Scandinavia
Best and worst sights, experiences and destinations:
Best: Buy the OSLO card and the TALLINN card.
Why: It pays for itself.
Worst: Don’t buy the STOCKHOLM card
Why: Because it would be hard to pay for itself (as Rick pointed out,) Some of the things we wanted to do (archipelago tour) were not covered. Buy the 8 ride pass at the Pressbryan convenience stores in the T-bana. If you’re retired, ask for a ‘Pensioner’ rate.
DennisA in Thousand Oaks, ca USA 08/14/2008
Best: 1. Aero, Denmark 2. Kronborg Castle in Helsingor 3. Copenhagen - Richard Karpen's walk tours
Why: 1. We spent 3 days biking, exploring (finding 3,000 yr old passage tombs in the middle of farmer's fields....), wandering, beaching -- and wished we could have allowed a week. 2. Kronborg Castle - Wandering around the casements under the castle was fascinating 3. Copenhagen - Richard Karpen's walking tours were informative and fun -- we took 3 of them!
Worst: Touring the "Kikngdom of Crystal" between Vaxjo and Kalmar, Sweden
Why: We toured 5 different glassworks, to find that 4/5 had the same glassware -- which wasn't very interesting or innovative. The companies had merged (into Kosta-Boda), and the same designers were designing for all of them. It was very disappointing. The only glassworks with interesting, innovative glass was "Transjo Glashytta" (RS p. 375). When we returned, our hotel (Frimurare Hotellet) directed us a short block away (small shop in the old wall -- "Westholm Glasstudio" www.glashyttan.net )-- where I found some beautiful handblown glass created by the owner, Dennis Westholm.
Jane and Gerry Grunau in Abbotsford,, BC Canada 07/29/2008
Best: Stockholm Royal Armory, Vasa Museum, Suomenlinna
Why: The Royal Armory was awesome, a showing armor, dress, and coaches. It wasn't overwhelming, either. The Vasa was aweinspiring, though the smell did make my father ill. Suomelinna was a good scenic walk combined with a boat ride leaving from the market.
Worst: Midsummer in Stockholm
Why: For starters, we didn't know anyone, so we were just there but had no link to the holiday. Besides, everyone leaves the city to go to the country. We went to Skansen that day based on a recommendation, but the only demonstrations they were doing that day were folk dancing, and everything else was vacant. Very disappointing. Be aware that everything closes early, so you have to make a picnic for dinner or else go hungry because it's hard to find a grocery store or restaurant still open. The day before, we were in Turku, Finland, and the castle there closed at 3pm for the holiday, so the holiday can mess up other things, too.
Heather Kandoll in Vancouver, WA USA 07/11/2008
Best: Copenhagen
Why: Beautiful city, friendly people, great attractions that aren't limited to churches and museums. What a great place!
M. Nelson in Chicago, IL USA 06/29/2008
Best: The Hop on Hop Off Tour - Stockholm
Why: It gets you full circle around the city by Bus AND boat, get on when you want, comes every 15 minutes to stops, fantastic!
Jim Asprinio in san Francisco, USA 05/11/2008
Best: Bryggen walking tour, Kon-Tiki museum
Why: The Bryggen walking tour in Bergen was my favorite thing in Scandinavia. Our guide was excellent, and we got to see (and learn) a lot in a short time. It made Bergen so interesting! The reason we went to Scandinavia in the first place was to visit the Kon-Tiki museum in Oslo, and it didn't disappoint.
We also really enjoyed the Kiek in de Kok museum in Tallinn (loved the old postcards), the 3T tram tour in Helsinki, the Vasa museum in Stockholm (plus the Gamla Stan self-guided tour--loved Iron Boy!), the Viking Ship museum in Oslo, the Holmenkollen ski jump, and the Floibanen funicular in Bergen.
