Caesar's Rome
See more travel details for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks.
Hi, I'm Rick Steves, taking a break from guiding tours to be your travel partner. This time we return to Rome. This is the ancient Appian Way — Europe's first super highway. The gates of Imperial Rome are a two-mile chariot ride that way.
Our focus for this return visit: Classical Rome, once the capital of the Western world. We'll marvel at the biggies — the Colosseum... the Pantheon... its sumptuous art. Then we'll go offbeat and bicycle to see the Appian Way, ancient Christian catacombs and marvels of Roman engineering.
Rome can feel overwhelming. We'll take it slowly, starting where the city did — in the Forum — and try to resurrect all this ancient rubble.
In a nutshell, classical Rome lasted about a thousand years: roughly 500 BC to 500 AD. It grew for 500 years, peaked for 200 years and fell for 300 years. The first half was a republic — run by elected senators, the last half an empire — run by unelected emperors.
In its glory days, the word Rome meant not the city but what Romans considered the entire civilized world.
Everyone was either Roman or barbarian. People who didn't speak Latin or Greek sounded to the Romans almost like animals: like they were saying bar-bar-bar... barbarians.
The legendary founders of Rome were two brothers — Romulus and Remus — abandoned in the wilderness and suckled by a she wolf. Eventually, they started their city.
In actuality, the first Romans mixed and mingled here, in what became the Forum. In 509 BC they tossed out their king, established a relatively democratic Roman Republic, and began what was perhaps history's greatest success story.
The Temples of Hercules, Victor, and Portunus — built about three centuries before Christ — are from the time of the Republic.
From the start, Rome had a knack for effective government. This simple-looking building was once veneered with marble. It's the Curia. The senate met here and set the legal standards that still guide western civilization.
The reign of Julius Caesar marked the turning point between the Republic and the Empire. The Republic — designed to rule a small city state — found itself trying to rule most of Europe. Something new and stronger was needed. Caesar established a no-nonsense, more disciplined government, became dictator for life, and for good measure, had a month named in his honor... July.
In an attempt to save the republic and their political power, a faction of Roman senators assassinated Caesar. His body was burned on this spot in 44 BC.
The citizens gathered here on Rome's main square to hear Mark Antony say; in Shakespeare's words, "Friends, Romans, countrymen... lend me your ears, I have come to bury Caesar, not to praise him." But the Republic was finished and Rome became the grand capital of a grand empire.
The Via Sacra or Sacred Way was the main street of ancient Rome. It stretched from the Arch of Septimius Severus to the Arch of Titus.
Rome's triumphal arches show how war and expansion were the business of state. Rome's thriving economy was fueled by plunder and slaves won in distant wars.
The Arch of Titus celebrated the Roman victory over the rebellious Jews of Judea — modern-day Israel — in 70 AD. The Jewish menorah and the arc of the covenant are being toted away by the victorious Romans. The propaganda message was clear: Rome was the only superpower of its day.
A gelato break makes sorting through Rome's history more fun. And you're never far from a good gelateria. According to their loyal customers — Giolitti serves the best in town.
While ice cream is cream-based and richer, gelato is milk-based allowing the flavor to pop right through.
Okay, let's take a few more licks at the story of Rome. A visit to Rome's Capitoline Museum puts you curbside for a victory parade down the Via Sacra.
The conquering generals roll down the street with carts of booty... triumphant horns blare while citizens ooh and ahh at the plunder of conquered lands. The captive king is led by in handcuffs.
And then Marcus Aurelius, the Eisenhower of the day, rolls through on his four-horse chariot... rose petals strewn in his path.
The Dying Gaul is a Roman copy of a Greek original made in the 3rd century BC. It was used as propaganda — part of a monument celebrating a victory over the barbarians.
You can ponder scenes of Romans slaughtering barbarians and look into the eyes of now-forgotten emperors.
And the museum also shows a more peaceful and intimate side of Roman life. Here's a boy quietly pulling a thorn from his foot.
At first glance these look like paintings, but a closer look shows they're micro-mosaics, made of thousands of tiny fragments. This one hung in Emperor Hadrian's Villa.
