Ireland 2012 Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
Recommended addition. Mills Inn, Ballyvourney (Near Macroom):026 45237.www.millsinn.ie Quiet country inn, gift shops. Pretty setting with ruins on site and trout stream across N22. Inn is suitably old, well maintained. Rooms are clean, quiet, everything functions, no surprises. Very good food; nice dining atmosphere; comfortable, welcoming bar for travelers and locals. $$ room price range.
Joe & Kathleen Kelly in Jasper, GA USA 01/27/2012
Tony Kirby who leads a tour of the Burren, near Doolin in County Kerry was the best find. We had a horrible day for the tour - late in the season, it was blustery - rain with wind. His tour is not to be missed: his tour includes poetry, botany, geology and glacial science. The Burren is 10 X 10 mile plateau of limestone - a fascinating tour by an expert who has published two books on the Burren. Kirby is charming and knowledgeable and helpful. I had a fall, and he personaly helped helped me complete the tour.
ann fessler in gig harbor, wa, WA USA 12/21/2011
Rick had it right the whole way! I've been to Ireland 3x before this trip and used the guidebook for the first time. Everything suggested to see and to skip was dead on. Best info & tips from any guidebook I've ever used and I've lived in Europe for 20 years!
Erica Hansen in Alamo, CA USA 12/05/2011
Your 'Ireland 2011' was our companion before, during and after my daughter and I spent 10 days touring Ireland. A very great help!!!
Elaine Roppo in Livermore, CA 94551-2956, CA USA 11/20/2011
All were great!
Maureen in Tempe, AZ USA 10/22/2011
Spa Seafoods in Spa (3-5km west of Tralee) was probably the best food (certainly top 3) during our trip. Recommended by locals we encountered on the Dingle Loop, it exceeded expectations. Linda was a delightfull hostess and waitress and the food was reasonable and amazing! Also O'Looneys in Lahinch was great food and the view of the surfers, the horses running on the beach, was a trip highlight. Sadly because of the offseason timing of our trip, it wasn't open when we went back for lunch during the midweek.
William Gamble in Culver City, CA USA 10/11/2011
We had planned to take the Don & Barry's walking tour in Kinsale per your recommendation (you say "accept no substitutes") but due to the guide's doctor's orders, the first morning tour was cancelled and the only other tour wasn't until 11:30. Instead we went on Dermot Ryan's walking tour. As a trained historian, he was quite knowledgeable, and also told humorous stories. We highly recommend him!
Donna Murphy in Fairfax, VA USA 10/10/2011
Fabulous hike up Mt. Brandon on the Dingle Peninsula
Peter in Vancouver, Canada 10/06/2011
Four walking tours were fantastic. The best two were: Don & Barry's Kinsale Historic Stroll, and Lorcan Collins' amazing and funny 1916 Rebellion Walks starting at the International Bar in Dublin.
John H. Lifland MD in Bridgewater, NJ USA 10/04/2011
Cliff of Moher free parking after 6pm and you have the place to yourself. TI tomb at Hightower in Valley of boyne, hard to find have to get key from church down the road but you have a 5000 year old tomb al to yourself
martha Aguiar in CAMPTON, NH USA 10/03/2011
We followed your book very closely and we had a fabulous trip. All the places we stayed were great and I think all the places we stayed were in your book except for the Ramada in Portrush. It was nice but not friendly like the B & B's we stayed at.
Jill Sletten in Saint Paul, MN USA 09/27/2011
Tony Kirby's Heart of Burren walks should be included in your guidebook. Tony doesn't just provide an excellent, information-packed, guided tour of the Burren, he intersperses the most wonderful and poignant poetry along the way. It wasn't just a tour, it was a complete emotional experience.
Patti Brassard in Cape Elizabeth, ME USA 09/22/2011
Great fresh seafood-oysters,mussels, lobster in southwest
Teresa Ribadeneyra in Chatham, NY USA 09/21/2011
My husband and I discovered a wonderful and informative guided walk led by Tony Kirby while visiting the Burren in County Clare. Tony led a small group telling us about the geology, unique wildflowers, wildlife, human history and how they have intertwined over time. He was very cheery and responsive to everyone's questions and interests and we learned so much more than we would have on our own. He even recited a few verses of relevant Irish poetry along the way!
Mary Ann in Bellaire, TX USA 08/24/2011
Please check out: Scotch house bistro-Bushmills The Rabbit Room-Bangor The Pantry and Corkscrew-Westport
tami dairiki in scottsdale, az USA 08/15/2011
Tony Kirby's Burren Walk is worth mentioning in your book! We found out about him at our B&B in Doolin, made easy phone call and met him and the group close by. Tony was gracious, (remembered everyone's names), fully knowledgeable about the Burren from geological standpoint, flowers and folliage, political movement with the farmers and intertwining the talks with Irish poetry and history. We went with our 2 children, the walk was easy, the kids kept entertained and interested!
Mary Kyle in San Rafael, CA USA 08/14/2011
We loved your guidebook but want to make a suggestion for an addition. Some relatives we have in County Clare hired us a hiking guide, Tony Kirby, for a day hike in the burren. Tony is part historian, part botanist, part poet, part philosopher and a wonderful kind spirit. He made our hike over Mullag Moore mountain 10 times better than it would have been if we had just made the hike ourselves. I have never hired guides for hikes before but will certainly consider doing so in the future and without a doubt if I ever hike in the burren again I will definitely hire Tony. This hike was one of the most memorable days of our 3 weeks in Ireland.
Scott Hoversten in Woodbury, MN USA 08/13/2011
As part of our 3-week trip through Ireland, my husband and I learned to fly hawks at the Irish School of Falconry at Ashford Castle. The session was private and an hour long and worth every penny we spent on it. We each got our own hawk, and learned to send them off and then call them back. Walking around the castle grounds with an heiress hawk on the arm was the best part of our trip, and we highly, highly recommend it.
Eilis O'Neal in Tulsa, OK USA 08/05/2011
Aran Island Tours - Take the early morning ferry and grab one of the waiting horse-drawn carriages for a 3 1/2 to 4 hour private tour of the island @ 15 Euros each. Our driver was very friendly and we were able to stop wherever we wanted on the route for pictures. The bus tours only lasts 2 hours so they can get back to pick up passengers arriving on the afternoon ferry and costs 10 Euros each.
Kildare - Harte's Bar & Grill This place is really an excellent restaurant in the middle of town. Try the "Slow Roasted Irish Pork Belly with Colcannon Mash and Stewed Bramley Apple and Braised Red Cabbage". It is an amazing dish.
Brian Furlong in Chicago, IL USA 08/04/2011
We would like to suggest adding this wonderful guided walk to your 2012 book for Ireland. We had the pleasure of a guided walk with Tony Kirby in "The Burren" of County Clare, Ireland this past June. What a great experience. Well worth the traveler's time to stop in at the Burren Center in Kilfenora and sign up for 2 hours of interesting info on the natural and human history of this fascinating geological area. Tony is passionate about the future of The Burren and is a wealth of information. He caps it all off with a very nice surprise at the end of the walk. Check out 'Heart of Burren Walks' on his website.
Robbin and Rob Luther in Richmond, RI USA 08/03/2011
Ireland Tips From Our 8 Day Trip
Driving: Do it! I found that if I got behind a car going in my direction and followed it I was okay. Against Rick's advice we decided to drive in Dublin, albeit on a Sunday when traffic was light. We used a GPS unit to get from the airport to Trinity College, but found it to be more of an annoyance and never used it again the whole trip. Maps and highway signs worked fine for us. (Besides, who wouldn't want to get lost in Ireland?) The Dawson Car Park across the street from the National Museum on Kildare Street was only €10 for the whole day, and within easy walking distance to just about everywhere in the town center. Most of the roads were in excellent condition but narrower than Americans are used to. Just take it slow, you are on holiday! Also, I did get an automatic.
Phones: I wanted to use my phone the second I got off the plane, and not waste time getting a sim card, so I got the AT&T World Traveler plan for my iPhone for $5.99 a month plus $0.99 per minute; Global messaging for $10; and 50 mb data plan for $25. We used the phone sparingly, but whenever we needed to with no problems. The data plan was a big waste of money as wi-fi was at every place we stayed (just be sure to turn international roaming off on your iPhone.) Skype was great to use to call friends and family back in the States.
Credit/ATM Cards: I was freaking out about the chip-and-pin thing, but had no problem anywhere with American cards. We did have problems with dynamic currency conversion. Some merchants offer the service without asking (Dan Dooley), so the very first time and every time you use your card tell them no currency conversion! Also, my credit union ATM card had no transaction fees while my bank did. In general, Ireland was less expensive than I thought it would be.
We stayed the first night in Enniskerry at Brook Cottage that Rick recommends and had a lovely stay.
The Military Road to Glendalough was wonderful, as was Glendalough.
Rock of Cashel: Go! From all the guide books we read, I never would have guessed the size of the town of Cashel. There is more than the Rock. Granny's Kitchen that Rick mentions was good for a quick lunch. Save €2 by parking on the city street versus the gated parking lot at the foot of the hill.
The drive from Cashel to Dingle was a bit too long for me in one day. Stopping in Killarney would have been just about right, or going through Limerick, maybe.
Dingle: Dingle was everything and more that we hoped it would be. And if a place to stay can enhance your visit, then that place is the Pax Guest House. The best meal we had the whole trip was at Out of the Blue in Dingle. Don't expect a romantic meal, though, it's all about the food. We enjoyed the weekly "folk concert" at St. James Church, but the musicians are the same you can see in the pubs for the price of a Guinness. I never thought I would ever take the Fungie tour, but I wanted a day without driving, and it was raining so we decided to give it a go and enjoyed every minute of it. The kids on their school field trip on the boat actually added to the fun. Fungie really is a fun guy. We were wet and chilled after we got off the boat but a visit to the Chowder House fixed that.
Doolin: Dingle has great pubs, but O'Connor's in Doolin, I thought, was the best. Great music, and the food was not bad, either. The Cliffs of Moher tour was fun, but don't eat beforehand, or else grab a barf bag.
The Burren: A unique place worth visiting. We did not take the guided hike with Tony Kirby. Next time we will. Also regret not stopping at the Perfumery.
Ennis: An unexpected treat, except for the Old Ground Hotel, especially on a weekend night when wedding receptions are held. Also, overpriced.
I seem to have gotten carried away with tips. My apologies.
Gregory in Las Vegas, NV USA 07/30/2011
May we add our comments to others regarding Heart of the Burren Walks run by Tony Kirby. Besides the standard walks, Tony also does customized walks to suit specific interests. This spring we spent a half day with Tony as he guided us through the Burren National Park. It was the Burren as we had never experienced it before - and we have been coming for several years. As we hiked the rocky hills, blooming with wild flowers, we wondered upon a large herd of feral goats, something you won't see driving in a car. At the highest hilltop we ate the packed lunch Tony brought as we viewed Galway Bay, the Aran Islands, and farmland spread out below. Later, Tony guided us to an ancient hermitage from early Christian times. It was in a secluded glade, completely hidden unless you knew where to look. It was magical. During our time with Tony he told stories of the old days and of today and how good ecological farming practices are preserving the Burren for new generations. When we return to Ireland next year, Heart of the Burren Walks will be #1 of our things to do.
Kathleen Jones in Apple Valley, MN USA 07/29/2011
We took a walking tour of the Burren with Tony Kirby. His talk was a fascinating description of natural and human history - all the way up to the present. He really brought it to life. It was my teenage son's favorite part of our visit to Ireland.
Our 2nd best day was when we rented bikes (from Mary across from the TI) in Killarney and biked the lovely bike trails through the Killarney National Park. Easy bike riding, great scenery, delightful day. The tour of nearby Ross Castle was far more interesting than Muckross House - gave a great picture into life at that time.
Mary Ann Stone in Cardiff, CA USA 07/19/2011
We used Rick's book through out Ireland and were not disappointed. While planning our trip, I asked 2 of my good friends for recommendations for B and B's that they had stayed in when visiting Ireland and neither could remember one that stood out! Nearly every B and B that we stayed at, which was recommended by Rick or another traveler from Helpline/Graffti, was outstanding and memorable! Also, neither could remember having a great meal in Ireland and we thought the food was wonderful, again recommendations from the above. I want to thank Rick for his book, having this web site and the people who take the time to share information about B and B's, restaurants, favorite places and so on. I believe we had a dream vacation because of those suggestions. Thank you!!! Barbara
Barbara in Indianapolis, IN USA 07/14/2011
Clifden and Sligo areas. I recommend J. Coneeley's Pub in Clifden for music. Small city center, half dozen pubs. Took a great morning Spiritual Walk in the Burren with Tony Kirby http://heartofburrenwalks.com/ . He's very knowledgeable about ecological issues as well as history. A great guide to the Burren!
David Chaika in Chapel Hill, NC USA 07/07/2011
The hospitality that we received from Angela McCarthy at Cill Bhreac House in Dingle was exceptional. Angela exemplifies all that is good about the Irish people.
Nathan Scott in Santa, CA USA 07/06/2011
Clonmara B&B, Dingle. It's on the other side of the bay by the bridge where the Dingle loop begins. The view is wonderful. The room was very quiet and comfortable.
If you want to beat the crowd at the Rock of Cashel, do not take the scenic route from Kilkenny. It took me 2 hours to get to Cashel. Take the road at the bottom of the driveway to Pinecrest instead, turn right at the corner, go about 15 miles to the motorway.
For those who are interested in stone age monuments, try Loughcrew. It's near Oldcastle, about 25 miles Northwest from Trim in the Boyne Valley. The structure is identical to Newgrange, but smaller. It has many, many interesting and intricate stone carving. It is not as touristy at Newgrange or Knowth. You can spend as long as you like inside the tomb and take as many pictures you want. There is a catch: you need to to climb a steep hill to get there. But the view from the top is breathtaking.
The owner of White Lodge in Trim was very accommodating. I objected to the first room he offered me because it was facing a major street. The traffic noise was so bad I knew I would not be able to sleep a wink, so he put me up in the self catering apartment instead. I had the entire side of the duplex to myself at no extra charge.
Bonane Heritage Park south of Kenmare on the way to Glengariff. There is a stone age settlement, several standing stones and a stone circle.
After watching a video at Molly Gullivan's near Kenmare, I asked the owner where to find the stone structure that represents Orion that was featured in the vvideo, he drew me a map. It is on private land so I had to go into a cemetery and climb a stone wall. What a find. I still get goosebumps thinking about it. This stone structure is known only among the locals. So talk to them. You'll discover something so special you'll never forget.
Pitim in Chicago, Il USA 07/04/2011
I would recommend Crackpots in Kinsale. The food was the best I had on my whole trip. Great atmosphere, wonderful service, and reasonable prices.
Sharon in Indianapolis, IN USA 07/03/2011
For a unique experience, contact Tony Kirby's Heart of Burren Walks. Not only will you learn about an extraordinary geological and botanical area, but you'll enjoy Tony's delightful charm and experience the warmth of the Irish culture.
Danny in Lafayette, CA USA 07/02/2011
I would recommend Heart of Burren Walking Tours with Tony Kirby (www.heartofburrenwalks.com). We took this tour as a group, and he was incredibly knowledgeable and funny. He'd be a great addition to your book!
Kristen in Granzow, IA USA 07/02/2011
My wife and I were in Ireland in 2006, and on one of our driving days we traveled from the Cliffs of Moher to Galway. In so doing we passed through the Burren region. We marveled at the "out of this world" landscape and even pulled the car over a few times to get out and walk around. We read what little there was in our guidebook about the area, and we checked the Burren off our "done" list. We were so wrong to have thought that we'd seen and learned enough.
Just a few months ago -- Feb '11 -- I was lucky enough to be back in Ireland, but this time I was with one of our college age sons. Again I rented a car, but before departing the States, I googled the Burren and saw that there were walking tours of the region. Based on some wonderful recommendations, I booked a tour in advance with Tony Kirby. The three+ hours with him were, without a doubt, one of the highlights of our 7 day trip. What an experience and an education to learn about geology, botany, farming, history, ancient tribes, burial mounds, abandoned potato fields, flora and fauna, politics, and conservation efforts. We covered a few miles, but learned so much more at the same time. My guidebook from back in '06 mentioned that the Burren is mostly limestone, but it was Tony who informed us that the limestone deposits beneath our boots were first formed at the equator! The shifting of the earth's plates millions of years ago brought the Burren to Ireland. His tour was fact-filled, informal, and yet so good for our overall sense of the history of Ireland. I cannot stress enough how much we learned and absorbed from our time with him. If we had not visited the Cliffs of Moher the day before, I would have hired him to take us on one of his walking tours along cliffs. I know there would have been all the extras ( politics, history, flora, fauna, etc) added in. Tony Kirby gets my highest recommendation.
Contact Info:
Tony Kirby Heart of Burren Walks Killinaboy, Co. Clare, Ireland ph. +353 (0)65 682 7707 mob. +353 (0)87 292 5487 www.heartofburrenwalks.com We are on Facebook now! Become a Fan.
Dennis Manniion in Cheshire, CT USA 07/01/2011
Yes, the Leprechaun Museum was really good! I heard it about it on the flight into Dublin and I was glad we managed to find it (kind of by chance) because it was such a cool little place! It's a private tour of the museum and they tell some great leprechaun stories. More information here: http://www.leprechaunmuseum.ie/
Elton in Seattle, WA USA 07/01/2011
Avoid Portrush on a Saturday, parking is an absolute nightmare. We circled the town for half an hour and when we parked in a large free parking lot away from the hotel we asked the receptionist when the parking would get better. Her response: Sunday.
Lisa Moyer in Pine Grove, PA USA 06/30/2011
There were some fantastic B&B places not listed in the book.
Shealane Country House on Valencia Island across the bridge from Portmagee. She can also arrange trips to the Skelligs. The place was referred to us by Monica from your guidebook as her place was full.
Rosewood B&B in Slieverue, Waterford. It is across the bridge from the waterfront and down about 2 K. Catherine and Michael were excellent hosts! Michael is even a retired master cutter from Waterford Crystal Factory.
Mountain Dew in Killarney was excellent too. It was on the road to Ross Castle/National Park about 1/4 k from the road leading from Killarney to Muckross House.
Kathy in San Antonio, TX USA 06/24/2011
I paid an extra 4 Euro to take the Guided Bell Tower tour at the Christ Church Cathedral. An awesome experience with a terrific guide and at the end we actually got to ring some of the bells in the bell tower. More than worth the money!
Jennifer Rock in Melbourne, FL USA 06/13/2011
My wife and I just completed 2 weeks travel in Ireland using your Ireland 2011 Book. We have used a number of others for other countries. A suggestion: We found that B&B's in the Dublin area a scarce and usually full. We discovered a wonderful B&B that might be of interest for your Ireland book update: The name of the B&B is Lissadell Guest House, 212, Glenageary Rd Upper, Dun Laoguaire. The owner is Charmaine Sweeney and can be contacted at Charmainesweeney@hotmail.com. A recent complete renovation makes this a wonderful destination while staying in Dublin. It is 10 mins. walk from the DART, close to national road and motorway, 15 min. walk to Dublin beachfront. The residence is pristine, well done, comfortable, carpeted stairs, clean, new bathrooms and showers. Charmaine is wonderful, accommodating, great cook, very conversant, and has great rates with large breakfast menu (6 or 7 choices!) I have pictures of the B&B inside and out should you desire to see.
Jon Lesch in Portland, OR USA 06/10/2011
My wife and I just completed 2 weeks travel in Ireland using your Ireland 2011 Book. We have used a number of others for other countries. A suggestion: We found that B&B's in the Dublin area a scarce and usually full. We discovered a wonderful B&B that might be of interest for your Ireland book update: The name of the B&B is Lissadell Guest House, 212, Glenageary Rd Upper, Dun Laoguaire. The owner is Charmaine Sweeney and can be contacted at Charmainesweeney@hotmail.com. A recent complete renovation makes this a wonderful destination while staying in Dublin. It is 10 mins. walk from the DART, close to national road and motorway, 15 min. walk to Dublin beachfront. The residence is pristine, well done, comfortable, carpeted stairs, clean, new bathrooms and showers. Charmaine is wonderful, accommodating, great cook, very conversant, and has great rates with large breakfast menu (6 or 7 choices!) I have pictures of the B&B inside and out should you desire to see.
Jon Lesch in Portland, OR USA 06/10/2011
I would love to see more information on self-catering. We stayed at "Your home from Home" in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 for 140 euros/night-a 2 Bedroom, 2 bath with full kitchen, living room, wifi (slight fee). With the cost of meals in Dublin, it was a huge saving to eat breakfast, take lunch and some evenings, get a roasted chicken from Tesco. The location was great...right near the DART and across from Aviva stadium. yourhomefromhome.com.
eileendaniel in rochester, ny USA 06/01/2011
Cill Bhreac House B&B, Dingle - one of the best on our trip. e65/double, great views of the harbor, next door to Milestone House. Proprietor Angela McCarthy exemplifies the best of Irish B&B hosts. Our stay was 16-18 May 2011.
Paul Porwoll in Johns Island, SC USA 05/26/2011
Rick, please look into benefits provided by the Inishowen Peninsula, County Donegal as an alternate to accomodations provided in Derry and Portrush. We returned to the U.S. on May 19 after two weeks visiting the Irish Republic and Northern Ireland. The highlight of our trip was the three nights and four days staying at The Washington House B&B in Ballyratten, Redcastle, just across the Lough Foyle from (London)Derry. Hosts Eamon and Nora Devlin couldn't have been more accomodating and pleasant. Since Rick Steves Ireland 2011 doesn't include the Washington House or any accomodations in the Redcastle area, we gambled on their listing that we found elsewhere and came out winners. The property was completed and opened for business in November 2010. Fresh and roomy with pleasant accomodations, full irish breakfast, and moderate rates. Roomy and well appointed breakfast room as well as a comfortable sun room with sliding door access to an outside deck with an overlook. The property is perched on a bluff overlooking the picturesque Lough Foyle with breathtaking views. Located just off the main highway paralleling the Lough Foyle, a short, easy drive between Derry and Moville just across the waterway from Northern Ireland. Anyone visiting the Antrim Coast will find easy access from the Washington House B&B via the 15 minute ferry at Green Castle, approximately a 10 minute drive from Redcastle. No need to transit Derry in either direction. Easy to visit the Antrim Coast and return in the same day. And a bonus: Nora had tea and scones awaiting in the sunroom awaiting us on our arrival.
Jim Orr in Covington, LA USA 05/24/2011
Glendine Country House in Arthurstown, County Wexford on the Hook Peninsula (www.glendinehouse.com)was a great find. Georgian country house B&B, reasonably priced. The peninsula turned out to be a highlight of our trip - many interesting ruins, great lighthouse, Dunbrody ship, and Nevilles in Fethard-on-Sea - our favorite pub in Ireland! (www.nevilles.ie) Irene at Nevilles actually helped us find our distant relatives. And the food and atmosphere were great.
Chris in Cedar Point, NC USA 05/17/2011
Please look at and add The Royal Marine Hotel in Dun Laoghaire to your suggested hotels. We loved it...and we got some amazing rates when mentioning your book and staying for 3 days or more. As you know getting into Dublin is a snap from DL.. Please have your Ireland guru check out the Royal Marine Hotel...and get a seaview room.
Chris Canning in Boca Raton, , FL USA 05/13/2011
Rick, we would heighly recommend Cill Bhreac House in Dingle, Co. Kerry. This B&B got numerous recomendations on your forum so we decided to try it. We were not disappointed. Angela went above and beyond to make us feel at home during our stay with her in Dingle. The location is just fabulous with her bedrooms overlooking Dingle Bay and it is actually located on the Slea Head drive so it is an ideal base for touring Dingle.
Hostess: Angela McCarthy Address: Milltown, Dingle, Co. Kerry, Ireland. Phone: 011-353-66-9151358 Web: www.cillbhreachouse.com
Jim Myers in Boston, MA USA 05/08/2011
The Horseshoe Cafe Leap, Ireland Lesley & Gina Mariotti spasmodnomad@gmail.com
Alice Snell in Raleigh, NC USA 05/06/2011
Dublin: We loved doing "Walkabout Wicklow" tours! If you want to tour the beautiful Wicklow mountains, this is the way to do it! We chose the 1 day hike. Joe our guide, picked us up in Dublin, first drove us along scenic Military Road and stopped for great photo ops, then we proceeded to our hike in the mountains. 6 miles and sometimes challenging, but worth it! Fantastic views along the ridge way above the lake. I'm 51 and not in the best shape and was able to do it. Joe is knowledgeable and funny and gave lots of individual attention to everyone in the group! After the hike Joe provided coffee, tea and chocolates and then we went on to tour the Monastery. Great experience! 35.50 -37.00euros. www.walkaboutwicklow.com
Lyndsay in Alexandria, VA USA 04/29/2011
I think it should be noted that Ireland is not just about pretty views and pubs. There is so much history in Ireland and there should be more information about it. Hill of Tara (and cafe next to it) along with Monastboice and New Grange were amazing and one of our favorite visits.
Karen in Suwanee, GA USA 04/14/2011
I think Funghi is over rated
Rick in Seattle, WA USA 03/23/2011
I'm a senior in college, and I traveled to Ireland with four of my girlfriends as a final spring break trip! We were thrilled to discover that most tourist places provide STUDENT DISCOUNTS--make use of that!
If you travel to Ireland
From Kinsale to Dingle -- it's worth a visit to Muckross House!
JoAnna Frederick in Austin, TX USA 03/14/2011
Driving in Ireland is a true adventure for Americans--opposite side of the car, opposite side of the road, narrow, winding roads with lots of blind curves. In the end it was a great adventure and we will certainly do it again. A few tips: definitely carry a good GPS with an Ireland chip. It was invaluable, especially because road signs are, at best, hard to find. That said, the GPS is not perfect, and you will want a very good map as well. Ordinance maps are available at the many TI's. For example, between Kinsale and Dingle, our GPS led us for miles up a narrow, one lane road over the mountains through an area called "Priest's Leap." At the top of the mountain, the GPS map just ended giving us a message to "navigate off route." Luckily, the road, such as it was, continued and we ended up at the bottom of the mountain at a nice chocolate shop. We could have avoided this if we had carried a map in addition to the GPS (although looking back, it was a great adventure!) A final tip on car rental, most Master Cards include collision damage insurance as a benefit that you would otherwise have to pay for. Do your research before you leave, as this insurance can be very expensive.
Joyce in Toledo, Oh USA 02/27/2011
Driving in Ireland is a true adventure for Americans--opposite side of the car, opposite side of the road, narrow, winding roads with lots of blind curves. In the end it was a great adventure and we will certainly do it again. A few tips: definitely carry a good GPS with an Ireland chip. It was invaluable, especially because road signs are, at best, hard to find. That said, the GPS is not perfect, and you will want a very good map as well. Ordinance maps are available at the many TI's. For example, between Kinsale and Dingle, our GPS led us for miles up a narrow, one lane road over the mountains through an area called "Priest's Leap." At the top of the mountain, the GPS map just ended giving us a message to "navigate off route." Luckily, the road, such as it was, continued and we ended up at the bottom of the mountain at a nice chocolate shop. We could have avoided this if we had carried a map in addition to the GPS (although looking back, it was a great adventure!) A final tip on car rental, most Master Cards include collision damage insurance as a benefit that you would otherwise have to pay for. Do your research before you leave, as this insurance can be very expensive.
Joyce in Toledo, Oh USA 02/27/2011
In Trim we enjoyed staying at the Highfield House on Maudlins Road across from the castle. Geraldine and Ed were great hosts. Tel00353 (0)46 9436386; highfieldhouseaccom@eircom.net
Brent Thompson in Ashland, OR USA 11/12/2010
Contrary to the post below, GPS works (Garmin Nuvi) is excellent in Ireland. We used our 4 year old Nuvi and purchased a used Ireland map chip off ebay. Very accurate and precise, especially helpful in finding B&Bs getting into small cities and leaving cities.
Ted Laven in Dade City, FL USA 10/26/2010
Bring a wristwatch! This wasn't on the packing list, but was a last minute thought. Both of us always rely on our cell phones and didn't think about the fact they wouldn't be working.
Heather O in Washington, DC USA 10/25/2010
No one should miss staying at Friars Glen in Killarney. It is only a short cab ride out of town and the tour buses come right to the door if you want to take a ring of kerry or dingle tour. They also have a combo boat and hiking or pony cart tour of Killarney park that is perfect. The price was 40 euros a night although it was the off season. The breakfast was great and the grounds are like being in the park. Dinner is a short walkable half mile away at Molly Darcy's who had the best Irish Stew we had in the whole of Ireland. Contact Mary Fuller at www.friarsglen.ie. Honestly - it's special.
Patty Bush in Independence, Mo USA 10/25/2010
Most B&B's have wifi, but 50/50 whether the connection is up, working in your room, etc... If important, ask up front.
Mary Schroeder in Seattle, WA USA 10/23/2010
Amarach B&B The Glen, Kinsale, Co.Cork Tel : 021-477-4633 Mobile : 086-247-3110 josephine2001@hotmail.com
35-45 euros per person per night
We fell in love with the Amarach B&B, whose welcoming lights greeted our tired eyes at 9:30pm as we entered town from Cork and turned onto The Glen. We knocked on the door timidly given the hour, and Graham welcomed us with his last two rooms. There were small but cozy - at the top of stairs on third level with skylights, small but pretty bathrooms with bright new tile and fixtures. Graham cooked his "fry" (Irish breakfast) every morning - my first experience with black pudding - yum! This lovely family (two brothers and their wives)runs a modest but cheery establishment - 35-45 euros per person per night. They are located at top of The Glen, several doors from laundry, pubs and around the corner from tourist office, banks, post office and much more. We walked everywhere from there, including out to Charles Fort! I have a one page scan I can send you with picture of front, the family, and back/front of business card. I will try to figure out how to send it, but if interested, could you provide e-mail or site to post? Thanks!
Carol Ann Parker in San Jose, CA USA 09/26/2010
GPS, while useful in the states, are absolutely useless in Ireland! We got a Garmin nuvi from Avis, and I don't know if it's updated or not, but it wouldn't work! Thankfully, we returned it next day when we passed by Cork airport Avis and got our full money back. Definitely rely on a good map like Ordnance Survey's Road Atlas (a Godsend!) and a very good tourist office guide (the one in Bru na Boinne Visitor's Centre was SO helpful!). As for driving in Ireland, don't panic or stress out! You'll get over it the first few hours of driving on the left and it'll be a breeze from then on (we hardly got lost and we drove all over the place); however, avoid big cities, ESPECIALLY Dublin and Belfast, where street names change every block - very hard to find your hostel or B&B! Oh and even though Rick Steves thinks Killarney is touristy and should be avoided altogether, don't! Yes, the town is very touristy, but stay in Killarney National Park the whole day - we spent a few hours there and wished we had the whole day instead.
Pearl in Pleasanton, CA USA 09/18/2010
in your book you go from ardmore to kinsale and never stop in youghal,it is a less crowded kinsale with more historic buildings,the best town walls in the republic,the oldest church in constant use,sir walter reliegh house,great food and pubs and the location of the 1954 moby dick movie,a nice stop on the road,thank you
tom in wall, pa USA 09/13/2010
We enthusiastically recommend Tony Kirby as a guide to the Burren Bill and Rima Caspary in New York City, NY USA 09/12/2010 your book was immensely valuable overall....3 quick comments... 1.your recommendation of Fiona Brennan's walking tour of Galway was a Godsend -- we only had a couple of hours to spend in Galway and she made every minute worthwhile (and enjoyable)...2. add Heaton's Guesthouse in Dingle to your recommended lodgings in Dingle -- outstanding in every way .....3. THE best seafood chowder I've had ANYWHERE in the world is served at Keoghs retaurant in Kinvara (a little south of Galway...thanks for you help in making our family's trip a huge success....Jim Cregan, Arlington, VA Jim in Cregan, VA USA 08/30/2010 Please consider adding Alponte Cafe to your recommended restaurants in Dublin. It's at 13 Duke Street in city center south, phone 01 670 8915, and we stumbled onto it by accident in late July. In a neighborhood stuffed with wonderful but expensive restaurants, Alponte was an affordable gem. We had generous dishes of delicious pasta for about 11 euros each, plus tasty salads and appetizers that were reasonably priced. The restaurant is small, only seating about 30 people on two levels. But for a family on a budget that doesn't want to compromise the quality of food, it was a revelation. Alan Fram in Arlington, VA USA 08/29/2010 Following the guidebook simplified this 8 day trip. I guess the last boatride to the Cliffs of Moher was the 'WOW'. The rain cleared and the sun was brilliant on the Cliffs. Great picture ops. Dan Doll in Lincroft, NJ USA 08/18/2010 Trim, Ireland Khan Spices, Indian Restaurant & Take Away www.khanspices.ie Emmett St. Trim
After weeks of eating great Irish food we ate here for a respite. Excellent food (comparable to India Bistro and Taste of India in Seattle, WA)and a warm owner and host, Naser. Born and raised in Pakistan, educated in Europe, settled in Ireland and raised his family, Naser and his restaurant are a true joy and worthy to stand along with all of your other excellent recommendations. Best, Barbara Sullivan, Seattle WA Barbara Sullivan in Seattle, WA USA 08/10/2010 Tips:
Encourage drivers to either rent or bring a GPS since road signs are difficult to find. Also, obtain a good city map upon arrival. We found the Michelin map of Ireland extremely valuable in addition to our GPS.
We also discovered that as the roads are being updated, more of the M's and N's are merging. (In other words, M's and N's are synonymous.....but not in all cases.)
When asking for directions, indicate which town you are going to or in which direction you are headed since we were told by locals that road numbers don't mean much to them.
Aran Islands: Do not park at the first parking lot you come to. Keep driving and use the second lot which is closer to the dock.
If interested in visiting the Kissane Sheep Farm, call ahead to confirm times. Since it's family owned, times may change as happened with us.
We made excellent use from the Heritage Card. Fantastic purchase. Push this! Miriam Ting in Santa Cruz, Ca USA 08/08/2010 The highlight of our trip to Ireland was the Falls Road taxi tour of the "troubles." We called to make a reservation for Saturday and when the owner asked us how we heard of them we told him the Rick Steves' book. He had never heard of Rick Steves so we left him our 2009 book (we also had a 2010 book). This tour was unbelievable. We were guided through the Protestant and Catholic parts of Belfast by a man who had been a member of the Provisional IRA and told us about his personal experiences. As a history teacher, it was a great way to end our trip. Nancy in Fountain Valley, CA USA 08/03/2010 July 2010. We absolutely loved taking a guided 2 hour walk through the Burren in western Ireland with Tony Kirby, a wonderful naturalist and historian. We found him in the small village of Kilfenora, at the Burren Centre, about an hour southwest of Galway. He is a fount of information about both natural and human history, and speaks passionately about the geology, flora and fauna of this extraordinary and beautiful area, full of limestone formations, rock tombs, and amazing plants and animals--an area of fascinating andn precious biodiversity. Tony is friendly, sharp, welcoming and an excellent teacher who includes his visitors' interests in his engaging, easy walking talks. Am absolute must for really understanding Ireland and getting of the tourist track! We urge you to add his unique offering to a guidebook. Here's his website: www.heartofburrenwalks.com OR contact www.theburrencentre.ie, or the centre's phone number (065)7088030 PLEASE TELL THE WORLD ABOUT TONY KIRBY!
Melissa and John Kern, California Melissa Pickford in Pacific Grove, CA USA 08/03/2010 Stay in Dun Laoghaire rather than in Dublin proper. Light rail makes a fast trip into the city. We enjoyed staying in this lovely, quiet town on the coast. Windsor Lodge was such a great lodging value and Walter's Restaurant had extraordinarily good food. Kitty Kramer in Centennial, CO USA 07/22/2010 Our group enjoyed seeing the subtle aspects of the Burren, those things not readily seen at first. James Hanlon in Cedar Falls, IA USA 07/20/2010 We loved your walking plan for Giant's Causeway. Beautiful! Cayenne restaurant in Belfast was a big hit. We loved it! We also thought highly of the Asgard Guest House in Galway. We think you need to consider the Tara Hotel in Belfast. It was a beautiful hotel and very reasonably priced. The staff was highly knowledgeable, as well. Karen Labenz in Clive, IA USA 07/18/2010 Molly Gallivan's Cottage near Kenmare and Kilarney. If you are in the Kenmare or Kilarney area of County Kerry, you are only a few miles from one of the most entertaining and historically interesting places in Ireland. On Tuesday nights there is a delicious three-course traditional Irish meal followed by award-winning story telling mixed with live Irish music. All five in our family rated this as the best part of a very active 12-day vacation in Ireland. We laughed, sang along, danced, and were surprised that four hours could pass so quickly (even our 11 year-old son was engaged the entire time). The story-telling is so entertaining, the venue is so intimate (there is room for only about 35 guests), and the owners are very hospitable. The next day we went back and did the self-guided walk around the restored working farm and learned more about life in the early 1800s. This is a class act that is warm, intimate, and not at all "touristy". Rick Spletter in Dallas, TX USA 07/17/2010 Wonderful restuarant discovery: The Blackboard Bistro, The Basement, 4 Clare St., Dublin 2. French-influenced food. There were six of us eating and between us we ordered a lot of things -- every single item was outstanding, including the bread. The mushroom soup was indescribable. Excellent value for money and very attentive service. Brilliant. I'd recommend putting this in the guidebook! Maya in Cambridge, MA USA 07/03/2010 Do your car rental homework before you go and get the TOTAL cost in an email from them. The full insurance costs are not included in the web quotes and renters are getting sticker shock from those costs at the counter. Most credit cards no longer cover Ireland and do not provide for ZERO liability. CDW does not give full coverage alone and you need to purchase zero excess insurance to be fully covered. Some rental companies look cheaper on the surface but rip you on the insurance costs. Shop around for a full quote and make them put it in an email. Brian in Fort Lauderdale, FL USA 06/07/2010 The Atlantic Drive on Achill Island is absolutely spectacular!! Worth the trip out there on a nice day. Prices on Golf Courses, B&Bs and Hotels are soft and can be negotiated. They were all aware that the Americans are not coming and prices have come down as well as the Euro being a lot weaker.Ireland is suffering just like America, too much empty housing everywhere and job losses. Both the Giant's Causeway and Cliffs of Moher stop charging for admission at 6 or 7 pm. We went after that and had the whole sites to ourselves. It was light out until 10pm in May. Brian in Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA 06/06/2010 This was our first visit abroad!!! What an INVALUABLE help the book was in planning and executing the trip! Based on our experiences, it might be VERY helpful to use LARGE, BOLD letters when explaining that in Ireland you are better off traveling town-by-town rather than relying on road signs (as we are so used to doing in the States). Also, travelers should know that street signs are NOT EASY TO FIND!!!!! Even if you have an address for a spot, unless you ask, you may not find it! Cabbies are a GREAT source of help in the cities!!!! ASK, ASK, ASK!!!!! We stopped in Coleraine overnight--shouldn't have done it!!! No restaurants to speak of, shops closed by 5:30 and NO PUBS!!!! Shirley in Oconomowoc, WI USA 06/05/2010 Snailbox- A hotel with a traditional Irish Pub, Restaurant & Venue.
This place was absolutely amazing! When we were stranded in Ireland due to the Volcano in Iceland, we had no where to stay. Snailbox advertised on the radio that they would provide free accommodations AND meals, AND transportation to and from the airport for those folks who were stranded due to the Volcano. The manager Steven picked us up from the airport and drove us 20 mins to the hotel. They provided us with two hotel rooms, dinner, dessert and all the Cider/Guinness we could drink...all for FREE. There was also a poker game going on in the pub that the boys in our group enjoyed participating in. In the morning one of the staff picked us up and drove us to the airport to catch our flight. We offered several times to give them at least SOME money, but they refused. It was one of the nicest things anyone has ever done for the four of us poor college student travelers. Not only was everything free, but the quality of these accommodations were unbeatable! Nice comfy beds, great showers (which are hard to come by in Ireland), a beautiful view, incredibly friendly and caring staff, fun and quaint bar, location is excellent- especially from the Dublin airport, and GREAT food at the restaurant! Try the cheese burger, then get the cheesecake or chocolate fudge cake for dessert! Delicious!! If you get the chance, please go here and give these nice people the business and the money that they deserve and we couldn’t afford to give them at the time but that they provided anyway! Elizabeth Walters in Claremont , CA USA 05/06/2010 We would highly recommend The Pax House, a B&B in Dingle Ireland. The owner and operator is John O'Farrell. Although we planned to stay two nights, my husband and I both became ill. Fortunately we were able to extend our stay for two additional nights. John was extremely accommodating and went out of his way to make us comfortable. He even brought us chicken soup, yogurt and the Irish Times. Many of the rooms and the breakfast room at Pax House have extraordinary views of Dingle Harbor and the Ring of Kerry beyond. Pax House is a 12 minute walk from the center of town. You may reach John at 353 (0) 66 9151518 or email him at info@pax-house.com. Pax House is located on Upper John Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry Ireland Terri Muren in Stonington, CT USA 04/28/2010 Absolutely agree about Gort-Na-Nain. My favorite B&B in Ireland. If they are still doing it, ask about Lucy and Ultan preparing a meal for you. The best I ever had! It is a vegetarian guesthouse, but while we are vegetarian, there were guests who were not and shared the same opinion about the food.
Also second the recommendation for Cafe Paradiso, a vegetarian restaurant. Ultan grows the vegetables for the restaurant.
Both are my absolute favorites near Cork. Erin in San Diego, CA USA 04/21/2010 Gort-Na-Nain is a vegetarian guest house outside of Kinsale and Cork in County Cork, Ireland. It is an incredible place - so peaceful and relaxing. I highly recommend it to anyone traveling to County Cork. Lucy Stewart & Ultan Walsh, Gort-Na-Nain, Ballyherkin, Nohoval, Kinsale, Co. Cork Tel: +353 21 4770647 Email: lucy@gortnanain.com website: http://www.gortnanain.com/booking.html
Cafe Paradiso in Cork is great for a fancy dinner out. Splurge a little and enjoy this incredible food. 16 Lancaster Quay Cork, Co. Cork, Ireland 021 427 7939 www.cafeparadiso.ie Holly in Pasadena, CA USA 04/12/2010 I don't really have an addition --more of a question. In 2002 we traveled to Ireland for the first time and as from what I remember, we only used Rick's book. We made a trip to Slieve League Cliffs in Donegal and found it facinating---my question, why is it no longer listed in your guide book? It was a high point of the trip, but then the whole trip was a high point !! Connie Shea in Deer Island, OR USA 04/10/2010 The Falls Hotel, Ennistymon, County Clare The Woodenbridge Hotel, Woodenbridge, County Wicklow The County Arms Hotel, Birr, County Offaly
Penelope Rittgers in DeSoto, IA USA 03/24/2010 Dont be scared of taking the bus around the country! The locals all do,& the buses are comfortable and run pretty much on time (within 10 mins of listed time)! Leave the driving stick shift on the other side of the car and road to someone else! A Outlaw in Charleston, SC USA 03/20/2010 I have been studying in Dublin for the past month and I was very surprised that Ireland 2009 did not include Cork as it is the second biggest city ni Ireland. Another play that you might consider adding is Bray because it seems like quite the tourism town with great restaurants, hotels, and views. Claire Fisher in Chicago, IL USA 02/22/2010 Portrush, Ireland: Antrim House, 14 Eglinton Street, Tel 028 70823609 The places recommended in your guidebook were booked in July, so we found this on the internet. It is a GREAT B & B: gorgeous old home with a nice owner. Full cook to order breakfast. We had a family room on the 3rd floor w/ double bed, 2 twin beds, desk, full new bath. Great location across the street from Forty North and view of ocean. It was our favorite housing on this trip. Nancy Grosshans in Spring, TX USA 01/28/2010 Athlumney Manor B&B, Navan, became my Irish home-away-from-home. Not elegant, but homelike: comfortable bed, plenty of hot water, and choice of breakfasts, nicely presented. Pat and Pauline treated me like royalty. Denise Plouviez in Columbia City, IN USA 01/10/2010 One reader wrote that credit cards cover the additional car rental insurance in Ireland. Please read the fine print carefully. Ireland is one country out of about four that credit card companies don't cover. You will need to buy extra insurance from the rental company or a company like Auto Club. Judy Brose in Grass Valley, Ca USA 12/15/2009 I recommend an addition to the guidebook. A 15th century castle surrounded by indigenous woodlands. Dunsandle Castle Kiltullagh Athenry Co Galway Ireland
00353 91 867651 or 00353 83 3718602 info@dunsandlecastle.com www.dunsandlecastle.com
Dunsandle Castle is a 15th century castle that was completely restored. It was recenty opened to the public in July this year. Facilities include guided tours, exhibitions, woodland walks and picnic area. In contrast to the other castles spread throughout Ireland, Dunsandle Castle is not owned by the OPW but privately owned. The guided tours are really communicative and the castle's atmosphere is authentic. The visit will be a great experience, especially for families. It is more than just visiting a medieval castle. It's a whole day out. The castle is sign posted Sylvia Schnappauf in Erlangen, Germany 11/18/2009 For absolutely breathtaking scenery drive through The Gap of Dunloe, Killarney. This is a narrow pass (you want a small car) between Macgillycuddy's Reeks and the Purple Mountains near Killarney. Tour buses cannot drive through so you either need to drive a car or else, take one of the horse and carriage rides offered. We drove through, early in the morning on a beautiful October day. It was quiet with very few people around. I've been all over Ireland and have seen many beautiful sights and I have to say this knocked me out it was so gorgeous! J Burke in Elmhurst, IL USA 11/17/2009 Discoveries: All the Two's Guesthouse, Galway Road, Clifden; Connemara, Co Galway; Tel: 095 22222. (open all year)(allthetwos@gmail.com; www.clifden-allthetwos-connemara.com) Fabulous hostess, Maureen; new building, beautiful accomodations, elevator to second floor, hairdryers, Wi Fi, impressive breakfast. We stayed a month in Ireland (October, 2009). Gray Gables B&B in Ennis was a good first/last night place to stay (using the Shannon Airport, and Mary Keane is a good hostess. Almost all the B&B's were fun, comfortable, and a way to visit with people. Our fav B&B's: near Dublin: Glenn-na-Smol in Howth (extra-helpful); near Kinsale: Insiara B&B, Ballinhassig, Co. Cork; near Ring of Kerry and Beara Peninsula: Water's Edge in Kenmare; the Connemara: All the Two's in Clifden; just west of Derry, but in the Republic, near Newtown: Amare Farmhouse B&B (ask them about the ring fort Grianon of Aileach). Tips: we took clothes that would dry quickly after hand-laundering (no jeans)and could be layered. We wore silk or microfiber long johns most days (October). Have a rainjacket at the ready! Our hiking boots may be our most-enjoyed item we took with us. Warm and dry and well worth the space and weight in our luggage. Though we're not interested in the nightlife and big meals, we found plenty to love - the people, the outdoors, and history. Shirley in Pagosa Springs, CO USA 11/08/2009 On our recent tour we found one of the recommended cafes closed, but just down the street was Cafe Renoir, a wonderful "lst floor" cafe/bistro--roomy enough for a whole tour bus, extensive bistro menu, including vegetarian selections, an on site bakery and pizza oven, wonderful salads, sandwiches and deli dishes Prices were fine too. I'd really recommend it. It's at 93-95 Botanic Avenue Belfast www.cafe-Renoir.com Tel 028 9033 1300 INFO@Cafe-Renoir.com
Karen Creason Best of Ireland 2009 Karen Creason in Vancouver, WA USA 10/28/2009 Peggy O'Neil's B&B in Cashel. On-site owners, new, clean, not expensive or fancy. Very friendly and helpful. peggyoneills@hotmail.com Also...Oz Haven restaurant in Kinsale! Hip and delicious. Lori Ecklebe in Omaha, NE USA 10/25/2009 I'm a former truck driver, so you probably can't understand why I was so nervous about driving in Ireland, but I was. I have a Garmin GPS system here in the States and so I decided to search the internet for an Ireland chip for it that I could use while driving on the left and sitting on the right! There was a place called "Memory C", based in Ireland, that sold the chip for something like $67.00 (u.s.). I got it and, honestly, didn't have much high hopes for it. To my surprise, it was the best investment of the trip. Accurate down to the last round-a-bout and guided us through the smallest of villages. I would totally recommend this option to anyone driving in Ireland. Jake in Queen Creek, AZ USA 10/24/2009 The Davitts B&B in Kenmare and the Rivermont B&B in Kinsale were both wonderful. Davitts is above a pub, but don't let that put you off. It was lovely accommodations. The Rivermont was a free standing modern home about 3 miles out of Kinsale. Beautiful views and equally splendid accommodations. Jake in Queen Creek, AZ USA 10/24/2009 Aaranmore Lodge. 14 Coleraine Road. Portrush. Co Antrim. www.aaranmorelodge.com Tel +44 28 70824640 Taylor in Boston, USA 10/18/2009 We found a terrific taxi service in the Dublin area. The driver's name is Eddie Crosbie mobile: 086 4086456 and tel: 01 8027774 He was courteous, on time and had a very nice taxi. He waited patiently for us while we took in some sights like New Grange. Gail Moser in Bandon, Or USA 10/12/2009 Newlands Lodge Kells Road Kilkenny www.newlandslodge.com Kimberly Lachamn in Libertyville, IL USA 10/11/2009 We just returned from Ireland and used your guide extensively. We have two recommendations for inclusion in future guides: 1. The Anchor Guesthouse, 49 Lower Gardiner St, +353 1 8786913, gtc@anchorguesthouse.com, www.anchorguesthouse.com. We stayed there three days at the end of September, 2009. This 22 bedroom B&B has been owned and operated for fifteen years by Joan and Gerry Coyne. A very well kept Georgian house in the front, most of the rooms are in a new building in the back; these are very quiet. Either Joan or Gerry is almost always there, and the owner attention shows in the well cleaned and decorated house. We paid 70 Euros per night for a double (actually triple room) en suite, including breakfast. The Guesthouse has a large and cheery breakfast room and a large sitting room for guests. The Anchor Guesthouse is right next to the Townhouse, that you recommend, but it is substantially cheaper and appears cheerier and quieter from the outside - new painting and lots of flower boxes in the windows.
2. Govinda's Vegetarian Restaurant, Abbey Street just Wast of O'Connell Street. This Hindu style restaurant serves huge portions at very moderate prices. We shared one plate, at 10.50 Euros, for two and couldn't finish it all. The restaurant is close to the Anchor Guesthouse. You don't have very many restaurants listed north of the Liffey, so this would be a good addition. David Nelson in Silver Spring, MD USA 10/05/2009 Gurteen Village; great trad Irish music in 2 pubs, the best B&B in 15 nights in Ireland: Churchview B&B Gurteen. The evening pub food at Crossbow was great! The Michael Coleman Music Center in Gurteen was fantastic! Wed and Sat Sessions in the summer, and other times during the year to be announced. The upstairs in the center has an audio system that allows you to hear thousands of traditional Irish musicians and music on numerous instruments. Gurteen rivals Doolin for Trad music, in my estimation! Dan Dan in Ocean Shores, Wa USA 09/26/2009 Dear Rick We wanted to inform you of the recent upgrades to our ferry service from Doolin. You have us listed as an option for the Aran Islands (Jack B) We invested in a second boat this year and have rebranded ourselves as Doolin2Aran Ferries. We now offer ROUNDTRIP ferries to all 3 Aran Islands at the following very competitive prices:
Inis Mor - 20 euros per person
Inis Meain - 20 euros per person
Inis Oirr - 15 euros per person
The prices are much more competitive than those currently listed on your site. Joan Reilly in Doolin, Co Clare, Ireland 09/24/2009 We used the book exclusively and when we went to a city not included we felt lost and didn't know where to begin. Without the "bible" we would never done the things it suggested. The itineray layout was excellent. We would not want to traved anywhere with the guidance given be Rick. Maria M Maclean in Nelson, BC Canada 09/20/2009 the Clontarf Castle Hotel, Dublin - Great rooms and resturants, quiet neighborhood surroundings, easy access of public transportation to the nightlife and attractions of City Center Dublin. All at an affordable alternative to Dublin Center City MIchael Habig in Bloomington, Mn USA 09/19/2009 As a home base for visiting the historic County Meath, we found Teltown House, halfway between Kells and Navan, just off the N3. Renee and Bartle Clark run this top quality farmstay B&B and are two of the most pleasant people we have met in years of traveling. Phone 046-902 3239 or mobile 087-665 9022. E-mail: teltownhouse@eircom.net Darrell and Dolores Meyer in Mountain Brook, AL USA 09/18/2009 While we were in Ireland last week, we came across Molly Gallivan's Cottage in Bonane, Ireland, just a few kilometers from Kenmare. Stephen, the owner, mentioned the Homecoming held every Tuesday night and we booked a spot (only room for about fifteen). We witnessed a highlight of our trip with music, acting, storytelling and great food. It all took place in a 200 year old cottage in front of an open fire. This should be a must for anyone visiting the Kenmare region. Hopefully, Rick will visit sometime and include it in his Ireland guidebook. The people couldn't have been nicer. Bob and Donna Johnson in Hendersonville, NC USA 09/14/2009 Our greatest discovery was the people. Taking the time to talk to the locals in Connemara, Galway, Belfast and Dublin provided a view of the country we otherwise would have missed. On a random run through the neighborhood surrounding The Camera House I found a music and food festival taking place that week. Chefs from Chicago and the local area were competing and the local music played non-stop on a huge stage. What an great afternoon!
Running in Belfast was a challenge (streets uneven and if you aren't watching out a bit hazardout with cars). Pamela in Overland Park, KS USA 09/12/2009 Dermott Ryan, a lifelong residents of Kinsale, gives excellent tours of the town and his twice a day times are very convenient.
O'Brien's Tower at Cliffs of Moher is not worth the euros. The views are fantastic from the cliff's edge.
Allihies on the Beara Peninsula is not worth the long, winding, narrow road from Eyeries. Allihies is just another tidy town. Make Eyeries your last stop.
Mary Ann in Wilmette, IL USA 09/06/2009 The small village of Gurteen, east of Tobercurry, south of Sligo is chock full of great trad Irish musicians. Two pubs have regular scheduled music, and the Coleman Music Center is a MUST SEE! Interactive audio center upstairs with 100's of recordings of all kinds of Trad music, intruments, and performers. It has the best selection of music books, instruments, and CD's that we have found in Ireland. The Coleman Music Center has Trad Sessions on Wed and Sat nights during July and August, in their new state-of-the-art music theatre, and other scheduled sessions throughout the year. You can contact them at: www.colemanirishmusic.com Daniel Murphy in Ocean Shores, WA USA 09/02/2009 It was a lot harder to find Minard Castle on the Dingle Peninsula than Rick let on. The roads were NOT well marked, & we probably covered the same stretch of road between Dingle Town & Four Mile Strand three times before we found the turn. But we did find the castle eventually & holy cow was it worth the effort. That tiny beach just below it was gorgeous & the castle itself was breathtaking. And then we realized that Minard Castle was the actual picture on the front of our guidebook. We took a picture of ourselves in front of the castle holding up the book. You can totally see the matching castle. Do you have a bulletin board where we can post something like that? We'd love to share it. And thanks for putting together such a wonderful & comprehensive book. By the end of the trip, we were referring to it as Our Buddy Rick. As in "Where should we have dinner tonight?" "I don't know. Let's ask Our Buddy Rick." Thanks again. Susan Seyfarth in St. Paul, MN USA 08/29/2009 I would recommend adding Joy's Rockside House B&B, Cashel, Co. Tipperary to your guidebook. Rem and Joan Joy were gracious and helpful hosts, the room was great, and the breakfast wonderful. Located just below Rock of Cashel. Beautiful view of the Rock at night.
For those driving, I would recommend driving the "Vee" on R668 between Clogheen and Lismore, Co. Tipperary. This route was recommended by our host at Joy's Rockside House B&B and offered spectacular views of the valley below. Kevin and Sheila in Whitesboro, NY USA 08/29/2009 Bru Boru cultural center in Cashel had a fantastic music and dance show during th esummer, now finished for the year. larry in rochester, mn USA 08/27/2009 -Kinsale: please mention the relatively new river walkway between Kinsale and Charles Fort. We took the very busy road before we discovered this lovely walk. Think the sign said Salmon Walkway..not sure -ALSO: The Burren Perfumery was one of the nicest places we visited and not mentioned in your wonderful book. -ALSO: Kenmare: We stayed at Muxnaw Lodge (muxnawlodge@eircom.net 06441252 Hanna Boland)It is a hugeold manor house overlooking the river on 571 just past the bridge..within 12 minutes walk to town. It is old, but charming. Breakfast is served with linen, silver, fresh flowers, in front of a warm fire under a Waterford chandelier. Hannah is a charming, gracious and very helpful hostess...if you want the pristine-ness of a Hilton, this isn't for you, but if you want a taste of old Ireland ..beautiful river views, gardens, Laura Ashley fabrics and wallpaper, overstuffed furniture, casually elegant manor life you might give this a shot. ALSO: Dun Manus, Screebe, Ross Muck,Connemara, Co Galway,dunmanusbandb@hotmail.com,Theresa...clean, moderate but also moderately priced, beautiful water view,Theresa VERY helpful and typically fiery Irish..the Peacock Hotel w/in 10 minutes, serves the best fresh caught wild salmon dinner EVER for 12.95 Euros! Susan and Lamar Robinette in Clemson, sc USA 08/23/2009 The town of Portumna and the Oak Lodge B&B. Oaklodgeportumna@eircom.net Larry in Pearland, TX USA 07/31/2009 We stumbled onto Molly Gallivan's going from Kenmare to Glengarrif. What a hidden gem! From the video explaining the history of the area and the quaint farm to the terrific goods and a spot of lunch, it was a place we'll include on our next trip. Brenda in Bloomfield Hills, MI USA 07/28/2009 Travelled to Belfast for a long weekend in May, visited Derry and Giant's Causeway as well, and had a great time and made good use of 2007 guidebook.
Wanted to share the following tips:
Left Luggage - available at the Belfast Welcome Center nr City Hall. You'll need photo ID (e.g. passport). (I didn't notice this in 2007 book but it may be in later editions?)
Restaurant recommendation - Molly's Yard, 1 College Green Mews, near Queen's Uni and recommended accomodations. Small but local/seasonal delicious menu, microbrewed real ales (College Green Brewery); a little pricey, but pre-theatre special set menus to take advantage of.
General note on beer in Belfast - several pubs serve local- and regional-brewed real ale. If you have fond memories of proper ale in Britain, then Belfast can give you more than a faint reminder of it during your trip to Ireland!
Not that there's anything wrong with the Guiness and other keg fare, which I enjoyed at the excellent Kelly's Cellars (mentioned in the guidebook) as well as the nearby Maddens Bar (trad music upstairs from ~2230, Sat nights). Fantastic places! Overall a fascinating place and I think it would be missing half the point to visit as a daytrip from Dublin. From the chatty, vibrant city center nightlife to the lingering solemnness of Shankill and other sectarian neighbourhoods, the contradictions deserve to be experienced and digested. I found it very thought provoking and despite some minor setbacks (i.e. scaring one local lady by asking where she had got her Tim Hortons coffee!) and grim sights, have taken a lot of positive experience from it all and have a lot of hope for the future of the city. I mean, "rough" places like Glasgow and Liverpool have taken center stage as cultural capitals, so why not Belfast..? In a few years time there will be a few more conventional visitor attractions as well, relating to Titanic etc., so watch this space ;)
Cheerio, Brian Portsmouth, UK / NS, Canada Brian in Portsmouth, UK 07/27/2009 Driving from Galway to Dublin--exit the main road and visit Clonmacnoise. These ruins, dating back to the 600's, had a rich history and, for us, surpassed Rock of Cashel and Glendolough. It is well worth the detour; I'm amazed there is no reference to it in Rick's book. Harriet Achtman in Scottsdale, AZ USA 07/19/2009 Here is a historical attraction that must be included in your next Ireland guide. "Molly Gallivans" Cottage & Traditional farm found on N71 in Bonane, Co. Kerry, Ireland between Kenmare and Glengarriff In particular the once a week evening (Tuesday)dinner show. http://mollygallivans.com/wake.html My wife and I by chance attended this dinner/show and had the best evening of our two week Ireland trip. Starting with a taste of homemade Irish moonshine, through dinner and culminating with the interactive "Homecoming" show. We felt that we were truly part of something special and a connection with the hard yet wonderfully historic family and friend gathering. This is a do not miss evening for those who want to experience true historic Irish life, food and music without the ever-present crowds. Don Thurmond in Brighton, Mi USA 07/18/2009 We found great traditional music at the Reel Inn in Donegal Town (it's by the bridge on Bridge Street) and at Curragh Rua in Dunfanaghy, which also had the advantage of starting early - apparently most music up on the north coast doesn't start till 11 p.m.!!
Heed the driving advice in the appendix and get the atlas, even if you have GPS! Our GPS unit slid off the dash when "delete all" was showing on the touchscreen, and we also took some pretty hairy trips in the mountains following the GPS directions which always favored the most direct route.
Ceide Fields in County Mayo is definitely worth a visit if you're in the area. Spectacular cliff views and a really interesting stone age farming community site - totally preserved under the peat, in contrast to Newgrange and Tara where hundreds of generations lived after the stone age people and influenced the landscape. It's an OPW site where you can use your Heritage Card.
There are spectacular beaches on the fjord-y part of Ireland up north at Dunfanaghy & the next peninsula over. We were lucky with gorgeous 80-degree sunny weather.
