Italy 2012 Guidebook
Favorite discoveries or tips:
Rick Steves Italy 2011 page 906 Thank you Rick for recommending Carmello Monetti for our trip to Ravello. Our tour director had suggested another guide who was going to cost almost twice as much but we decided to call Carmello, especially since you had given his contact info it was so easy. You described him perfectly. Since our last name is Pantalione, we explained we wanted to visit the blood relic of St Pantelione. He made sure we were at the church 1/2 hour before the noon closing and he got the priest to unlock the altar gates and let us behind the altar for a close up look at the holy blood relic. This was an awesone experience for my husband and I. On the way there from Sorrento and on the way back we stopped and he showed us the beautiful sights of Positano and Amalfi. He is a kind, fun loving man who seems to love what he does and knows the history of the area and wants to share it. It was the best day of our 13 day trip and a lot of that was due to Carmello's wonderful personality. This was the first of your travel books that we used but I will never travel again without one. Michael and Therese Pantalione
therese pantalione in vineland, nj USA 01/11/2012
The best tip I have is to notify your credit card company that you will be out of the country. I did and the visa fraud unit was able to detect illegal activity. In Verona someone made a copy of my credit card and swiped at a best buy, etc in the states - visa quickly caught it and froze my account. Whicvh brings me to a second point always have a backup card and I would advise use cash instead of credit for small merchants purchases, etc.
jamie fields in detroit, mi USA 01/05/2012
When in Florence and needing tourist information, seek out Sonya C. We enlisted her help on three separate occasions and she was exceedingly helpful. She seems to primarily work at the TI located across the street from the Santa Maria Novella train station, but also works at the main TI in Florence. She goes above and beyond what I would expect of any TI agent. Trattoria la Burrasca and Nerbone in the Market were wonderful places to eat and enjoy their house wine.
Steve in San Jose, CA USA 01/01/2012
Be extremely careful when train pulls up in Naples. Pickpockets open the backpacks as you wait to board train after the doors open.
Jack Hay in White Plains, Md USA 12/22/2011
RS Italy mentions Salerno just as a place to change buses. This is a seriously underrated city. Big enough to be interesting but small enough to be manageable, with a very nice medieval center, interesting cathedral, good passegiatta scene and seaside promenade. Some very good restaurants (Il Cenacolo across from cathedral and Pinocchio on seafront recommended). Virtually no tourists. As a transportation hub, it's an ideal location to daytrip to Naples/Pompeii/Herculaneum, Paestum, or Amalfi. Not quite as picture-postcard pretty as Sorrento or Amalfi coast towns, but much better value and authentic Italian atmosphere as a base city for this region, in my opinion.
Phil in Washington, DC USA 12/20/2011
I recently traveled to Italy and in which I had a 4 day stay at Paella's Residence. This bed and breakfast was the greatest B and B I have ever been .. The rooms were spacious and beautifully decorated and the hostess and host were the greatest renter of all of my 3 vacation trips to Europe. The hostess Graciella, was so knowledgeabe about Florence and gave up hints of where to eat away from the touristy places. The home was 1500 years old and in ment condition. If you a looking for a great night sleep and a wonderful breakfast wih cappicino you should plan to stay at Panella's Residence Via Pergola in Florence, Italy. I could have enjoyed my entire 2 week vacation in Florence as the Arts were beautiful and so full of history but mainly because I really loved this Bed and Breakfast. The host and hostess made you feel like you were a part of her family. She discussed a typical day that she spends in the city. Just the most delightful couple and I would return there at any time. Thanks you Gracella and Joe for making my stay in Florence one of, if not the best, places to stay. Book early as I am sure the word is speading on this B and B.
jenell Griffith in mobile, Al USA 12/02/2011
I recently traveled to Italy and in which I had a 4 day stay at Paella's Residence. This bed and breakfast was the greatest B and B I have ever been .. The rooms were spacious and beautifully decorated and the hostess and host were the greatest renter of all of my 3 vacation trips to Europe. The hostess Graciella, was so knowledgeabe about Florence and gave up hints of where to eat away from the touristy places. The home was 1500 years old and in ment condition. If you a looking for a great night sleep and a wonderful breakfast wih cappicino you should plan to stay at Panella's Residence Via Pergola in Florence, Italy. I could have enjoyed my entire 2 week vacation in Florence as the Arts were beautiful and so full of history but mainly because I really loved this Bed and Breakfast. The host and hostess made you feel like you were a part of her family. She discussed a typical day that she spends in the city. Just the most delightful couple and I would return there at any time. Thanks you Gracella and Joe for making my stay in Florence one of, if not the best, places to stay. Book early as I am sure the word is speading on this B and B.
jenell Griffith in mobile, Al USA 12/02/2011
Podere Cunina, a beautiful agriturismo near Buonconvento and Montalcino in Tuscany. The apartments are lovely and it is only 30 minutes from Siena. Taste Tuscany near Buonconvento/Montalcino - Lesley Smith, the owner/tour guide, offers various personalized cooking classes, and wine/farm tours. We booked her for two days for a cooking class, and a Chianti wine tour.
Karen in Winnipeg, MB Canada 11/27/2011
San Gimignano was a great place, unlike the guidebook recommendation -- early November was our time to be there and the town, itself, was beautiful and the pace of business was slow and easy -- we shopped and ate and enjoyed ourselves
Judith DeJoy in Athens, GA USA 11/21/2011
San Gimignano was a great place, unlike the guidebook recommendation -- early November was our time to be there and the town, itself, was beautiful and the pace of business was slow and easy -- we shopped and ate and enjoyed ourselves
Judith DeJoy in Athens, GA USA 11/21/2011
Ravenna Guide Claudia Frasinetti was great. We hired her for a whole day tour of the main sights in Ravenna and she was fabulous and made everything very interesting, we learnt a lot.
Marina in Washington, DC USA 11/16/2011
With the RS guide book we had a wonderful 3weeks in Italy. We were 3 adults from South Africa-yes we do speak English!! And I was very lucky to find RS on the internet-it was like having our personal tour guide with us. The 3 times we did not follow his restaurant recommendations we got stuck in tourist traps! After we learned our lesson we used just the book! Parking directions was so good we did not get lost once. And hopefully also no fines in the post. I downloaded the book onto my Kindle and took that with me EVERYWHERE. Thank you so much also for the audio guides. We used them in Pompei,Rome,Venice,Florence and Tuscanny and it was good,full of humor and we could understand everything.W also used passes a few places and it was well worth it.
Jolanda Terhoeven in Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA 11/07/2011
Roma Sparita Ristorante in Trastevere Rome for the most amazing cacio e pepe pasta.
John Osgood in New York, NY USA 11/01/2011
Ladies, watch your purse at the Termini in Rome -- handsome Italian men will brush up against you and politely exuse the inconvenience they cause while they try to unzip your purse. Luckily, the travel bag I used had a two-way zipper which I kept pulled to the front so he was unsuccessful.
Pat in Middletown, DE USA 10/31/2011
Massimo at Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre in Vernazza can make you a panini to take away if he's not too busy. (Best panini I've EVER had!) Try their hot chocolate...like sweet, wholesome, gooey melted chocolate (I'll have to show you the photo.)
Cortona - Best way to enjoy this town is to totally get yourself lost in the narrow alleyways where there are discoveries abound. It's small enough that getting lost is impossible. One recommendation: There is a great route that runs east from Piazza Girabaldi, past Convento delle Doverelle along the ancient wall, and eventually meeting Via Crucis di G. Severini which is an uphill ramp that leads you to Santa Margherita. Along this route are mosaics of Christ's life based on paintings (or reverse) by G. Severini. I'm not Christian, but I found them to be powerful, though they are nothing but simple and subtle. We circumnavigated the town clockwise, asking locals directions as we went along. That in itself was an unforgettable experience.
Firenze in mid October was wall-to-wall people with hundreds of tour groups. The Galileo Museum was a sanctuary from all the madness. We bought a panini at the Central Market in the morning and ate it at a small quite park south of the Arno, where we only saw a few locals, pigeons and a cat.
Kay Ishii in Renton, WA USA 10/30/2011
We had a guide in Sorrento, Italy that was excellent and I would recommend him to anyone visiting that region. He provided us with some very unique experiences and we had a wonderful time. He is rather pricey but we felt he was well worth it. His name is Gianluca d'Esposito, phone: 0039-339.5255774. He has a nice van that can accomodate up to 7 passengers and has intimate knowledge of Sorrento and the entire region. We had private tours of a buffalo mozzarella farm, a vineyard, wonderful meals at restaurants run by friends of his, and many fantastic sites along the Amalfi Coast and around Paestum. He came to our attention through my niece who studied architecture in Sorrento for 4 months earlier this year. Gianluca is just starting out in his private guide business and I hope you guys will look into him as a possible guide to recommend in your books. I know he has a website but I seem to have misplaced his address. Sorry. On other subjects, our meal at the Inn Bufalito was absolutely outstanding and we thank you for the recommendation. It made a perfect ending to our day after our visit to the buffalo mozzarella farm.
Julie Roehl in Toledo, OH USA 10/20/2011
Cinque Terre
Lee Bruning in Hayward, CA USA 10/10/2011
While in Venice, we bought a Chorus pass which allowed us to tour any one of 16 churches for 10 euros. This included the awesome Frari Church. For those who enjoy seeing great art in a church setting, this was an excellent value as most of the churches charge a 3 euro admission. We had the Italy guidebook and did not see this mentioned in it; perhaps you have it in the Venice guidebook.
Meg Ubel in St. Paul, MN USA 10/09/2011
As we did in 2007, I prefer using the shared shuttle transport from Da Vinci Rome airport to hotel. I have never waited more than 15 mins for a ride. The "booth" is located inside the terminal on the taxi level.
Jodi Sanders in Sun Valley, ID USA 10/06/2011
Your book was invaluable on our trip to Italy. Passing the long lines at the Vatican Museum we felt like we had a fast pass at Disneyland. Definitely make reservations at the sites recommended. Wear a money belt. We went with another couple and he had his passport stolen out of his snapped front shorts pocket. They ended up staying an extra night to get a temporary replacement. Learn a little of the language. The people are much friendlier when you try to communicate with them in their own language. And it's fun. When a gentleman behind me asked, "scusi, scende?" on the vaporetto in Venice and I knew he wanted to know if I was getting off at the next stop, I was thrilled to be able to say, "si", just like a real native! The only advice we didn't follow was to have some down time. We were so excited to see all the sights that we walked our tushes off. My feet were swollen most of the trip and for three days after we got back. Next trip, we plan to have more time just to breathe in the air of Italy. Gracie, Rick!
Terri in Buckley, WA USA 10/05/2011
We were stranded in Cortona late on a Sunday afternoon. Please warn your loyal readers that taxis are virtually unattainable on Sunday afternoon and to prearrange driver. Our hosts at our villa saved us by sending a driver. We stayed at a WONDERFUL place outside of Cortonna, LaMucchia Villa Suites, www.hometuscany.com...check it out.
Marianne Ferguson in Auburn, n USA 10/04/2011
Alma Civita in Civita di Bagnoregio. Run by Sandro and family, it opened just this summer. The food, cooked by Sandro's wife, Maria, is delicious. They also have two beautiful rooms for overnight guests.
Mo in Belleuve, WA USA 10/02/2011
Everything was wonderful! Followed your recommendations and out trip throughout Italy was amazing!
Kelly Moffa in Irvine, CA USA 10/01/2011
Believe it or not Rick Steves Travel Guide was my best discovery because it unlocked a world of great information that alloweed me to see everything that I wanted to in the short time that I was in Italy. The book is exceptional!
Laura Lee Crosetti in Putnam, CT USA 09/30/2011
La Morra (Barolo country). the Art Suites (a tiny B&B run by the owners of Rocche Costamagna winery) is fabulous, with incredibly helpful Allesandro and his staff. Also the Agriturismo Bortolino in Volta Mantovana (north of Mantua) and the Hotel Visconti (very near Malpensa airport) are excellent. Mantova
Jack in Philadelphia, PA USA 09/28/2011
Avignonesi Winery Tour with lunch at their pavilion-The Common Table. www.avignonesi.it/eng-tav-com.htm
Barbara James in Beaufort , SC USA 09/25/2011
Wine-dark house rester aunt in positano was fabulous, the owner was our waiter, shared a recipe with us, food was great, very reasonably priced, especially for positano, almost all outdoor seating, quiet little side street
Tony torra in Reading, Ma USA 09/25/2011
Great time in Rome,Florence, Hill Towns. Family with two teenagers. Guides spot on. May-June 2011
Cynthia Thomson in Tucson, AZ USA 09/15/2011
Monterosso in Cinque Terre and Lake Como (Varenna)
Liza in Syracuse, NY USA 09/05/2011
Amici degli Uffizi membership -- bought online, arrived with cards in hand and skipped to the front of the Uffizi and Accademia lines without needing reservations. Great value.
