national holidays). The site is open April–Oct daily 8:00–19:30 and Nov–March daily 8:00–17:30; tel. 210-321-4172, www.culture.gr. The main entrance is at the western side of the Acropolis; a new entrance for people with disabilities is located just to the north. From the Roman Agora in the Plaka, signs point uphill.

Get there early or late to avoid the crowds and midday heat. The place is packed with tour groups from 10:30 to about 13:00. Wear sensible shoes. In summer, it gets very hot on top of the Acropolis, so take a bottle of water as well as a hat and sunscreen. On your way up from the Ancient Agora, consider stopping en route to climb to the top of Mars Hill. Once at the Acropolis entry, the refreshments kiosk outside the entrance is your last opportunity to get a drink. No backpacks or bags are allowed inside (cloakroom just below gate). At the entrance, ask for the substantial and helpful site guide (free but not always offered). At the entrance, you can hire your own tour guide, generally a professional archaeologist (around €80, but you can usually talk them down — or wait a few minutes and split the cost with others). Or simply follow my self-guided tour. There are restrooms at the museum.

A Tour of the Acropolis

The following tour takes you from the entrance to the Acropolis archaeological site, through all the major monuments. Supplement this tour with the free information brochure (ask for it as you enter — described above) and info plaques posted throughout.

Theatre of Herodes Atticus

The path up to the Acropolis from the entrance gate offers a bird's-eye view of the Theater of Herodes Atticus. Atticus was a billionaire Greek benefactor, legendary orator, and friend of Emperor Hadrian. This theater — built in A.D. 161 in memory of Atticus' wife, Regilla — is the most famous of many grand buildings around the country financed by Atticus. It was destroyed by the invading Herulians after about a century, and only reconstructed in the 1950s. Today it's used as a spectacular venue for the annual Hellenic Festival, which features an international line-up of dance, music, and theater performed beneath the stars. The theater, also called the Herodion, is open to the public only during performances. It has a Roman-style stage with the stage wall intact.

As locals climb up past the many olive trees, they sigh, remembering the trees as "the gift of Athena to Athens." Greece has more than 100 million of these trees.

Stop at the base of the grand entry to the Acropolis, at the foot of the many columns of the Propylaia, under the tall, gray stone pedestal with nothing on it. Facing uphill, the Propylaia is before you, the empty pedestal of the Monument of Agrippa is on your left, the Temple of Athena Nike is not on your right (it's been temporarily dismantled for restoration), and the Beulé Gate stands behind you.

Now turn your attention to the...

Grand Entry

The Beulé Gate (you'll walk through it as you exit) is named after French archaeologist Ernest Beulé, who discovered it in 1852 during demolition of a defensive wall built by the Turks. It was built by the Romans in A.D. 267 after the departure of the Herulians, using the rubble of buildings destroyed by the invaders.

While the Monument of Agrippa long gone, its 25-foot-high stone pedestal remains. The grand pedestal gives a good indication of the scale of the bronze statue of the Roman general Agrippa, riding a chariot, that once stood here. It was erected in 27 B.C., after Agrippa's victory in a chariot race at the Panathenaic games.

Unfortunately, the exquisite Temple of Athena Nike has been disassembled. This perfectly-proportioned little temple, which normally stands on a small spur to the right of the Propylaia (as you face uphill), was dismantled in 2003 for renovation work. Gods willing, they'll put it back soon (possibly in 2007).

This is the third time in its 2400-year history that the temple has been taken apart. The Turks pulled it down at the end of the 17th century and used the stone elsewhere, but it was reassembled after independence. It was taken apart for renovations in 1935, and reassembled in 1939. Unfortunately, that work did more harm than good — the steel connecting rods used to hold things together expanded, damaging the stone. This time the restorers are determined to do the job properly, using titanium instead of steel.

The temple's designer Callicrates, one of the architects of the Parthenon, would doubtless be wondering what all the fuss is about. He had to make do with lead when he pieced together the original (427-424 BC). It was built to house a statue thanking Athena for victory (Nike) over the Persians.

The entrance to the Acropolis couldn't be through just any old gate: it had to be the grandest gate ever built. That's the Propylaia, constructed in about 435 BC and laid out in alignment with the Parthenon.

That's the Propylaia, constructed in about 435 B.C. and laid out in alignment with the Parthenon. The Propylaia's large central hallway is flanked by two wings on either side, each with its own gate. The largest gate, in the center, opened onto Panathenaic Way, which was the ceremonial path from the Ancient Agora to the Erechtheion (used for the annual Great Panathenaic Festival, the main event on the city's religious calendar). The Propylaia remained intact until the Franks arrived in the 13th century and converted it into a palace. It later became the home of the Turkish ruler of Athens, and then a storehouse for gunpowder. The Propylaia was seriously damaged in 1645 when the gunpowder magazine was struck by lightning and exploded.

Stepping through the Propylaia, you're greeted by the Parthenon.

Parthenon

The Parthenon is the showstopper — the finest temple in the ancient world, standing like a beacon on the highest point of the Acropolis (about 500 feet above sea level). It's impressive enough today, but just try to imagine how awesome the Parthenon must have looked when it was completed nearly 2,500 year ago. This largest Doric temple in Greece, measuring 101 feet by 228 feet, with eight fluted Doric columns at each end and 17 along each side, was completed in just nine years (447–438 B.C.).

It's big, sure. But what makes the Parthenon truly exceptional is the extraordinary sophistication of the design. Architects Ictinus and Callicrates, working under the supervision of the master sculptor Pheidias, used a whole bag of optical tricks to bring the building to life. Architects know that a long, flat baseline on a building will give the illusion of sagging, and parallel columns will look like they are falling away from each other. To create a building that looked harmonious, the architects actually calculated bends in the construction, taking into consideration the optical illusions and giving the viewer the sense that all was straight and well. The Parthenon actually curves upwards in the middle, and its columns tilt ever so slightly inwards (one of the reasons why the Parthenon has withstood earthquakes so well). If you extended the columns up several miles, they'd eventually touch. Another trick was to use thicker columns at the corners, which made them appear all the same size. It's amazing to think that all this was planned and implemented in stone so long ago.

The Parthenon was built from the very finest materials and decorated with carved scenes of epic tales from Greek mythology created by master sculptors Agoracritos and Alcamenes. The carvings were painted in vivid colors. The best known of these sculptures are the controversial Elgin Marbles, which were removed from the temple's frieze by Englishman Lord Elgin in 1801 and now reside in London's British Museum, despite repeated requests for their return.

