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Tuscany's Dolce Vita

The small towns and rural charms of Tuscany give us a healthy dose of the "sweet life" as we hunt for truffles in an oak forest, nibble our way through an artichoke festival, share a farmhouse feast, and ride a classic convertible through the cypress groves of Mona Lisa's backyard.

Travel Details

Volterra's Etruscan Museum

Filled top to bottom with rare Etruscan artifacts, this museum — even with few English explanations — makes it easy to appreciate how advanced this pre-Roman culture was. The exhibit, while pretty dusty and old school, is considered the third-best Etruscan museum anywhere, after the Vatican and the British Museum. It starts with the pre-Etruscan Villanovian artifacts (c. 1500 b.c.). The seemingly endless collection of funerary urns (designed to contain the ashes of cremated loved ones) all show the subject lounging, as if kicking back with the gods at some heavenly banquet, popping grapes and just enjoying the moment. They indicate that the Etruscans believed you'd have fun in the afterlife. Artifacts such as mirrors, coins, and jewelry offer a peek into this fascinating culture. Giacometti fans will be amazed at how the tall, skinny figure called The Shadow of Night (L'ombra della sera) looks just like the modern Swiss sculptor's work — only 2,500 years older (tel. 0588-86-347).

Annie Adair

American Annie Adair married into the local community, organizes American marriages in Tuscany, is an excellent private guide, and can organize wine or cheese farm tours (mobile 347-143-5004, tel. 0588-87-774, info@tuscantour.com).

Alab Arte Workshop

Alabaster Workshop — Alab'Arte offers a fun peek into the art of alabaster. Their showroom is across from the Etruscan Museum. A block downhill is their powdery workshop, where you can watch Roberto Chiti and Giorgio Finazzo at work. Lighting shows off the translucent quality of the stone and the expertise of these artists (Via Orti Sant' Agostino 28, tel. 0588-85-506).

La Vena di Vino Wine Bar

La Vena di Vino, also just across from the Etruscan Museum, is a fun enoteca wine bar where two guys have devoted themselves to the wonders of wine and share it with a fun-loving passion. Each day Bruno and Lucio open six or eight bottles, serve your choice by the glass, pair it with characteristic munchies, and offer fine music (guitars available for patrons) and an unusual decor — the place is strewn with bras (Via Don Minzoni 30, tel. 0588-81-491).

Agriturismo Terrapille

Agriturismo Terrapille sits just below Pienza, on a little grassy bluff surrounded by 360 degrees of dreamy Tuscan scenery. It's private and rustic yet cozy and romantic. Four country rooms and two apartments come with modern comforts (tel. & fax 0578-749-146 at farm, terrapille@bccmp.com). Lucia, who runs the place, lives in Pienza (home tel. 0578-748-434, mobile 338-920-4470).

Roberto Bechi

Roberto Bechi, a hardworking Sienese guide, specializes in off-the-beaten-path tours of the surrounding countryside by minibus (up to six passengers, convenient pick-up at hotel). Married to an American (Patti) and having run restaurants in Siena and the United States, Roberto communicates well with Americans. His passions are Sienese culture, Tuscan history, and local cuisine (assistant Anna can schedule city tours as well as other guides if Roberto is booked; tel. 0577-321-004, Anna's mobile 320-147-6590, Roberto's mobile 328-425-5648, info@toursbyroberto.com).

Contucci Cantina

Montepulciano's most popular attraction isn't made of stone...it's the famous wine, Vino Nobile. This robust red can be tasted in any of the cantinas lining Via Ricci and Via di Gracciano nel Corso, but the cantina in the basement of Palazzo Contucci is the most fun (Piazza Grande 7, tel. 0578-757-006).

Mueblè il Riccio

Mueblè il Riccio ("hedgehog" in Italian) is medieval-elegant, with six modern rooms, an awesome roof terrace, and friendly owners (Via Talosa 21, tel. & fax 0578-757-713, info@ilriccio.net, Gio and Ivana speak English).

Updated for 2010.