K in Rizzo, Va USA 08/23/2011
Inpiazzadellasignoria in Firenze was a great place to stay. Bargello Museum was the best find. Bernardo Osteria Risto in Pisa was fabulous. It is a newer place and not yet in your book.
Pat Geddes in Berthoud, CO USA 08/16/2011
We learned not to over tip. We met some locals on a street and started talking about tipping. They told us to make sure and thank the waiter and tell them what a great time we had. When we did that we ended up being treated to free lemoncello and lots of hugs and requests to return.
Angel in Katy, TX USA 07/27/2011
The restaurants and off the beaten path suggestions really made our trip memorable. Your podcast for the Colosseum brought the place to life. We were in Italy for 2 1/2 weeks in May and did not have to wait in line for anything...well maybe geleto.
Joe and Lila Klein in Richmond, MN USA 07/26/2011
We found it helpful to bring Shout and Chlorox wipes as we were traveling for two weeks and needed to keep our clothes free of stains and wipe down train trays and other areas. The only thing we DID NOT take from your packing suggestions was a hand towel and I cannot tell you how many times we wish we had it. In Italy, it would be good to know which churches had active liturgies or masses and which were just museums. We generally sought out a chuch for daily mass. I received your backpack as a Father's Day gift and it was invaluable on the trip -- lots of room, not too big and could be carried easily. Please note it is very difficult to buy bus tickets in Rome on Sunday as the tobacco stores and rairway stations are closed. We had to take cabs which actually turned out fine. We agree that taking cabs in Rome is well worth the investment and saving of time. When giving directions be more specific about what "down" or "up' means. Down could be underneath a building or down the street. We visited Italy for ten days after a business trip in Geneva. The special occassion was our 40th wedding anniversay. My wife's parents and oldest sister were born in Italy. she had been to Italy 20 years ago but this was my first trip. We are in our early 60's and traveled over 600 miles via trains. We did the trip on our own with your help. Thank you for a life-long memory.
John and Elyse O'Kane in Stone Mountain, GA USA 07/24/2011
Orvieto restaurant:hosteria nonna melia--great lemon pasta and atmosphere! Cortona:bar 500, great restaurant
Toey in Houston, Tx USA 07/22/2011
Rome was wonderful!! Hotel Gerber great! Cristina gniachi(guide) a delight!!!!
Debbie in Benton, Ky USA 07/20/2011
My husband & I discovered a new scam in Rome this morning. A man in a car called us from the sidewalk and wanted to know if we spoke English. He was well-dressed and asked if we knew how to get to the Vatican as he was lost. He had map in hand and said that he was a representative from Versace and was attending some function to do with fashion. He went on to say that he was from Paris and seemed very interested in hand-shaking. My husband gave him directions & he presented me with a handbag wrapped in plastic and insisted that it was worth 900 euros and I had to promise not to sell it. Then, the scam....he asked for gas money. He wanted 20 euros and refused the 5 euros my husband had offered. He kept insisting that we had more money. I gave him back his bag & my husband told him that he was a scam artist. We walked away & started going over what had happened. He didn't have a French accent, his car was not out of gas (my husband could see the gas gauge) & he switched his story from being a rep for Versace to L'Oreal. So annoying!
Deborah Casselman in Forest Hills, NY USA 07/20/2011
Hotel Verona in Rome - We are a family of four and all of the moderately priced hotels listed in the book with quad rooms available were booked. So we stayed at this hotel. Great location (near Santa Maria Maggiore church), quiet on the fifth floor, helpful staff, great breakfast and clean.
D Mitchell in Elk Grove, CA USA 07/12/2011
THIS WAS QUITE AN ADVENTURE FOR ME AS I AM A 68 YEAR OLD LADY WHO " BACK-PACKED" THRU ITALY. I USED YOUR BOOK EXCLUSIVLY, I FELT I COULD QUOTE IT ABOUT WORD FOR WORD BY THE TIME I LEFT. MY TRIP WAS FROM THE 17TH OF MAY TO JUNE 3RD. ROME, ORVIETO,ASSISI,VENICE,PADUA,VERONA,CINQUE TERRE,FLORENCE, SIENA AND BACK TO ROME. I MISSED RAVENNA DUE TO A REGIONAL TRAIN STRIKE IN ASSISI. THANK YOU...YOUR BOOK GAVE ME THE CONFIDENCE TO TAKE THIS AMAZING TRIP.
SANDI KELLY in SARASOTA, FL USA 07/10/2011
We used Cristina Giannicchime as was recommended through your guide book for tours in Rome. Not only was Cristina a amazing historian but was a delight of a person to spend time with. She toured our family of 5 through the Colosseum and Forum on one afternoon and through the Vatican the following morning. This was my 3rd visit to Rome but the first for my family. I had already been on tours of both places twice..thinking I would not get anything out of her tour, but she had a way of pointing out so many other interesting things the other tour guides never did, that it was like a whole new adventure. She was our best guide in out 3 week stay traveling throughout Italy!
Bobbi Koloany in Pittsburgh, PA USA 07/01/2011
Venice: For those who love Venice, we highly recommend Donna Leon's 20-novel mystery series starring police detective Guido Brunetti. You'll love them, and the descriptions of Venice are very precise and enticing. There's even a guidebook to Brunetti's Venice, with many walking tours. We were able cover a couple of them on our recent visit.
Ron in DeWitt, MI USA 06/30/2011
Not sure if I have missed the info in the book, but here is the only one thing that i would like to add in the book: I used Book for italy and the first thing i got stuck was to figure out where the street names are . Unlike US, they have street names on the building walla on the corners.I feel this should be added.
Gaurav Agarwal in Tyngsboro, MA USA 06/28/2011
OUr experience with Cristina was absolutely fantastic. We brought a group of 19 to Italy and Cris provided our private tours for three days in Rome. Her knowledge was exceptional and her interaction with our group waswonderful. We highly recommend Cris to anyone traveling in Italy! Your recommendation of Cris as well as other guides that we used on our recent trip to Europe incuding Athens, Ephesus, Istanbul and Sicily were also fantiasic experiences with the guides recommended in your books.
William Myers in Jacksonville, FL USA 06/28/2011
We stayed in an apartment in Rome and loved it (6 nights.) It would be helpful if the guide book offered some apartment rental web sites. We liked sleepinitaly and friendlyrentals. Their sites were easy to use. Flipkey was too hard to search.
Lynette Taylor in Brooksville, FL USA 06/24/2011
Any Grom gelateria is worth going out of the way to find. Many if not most Italians consider it be best in the country, and with good reason. It strikes me as the Ben & Jerry's of Italy. :-)
Michael in Seattle, WA USA 06/22/2011
Driverinrome tours for the Amalfi coast, Florence and Rome were outstanding. The guides/drivers were exceptionally friendly, informative, cooperative and a real joy to travel with. Outstanding!!!
Joe Jahraus in Broken Arrow, OK USA 06/16/2011
I would like to recommend Lulu Rooms & Apartments (Vernazza, Italy). website: http://www.lulurooms-vernazza.com phone number: 338 8223202 email: egidioverduschi@libero.it
Joel Pepin in Edmonton, Ab Canada 06/09/2011
Ciobar hot chocolate.......yum! Vivaldi concerts by Interpreti Veneziani at Chiesa di San Vidal (near Accademia Bridge).
Liz Santos in Seattle, WA USA 06/06/2011
Suggested Guidebook Adds:
Bologna: centro, main piazza, and San Lucca basilica outside of town.
The Adriatic Coast: Senegallia on the coast with a brief detour into contemporary hills above the Adriatic just to get a brief feel for the easterners of Italy.
More about both in a moment.
A word about the kind of tourist I am: Like everyone I have the goal of having a great trip. Attaining two objectives results in a great trip for me.
One is to experience the wonders of another country; this is what Rick's guidebooks are particularly good at mapping me to.
My second objective is to see how the bulk of a country's people really live and work and shop and consume in various regions; this latter part attracts me to all the humdrum things that may bore others. I want to know about their super markets, chain stores, their appliance brands, fast foods, their packaged foods as well as their fresh foods, their cars and scooters, their bulk wines pulled out of aluminum tanks, as well as their good bottled vintages, their new boats (not just their quaint old ones), their books in their popular bookstores, their industries, their agriculture, etc.
In short, I don't just want to know about Italy's beauty and history and ruins and best cuisines. I want to know about how Italians live today (both well and poorly) and about their politics and bureaucracies and about the trials and tribulations and joys of daily life. I like going to the post office once a trip just to see just how slow an Italian post office can be. What Italians endure at the post office reveals an enormous amount about them.
Guilty pleasure 1: I can get a huge kick in Italy just walking around a parking lot and looking at the bewildering array of brands and types of cars, scooters, and bicycles I find. I love these toys in America and I love them even more in Italy.
I am also fascinated by what foods Italians embrace pre-packaged (lots more than, say, 15 years ago) and which they still want fresh. I want to know whether Italians try all the crazy home espresso makers in Marco Polo, or if a lot of them still use a little Bialetti? Do they all drink espresso they buy at the local store, or do they order it on line and delivered from Guglielmo Bar 5 Star down south in Calabria, or where ever? What do they eat at home, versus what do they eat at restaurants? How do the various regions of the country interact and influence each other, resent or like each other? Do they have north-south and east-west tensions, like the USA does? Or are they more homogeneous, or less? Heck, I even want to see their tacky new developments, and their now aging and increasingly shabby strip retail developments from the last 20 years around their autostradas.
Another guilty pleasure: I am fascinated by road side food in Italy. Even Autogrills on the autostradas fascinate me, because I can see so many Italians acting as they do when travelling. How different they are from Americans on the road in America in some ways, how similar in others!
But of course I like the non chain joints better and the more idiosyncratic the better. I stopped at a road side place called Cafe Sandy on the E78 somewhere near Civitta Paganico, descending between Greve di Chianti, Tuscany, to Grosetto in route to an off guidebook beach town called San Marinella, south of Civittavechia. The Cafe Sandy is sublime in a great dives kind of way. It is idiosyncratic even for Italy. You walk in buy a salami sandwich and a drink, then go out and sit under a thatched roof covered patio in a woodsy road side setting that is so peaceful that even peripatetic Italian businessmen simply sit and relax and seem to enter the Italian equivalent of a zen state. It is stunning to see these Italians who will soon be riding bumpers and passing in curving tunnels at a 140 kilometers per hour blissfully relaxing in the middle of no where.
Guilty pleasure number three: I make a mental inventory of all the different kinds of bathroom fixtures in every country I visit. I am firmly convinced that the form languages of toilets, bidets (or their absense) and sink fixtures are the rosetta stones of most cultures.
I am endlessly curious about even the most trivial things in any country I visit, and, so, from the moment I land, to the moment I take off, I am never bored. Frankly, in between the trivia, I take in the sites.
Sometimes I even long to be bored, but I just can't be. I am mildly ashamed that I cannot go to a foreign country and relax (well, Villa Barone in Panzano di Chianti Tuscany relaxed me, but that was a rare exception).
In fact, as I've already alluded, the most boring places to other travellers can be treasure troves of the fascinating minutia of modern life in Italy that I thrive on discovering.
Still, I know most others are not seeking Post Docs in Italian Cultural Trivial Pursuit, as I am, so my recommended places to go, for Rick to add to the guidebook, are places that I think others would find to be Steves-grade offerings, places I am kind of surprised Rick has not included, though wise as he and his staff are, they likely have their reasons.
Next, one more bit of prologue (there is more prologue here than logue) before discussing the adds; this is a remark about how we used the guide book differently this trip.
Two previous trips have involved sticking closely to the guide book itineraries. This 3-week trip we felt comfortable enough in Italy to alternate between three days on the guide book and three days off the guide book, then repeat.
Off the guide book, we did Bologna/Modena/Maranello one stretch, and the Adriatic coast between Foggia and Rimini, another stretch.