My husband's a golfer and his rounds of golf and visits to the driving range put us in contact with non-tourist-industry locals we wouldn't have met otherwise. Shan Hays in Mesa, AZ USA 07/04/2009 We usually book accomodation using Rick's list of places to sleep--mostly bed and breakfast. However, this did not work for us in Kinsale, as all the places suggested in the guide had already been reserved. I went to the internet and found a lovely gem that Rick should not miss out on. The place is called "Landfall House"--www.landfallhouse.com, Tel: 021-4772575 Cappagh, Kinsale, C. Cork, Ireland. Email:info@landfallhouse.com. The proprietor Margo Searls and her husband have owned this bed and breakfast for 12 years and are absolutely the most welcoming and hospitable you will find anywhere, and the accomodations are first rate. The panoramic views of the river and harbour make this an accomodation destination. Donna Wichelman in Fort Collins, CO USA 06/29/2009 An Riasc (www.anriasc.ie). A bandb 11km outside of the village of Dingle. Mountains on three sides (including the 3 Sisters and the Atlantic outside our window. Very unique options'Irish' lessons - they speak Irish in the home, home cooked dinner, arranged a mountain guide for us, uses wherever possible organic food. A wonderful host (Denise Begley) and family. Her 9 year old daughter played a song on the piano for us at dinner. This stay alone made our trip to Ireland a magical experience. Steve Ferrin in Naperville, Il USA 06/28/2009 Ceide Fields http://www.museumsofmayo.com/ceide.htm
Ballycastle County Mayo Ireland
We were in awe of the history of this archeological site. The guide was wonderful. It is worth going to Ballina and going out here the next day. We stayed at the terrific Red River Lodge and Dolores Jordan gave us a list of all the other places to see in the area.
Tel: +353 (0) 96 43325
Fax: + 353 (0) 96 43261
Email: ceidefields@opw.ie Nancy McMurtrie in Verona, NJ USA 06/24/2009 I spents LOTS of money on a total of five travel books -- when I only needed to purchase one: Rick Steve's IRELAND 2009. Well put-together; all info is there! Purchase this book -- and take your own color photos. Shaye Evans in Lafayette , LA USA 06/23/2009 We used your Ireland 2009 Guidebook and had fine experiences at all the B & B's you recommended. One place we stayed that wasn't in your book but which was really nice, was Fort Ann Farmhouse in Patrickswell near Adare. We booked through Irish Farmhouse Holidays (Brigid Salman) brigid@irishfarmholidays.com but the direct address and phone for the farmhouse is: Fort Ann Adare Road, Patrickswell Co Limerick Phone: 061-355162 email: fortannfarmhouse@yahoo.co.uk The owners are Breda and Michael Mann and they have a lovely farmhouse with comfortable rooms (ensuite with electric shower...nice) The view from our bedroom window was of the lush green lawn and garden in front. Breda was the ultimate hostess who prepared a delicious breakfast and drew us the very best map ever of the drive from Patrickswell to Shannon Airport! We enjoyed visiting Adare (only 4 miles away) and the Irish music and sing along at Pat Collins Pub there. We think this location (Adare) and the Ft. Ann Farmhouse are worthy of inclusion in future editions of your book. Marie & Bob Andel in Kirkwood, MO USA 06/16/2009 We went to Ireland for our Honeymoon and really enjoyed what we saw with the helpful tips of Rick Steves. We had the 2008 copy. Sarah Arehart in Minot, ND USA 06/12/2009 We used the guide book as our bible, but we also added details from other folks as well. Our favorite discoveries included Avoca, which happened to be our first night in Ireland and just what we needed after our flight. Knowledgeable B&B operator, small town and a pleasant community meeting place style pub in town. It's usually a touristy center because of the Avoca Mills, but it's really nice after all the day-trippers are gone.
We really think that Slieve League should get more consideration from the guidebook. I wasn't really impressed with Donegal, Sligo or other areas around it, so I agree with your assessment not to include it, but there has been great efforts made recently to increase access to Slieve League. With the walls around the Cliffs of Moher, Slieve League was a nice alternative and an opportunity to walk around beautiful landscape at impressive heights. Very nice around sunset.
Kinsale has a very nice crystal shop for those disappointed that Waterford's factory has closed for the moment.
Vodafone sold us a SIM card for 10 Euros with 10 Euros worth of time on the card, so it was like getting the card for free which is nice. Unlocked phones are wonderful.
Plus, roadside strawberry stands are perfect places to augment those picnic lunches. Wexford Strawberries were an absolute delight. Gary Zekis in Little Rock, AR USA 06/09/2009 I would like to recommend the Play At Height climbing centre and high ropes adventure in Dingle, Co. Kerry. Great fun for all the family. Cian O Driscoll in Dingle, Ky Ireland 06/08/2009 Pax House B&B in Dingle was wonderful. The room was pleasant (although the bathroom was a little small)The breakfasts were delicious and varied, and the owner, John, could not have been more helpful with directions and recommendations for restaurants and pubs. But it was defintely the sea view from the room and the dining room that put this place over the top. Views of fields, cows, sheep and the beautiful sea. There were binoculars in each room for an even better view. Loved it. Ellen Cole in Shaker Heights, OH USA 06/05/2009 laundry in Portrush is out of business Chocolate factory on ring of Kerry was closed--Boooo Gail Buss in Ballwin, MO USA 05/31/2009 I also stayed at Virginia's in Kenmare and suggest Rick look into adding it. Yes, it was top rated in other travel sites, but I was impressed by the breakfast quality - fit for a foodie. Try the pears and artisan blue cheese dish. You get a check list for the various breakfast courses. They got me off in plenty of time to get to a point to avoid all tour buses on my way to Valencia Island. John Yee in Kensington, CA USA 05/30/2009 Rick's advice on the clockwise route around the Ring of Kerry beginning at Kenmare resulted in a perfect day! We only encountered two tour buses. The Skellig Ring really exceeded our expectations and we would highly recommend! Stephanie Simmons in Lapeer, MI USA 05/29/2009 The Healy Pass, near Kenmare, is a worthwhile detour (about 1 hour off the main road from Bantry to Kenmare).
The Eliza Lodge in Dublin was a find from TripAdvisor, and it was a good location and reasonably priced.
The book "1916", which you recommended, was a great read and set the stage for our trip to Dublin. Laura Gilligan in Chicago, IL USA 05/25/2009 Youghal, a beach town with wonderful medieval-era buildings, proved to be a great halfway point between Waterford and Kinsale, and the Roseville bed and breakfast there proved to be wonderful. Our favorite bed and breakfast proved to be a non-Rick Steves listing in Kinsale, Landfall House. I know it's not centrally located, but anyone with a car would love this place. The house is beautiful and clean, the views are wonderful, the breakfast great, and our hosts were incredible. I cried when we left. Also, Dunmore East was a charming fishing village in which to stay. Shirlene Hayashibara in Riverside, CA USA 05/20/2009 I preferred staying in Salthill vs trying to stay in Galway, as the town was much smaller. Plus we were a 15 minute walk from the Galway downtown.
The Torr Head Scenic Road in Antrim was wonderful. Lovely overlook at the end of the road. Janet in Battle Creek, MI USA 05/17/2009 Forget about the Ring of Kerry - it's too long and too crowded. At the recommendation of our host at Virginia's B&B in Kenmare, we drove around the Beara Penninsula instead. The views were fantastic, the towns were cute and we nearly had the place to ourselves.
If you're a hiker, try the walks in Glenninchaquin Park with its twin lakes and waterfalls. The walk up to the larger lake is worth it.
Drive all the way to the west end of the penninsula to see the cable car to Dursey Island. Stop in Glengarriff for tea, then drive over the summit and through the tunnels on the N71 back to Kenmare. Joe Gaffney in Rohnert Park, CA USA 05/15/2009 Achill Island near Westport is an untouristed and relaxed alternative to the hectic Beara, Kerry, and Dingle peninsulas. Will in Kirkland, WA USA 05/15/2009 If one is looking for a layed back relaxing vacation without missing anything, stay in Doolin, Ireland. It is the most enchanting, friendly village. Kathleen H. Douglas in Yuma, AZ USA 03/16/2009 We went in March (last week) and had a great time because it was so quiet. It was also less expensive because it was off-season. And the weather was not bad! We had slight drizzle on some days, but for the most part, sunny weather.
I would better warn readers about the showers. There was NO water pressure and I was left with shampoo in my hair on several occasions.
Also, to successfully navigate around the country by car, readers should definitely rent a GPS (and also keep a paper map handy - usually provided by the rental car agency - for those new roads that the GPS does not recognize). Vivian Arestia in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/15/2009 Hello,
I would like to request the following accommodation addition to the Rick Steves Guidebook for Ireland.
Property: College Crest Guest House
Address: 5 College Road, Galway City, Ireland
email: info@collegecrest.com
Website: http://www.collegecrest.com/
The property was listed some years ago in the guidebook after Rick visited it.
It was removed from the book after some problems with the last manager led to some negative reviews.
College Crest has now been under new management for 2 years.
Helen Cunningham, the new manager, has been modernising the property, to ensure top class Bed and Breakfast accommodation in Galway to our guests.
If possible, we would very much like to welcome Rick here again on his next trip to Galway!
Please visit our new website also at http://www.collegecrest.com/
Thank you very much,
With kind regards
Nicholas Harris on behalf of Helen Cunningham Helen Cunningham in Galway, Ireland 03/12/2009 Artisan Restaurant is a great new restaurant in Galway. We stumbled across it by mistake and it was the highlight of our stay. They had lots of seafood with all fresh, local produdce including lots of organic options. The staff were super friendly and gave us some great tips for the rest of our stay in town. Cody Moore in Melbourne, Vi Australia 01/07/2009