Worst: Norway-in-a-Nutshell boat ride and bus ride
Why: We enjoyed the train ride part of Norway-in-a-Nutshell (especially the Flam railway and its stop at the waterfall), but the boat part was not that impressive (same not-that-impressive scenery for a long time, plus it rained the whole time we were on it), and the bus ride was just scary. For the price (1165 NOK, $192 each), I wouldn't take the Norway-in-a-Nutshell tour again.
Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 01/10/2008
Best: Hans Christian Anderson walks in Copenhagen
Why: Priceless perspective on danish culture and goverment welfare model, in addition to other wonderful perpectives. Took walks on two consecutive days...wish it could have been more.
Gene Field in Tampa, FL USA 09/09/2007
Best: Richard Karpen tour in Copenhagen
Why: Very lively, kept adults and children alike entertained. A close second would be our guide in Bergen from the Bryggen Museum. Getting to walk through the three buildings with a guide was great! Then, tips to finde less expensive food in Oslo was good -- Deli Deluca :-)
Worst: Oslo walking tour guide
Why: They call it the "promenade tour." Our guide was knowledgable but very very dry and slow moving. We really just stoped at a few places while the guide appeared to like to hear herself talk. Even if that were different it would not compare to. Our feet hurt from standing so much vs moving a bit. Ugh, I could not wait for it to end.
Mike McDonnell in Wroughton, UK 09/02/2007
Best: Balestrand, Norway
Why: Would have never thought to stay in this wonderful small town. Well worth it, especially enjoyed taking the fjord day cruise on Fjord 1. The all-day (cheap) excursion only had 6 people on board. What wonderful cruise! Nice hikes around Balestrand and up into the foothills.
Worst: really none, but...NIN a headache
Why: The Norway-in-a-Nutshell itself was great, but landing there when a cruise ship is in (which is almost daily) is a logistics nightmare. Crowded, two cancelled early morning Flam trains, and one cluelss Flam railway agent. If you have tight connections or no printout for your online reservation, be warned!
Elaine in Livingston, MT USA 08/28/2007
Best: Balestrand Hotel
Why: After a couple of very busy days in Moscow and St. Petersburg, Balestrand, Norway, was the perfect place to unwind. And the Balestrand Hotel was a great hotel. Unni Marie and Eric were warm, welcoming innkeepers who went out of their way to make our stay enjoyable. Beautiful spot and a wonderful breakfast.
Larry Getz in Edmonds , WA USA 08/08/2007
Best: Son vs. Parents
Why: For our 7 year old son: The rides and the lego creations at Legoland at Billund, Denmark.
For mom and dad: Once off the Norway in a Nutshell route, the peace and quiet and scenery of Balestrand, Norway.
Worst: Oslo
Why: After Stockholm and Copenhagen, Oslo doesn't have much to offer. Still, it somehow feels more like a "real" place than those other places.
Bob DenOuden in Eugene, OR USA 08/03/2007
Worst: Royal Armory, Stockholm
Why: It should NOT be rated 3 triangles at all! It pales in comparison to others in Europe. Madrid (and England) are much better. If you have seen them, this is a waste of time. Waiting in line for so long to get tickets to this is not worth it. Very little in the way of armor. They had a giant shoe exhibit and clothing. Very disappointing.
CL in Koebenhaven K, DK 07/16/2007
Best: Viking Ship Museum, Oslo
Why: Amazingly old, nicely presented, interesting neighborhood walk from the Viking museum to the Kon Tiki museum
Worst: Oslo Sweater Shop
Why: Way overrated. A much nicer selection and experience at the shops along the Bryggen in Bergen or at the Ski Museum in Oslo
Lori in Minneapolis, MN USA 07/05/2007
Best: Norway In A Nutshell
Why: Fantastic. We started in Aurland and even though the ferry schedule stated that there would be no return stop to Aurland they accommodated us when we asked.
Worst: The cost of Scandinavia
Why: This is the land of $10 hamburgers and $50 pizza! This was not the result of an unfavorable exchange rate but simply the prices of things. So...get over the sticker-shock and enjoy your trip (being forewarned...)