The Capitoline Venus, another Roman copy of a Greek original, is one of the truest representations of the concept of feminine beauty from ancient times.
And this statue, called the Drunken Faun, is a playful reminder that a thread of ancient Rome that survives today is a fondness for good food and fine wine.
Travelers can enjoy better restaurants without going broke by indulging in the appetizers and first courses. I find the antipasti and pasta dishes more varied and interesting than the more expensive secondi or entree courses. We're starting with a table full of antipasti... fried zucchini flowers, fresh mozzarella, marinated eggplant and more. In Rome, smart diners eat with the seasons.
And now the pasta…even in early May it's plenty warm to dine outside. Dinner within splashing distance of a tub from the ancient Baths of Caracalla caps a perfectly Roman day.
Rome's subway system, with just two lines, is easy to use. And it's helpful for sightseeing. From our hotel, it's a straight shot to the Colosseum. Colosseo — that's our stop.
The Colosseum was — and still is — colossal. It's THE great example of ancient Roman engineering. It was begun in 80 AD during the reign of Emperor Vespasian when the Empire was at its peak.
Using Roman-pioneered concrete, brick, and their trademark round arches, Romans constructed much larger buildings than the Greeks.
But, it seems, they still respected the fine points of Greek culture. They decorated their no-nonsense mega-structure with all three Greek orders of columns — Doric... Ionic... and Corinthian.
It's built as two theaters built together — that's an amphitheater — so twice as many people could enjoy the entertainment.
Romans filled and emptied the Colosseum's 50,000 seats as quickly and efficiently as we do our super-stadiums. Canvas awnings were hoisted over the stadium to give fans shade.
These passageways underneath the arena were covered by a wooden floor. Between acts animals and gladiators were shuffled around out of sight.
Ancient Romans, whose taste for violence exceeded even modern America's, came to the Colosseum to unwind. Gladiators, criminals, and wild animals fought to the death providing the public with a festival of gore. To celebrate the Colosseum's grand opening, Romans were treated to the slaughter of 5,000 animals.
For a reenactment, let's get touristy. Doomed gladiators would look up at the emperor and say:
"Ave Caesar! Before we die... we salute you."
Today, descendants of the survivors, pose with tourists... for a price.
Trajan's Column trumpets the glories of Emperor Trajan who ruled Rome in its heyday. Like a 200 yard long scroll, it winds all the way to the top. The purpose: propaganda... telling of a military victory by Trajan. He extended the boundaries of the empire to its greatest size ever....
...from the Nile to the north of Britain. Controlling its entire coastline, Romans called the Mediterranean simply "mare nostrum… Our Sea."
Great emperors like Trajan and Marcus Aurelius ruled during the Pax Romana. This "Roman Peace" — the first two centuries after Christ — was a time of stability, prosperity and a steady succession of capable rulers.
It was tradition that an emperor's son — no matter how inept — would succeed him. Luckily for Rome, for a long period no emperors had sons. They would, instead, adopt the man most fit to rule. When the emperor died, his adopted son would take over. In the 2nd century, Trajan, Hadrian, and Marcus Aurelius were all adopted sons... and great emperors.
I feel the grandeur of ancient Rome here, where the mammoth Basilica of Constantine once stood. Basilicas were communal meeting halls — places to conduct business or just schmooz.
This huge barrel vault was just a side niche. Now look at the nub of that broken arch and extend the roof all the way across this vacant lot. Now fill in the basilica with rich marble, a gilded ceiling and toga-clad Romans.
Hard to imagine? A visit to the National Museum at the Palazzo Massimo helps. While ancient Rome's architecture was grand, its citizens were just people... like you and me... without electricity.
These frescoes — a rare example of Roman painting — show daily life. Romans liked to think of themselves as somehow living parallel with the gods... domestic scenes come with a twist of mythology.
This painted garden — wallpapering a Roman villa — created an atmosphere of majestic relaxation.
Looking at artifacts of Rome's elite, from exquisite jars to sumptuous jewelry, we can only marvel at lifestyles of the rich and Roman.
Let Rome's art tell the empire's story: Caesar Augustus was the nephew of Julius Caesar and first great emperor of the Pax Romana. Looking into the eyes of the man who called himself "the first among equals", you get the feeling that the ship of state was in good hands.