Alternating was good. Three days on the guide book filled us with Steves-grade sites, food and rest. Three days off confronted us with Italy unfiltered and with hits and misses and a sense of unchartered discovery--which brings a sense of self-empowerment, as well as both good and bad discoveries. After three days off, it felt good to go three days back on the guidebook knowing we would be in good hands and get our bearings again. Then back off for more unfiltered discovery. Since my wife spoke some Italian, going off guide book was mostly a joy. If you don't have anyone that speaks the language, stay on the guide book. While it is true that Italy is a country you can get by in without speaking the language (they adroitly and compassionately move you on better than some countries do when you know the language), all you do off guidebook and without language is just get by, and that's not enough fun for the cost of such a trip IMHO.
Next, a remark about experiencing places off the guidebook: We found the regions outside Rick's guidebook of Italy to be largely untravelled by Americans in late April/early May. We found these parts of Italy not to be very tourist friendly in the sense of being used to tourists and catering to them. All of the areas the guide books take one to appear to us to be in regions, or in destinations of Italy, where Italy wants tourism, be it through the front door, or Rick's backdoor.
As with any country, Italy has other areas where a lot of work is being done and a lot of heavy lifting goes on and where things just aren't very glamorous, or they are places where Italians themselves go to vacation, and where they just seem to want to go to get away from all of the foreign tourists that much of Italy has had to cater to since WWII in order to make ends meet. I have lived in San Francisco and Santa Barbara and coastal Oregon, so I am sympathetic to locals' fatigue and love/hate relationship with tourits. But these sorts of places--these tourist destinations for Italians-are among the places I want to see in order to understand Italy as a culture and country, and not just as a series of wondrous sites (which is okay too, if that's what you like).
In these off-the-guidebook regions, the people vary widely in their degree of friendliness and in their levels of acceptance of outsiders, just as they do back home in the states. You get treated differently in Disneyland than in Appalachia. If I want to get to know Italy the way I want to know Italy, I have to go to these sometimes unwelcoming areas. And I have to be as nice and polite as possible, and smile, be careful, and expect some occassional cold shoulders, rip-offs, infrequent scorn, even some possibly threatening behavior, and press on. But what I always learn is that Italians are like people everywhere, only more so. :-)
I always find some helpful cheerful Italians, it just may take a few more unpleasant encounters before I do in some of the off-guidebook locations.
Now back to my recommendations of Bologna and the Adriatic coast.
Why do I recommend Bologna? Because...
It has a thriving centro and the main piazza is one of the great public spaces in Italy, if you understand its history and architecture, and if you are willing to accept a little less pretty-ness and more brawniness.
Bologna, as I had it explained to me by an Italian acquaintance that lives there, is the central commercial hub of Italy, the town that throughout history has been the fulcrum between north and south in Italy, as well as east and west. It is the town that one had to control to control all of Italy, not just half of it. It is a pinch point in distribution in all directions. It is the interface and point between the Mediterranean culture of the south and whatever you want to call Italy from Rome on north.
Long ago, I am told, the Pope built an enormous palace/fortress that forms one side of the main piazza. It was a place the Pope came to, when he wanted to get out of Rome, and occassionally when he had to get out of Rome. This structure seems one of the most under-visited structures of apparently great historical significance in all of Italy IMHO.
Barely off the other side of the main piazza, a local showed me a building that is supposedly the original stock market building of Bologna that supposedly started operating around 1200 AD (stock market is a very loose modern term for referring to the medieval equivalent of a place where merchants, traders and craftsmen concentrated to work out deals with bidding.) My acquaintance, whose scholarship I cannot vouch for, said it was probably one of the oldest such facilities, maybe the oldest, of its kind in Italy. I leave it to Rick and his tireless assistants to verify, or refute this claim. :-)
The main piazza is imposing, rather than beautiful, but it is really imposing. And on one side of the main piazza is a small monument of several hundred, maybe several thousand tiny, black and white photos of members of the Italian Resistance movement in WWII that were rounded up and slaughtered on that spot by Nazis evacuating the city, as the Allied army prepared to enter the city but a few blocks away. It is one of the most moving, and little known monuments I have seen in all of Europe. It is so stark and yet so human.
Bologna seems to me the Chicago of Italy--a city of big shoulders--a place were all regions and forces of north and south and east and west converge to "get things done." It feels like a tough town, but a town with great character persisting to this day. A doctor I met there said Bologna probably has Italy's best hospitals and most advanced medical services and research. Bologna's universities are reputedly exceptional. There was a political rally and one day the military was securing the main piazza. Another day there was none. I had the best ice cream I have had in Italy just off the main piazza. Good restaurants were every where, the acquaintance said, and his wife proved to be a fabulous cook, too. If you love visiting great commercial cities with important scientific, commercial, historical and geopolitical significance, as I do, and if you care as much about understanding cities that join a country together, as much as you care about understanding the more famous cities that have ruled a country, then Bologna, the great joiner of Italy, merits a night and a day. And Bolognese cooking matters.
And outside Bologna is its main basilica: San Lucca. It is an amazing building. It is the most beautifully sited, and most unique basilica architecturally that I have seen in Italy, outside of those in Venice built on pilings and man made islands. This one is cited on a hill top overlooking Bologna but a goodly distance away.
Unlike the great basilicas from Rome north, which are tour de force amalgamations of gothic, byzantine, and Italian Renaissance attributes, San Lucca's architecture refers back to a more purely Greco-Roman tradition. It is on a hilltop outside of town, not in town; this alone makes it quite distinct from most of the great basilicas associated with major Italian cities. It uses strictly Roman arches. Elegance and purity of form language and massing, plus monochromatic use of color characterize it, rather than the amalgams of ornate complexity and contradiction found at so many other great basilicas of Italy. San Lucca also has an amazing approach road that is flanked on one side by a seemingly endless wall of Romanesque arches that continue a long, long way up to finally join the basilica. Each arch reputedly represents a person that has fought and died in long-ago wars defending the basilica and Bologna. The combination of this wall of arches, the unusually greco-roman basilica architecture, and the impressive view from the hilltop, made this one of my most memorable visits to a church of any kind in Italy. Frankly, it is hard to believe it exists in Italy until you actually see it. And though I cannot prove it, I believe its uniqueness of siting, and architecture and its wall, hint at the profoundness of the difference between Bologna and the great city states of Italy that it has long acted as the articulating geopolitical joint among.
Bologna seems Italy's Chicago. Italy's city with Big Shoulders between the coasts. Italy's geostrategic, industrial and commercial and transportation center.
Bologna isn't all prettied up, but it is all Italian and I suspect that to truly understand the corporate oligarchy that now seems to operate the nominally republican apparatus of Italy, one would do well to understand Bologna. Bologna isn't full of American tourists in April/May, and probably never is. American car and motorcycle magazine journalists probably go frequently, because Ducati motorcycles are made in Bologna and Ferrari is in Maranello on the outskirts of nearby Modena. American businessmen that import machinery from Bologna probably go. But Bologna seems off the American tourist radar.
Bologna is a living, breathing, Italian commercial center with a lot of history and a formidable main piazza.
Bologna ought to be in the guidebook.
Now about the Adriatic. I can see why Rick does not include it. If you are looking for the kind of beauty that impressionists moved to Italy to paint, it is not on the Adriatic. The beach town hotels are mostly built since the 60s-70s and could be located most anywhere in the USA. An inn keeper in Sorrento tactfully dissed the Adriatic, saying, well, its sort of the Miami Beach of Italy, then shook his head. And down along the coast line that is pretty much as it is, especially a place like Rimini.
But here is the thing: the Florida (and SoCal) coast analogy holds in more ways than Miami. There are also lesser beach towns, sleepier beach towns, still kind of 70s aging and a bit beach town tacky, but all the same they are important aspects of contemporary Italy, and places where persons from Rome, and other major Italian cities go when the beastly heat of Italian summer arrives (and persons that go to Rome and Florence in summer need their heads examined).
The point is that 60s and 70s beach towns filtered through a contemporary Italian spin and then connected with ancient centros in their midst are a great, weird, idiosyncratic slice of Italy. Not for everyone, maybe, but if you really want to get to know Italy, you've got to go to the Adriatic. For one thing Italy, skinny as it is, really does have an east coast and west coast difference. The Adriatic coast faces the Balkans and the culture of the Adriatic coast seems much more Balkan, in good ways and in bad, than those stylin' west coast slickies. :-)
The Adriatic is not achingly, exquisitely beautiful as a Positano/Sorrento region, or the Italian Riviera, are. But it is so, so, so Italian once you get into it. If you really like Italy, as opposed to just liking Italy's most beautiful sites, then the Adriatic is a must visit. But it doesn't take a lot of days to soak up what there is to absorb.
I loved how agricultural the Adriatic is from Foggia north to Rimini. Beautiful, beautiful agriculture. It is pretty thinly populated for Italy, also. And the towns up on the hills inland are, umm, shall we say, provincial. In most of the towns, when you stop for directions, you are viewed almost as an alien from another planet, much as you might be in Appalachia, or southwestern Oregon. And I liked discovering this aspect of Italy. It is not that the people are terribly unfriendly, or anti-American. They just don't see many outsiders and don't seem to want to see many outsiders and have almost forgotten there are outsiders. And yet they too are decisively Italian in the un-federated, non-nation state sense of the term.
We stayed in Senegallia well south of Rimini. On entry, it was a very tacky beach town out of season. And when we got to the beach front property, it included lots of concrete modern hotels and so on, but the place really grew on me. And what was so fun was that in the midst of all this Italian old modern, and post modern, and strip mall development, etc, was this terrific little centro buried inside of all of it. Our hotel was on the beach and was one of the most eccentrically aging old modern, Felliniesque concrete hotels with circular turrets you will ever see. Utterly bizarre "space age" modernist bathrooms now aging and looking like a Dwell retro study of a borderline acceptable mid century modern designer's work. The single floor semicircular room we had had three different elevations of flooring! Totally funky. I just loved it as I love the mid century modern revival in the states too, alienating warts and all of the style. And the hotel is just as quirky as any hotel in Sorrento. The front desk is up a flight of stairs. The dining room is glassed in with a 60-70s vintage chandelier and yet a great, great little breakfast spread with homemade rolls and bread was had. The place was a hoot and the manager was friendly and fascinated by Americans coming to Senegallia of all places. His trade is mostly Romans and Florentines and mostly from June to September.
Would I give up my Rick Steves 2011 guidebook? Are you flippin' crazy? :-)
I want the best of Italy through the backdoor that Rick offers "and" the unfiltered contemporary Italy in all its uneven, juxtaposed, surprising, unsettling, enchanting, infuriating wonder.
Sorry I took so long, but travel lifted me out of my culture and routines and let me think and feel a little and so I shared it.
D.C. Wilson in Bandon, OR USA 06/02/2011
1. A friend advised us to take several wash cloths on our recent trip to Italy as they are not available at hotels. I suggest the same. 2. The trains are safe, clean and not expensive! Buy your tickets as you travel at the train station. We traveled form Rome to Venice, to Varnazza, and back to Rome with no issues. BE SURE TO STAMP YOUR TICKETS (VALIDATE) IN THE YELLOW BOXES AT THE STATION OR YOU WILL BE FINED (UP TO 100 EUROS IN ROME). 3. I planned a 10 day Intenary (hour by hour) using Rick Steves' Guidebook on Italy. I could not have had such a wonderful and fact filled trip without it! (As he states, you'll get out of it what you put into the planning). 4. Take a taxi to the Tower in Pisa (6 euros) to and back to the train station - no hassles or pickpockets! 5. We shipped several packages back without any problems (one was worth $675).