Earl in Lockport, IL USA 07/03/2007
Best: Norway in a Nutshell
Why: I didn't think it was possible to say "Wow" so many times in one day.
John in Towson, MD USA 06/12/2007
Best: Norway in a Nutshell, Vasa museum, Oslo pass and Tallin
Why: Norway in a Nutshell for it's natural beauty, the Vasa museum is just such a unique experience, and the Oslo pass allowed us to experience more of Oslo at a lower price. Tallin at the end of our trip was a perfect conclusion to a wonderful trip. The prices were reasonable and we found ourselves wandering around for two days without visiting a single museum.
Worst: Helsinki
Why: It was not bad but, there aren't many things to do or see there.
sandy winters in willis, te USA 06/03/2007
Best: Copenhagen
Why: Friendly people....sexy Danes because they ride the bicycles. In fact one Dane told me that American women are "fat". She apologies but I said she telling the truth.
Worst: Helsinki
Why: Per Danes, Swedes, & Norwegians: Helsinki is a bland city, they are telling the truth. Rick, you're right about Cafe Kappeli in Helsinki.
Jude1349 in deptford, NJ USA 05/30/2007
Best: self-guided tours on foot
Why: accurate, giving exciting tips on what to see and where to go
Ann-Louise Blixt in Helsingborg, Sweden 05/17/2007
Best: one day bus pass in Oslo; Hurtigruten coastal trip
Why: ease in getting around Oslo [not true in Bergen];Hurtigruten coastal voyage has grezt scenery, food and activites
richard welsh in westfield ctr, oh USA 04/17/2007
Best: Louisiana (modern art museum near Copenhagen) and Museum of Danish Resistance in Copenhagen
Why: There is a lot more to Louisiana than what you can see from the entrance. It is huge. I like the way the museum has windows that look out to the sea and over the beautiful landscape. The cafe in the museum also has a wonderful view. We saw a fun exhibit of famous movies.
I would also like to suggest seeing the Museum of Danish Resistance, about the experiences of the Danish people during World War II. The museum is free, in English, small, and very informative about the struggles of the Danish people during this painful time. I usually never read about the displays in a museum, except I did in this one. We toured 5 museums in Copenhagen in one day. I think this is the museum I will most remember.
Jan Wishau in Columbia, MO USA 02/24/2007
Best: Strolling the Stroget etc
Why: Returned a few weeks ago and found the city of Copenhagen and real adventure. A great two day visit. Weather was great, people polite, the city very walkable and friendly. Loved the coffee shops in the evening. Our best delight was Tivoli in the evening all dressed up for Halloween. Many of the youngsters were in fright night dress. What a treat.
Worst: Price of Beer
Why: Now I know what a ten dollar glass of beer tastes like.
Mike Worosz in Griffith , IN USA 11/14/2006
Best: Cruise to Finland
Why: This is great fun. We found the locals on the cruise to be extremely friendly and the accommodations on the overnight cruise were comfortable.
Debbie Harker in Waldron, IN USA 11/07/2006
Best: Knitters Stalls in Estonia
Why: Didn't find mentioned anywhere else and followed the map right to the street. The people we great and spoke english very well.
Worst: Helsinki was a problem.
Why: Walk from the cruise ship dock to the city was longer than expected.
Robert Patterson in Colorado Srpings, CO USA 10/28/2006
Best: Too many "bests" to single one out
Why: Vigeland's sculptures, Estonian Museum of Occupation, the fjords, Norwegian Resistance Museum in Oslo, Copenhagen (sights, food, shopping), Helsinki's museum (especially the prehistoric section), the town of Kalmar, the food market hall in Stockholm...and more
Worst: Bergen's Fish Market
Why: Just disappointing...very small...
Marion Dunham in Whitefield, NH USA 10/26/2006
Best: Oslo "Walk up the Akers River..."
