Naples and Pompeii
This is a quick and handy source for details on the sights, hotels, tour guides and restaurants featured in the "Naples and Pompeii" show. For much more (and updates), see this year's edition of Rick Steves' Italy guidebook.
Roberta Mazzarella
Roberta Mazzarella, who sorts through the wonders of Naples as only a local can, is excellent for a city walk (about €50/hr depending on itinerary, mobile 339-135-7619, robertamazzarella@yahoo.it). Roberta also gives tours of Capri and Pompeii.
Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Antica Pizzeria da Michele, a few blocks from the train station, is for pizza purists. Filled with locals, it serves just two varieties: margherita (tomato sauce and mozzarella) and marinara (tomato sauce, oregano, and garlic, no cheese). A pizza with beer costs €5 (Mon–Sat 10:00–24:00, closed Sun; with the train station at your back, turn off Piazza Garibaldi at 11 o'clock — using an imaginary clock for a compass — onto Corso Umberto, then turn right on Via Pietro Colletta, and look for the vertical red Antica Pizzeria sign, at the intersection of Via Pietro Colletta and Via Cesare Sersale; tel. 081-553-9204).
Pompeii
A once-thriving commercial port of 20,000, Pompeii grew from Greek and Etruscan roots to become an important Roman city. Then, at about noon on August 24, A.D. 79, everything stopped when the city was suddenly buried under 30 feet of hot volcanic ash. Pompeii was rediscovered in the 1600s, and excavations began in 1748. For archaeologists, this was a shake-and-bake windfall, teaching them volumes about daily Roman life.
Cost: €11, €20 combo-ticket includes Herculaneum (called Ercolano) and three lesser sites (valid 3 days), can be free or 50 percent off with Campania ArteCard.
Hours: Open daily April–Oct 8:30–19:30, Nov–March 8:30–17:00, last entry 90 minutes before closing.
Information: A good map and information booklet (which describes the most important stops within the site) are included with admission, but you must pick them up yourself at the information window (to the left of the WCs). Tel. 081-857-5347, www.pompeiisites.org.
The bookshop sells the small Pompeii and Herculaneum Past and Present book. Its helpful text and and plastic overlays allow you to re-create the ruins— with the "present" actually being 1964 (€12, pay no more than that if buying the book from street vendors).
Audioguides are available at the kiosk near the ticket booth at the Porta Marina entrance (€6.50, €10/2 people, ID required) but they offer basically the same info as your free booklet.
Services: A free baggage check is near the turnstiles at the site entrances (retrieve bags by 19:20). A decent-value cafeteria is on site.
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Gaetano Manfredi
For a local, private, guided tour of Pompeii, consider Gaetano Manfredi (tel. 081-863-9816, mobile 338-725-5620, email 3387255620@tim.it). Gaetano is knowledgeable, energetic, intense, and theatrical — a joy to follow for two hours as he brings the dusty ruins to life. Avoid impersonators. Find the real Gaetano only at the Porta Marina entrance — look for the guy wearing an official badge (mobile 338-725-5620, tel. 081-863-9816, 3387255620@tim.it).
Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico)
For lovers of antiquity, this museum alone makes Naples a worthwhile stop. Considering its popularity and the importance of its collection, it's remarkable how ramshackle, unkempt, and dumpy its displays are. Still, if you can overlook the dust bunnies, it offers the best possible peek into the artistic jewelry boxes of Pompeii and Herculaneum. When Pompeii was excavated in the early 1800s, Naples' Bourbon king bellowed, "Bring me the best of what you find!" The actual excavation sight is impressive but barren; the finest art and artifacts ended up here.
Cost and Hours: €6 but often €10 with mandatory charge for special exhibits, covered by Campania ArteCard, Wed–Mon 9:00–19:30, closed Tue.
Information: Audioguides cost €4 (at ticket desk, rentable for 3 hours). The shop sells a worthwhile green National Archaeological Museum of Naples guidebook for €7.50 — a better value than the audioguide.
Tours: If you want a guided tour, look for Pina Esposito at the museum; €120/2 hrs, €170/half-day; help her assemble a group of up to 10 to split this fee, mobile 349-596-8251, annamariaesposito1@virgilio.it.
Updated for 2009.