The Best of West Ireland:
Dingle, Galway and the Aran Islands
Rick Steves' Europe: Episode # 210
Deepest Ireland is best experienced on its west coast in Gaeltachts - where the people speak Gaelic and the rugged villages have changed little over the generations. After exploring the rugged and remote Aran Islands, we settle into Galway, chase a friendly dolphin, and delve into Ireland in the extreme, Dingle Peninsula. Ringing with traditional music from its rustic pubs, dotted with prehistoric "fairy forts," if you'll fall in love with Ireland, chances are it'll be right here.
- Read the script from the show.
Travel Details
Halla Ronain Community Center
The Halla Ronain community center becomes a dance hall on some Saturday nights, when from midnight to 2:00 in the morning, locals have a ceilidh (KAY-lee), the Irish equivalent of a hoedown. Ask at the TI to see if one is scheduled during your stay. Celtic Passage is a lively new stage show of music, song, and dance performed here on summer evenings ( tel. 099/61104 or 099/61090).
Shane Connolly
Shane Connolly leads in-depth, three-hour guided walks through the Burren explaining the diverse flora, geology, history, and man's role in shaping this landscape. Wear comfortable shoes for wet, rocky fields and prepare to meet a proud farmer who really knows his stuff (call to book and find out meeting point in Ballyvaughan, tel. 065/707-7168).
Captain's House B&B
Captain's House B&B is a shipshape place in the town center, fit for an admiral, with eight classy rooms, peat-fire lounges, a stay-a-while garden, and a magnificent breakfast in the conservatory. Mary, whose mother ran a guest house before Dingle was discovered, loves her work and is very good at it (The Mall, tel. 066/915-1531, captigh@eircom.net, Jim and Mary Milhench).
Lisbeth Mulcahy's
Lisbeth Mulcahy Weaver, filled with traditional but stylish woven wear, is also the Dingle sales outlet of the well-known potter from out on Slea Head (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, Green Street, tel. 066/915-1688).
West Kerry Craft Guild
The West Kerry Craft Guild — a co-op selling the work of 15 local artists — is a delight even if you're just browsing. The prices here are very good since you're buying directly from the artists (18 Main Street, tel. 066/915-2976).
O'Flaherty's Pub
Quietly intense owner Fergus O'Flaherty, a fixture since my first visit to Dingle, sings and plays a half dozen different instruments during nightly traditional music sessions. His domain has a high ceiling and is dripping in old-time photos and town memorabilia — it's touristy but lots of fun.
Tim Collins
Tim Collins, a retired Dingle police officer, and his son Michael give serious 2.5-hour minibus tours (departing at 10:30 and 14:00, depending upon demand). Drop by the Eileen Collins Kirrary B&B (at Dykegate and Grey's Lane) or call 066/915-1606 to put your name on the list.
Fungie
A dolphin moved into Dingle Harbor and became a local celebrity. Fungie (FOON-gee, with a hard g) is now the darling of the town's tourist trade and one reason you'll find so many tour buses parked along the harbor. With a close look at Fungie as bait, tour boats are thriving. The hardy little boats motor seven to 40 passengers out to the mouth of the harbor, where they troll around looking for Fungie. You're virtually assured of seeing the dolphin, but you don't pay unless you do (1-hr trips depart 10:00-17:00 depending on demand, behind TI at Dolphin Trips office, tel. 066/915-2626). As Fungie is getting on in years, locals admit that he doesn't come up as often as he used to.
For up-to-date specifics, see the latest edition of the Rick Steves' Ireland travel guide — or join us on one of our free-spirited Ireland tours.