Why: Sep 8 2006 We had several days in Oslo and have been there before. We followed this walk from directions in 'Scandinavia 2006." Beautiful, fascinating walk, away from the tourist area. It wasn't the best experience of our trip but it was a great afternoon adventure of exploring.
B & V Broering in Austin, TX USA 10/01/2006
Best: Norway in a Nutshell self-guided tour
Why: A wonderful intro to this gorgeous country w/its variety of sights & transit types. Magnificent!
Sally Davenport in Bellingham, WA USA 09/15/2006
Best: Vigeland Sculptures (Frogner Park, Oslo)
Why: Very beautiful and moving. Get there early, before the tour buses.
Worst: Bergen
Why: It rained too much and there's not much to do ... an afternoon was all we needed there
Lauren in New York, NY USA 09/06/2006
Best: Norway in a Nutshell
Why: Wonderful diversity, well organized, easy to do. Boat ride was best part. Took from Bergen. Got senior rate of 409 kr, you should mention that senior rate is available.
Wallace Mersereau in San Mateo, CA USA 09/06/2006
Best: vasa museum
Why: you really must be lazy if you avoid this one. swedes like their ships
eric daimler in san jose, ca USA 09/02/2006
Best: Aerø; Stockholm's Gamla Stan; drive from Lom to Laerdal in Norway
Why: We spent two nights on Aerø, the Danish island. I could have extended that. The town of Aerøskøbing was absolutely amazing so quaint and yet so real, and very friendly. As we walked down the street to the ferry our last morning, three people that we had met popped out of their doors to wish us a good trip!
The Gamla Stan walk in Stockholm was fun and informative and much like a treasure hunt.
The drive over the highest mountain pass in Northern Europe and along the Lustrafjord helped me understand the Norwegian's comment about Yosemite, "It was cute."
Jaunita Eichman in Wirtz, , VA USA 08/26/2006
Best: Glacier cruise from Balestrand
Why: I've never seen blue ice before. The beauty of the fjord's is indescribable.
Worst: 1 1/2 wait for taxi in the rain after Oslo-Copenhagen cruise.
Why: We thought taxis would be easy to get in Copenhagen but we had a long wait in the rain. Suggest getting on the buses or walking to the regional train
Tom Gilbert in Bryn Mawr, PA USA 08/25/2006
Best: Vigeland Sculptures, Oslo
Why: Beautiful sculptures in a fantastic setting. It was fun to watch kids and grown-ups (including us!) pose like the statues. Much better than Milles Garden, where the beautiful setting had so-so sculpture. We also loved Old Town Tallinn. Your self-guided walk was excellent.
Kenneth Thomas in O'Fallon, MO USA 08/21/2006
Best: Cathedral in Old Town, Stockholm
Why: If we had not read about it in the guide, we would not have known it was there. The St. George and the Dragon statue was stunning!-you didn't mention that glaring amber eye!! Wow!
Worst: Produce market in Helsinki
Why: Disappointing quality crafts selection. Stockmann's had less expensive things. the cruise ships are bringing thousands of people at a time, and they are probably catering to them.
kathi o'Gorman in Oswego, NY USA 08/20/2006
Best: Best experience was a disaster avoided
Why: I stopped in the Train Station in Odense (Denmark) while enroute from Aero to Copenhagen. I changed our tickets to go through to the Airport. I went directly from the ticket counter to find a post box to mail some cards....on my way back from the post box I saw the ticket clerk...she was looking for me throughout the station as I had left my wallet on the counter. She was one of the many individuals who have made my traveling in Europe such a joy...I didn't get her name (I was rushing for the train by this time, and somewhat disoriented by her kind and considerate act). For those of you stopping in Odense, you are in good hands...for the rest of us, we should all remember the various occassions where we have benefited from the kindness of the citizens in the countries we are fortunate enough to visit
Bill Young in San Leandro , CA USA 08/16/2006
Best: Hans Christian Andersen tour in Copenhagen
Why: Richard was fantastic...we ended up taking 3 of his city tours (with very little overlap). He is a wealth of information about Copenhagen including where to eat...where to buy (he gave us some suggestions on an area of town for Antiques). He is the best "deal" in all of Europe!