With this statue, it's clear... Rome was falling. This boy is about to become head of state. It was a chaotic time. Eighteen emperors were assassinated in a 50-year period. Surrounded by nervous senators, this kid's not the picture of confidence.
This Discus Thrower is yet another Roman copy of a famous Greek original. While Romans were better engineers than artists, one area of art in which Rome excelled was copying.
After seeing its museums it's easier to envision Rome at its peak - once a metropolis of marble embellished with countless statues.
The hill overlooking the forum — the Palatine, was filled with luxurious palaces of emperors. In fact, we get our word "palace" from Palatine.
And it was on the protective high ground of this hill that the humble wooden huts of the very first Romans were built.
While little survives on the Palatine — the Pantheon — is ancient Rome's greatest surviving structure.
The one-piece granite columns were shipped from Egypt. It takes four tourists to hug one.
Step inside for the greatest look anywhere at the splendor of ancient Rome. Its dimensions are classic — based on a perfect circle — as wide as it is tall. The oculus is the only source of light.
The Pantheon survived so well because it's been in continuous use for over 2,000 years. It went directly from being a pagan temple to being a Christian church.
Barbarians spared it and it was never used as a quarry. The brilliance of the Pantheon's construction has astounded architects through the ages. It's said that that hole was cut by the great Renaissance architect Brunelleschi to analyze the materials used. The dome gets thinner and lighter with height — the highest part is made of an airy volcanic stone called tufa.
Pan... theon means "all gods." It was a spiritual menagerie where the many gods were worshipped.
There was a kind of religious freedom back then. The conquered were welcome to keep their own gods... as long as they worshipped Caesar as well. This was generally no problem. But the Christians who had a single... and very jealous... God were an exception. Because they refused to worship the emperor, early Christians were persecuted.
Many found themselves locked up in the Mamertine Prison. For pilgrims, this is a sacred spot, where Saints Peter and Paul are said to have done time.
While cistern-shaped, it stored Rome's enemies rather than its water. This floor was added in modern times. Prisoners were lowered in through that hole.
And they landed here. Imagine, a slow death down here with fat rats and rotting corpses. According to legend, St. Peter was chained to this column and a spring miraculously bubbled up allowing him to baptize his cellmates. The upside down cross commemorates Peter's execution. Believing he wasn't worthy to die as Christ did, Peter requested to be crucified upside down.
The names of famous prisoners are on the walls. Also listed: how they were executed: Decapitato — decapitated, Strangolati — strangled, Morto per Fame — starved to death.
In ancient Rome, no burials were allowed within the city walls.
Christian's buried their dead outside of Rome in the Catacombs.
I'm teaming up with Tom Rankin, an American architect living and teaching in Rome. We've rented bikes and are bound for one of these.
Dozens of ancient catacombs circle Rome — a couple of miles beyond its walls. Many are open to the public. We're visiting perhaps the largest and most historic - the catacombs of San Callisto.
Land was expensive. So poor Christians dug their tombs many stories deep on land shared by a few wealthy Christians.
Many of the first Christians buried here were later recognized as martyrs and saints. Others carved out niches nearby to bury their loved ones close to these early Christian heroes. They dug over 300 miles of tomb-lined tunnels with networks of galleries five layers deep. There were half a million tombs in this catacomb alone.
Tom: Of all the rooms in these catacombs, these are probably the most historic. In the 3rd century, nine popes were buried here. And pilgrims over the centuries have come here to worship at their tombs.
Rick: It feels like a chapel.
Tom: In fact in the fourth century it was converted into a chapel. One of the martyrs was beheaded right here in this altar, a pope, as he was worshiping. Praying here was considered a slap in the face of the Emperor.
Rick: Was the sky light actually from ancient times?
Tom: Yes, it gave a little light and ventilation.
Rick: So it would have felt a lot like it feels right now.
Tom: Very much so, you would have had these oil burning lamps imbedded in the walls.
Rick: You can read the wall.
Tom: Each of the niches was covered with a plaque, to give you information on who was buried here. This refers to someone named Fabian Bishop of Rome, and Martos, and that is very important because this means that this person was a martyr.