The Parthenon housed an enormous gold and ivory statue of Athena Polias ("Athena of the City") that was the work of the master Pheidias himself, completed in 432 B.C. Standing 40 feet high, the statue was considered a wonder of the ancient world. The original (which stood at the end closest to the Propylaia) was taken to Constantinople by the Byzantine emperor Theodosius in A.D. 426, and subsequently vanished. We know what it looked like from a Roman copy (the Athena Varvakeion, on display in Athens' National Archaeological Museum).

The Parthenon survived intact until A.D. 267, when the Herulians hit town. Before moving on, they did some pretty serious looting and plundering. Fortunately they satisfied themselves with demolishing no more than an interior colonnade.

In the fifth century A.D., the temple became a Byzantine Orthodox church, and its interior was decorated with colourful Christian frescoes. It remained a church for almost a thousand years, including a period as a Roman Catholic cathedral under Frankish rule.

In 1458, the Turks arrived and converted the Parthenon into a mosque, adding a minaret. The Turks had no respect for the almost sacred history of the place. They tore down stones just for the lead clamps that held them in place to make bullets. (The exasperated Greeks offered them bullets if they'd stop destroying the temple.) The Turks also used it to store gunpowder, leading to the greatest catastrophe in the temple's long history. In 1687 a Venetian army laid siege to the Acropolis. The Venetians weren't worried about the architecture. As far as they were concerned, it was a lucky hit that triggered the massive explosion which ripped the centre out of the Parthenon and wiped out the Turkish defenders.

Much work has been done in recent times to stabilise and restore the building. The present work began in 1984, meaning that they've been at it twice as long as it took to build it in the first place.

Across the street stands the Erechtheion.

Erechtheion

The Erechtheion — with its much-loved and much-photographed Porch of the Caryatids — was the most important religious building on the Acropolis. It was built in 406 B.C. on the spot where Athena and Poseidon fought for the naming rights to the city. Athena won by producing a olive tree, symbol of prosperity. The temple gets its strange name from a mythical Athenian king called Erechthonius, supposedly buried under the Caryatid porch.

The stones in front of the Caryatid porch, marking the oldest ruins on the Acropolis, are the remains of sixth-century B.C. Archaic buildings. They sit upon a "Cyclopean" foundation built during the Mycenaean period (1400 B.C.). As you approach the Erechtheion (left of Caryatids), you'll see the huge stones of the Mycenaean construction.

The Erechtheion is a complex structure, with three rooms built across a steep slope. The biggest (and least interesting) of these is the main temple, which is divided into two rooms (cellae): one for Athena and one for Poseidon, side-by-side to show that they were still friends. The northern porch, with its six slim, elegant, Ionic columns, is the face that the Erechtheion shows to Plaka. Legend has it that the large crack at the centre of floor was caused by Poseidon's trident during his contest with Athina, but lightening is a more likely culprit.

Finally, we come to the Porch of the Caryatids, facing the Parthenon. It's a wonderfully inspired piece of architecture, with six beautiful maidens functioning as columns. These are faithful copies of the originals, five of which are on display here in the Acropolis museum. The sixth was removed by the sticky-fingered Lord Elgin in 1805, shipped to London (on the same boat as Lord Byron), and currently lives at the British Museum. The Caryatids are so called because they were supposedly modeled on women from the town of Karyai (modern Karyes), near Sparta in the Peloponnese, who were famous for their upright posture and noble character.

The Erechtheion was part of Pericles' grand plan for the Acropolis. But construction was delayed by the outbreak of the Peloponnesian Wars with Sparta. Work began in 421 B.C., and it was finally completed in 395 B.C.

The elevator behind the Erechtheion was constructed for the Paralympics in 2004. It has been kept to lift people with disabilities from the Plaka up to the acropolis.

Continue behind the Acropolis, to the low-profile modern building.

Acropolis Museum

The small museum, housing a wonderful collection of Acropolis statuary, is an essential stop on any visit. Most of the finds actually pre-date the Golden Age and Parthenon. Before the Battle of Salamis, the Persians destroyed the temples standing on the Acropolis. The rubble from these buildings provided a foundation for later building. This so-called "Persian rubble" provided later archaeologists a bonanza of Archaic-period (650-450 B.C.) discoveries that you'll see here.

The first rooms show off these oldest statues. Later, in Room IV, don't miss the beautiful korai (maidens) statues. Room VIII contains about 32 feet of the 525-foot-long Parthenon's frieze — the only section that remained following the 1687 explosion and the visit of stony-souvenir-loving Lord Elgin. It shows part of the Panathenaic procession, including the gods receiving all those offerings (panel 856). The highlight is the last room, featuring four of the five remaining original Caryatids. Modern pollution ground their features down to the rough faces you see today. Photographs from 1950 show these Caryatids with crisp facial features. In half a century of Industrial Age pollution, they experienced more destruction than in the previous 2,000 years. In 1998 they were brought inside, out of the acidic air, so thankfully they'll get no worse.

Just beyond the museum, at the far end of the Acropolis, climb to the base of the dramatic Greek flag.

Acropolis Flag

When the Nazis occupied Athens in April 1941, the evzone who guarded this flag was ordered by the Nazis to remove it. He calmly took it down, wrapped himself in it, and jumped to his death. A few weeks later, two heroic teenagers, Manolis Glezos and Apostolis Santas, scaled the wall, took down the Nazi flag, and raised the Greek flag. This was one of the first well-known acts of resistance against the Nazis, and the boys' bravery is honored by a plaque near the base of the flag. To this day, Greeks see this flag from just about anywhere in Athens and think of their hard-won independence.

From this viewpoint, look inland at Lycabettus Hill, crowned by the Church of St. George. The white bits on the Pentelican Mountains behind are quarries. The monuments of the Acropolis were built of marble quarried from these mountains— and the stone used to restore the monuments comes from these same, still-active quarries. While the new, white patches you see on the buildings as they are restored seem to be a different stone, they're exactly the same, and will age to fit the stately temples of the Acropolis.

Spinning clockwise (to the right), find: The parliament building (facing Syntagma Square), the National Garden behind and to the right of it, the yellow Zappeion, the Panathenaic Stadium, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and Hadrian's Arch. The Aegean Sea glimmers in the distance, beckoning you to the islands (but the only island visible is Aegina). The Parthenon blocks your view of the port of Piraeus (where boats to the islands embark). The Ancient Agora spreads below the Acropolis, and the sprawl of modern Athens paints the surrounding hills in a rash of white.

In 1830, Athens' population was about 5,000. By 1900, it was 600,000. In the 1920s, with the influx of Greeks from Turkey, the population surged to 1.5 million — and the city boomed. With the boom times in the 1950s and 1980s, the city grew to about four million. From this perch, you're looking at the homes of four out of every 10 Greeks. (If that makes you thirsty, there's a water fountain between you and the museum.)

Mars Hill

The knobby, wind-swept hill in front of the Acropolis crawling with tourists is Mars Hill, also known as Areopagus Hill (for Ares, the Greek version of Mars). Mars Hill was where the Apostle Paul — the first great Christian missionary and author of about half of the New Testament — preached to the Athenians. While Athenians were famously open-minded, Paul encountered a skeptical audience and only netted a couple of converts. A new metal staircase is now in place, giving visitors an alternative to the famously slippery stone one. While the views from the Acropolis are even more striking, rugged Mars Hill is also a pleasant perch.

The great religious parades of ancient Athens went up the Panathenaic Way toward the Agora to the Acropolis.

New Acropolis Museum

Inquire locally about a new museum behind the Acropolis (near the Akropoli Metro station). Designed to mimic the dimensions of the actual Parthenon, the new space is intended to lure the famous Elgin Marbles from London's British Museum back to Athens (or, if the Brits won't go for that, maybe a replica). In November of 2006, a retired Swedish gym teacher — whose family had come into possession of a tiny chunk of the Erechtheion Temple — did her part to set a good example by giving her little piece of history back to Athens. The British Museum has repeatedly refused to "give" the marbles to Athens, but has suggested it might be amenable to "loaning" them to the new museum. Stay tuned.

National Archaeological Museum

The National Archaeological Museum is far and away the top ancient Greek art collection anywhere. The museum takes you chronologically from 7,000 B.C. to A.D. 500 through beautifully displayed and described exhibits and in air-conditioned comfort (€7; April–Oct Tue–Sun 8:00–19:30, Mon 13:00–19:30; Nov–March Tue–Sun 8:00–15:00, Mon 10:30–17:00).

It's at Oktovriou-Patission 44, a 10-min walk from Plateia Viktorias Metro station. A taxi between the museum and the Plaka is a steal at €2.50. Tel. 210-821-7717, www.culture.gr. Photos are allowed, but no flash and no goofy poses in front of statues. The delightful basement cafeteria spills out onto a shady and restful courtyard. While there are no audioguides, live guides hang out in the lobby waiting to give you a €50, hour-long tour.

As you tour the museum, keep an eye out for the following highlights.

Prehistory and the Aegeans: The core rooms (3–6, straight ahead from entry) cover prehistory and Aegean civilizations (7000–1050 B.C.). They include artifacts from the Aegean islands (the first city-states) and Troy, wall paintings from Thera, and the treasures of Royal Tombs from Mycenae.

In the side room (room 6, to the right as you enter this section), you'll see early clay fertility symbols--big women, which are basically huge thighs and breasts lumped together and worshipped (from about 5,000 B.C.). Then, 2,000 years later, thin is in as Cycladic fertility symbols evolved from Vaginolins to marble Twiggies (c. 3000 B.C.).

The central room (room 4) shows off the funerary art looted from Mycenaean graves: the famous Mask of Agamemnon, finely decorated weapons, and jewelry, all buried with bodies. Despite all the fuss about the Mask of Agamemnon, it was the beautiful 12th-century B.C. clay krater, or large vase (#1426), that the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann rated as his greatest find. It shows a Ringo Starr–looking woman (on the left) gathered to wave goodbye to a group of warriors heading off to war with their fancy armor and duffle bags hanging from their spears. While this provided the world with its first glimpse of a Mycenaean soldier, it's a timeless scene, repeated countless times in our generation. Nearby, the exquisite Vaphio gold cups (#1758 and #1759, near the back of the room), with scenes of men taming wild bulls, are regarded as the finest examples of Mycenaean art. They were found in a tomb at Vaphio, near Sparta.

Greek Sculpture: Rooms 7–33 (to the left as you enter the museum, then clockwise all the way around) display Greek sculpture from the eighth century B.C. to the fourth century A.D., with many Kouroi (male nudes) and gravestone reliefs. This is the finest collection in existence, allowing you to watch art evolve from stiff, to balanced, to Hellenistic. Walk once around fast for the time-lapse effect: stiff Egyptian, balanced David-like, Golden Age, wet T-shirt, buckin' bronco Hellenistic. Then go around again for a closer look.

The stunning Poseidon of Artemision bronze statue (room 15), cast in 450 B.C., depicts the mighty god of the sea about to hurl his trident. It was discovered in the sea off Cape Artemision in 1928.

Poseidon is searching for a good used trident on eBay.

In room 20 (look for door in room 17 and backtrack slightly), you'll see the most famous copy of the statue of Athena Varvakeion by Pheidias — a one-twelfth-size replica of the one that used to stand in the Parthenon (c. 450 B.C.). It portrays Athena, dressed in flowing golden robes, seated on a throne holding out a small figure of Nike (goddess of victory) in her right hand and a shield in her left.

Also look for the Horse and Jockey of Artemision (room 21), cast in the second century B.C., was discovered at the same time as the statue of Poseidon. The detail is astonishing, right down to the concerned look on the jockey's face.

The museum also includes vases and painted pottery (upstairs, rooms 49–56), bronze statuary (ground floor, rooms 36–39), and Egyptian (rooms 40 and 41).

The museum's second biggest crowd-puller is its collection of magnificent frescos, uncovered at the ancient Minoan settlement of Akrotiri on the island of Santorini (Thira). These are upstairs in room 48.

The museum's pottery collection, also upstairs, traces the development of pottery from the Bronze Age, through the Protogeometric and Geometric periods, to the emergence of the famous Attic black-figured pottery of the sixth century b.c., and red-figured pottery, which reached the peak of perfection during Pericles' rule in the middle of the fifth century b.c.

Other Sights and Museums:

National Gardens — The National Gardens, which extend south from the Boule, are a wonderful cool retreat from the traffic-clogged streets of central Athens. Covering an area of around 40 acres, they were planted in 1839 as the palace gardens, created for the pleasure of Queen Amalia. The gardens were opened to the public in 1923 (free, open daily from dawn to dusk).

Zappeion — Just south of the National Gardens stands the grand mansion known as the Zappeion, surrounded by formal gardens of its own. Finished in 1888, it was designed by the Danish architect Theophilus Hansen, who was known (along with his brother Christian) for his neoclassical designs. The financing was provided by the Zappas brothers, Evangelos and Konstantinos, who were two of the prime movers in the campaign to revive the Olympic Games. It housed the International Olympic Committee during the first modern Olympics in 1896, hosted the fencing competition, and served as a media center during the 2004 Olympics. During the "diaspora" (a period during Ottoman rule), the Greek elite, intelligentsia, and aristocracy fled the country. They returned after independence (1827) and built grand mansions such as this. Today the Zappeion is a conference and exhibition center (gardens free and always open; building only open during exhibitions for a fee, Vas Amalias, Metro: Akropoli or Evangelismos, tel. 210-323-7830). To most Athenians, the Zappeion is best known as the site of the Aigli Village outdoor cinema.

Panathenaic (a.k.a. "Olympic") Stadium — This gleaming marble stadium is a place with many names. Officially it's the Panathinaikos Stadium, built in the fouth century B.C. to host the Panathinaic Games. Sometimes it's referred to as the Roman Stadium, because it was rebuilt by the great Roman benefactor Herodes Atticus in the second century A.D., using the same prized Pentelic marble as used in the Parthenon. It is this magnificent white marble that is responsible for the name that everyone agrees on: Kalimarmara (beautiful marble) Stadium. It was restored to its Roman condition in preparation for the first modern Olympics in 1896. It saw Olympic action again in 2004, when its unique horse-shoe-shaped design provided a grand finish for the marathon. In ancient times, 50,000 filled the stadium without seats. Today, the same number of spectators can sit down.

Temple of Olympian Zeus — This largest temple in ancient Greece took almost 700 years to finish. It was begun late in the 6th century b.c. during the rule of the tyrant Peisistratos. But the task proved beyond him. The temple lay abandoned, half-built, for centuries until the Roman emperor Hadrian arrived to finish the job in A.D. 131. Although only 15 of the original 104 Corinthian columns remain standing, their sheer size (a towering 56 feet high) is enough to create a powerful impression of the temple's scale. The fallen column was toppled by a storm in 1852. The temple once housed a suitably oversized statue of Zeus, head of the Greek gods who lived on Mount Olympus, and an equally colossal statue of Hadrian. While it's enjoyable to wander the ruins, you can pretty much get the gist by looking through the fence (€2, covered by €12 Acropolis ticket, daily May-Sept 8:00-19:30, until 18:00 in shoulder season, until 15:00 off-season, Vas Olgas 1 at Vas Amalias, Metro: Akropoli, tel. 210-922-6330).

Arch of Hadrian — This grand archway lies just west of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, facing the Plaka and Acropolis. Its once-brilliant-white Pentelic marble is stained by the exhaust fumes from some of Athens' worst traffic. It was built by Hadrian in A.D. 132 to celebrate the completion of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and marked the dividing line between the ancient city and Hadrian's new "Roman" city. An inscription on the west side informs the reader, "This is Athens, ancient city of Theseus," while the opposite frieze carries the message, "This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus." This must have been a big deal for Hadrian, as the emperor himself came here to celebrate the inauguration (free, always viewable, Vas Amalias and Dionsiou Areopagitou, Metro: Akropoli).

Central Market — For a colorful and fragrant stroll through work-a-day Athens, sort through the dripping-fresh meat, fish, sticky figs, exotic nuts, spices, and a world of olives at this massive central food market. The market, with lots of immigrant color mixed in, is a barrage on all your senses (Mon–Sat 7:00–15:00, closed Sun, on Athinas between Sofokleous and Evripidou, Metro: Omonia or Monastiraki). Modern-art lovers should pop into the Art Tower, which rises above the market and offers eight stimulating floors of contemporary galleries (free, Wed–Fri 15:00–20:00, Sat 12:00–16:00, closed Sun–Tue, Armodiou 10, tel. 210-324-9626, www.artower.gr).

Keramikas, Athens' ancient cemetery — Named for the ceramics workshops which used to surround it, this is a vast place to wander among marble tombstones from the seventh century B.C. onward (€2, covered by €12 Acropolis ticket, daily in summer 8:00–19:30, until 18:00 or 15:00 off-season, museum doesn't open until 11:00 on Mon, Ermou 148, Metro: Thisio).

Museum of Cycladic Art — The Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art shows off the largest collection of Cycladic art anywhere, collected by one of Greece's richest shipping families. This art of the Aegean city-states, predating the Golden Age by 2,000 years, gives an insight into the matriarchal cultures of the Greek island of Delos, where this great civilization originated. If you like fertility symbols, this museum will float your boat (€5, Mon and Wed–Fri 10:00–16:00, Sat 10:00–15:00, closed Sun, Tue, and many religious holidays, Neofytou Douka 4, Metro: Evangelismos, tel. 210-722-8321, www.cycladic.gr).

Museum of Greek Folk Art — Buried conveniently in the Plaka, this fine little museum offers a classy break from the folk kitsch on sale throughout that neighborhood. Four small floors display four centuries (17th–20th) of embroidery, traditional costumes, carvings, and shadow-theater puppets — all well-described in English. The ethnographic photo essay on the first floor (which has been listed as "temporary" for nearly a decade) is poetic. "In the coffee shop, there is room for everybody and everything: wise political words, incredible nautical tales, and memories." The well-described photos give you a fun trip around the country's most remote and traditional corners. Wonderful folk costumes from each region fill the top floor (€2, Tue–Sun 10:00–14:00, closed Mon, across from the church of Metamorphosis at Kydathineon 17, Metro: Akropoli or Syntagma, tel. 210-322-9031, www.culture.gr).

Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture — This exquisite collection of 36 galleries on four floors takes you on a fascinating air-conditioned walk through the ages. The first exhibit kicks things off by saying, "Around 7000 b.c., the greatest revolution in human experience took place: the change from the hunting-and-gathering economies of the Paleolithic Age to the farming economy of the Neolithic Age...." You'll see fine painted vases, gold wreaths of myrtle leaves worn on heads 2,300 years ago, and evocative Byzantine icons and jewelry. Romantic art depicts Greece's stirring and successful 19th-century struggle for independence (€6, Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat 9:00–17:00, Thu 9:00–24:00, Sun 9:00–15:00, closed Tue, well-described in English, classy rooftop café, Koumbari 1, across from back corner of the National Garden, tel. 210-367-1000, www.benaki.gr). The Benaki gift shop is considered a fine place to buy jewelry.

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art — This new museum, in the Psyrri district, showcases an 8,000-piece collection in two renovated neoclassical buildings. It's one of the few European museums dedicated to Islamic art. Highlights include beautifully painted ceramics, a 10th-century gold belt, a rare 14th-century astrolabe, and an entire marble room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion (€5, Tue and Thu–Sun 9:00–15:00, Wed 9:00–21:00, closed Mon, northeast of Keramikos cemetery at Agion Asomaton 22 at Dipylou, Metro: Thisio, tel. 210-322-5550, www.benaki.gr).

There is yet another Benaki that hosts temporary exhibits with a more modern-contemporary flavor (Benaki "New Museum"/Cultural Center, €3–5, Wed–Thu and Sun 10:00–18:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–22:00, closed Mon–Tue, Pireos 138, tel. 210-345-3111, www.benaki.gr).