Bill Young in San Leandro , CA USA 08/16/2006
Best: I'll second the Vasa Museum in Stockholm
Why: The Vasa was only one of the many surprises in Stockholm...the Changing of the Guard at the Palace was better than anything you will see in London...the band was great....unlike some of those below, I liked Skansen...(I also liked Seurasaari in Helsinki....)
Worst: Train ride from Helsinki to St. Petersburg
Why: The "shennagians at the border" did not amuse us. The trip is 6 hours to cover what would normally be about 2 or 3 hours on other trains in Europe. The view is similar to N. Maine...one continuous expanse of woods broken occasionally with farmlands until you get to the very ugly entrance to St. Petersburg. Do yourself a favor and take a plane into St. Petersburg from either Helsinki or Tallin.
Bill Young in San Leandro , CA USA 08/16/2006
Best: Stockholm and the restored ship the Vasa
Why: Food and lodging within a rational budget, still expensive but not unexpectedly so. Very friendly, well kept and walking friendly. Understandable subways etc. Plenty to see and do.
Worst: Norway
Why: Norway is sitting on piles of oil money and doesn't want or need your toursit dollars. The prices were actually offensive. It takes alot of the fun out of a trip when you know you're being ripped off. The Norweagins are paid highly, with basically months off every year, free health care, college through PhD level, cheap housing and electricy etc. Tourists - who needs you. We drove a car from Denmark and were advised by our Danish host to take a cooler of food with us (we were staying in cabins with kitchens). I expected prices to be high but I did not expect 200 to 400 percent (yes you read that right) markups on "luxury items" as in anything but real basics. Food in grocery stores was higher than say Sweden, but rational. Hot and thirsty mid-day and want a small (as in small) beer $10 on a side street, small (one piece) of fish and a salad consisting of nothing but iceberg lettuce and a lemon wedge $25. Want great scenery - go to Alaska for a quarter the price.
Marie in San Diego, CA USA 08/09/2006
Best: Stockholm
Why: saved time and money. My best experience in the Stockholm area was not in your book. I took the regional trains for a circular tour around lake Malaren, stopped at Orebro, Kungsgor, Marefield, fairy-tale trip, castles, peaceful lakes, steam railway meets the regional train. Quiet, serene settings, relaxing and beautiful. Can take the boat back to Stockholm. This is the one place I would have rented a car, the 10 castles around Lake Malaren would be a great tour to include in the next book. Just the grounds alone were incredible at Gripsholm.
Worst: Oslo
Why: Oslo has had a series of rapes this summer. I am 50 and not especially attractive, but when I got off the train at 7 am I was approached by 4 men (vagrants) just in the distance from the train station half-way up to the palace. A man on my train was offered drugs within an hour of getting off the train. Better, safer places are in Scandinavia. Way too much on Oslo in the 2006 book. Don't steer people to this place, so many other safer places. I was not surprised to hear they had a series of rapes.
[Editor's Note: As in any big city, it's best to avoid walking around alone very early or very late when streets are deserted. Splurging for a taxi in these instances may well be worth it for the peace of mind.]
Jenna Stone in New York, NY USA 08/01/2006
Best: Sir Richard's Copenhagen walking tour and Carl Millesgarden outside Stockholm
Why: He was funny and informative and warm and we just loved him. Millesgarden was just beautiful.
Worst: Skansen in Stockholm...and Tivoli, I'm afraid!
Why: Skansen felt contrived and artificial. I was sorry I didn't spend the 1/2 day @ a museum or elsewhere. Tivoli, well, I had to see it, but it was much more crowded and noisy and dirty that I imagined and not @ all pleasurable. We had dinner, saw a concert, got an ice cream, and left.