The bones are long gone, but symbolic carvings decorate the walls: the fish stood for Jesus, the anchor was a camouflaged cross, and the phoenix with a halo symbolized the resurrection.
By the Middle Ages, these catacombs were abandoned and forgotten. Centuries later they were rediscovered. Romantic tourists on the grand tour visited by candlelight and legends grew about Christians hiding out here to escape persecution. But the catacombs were not hideouts — simply underground cemeteries.
Rome's ancient wall stretches eleven miles. It protected the city until Italy was united in 1870. From gates like this, grand roads fanned out to connect the city with its empire.
The Appian Way — Rome's gateway to the East — was the largest and fastest road yet...the wonder of its day. Called the Queen of Roads — and very straight as Roman engineers were fond of designing — it stretched 400 miles to Naples and on to Brindisi, from where Roman ships sailed to Greece and Egypt.
These are the original stones. Tombs of ancient big shots lined the Appian Way like billboards.
With its million people, ancient Rome needed lots of water. Grand aqueducts carried a steady stream into town. They seem to gallop toward the city, as they did 2,000 years ago.
Rick: So these Aqueducts provided all of Rome's water?
Tom: Yes, aqueducts were the Achilles heel of Rome. All you had to do to bring down the city was to knock out one of these arches. In fact, in the 6th century, the Barbarians did just that. It shriveled up. No water.
Rick: Wow. Great way to conquer a big city.
These days, this aqueduct park is a favorite with locals for walking the dog... or burning off some of that pasta.
Springs in the surrounding hills fed the aqueducts. Even after 20 years of Roman visits I'm enjoying new discoveries. Tom showed me a special spring — the Emperors favorite. It's called Aqua Santa... the Holy Water.
Today, the Aqua Santa bottling company is fed by the same spring. Although you can buy mineral water anywhere in town, locals come here to fill their bottles. While their children enjoy a break from the big city, Romans fill their carts with the same water the Caesars drank.
With its imposing walls and all the stories of persecutions and hungry lions, it's easy to forget that the last century of the Roman Empire was Christian.
In 312 the general Constantine, following a vision that he would triumph under the sign of the cross, beat his rival, emperor Maxentius. Constantine took power and legalized Christianity. This obscure outlawed Jewish sect ultimately became the religion of the empire.
In the year 300 you could be killed for being a Christian and in 400 you could be killed for not being one. Church enrollment boomed and Emperor Constantine built the first great church right here — San Giovanni in Laterano... St. John's.
It opened as a kind of "first Vatican." St. John's was the original home of the bishop of Rome, or Pope.
It's filled with symbols of Christianity's triumph over pagan Rome: Tradition says these gilded bronze columns once stood in pagan Rome's holiest temple. And high atop the canopy over the altar, a box supposedly contains the skulls of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
And what better doors for this first grand church than those which once hung in ancient Rome's Senate house.
The adjacent holy stairs are a major stop on Rome's pilgrimage trail. Many credit Constantine's mother, St. Helena, for her son's conversion. She brought home wagonloads of relics including these stairs — believed to be from the palace of Pontius Pilate. For 1,700 years, pilgrims — believing Jesus climbed these on the day he was condemned — have scaled the Scala Santa on their knees.
The influence of ancient Rome is everywhere. Its noble ruins tell a tale of power, politics, and imperial egos; of pagan gods now forgotten; of public art on a grand scale and of brilliant and enduring engineering feats. It's a story of colossal achievement and monumental failure.
By the year 500 the over-expanded, corrupt and exhausted Roman Empire had fallen. Over time, Trajan's column was capped with a Christian saint, the Pantheon became a church, Emperor Hadrian's mausoleum became the Pope's fortress, and the tomb of a man the Romans executed was crowned by the grandest building in the city — St. Peter's Basilica.
Today visitors to Rome find fascinating layers of history and culture: early Christian, baroque, and modern. But it all sits upon a solid foundation of the ancient city which was, for many centuries, the capital of Western Civilization. I'm Rick Steves. Keep on travelin'. Ciao.
See more travel details for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks.