Ireland

Favorite discoveries or tips:

During our recent visit to Ireland we discovered the delightful town of Skibbereen, West Cork. Worth the drive to and visit! Great restraunts, pubs, and bistro (recommended by the B&B proprieters). Also, we found the loveliest Georgian B&B, Grove House and Courtyard Cottages (Another tour book). The entrance and then the view of the "house" was a delight. The hosts, Anna, Peter and Kelly Warburton were very warm and shared the feeling of "country elegance". They purchased this Georgian B&B many years ago, delapitated but full of potential and with a lot of TLC it has been restored to its glory. Do take the time to visit someday, you will be glad you did. Their web:www.grovehouse.net and E-Mail: relax@grovehouse.net. Tel:028-22957, Fax:028-22958

Gerald and Beatrice Johnson in Palomar Mountain, CA USA 04/29/2008

The drive over Conner Pass; The town of Roundstone in Connemara; Healy Pass and the greater area around the Bearra peninsula just south of Kenmare - of course this includes Kenmare, the best town in all of Ireland; Getting lost while driving the back roads; and most of all, the Irish people and their culture.

Bruce Grabowski in Barrington, IL USA 04/10/2008

(Dingle Penninsula) On Connor's Pass, at the pull-off with a waterfall: If you hike up the first large slope you come to Peddler's Lake. It is a beautiful setting a fantastic view of the valley. Also in Dingle: Between the Blasket Center and Louis Mulcahy's Pottery is a small pull-off at Clogher Head, a craggy hill that's a bit of a hike but gives you the best view of the Sleeping Giant, the coast, and a lovely beach.

Natalie in Martin, WI USA 04/08/2008

Galway Ireland. I went on a tour with galway Tours in Galway and was really impressed with the stories and the general enthuasiasm of our guide. well worth checking out. www.galwaytours.ie

anna winz in bern, Switzerland 04/03/2008

I agree with the Dunmore East recommendation. It was recommended to us by some native Irish folks we know, as a local secret. We stayed an the Rainbow Inn B&B hosted by Mary Nagel, who has a wealth of info about the culture as well as clean well kept rooms en suite. In August they have a - of all things - Blue grass festival, that sells out all accomodations. Nice little friendly pubs too. Great drive out from Waterford, through the country side to get there,

Steve in Poulsbo, WA USA 04/02/2008

I'd highly recommend driving the west coast. We started in Galway and ended in Cork, and loved the entire trip! One thing Rick does not recommend which we enjoyed was a horse & carriage ride (jaunting car) through Killarney National Park. Our driver was fascinating to talk with and allowed us as much time as we wanted at Muckross House and the Torc waterfall. Granted we visted in October, so we paid a great low season price.

Karis in Madison, WI USA 03/31/2008

Dunmore East and Woodstown beach,fantastic little fishing village and beautiful beach with lots of birds feeding on the shore line.Spent 4 wonderful days in bed and breakfast gaultier lodge, up at dawn to watch racehorses galloping on the beach then back for an amazing breakfast, fresh fruit, pancakes ,homemade jelly and irish scones and much more.

harry watson in Raleigh, nc USA 02/12/2008

Le Bistro in Kinsale. The owners are Jacqui and Jean-Marc who used to be with the Chow House which was a Rick Steves recommendation. The food at Le Bistro was great and the owners very friendly and helpful. A definate recommendation. The phone number is 021 4777117 and email is eat@lebistrokinsale.com.

Jeff Daggett in Edmonds, WA USA 01/19/2008

Camp Junction B&B on the Dingle Peninsula was fantastic. The host, John Doyle, was gracious, offered us a cup of tea on arrival, and had a wonderful place. We were the only guests when we stayed and John built us a fire each night, met us at the pub, and cooked a great breakfast. His contact details are +353 66 7130848 and his email is johndoyle@campjunctionhouse.com.

Tim Jakubowski in Portland, OR USA 12/26/2007

Best Lunch we had in Ireland was at Cafe Hans in Cashel. It is on Moor Lane at the foot of the Rock. +353 (0) 62 63660. The larger Chez Hans (same owner) is nearby in a former church. It gets good reviews, but we did not have the opportunity to try it ourselves.

In Westport our best meal was at Sol Rio on Bridge Street. We had pizza and baked oysters. Delicious. Tel. 098-28944. email solrie@iol.ie.

Nelson Tennison in Mandeville, LA USA 12/09/2007

Woodlands House B & B, Cappagh, Kinsale, Ireland. www.woodlandskinsale.com

Located in a quiet neighborhood on a hill overlooking the town, Brian & Valerie Hosford run a fabulous B & B, one that is spotless and an excellent bargain. We paid €100 for the largest room in the house. It had a king size bed and a twin in a family room. The breakfast was either a full Irish breakfast or a continental breakfast (or, both if you desired). Valerie even did some laundry for us when we asked. The view from our room included the entire harbor area of Kinsale. This is a top B & B.

Bill Sims in Encinitas, CA USA 11/27/2007

Packing in plastic zipper bags has been a big help in storage as well as keeping all of one item together, e.g., socks, underwear, making them easy to find.

Mary and Bob Davidson in Greenwood, SC USA 11/17/2007

Dan Hogan danhogan@mail.com

Dan Hogan in St. Louis, MO USA 11/16/2007

We stayed at Anvershiel B&B, and Victor suggested that we walk to Dunluce Castle, Giant's Causeway, and Bushmills's. It was one of the highlights of our 2 week trip. You will walk on a pathway (much safer than biking the 30 mile Dingle Loop..we did that too, and survived!!) The pathway takes you along the road and down to the beach, back up through the countryside, and onto the main road. It is very safe, and beautiful, like Dingle, but even better. Its a 2 hour walk. It is 3 miles to Dunluce castle, about 4 more miles to the Causeway, and 2 miles back to Bushmills where you can catch a bus back to Portrush. It is much cheaper to walk and enjoy the fresh air and scenery, and not worry about the bus schedules. It was Pure freedom. We did this on November 2, and the weather was blue skies.

Deborah Wehunt in Mesa, AZ USA 11/12/2007

The Coolakay House B & B in Enniskerry was just a short distance south from the Dublin airport. We visited Powerscourt Garden after an early morning arrival, and then were within a mile of our B & B.

Linda in Kailua, HI USA 11/01/2007

The guide book does not mention Malahide Castle. I planned to spend the night in Malahide the last night before leaving Ireland because of it's handy proximity to the Dublin airport. I was very surprised to find this glorious castle nearby. I was disappointed that I arrived too late to tour the inside. If I had known, I would have arrived earlier in the day. Malahide Castle is a glorious sight-both grounds and castle are very worthwhile. I was quite impressed that the Talbot family had inhabited the castle/their home for over 800 years. All in all, a serious omission from Rick's guide of Ireland I think.

Beth Amos in Raleigh, NC USA 10/24/2007

There is a new bus service from the Airport to Dun Laoghaire called the Patton Flyer, 7 Euroes one way, few stops and its almost direct, much better and faster than a bus and train combination, www.thepattonflyer.ie

Bob Dick in Atlanta, Ga USA 10/21/2007

Tip: when traveling Dingle Peninsula and Ring of Kerry by bus, remember to sit on the right side on Kerry and the left on Dingle. Busses go one way: counterclockwise on Kerry, clockwise on Dingle.

Norm Carpenter in Minnetonka, MN USA 10/19/2007

We came upon a wonderful B&B right outside of Thomastown, 10 miles from Kilkenny and directly across the road from the Jerpoint Abbey... thus the name of the B&B is Abbey House. It was the best B&B we stayed in and the best value... the only one with a king-sized bed!! Helen Blanchfield is the owner and has been in business for 20+ years. The old mill associated with the Jerpoint Abbey is still standing next to the B&B. We recommend adding the tour (Heritage Card) of the abbey to your book, also. You can contact Helen at

Carol & Rich Fike in Montrose, CO USA 10/14/2007

Michelin Green Guide, page 308. The “Museum of Country Life” is not in your book, but should be, we think. It is a few miles east of Westport and across the road from a monastery with a fine round tower. The museum provides the best explanation we encountered anywhere of Irish social and religious customs. We could have spent a whole day there. Good shop and restaurant too.

Richard Pine in Rockville , MD USA 10/12/2007

A suggestion. For some reason you don't mention Portstewart,Ireland, but rather, Portrush. We stayed 2 nights in Portstewart in Sept. , staying in Cul-Erg B&B. It is a beautiful home, just steps from the ocean, and run by a wonderful couple,Marie Maguire and husband, and their two children. It was the cleanest, most beautiful b&b that we stayed in on our 3 week trip. The bedrooms were exquisite with beautiful linens and duvets. The breakfasts were superb, the kitchen immaculate. Everything about the home was 5 star, and I feel it should definitely be included in your next Ireland travel book. Their website is culerg.co.uk, email culerg@btopenworld.com

janet james in smiths falls, on canada 10/12/2007

The Ladyswell Restaurant in Cashel (on Ladyswell near Main)had the best Fish 'n Chips of the trip. Clean, bright--doesn't look special but the food was excellent. Cahir Castle (included in Heritage Card) was a stop definitely worth our time. John at Pax House in Dingle 353(0)66-9151518 was an amazing host--he was like having our own personal guide to the peninsula. Even gave us turn-by-turn directions to avoid traffic in Tralee (his hometown) on our way to the Tarbert Ferry.

Susan & Steve in Fort Collins, CO USA 10/09/2007

Wau Asian Cuisine above the Sally Rogers bar on Bridge St in Trim. Excellent Asian food and service.

John and Anita Dumire in Chicago, Il USA 10/08/2007

We chose the Dingle Peninsula over the Ring of Kerry and missed the huge tour bus route. Wonderful area!

Theresa in Walnut Creek, CA USA 10/01/2007

My husband and I recently returned from a two week visit to Ireland (Aug 2007). While walking through the streets of Kinsale, we happened upon a charming restaurant, "Jola's Restaurant". The restaurant itself is lovely and intimate. The decor includes high ceilings, stone walls, a roaring fire, ample seating and a beautiful bar. The food was delicious. The servings were huge! The owner/hostess, Jola Wojtowicz, was on the premises and took the time to visit with each table - a very lovely person. My husband and I enjoyed a cozy and romantic dinner, which was the highlight of our visit. We would highly recommend this to anyone visiting Kinsale.

The contact information is as follows: 18/19 Lower O’Connell Street, Kinsale. Tel: (021) 477 33 22 www.jolasrestaurant.com

Nancy in Providence, RI USA 10/01/2007

One of the most meaningful experiences of our 16 days in Ireland was a taxi tour of Derry. Our driver was a man in his early 40's who had been an IRA freedom fighter as a teenager and young adult. He had spent five years in prison where he earned two college degrees. He was bright, articulate, balanced and full of information and hope. We can't guarantee that every driver would be that informative but he was excellent. Derry Taxi Tours. We would suggest adding this option to your tour section for Derry. The cost was 25 euros for the four of us for an almost three hour tour.

Dale and Carla Harris, Hillsboro, Oregon

Dale and

Dale in Harris, OR USA 09/30/2007

A B&B in Dingle Clonmara, Milltown, Dingle Wonderful hosts, very helpful and informative. 10 minute (at most) walk to town A GORGEOUS view of the harbor from several rooms and the beautiful garden area. Quiet, clean, very modern and affordable. Hosts: Blandin & Michael O'Connor Milltown, Dingle, Co. Kerry. Telephone: 066-9151656

Ellen Veazey in Norway, Ma USA 09/27/2007

Rick does not recommend staying Doolin, but we did. We got the recommendation of the Dubhlinn House. Joan and Martin were very friendly, and made us feel very comfortable. It was dark, cold and rainy and we were very glad that we did not have to drive far to get to our bed after hearing the great music in the pubs.

Mark & Kathy in Santa Clara, CA USA 09/24/2007

My husband and I rented a car in Dublin and traveled from Dublin north to Belfast and then down to leave through Shannon. If anyone would like any input please email me at irishroverchris@gmail.com

chris helman in berea, oh USA 09/22/2007

Cullinan's Restaurant and Guest House website - www.cullinansdoolin.com - great place in Doolin Quay Wesst website quaywest@eircom.net - great place in Westport We followed Rick's drive from Westport on the R335 past the Coffin ship and Croagh Patrick to Leenane to Kylemore Abbey. The drive was lovely with great views, sheep meandering everywhere.

chris and jim helman in berea, oh USA 09/22/2007

Cullinan's Seafood Restaurant and Guest House in Doolin- James and Carol Cullinan - great stay with them and they helped us with our flat tire - please include them! Quay West in Westport - David Kelly - lovely place and David is very accommodating

chris and jim helman in berea, oh USA 09/22/2007

When all of Rick's B&B recommendations in Galway were full, we found Griffin Lodge. It's a family owned/run B&B with a convenient and quiet location. The best part is they placed traffic cones out front to reserve parking for guests.

http://www.irishholidays.com/griffin.shtml

Scott Joiner in Santa Clara, CA USA 09/21/2007

Dunlavin House in Dingle was fantastic ! Denise was everything a host should be ! The view was awesome-as well as the breakfast. Shower had power ! Room was huge !

Kathy in Coldwater, MI USA 09/20/2007

Your book was incredibly helpful on our recent trip to Ireland for our honeymoon! Everything was perfect and we used a lot of your book in place of paying for tours. Or found the book to be just as informationals as the tour guides.

We did find a hotel in Dublin that would be worth listing. The George Handel Hotel on Fishamble Street right at the end of Temple Bar. For Sunday through Thursday, the rate is only 99.00 euros and was clean, pretty easy to find, and close to Temple Bar and O'Connell Street. It came recommended to us by some friends who stayed there a couple of years ago.

Also, John Cleer's in Kilkenny on a Monday night for the best singing bartender and local's playing great music! It was recommended by a local when we went for dinner!

Sara Curran in St. Louis, MO USA 09/17/2007

Just spent 2 weeks on the Dingle Pinn....staying in Dunquin. Cool, lots of rain but never spent a day indoors!! Oh..all the beach spots, the Blaskets and the Blasket Center...fabulous!! It was a family reunion of 3 generations and I'd go back again in a second. Have bought Ryan's Daughter just to enjoy the scenery! Took your recommended tour of the old archeological sites which was excellent. Had many good meals in the pubs, Kreuger's reopened and the place was jumping!! Do love this part of Ireland....even went to Mass in Irish in the old Dunquin church where Tomas O'Crohan is buried and visited Peig Sayers grave as well. It's a place that seems to be disappearing and I'm happy I was there while it's still a piece of old Ireland.

Florence Mahoney in Rockville, Md USA 09/01/2007

We saw found two nice places to eat in Bushmill. One was called Cafe 13 (?) and one was the Old Distillary I believe. Really enjoy your books and have used them in Italy, France, GB and Spain. This is the first time we have thought you should take a hotel off your list that we stayed at (Townhouse in Dublin see below. Otherwise it was another great trip. Thank you see and your staff.

John McGuire in Minneapolis, MN USA 08/27/2007

We visited in June, 2007 Before you depart: - Purchase euros before you depart. Have euros handy for taxi and toll roads. (Toll roads are around Dublin and Cork) Only a few banks sell euros, so purchase them well in advance of your departure. - Email/Contact all accommodations to get specific directions and confirm your length of stay before you leave the USA. Some B&Bs/Farmhouses are really off the main roads and are difficult to find due to the lack of road markers even with the Ordance Survey Atlas. - Take a travel alarm or watch alarm because many B&Bs/Farmhouses don’t have clock radios. - Everyone smokes so be warned. - Be sure you clearly understand your international cell phone capabilities. Keep the emergency contact number in a safe place. - Alert your credit card company of your travel dates and keep the emergency contact number in a safe place. - Check your medical coverage restrictions and alert them to your travel dates. Be sure you get itemized copies of any bills, receipts, etc for any medical care/needs. Once you get there: - Buy a Heritage Card at the first place that sells them. Some places don’t take VISA for their purchase. - See if your travel agent or tour package company sells/provides the Heritage Island Card (a discount booklet). Brendan Tours provided it. These are definitely worth it! - Most pubs only serve Guinness, Carlsberg, Heineken, Bud and Miller beer. A glass of 7-Up costs more than a 1/2 pint of Guinness. - Many pubs don’t serve food so children under 18 can’t go in. Pubs that do serve food stop serving around 9pm when the music starts, so it’s difficult to find places for the kids to listen to live Irish Music. In Temple Bar, the upstairs part of Gogarty’s has decent food and they don’t kick kids out at 9pm. Music is good! - Ring of Kerry – we drove counter clockwise (against Rick Steve’s suggestion) but we left Killarney by 7am. We stopped at a gas station at the beginning of the route and picked up breakfast and lunch. The StatOil just outside Killorglin opens at 7:30am and has great food. We only met 2 busses and they pulled off while we kept going. We picnicked in the parking lot at Staigue Fort (great view!). We still made it back in time to see Torc Waterfall and Muckross House. - Dartfield Horse Museum, between Loughrea and Killreekill, on road from Galway to Dublin, is a nice little museum, offers trail rides, nice tack shop but not really worth the admission price without the Heritage Island Card discount. - Clonmacnoise, outside Athlone, is as amazing as Glendolough! B&Bs/Farmhouses: Waterford Castle, Waterford = difficult to find and expensive, but well worth it for one night. They are building a horse arena/stables and should be finished in 2008. Golf course is expensive but beautiful. Briar Lodge B&B, Bunratty = great innkeeper and breakfast (french toast); very helpful Fort View Farmhouse, Kinvara = innkeeper was aloof, breakfast was dull, it's way off the main road; don't stay here!

D Husby in Moraga, CA USA 08/24/2007

The Legends B & B in Cashel does have a restaurant, but it offers a single set 3-course meal (with limited choices). It appeared to be a very nice menu, but not family-friendly. The dinner guests, adapting to the meal price, were in more than casual attire.

Margo Malakoff in Sierra Madre, CA USA 08/23/2007

The Camp Junction B&B on the Dingle Peninsula was a good find. This is a 2 yr old B&B run by the very hospitable John Doyle, a local who knows the area well. Great Irish breakfast incldued for our 100 euros / nite for three. The location requires a car since it is out in the country, about halfway between Dingle town and Tralee. Makes for a good sleeping location if you want to travel both the Kerry and Dingle peninsulas. Web site is www.campjunctionhouse.com

Telford Williams in Mpls, MN USA 08/20/2007

Tips: 1)The best way to see Ireland is to rent a car and drive it. 2)If you rent a car, figure out before you leave the country if your insurance will cover you, or if your credit card will provide insurance for you. 3) Do not rent and drive a car in Ireland without the maximum insurance you can get. Driving in Ireland is the best way to see the island by far, but it's hazardous. 4) When you rent your car, figure out where the passenger side of your car is by carefully driving closer and closer to the edge of the road until the hedges scrub your car so hard they push in your sideview mirror in. You will need to know how far you can get over when an american comes around a blind hairpin in your lane. Your life depends on it. 5)Eat local food. Don't eat at McDonald's. 6)If you have to eat at McDonald's, please don't throw your McDonald's fast food bags out of the car window on the Dingle Peninsula. (Yes - I saw this happen.) 7) Take lots of pictures. 8) Rick says to tour the island with the expectation that you will return. I disagree with this. See the island as though you will die tomorrow. You'll get more out of your trip, and you may not ever be back. You never know. 9) Do not walk on the left side of the road. Walk on the right side of the road, facing traffic. Most people don't realize how dangerous it is to walk on the wrong side of the road in Ireland. Trust me. It's suicide. 10) You mention in the guidebook that they will offer to convert your bill to dollars on the spot when you charge something. I had a restaurant/bar in Kenmare convert mine without asking me when they ran it. You might want to mention that people watch for this and suggest what we can do. I guess I could have disputed it, but it's a little intimidating to be in a foreign country using a foreign currency, so I just let it go, unsure if what they had done was S.O.P., illegal, or just under-handed. 11) I put the Red L's on my car as you suggested. It helped, I think. Made me feel better anyway. 12) Seeing Ireland by train is not a very good way to see the country. I took a train from Dublin to Cork, thinking it would be a splendid way to see the countryside. Wrong. Hedges grow up around the train track almost the whole way, limiting visibility immensely. Big disappointment. 13) I didn't see anything in the book about the ocean temperatures. My point is, it's too cold to swim in the ocean. OK. You could swim in it. I saw some people doing this. However, it's cold. PRobably as cold the ocean on the coast of Oregon, would be my guess. 14) Garda/Police. I'd say you might want to mention that you can drive as fast as you dare. You might hit sheep, cows, or a tractor, but I doubt the police would stop you. We hardly saw any police/garda the entire trip, and we covered about 1/3 of the island.

Rob Kiser in Morrison, CO USA 08/16/2007

Stayed at the Twin Peaks B&B in Doolin. Proprieter Noel O'Connor and his sister who run the B&B truly made our time in Ireland spectacular. We only spent 2 nights here, but wished we could have spent more, simply because of these great people. Steve, add them to your Doolin B&B list! http://www.doolin-accommodations.com/index.html

Shannon Buckner in Brussels, Belgium 08/12/2007

Desmond House next door to the Presbytery in Kinsale. Gorgeous room, fine hosts

Jean Boler in Seattle , Wa USA 08/11/2007

Restaurant David Norris - Tralee, Co. Kerry Ivy House Ivy Terrace , Tralee Co Kerry Tel:+353 (0)66 718 5654 This is an exceptional restaurant by any standard. None better in any large metropolitan area.

Mary Jane in Archenbronn, CA USA 08/09/2007

Cahir Castle (in Cahir) was the best castle tour I've ever been on. Its not far from Rock of Cashel and is much more interesting (in my opinion) Also, the Glen of Atherlow (again, nearby) is great. Beautiful walks,stone age tomb and cairn and Saint's wells.

Shannon Roberts in Glenside, PA USA 08/08/2007

If you would like to see Ashford Castle (outside Cong) without paying the 5 Euro charge per person, you can enter the grounds of Ashford Castle by driving through the city of Cong and entering the Castle grounds through the "back way" near the church.

C. Ruiz in Phoenix, AZ USA 08/08/2007

My wife and I just returned from three weeks in Ireland and loved it (even if the weather was wet). When we booked B&Bs three and four months ahead, all the places recommended in Rick's book for Kenmare were full. So, we found Abbeycourt, with Geraldine and Brendan. It is right next to the golf course. The building is like a small castle itself; purpose built for lodging. The grounds fantastic, and a lovely view of the area. The cost is the same as other B&Bs. And, they were tremendous hosts (promoted gathering in the late afternoon with tea and cookies provided, loaned us maps for day use, and gave us choices for breakfast.) Check them out.

As for the VAT refund, do it! It was easy, if you remember to get a tax voucher when you make the proper refundable purchases.

And, lastly, the music concert in St. James in Dingle (Thursday evenings only) and the Evensong performance on WEd./Thurs eve. at Christchurch Cathedral in Dublin were one of our most memorable events.

And, consider adding a trip to Cahir and the castle. It has been completely restored so it feels like being in a complete, operating castle.

Sincerely,

Dan Peterson in Brier, WA USA 08/08/2007

We absolutely loved the suggestions from Rick Steve's Ireland guidebook. A couple of additional suggestions We think you should add "The Acres" Bed and Breakfast near Dingle to your list of recommended accomodations. Martin and Paula Taylor are the consummate hosts, providing wonderful suggestions for hiking, dining, and even providing maps, offers to pick us up at the end of a hike etc. Their rooms are beautiful and comfortable, and breakfasts phenomenal.

We also loved staying at "Evergreen" B and B near Swords outside of Dublin. This excellent accomodation is ten minutes from Dublin airport, but is on a quiet road in a beautiful setting. Mary and Jimmy Canavan are delightful hosts who also offered much help and flexibility with our complicated arrival and departure arrangements, and gave us excellent advice on seeing and getting to Dublin.

Barbara Stark-Nemon in Ann Arbor, MI USA 08/08/2007

Your accomodation suggestion - Boulevard Guest House

Patricia McManus in Haworth, NJ USA 08/07/2007

The Burren Perfumery Shop and Tea House was great!! I cannot believe Achill Island is not mentioned as a site to see anywhere in this book. The scenery there is absolutely gorgeous and the TI representative was so friendly. Keem Bay and the Deserted Village are worth the day there. In Newport, Mayo..Anchor House B&B (Maureen McGovern)had nice views of the harbor and great hospitality. Also The Grainne Uaile Pub had outstanding food and was named Mayo Pub of the Year 2006

Mary Wise in Bay Village, OH USA 08/02/2007

Hi Rick... The Skelligs islands were the most memorable part of our 19 day Ireland trip. We got super lucky because the weather was amazing the day we made it to the islands. The day before and the day after were both rainy. I encourage everyone who can handle a moderate hike and a short boat trip see this world heritage site.

James in Seattle , WA USA 08/01/2007

It was hard to find accomodation on the Dingle Peninsula, so we ended up staying in Annascaul outside of Dingle. We LOVED the bed and breakfast I found through another website. The owners were amazing and a highlight of our trip. Contact info: Noel & Moira, Annascaul House, Annascaul, Co. Kerry

Phone: +353 (0) 66 9157033

Web: www.annascaulhouse.ie

Amy in Kloese, IL USA 07/27/2007

not really.

Sandy Patrick in Taylorville, IL USA 07/24/2007

Nua Haven in Dublin was a great place for my wife and I to stay. It is not for those who want the full Irish breakfast as it is a buffet breakfast, continental style, but the location is fantastic. It is an easy 30 minute walk, which we thoroughly enjoyed discoverying the neighborhoods. It was great to enjoy the loud and energetic life in the city centre and then come "home" to the quiest B&B location I have ever stayed in. It is located near Harold's Cross just south of the canal. It is on a quiet residential street with a city park space directly across from it. The rooms are large and immaculate. The building has been newly constructed. It is also one block from the bus line. We never did use the bus for the ride into town, we just used it at the end of the day to return home at night. Contact information is at: http://www.nuahaven.com/

Paul Stanley in Maple Ridge, BC Canada 07/19/2007

Please advise to be wary of car/ trunk space. We rented from hertz on-line throgh aer lingus: a Mazda 6 or comparable for four adults and 4 bags(as per website): couldn't fit one bag!! How do they golf in Ireland?? Needed to upgrade which doubled the cost.

Kathy Ryan in Rockaway Beach, NY USA 07/18/2007

Ireland, Bushmill Tour visited July 14, 2007. Change in the volunteer info provided in Rick's book.

Elaine Hart in Dallas, Tx USA 07/16/2007

--In addition to Rick's book, I'd also recommend for further reading: Culture Smart Ireland (Culture Shock Consulting)

--Perhaps already mentioned in Rick's book, but I followed the advice in Culture Smart Ireland pertaining to common courtesy practices. I discovered that saying "please" and "thank you" as noted in the Culture Smart book went an extremely long way when dealing with middle-aged and older Irish and opened lots of doors. I probably heard (and said) "please" more in that week in Ireland than I have my entire life--and didn't regret it.

--Never drive faster than you can see and safely brake. My first 15 minutes ever of driving in Ireland, I discovered that even National roads can become alarmingly narrow around the bend (especially when a truck is barrelling down the opposite direction).

--Bang-on advice in the book about not expecting to drive quickly. One can make healthy time on the EU-subsidized roads (while exercising _extreme_ caution overtaking), but driving slowly through villages and smaller N roads is simply a reality.

--On nearly all occasions, drivers in West Ireland (only place I went) were extremely polite (Rick's "sharing the road" comment), and I'd recommend that the book briefly mention that it's wise for us to follow common practice and let people merge into traffic at intersections, etc., even if we have the right of way.

--I picked up (removable) vinyl L stickers at Eason's in Galway. For those new to driving in Ireland, I think this is a worthy courtesy to native drivers who will exercise more caution.

--A brief description on polite use of turn signals at roundabouts would be nice. These were frequently used (and I likely caused a little grief by not doing so).

Pete Lee in Portland, OR USA 07/10/2007

Kissane Sheep Farm www.kissanesheepfarm.com N71 Moll's Gap Kenmare t:064 34791 After seeing thousands of sheep in Scotland and Ireland it was a treat to visit this farm and get answers to all our questions about sheep and sheep farms. The Kissanes are so friendly and accommodating and their working farm is fun and informative. We felt like family friends visiting instead of customers. Definitely worth a stop or a side trip!

Cindy Lemmer in Green Bay, WI USA 07/08/2007

I'd like to offer some tips for families traveling to Ireland with younger teens. We just returned from a family trip with our almost-14-year-old son, and there were several things he really enjoyed:

Local sports. He became fascinated with hurling, and the purchase of a hurling stick and ball provided lots of entertainment on the trip. We also watched a cricket game in progress on the grounds of Trinity College in Dublin.

Blarney Castle -- I know Rick thinks this is a tourist trap, but we found it quite fun. My son particularly enjoyed the challenge of climbing all the steps up and kissing the stone. Lots of rocks and caves for active boys to explore!

Waterford Crystal Factory Tour -- An excellent tour the whole family enjoyed. My teen was fascinated watching the craftsmen in all the steps, and got a kick out of seeing all the sports trophies Waterford has made.

Rebecca Stowe in Jefferson, GA USA 07/05/2007

Galway, west of Ireland.

Karen Platt in Cardiff, n/ Wales 07/02/2007

Dunromin B&B, Dublin Road, Kilkenny; tel: 056-7761387; Tom & Val Rothwell - excellent B&B and charming hosts; easy to find and walking distance to city center; www.dunrominkilkenny.com

Roadford House Restaurant, Doolin Village; (065-707-5050); excellent dinner in very tasteful setting; Frank & Marian Sheedy, Owner/Chef and Hostess, respectively; contact: roadfordhouse@eircom.net

Mermaid Cafe, 69-70 Dame Street, Dublin 2; (01-670-8236); www.mermaid.ie; excellent quality lunch for reasonable price; dinner menu also looked good (albeit more expensive)

Bridie McDermott, "Cashel Cairns" B&B, Westport area (between Castlebar and Westport); (098-35141); immaculate B&B with very warm and welcoming hosts; in a quiet rural setting about 4km south of N-5; great base for travel in the Connemara area.

Bob Lata in Paso Robles, CA USA 07/01/2007

I only had a few days to spend this trip, but I can't wait to go back. I spent three days in Dublin and two in Dingle. Next time, I would spend less time in Dublin. Too big and too fast paced for me on vacation. I did the pub crawl, which I loved, but please recommend to your readers to make reservations. I don't have the info, but it can be found at the TI. I showed up early and had dinner beforehand, but when it came time to sign up, I was told it was already full, although I was the first in line. Many people were turned away. I was traveling by myself and evidently looked pathetic enough, so she let me slide. Everything else was wonderful, though. I love your books and have not been surprised by anything so far. I stayed at the Last Cottage in Dingle, and your description "museum-like" and "comfortably cluttered" hit the nail on the head. It was great. Thanks!

Angela McConnell in Madras, OR USA 06/29/2007

After reading Ricks Steves Ireland, we decided to take a trip to the Dingle Peninsula and stay in Dingle Town in early June 2007. It was the best part of our Ireland/Scotland trip. We flew into Shannon and drove to the town of Dingle the next day. We did not stay at any of the B&B's listed in your book as they were full. I did book us three rooms at Murphy's B&B (right next to Murphy's Pub B&B). Our hosts were wonderful. The rooms were en suite and spotless with very comfortable beds. We had a parlor upstairs that looked out over the Harbor. Breakfast was tradishional Irish in a lovely room overlooking the harbor also. We were given many tips on exploring the Peninsula, which we took and were very pleased. Murphy's B&B is located on the main street, across from the Harbor. Right next door was Murphy's Pub where we listed to Traditional Irish Music being played nightly from 9 to 12. Tons of shopping right at hand. Our Hosts made this a wonderful time for us and I believe Murphy's B&B should be added to your Guidebook. We will certainly return again.

Debra Brown in San Diego, CA USA 06/27/2007

If you ever HAVE to go to Cork, eat at Greene's Restaurant,48 MacCurtain St., hidden under a cobblestone arch and a little hard to find. Yummy. Seating by fabulous outdoor waterfall.

Also, I found that a coffee or latte and dessert were not much more money in a nice hotel, than in a loud coffee house.

Kevann Lamkin in Azusa, CA USA 06/15/2007

Cafe En Seine 39 Dawson St Dublin near Grafton St. Food so-so, but atmosphere art deco,rocco, astonishing. Woderful bathrooms.

Kevann Lamkin in Azusa, USA 06/15/2007

Just a quick tip: when picking up your rental car, don't forget to also inspect the tires before driving off! I popped a tire within the first few hours of driving. When the local tire shop in Kinsale (very helpful staff, by the way) pulled it out to look at it, there were so many rub marks that I assume I was the last of a long line of folks who'd hit curbs or something - but it hadn't popped until my "lucky" hit.

Elizabeth in Burlingame, CA USA 06/11/2007

We learned from our B&B hostess in Dun Laoghaire that from June 1 through August, those providing accomodations within County Dublin are to charge an additional Euro 7.50 per night per room.

Robert McNaughton in Middletown, CT USA 06/10/2007

Both Air Coach and Air Link buses stop on O'Connell. Air Coach loads luggage under the bus, while Air Link passengers take their luggage into the bus with them. This makes Air Link buses very crowded and time consuming to load and unload.

Sharron Stevens in Oberstaufenbach, Germany 06/10/2007

(1) If you're staying overnight in County Clare, visit the Cliffs of Moher at sunset. The crowds are gone, the cliffs are gorgeous tinted in gold from the setting sun, and the car park is open and free of charge at that hour.

(2) Stay overnight in Cashel and see the Rock first thing in the morning. It's a mystical place when it's quiet, before the tour buses start arriving.

Melissa in Fairfax, VA USA 06/08/2007

Notice to intended GALWAY TRAVELLERS. There has been a boil water notice in Galway since mid March. Latest indications in local press are that it will remain in place until mid June. Issue is crytosporidium in water. For those who may be particularly at risk due to prior or current medical condition, tap water is ill advised, care to be taken with ice in drinks and uncooked food washing in dining establishments. Outside Galway accomodations may be good alternative to those at risk or for those who would feel better in a clear water environment.

McNeil's On Canda 06/04/2007

This is a big thank you for getting us out of a blind spot during our first ever Ireland tour which went marvelously having used your book as a guide. Story is we headed from Kinsale north to the ferry for Cobh and ended up at the international ferry terminal. I had been navigating and blithely following the ferry signs. My husband said, "Hand me the guide book!" and in no time we were on our way to the right ferry. Only time we opened the book while there because I had been able to plan so well ahead of time. Thanks a million!

Peggy McGrath in Oak Bluffs, MA USA 06/04/2007

Thank you for your guide - very user friendly information, like how to dial the phone, where to stop, maps to use, etc. Thanks, too, for the general km/miles per hour equivalents - my rental car only had kms, and it was rather disconcerting crossing over into Northern Ireland to find fewer circled speed limits and more of "slow", "slower" and "very slow" references painted on the roads without knowing exactly what thay might mean.

I also laughed at the narrow windy roads with 100 km posted speed limits just in front of a hairpin turn or a sudden reduction in speed warning just a few feet beyond!!

We were probably too ambitious during our 8 days on the ground - and didn't refer often enough to the general driving time recommendations on p. 23, or the direct routes either - we did a lot of coastal route transit between major northern points and found we had little time to enjoy the destination, but did really enjoy the views along the various coastline communities.

Colleen in Bloom, MD USA 06/04/2007

The Cliffs of Moher opened a new tour center, restaurant, and gift shop in February 2007. It is a welcome addition. A parking lot has also been established with a 8 euro fee to park.

David Evans in Oak Hill, VA USA 06/01/2007

Blarney Castle is very worth the time, even though it is a tourist stop. Especially in spring, it was lovely.

Katherine and Allen Steele in Brambleton, VA USA 05/16/2007

Just returned from 2 weeks in Ireland and followed Rick's book for most of the trip. What a wonderful country! One place not mentioned in his book that we loved was Clonmacnoise, a monastic settlement along the Shannon River in central Ireland. Interesting video, museum as well as the sight itself.

Judy Johnson in Alexandria, MN USA 05/11/2007

We spent a night at the Markree Castle in Collooney and really enjoyed it. It manages to be elegant, yet old and well-worn enough to be both charming and comfortable. Everything was clean, the food was good and the grounds were beautiful. It's one of the less-expensive castle stays, and overall it was a real treat. I would most definitely go back again.

Mary Alcorn in Fort Hancock, TX USA 05/09/2007

I discovered a wonderful B&B through a co-worker who grew up with the wonderful woman who owns, lives there and runs the Villa Maria in Leagh South, Burren, Co. Galway, her name is Anne Martin. email:vmaria@eircom.net, tel:353(0)65 7078019. She is a delightful human being and perfect hostess. The house is immaculate and the back yard is the Burren and the front yard looks out on Galway Bay. She took me sightseeing when her time permitted since I was traveling alone. Her dog, Sheila, golden lab, provided a much needed pet fix. The location is perfect for the Castle in Kinvara or the Cliffs of Moher, Galway and the Burren.

Kathleen Surrette in Stratford, CT USA 05/07/2007

We spent 3 weeks in Northern Ireland in September of 2005. My mother parents were from the Ards so we spent time with relatives for a week staying in a "self catering cottage". That was way fun! Then we ventured out spending time going from east coast to the west coast and then up along the northern coast. Gorgeous! Wow is all I can say. We found by accident a hidden away gem of a place in Cushendall, County Antrim. The best view in Ireland at the Culbidagh House Bed and Breakfast. A lovely clean charming newer home up high on the hills overlooking the Irish Sea. The owners are darling! We had a difficult time leaving as we were having so much fun with the owners! Roisin Hamill is the hostess. Phone in Ireland is 028 2177 1312 Mobil 077 12 815 331. Enjoy! and All the Best! HarLyn Mlynek Colorado Springs, Colorado USA

HarLyn Mlynek in Colorado Springs, Co USA 05/06/2007

Markree Castle, County Sligo. The grounds were marvelous,the dinners to-die-for and the service was great! www.markreecastle.ie

karen williams in windsor heights, ia USA 04/29/2007

The Old Courthouse in Lifford (Co.Donegal)(info@liffordoldcourthouse.com) Excellent presentation of the justice and jail system in Ireland under English rule. Audio visual presentations are follwed by a guided tour of the cells with stories of actual cases. We had ages 15 to 74 in our group of 12 and everyone enjoyed the stop.

In Donegal Town there is a very good guided tour of Donegal Castle - lots of history leading up to English rule and the flight of the Earls. This should be done the day before Lifford Jail.

To see a master of stone sculpture (he was working on a copy of the cross at Clonmacnoise for the Ancient Order of the Hibernians in Portland, Oregon) visit Brendan McGloin at the Dongal Craft Village. He is self taught and his carvings are beautiful. brendanmcgloin@iolfree.ie

At Caherconnell stone fort in the Burrens the rental of headsets for 1 euro is a must. Excellent presentation on what you are seeing as you wander around the area.

In Galway, Conor Riordan (+353(0)877782887) gives an excellent walking tour of the city including the old cemetary where 400 Spanish soliders of the Armada were hanged. e-mail:info@legendtours.ie

Elizabeth Whalen in Miami, Fl USA 04/20/2007

We found the ireland guide book to be excellent. We went to Dingle and followed the book for our own dingle experience. The guide was so good we did not need to go on a tour. Another one of your readers used Cill Breac house b.and b. It was perfect and located on the slea head drive. Your guidebook also helped us by warning of the location and diffuculty of finding the Cobh[COVE} ferry. The book was well worth the money. By the way, the weather was warm, beautiful, and no rain during the first week of April. We came back to snow in Virginia. Thanks for the guide!

thomas b. and marcia m. lynn in gloucester, va USA 04/12/2007

There are a number of very attractive, convenient b&bs in Dublin's Upper Drumcondra Road area. We stayed at Azalea Lodge (azalealodge@eircom.net), which was terrific in every way. We also loved Carriglea (archers@iol.ie), a stone's throw from Kilkenny Castle.

M Heffron in Exeter, NH USA 04/11/2007

Does anyone know why Limestone Lodge in Kenmare is no longer listed in 2007 guidebook? Is Siobhan still running this as a B&B?

Bruce USA 04/09/2007

Kinsale: The Greyhound Pub. A great pub with chatty locals.

Kilkenny: Paris, Texas Pub. A great pub which featured local traditional Irish bands.

Erin Peabody in Great Lakes, IL USA 03/30/2007

The Grey Hound Pub in downtown Kinsale is an outstanding pub worthy of consideration for inclusion in your book.

Todd Peabody in Great Lakes, IL USA 03/29/2007

The Boulevard Guesthouse Westport, County Mayo

Curt Iles in Dry Creek, LA USA 03/18/2007

A little cafe I really enjoyed in Dublin was the Queen of Tarts on Dame Street. This cute little cafe is right across the street from the Dublin Castle, so it is a perfect lunch stop. The food was excellent and the desserts, very yummy. I had the Baily's Chocolate Chip Cheesecake and it was wonderful! The place is owned by two sisters, Yvonne was working that day and she struck up a conversation with me while I ate my lunch. I was in Dublin for the week and on my own so she gave me some helpful hints for single ladies. I enjoyed the expereince very much and thought that other followers of Rick Steves' would enjoy it too.

Anne Hughes in Bothell, WA USA 03/05/2007

My husband and I travelled to Ireland in May and the only accomodations we made before were our first 2 nights in Dublin. We reserved a car to pick up after our 2 days in Dublin (no need for a car in Dublin). We drove from city to city and your book (Rick Steves' Ireland 2006) was perfect.

Grecco's in Toledo, OH USA 01/22/2007

If in Galway, be sure to wander off the main street and enjoy great little shops, restaurants, and pubs with few if any tourists. Also note that one can easily walk to Salthill.

Brett Fleitz in Carmel, In USA 01/10/2007

The Arlington (pub)in Dublin has free live Irish music and dancing. The Brazen Head restaurant in Dublin was a neat place to eat, recorded Irish music playing, fires burning in the fireplaces, enjoyed the atmosphere.

Baron McCue's in Ennis had a peat fire burning and a wonderful meal of roast beef and vegetables.

Wilma Sutton in Hudson, IN USA 12/13/2006

The kitten at Kilmalkedar Church on the Dingle Peninsula was so adorable! He was a playful, small black, white, and gray striped tabby. He was kind of wild but let me pick him up. I was trying to figure out a way to bring him back to the States! If anyone sees him, be sure to grab a weed...he loves to chase them through the grass. He will even pose for you when you take your camera out...he did for me twice; looking directly into the camera lens! A definite highlight of my Ireland vacation (fall 2006).

Deborah McManman in Cottage Grove, OR USA 12/10/2006

B&B's to add: Dunlavin House, Dingle, Celtic House, Kilkenny, Dubhlinn House, Doolin - the best breakfast in Ireland!

Also you might want to add Jerpoint Abbey, and the subsequent drive originating from Kilkenny, to Cashel. It takes about 90-120 min of country road driving, but its a great medieval sight-seeing day. In addition to Jerpoint - with the best Romanesque altar besides Cashel - you get to see Kells Priory with its walled enclosure, Fethard a picturesque medieval village and a good stop for lunch, then Cashel and Cahir just to the south. The drive can easily be done in a day with an early departure from Kilkenny.

John Bradley & Charles Keenan in Jersey City, NJ USA 12/06/2006

Delightful B&B: http://www.theoldconvent.ie/ The Old Convent Gourmet Hideaway, Glogheen, County Tipperary, Ireland.

Centrally located as one web site touts: Clogheen is exactly 45 miles from Cork, Kilkenny, Limerick and Waterford.

Off N-8, near Mitchelstown. East on R-665 through Ballyporeen (President Reagan ancestral home, the pub from this town was purchased, packed and moved to Reagan's Presidential Library site Simi Valley, California. Reagan visited here in June, 1984). In Glogheen follow signs toward St. Theresa's Hospital and The Vee (The Vee is the mountain pass over the Knockmealdown Mountains, from this point you can see four counties: Limerick, Tipperary, Waterford and Cork). The Old Convent built in the 1800's was part of a school, dairy, convent and hospital. The Old Convent was sold in the 1990's as a B&B then a Holistic Healing center then to Fine Dining and a B&B opening in May 2006. The Old Convent is owned by Christine and Dermot Gannon. Christine an American and Dermot an internationally trained Chef from near Galway, Ireland (Dermot is one of 11 children!). Eight Course meals (50 Euro) are offered Thursday-Sunday but limited to 42 guests. The courses change nightly with exception of the signature chocolate fondue dessert. Bed and Breakfast rooms are available nightly (60-80 Euro double occupancy). The rooms are stunning right down to the heated towel racks. We stayed in the Honeymoon suite. Large comfortable bed, large bath, separate toilet and shower. None of the rooms have television which is a plus. Breakfast was made to order in the dining room which had been the Chapel when the convent was in operation. Previously the Christine and Dermot Gannon had a restaurant in Cahir, Ireland: Gannons Above The Bell. The restaurant was favorably reviewed in Georgina Campbell's Ireland Guide.

Shannon Airport: Our last night in Ireland we stayed at Gallowsview B&B. Near Bunratty. http://www.ireland-bnb.net/display.html?id=838 Nice accommodations (32E each) wonderful breakfast. Four choices in addition to cereals. Very nice Irish woman (Mary). This is the only place in all of Europe that I have found wash clothes!

Jon T. Haugen in VANCOUVER, WA USA 11/26/2006

Mrs. Teresa McDonagh Ard Mhuire Knocknacarra Road, Salthill, Galway, Co Galway Tel 091 522344 email teresa@ardmhuire.com Web www.ardmhuire.co This was such a nice lady, she has been in the business a long time and is great at recommending tours and destinations. She is very kind and welcoming and really goes the extra mile in making you feel at home.

Karen Rutledge in The Dalles, Or USA 11/18/2006

The Acres B&B is literally in the shadow of Minard Castle. It has only been in operation as a B&B for about a year, but the house is very well suited for guests. They have both spacious family rooms or cozy rooms all beautifully decorated. Their breakfast was delicious and the variety was fantastic. The views are spectacular and the beautiful sea is just a few yards away. Busy An Daingean is just a few miles west, but you'd never know it at this wonderful retreat. Our hosts, Paula & Martin Taylor, made us feel as though we were visiting old friends. This was definitely our favorite B&B of our whole trip. Please check their website www.theacres.co.uk for more info and use their mobile phone number 00353 876609972 to reach them.

Martin Reynolds in Coatesville, PA USA 11/16/2006

Our biggest tip would be, "If in doubt, go with Rick's recommendation." The cheapest thing and most helpful to stay in touch was a Global Telephone Card. We paid 5 Euro and could have up to 45 minutes worth of calls. Internet Cafe's were pretty prevalent, even in small ocean-side towns. The costs for these are in 15 minute blocks for 1.50 Euros each.

Dick Vaughan in Houston, Tx USA 11/09/2006

I would recommend the Seascape Inn as a great place to stay in Doolin. http://homepage.eircom.net/~seascape/

Also, the Doolin Crafts Gallery: http://www.doolincrafts.com/magico_builder/www/index.asp?wbid=87&pgid=3211&spgid=0

And, finally the Clare Jam Company http://www.irelandtohere.com/?Display=162

Suzanne Fischer in Durham, NC USA 11/06/2006

Ring of Beara. There were hardly any cars and no tour buses (a big plus since the roads are very, very narrow). It felt very rugged and untouched. It was also the locals number one place to drive versus Dingle and the Ring of Kerry (still very beautiful, in their own respect). Rick Steves says if you sit up at a bar in Ireland - the locals will talk to you - and that is very true. The only places where it didn't happen for us is Galway (big college town), Dublin and Dun Laoghaire. In Dun Laoghaire, there was a pub where locals frequent but obviously, it was an All-Men's pub. They kept telling me to sit up in the front of the bar with one other woman. One man later told me it was called the "Titty Gallery"!

Michele & Jay Carter in Austin, TX USA 10/29/2006

Foley's Pub, Kenmare, for dinner.

Christine Richtman in Alta Loma, Ca USA 10/26/2006

Found a wonderful B&B in Navan, a short drive from Trim called Bothar Alainn House. Owner Josephine McKeigue was extremely friendly and helpful (even picked up our laundry for us.) Close to Trim and not far from the Boyne valley. Phone: 0868188681

Patricia Cassel in Monroe, WA USA 10/24/2006

The prices listed for accomodations for 2006 were atleast 20 euro lower than what we had to pay in October 2006. This was at the Jurys Galway INN and also Clifden guest house in Dublin. Also the ClIFDEN was too expensive for room as the carpet was stained andthe bedsheets had holes. Would not recommend it at all for what they charge. We paid 192 euros for a family room for 4 in Oct 2006. Breakfast was very simple and we could have done better elsewhere if the charge was not included. Also Jurys in Galway charged us 125 euros for each room, no breakfast. This was after we showed them the prices listed in your book.They took off 5 euro a room. Location was good and rooms comfortable.

Vidya in Crownsville, MD USA 10/24/2006

Favorite Discovery - The cliffs of Slieve League near the western extremity of County Donegal. If you have a car, the time, and the nerve to drive the road you will be rewarded with a magnificent view that more than one of our B&B hosts rightly suggested would be superior to the Cliffs of Moher. The signposting is almost non-existent, but just before you get all the way to the Teelin pier at the end of the road, there is a small sign pointing up a road to the right which reads "Cliffs". You will come to a gate and a car park from which you can walk the remaining mile or two, but it is possible to drive on, all the way to the cliffs where you will find another car park at the edge of the earth!

Ron & Kerry Petty in Bakersfield, CA USA 10/21/2006

We ate all of our evening meals at pubs, as we found that with the food quality and price, it was a no brainer. The best advice about how to choose one, is to ask a couple of locals during the day, and we never got a bad recommendation. We were in the Hospitality Business ourselves for 10 years, and were constantly asked the same question...and always willing to give our opinion on our favorite places to eat.

One other tip regarding accommodations, we wanted to stay close to the Dublin airport at the end of our trip, for our 9AM departure. We highly reccommend "Rathview House" in Swords. It is beautifully decorated, spacious, and Sharon was very helpful. It is within walking distance of restaurants and pubs, and 1 block off the main bus line to Dublin. The secret to avoiding rush hour traffic is to leave about 7:00 AM, for an easy 10 minute drive to the rental car return, and then walk accross to the terminal. Sharon gives you a detailed route to the airport on the back of her business card. She also was kind enough to leave a continental breakfast in our room at 8:30 PM, as we were leaving before the hot breakfast was served. This would also work great for someone getting into Dublin later in the day, and needing a close overnight stop. We noticed numerous B&B signs in Swords.

Dan in Ocean Shores, WA USA 10/14/2006

We rented a car with an Automatic Transmision (the right choice). We drove over 1400k in 11 days, and we discovered that you need a good map, hopefully with all the small towns on it. We found that it was helpful to have not only the town you were entering in your mind, but the next one on the route also, as most times that was the only indication of which road to take at an intersection or roundabout, as hiway numbers are rarely posted.

Dan in Ocean Shores, WA USA 10/14/2006

Lisdoonvarna during September is a hoot! My Mom and I spent an afternoon at the Spa Wells listening to an accordian player who played for dancers from all over Ireland, both couples and singles. One woman told us that she comes every year during September and specifically took dancing lessons because there are dances all day long at bars and pubs all over town. She said she drinks the spa water for stamina!

Donna Hecker in Frankfort, KY USA 10/08/2006

We very much enjoyed the southern coastal route from Kinsale to Kenmare, especially the tunnels that led us to Molly Gallivans Tea Shop and Farm.

Also, I will spend the extra money and rent an automatic transmission vehicle next time.

Patricia Drabant in Brooklyn, MI USA 10/04/2006

Jacobs Cottage in the Hibernian Hotel http://www.kilkennyhibernianhotel.com/

Stephen in Lange, MD USA 10/01/2006

On page 101 is Brogan's Guesthouse. We stayed there on the night of September 25 in room 16 which was 80 degrees! We had to move to room 4 which was over the courtyard. A guest said tha the first room was over the boiler room! sharpfls@yahoo.com. I may have the numbers reversed. Will have to check my notes.

Frank Sharp in Norcross , Ga USA 09/30/2006

Bangor now has (since mid-August) a water taxi sailing 3 or 4 times a day to Carrickfergus (15 minutes).It's run by North Irish Diver Ltd (www.northirishlodge.com, 44(0) 28 9338 2246) and costs 8 pounds one way and 13 pounds round trip. It's a lovely, quick ride.

Jan Stewart in Olympia, WA USA 09/28/2006

The speed limit signs in Ireland are just that, they tell you the maximum you can go. But you are not expected to go that fast along much of the road you're driving. What they did was to take the whole length of the road and assign it an overall speed limit, however there are many stretches of the road where you may only be able to go half as fast; or slower The locals, in many cases, will be driving that slow as well. Drive at a speed that you are comfortable with and when a faster car comes up from behind simply move to the left, if possible, and let them pass. And be aware of the signs with the stark black print warning you of a dangerous section coming up. There is usually good reasons for these signs to be posted. "Drive Left and Look Right"

Bruce Grabowski in Barrington Hills, IL USA 09/08/2006

Rick, couldn't have planned our trip without your wonderful guidebook. Our Ireland trip was my gift to my husband's for his 60th birthday. Here are some tips for other travelers.

Car Rental/Driving - navigating the shoals of car rental was a hassle, primarily due to the numerous horror stories. Came across O'Scannlain (US agents for Hertz located in Washington State 1-800-828-0826). They took a lot of the guesswork out of the car rental process and the insurance, plus we received a discount for advance payment. Sent us very clear paperwork re car pickup, what was covered, etc. We weren't that happy with Hertz. Our car had no owners manual and there were things on the dash we never did figure out. There was prior damage to the car they neglected to note on the paperwork we were required to sign -- dent in the door, three windshield dings instead of the one they noted, etc. We photographed the car extensively, made lots of notes, and are hoping for the best. We used a lot of the driving tips from your site. Just one more -- don't forget that you can turn your mirrors in when confronted with tight spaces. We're not used to doing this in the US. In most places in Ireland, it's a good idea to turn them in when you park your car.

Favorite Places/Things to Do: Coming and going, we stayed with the unflappable Mairead (rhymes with parade) Bateman at Park House, Bunratty, not too far from Shannon Airport. Her little dogs are darling and we received a warm Irish welcome. In Bunratty, we enjoyed meeting locals at The Creamery (especially the retired bookie)and had a wonderful last night dinner at Shannon's, the restaurant in the Bunratty Castle Hotel. Great food and service - reasonable prices.

Dingle was unforgettable. Spent 5 nights at Bambury House (Bernie Bambury) - fabulous B&B which is at the edge of town. Met some members of the Rick Steves tour who were staying at Bambury's also. Loved the shops -- the pottery and some crafts here were better than any we saw the rest of our trip. Favorite restaurant was The Old Smokehouse - ate there several times. Best seafod chowder - Ashe's. Try the warm duck salad at Goat's Head Cafe. Doyle's and Lord Baker were good, but on the pricy side. Do not miss:

1. Folk concert at St. James Church, M, W, F - 7:30 pm. Follow this with a trip to The Blue Zone for soft jazz music, the best pizza (try #9), and their Almond and Amaretto ice cream. This was our favorite place in Dingle.

2. Sciuird Tour - Archaeology is the name of the game in this family. Michael Collins was so informative and we later saw several of the places or museum items he described.

If you are driving out to Minard Castle, choose a nice sunny day. Pick up a picnic lunch from the deli at the Esso station on Mail Road. Rick's guidebook does not mention the beautiful beach there. Dingle is a great town, and the scenery at the end of the peninsula is breathtaking. Don't miss any of it. Husband twisted his knee as we were leaving Dingle, so our subsequent sightseeing was curtailed a bit.

Kilkenny - Enjoyed our three-night stay at Laragh House (Helen Cooney). Rather continental atmosphere. We loved the jacuzzi tub in our room. Recommend: bus tour of the city that starts at Kilkenny Castle; tour of Kilkenny Castle; tour of Rock of Cashel. For a nice restaurant, try Zuni's -- pricey, but good. Also had a good time at Kyetler's Pub. Their food is well above average pub grub. Huge servings. My chicken stir fry easily would have fed both of us.

Dun Laoghaire/Dublin - having spent almost a week in Dublin a few years ago, we opted for a quieter spot. Coolfin House (Helen Coughlan)offered a great location -- two minute walk from Sandycove DART station, about a 15-minute ride into Dublin. Helen was so helpful and made our stay such fun. In Dun Laoghaire, Walter's Pub and the Pink Elephant, a new Thai restaurant, were great places to eat. We also liked the little deli/cafe a few doors down from Walter's, but cannot recall the name. You can pick up a nice picnic lunch there.

In Dublin -- Trinity College tour with Elizabeth O'Brien (well-travelled history major)was great. Don't miss the beautiful stained glass windows in the National Library, located next door to the National Museuem. Travel books often forget to mention them. Nearby is the Chocolate Cafe. It's not really a cafe, but they do sell the most delicious confections!

Last, but not least, Willowbrook Guesthouse in Nenaugh is a wonderful B&B with lovely pastoral views. Do visit Patricia sometime.

During our stay, we met some other travelers who were returning from Dungarven, located on the south coast. Based on their glowing reports, we're checking into it for our next trip! Thanks again, Rick!

Mary-Jo in Sequim, WA USA 09/04/2006

After traveling with Rick Steves for over 20 years, we never fail to be impressed with the insights and sage advice he offers for both first time and experienced visitors to Europe. So a very heartfelt thank you to Rick and staff for the great books and PBS shows.

SLEEPING TIP: we have discovered that Rick's listed accommodation recommendations will probably be booked solid for travelers like us who want flexibility and wait to the last moment to finalize our daily itineray, especially during peak season. The Irish Tourist Board will send 2 free excellent publications that make finding a place to stay easier: "Bed and Breakfast Ireland" and "Irish Farm Holidays". We traveled the 1st 2 weeks in August and were able to secure only one of Rick's listings (Crannmor Guest House in Trim was memorable for hospitality and comfort)

Most Optimistic Discovery: We love driving in Europe, even in countries that drive on the "correct" side of the road. But don't expect much guidance regarding reasonable speed as every road is marked "100kph" outside towns and cities. On the scenic road between Kenmare and Killary we found the road signs most humorous with every rollercoaster section and sharp turn preceded by a sign encouraging "100kph".

Dingle Driving TIP: we were fortunate to have a perfect weather day and following Rick's driving tour spent about 6 memorable hours driving the 40km to Kilmalkedar churh. But instead of continuing on the final 7km, we reversed direction and backtracked the 40km to Dingle town. It seemed like a completely different journey when viewing the wonderful scenery in the opposite direction. (The road does not require driving in a clockwise direction as stated in the book)

Day Tour Discovery: Since this was our 1st trip to Ireland, it was hard to decide how to maximize our sightseeing. The most rewarding day trip for us not included in Rick's guide was a loop south of Kilkenny including Kells Priory, Jerpoint Abbey, the ruined churh at Kilfane with the famous effigy of the Cantwell Knight, and the lovely riverfront towns of Grainguenamanagh (thats a mouthful) and Inistioge. This is about a 100Km loop of wonderful historic and beautiful sights.

Ron Wickham in Foster City, CA USA 09/01/2006

Rigney's Farmhouse B&B rigneysfarm.com Caroline and Joe Rigney ph.#061 393988 Outside Adare

Peggy Walker in Cambria, Ca USA 08/27/2006

Day Tours Unplugged provide a tour to Wicklow which was outstanding. The guide was knowledgeable and helpful and provided us with historical as well as anecdotal information. This is a day tour you will long remember as being a highlight of your trip.

Mary Kelly in Levittown, NY USA 08/27/2006

Driving in Ireland We did an 7 day drive around Ireland. I would have appreciated the following info when planning the trip so I thought I would post it. It can be tough knowing how much one can fit in a day. Our days were basically Depart at 9:00 arrive at 5-6:00. Day one: Dun Laoghaire to Dunmore East via Sally Gap, Wicklow Mountains and the Vale of Avoca and Passage East. We stopped at Powerscourt Gardens and Glendalough. Day2: Loop drive to Waterford Crystal Factory, Dunbrody Famine Ship, and Hook Head Lighthouse; doing tours at all three. Day3 Dunmore East to Dingle via Kenmare and the Lakes of Killarney; mostly driving with stops for pictures. Day4 Dingle Loop and enjoyed Dingle Town Day5 Dingle to Spiddal(close to Galway)via Cliffs of Moher and the Burren. (Longest day) Day6 Aran Island day trip Day7 Ricks Connemara Loop Expect to drive about 25-35 miles an hour on most country roads and 35-50 miles an hour on what looks lid a major road on the map. We learned to like driving slowly and the challenge of "threading the needle" between hedge and sheep or bus. CDW complete coverage is absolutely necessary for your peace of mind as you will scrape at least a hedge and likely a rock.

Jaunita Eichman in Wirtz, VA USA 08/26/2006

You can visit the Gallarus Oratory in Dingle for free, though parking may be a challenge. There is a public access lane just beyond the parking lot that bypasses the gift shop and building where the video is shown. You need not pay the admission fee if using this public access, especially good to note because the Oratory is not covered by your Heritage Card.

Kelly Williams in Overland Park, KS USA 08/16/2006

The Southwest of Ireland is incredible. We picked up a car in Dublin, stayed the night at the Harding Hotel and headed out the next day through the Wicklow Mountains to Glendalough. NOTE: You CAN drive in Ireland, but it takes a day or two to get adjusted (England would be a better place to start driving on the left). The back roads are very narrow, hedges and rock walls are very close to the road and locals drive pretty fast. Don't be intimidated, however, it's worth doing. The major roads are fine, but prepare to drive slow on back roads. I opted not to get the "L" sticker for new drivers. Just couldn't do it. Cashel is worth a stop and Kilkenny is a nice place for lunch and a look at the castle. Kinsale is crowded in August, as is Dingle, but we expected it and it was fine. Take the walk to Charles Fort in Kinsdale, have a pint at The Bulman on the way. We rode bikes around the Dingle Peninsula, which was a highlight of the trip. See Paddy's Bike Hire just down from the Mainstay Guest House. The 30-mile trek is pretty flat and takes about 5 hours with a few stops. There's a nice sidewalk cafe in Ballyferriter (across from the church) for lunch. DON"T MISS the folk concert at St. James Church! Go to Murphy's Ice Cream or Dingle Music to get tickets. The music in the pubs is great but the concert is even better. Take the walk from town past the lighthouse to the small peak looking across to the Kerry Peninsula. We dropped the car off in Dublin, took the bus to Belfast and the next day took the ferry to Scotland. Belfast is interesting and we enjoyed walking from the city center to the Sandy Row and Falls Rd. area to see the political murals. Overall, we felt pretty safe in Belfast but most people would probably take a taxi to see these areas.

Dave Johnson in Sacramento, CA USA 08/14/2006

Cleers Pub Kilkenny Best traditional music and fun with the local people. Only on Monday nights. The US bars could use a lesson from this pub. Best part of our trip.

Heidi Fernandez in McMinnville, OR USA 08/09/2006

You omitted one of the truly awesome sights - JerPointe Abbey in Thomastown, Kilkenny. The detail of the surviving carvings of this cistercian monastery is unbelievable and in many ways more impressive than the overcrowded Glendalough. The Heritage Pass, if you're into the culture and history, was a great idea - thanks. More about the wonderful value, though not inexpensive, Hidden Ireland accomodations - you should include Number 31 in Dublin - absolutely the finest way to be welcomed to Ireland for the first time. Also, the Old Bank House in Kinsale combines the warmth of a B&B with the amenities of a fine hotel.

Philip Osattin in Kew Gardens, NY USA 08/07/2006

"Cafe Azteca" in Dublin for breakfast & coffee, just down the hill from Jury's ChristChurch at 19 22 Lord Edward Street.

Our best B&B discovery, Eileen Creed is an excellent hostess, excellent, clean rooms: "Ard Ri House" in Cashel. 353 (0)62 63143, http://www.ardrihouse.com/homepage.htm

For great seafood near Galway: "Donnelly's of Barna" on the coast road just west of Salt Hill. 353 091 592487

Our best meal in Ireland, great Itailan food, fed my family of four for under 50 Euro!!: "Sicilian Restaurant" in Ennis, 353 065 684 3873, http://www.sicilian-restaurant.ie/

Terry McCarthy in Austin, TX USA 08/02/2006

To get to Charles Fort in Kinsale, there is a 2KM walk around the town that arrives at the fort called the Scilly Tour. It's beautiful and a great running and hiking path. From The Gallery to the fort and back is 5KM. The only place I was able to exercise while on vacation in Ireland!

Kelly Cummings in McLean, VA USA 08/02/2006

I disagree with you about bypassing Doolin to stay in Lisdoonvarna. Doolin now has several wonderful B&B and hostels. After pub crawling in Doolin, the thought of getting on that dangerous road to Lisdoonvarna is not a great idea. A place we stayed at in Doolin was Dubhlinn House run by Marin and Joan Reilly. It was a spacious clean room with private bath and a breakfast selection that included fresh fish. They were very welcoming and it was walking distance to all pubs which makes so much sense when doing the Doolin nightlife! www.dubhlinnhouse.com

Janet Koth in Manchester, MO USA 08/02/2006

Please check out the Rockside House in Cashel, Ireland. Rem and Joan Joy have a relatively new B&B that is literally two door, from the entry drive to the Rock of Cashel. The B&B is in an older building that took about two years to refurbish and the interior is gorgeous. The rooms, food and general atmospher are all excellent. Rem and Joy are local people who were born near the Rock and have lived in the area all of their lives. They are two of the most pleasant people that my wife and I have met in our travels. The price of the rooms were about average for the area in May. Both Rem and Joy gave us some very good advice about local sights during our second day in the area.

The second B&B that we think Rick should check out is Balinkeele House in county Wexford, not far from New Ross. It is an estate that was built in 1820 and has been n thecurrent owner's family since the 1840's. They have spent considerable time rebuilding and restoring the house, literally rom the ground floor up. It is a little pricey as B&B's go (about the same as a low range hotel in Dublin), but it is a tremendous value. Guests basically have the run of most of the house and grounds and are welcome to walk all over to their heart's content. They eben supply the boots.

My sife and I think that both of these B&B's are a large cut above average, even for Rick. Please check them out. (No, we aren't getting paid, but if we ever get back, we will stay there again in a heartbeat)

Thanks

William Gruesbeck in Beavercreek, Oh USA 08/01/2006

Bike riding the An Daingean Peninsula Horseback riding with Killarney Park Riding stables Gap of Dunloe Tour

S.S. in Indianapolis, IN USA 07/30/2006

Best accommodation: Whispering Pines B&B, Kenmare, Mary and John Fitzgerald, Tel: 064-41194

Ginger and Walt in Auburn, AL USA 07/19/2006

Please consider adding Clonmacnoise to your tour list. This is in the midlands and would provide a chance for the visitor to see the farmland interior of the island. This site is 6th century Christian. Here is a link: http://www.planetware.com/ireland/clonmacnoise-irl-o-clom.htm Below is the location 21km from Athlone signposted from N62. The Clonmacnoise Tourist Office is on Shannonbridge in Clonmacnoise.

Bart Thompson in Ridgeley, WV USA 07/17/2006

I know I keep thinking of more things...get the Heritage Card. Esp. if you are a senior the price is less and you will get the value in 2-3 stops. Especially if you are driving as we were. I also felt it wasn't a waste of money if we stopped at an attraction and didn't stay and cover the entire thing since it was already part of the pass. If I had to pay 8-9 dollars for each one I may have either skipped it or stayed longer than I was truly interestd. A good value which Steve recommends. The book was with us for the entire trip and used every day.

Patricia Robertson USA 07/14/2006

Take the ferry to see the Cliffs Of Mohr. The view was fantastic although the ride was a little rocky.

Patricia Robertson USA 07/14/2006

Right outside of Dublin a B+B Killyone House. We wanted to stay in Trim but there were no rooms so we found this place. Wonderfully decorated, all antiques, breakfast was excellent and the room faced a porch with bird feeders and flowers. Host and hostess also helpful and pleasant.

Patricia Robertson in Highlands , NJ USA 07/14/2006

The village of Strangford in Northern Island, just north of Downpatrick was an unexpectedly beautiful little place on a lake (we were there for a wedding). It had a good inn and lovely walks.

Tzaddi Smith in san francisco, ca USA 07/06/2006

DunLeary outside of Dublin was a really good base to work from, B&Bs less expensive, DART easy to use. Nearby Dalky has a wonderful restaurant called The Guinea Pig that is a welcome respite from pub food.

Also, outside of Belfast, the town of Armagh, the eccesiastical center of Ireland with two cathedrals - one RC and one Anglican - and its Navan Center (like Tara maybe better) is really worth the stop. This was my wife's favorite town. Charlemont Arms Hotel in middle of downtown was quaint but really nice. Has web site. Tele-028 03752 2028

Keith Wood in Lawrence, KS USA 07/03/2006

Castle Ruins at Kanturk; Devon Inn Restaurant (outside Newcastlewest)

Linna VanNette in Longwood, FL USA 06/27/2006

Remind readers that the Irish also travel extensively on the weekends... Make reservations early especially for Friday & Saturday nights. We spent over an hour and seven stops on a rainy Saturday in Galway looking for a room.

Scott's Pub on George's Street, Dun Laogherie (just down the hill & to the right from Lynden B&B) serves excellent, beautifully presented food at reasonable prices. Their roasted salmon over mashed potatoes was the best meal I had in Ireland... and I ate salmon four different ways in one week..

Another great choice for fish is Donnelly's in Barna, Galway (restaurant, not a pub). Reasonable... 14-25 per person, lovely atmosphere. Don't know how you would get there without a car, but a five minute drive from Salthill. Mostly locals, not tourists, on a Saturday night. My husband loved the smoked haddock mornay, I had the salmon in a fisherman's net... both excellent.

Sherry Cavanaugh in Clearwater, FL USA 06/27/2006

Laugh Gur in Limerick county, a great find

e sabol in kittery, ME USA 06/23/2006

Rick Steve's Guide Books are the BEST. I flew into Shannon with three other women and drove from Bunratty to the Dingle Penninsula and then to Durrus to visit relatives covering over 600 miles. The tip about putting the L on the windshield really helped. Another tip given to me by Sheila at Ashgrove House was to adjust the mirror on the passengers side in and down so that you can see the back of your car and the line on the side of the road (when their is a line on the side of the road.)Using the side mirrors while driving instead of the rear veiw mirror made all the difference. Also having the passengers tell you to look right and go left when coming to a round about. The person on the passenger's side kept me straight, told me when I was driving too close to her side of the road and was the map reader and co-pilot. Always use the bigger roads on the map even though it doesn't look like the shortest distance. Ashgrove Guest House in Bunratty, run by Shelia and Frank Tierney was very accommodating. Shelia didn't have room for us on our first night so she found us a place at Bunratty Heights Guest House run by Patricia. Patricia was able to put us up earlier than the usual check in time which was helpful. Her house was very comfortable and her Irish breakfast was great. On our return to Bunratty we stayed with Sheila and Frank at Ashgrove. They were fun! We found a wonderful Guest House in Durrus, not far from Bantry, called Jo-Al's B&B run by John and Alice Hickey. They were just the BEST. Comfortable beds, nice hot shower and great breakfast. We stayed with them for two nights and did day trips to Mizen Head and Bantry Bay. Also a beautiful area of the country.

Anne Pontuso in Charlottesville, Va USA 06/22/2006

Just south - about a twenty minute drive - of Kenmare is the tiny town of Laurragh. There you will find the "An Sibin" (Tel:06483106) a pub that has trad dances on Friday nights; Authentic Ireland. Also, take time to explore the Beara Peninsula: Healy Pass, Glengarriff, Dursey Island, etc. Just as interesting and beatiful as Ring of Kerry, without the huge crowds. Also the Inchinquin Nature park. It is owned by farmers who still raise sheep there. Beatiful hiking and picknicking area. Just one euro per person and the farmer's wife provides snacks for the trip back to Kenmare. Cross the bridge south out of Kenmare, turn right on R571, and watch for small signs indicating the turn for Inchiquin. You will travel down a narrow gravel road for quite a way before reaching the parking lot. Ask for more specific directions in Kenmare. If you like hiking and exploring, you will love this place.

Bruce Grabowski in Barrington, IL USA 06/16/2006

getting dessert twice a day is delicious at all the cafes and then just grabbing a bowl of soup and brown bread for lunch is enough. otherwise you end up spending way more money at lunch time and still needing a break later in the day to revive yourself.

Hilary Domush in Madison, WI USA 06/14/2006

The Blindgate House, Kinsale Maevce Coakley is the owner and she was absolutely wonderful. This is a perfect place for guests to stay as it has parking and is in walking distance to the town. Maeve designed the house so it is most accomodating for travelers. Please add this to your list as Maeve was so concerned that we did not have reservations ahead for a "banking holiday," that she was on her phone to find places for us. When we contacted her on a Friday afternoon, she offered to make dinner reservations for us so that we would have a place to eat. Maeve is an absolutely terrific hostess: Maeve Coakley Blindgate House Blindgate, Kinsale, Co Cork, Ireland 353-21-477-7858 info@blindgatehouse.com www.blindgatehouse.com

MaryHelen Windell in Blaine, WA USA 06/13/2006

A suprise gem was the town of Howth on the North side of Dublin. Stayed at a very nice B&B, www.dunaoibhinn.com, in an adjacent town, Sutton Park. It faced a local park. 10 minute walk to the DART station, then 20 minutes to Dublin. Good place if you have a car but don't want to take it into Dublin.

No restaurants within walking distance but Howth is just a few minutes by car or a couple stops outbound on the DART at the end of the line. Town is both a working commercial fishing and yachting center with deligthful walks along the breakwaters and the cliffs toward Howth Head. Best dinner value in town is the Bloody Stream just below the DART station. Great pasta at Casa Pasta (Only in Ireland will the menu at an Italian restaurant offer to substitute potato for the pasta - but stick to the pasta). Also, the Abbey, www.abbeytavern.ie, in town has dance and music nights.

Important Tip: Do NOT bring Euro currency travelers checks to Ireland. Since many B&Bs take only cash I thought I should have Euro travelers checks.

Picked up at my AAA office. First, the exchange rate you get is awful with a Euro going for $1.37. Second, NO restaurants, B&Bs, or stores accept travelers checks. You have to bring them to a bank to cash where you get hit with an additional 1% to 2.25% fee. Also, if you end up with left-over checks at the end of your trip, you'll get whacked again if you try to convert them back to $US.

Either stick with credit cards and ATM withdrawls, or bring $US travelers checks to exchange at banks. At least with $US checks you can redeposit unused ones. Pass on any leftover euro cash to friends or family if they travel to Europe. Euro checks can only be used by you on later trips.

Jim Reddington in West Hartford, CT USA 06/12/2006

Be sure the weather will be clear before you pay for a bus trip to the Cliffs of Moher. We drove there on our way to galway and the fog was so thick we could hardly find the car. And all those tour buses...

Ruth Domush in Greenbrae, CA USA 06/08/2006

I have some last minute suggestions for those of you who are fortunate enough to be going to Ireland this year. These suggestions are from my last time there; in January, 2006: And yes, it rains often at this time of the year. RS provides you with a guide better suited for car travel. The fact is much of Ireland can only be properly explored with a car. That doesn't mean you shouldn't go if you won't be renting an auto, but there is much you will miss, or find very difficult to see, without one. Try the Loop Head drive in County Clare; it forms the top part of the mouth of the Shannon Estuarary. Nice view of working farms and a great place to picknick at the point overlooking the Shannon. Go on a Wednesday and stay in Kilbaha, a tiny town with the "Lighthouse Inn"- you can't miss it. On Wednesday nights they have an authentic Trad Session amd Singsong. Simple, untouristy, and a great time. The real Ireland before the Killarneying took place. Plan on more than a day trip to the Aran Islands. Give yourself time to soak in the atmosphere. It is quite amazing when you remove the mad tourist rush that comes with the daytrippers. Start from the south end of the Gap of Dunloe, and take it up towards Dingle. Incredible views, breathtaking driving, and no buses. Kate Kearney's Cottage is a tourist trap, but it makes a nice rest stop and refuelling point. Galway is a great little city, but parking is a problem. Check out Garvey's on the square. Parking in a garage nearby, and perfectly located; you can walk everywhere. Keep in mind, driving in Galway can be difficult. Great walking-around city. But also get out of Galway, and stay in a small town in Connemara, like Roundstone, right on the coast, or Leenane. Drive around the area, visit the Connemara National Park. Great close-up views of the "Twelve Pins." In Roundstone, you can look into the "Seagrove B&B" Right on the coast and just outside town. Remember, your a guest in their country, treat it and them with respect. Slainte.

Bruce Grabowski in Barrington, Il USA 06/05/2006

My husband and I just returned from 11 days in Ireland and Northern Ireland, following Rick's 2006 book all the way (as always). We were in Ireland last September using Rick's 2005 book and couldn't wait to go back. This time we stayed in these B&Bs as listed in Rick's 2006 book: Ferry House in Dun Laoghaire, Berkeley House in Kilkenny, Windermere in Belfast, and Saddler's House in Derry. They were all fine. Pauline at the Ferry House was a delight and we hated to leave her. The Windermere is having some trouble keeping hot water running in their showers in their ensuite doubles--sometimes the hot water runs out. They are working on it. We thoroughly enjoyed Belfast. We weren't sure what to expect, but it turned out to be a charming European city that is ideally suited for tourists who are walking. If you get off the Dublin-Belfast train at Central station, you can get a local train to City Centre for free. They are catering to tourists and the people are extremely happy to have people visiting their city.

Susan Scruggs in Longmont, CO USA 06/03/2006

haven't read the guide book on ireland but have read the comments. I am an american expat in ireland. 1. The bus schedules in dublin tell you what time the route started. Not what time they will show up. 2. People in ireland generally take re-usable bags to the grocery. You don't have to but if you expect bags they are 15 c a piece for plastic or more for re-usable. 3. Don't drive in dublin without the most detailed book style map. I know where things are and I still do not drive without it. 4. Irish give directions based on the assumption that you know the landmarks. The first directions we recieved were, "we are right by where the old Newtown post office used to be". Ask for an intersection near by and use your own detailed map

nathan anderson in waterford, USA 06/02/2006

To really get away from it all, stay just outside Dingle. We just returned from four days on the Dingle peninsula, and with the season just beginning, Dingle town was already quite crowded, and I wasn't prepared for all the ongoing construction of "holiday homes." (One of my daughters compared it to a subdivision in the States.) So if close proximity to the pubs isn't important to you, and if you'll have a car, considering staying outside Dingle. We stayed in Ventry, a Gaelic-speaking village four miles west of Dingle, along the Slea Head route. It was quiet like I haven't "heard" in a long time! Our B&B was Moriarty's Farmhouse (www.dinglevacation.com), which is set off by itself (on land that has been in the host's family for hundreds of years) but is about a 15-minute walk from Paddy O'Shea's pub. The rooms are typical B&B-size (get a family room), and they have beautiful views of Ventry Harbour and cost less than those in Dingle.

Jennifer Herrin in Heidelberg, Germany 06/01/2006

We just got back from a 10 day trip to Ireland. We toured from Shannon along the coast to Dublin then returned inland back to Shannon. What a beautiful country. Your book was very helpful in explaining what we would see at the different cities. I too highly recommend Kinsale, Kilcaw House. It's off R-600 on the Cork to Kinsale Rd, 1 mi.outside town - 353-021-4774155, www.kilcawhouse.com, info@kilcawhouse.com. Hostess: Christina Mitchell is a delight. She went beyond the call of duty for us. She made calls for us inquiring about different requests we had and made us feel so welcome. She bakes her own brown bread which is delicious. Another addition to your book would be the White House Restaurant in Kinsale. Food is good but the Irish entertainment is absolutely hilarious. Another restaurant that was very good was Portofino's in Kinsale. Family owned and taste like real italian food. I highly recommend staying outside of Dublin and commuting in by train(DART). We stayed in Skerries, north of Dublin by the Irish Sea. It's a cute little community with lots of good restaurants by the water. The only way to do some of Dublin is the Dublin Tour where you can get on and off to see the famous sights. Temple Bar Pub was great fun and Gallaghers for Corned Beef and Cabbage was utterly delicious. New Market on Fergus outside of Shannon is a really nice countryside to stay at a B&B. Thanks, Steve for such an informative book. Well worth the money.

Rachel in Everett, WA USA 05/31/2006

1. No question the book more than paid for itself! Excellent ...So glad that we got the heritage card. Will always travel with your books from now on!

Oldchurch House, Killowen, Kenmare,Co. Kerry 064-42054 www.kenmare.com/oldchurch the backyard is on the golfcourse and you can walk to Kenmare on a sidewalk........very clean...

Geraldine Nepszy in Windsor, ON CANADA 05/31/2006

Clifden was a lovely town in Connemara and we stayed at a wonderful B&B there - the Faul House. One of our favorites of the entire trip.

Rosalie & Roger in Albany, NY USA 05/29/2006

Go to the Blasket Islands if you can. It's worth the expensive ferry trip. It is so pristine, especially the beach. We saw the heads of baby seals poking out of the surf. It was lovely. Also, Internet access is free at the library in Dingle, on Green Street; stop and have tea at the thatched-roof cottage at the entrance to Killarney National Park, across from the Cathedral. It's a gracious stop as you start your walk. Try the berry crumble and the strawberry roll!

Laurie Granieri in Milltown, NJ USA 05/24/2006

I am preparing for my Irish journey by watching all the Irish films and television shows I can get my hands on. Please consider 2 new excellent films for next year's list: "Omagh" - story of the 1997 bombing in Omagh town, Northern Ireland and a family's struggle to find justice. On a much lighter note: "The Boys and Girl from County Clare" - a very fun, trad-filled film about a very Irish musical competition in the 1960's. If any of you have the opportunity to watch these, please do!

Also, there are some Irish television shows available on DVD and well worth the rental: "Ballykissangel" - small town "dramedy" set in Avoca, Co. Wicklow circa mid-90's, "Father Ted" - hilarious sitcom of 3 misfit priests on fictional "Craggy Island" off the coast of Galway (really filmed in Dublin) circa late 90's, and "The Irish R.M." - an 80's television show about a British officer transplanted on the west coast of Ireland at the turn of the century, very heartwarming and fun.

Melissa Weise in Troy, MI USA 05/22/2006

Add a section on Baltimore. We went to Fiddle Fair in May and it was really wonderful: traditional fiddle music from Ireland, Scotland, Canada, Denmark, America, etc. www.fiddlefair.com Talk with Declan McCarthy. Also, we ate at Rolf's in Baltimore and it was superb. We also took the ferry out to the little island just off Baltimore and hiked around. It was lovely!

Mary Burdette in Hammondsport, NY USA 05/22/2006

We just returned from a 3 week tour of Ireland. We stayed 2 nights in Dunmore East at the "Rainbows End" B&B run by Mary Nagle. She is charming & went out of her way to give us some very good info for the rest of our trip. She is a fountain of info on the Doolin area having been raised there. She also was gracious enough to do our laundry. We stayed at her sister-in-law's B&B in Doolin, the "Rockford House" & Caroline was just as helpful & gracious. Both are extremely well run & VERY clean. These should both be included in your book.

Bob & Moe CA USA 05/21/2006

The guidebooks are probably aimed at high-season. We went first two weeks of May, and so we have this feedback:

1) Ring of Kerry was empty!!! We saw only 1 bus. Absolutely no traffic (for a lot of stretches, it was just us on the road). We were able to comfortably pull over at every pullout, and take as many pictures as possible. No rush/traffic/pressure at all. Awesome!

2) Driving in Ireland is pretty easy. However, do not drive in downtown Dublin. I had set up to return my rental car in downtown... huge mistake. It took us an hour to find our way to the return point in morning rush hour traffic. Here's what Dublin offers: a) tight, tight roads b) a lot of one-way traffic c) worst of all, the street signs that tell you what road you are on are put on the sides of buildings. The signs are hard to find (they don't stand out), and not all street intersections have street signs. d) The street names change pretty much every block.

Driving in Dublin is purely hair-raising. I think that entire area is meant for locals who already know where they are going, and how to get there. The signs may be more ceremonial...

Second, we thought we'd cheese out and not buy a downtown Dublin street map, so we were going with a map that only showed major streets. That just didn't work, so if you will drive downtown dublin, get that detailed street map.

B&B owners who don't live in Dublin were also scared by downtown Dublin traffic, so it wasn't just us...

3) You cannot walk to Kilmainman Gaol from downtown Dublin. We thought we could do it, wisely took a cab, and sighed relief when we saw how long of a walk it would have been. I don't think the guidebook is clear on how far the jail is.

4) Hore Abbey at the base of the rock of Cashel is awesome. No tourists, wicked old ruins... amazing. It's untouched history.

Arjun Khare in Cary, NC USA 05/17/2006

Please remind us to take a wash cloth. We took a half day tour bus to Malahide Castle, which was a very nice trip. When we went to Dun Laoghaire on a rainy day we came across a big shopping center. Things were cheaper outside of Dublin. A few Burger Kings are closed on Sunday except in the areas where tourists traps are, such as Grafton Street. Bring your own shopping bag when you go to the grocery store otherwise you will be charged for a grocery bag. We stayed in Dublin for a week and when we went to the grocery store to buy water we were charged for needing a shopping bag. All of the buses in Dublin are never on time. Aircoach doesn't come on time either because it has so many stops to make and took us about an hour going back to the airport. When flying from Dublin back to the U.S., don't go through the Newark airport, it took us almost 24 hours to get back to Oregon.

The Sellers in Newberg, OR USA 05/12/2006

Atlantic Heights B&B; 2 Cashelmara; Knockanacarra Cross, Salthill, Galway, Ireland 4km from City Center Galway run by Robbie and Madeline Mitchell Tel 091-529466 www.galway.net/pages/atlantic-heights email: atlanticheights@galway.iol.ie

Madeline was very sweet and caring. She not only made sure we were comfortable but she went out of her way to make our stay in Galway an enjoyable one, including pushing us out the door when we were running late for a tour bus. Our room over looked the bay and was a great sight in the morning. It also had the best shower we ever had in Europe. Madeline also arranged for us to take a tour and made sure the bus picked us up across the street from her B&B so we would not have to drive the 4kms to Galway. In addition to all her other services, Robbey, her husband is a taxi driver who was more than willing to drop us off where we needed to go at our leisure and also gave us a guided tour in the process. She has been rated by other services and my husband and I believe this wonderful B&B would be a great addition to your recommendations.

Anna Drake in Berlin, NJ USA 04/26/2006

You recommended Mary Gibbon's Tour covering the Hill of Tara and Newgrange--that is a definite must!! Such a charming and knowledgable guide--one of the best parts of the trip.

Cathryn Alpaugh in Lincoln, NE USA 04/18/2006

Our tour of the Wicklow Mountains with Day Tours Unplugged (www.daytoursunplugged.ie).

Tina Cline in Dallas, Tx USA 04/10/2006

We just got back from 4 days on the Dingle Penninsula and it was amazing. We stayed in self-catering lodging called Dingle Harbor Cottages. As a group of 6, it was great to be able to hang out together, cook, do some laundry. We love to hike, so there were some muddy, wet clothes at the end of the day! Dingle is a wonderful, warm and friendly town. We arranged for a 3-hour archaeological tour from Tim Collins -- took us around the penninsula to see many of the beehive huts, gallurus oratory, and other early christian and/or pagan sites. He books through the Kirrary B&B in Dingle. Great pubs (Small Bridge) and music every night. Food was fantastic -- Out of the Blue for seafood especially. We took a hike around Anascaul Lake one day. A shop called The Mountain Man in Dingle schedules daily walks that you can sign up for. Saw Fungi the dolphin in Dingle Bay -- yes, touristy, but a blast. You must check out artist Louis Mulcahy's pottery where you can actually take a turn at the potter's wheel. His shop is outside of town, but his wife, Lisbeth, is a weaver with a shop in Dingle. Try using aa.roadwatch.ie for directions. It was extremely accurate and gives step-by-step info -- every turn at every roundabout is clearly outlined. Just plug in point A and point B. It will tell you how to get there.

Daphne in Evanston, IL USA 04/09/2006

Consider adding Fitzer's restaurant to the Dublin section. A bit of a splurge but food is superb!

Amy Apine in Eau Claire, WI USA 04/05/2006

One of our favorite destinations was the site of an old fort at Tallyhogue. It was both a magical place and a must for anyone named O'Neill (although my husband may never let me forget that his family has royal bloodlines!) It was the site where the O'Neill clan, which ruled Ireland for over 400 years, inaugurated their king. It is also the site of the O'Hagan burial ground. It is a landmark with interesting historical information, there is no charge, it has a great view and is a wonderful spot for a picnic.

It is located just off the road, to the north of the village and it is marked with a sign. From Cookstown head south on A29 and follow the signs to Tallyhogue and Stewartstown. You will see the sign directing you to the fort on the east side of the road just before you enter Tallyhogue.

I will include the information I received about this place for your information. I don't have the source -just a couple of pages out of a book - but it does not conflict with the information on the markers at the site.

"Tullaghoge, the ancient O'Neill inauguration site, is situated between Cookstown and Steartstown in County Tyrone. There has been no O'Neill inauguration there since that of Hugh, "The Great", O'Neill late in the 16th century. The site consists of the O'Hagan rath (which is at present overgrown with trees), the O'Hagan burial ground, and the O'Neill inauguration site. This site is situated half way down the hill from the rath. It consists of a very peculiar and impressive stone which is a part of the hill itself. This is where the three sandstone slabs were placed around the stone to represent a chair. Lord Mounjoy had these slabs destroyed in 1602 due to his impression that they were an important part of the site. In all references to this site there is no mention of a "chair" but of a stone and since this was also called the "Leac na Ri", we can be certain that the surviving "stone" at Tullaghoge is that stone.

The "O'Neill" was inaugurated with traditional ceremony. The chieftain and his vassels would gather in a local church and then parade along a pathway leading up to and through the O'Hagan rath. The "O'Neill would sit on the stone which had been made to resemble a chair. O'Cahan and O'Hagan played the most important roles in the ceremony. One threw the golden or brass shoe over the O'Neill's head and another placed the rod, a symbol of authority in his hand. It is thought that the O'Neill then stood up and turned "thro\ice forward and backward", observing his territory as he did so. However, this is impossible to do standing on the present stone, maily because of its situation on the slope of a hill. It is still exactly where one would expect it to be according to the Bartlett map of 1602 though.

In the local Church of Ireland church, there is a small section of one of the sandstone slabs that surrounded the "O'Neill" stone. It is part of the arch over the doorway into the church which is dated "AD 1735". There is also an interesting min\iature O'Neill "chair" in the church itself. A fully sized reconstruction of teh "chair" is now in the Benburb Heritage centre.

There was also another O'Neill chair at Castlereagh, an area of farmland near Belfast. This chari was taken from its site to Belfast before being transfered to Sligo. There it was cared for by Mr. J. Walker. A Mr. S, Millagan arranged, in or around 1898, to have it taken to the Ulster Museum in Belfast where it is now preserved and protected. It had been hoped that this chair would have been used in the "O'Neill of Clann Aodha Buidhe" ceremoney in 1982 but permission was withheld by the Trustees of the Museum."

Suzanne O'Neill in Elizabeth, CO USA 04/01/2006

The Carrigann Hotel in Lisdoonvarna is great. Great location, wonderful owners, Mary and Gerald Howard, and reasonably priced (98 Euros including sumptuous breakfast for two). Tel. 065-7074036, Fax 065-7074567, email carrigannhotel@eircom.net and web site www.gateway-to-the-burren.com. If you have a yen for Italian food while in Galway you can't miss at Trattoria Magnetti, 12 Quay St., Galway, Tel. 091-563910, www.magnettifoods.com, pasta@magnettifoods.com. Mara Mancini, chef extraordinaire harks from Ancona and her mussels are to die for.

Mary Mayo in Peaks Island, ME USA 03/26/2006

TIP: While many people may have read about the VAT tax and that all taxes should be included in marked prices on items, one thing was never made quite clear. When making a purchase you must ASK for a tax voucher. Most places won't simply offer one and a receipt is not enough to reclaim the tax. It is far simpler than it appears and should take about 15 min.

Many destinations that are buildings require a guided tour and typically take 50 min.

Some small towns close early so you may have to find food before 6:00PM. There is usually something open but you may need to ask if you are travelling to a small town.

We travelled in the off-season (2 weeks before St. Patricks Day) It was VERY easy to get around because there were limited visitors, but beware many of the recommended B&B's and restaurants were not yet open for the season, especially in Dingle. They did not open for guests until after St. Patricks Day. Discoveries: Cill Bhreac House - Milltown, Dingle Co. Kerry Tel 066-9151385 cbhreac@iol.ie www.iol.ie/~cbhreac Prop: Angela McCarthy This B&B was the best on our trip by far. It sits next door to a Rick Steve's recommended B&B. The balcany veiw of Dingle is unbelievable, rooms are clean and confortable, the food or should I say menu was the best of any B&B at which we stayed (especially after you consider eating nearly the same traditional Irish Breakfast the rest of the week it was a wonderful change. Angela could not have been more gracious or pleasant. Even though the B&B did not have a pay phone she let me use her personal phone to call back to the US to check on my mother in the hospital. We WILL stay here again. Thanks, Cill Bhreac House!

Erick in Elkhart, IN USA 03/16/2006

If you care to splurge while in Kilkenny, Ireland, take a hard look at the Hibernian Hotel. We received a fantastic rate that included a full Irish breakfast and one dinner when were were just there in late February, early March. This is a modern hotel with lifts, a full restaurant, a regular pub/bar, and a late night bar. Everyone was so friendly, especially one of the bartenders, and they made us feel very welcome. The room was definitely top-notch with a large bathtub with jacuzzi jets that felt great on feet that had been walking for days! We even had disposable slippers provided and the location is great as it is only a block and half from the Kilkenny Castle.

Drake in Seattle, WA USA 03/12/2006

Craigs Park B&B in Bushmills Northern Ireland was wonderful. I would recommend it to your readers. It was clean, had extremely comfortable beds and was a beautiful farmm house about 2 miles from Bushmills Village (and distillery!). Also great breakfast and very hospitable and helpful hosts. Here is the website: http://www.craigpark.co.uk/testimonials.htm

JLB in Houston, TX USA 03/07/2006

I just returned from a trip to Dublin with my husband and 2 other couples. We all agree that the highlight of our trip was the tour to the Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough with Day Tours Unplugged. We booked the tour on-line before going to Ireland at http://www.daytoursunplugged.ie The tour guide even agreed to pick the 6 of us up from our hotel, which we really appreciated. The tour bus was very comfortable and was small enough to drive on some of the narrow roads in the mountains. Our tour guide, Dave, was excellent! He was very funny and extremely knowledgeable about the history of all of the sites we saw on the tour. It was raining during our tour, but we still enjoyed getting off of the bus several times to get a chance to walk around and take photos of the scenic views. They even provided large umbrellas for everyone on the tour to borrow to help keep us dry. We had many laughs, learned a great deal about the history of this part of Ireland and enjoyed some traditional Guiness Stew at the pub for lunch. Our photos are amazing and we would have truly missed out on a great experience if we hadn’t taken this tour. Great value, great experience and great memories of Ireland.

Jen Willis in St. Louis, MO USA 02/15/2006

For the Skelligs (my favorite trip since moving to Ireland from NYC), be sure to take anti-nausea medication. I have never been motion sice before and got sick on the way to the rocks with 3 others on the boat!

Cari in Dublin, Ireland 02/09/2006

Gruel is the best budget restaurant in Dublin - hands down. It should make it into the book immediately.

Matt in Somerville, MA USA 01/29/2006

If you are leaving Ireland from Shannon Airport, Park House B&B in Bunratty is a great place to spend your last night. Mairead is an excellent hostess and serves a great breakfast in a beautiful updated home. Park House is a 10 minute ride to the airport. Bunratty Castle and Durty Nelly's music pub and restaurant(great place for the last night dinner) are a 10 minute walk. I have stayed here five times and highly recommend it. It fills up fast so get in touch early. If she is booked the B&B next door, Dunaree, is also very good.

Brian in Pompano Beach, FL USA 01/01/2006