Linda Maryanov in New York, NY USA 08/01/2006
Best: All the Walking tours.
Why: I love having a destination, not wasting my time. Rick's advice on which sites to hit gave me a terrific focus.
Worst: Copenhagen
Why: hot, overrun with tourists, take half a day and do Ricks walking tour and get out of there, see it coming to and from. do not spend a night.
jenna stone in new york, NY USA 07/26/2006
Best: Sognefjord / Viking ships
Why: Beautiful country / real ships
James in Commerce, ga USA 07/13/2006
Best: Aero
Why: The picnic at Voderup Cliff was fabulous
MaryThompson in Schroon Lake , NY USA 07/10/2006
Best: 1. Mt. floyen in Bergen 2. Train from Helsinki to St. Petersburg and back 3. Porvoo, Finland 4. Vigeland park, Oslo
Why: 1. Fabulous view and great walk down the mountain back into the city.
2. A not to be believed experience, particularly the ridiculous shenanigans of Russian passport control.
3. We took a bus to Porvoo and the coastal ferry boat back to Helsinki. A great riverfront walk, especiaaly on a day when Helsinki was totally closed due to summer holidays.
4. We took the trolley to Majorstuen to see the park. Fabulous sculptures. furthermore, it got us to see a beautiful part of oslo, rather than seeing the ratty, dirty city center
Worst: 1. Tallin old City. 2. bergen fishmarket
Why: 1. It was just not worth the 2 hours each way on the boat to see the old city in Tallin. The time could have been better spent elsewhere.
2. The Bergen fishmarket was just a big nothing.
Michael Feinberg in Silver Spring, MD USA 07/07/2006
Best: The trails on top of the mountáins in Bergen.
Why: It was exhilarating to be above Bergen looking down. A terrific choice. Be sure to get a trail map at the TI before you get to the top. I walked 2 complete trails in less than an hour and had my best experience in Bergen, quiet mountain lakes and very few tourists. The trails are as wide as a road.
Worst: EXPENSIVE TAXIS
Why: I rarely use taxis, when Rick says they are expensive, believe me they are! When the train from Gotenburt to Copenhagen was standing room only, I quickly decided to take the ferry to denmark instead. The taxi from Gotenburg RR to the terminal was 100 kr. and the taxi from Frederikshaven terminal to the RR there was 100kr too, 200 kr was more than the ferry ride.! Do not make the same mistake.
Jenna Stone in New York, NY USA 07/03/2006
Best: Walking tour of Copenhagen
Why: I followed Rick's advice to visit Copenhagen arriving and leaving Scandinavia instead of spending even one night there. Had a wonderful day---just 6 hours before going to Malmo to take night train to Oslo. You really can see most of Copenhagen with the walking tour included in the book. Suggestion to visit the Free national museum just a couple of blocks from the RR station in Copenhagen was a terrific suggestion. I walked all the way to the ramparts and harbor and back, glad i did not spend the night in this crowded tourist city.
Worst: TI in Stavanger
Why: the two girls who staffed the desk were absolutely clueless. Wasted an hour there.
Jenna Stone in New York, NY USA 07/03/2006
Worst: please phone....
Why: when you have booked a room at a private B&B its always a good idea if you are late to telephone them, so they would not been inconvienced - theres telephones at stations etc. everywhere.
julie hansen in Ærøskøbing-Isle of Ærø, Denmark 06/30/2006
Best: Norway in a Nutshell
Why: Absolutely stunning, great way to travel, remarkable staff on trains, bus, boat.
Steve Shaiken in San Francisco, C USA 05/21/2006
Best: One of the best was the Silja line overnight ferry Stockholm to Helsinki. The smorgasbord is a real bargain with the ScanRail Pass and if you reserve your dinner at the time you reserve your ticket. We found it to be a much better bargain than land restaurants.
Why: The fish course, in particular, was one of the best meals and along with the window side table you couldn't beat the view.
Sandra Larsen in Eugene, Or USA 01/04/2006
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