Technopolis — Located in the gritty Gazi district, at the western end of the recently pedestrianized Ermou street, this new development was built on a 19th-century gasworks. It hosts an eclectic assortment of cultural events, including art exhibits, rock concerts, and experimental theater. The still-standing smokestacks are illuminated in red after dark, giving an eerie impression of its former industrial activity. The only permanent exhibit within Technopolis is a museum dedicated to diva Maria Callas, who had her heart broken when Ari left her for Jackie O (free, Mon–Fri 10:00–15:00, closed Sat–Sun, Pireos 100, Metro: Thisio, tel. 210-346-7322).

Jewish Museum — Before the Nazi occupation and the near-annihilation of Greece's Jews, many Jewish communities traced their roots back to medieval Spain's Sephardic diaspora and, before that, to classical Greece. The impressive collection highlights Jewish art and artifacts from the fifth century B.C., as well as documentation of the Holocaust (€5, Mon–Fri 9:00–14:30, Sun 10:00–14:00, closed Sat, Nikis 39 at Kydathineon, Plaka, Metro: Syntagma, tel. 210-322-5582, www.jewishmuseum.gr).

Museum of Greek Popular Instruments — This is one of the most entertaining museums in Athens. You can wander around listening to different instruments and styles of music through headphones at each exhibit, as well as examine over 1,200 instruments dating from the 18th century (free, Tue and Thu–Sun 10:00–14:00, Wed 12:00–18:00, closed Mon, Diogenous 1–3, in the Plaka, near Roman Forum, Metro: Monastiraki, tel. 210-325-0198, www.culture.gr).

Byzantine and Christian Museum — Traces the story of the Byzantine Empire, from Emperor Constantine's move from Rome to Byzantium (which he renamed Constantinople, now known as Istanbul) in A.D. 324 until the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks in 1453. It's mostly the story of early Christianity within the story of Byzantium, with exhibits shaped by the notion that "art is more than aesthetics...it's also a testament to a culture." The collection is arranged thematically with exhibits such as the Christianization of pagan temples, Christians in the face of death, and so on (€4, Tue–Sun 8:00–19:30, closed Mon, call ahead to check for periodic closures, Vasilissis Sofias 22, Metro: Evangalismos, tel. 210-721-1027).

National War Museum — This huge museum documents the history of Greek warfare, from Alexander the Great to today. Exhibits feature everything from ancient swords and armor to modern tanks and fighter jets (free, Tue–Sun 9:00–14:00, closed Mon, scant English descriptions but audioguide available, Rizari 2–4 at Vasilissis Sofias, Metro: Evangelismos, tel. 210-725-2975).

Shopping

Flea Market — The famous Monastiraki Flea Market stretches west of Monastiraki Square, along Ifestou and its side streets. It's a fun place for tourists and pickpockets to browse, but it's not ideal for buying gifts for the friends back home — unless they like flea-bitten junk. You'll see fake designer clothes, antiques, dusty books, and lots of stuff that might raise eyebrows at the airport (something going on every day, but best on Sun 8:00–15:00, Metro: Monastiraki or Thisio).

Souvenirs — There are countless souvenir shops in the Plaka area, mainly along Adrianou and Pandrossou, selling the full range of tourist paraphernalia: T-shirts, calendars, playing cards, plaster copies of famous statues, and so on. Competition is hot between shops, so there's room to bargain — especially if you're buying several items.

Jewellery — Serious buyers tell me that Athens is the best place in Greece to buy jewelry, particularly at the shops along Adrianou. The choices are much better than you'll find elsewhere, and — if you know how to haggle — so are the prices. The best advice is to take your time, and don't be afraid to walk away. The sales staff gets paid by commission, and they hate to lose a potential customer. Most of the stores have a similar selection, which they buy from factory wholesalers. More special artist-owned shops include Byzantino, which specializes in handmade replicas of museum pieces. They also made the jewelry worn by Greek dancers in the closing ceremonies of the 2000 Sydney Olympics (daily 10:00-21:00, sometimes later in summer, closes earlier in winter, Adrianou 120, tel. 210-324-6605, run by Kosta and American Laura). The Benaki Museum gift shop is also popular for jewelry.

Sandals — The place to buy real leather sandals is Melissinos Art, the famous "poet sandal-maker" of Athens. You'll find an assortment of styles priced from €15-35 per pair, depending on the size, not the style. The more leather they use, the more you pay — the old-fashioned way (Mon–Sat 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–16:00, just off Monastiraki Square at Aghias Theklas 2, tel. 210-321-9247, www.melissinos-art.com). Stavros Melissinos — who's also a poet (pick up the free copies of his poems) — has been doing this for decades. Now his son Pantelis (also a painter and playwright) is taking over the family business. When the Beatles came to his shop in 1968, Stavos was asked why he didn't ask for their autographs. He replied, "Why did they not ask for mine? I will be around long after the Beatles." He was right.

Carpets — The shops around the Plaka sell Turkish-style carpets, but generally don't stock Greek ones. For Greek carpets, look at the National Welfare Organization's Hellenic Folk Art Gallery, a block behind the TI. It has a good selection of shaggy flokati carpets, as well as knotted carpets, colorful kilims, and cushion covers embroidered with traditional folk designs. What's more, the profits go toward preservation of traditional handicrafts (Tue–Fri 9:00–20:00, Mon and Sat 9:00–15:00, closed Sun, Filelinon 14, tel. 210-325-0240).

Nightlife

Strolling — The big news for people who enjoy an evening stroll is the Dionysiou Areopagitou, a wonderful and instantly popular new pedestrian boulevard arcing around the back side of the Acropolis. As the sun goes down, it's busy with locals (lovers, families, seniors, children at play) and visitors alike. You can actually walk entirely around the Acropolis, although much of the circuit is rougher than this fine paved stretch.

Outdoor Cinema - The Aigli Village Cinema is a cool, classic outdoor theater in the National Gardens (at the Zappeion), playing the latest blockbusters with a great sound system (call 210-336-9369 for schedule and to see if it's played with original soundtrack). Cine Paris is another large outdoor movie venue, and comes with the added bonus of an Acropolis view (in the Plaka and on the roof of Kydathineon 22, tel. 210-324-8057).

Psyrri Nightlife Zone — Psyrri, until recently famous only for being run-down, has emerged as the trendy nightclub, café, and restaurant zone. As the rustic old crafts shops survive, the mix of trendy and crusty gives the area a unique charm. The best action is around three squares: Agion Asomaton, Iroon, and Agion Anargyron.

Folk Dancing — The Dora Stratou Theater on Filopappos Hill is the place to go for real folk dancing. The company — the best in Greece — was originally formed to record and preserve the country's many traditional dances. Their repertoire includes such favorites as the graceful kalamatianos circle dance, the syrtaki (immortalized by Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek), and the dramatic solo zimbetikos (€15, late May–late Sept Tue–Sat at 21:30, Sun 20:15, no show Mon, 80 min, Dora Stratou Theater, Filopappos Hill, signposted from western end of Dionysiou Areopagitou, Metro: Akropoli, tel. 210-324-4395, after 19:30 call 210-921-4650, www.orchesis-portal.org/grdance/index.php).

Sleeping

Although there are dozens of hotels around central Athens, prices are steep and good values are rare. Small, inexpensive hotels in the Plaka are few, listed in all the guidebooks, and filled with other tourists. Reserve ahead, especially in the summer months. If you're organized and planning in advance, it's worth checking out the hotel brochures at U.S. travel agencies.

You'll probably find cheaper deals (special rates offered to travel agencies or groups) for some of the hotels listed here. But don't be sucked in by some of the very cheap, too-good-to-be-true deals: Most of those are located in the sleazy suburbs around Omonia Square, or down in the coastal suburbs of Glyfada and Voula — far from the places you've come to see. You'll pay a premium to stay near the Acropolis...and it's worth it.

Consider using a Greek travel agency to find you a room. They know the city well, and these two places have a good reputation for their customer service: Fantasy Travel (south of Syntagma Square at Xenofontos 8, tel. 210-322-8410, fax 210-322-2624, www.fantasytravelofgreece.com) and Dolphin Hellas Travel (in Makrigianni at Syngrou 16, tel. 210-922-7772, fax 210-923-2101, www.greecetravel.com/dolphinhellas).Hotels give low rates to travel agencies to encourage them to send their clients. So the perception that you save money by booking directly with the hotel is a false one. By booking with a reliable Greek travel agency you can get the hotel and the services of the travel agency for ferry tickets, schedules, tours, and information. If you go to www.hotelsofgreece.com, every C-category hotel in the Athens section is within a half mile of the Acropolis or the Plaka and is less than €100 a night for a double.

One final word: Athens is a noisy city, and Athenians like to stay out late. I've tried to recommend places in quieter areas, but that's not always possible. Many hotels renovated for the Olympics, adding "soundproof" doors and windows that can be successful at blocking out noise. Still, light sleepers should be ready to use earplugs.

North of the Acropolis — Monastiraki, Plaka and Syntagma

Hotel Grande Bretagne , a five-star place with 320 sprawling and elegantly furnished rooms, is considered the best hotel in Greece. It's the place to head if you have royal blood — or wish you did — and feel like being treated that way for a few days. Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads of state, it ranks among the grand hotels of the world. It became a hotel in 1874, and it still retains its 19th-century elegance. No other hotel in Athens can boast such a rich history (Sb/Db-€275-330 depending on season, American-style breakfast-€28, air-con, elevator, overlooking Syntagma Square at Vassileos Georgiou 1, Metro: Syntagma, tel. 210-333-0000, fax 210-322-8034, www.grandebretagne.gr, info@grandebretagne.gr). If you'd rather just eat here, consider their rooftop restaurant (described below).

Hotel Plaka and Hotel Hermes are good business-class hotels well-located in the Plaka. They're both owned by the same company, and have rooms at the same price. Hotel Plaka has a rooftop bar/terrace and 66 nicely appointed modern rooms with older bathrooms, while Hotel Hermes has 45 even newer, nicer rooms on a quiet street a little less convenient to the ancient sights, and closer to Syntagma. Both have smart public spaces, air-conditioning, and elevators (Sb-€120, Db-€145, Tb-€165, 30 percent cheaper Nov–March, check for other promotions online — mostly for longer stays; Hotel Plaka is at the corner of Mitropoleos and Kapnikarea, tel. 210-322-2096, fax 210-322-2412, www.plakahotel.gr, plaka@tourhotel.gr; Hotel Hermes is at Apollonos 19, tel. 210-323-5514, fax 210-3222-412, www.hermeshotel.gr, hermes@tourhotel.gr).

Hotel Adonis, a slightly overpriced budget hotel with 26 retro-simple rooms, stands on the quiet, traffic-free upper reaches of Kodrou, right in the heart of the Plaka. It's a popular place, and is often booked long in advance, especially in the summer. The rooms on the fourth floor have good views of the Acropolis, as does the rooftop bar (Sb-€59, Db-€86, Tb-€110, cheaper for 3 nights or longer, 40 percent cheaper Nov–March, cash only, air-con, elevator, includes roof-terrace breakfast, Kodrou 3, Metro: Syntagma, tel. 210-324-9737, fax 210-323-1602, www.hotel-adonis.gr, info@hotel-adonis.gr, owner Spiros).

Hotel Attalos, an 80-room budget standby, is located on a slightly scruffy street just a quick stroll north of the Monastiraki Metro station. It's also just a 15-minute walk to the Acropolis, near the Central Market and the hip Psyrri nightlife scene (Sb-€80, Db-€105, Tb-€130, Qb-€160, €8 less per person without breakfast, cheaper Nov-March, air-con, elevator, friendly and knowledgeable staff, Parthenon-view rooftop bar, Athinas 29, tel. 210-321-2801, fax 210-324-3124, www.attaloshotel.com, atthot@hol.gr).

Hotel Tempi, well-run by friendly Yiannis and Katerina, offers traditional hospitality at prices that won't break the bank. It's popular and family-run, with 24 humble but clean and comfortable rooms on a quiet pedestrians-only section of Eolou street, just 250 yards from Monastiraki Metro station. Ask for a room at the front — they come with balconies that overlook the flower markets on Plateia Agia Irini and have views of the Acropolis (S-€38, Sb-€48, D-€54, Db-€60, Tb-€75, cheaper Nov-March, air-con, lots of stairs and no elevator, communal kitchen/breakfast room but no breakfast provided, Eolou 29, tel. 210-321-3175, fax 210-325-4179, www.travelling.gr/tempihotel, tempihotel@travelling.gr).

Hotel Phedra, overlooking a peaceful square of ancient ruins and a Byzantine Church, has institutional hallways but 21 nicely appointed rooms well-located in the Plaka (Sb-€60, D-€60, Db-€70, Tb-€90, less off-season, breakfast-€7 extra, air-con, elevator, 2 blocks from Hadrian's Arch at Lissikratous 6, tel. 210-323-8461, fax 210-322-7795).

The Student & Travellers' Inn, affiliated with Hostelling International, is the best backpacker place in the Plaka, and the perfect spot to meet up with other young travelers. The 33 rooms come in all shapes and sizes, from dorms with communal bathrooms to private, air-conditioned rooms (dorm beds-€18-22 depending on size of room, Sb-€50, Db-€60, Tb-€75, prices 20 percent cheaper Nov–March, breakfasts start at €3, open 24 hours, air-con, no elevator, Internet access, courtyard bar, Kydathineon 16, Metro: Syntagma, tel. 210-324-4808, fax 210-321-0065, www.studenttravellersinn.com, info@studenttravellersinn.com). An in-house travel agency specializes in trips to the Greek islands.

Farther Afield, South of the Acropolis

Marble House Pensionis a small, family-run place with 16 cozy rooms. Hidden away behind a brilliant red bougainvillea vine at the end of a cul-de-sac, it has to be the quietest hotel in Athens. It's well worth the walk (Sb-€42, Db-€48, Tb-€55, cheaper mid-Oct–mid-March or in doubles and triples with bathroom down the hall, breakfast-€5, ceiling fans, 10-min walk from Syngrou-Fix Metro at Zini 35a, tel. 210-923-4058 or 210-922-8294, fax 210-922-6461, www.marblehouse.gr, info@marblehouse.gr).

Eating

Around Syntagma Square

Neon Café, a slick, modern, cafeteria-style eatery facing Syntagma Square, is designed for the traveler in a hurry. You'll find a daily selection of Greek favorites as well as salads and pastas. While not particularly cheap, it's efficient and air-conditioned. Head upstairs for a non-smoking section with a view (€2.50-4 sandwiches, €4-5 salads, €6-7 main dishes, daily 7:00–1:00 in the morning, on the southwestern side of Syntagma Square at Mitropoleos 3, tel. 210-324-6873).

Fast Food Eleni, , west of Syntagma on unglamorous Perikleos, is one of central Athens' best-kept secrets. Most of the customers are workers from the surrounding shops and offices, who come here for the daily specials (such as roast pork with lemon and potatoes, €6) as well as for the fast food (Mon–Sat 11:00–17:00, closed Sun, 200 yards west of Syntagma Square at Perikleos 19, under the big bye-bye sign).

Hotel Grande Bretagne's Roof Garden Restaurant is considered by many the finest chance in town to dine on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine in pure elegance — on a roof garden with spectacular Acropolis and city views. If you don't want such an expensive meal, drop by their bar for a drink (€15-30 pastas, €30-40 main dishes, daily 13:00-1:00 in the morning, reservations required for meals, "smart casual" dress code, north side of Syntagma Square, tel. 210-333-0766).

Around Plaka

Diners — Greeks and tourist alike — flock to the Plaka. The food is generally mediocre, but the Plaka makes up fot that in ambiance. Unless stated otherwise, all the restaurants listed here are open daily for lunch and dinner. Credit cards are not always accepted, so bring cash.

Taverna O Thespis is a rare place that feels like the good old days in the Plaka. It's tucked away above the crowds up quiet Thespidos street, with tables cascading down a series of breezy terraces. Dine on traditional specialties like bekri meze — pork with spicy sauce (€8-12 main dishes, daily 11:00–24:00, Thespidos 18, tel. 210-323-8242).

Taverna tou Psara is another good bet just above the hustle and bustle. The appetizers here are especially good: You can order a good selection of mezedes (appetizers, €3-13) and forget about a main course. This sprawling eatery has seating in two kitty-corner buildings, plus tables on the atmospheric street between them. The outdoor terrace (accessed through one of the buildings) has views over Athens' rooftops and live folk music nightly except Tuesdays from 21:00 (€6-14 main dishes, daily 11:00–24:00, signposted off Tripodon at Eretheos 16, tel. 210-321-8734).

The 5 Brothers Taverna has an unremarkable dining room. But the tables stretching up toward the Tower of the Winds, with the Acropolis in the background, offer some of the most memorably scenic outdoor seating in the Plaka. If you don't snag a table with a good view, don't bother (€5-12 main dishes, daily 9:30-1:00 in the morning, Eolou 3, tel. 210-325-0088).

Restaurant Hermion is a dressy wicker place tucked away in a quiet arcade off traffic-free Pandrosou, offering a choice of outdoor seating in a small, private square, or a cool air-conditioned interior. Under a canvas canopy surrounded by potted plants, you forget you're in a big city. The menu offers a large range of salads, and lots of fish (€11-26 main dishes, daily 12:00–1:00 in the morning; with back to cathedral, leave the square downhill to the left, going 50 yards down Pandrosou to Hermion sign, then follow arcade passageway to Pandrosou 15; tel. 210-324-7148).

Shola Rhio Ouzeri Kouklis is a fun, inexpensive place ideal for groups wanting to try a variety of traditional mezedes and drink good homemade booze on a breezy perch at the top of the Plaka. Since 1935, the Kouklis family has been making ouzo liquor (that's what an ouzeri is) and running their restaurant — which maintains a 1930s atmosphere to this day. The waiter comes around with a big platter of dishes, and you choose what you like (€2.50-5 per plate). Drinks are cheap, dessert is free, and the four-person €48 special is worth considering. As the plates are pretty big, this is most fun with a group of four or more. It's in all the guidebooks--hardly a local scene, but still enjoyable (Mon–Sat 11:00–24:00, closed Sun, under the Acropolis at Tripodon 14 and Lisiou, tel. 210-324-7605).

To Kafeneio, just below Ouzeri Kouklis, is another good choice, with a traditional atmosphere — air-conditioned in the summer and fireplace-cozy in the winter. If you sit outside, the steep angle of the street may have you rethinking that second glass of ouzo. Like their bigger rival across the street, the menu is mostly mezedes (€3.50-7 appetizers, daily 11:00–24:00, Epiharmou 1 at Tripodon, tel. 210-324-6916). Don't confuse this restaurant in the Plaka with another, similarly named eatery in the Kolonaki district.

Platanos Taverna, on a peaceful courtyard next to the Museum of Greek Popular Instruments, is a good place for a quiet, unhurried meal. The interior decor has a 1940s feel, with interesting old pictures — but in good weather, I'd rather eat outside under the plane trees (€6-10 main dishes, Mon–Sat 12:00–16:30 & 19:30–24:00, closed Sun, Diogenous 4, tel. 210-322-0666).

Eden Vegetarian Restaurant, Athens' first vegetarian eatery (since 1982), enjoys mixing Greek and international dishes. The creative and inviting menu offers vegetarian versions of such Greek favorites as mousakas and stifado (€7-9 main dishes, Wed–Mon 12:00–24:00, closed Tue, Lyssiou 12, tel. 210-324-8858).

