Journey along an Ancient Spanish Pilgrimage Route
By Jason Peel
El Camino de Santiago, an ancient pilgrimage route in the north of Spain, is your answer for an adventure-packed vacation full of undiscovered Back Door sights. I completed the "Way of St. James" (as coined by English guidebooks) from the traditional beginning point in the Spanish-French border town of Roncesvalles, to the final destination of Santiago de Compostela in the Galician province of northwestern Spain. Two friends of mine and I packed our rucksacks (lightly) and completed the 465 miles in 28 days.
It sounds like an overwhelming physical undertaking, but we were by no means trained athletes or overenthusiastic adventurers. We were looking for something different, a way to experience Spain, not just visit it, and what we received was an experience of a lifetime which gave us just enough physical and mental challenge to make the trip seem like an incredible achievement.
We walked the 465 miles, but encountered many cyclists, joggers and motor vehicles following the same route. We averaged 9 to 12 miles a day and spent the night in the modern refugios, which charge a very minimal fee — if any. Most days we began walking around 6:00 am and reached our destination by 1:00 pm that day, just in time for a menu de peregrino (pilgrim lunch) at the local bar.
What I enjoyed was the feeling of being a world trekker. We were celebrities in most small towns, and many locals took special care of us in many small towns.
The gastronomic differences we encountered each day were also part of the adventure. A highlight was the pulpo (octopus) festival in Protomarin, Spain.
Architecture and history lovers will delight over the many different styles of churches and cathedrals we literally walked by. The Camino was the lifeline of northern Spain during the reign of the Moors for over 700 years. And a very strong religious or spiritual experience is almost unavoidable. The camaraderie with complete strangers, and your closeness to history as you walk a 1000-year-old route, clears your mind and makes you more aware of your surroundings.
Pilgrims comes in many shapes and sizes. We met families, individuals and groups of people from all over the world — Germans, French, Brazilians (inspired by a book by a famous Brazilian author, Paulo Coelho), and many Kiwis from New Zealand.
There are no rules associated with the Camino. Many people complete only a short stage of the overall trail and nowhere is it written that you cannot hop on a bus if you are tired or behind schedule.
Jason is a contributor to Rick's Graffiti Wall, where travelers can leave feedback and tips on their recent excursions.