Larry Linemann in Lexington, SC USA 06/01/2011
David Gelateria Via Marziale, 19 Sorrento, Italy 081 807 3649 Gelateriadavid@yahoo.it
Teresa Curran in Louisville, KY USA 05/31/2011
Rome: Francesa Carusa. Cannot praise her highly enough. We are history buffs on our 4 th trip to Rome. We went to Ostia Antica and learned so much from her while having a great time. If you like to see art in situ, don't miss the Church of Saint Prassede which Rick mentions in the paragraph about Santa Maria Maggiore. Saint Prassede is much smaller and easier to appreciate. Orvieta: We were so glad we stayed here ( at highly recommended Hotel Duomo) rather than in Civita. We loved seeing the Duomo, which is wonderful, in the evening as well as during the day. Enjoyed the drive to Civeta (not always well signed - we got lost regularly, and aren't sure if that was in spite of, or because of, the GPS.the regular route seemed more than scenic and winding enough. We we followed the directions to go to Lubriano first, but felt that proved to be unnecessary, as the best view of Civita is the one you get as you approach on foot. Rick's tip for parking under the bridge was great. Ravenna: Loved Basilica di San Vitale and Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo best, but everything was well worth seeing and we were so glad we came. binoculars helpful some places. Stayed at M Club Delux B&B which is highly recommend. Would have liked warning that there is a steep flight of stairs to get into the hotel, and there is not always someone around to carry the bags. Venice: Loved Novecento Hotel. Rooms were beautiful, service excellent, and location perfect for quiet rooms still so centrally located it was easy to get everywhere. While Rick is of course correct that Venice is walkable, locations are closer as the row flies than when you are walking up and down bridges in the heat. We ended up buying a vaparetto pass as we were doing a number of day trips and it didn't make sense to keep retracing our steps to get to the railway station, and were we glad we did. We hopped on and off the vaparetto, and saved our energy to explore the neighborhood we arrived in. We still got lost often. The first day we had to be in Ferrara by noon, so set off before 8. We let 2 vaporettos for Line 1 go by before we realized they were much more frequent than Line 2. We had no problem buying tickets at the station as per Rick's advice. Loved Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio which I found much more accessible than Scuola San Rocco. Also enjoyed the Frari where Rick's audio tour was a big bonus. Went to the Jewish cemetery on the Lido which is unlike any I've ever seen elsewhere with big family mausoleums, and someone named Napoleon after the Emperor who liberated the Jews from ghettos. It is just past the ferry dock. If you walk on the side of the street opposite the water, you will see a locked gate in a brick wall, and this was where residents directed me when I asked for help. Turn back in the direction you came about a quarter of a block to the nearest street that runs away from the water. You will see a flower stand for the Catholic cemetery. walk past it to an arch and you will see a gate with a bell you can ring. I went Sunday morning when it was open anyway and locals were visiting their family graves. I was reading the Garden of the Finzi-Continis, great background for a trip to the area. Padua: Do not miss the Scrovegni Chapel when in the Venice area. We also enjoyed the Pinoteca and the original chapel in the Basilica of St. Anthony.
Marcia Zalev in Toronto, ON Canada 05/29/2011
Mary Weisse mweisse@hughes.net
Mary Weisse in Rapid River, MI USA 05/28/2011
Art Crawford 208-939-3354 acraw@cableone.net
Art Crawford in Eagle, Id USA 05/18/2011
I would strongly recommend to your readers to keep an accurate account of all ATM purchases and receipts. It may help to figure out there statements when they get home in case they were charged incorrectly.
Penney Haas in Belleville, IL USA 05/17/2011
I would like to recommend "Poggio della Volara" near Orvieto in the commune of Montecchio as an addition to your list of places to stay in the book and would also suggest to remove the "Agriturismo Pomonte" as it does not fit the hospitality that one would expect after following your guide book. My family and I have always used your guide book and we are more than happy to blindly use your suggestions therefore surprises such as the Agr Pomonte does not deem fit to be a part of your book.
Elizabeth George in CLES, TN Italy 05/15/2011
I'm only about five days into a 20 day trip... but I wanted to share already. I've got one correction listed below and one thing to share: In regards to the colosseum - Rick mentions that the Roma Pass lets you bypass the line... and for awhile that was all I read... later on he shares that you actually have to stand in line to get in and then you can move to the left to bypass the actual buying of tickets. So my comment is to read all the sections about the site you are going to see don't just skim! :-) oh... and stop and read signs! (that is how I saw with a Roma Pass you can stay left and avoid 100+ people standing in line to buy their tickets
Mitch McCann in Killeen, TX USA 05/09/2011
Yes. We recently returned from Italy and went to Cinque Terre, among other destinations. We found the phrase book particularly helpful.
Nena Montgomery in Redwood City, CA USA 04/27/2011
La Laterna in Sestri Levante, Maybe the best ristorante that we ate at in Italy.
Everett Kincer in San Mateo, CA USA 04/18/2011
Where is info on Sicily?
Nancy desmond in Evanston, il USA 04/09/2011
Forget trying to get a Vat refund unless you depart from of a major airport. We traveled on train between Italy, Austria and Switzerland. After wasting much too much time visiting three offices in Venice where I was told I could get a Vat tax cash refund and then trying in Austria, no one at any of the government offices or the officials at any of the train stations were interested in stamping my refund form. Customs Officials seem to be non-existent at the borders when you travel by train to the countries we visited. I finally stopped by the Swiss Customs Office at the Zurich before we flew home. The customs official told me that since Switzerland was not an EU country he could not stamp the form, but he told me that he hears the same type of complaint that I voiced from travelers every day who shopped in Italy and were unsuccessful in getting their tax form stamped.
Gary Klein in Georgetown, Tx USA 04/06/2011
Albergo Barbara (hotel in Vernazza) should be removed from the list of recommended hotels.
J.Fritz in Olympia, WA USA 04/04/2011
Recently returned from a trip to the Amalfi Coast and took in Pompeii and Erculano. Skip the tour guides anduse Rick's tour of Pompeii. It is detailed enough for a good understanding of how the people lived and the disaster that wiped them from the map. Same for Erculano.
Tony Ambrose in Louisville, KY USA 04/03/2011
My wife and I just returned from a land trip to Italy. We found a great private tour company, A&R Tours at www.tourroma.com. We used them in Rome, Naples and Pompeii, but they do additional areas as well. We are in our late 50's and had a great time with Adrienne and Renato. They tailored the tours to what we wanted to see, took us to great and reasonably priced restaurants and were fun to be with.
They seem like just the kind of guides that your books recommend. We would highly recommend that you check them out and add them. Your description of Naples made it sound very scary, but with Renato (who is from Naples) as our guide, it was wonderful. Renato and Adrienne really took care of us for our four days in Naples.
Chris Kemp in St. Paul, MN USA 03/18/2011
Relais Genius Loci Country Inn is gearing up for its 5th successful season. Come see for yourself what the hype is all about. Enjoy the very essence of Umbria in its authentic charm and while enjoying luxury and charm. Contact us today.
Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna, PG Italy 03/07/2011
Venice - Hotel Ala. What a beautiful place and location! I stay there for a week at the end of July every year. The "special offer" rate is half of what I am willing to spend!
Robert Violette in Bordentown, NJ USA 03/01/2011
To get a 25% discount on using the vaparetto for unlimited use on the prices posted in Rick Steves book for 12/24/36/48/72 hours + 7 day pass go to www.veniceconnected.com and purchase the ticket online more than 7 days prior to using. You receive a PNR number that is converted into a ticket at different locations mentioned on the website.
anne tam in honolulu, hi USA 02/20/2011
Sorrento...wine bar The Garden on Corso Italia...run by very nice couple
Pete Hall in Haddonfield, NJ USA 02/20/2011
Sibillini Mountain Park in Eastern Umbria. This unspoiled, sparsely populated (for Italy!) area has a lot to attract outdoor enthusiasts: hiking, white water rafting, mountain biking, horseback riding, caving, as well as the history and lifestyle we go to Italy for. We stayed in a delightful agriturismo Fonte Antica (www.fonteantica.it) at Campi. The farm has been in the family for 600 years, the farmhouse is a mere 300 years old. The rooms are huge and furnished with massive antiques, but bathrooms are modern. The food, mostly produced on the property, is simply prepared and simply delicious. We were there in October, and topped off our dinner with chestnuts roasted on the open fire in the dining room. The "ancient spring" for which the farm is named is contained by marble slabs salvaged from a Roman temple. Local town Norcia is the birthplace of Saint Benedict and well provided with small family run restaurants and shops selling the local food specialities: lentils, wild boar, truffles and porcini mushrooms.
marian exall in bellingham, WA USA 02/07/2011
I loved having the free downloaded audio guides for the major sites when I was in Rome, Florence, and Venice! Rick's directions and maps were easy to follow and fun to listen too. Unlike some of the boring audio guides that you can pay for there. I had the 2010 Ital guide and I can not say more good things about it! I fell in LOVE with Italy and Rick's tips helped me save tons of time and money. Especially when it came to knowing the reservations needed for certain museums and sites. I would have never known without the guide and since I only had 2 days in each city it was important I stay on track. Thanks Rick for helping me discover Italy!
Marcy in Los Angeles, CA USA 02/03/2011
We have a new suggestion for Riomaggiore. Agostino has a wonderful apartment right on the water! Cleanest place & best view of anywhere we stayed in 3 weeks. 80/night. Great! www.la-scogliera.it/Inglese/index-english.htm
Laura in San Diego, CA USA 01/23/2011
Hey folks...how about a travel guide on Milan or the lake regions around Como?
I enjoy all the existing travel guides!!
Dennis Johansen San Luis obispo, Ca 93401
805-748-4880
Dennis Johansen in San Luis Obispo, , CA USA 12/09/2010
While you discouraged driving in Italy. You have understated the negatives. But other than shouting - DON'T RENT/LEASE A CAR - I don't know how you can get the message across to those like my husband who think those words are for the inexperienced drivers - not him. I biggest expense was parking for the car. I finally figured out who has the right of way - it's the care that is at least 2 inches ahead of the other. There is no need for a rear view mirror. They don't use one. Roads are narrow & often have blind curves & switchbacks. I could go on but will just suggest you don't drive. Take the train or bus, etc.
Barbara in Tampa, Fl USA 12/04/2010
Sorrento - as of June 2010, we were able to buy the ArteCard at the train station (enter the station and go to the convenience store to your right). But our cards wouldn't activate the automatic gate/turnstile that leads to the track. The station agent had us go thru another way.
Packing list - maybe add "battery recharger" to the list. It saves on camera batteries.
Diana Oertel in San Francisco, CA USA 11/12/2010
In Orvieto we found a lovely restaurant, Ristorante La Pergola, Via del Magoni 9b. Just off Via Duomo. Could be included in your list of eating recommendations.
Joan Ofteness in Bellingham, WA USA 11/12/2010
Rome: Our first visit to Rome, and we loved it. Avoided pickpockets by not taking public transit. Either walked or took cabs. Stayed in Ancient Rome which we loved, because we had wide-open spaces for walking, and it wasn't croweded (we were there the first full week of October). Stayed at Hotel Rosetta which was perfect. We agnoized over our lodging decision, and we were happy that we decided to be frugle and stay at the Rosetta. There were nearby markets where we were able to get fresh fruit & yogurt for breakfast in our room when we didn't want to bother going out for breakfast. Thank you for your recommendations.
Garnet Holden in Grass Valley, CA USA 11/11/2010
I found a great back door in Italy, it is a group of villages in Italy called Zeri. It is a remote part of Tuscany but I could envision it added to the best of Italy Village tour or added to the guidebook. There are no tourists in this area. I met a friend on Facebook and he took me there and we had a wonderful time. Zeri has a facebook page. Alum of 2 Rick Steve's tours. Of note is the farms, cheese, lamb, chestnuts and mushrooms and of course the best folks to meet. Thanks
mark in Broomfield, CO USA 11/10/2010
The wing of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples which contains frescoes, mosaics and the secret room is closed for renovation until sometime in 2011.
Randy in Chicago, IL USA 11/09/2010
Thanks for the recommendation on Venicescapes tours with Michael Broderick. We booked a half-day tour and were so happy, we booked a full day tour also. His tours provided perspective and information on history, the arts and culture that made the rest of our stay in Italy even more enjoyable.
Donna Brennan in Chester Springs, PA USA 11/01/2010
In the Italy book, Rick states that buying the Cinque Terre Treno Card is not a good value. True enough. However, one early evening in Manarola, we found the train ticket counter closed and the ticket machine not working. So we hiked down to Riomaggiore (definitely NOT a hardship)to find the ticket counter there closed and the ticket machine not working. We ended up getting on the train without tickets and immediately hunted the conductor down (apparently the fines are large for riding without a ticket). we didn't get fined, but the first thing we did the next day was buy the C.T. Treno Card. that night, in Vernazza, we saw a couple have the same problem - counter closed, ticket machine not working. We told them about our experience and suggested hunting for the conductor like we did. I don't know if it was the the time of year we were there (mid-June) or this is just how train business is handled in the C.T.
Dotty in Carman, OH USA 10/31/2010
I'd like to recommend the addition of a restaurant in Venice that we enjoyed very much. It's called Alla Fonte Pizzeria - Trattoria. It's not too far from Piazza San Marco and is run by a family from Sicily. We didn't ask, but they appeared to be brothers. Here's the contact info from their card: Campo Bandiera e Moro Castello No.3820 30122 Venezia Tel. e Fax 041 5238698
Both the food and service were wonderful and we thought their prices were very reasonable. And they make canoli for dessert. Yum!
(Please note we were using Italy 2010 on our trip, from which we've just returned).
Eileen Hinds in Snohomish, WA USA 10/30/2010
My sister and I loved your books! We would like to suggest that you a wonderful, little restaurant in Pisa, Italy. LaPergOletta is a quiet restaurant with candles and white table cloths and elegant food. My sister had an eggplant dish that was simply beautiful while I enjoyed seafood. The chocolate desert was absolutely incredible. The restaurant is located at: via delle belle torri 10, Pisa, 56127. Tele 050 542458, www.ristorantelapergoletta.com. This restaurant will make a nice addition to your recommendations in Pisa.
Suzanne Walters in Denver, CO USA 10/25/2010
In Vernazza, use the Rick Steves' recommended restaurant list as only a rough guide. Many restaurants know they are listed in the book and are taking advantage of the tourists (high prices, poor food). Ask locals for suggestions and go where the restaurants seem busy with locals.
Jim Gray in Novato, CA USA 10/24/2010
We just got back from a month in Italy, an Rick Steves' Italy 2010 became our bible, we also noted while travelling on trains or buses, so many more people with the guide book. Wouldn't travel without it!!!
Larry & Evie Babcock in Kelowns, BC Canada 10/23/2010
Don't leave home without Rick! We just returned from 22 days in Italy and Rick's book was our constant companion - along with our Tom Tom GPS. We started in Venice, a week in Tuscany, another week in Umbria, down to Sorrento and Capri and back to Rome. We made sure Rick was with us every day and we would constantly refer to it during our travels. It's amazing how detailed and accurate it is - especially helpful were tips on where to park! I loved driving in Italy, parking in hill towns was challenging. Just having the book with us helped us meet other tourists who spoke English and we all shared what we were doing! I had Rick in my hand in Montapulciano when we went into Contucci Cantina. Adamo saw the book and we were instant friends. That was amazing! Thank you Rick for making our trip very special. It was our first trip to Europe but it won't be our last!
Barbara in Snohomish, WA USA 10/23/2010
Dei Mori, La Massa: Our dream of staying in a Tuscan villa was met last week when we arrived at Dei Mori, La Massa. The pouring rain did not dampen our spirits, because of the wonderful welcome we received from the owners, Peter and Danny. This villa, tucked deep into the hills of the Casentino Valley is not a typical tourist destination. It is much more unique and more beautiful than any place we have been in Tuscany. It is a short drive to Arezzo, Cortona, Poppi, Siena, and other hill towns. Also, know that if you never leave the villa or surrounding towns, you will be overwhelmed by the beauty of the swimming pool, the smell of star jasmine and lavender, lightening bugs at night, and hearing birds singing in the morning. There is also wonderful hiking and natural beauty in every direction. The owners, Peter and Danny are wonderful hosts, treating you like family. They will help you plan your visit, yet not be intrusive. This was our second visit to La Massa, and we were pleased to see the addition of their gym and "state of the art" sauna, which we used every day. We would highly recommend Dei Mori La Massa, and you will also see that it is definitely a hidden secret. Contact person ispeter@bnb.it Dei Mori B&B in Florence, which is a Rick Steves recommendation, is also owned by the same owners of Dei Mori, La Massa
JoAnne Cruson in Nampa, Id USA 10/18/2010
We found II Gelsomino B&B in La Spezia from Rick's guide book. This is a great spot the room was specious and nicely appointed (No TV not a bad thing), the breakfast and view on the patio is specular and Carla is a good cook. Rick says you need a car certainly, this is a must, but you probably also need a good GPS. If you think you made a wrong turn you are probably OK (You thought you were lost in Ireland!). Check the web site for step by step pictures, if you can get close and have a phone Carla will come and direct you. The reward for the effort to find this place is great. Also the La Spiza Railroad Station isn’t Gare de l’ Est. if you see a 50 foot high block wall your there, it’s on top. We didn’t find a parking lot but we did find street parking you will need plenty of 1E and 2E coins. If you are a Brunello fan like me try a small winery like Uccellera hard to find great tour and tasting.
John O Neill in Encinitas, Ca USA 10/17/2010
Many are in my long post under guidebook corrections. One question though - historically I have always been puzzled why Coke is so expensive in Europe in general relative to other beverages. Is it a tax, or why is the relative price so different than at home?
John MacBain in Carmel, IN USA 10/17/2010
We discovered Castelrotto from your book and stayed in Schlosshotel Mirabell a short way outside of town Castelrotto is busy and crowded and the Schlosshotel is superlative in every way. The view is incomparable and the Egger family which own and manage the hotel are outstandingly helpful and eager to make one's visit a success. The food in the elegant dining room is of the highest quality. I think it doubtful that any other place in the area can match this quality. Please consider including it in your book - 4 stars but reasonable. David Ward
david ward in garrison, NY USA 10/04/2010
Delicious seafood restaurant in Florence BaccaRossa, Via Ghibellina 46Red, Tel 055-240620 Charming hosts, Marina and her husband, unexpected food combinations that worked, wine recommendation was perfect.
Jill Ellis in Del Mar, CA USA 10/04/2010
San Clemente Church- Rome. It is in the guidebook but I think it deserves more than one triangle. It was so interesting to see the church built on top of an old pagan area...creepy down there!!
Andrea Kidd in Highlands Ranch, CO USA 09/28/2010
On a recent trip to the Cinque Terre, my husband and I stayed in a wonderful affitacamere in Monterosso al Mare, Marvit, http://www.marvit5terre.it/ing/dovesiamoING.htm. The proprietors were very friendly, the rates were incredibly reasonable for the area, and the room was the cleanest hotel room I have ever stayed in. (Or room had a large terrace as well). Marvit is about a block from the new town beac and the Monterosso train station, and was very easy to walk to. A market and laundry were just down the road. It was beautiful, enjoyable, and very affordable!
Heather Cole in Cambridge, MA USA 09/28/2010
The boat ride to Porto Venere was well worth the trip. We had a wonderful meal at Trattoria La Marin
Larry Honeywell in Chapel Hill, NC USA 09/27/2010
Bologna provides enough interest for at least a day in longer Italian holiday, and a place in your book. Most museums and churches were free, and crammed into the historic centre near good hotels and restaurants. The only place we paid for a tour was at the Ducati motorcycle factory/museum and that money goes to their charity. With the new fast trains, Bologna is easily doable as a day trip from Florence or Venice (better value than Murano/Burano IMHO.
Steve Madsen in Newcastle, Australia 09/26/2010
Sorrento,Italy, 4 star hotel, PLAZA, Via Fuorimura 3, 80067 Sorrento NA,tel: 39 081 878 2831, www.plazasorrento.com, info@plazasorrento.com
Donna Merlino in Staten Island, NY City, NY USA 09/17/2010
The Garfagnana north of Lucca. It was so lovely and very friendly. Much less tourism but we had a spectacular hike recommeded by the very helpful tourist office in Castelnouvo. They also found us a great (cheap) B&B in Castiglione: Il Pianacce, spectacular view, $55 Euro (thanks to low tourism, I guess).
Peter Hebard in Albuquerque, NM USA 09/10/2010
La Griglietta Ristorante, 170 Via Germanica, Rome (close to Vatican). Great food (the best and most unique Lasagna I had in all of Italy) - wonderful hosts (we rapidly became family members). REALLY recommend you check it out.
Mike Higgins in Vandalia, Oh USA 09/06/2010
As a Jewish person, it was important for me to see the synagogue in Florence, which had a very fascinating history and which was such a short walk from the city center. Sometimes, I got overwhelmed with Christian iconography and art, and a little of injection of Judaism while in Italy helped keep me on course. I think the synagogue should be listed or maybe a little tiny section on Jewish travelers, or a mention of the fact that there was a Jewish ghetto in every town in Italy except for Livorno.
Keren in Grosse Pointe Farms, MI USA 08/19/2010
My favorite discovery was: Following the basic rules that rick laid out in the book. Three of us went to Italy with no hotel reservations what so ever, and following the recs in the book we always found a great place at a good price. We also found some by just wandering around and asking rates. Same goes for restaurants. We avoided all the fancy places and went where we saw lots of locals eating and never had a bad meal. Also put together a lot of lunches by going to the coops and the salumarias and getting or goodies and eating in parks.
Washing clothes was another pleasant deal. taking only the basiscs and washing clothese every 3-4 days was new to us, but WELL WORTH IT!. Most self service lavendarias we went to include the soap in the price and it is all automated.
Joseph Prisco in San Pablo, CA USA 08/15/2010
My husband and I just returned from a 3 week trip to Italy in which we stayed in Naples, Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre and Venice. Rick's tips on purchasing passes that combined local transportation and entrance fees to popular sites were invaluable to us. His tips on purchasing these passes at the not-so-busy sites, and then by-passing long lines at the more popular sites saved us much time. Also appreciated were tips on storing our luggage at train stations while we toured a city for a few hours and then moved on. Instructions as to where to locate TI kiosks and maps depicting where one gains entrance to popular tourist sites helped greatly. Lastly, information included in the book on regional transportation was very helpful. Thank you for making our trip essentially stress free and saving us lots of money!
Marci Escamilla in Berlin, WI USA 08/15/2010
I worked in Italy this summer for 5 weeks and discovered wonderful little gems of small cities: Bassano del Grappa, near Venice, was absolutely beautiful- gorgeous mountain views, a beautiful ponte vecchio, an adorable, very walkable town, and of course grappa! San Remo, on the riviera, is also beautiful, as well as Udine, near Slovenia.
Amanda in Boston, MA USA 08/15/2010
We just returned from an amazing family trip to Italy. As I looked through our photos, I was amused to see my Rick Steve's books clutched tightly in my hands in MANY of the photos. I was hoping to forward one of the pix in Siena, so that you see just how close to our heart your guidebooks were on our trip. If there is a way to send you a picture, please let me know... We found tremendous value and took great comfort in using your books.
Michelle Siemer in Rochester Hills, MI USA 08/14/2010
Do not leave baggage on any train. You will not get your luggage back. There is no system regarding lost luggage for TrenItalia. Even with the police and train employees involved. They will throw your things away or keep them for themselves.
Diann Danska in Benicia, CA USA 08/04/2010
There is a restaraunt in Manarola's Groppo. It is called the Cappun Magru; very great fresh food. The owner goes every morning in La Spezia to pick out fresh ingredients, then goes back to make the food. There are four courses including dessert. It is a lovely restaraunt and hope you visit it soon. The service is so lovely and welcoming. Thanks! -Sophie Age: 13
Sophie Parsh in Sacramento, CA USA 08/01/2010
Rick--you were a great addition to our trip and my family and I felt you were our not so invisible fourth traveling companion. We developed new vocabulary words such as: Hmm, check the "rictionary" or: Let's see if there's a "rickommendation", or: Let's go "sightsteveing"! One recommendation we would advise is to add TORINO to your book. We stayed with some friends who live in a small village 30min.outside of Torino. They felt shortchanged by the omission of their area. After a day spent in TORINO we agree. Though we saw Torino at the beginning of our trip, it held up well. Less touristy then many of the big Italian cities, with great history, museums, walking streets. In short, Torino deserves inclusion in your Italy book. As does the beautiful mountains of Ceresole, about an hour north of Torino. Very accesible by car, and stunningly beautiful. Thanks for everything Rick. We miss you already.
Andy Traisman in Eugene, OR USA 07/31/2010
HI Rick Steves & Company! The Guidebook to Italy was a Godsend, and certainly reduced our rates. Really appreciated that, in midsummer, height of travel season. One disappointment was that there is no mention of Turino. It was the one place this past week (July 25-26th)when there were virtually no tourists, even in galleries. It was also the one place we really encountered local street musicians out singing opera and favorite Italian folk songs for the sake of singing. They gathered a crowd around them at one of the many piazza's under an arcade, where some couples even started to dance. The main reason I'm writing, however, is not about the above, but about an our experience w/Eurail pass and the ticket agents we encountered from Florence to Cinque Terre,CT to Turin and Turin to Lake Maggiore. our four destinations coverd in 10 days from July 16-26th. We failed to read our instructions on the Rail pass carefully enough. It indicated the need to get the rail pass initially dated and stamped at the outset of the trip, which entailed standing in a long line. Once at the wicket, the salespeople did not speak much of any English, and were not helpful in the least. When we got on the train, we dated our first date of travel and destination in the back, but failed to write the day's date on the front for that first of four travel days alotted on the pass, for two people. The only ticket person the entire trip who even looked at our ticket did so just out of Florence. When he spotted the missing first date on the front of the ticket, he fined us 50Euros, claiming he was being nice and we really owed him 100Euros. WE are two 61-year-old, grey-haired women, and I don't think we looked like we were trying to scam anyone. It was a brutal beginning to the train travel. We were well prepared to encounter pickpockets and gypsies, but not officials that scam you when you travel. In addition, at Levanto, we had a B & B booked, but didn't know the layout of the city or how far it was from the train station. When we asked the ticket agents about taxis they waved us away and wouldn't speak. So we bought a 5Euro telephone card to call a taxi. It came and took us to the bottom of the hill (two blocks) to our B & B and then charged us 10Euros....another scam. (In FLorence, it only cost us 24Euros to get to our hotel from the Train station; there were three of us and it was about a 20 minute drive. So, in summary, warn people about dating their EURAIL passes the first day, saying that Italian trainmen rarely look at any tickets or show up at all, but beware when they do! And don't count on ticket salespeople for any advice or polite help. So, if you buy a EURAIL pass, consider going and getting it dated and stamped a day ahead of when you travel, especially if you have a particularly train your trying to get first thing in the morning, when there are long lines. Otherwise, Italy is a dream: great food, wonderful people, and the fewest Americans of any country that I've ever travelled in. I'm a celiac and found that there was often non-gluten pasta available, as well as some restaurants, particularly in Levanto, had insignias in the window indicating they could provide gluten free fair. What a joy!!!!! p.s. add Turin to your travel guide: there are the absolute least number of tourists of any kind there! ciao, Anna Hemmendinger, Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Anna Hemmendinger in Waterloo, On Canada 07/28/2010
this book was the ultimate travel guide for my 2 week journey in italy
andrew in tiburon, ca USA 07/28/2010
We had a wonderful stay in Siena at Antica Residenza Cicogna (Via dei Termini 67). It's a small family-run place with charming frescoes on the ceilings.
Joan Goddard in Boulder, CO USA 07/18/2010
We loved Villa d'Este in Tivoli. We took the subway and public bus, which was crowded on a Saturday, but so worth the beauty. The gardens and fountains were breathtaking.
Stacy Jarrell in Spring Hill, FL USA 07/13/2010
Yes! Two restaurants in Venezia, Italia! They are Osteria Bea Vita and Ai Quattro Ferri (or Osteria ai Quattro Ferri). Osteria Bea Vita had the most divine salad and risotto! Goodness I was almost licking the plate! And the meat and dessert was to DIE for! Really warm cozy atmosphere. Would definitely recommend even though its a little pricey (not bad). Ai Quattro Ferri is a more seafood oriented restaurant but it also AMAZING! I personally am not an avid fan of seafood though I do have my favorites. While I was with my study abroad group, we ate a crab meat pasta salad, a lobster lasana and some type of fish (no scales or fins or anything, just a think piece of white fish). WOWZERS they ALL melted in my mouth with such an incredible flavor! And none of it felt heavy on the stomach. Perhaps a little rich but nothing terrible. For dessert, they gave us a small glass (similar to a shot glass) of sweet white wine. It tasted like liquid candy! I loved it all. From what I remember, the owner of the restaurant does not have a set menu everyday because he goes out and buys the freshest fish at the market and prepares from there. This place is also a little pricey but TONS of Venetian locals hang out here. I definitely recommend it!
Amanda Kwon in St. Louis, MO USA 07/13/2010
Be sure to order tickets online before you go to the Coloseum, Forum, and Vatican Museum. This saved many hours waiting in line. We arrived at St. Peter's at 8:15 in the morning and had NO line - walked right in and there were no crowds inside. A good street map of Rome is helpful.
Bonnie Johnson in Acworth, GA USA 07/10/2010
There are wonderful cooking opportunities in Italy for cooking classes. We went to a small medieval village outside of Rome and spent a wonderful day learning to cook! The web site is conviviorome.com. The hosts, Sally and Guido speak perfect English and and host a wonderful experience. I think this would be a fun addition to the guidebook as an idea of something different to do and see something special at the same time. This addition would be to the Rome 2010 guide.
The guide is great by the way!
Livia D'Andrea in Reno, NV USA 07/10/2010
Orvieto - Palumba and Mezze Luna restaurants are just fantastic, especially on subsequent visits. They remembered my name from a visit two years before.
Bryan horton in Ottawa, ON Canada 07/08/2010
Although directions on using the Circumvesuvia train were quite detailed, we were unprepared for the crowds and what that would mean with luggage at rush hour. Although we did use it on a Monday morning to go from Sorrento to Napoli Centrale and one of us used it to go to and from Sorrento and Pompeii without too much trouble despite the crowds, we hired a driver to take us from Napoli Centrale to Sorrento on a Friday afternoon and it was a great decision given the hordes we saw descending the stairs with luggage in tow. We got the name of the driver from TripAdvisor and could not have been happier with his service. In fact, we wish we had hired him for our 10-hour tour of the Amalfi Coast and Paestum as his English was excellent, he was great with adults and teens alike, and he was totally and completely reliable and straightforward. His contact information: Roberto di Palma "Amalfi Coast Destination Car Service" 84011 Amalfi, Salerno - Italy Tel.&Fax +39 089831244 - Cell. +39 338.9488130 Website : www.amalficoastdestination.com E-mail : info@amalficoastdestination.com
Carrie Klein in Oakland, CA USA 07/07/2010
We enjoyed our three night stay in Lucca at the Il Seminario bed and breakfast. Rooms were clean, modern, and spacious. Free wi-fi. Breakfast was very good. The accomodation is located within the city walls, on quiet streets, and is a short walk from the train station. Manager Paolo is available by cell phone to come get you if you have trouble finding the place. He speaks adequate English, and is very helpful. Our rate for all of this was 75 Euro/night. Thought your readers might be interested.
As always, we enjoyed the wonderful information in your books. We wouldn't travel without them! Thank you.
Kathy Cone in Lewiston, ID USA 07/05/2010
My husband and I just got back from an 11 day trip to Italy and it was wonderful! Your Italy 2010 book was extremely helpful and I carried it everywhere. I have several favorite discoveries that I want to share with you. We loved staying in Vernazza in Cinque Terre. We hiked the trail and the portion from Vernazza to Monterosso was very challenging. I would encourage people to bring walking sticks for that portion. There are many "steps" to climb, many of which are uneven and not true steps but just rocks jutting out. Most of the trail is not paved. But the spectacular views are worth it. Also, it is not very crowded because of the level of difficulty. Vernazza is a very friendly, warm village that does not allow vehicles. We spent our evenings sitting at the harbor watching the local kids play soccer or the adults visit with their neighbors.
In Venice, we discovered the La Fenice Opera House. Your book gives a small nod to the Opera House. Since before leaving the States I had read a book about the fire and rebuilding of it, I was interested in seeing it. One hot day in June we came upon the Opera House and went in. We paid the 7 Euros and wandered around. When we got to the floor with the boxes, we heard music. Upon entering an open box, we discovered that the orchestra was rehearsing for the Opera the next night. We had a seat in the box and listened to beautiful music for the next 40 minutes. What a peaceful, relaxing respite in the middle of the hot day in Venice. Well worth the price of admission!
My last favorite discovery was the beautiful Inn we stayed at in Venice. It is called "Ca' Centopietre" in the Dorsoduro section of Venice near the Accademia Bridge. Upon arriving at the train station, I promptly lost my directions to the Inn. I remembered it was near the Accademia Bridge. We took the Vaporetti to the Accademia stop, got off, and called the Inn. In response to my phone call about being lost, the gentleman working that afternoon at the Inn promptly came to the Bridge and escorted us back.. It is a quiet oasis in Venice. The rooms are very nice with king size beds and larger than usual showers. At least one room had a bathtub because I overheard the guest talking about it. Every morning breakfast is served in a beautiful dining room with a lovely painted ceiling. Apparently, the high, painted ceiling was closed off many years ago and only discovered when the Inn was refurbished. Carlo, the gentleman who ran the Inn, was very nice and helpful. The Inn is a real jewel in Venice and I highly recommend it.
Philomena Karol in Raleigh, NC USA 07/04/2010
Tuscany Bike Tours - so much to say about this guided bike tour which starts at an old castle turned winery/olive press through the wine country, stops at a Italian bistro for a great lunch and of course WINE then back to the Castle. The Host are hilarious and keep everyone entertained. Great Experience.
La Pentola Dell Osteria - is a quiet little restaurant along a hidden side street in Firenze. Great menu, house wine and the owners sit down and chat with you.
DS in Phoenix, AZ USA 07/03/2010
Piazza Navona! Thank you Rick for recommending this beautiful place to stroll among Bernini fountains. We rented an apartment nearby, and loved the spending evenings here.
Sherry Houpt in Dallas, TX USA 07/03/2010
Our family would like to thank Rick and your staff for the tips in the guide book. We just returned from our first visit to Italy (Rome, Florence, Pisa, and Venice), and your book was our daily companion, a family of 5: 2 parents, 2 college age kids and an 11 yr-old. I started planning in early January and read the book various times. I was very nervous about the details of the public transportation but reading the book and researching the internet helped us to recognize the metro in Rome, the trains, the bus in Pisa, and the waterbus in Venice. We had our kids read all about the vendors in Rome and the pick-pocketers. We were amazed at how accurate your descriptions were. Three attempts were made at us by pick-pocketers, one on a metro in Rome and twice on a bus in Pisa. Luckily we were prepared and they got nothing. We bought tickets to the Vatican on-line and at 2PM. There was no line as we walked right in on Tuesday. During our visit in the Sistine Chapel, we even heard an American who was reading out loud your description of the paintings from your Rome 2010 book. We bought the combo tickets at the Palatine entrance and there were 2 people in front of us, instead of waiting in a long line at the Colosseum. We asked our hotelier in Florence to reserve ticket for the Academia, and we also walked in without standing on line. We bought bus tickets at the tabacchi in Pisa, and always asked the bus drivers or the boat sailors before we boarded. Checking before boarding any transportation helped us avoided a few wrong choices. Our 11-year old checked out the gelato places in your book before we came to every city. We were able to enjoy Giolitti in Rome, Ricchi Café in Florence, and La Boutique del Gelato in Venice. In 2007 we traveled to Germany and Paris for the first time and used your Paris book in 2007 but we also had help from our sister in Germany. This time we were on our own and your book truly helped us to enjoy a fun and safe trip. In Venice, we discovered the San Giovanni Paolo church. It is a haven from the crowds and heat. It has an altar to St. Catherine of Sienna that has one of her feet enshrined. It's not mentioned at all in the publication at the front. She reportedly had stigmata on her hands and feet.
Hung Nguyen in Santa Clara, CA USA 06/26/2010
Apparently, no one stays in Pompei when they visit the ruins of Pompeii, but my husband and I did and found it to be one of the most delightful experiences of our two-week trip. The Hotel Diana, a family-run establishment, was delightful--the best accommodation in two weeks. Sonya (sp.?), one of the owners along with her father and brother, was warm, helpful, and articulate. Their goal as hoteliers is to make their guests feel like family with they did even though we only spent one night with them. I had commented to Sonya about the size of the lemons ( citrines?) we saw as we drove through town on our way to the hotel and complimented the beautiful rose and hydrangea arrangements that graced the hotel. She said they were from her grandmother's garden. Later in the day Sonya gave me two huge lemons. The next morning as we were checking out, her grandmother gave me two more! The hotel is clean, recently renovated (our room was finished in January), and there is a beautiful garden with tables under a canopy of orange and lemon trees. Our room had a large, state of the art bathroom and a private sitting area that was beautifully landscaped. The family has a mini-bus with which they conduct excursions to Mt. Vesuvius and other places. The breakfast, which was included in the price of the room (95 euros) was the best we had anywhere. Fresh meats and cheeses, cereal, milk, juice, ample coffee (American style, to my husband's delight), fresh fruits, and the biggest, flakiest croissants I have ever eaten! Huge croissants must be a Pompei "thing," for I noticed them in a few bakery windows as we walked through town. The church in town was impressive even though we did not see much of it since it is undergoing major repairs and reconstruction. In this town, despite the tourist traps on the street where the entrances to Pompeii are located, we experienced (or think we did ) life in a typical Italian town. We saw people out for their evening strolls and old men sitting on benches in the square around the church along with dogs--lots of dogs--sleeping in the square. I would have liked to have spent a few more days in Pompei. I would have used it as a base to visit the volcano, Herculaneum, which we did not see, and the museum in Naples. Hotel Diana's web address is www.pompeihotel.com. The address is Vis Sacra, vicolo Sant' Abbondio, 12; 80045 Pompei (Na) Italia. Phone is +39 081 8631264 I also had a wonderful experience with a cameo (cammei) shop there--Donadio. My father had served near Bologna in WW II, and during an R & R to Naples and Caserta he purchased a cameo necklace for my mother which I now have. I thought it would be neat to buy a cameo piece for myself 66 years after my dad bought the necklace. This shop is not on the tourist drag but near it. I was able to observe the master cameo maker at work, saw the various shells used, and learned a little something about the art. The sales person was articulate and helpful--no hard sell. I am delighted with the ring I purchased and hope that it will become a family heiroom like my mother's necklace. Please put Pompei in your next guidebook!