Fast Food and Picnics

On Monastiraki Square: The best place to head for fast food is the bottom end of Mitropoleos, where it meets Monastiraki Square. This is souvlaki heaven, with several frantic restaurants spilling into the street keeping hordes of hungry, mostly local eaters happy. Meat shaved from a gyro is cheaper. A gyro or a single-souvlaki sandwich wrapped in a pita to go runs about €1.60 — they can fill and wrap a pita before you can blink. Or you can sit down to a plate of four souvlaki (plus pita bread, onions, and tomatoes) for around €8. Also for around €8, you get a pile of sis kebabs on pita bread. Unfortunately, the cheap sandwiches don't come with tzatziki, the thick, garlicky yogurt-and-cucumbers sauce — you'll have to order it separately (mysteriously, the sauce costs about as much as the sandwich itself). Greek salads are hearty, and the wine, beer, and ouzo is cheap. Two popular options face each other from across the street: Thanasis is famous for its special souvlaki, made from a traditional recipe that combines ground beef and lamb with Thanasis' secret blend of seasonings (daily 10:00–2:00 in the morning, Mitropoleos 69, tel. 210-324-4705). Savas, is another old favorite with a similar menu and a little less character (daily 10:00–3:00 in the morning, Mitropoleos 86, tel. 210-324-5048).

Markets: The lively Central Market is about 500 yards north of Plateia Monastirakiou on Athinas. You'll find the best and cheapest selection of whatever's in season at the fruit and vegetable stalls, which spread downhill to the left, flanked by shops selling feta from the barrel and a dozen different kinds of olives. The meat and fish markets are housed in the neoclassical building across the street, behind a row of shops specializing in dried fruit and nuts. Try the roasted almonds and the delicious white figs from the island of Evia. There are no big supermarkets close to the Plaka, but there are several small grocery stores that stay open long hours (7:00–22:00) and stock enough to throw together a decent picnic. To the south of the Acropolis, try Veropoulos (Mon–Fri 8:00–20:00, Sat 8:00–6:00, closed Sun, just uphill from Veikou at Parthenonos 6).

Ariston is one of the best places for spanakopita (spinach pie), tiropita (cheese pie), kreatopita (lamb pie), and meletzanitopita (eggplant pie). This is the cheapest and most filling meal in town, and much healthier than a souvlaki. It's been open since 1910 and also offers a wide assortment of pastries (2 blocks from Syntagma at Voulis 10).

Transportation Connections

 

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport

Athens is served by Elefthérios Venizélos International Airport at Spata, 17 miles east of Athens (tel. 210-353-0000, www.aia.gr). Olympic Airways (www.olympic-airways.gr) flies to Iraklio on Crete (6/day), Paros (3/day), Naxos (1/day), Sámos (3/day), and Santorini/Thira (4/day). Olympic's head office is at Leoforos Syngrou 96 (tel. 210-356-9111, toll-free tel. 801-114-4444), but you're better off using a travel agent. Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com) has flights to Iraklio (6/day) and Santorini/Thira (4/day). Aegean has an office on Syntagma Square (Othonos 10, tel. 210-331-5502, toll-free tel. 801-112-0000).

There are several ways to get between the airport and downtown: Metro Line 3 zips you downtown in 45 minutes for €8. Express bus #E95 operates 24 hours daily between the airport and Syntagma Square (about 2/hr, 60–90 min depending on traffic). The downtown bus stop is outside the National Gardens on Amalias, on the eastern side of Syntagma Square. Bus #E96 operates between the airport and Plateia Karaiskaki in Piraeus (also runs 24 hrs daily, about every 40 min). A ticket for either bus costs €3, and is valid for 24 hours on all Athens transit. A taxi costs €25-30, depending on traffic. People on package trips are met at the airport by a cabbie who takes them to their hotel and helps get them settled in for about €75. Recently private English-speaking cabbies have been providing this same service to anyone for about €55.

By Boat from Piraeus

Piraeus, six miles southwest of central Athens, has been the port of Athens since ancient times. Today it's the main port for services to the Greek islands, making it the busiest passenger port in the Mediterranean.

Orientation: All ferry, hydrofoil, and catamaran services leave from Great Harbor (Megas Limin), which is the largest of three harbors surrounding the Piraeus Peninsula. Zea Marina (Limin Zeas) and the picturesque Mikrolimano (small harbor), on the eastern side of the peninsula, are for private yachts. The action at Great Harbor is centered on chaotic Plateia Karaiskaki, which juts out into the harbor right at the middle of the waterfront.

Getting to Piraeus: The Metro is by far the easiest way to get between Piraeus' Great Harbor and central Athens. There are trains to Monastiraki every 10 minutes between 6:00–24:00 (trip takes about 40 min). Warning: The section between Piraeus and Monastiraki is notorious for pickpockets, so take extra care of your valuables and wear a money belt. In Piraeus, the Metro and train stations are 100 yards apart at the northeastern corner of the waterfront on Akti Kalimassioti. Bus #E96, connecting Piraeus to the airport, arrives and departs at the southwestern corner of Plateia Karaiskaki. There are no intercity buses to or from Piraeus.

Ferry Connections: For the latest information on ferry services pick up a weekly schedule from the Greek National Tourist Organization offices in Athens or at the airport. You can also check out the extremely helpful website managed by all the big ferry companies, www.openseas.gr. Inquire locally about ferry departure points in the immediate area.

Can you spare a euro?

To the Cyclades: Paros (6/day, 5 hrs), Naxos (6/day, 6 hrs), Santorini/Thira (4/day, 9 hrs). The best service is offered by Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com). Its comfortable and modern boats are fitted with special stabilizers that provide a very smooth ride and enable them to keep sailing in winds of up to "force nine" on the local Beaufort scale.

To Crete: Iraklio (2/day, 10 hrs). The sleek Minoan Lines fleet (www.minoan.gr) is better than ANEK Lines (www.anek.gr).

To the Saronic Gulf Islands: Aegina (hrly, 1.25 hrs), Poros (4/day, 2.5 hrs), Hydra (2/day, 3.5 hrs), and Spetses (1/day, 4.5 hrs).

To the North-East Agean Islands: Sámos (2/day, 13 hrs).

Hydrofoil and Catamaran Connections: Faster hydrofoils and catamarans also leave from Piraeus.

To the Cyclades: Paros (2/day, 3.5 hrs), Naxos (1/day, 4 hrs), and Santorini/Thira (1/day, 4.75 hrs). All these services are operated by Hellas Flying Dolphins (tel. 210-419-9000, www.dolphins.gr).

To the Saronic Gulf Islands: Aegina (hrly, 35 min), Poros (4/day, 1 hr), Hydra (6/day, 1.75 hrs), and Spetses (6/day, 2.5 hrs). Most of these services are operated by Hellas Flying Dolphins (see above).

To the Northeast Agean: Sámos (6/wk, 7 hrs). This service is operated by Nel Lines (www.nel.gr) using the futuristic-looking Aeolis Express, which is technically a high-speed ferry rather than a catamaran.

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For more information on Greece, check out our Athens & the Heart of Greece tour! And watch our Guidebook Arrivals for publication of Rick Steves' Athens and the Peloponnesian Peninsula, coming in 2009.

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