Michalene Perry in Punta Gorda, FL USA 06/24/2010
Assisi - Magna Vina restaraunt. Small restaraunt, with indoor and outdoor seating. Cant be beat with $3 glasses of local wine and a full bar of free appetizers to start the evening. Locals came in and out just for some wine and free apps. The food was also wonderful. Entres ranged from 10 to 25 Euro, and the entire bill for wine and dinner was 60 Euro. Try the Truffle Panini, for $6, easily the best tasting, most resonalby priced item we found throughout Italy. Incredible! The owner, Mario, was very courteous, spoke very good english, and gave the little place a great ambiance. Cant wait to go back.
Chad Petersen in Tonawanda, NY USA 06/22/2010
Montecatini-Terme is a central and lively town between Florence and Pisa-Lucca with a very real Italian feel.It has great mountain veiws and many excellant restaurants.
Allan Hastings in Ballinafad, on canada 06/20/2010
I used a local taxi service for all my travel needs in Naples and on the Amalfi Coast: Ravello Taxi ( 0039-338-4883510 0039-338-4883510 ; salvatore@ravellotaxi.com. ) Salvatori Pagano was a delightful Italian who spoke excellent english and was a great source of information on the local history, cuisine and sites worth seeing. I ate a number of times at a delightful restaurant in Ravello called Tratoria Pizzeria-Cumpa Cosimo. The ambience was authentic Italian and charming.
Peter C. Grothaus in Abilene, Tx USA 06/19/2010
Ischia island, Mortella Garden. 30 minutes by ferry from Sorrento. rated the best garden in Italy.
Also in Stresa the restaurant Trattoria Imbarcadero. On the square across from the boat dock. Excellent food and very reasonably priced. Also great staff.
ernie ooms in calgary, al canada 06/16/2010
We are in Italy for two weeks and finding your guidebook very helpful.
As I write this, we are on vacation in Tuscany
Carla Selvey in Roanoke, VA USA 06/14/2010
My wife and I found your Italy guide great. Hotel Sonya in Rome was very personable, Hotel Centrale in Florence was great, and Settimo Cielo in SOrrento was great. I would discourage trips to Capri during the tourist season, and Pompei was very strenous for the older traveler.
Jim King in Largo, Fl USA 06/14/2010
We found a fabulous place to stay--gracious, family hospitality; the food was excellent; the rooms so spacious; clean and bright; antiques; books; 2 living rooms--one with a lovely fireplace on at cool times, an Irish setter (Pippo)who greeted us warmly and made us feel so much at home. This place was like a piece of heaven. This is an excellent location in Umbria to visit so many attractions of the region. Villa Zuccari 06036 San Luca di Montefalco (PG)-Italy Tel. +39 0742.399402-Fax +39 0742.399194 e-mail: hotel@villazuccari.com http://www.villazuccari.com
Bernadette Schrage in Calgary, AB Canada 06/12/2010
I just returned from a 17 day tour of Italy by train. On the 1st train to visit relatives in Pisa, I discovered that I had left my "Rick Steves' Italy" on my bed along with all of my notes. While wandering the back streets of Venezia, I came across a bookstore which had a fine supply of your books (in Inglese) and I ...was able to purchase a copy of the 2010 edition. As a result of that, I hired Allesandro Schezzini (referenced in the book) to give four of us a 2 hour walking tour of Venice. He was exactly as advertised in the book. What a great way to see Venice.....through the eyes of a true Venetian! Thanks, Rick.
Leonard Wolfson
Leonard Wolfson in Miami Beach, FL USA 06/11/2010
Bus route 175 in Rome was by far the most helpful one I used during my stay and I was surprised that it wasn't included in the list of useful bus routes on page 682. It took us from Termini Station, down Via del Tritone, and to Via del Corso, and I believe it also goes through the historic area (near the Forum and Colosseum). It was the bus route that the information booth outside Termini station recommended in order to get to the Trevi Fountain or Spanish Steps from Termini Station. This route might be helpful to other travelers in the future.
At the train station in Naples, my family saved a lot of time by purchasing a tour package that cost 17 euro per person. We bought the package downstairs. Just to the left of the Circumvesuviana ticket window, there was another ticket window with a "Too-to train" sign. The package included transportation from Naples--> Pompeii --> Sorrento, and Sorrento --> Naples, plus admission to the Pompeii ruins. After paying for the package, we received a voucher. Once we got off the train at Pompeii, we redeemed the vouchers for Pompeii ruin tickets at a booth located just outside the train station. When we arrived at the Pompeii ruins, there was a long line of visitors at the ticket window, but we were able to bypass it since we already had our tickets! We first learned about this tip from fellow Americans we talked to while touring the Vatican Museum in Rome. There was no mention of this in Rick Steves' book so I figured I'd pass the information along.
The cost savings may have been minimal, but the time we saved was well worth it.
Carol Jin in Glen Cove, NY USA 06/10/2010
New restaurant just opened a couple weeks before we arrived in Varenna: Varennamonamour Ristorante. We met a couple from Washington, D.C. who had been there the night before & highly recommended it. We did & had an excellent dinner with great wine (bottled) at a reasonable price. We would categorize the prices as moderate, similar to your recommended Ristorante la Contrada which we also enjoyed. The decor is all new & very contemporary, the menu unique, the presentation excellent, the service gracious & knowledgeable, the location is on one of the narrow staircases climbing the hill from the waterfront. Info: Tel/Fax 0341 814016 / www.varennamonamour.it.
We would also recommend Bar Il Molo. It is right next to your selected Nilus Bar with very similar seating. We enjoyed our waitress (Valentina) so much that we became regulars daily to enjoy a carafe of wine & hors d'oeuvres while enjoying the view & watching people. They do a big business in yummy gelato specialties & pizza. Info: www.barilmolo.it / barilmolo@fastwebnet.it / Tel/Fax +39 0341 830070.
Barbara Jennings in Munds Park, AZ USA 06/10/2010
Italy 2010. Great guidebook, as usual. One tip we may have found is on the Roma pass for Rome landmarks. We had used our "allowed" visits to the Coliseum, National Museum, etc. Kept the Pass, then got stuck in LONG LINE at the Forum. Just for heck of it, I put the pass through the gate..it worked ! Then my wife's also.. saved 24 euros and most important time. Don't know if this is software glitch or only at this particular gate. Would recommend readers TRY their passes even if expired - the worst that could happen is it doesn't work, and you get in line anyway.
kathy Law in Oakland, CA USA 06/09/2010
When in Cinque Terre we took the vineyard walk and it was wonderful, but your instructions that the trail ends at a T intersection was confusing, there was a T intesection before the correct one. Then the correct T was confusing because there was a warning sign about a the path being dangerous so we thought that was not the right T either.
Should also warn people that the towns shut down at sundown for car trafic, so you have to haul your luggage up and down hills a long long long way.
jim pottinger in plano, tx USA 06/09/2010
Love your Italy 2009! I have always used Lonely Planet and Rough Guides, but this time your book was spot on and so helpful. Apparently we missed you by two weeks in Venice at the Ca' del Dose Camere.
Jan Loveland in Key West, FL USA 06/07/2010
ArtViva's Best of Tuscany Tour was fabulous. We had a great time, their staff were all so accomodating and our guide, Guiseppe was so much fun. Rebecca, North Carolina.
Rebecca Patterson in Sylva, NC USA 06/07/2010
Restaurant- La mensa di Bacco Via Principe Amedeo, 75 a-b Roma tel/064466920 Great food at a great price. Family owned business. Alfredo was a great waiter. They have an accordian player walking through the restaurant which is fun. The veal scalopine was to die for, highly recommend.
Diane Triolo in Gilbert, Az USA 06/06/2010
Wow we just had three days with tours by Jason Spiehler and his staff who are incrediably educated and informed about all aspects of Roma. We are now Roma citizens and have a depth of knowledge about the history and great art of Roma! This is the only way to really know a city and then you can really appreciate it's citizens and culture.
Mary-London Eldred in Bremerton, WA USA 06/01/2010
I was unable to book a reservation to see the Last Supper in Milan despite trying 6 weeks in advance and trying several booking agents. I used Rick's tip of going to one of the tour companies (the one at the TI) and they had 2 tickets (only 2 were left) available for the next day's tour. The tour guide was good and we were able to see the Last Supper with 15 minutes of explanations from the guide. I recommend booking the tour in advance if you want to see the Last Supper and to not rely on going to the TI if you are unable to book it directly. Thanks Rick for the tip.
I listened to Rick's free iTunes programs on Venice. Both worked great and were very interesting. I recommend that you download them and listen to them on the Grand Canal and the in the Frari church.
Jim Perschbacher in Atlanta, GA USA 05/29/2010
Hi Rick, We were in Rome May 29, 30th, June 1st and the morning of June 3rd. We had your "Italy 2010" and had taken a reservation at the Aberdeen Hotel. You had recommended it and it was excellant. It was the Italian labor day weekend and we're told that many things were closed and we knew that ahead of time. We hired private tours, but found out afterwards that we should've made reservations months in advance to get into the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum to avoid the long lines with a limited time schedule. Maybe you told about this in your book, but we must've missed it. We talked to some other tourists who had made reservations and got in to see those things on those dates and didn't have to wait in long lines. We were sad to leave Rome without ever getting to see those treasures. Marg McKennett
marg mckennett in williston, nd USA 05/29/2010
Thanks Rick for being our travel companion through Italy! We really enjoyed your company and we can hardly believe you're American...your sense of humour is ironic and sardonic, not like so many of your compatriots! We're Australian and we love you.
Cathy Horton in Perth, WA Australia 05/28/2010
We stayed at a couple of good hotels that you should consider adding: Varenna - Hotel Du Lac. A bit hard to find but right on the lake and very nice. Very friendly helpful staff. Has a computer available for guest use.
HOTEL DU LAC - Via Del Prestino, 11 - 23829 Varenna (LC) Italia Tel. 0341 830238 - Fax 0341 831081
e-mail: albergodulac@tin.it
www.albergodulac.com
Florence - Hotel Axial is a block and a half south of the Duomo in a prime location. Large, clean room and also provided computers for guest use. Exceptionally helpful staff very fluent in English.
http://www.hotelaxial.it info@hotelaxial.it Via dei Calzaiuoli, 11 Firenze , Italia tel. +39 055218984 fax. +39 055211733
George in St Louis, MO USA 05/24/2010
Please, once again, remind Americans to be aware that they are visitors to someone's hometown/country and that they represent us all. I was embarrassed several times by the thoughtless behaviors of my fellow-countrywomen and men.
Linda Eastman in Winters, CA USA 05/24/2010
FREE Rome walking tours. 3 different tours daily. Meet at the McDondalds's near Spanish Steps. Info posted in McDonald's and on line: www.romefreetour.com Tours are free though the custom is to tip the guide. Seems most people tipped 5-10 euros. This program supposedly started in Berlin and now is also in Paris, London and Amsterdam as well as Boston and South America. This program has been operating for just over a year in Rome. I went on all three tours and it was a great way to see the city without too much hassle.
Bryan in San Francisco, CA USA 05/22/2010
Addition to Cinque Terre Snapshot book: On our day trip to Portovenere, we took the train to LaSpezia using our Treno ticket, then took a $30EUR taxi to Portovenere. The castle and church in Portovenere were a great place to visit. Then we took the boat back to Monterossa. I would also add the restaurant we ate at for lunch was wonderful: Ristaurante Elettra. It was a nice side trip.
Susie Deyo in LaConner, WA USA 05/22/2010
ACasa5Terre.com was a great site to find a condo/apartment for our extended stay in Cinque Terre. Claudio was very helpful, as well as our room was great with a view up the mountains. Great location just up the stairs from the La Scogliera.
Susie Deyo in LaConner, WA USA 05/22/2010
Our favorite discovery was B&B Bologna Guest House in Rome located at Piazza Bologna 6. We found this (just doing internet searching) little gem and had booked it through Expedia. The cost (booking through Expedia) was 95 Euro/night (Standard Double with "either" interior or exterior bathroom). Choosing the exterior bathroom you get a balcony, much larger room, a kitchen (shared with one other guest room)and your bath is down the hall from your room (not that big of an inconvience...you don't share the bath...it belongs only to one room). Choosing the interior bathroom is a smaller room, you share the kitchen and your bath is attached (just like a typical american hotel). If you use the Bologna Guest House email, you can book it directly and (we are here in May)they charge only 90 Euro/night for our one week stay. What we loved about this place was that it is run by a younger gal and her mother who have a ton of tips and maps all laid out for you to help you get around Rome. You are literally steps away from the Metro...and the bus line! There are many resturants, grocery store, laundry mat and everything you can think of right here. So, when you get back from the Mad, mad, city of ancient Rome...you are in more like a neighborhood setting. Our only drawback...is that we are from a small town...and there is a lot of city noise. But, you can close down the shutters and windows and cut most of the noise out...and all of the light (should you choose to). There is air-conditioning, a lift and it is really a great price for what we found in Rome. Micheala is from Brazil and a Portugese speaking attorney...her English is great and she is extremely helpful. We had wi-fi in our room for no extra charge. Having full use of a kitchen saved us TONS of money (which was great in Rome) and every morning you wake up they have made you coffee and set out a continiental breakfast for you in the kitchen (you can have breakfast in your jammies if you want!) We were lucky enough to only have to share the "apartment" with one other guest for two nights..so, we really felt spoiled for space. They didn't give us fresh towels everyday (they do if you ask) and it isn't spit-polish clean...but, its VERY clean (and clean enough to please us). We highly recommend you look into it...as we felt that there was a big gap in what was available in the Rome section of the book for a "sleeping" guide. I noticed that your recommendations are broken into the various areas near the tourist sights (which works well if you have been here before and know which areas may interest you most). For us, we thought this worked well. We used the Roma pass and the Metro mostly...rode the bus once...and walked our little fannies off! Fortunately, we kept the gelato levels high enough to maintain our middle-aged figures! :) Guest House Bologna Guest House - AffittacamereADDRESS: Piazza Bologna 6CITY: RomaGuest House EMAIL: bologna.rm@venere.comTELEPHONE: +39-06-44240244FAX: +39-06-44240244
Carla and Warren Bird in Salem, OR USA 05/19/2010
We absolutely loved your audio downloads. We used the ones for St. Peters, The Sistene Chapel, Night tour of Rome, Colosseum, Pompeii, Renaissance walk, Uffizi and the Accademia. All were wonderful!!
Marty Abbott in Clarksville, IN USA 05/16/2010
The Garden Hotel in Levanto was extraordinary. We only stayed one night, however we would love to spend a week. What a fabulous base camp for the Chinque Terre. David was so very helpful and the rooms were amazing. Loved those heated towel racks and the linen towels. Wonderful balcony!
Sharon Kasper in Newcastle, WA USA 05/11/2010
Not to spoil the feeling of discovery but prior to your trip I would recommend entering the addresses of places you want to visit, stay in, eat in from the Guidebooks and plug that into Google Maps and click the satellite view. It gave me a feeling of ease to have a visual of where things were prior to actually being there. You really won't spoil being there in person and it will help fix the geography of these places in your head.
Michael Chevalier in New Hope, PA USA 05/07/2010
You should add Hotel David in Florence. We are experienced travelers, and hands down, we have never found a hotel trying so hard to please guests. Great staff, nice rooms, great breakfast - we have stayed there each of the last two years and would stay there again if returning to Florence.
Chuck Bradshaw in Franklin, VA USA 05/02/2010
1) Re: Italy, The Cinque Terre. Since my Rick Steve's 2010 Guidebook became my well-trusted bible, I would have liked you to tell me to bring my walking sticks to The Cinque Terre. There were none to buy or rent nor were there any natural "sticks" along side the path. You did mention bringing sturdy shoes. I was very glad I had my hiking boots. 2) We visited 11 hill towns. Your suggestions and descriptions worked great. We loved Colle Di Val D'Elsa, one you did not include. Go directly to Quinte Ristorante and order this: Cuori rossi di Mozarela Bufala e Bascilico con Vellutata di Melazane e Pompadora al Protomodi Origaro. I had no idea what that was, (and probably didn't spell it right) but the delightful waitress, who spoke no English said it would be wonderful, and she was right! Everyone at the table had order envy.
Karen Matheson in West Simsbury, CT USA 05/01/2010
First I want to sincerely thank Rick Steve and his staff for their guidebook on Italy. We just returned from a whirlwind two days in Rome, two in Florence, one in Venice and two in Milan where I had to speak at a conference. Without this book we never would have had the best trip we ever have had. The suggestions were perfect. We chose to use the walking tours in each city except Milan. They could have been better. For example our guide for the Vatican was a PhD candidate who was studying comparative theology; who had finished seminary, but had chosen not to be a priest but a professor instead. He was our personal guide for the next four hours through St Peters, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum. We couldn't have had a more knowledgeable guide. Our next guide for the Roman Forum had a graduate degree in Art History and had lived in Rome for over 10 years. Her knowledge and insights were priceless. Every guide and tour we took in the other cities were equally impressive and knowledgeable. The hotel recommendations were equally excellent. We stayed in the Oceania in Rome; the Casa Rabatti in Florence and hotel Orion in Venice. In each case the people were professional and extremely helpful and drew directions on maps to show us how to find the Metro stops. Again, thanks for your hard work and publishing such a good travel guide.
Dennis Phelan in Portland, OR USA 04/25/2010
Take the "Best of Tuscany" tour offered by Walkabout Pass. It was absolutely fantastic and one of the best days of our Italian vacation.
lorri cahill in placerville, ca USA 04/21/2010
Small towns in Southern Italy such as Martina Franca, Grottaglie (the ceramics district!), Lecce. The Valle d'Itria, to see all the trullo houses, wonderful old stone structures with conical roofs. Alberobello is fine, but it is more pleasant to see these unique homes in the countryside.
Teresa Tonnemaker in Mukilteo, WA USA 04/21/2010
Rick's 2010 Italian and 2010 Rome were a lifesaving investment. Not only did these books allow us to forego expensive maps and site information, the practical information was invaluable. In the Cinque Terre we were actually approached by "Aegis" for a room in Vernazza. Lo and behold, this Italian was in Rick's book. Aegis did a great job and gave our family of six two comfortable and clean rooms at a reasonable price. We would highly recommend him and thanks to Rick, we know that this Italian was legite!
Brian in Fort Wayne, IN USA 04/12/2010
The Hotel Bellettini in Florence, Italy, is a delightful budget place to stay, literally "around the corner" from the Duomo. The rooms are clean, adequate; the breakfast is fulfilling (eggs, meat, cheeses, fruit, breads, cereal. The owners were very helpful to us when we were trying to retrieve our delayed luggage. The address is Via dei Conti 7; website-www.hotelbellettini.com. The hotel is on the 3rd floor, and there is a lift!
Anne Duda in Rocklin, CA USA 04/10/2010
I suggest removing Egi's rooms in Vernazza from all of your books-over the years he has become greedy and unreliable. Last year was his last for my business, after mysteriously losing my reservation the day after confirming it via email. The look on his face was priceless when I pulled out my iphone and showed it to him.
Pavel in Norfolk, VA USA 04/09/2010
We just returned from two weeks in Italy with our 2 kids (ages 6 and 9): Cinque Terre, Rome, Florence, Venice. There isn't all that much in the book about kids (nor in any other book I could stomach buying), so I thought I should point out that kids under 12 are often admitted free or at a deep discount (or you get a family discount). Kids under 10 travel free on Rome public transportation (and possibly in other places). Trenitalia offers family fares on many trips if purchased in advance.
We went to Cinque Terre first, which is a great way to get over jet lag -- everything is outdoors, but there's no stress about missing a sight (because there really aren't any beyond the free views). We stayed at the Manarola hostel; the person at the front desk gave us a good, scenic route for hiking over to the next town on the path that's the 'next level' up from the shoreline path (if you can do dayhikes in the mountains, you can hike in the Cinque Terre, although the receptionist did warn us to watch the slate rocks when going downhill). The hostel was also happy to accommodate my wife's requests for gluten-free food for breakfast and one of our dinners.
Since we had kids, we booked all accommodations and major train travel in advance (we traveled during Holy Week, when trains can be very crowded). Many Italian websites (such as Hostel 5 Terre's and the Vatican Museum's) are fine. Many are not. Trenitalia is especially bad if you're trying to purchase tickets with a US credit card; we could not get any of ours to work, and had to rely on friends in Italy to purchase the tickets for us. Once we had the paperless tickets, though, the system was a breeze. We printed ours out, but on our last leg the gentleman across from us just showed the conductor the reservation code on his mobile phone (truly paperless).
We were unable to get tickets for the 'Secret Itineraries' tour of the Doge's palace in Venice; the website refused to sell them at all. I once got through on the telephone from the US and was told it was too early to buy them. When I phoned back a week later, I would be put on hold for 10 minutes, then disconnected. This happened a few times before I gave up. I could not get through while in Italy (I suspect their number has changed). And of course, once I got to Venice, they were sold out.
On a positive note, the Borghese Gallery phone system was great, and skipping the Vatican Museum lines with a reservation was a great time-saver, as was getting the Doge's Palace ticket at the Correr Museum and bypassing the line there. Skipping the line at the Basicila San Marco in Venice by checking a bag didn't work; they would only check very large bags. Fortunately, even on the day before Easter the line was manageable.
The Uffizi reservation system appears to involve standing in multiple lines for a long time even if you have a reservation. Going to the Palatine Hill to buy tickets for the Forum and Colosseum still works, as it is the shortest of the 3 lines, but it was a long line for us nonetheless. Better would be to buy a Roma Pass in advance elsewhere; the people with Roma Passes got to use a special, shorter line. If we had bought 2 Roma Passes for my wife and me, we could still have used this line to redeem the pass and buy (discounted) tickets for our kids (kids should not buy Roma Passes, because they are already heavily discounted or free in most places, as I mentioned above).
In addition to Rick Steves' Italy, we brought Lonely Planet Italy, which we mostly used for their pretty excellent city maps, and an execrable Frommer's Guide to Northern Italy with Kids (which we didn't use at all). We bought a map in Venice, mostly to find streets by name; we still made wrong turns there, of course, that's part of the fun.
My wife also downloaded lots of Rick Steves audio guides to use with her iPod (add 2 sets of earbuds and a splitter; one earbud per person is enough for the mono audioguides). I'm sure an art historian would find the audioguides lacking; buy a museum guide if they aren't good enough for you. They seemed to be at a reasonable level for our kids, thanks I'm sure to the occasional irreverent jokes.
Remember to either bring a 220V charger and an adapter for your electrical gadgets, or do without. I did see a 110V/220V outlet in the restroom of our Florence hotel, but that was an exception. Outlets are all over, though (including in trains).
One more thing: we bought the kids a gelato almost every day, but we adults should have treated ourselves more often to a late afternoon drink at a table in a bar/cafe. It's much more relaxing than eating while standing up or on the steps, and isn't all that expensive (assuming you don't choose a cafe on a main tourist square). Plus if your kids are like mine, they'll like sitting down for a while, too.
Also: bring your own food to eat at the Vatican Museum Cafeteria. Their cafeteria had the worst food we ate in Italy.
Greg Barnes in Seattle, WA USA 04/08/2010
I would like to remark on the recommendation for taxi drivers for the Amalfi Coast - am not sure where to put it in this format.
Christine Martin in Upperco, MD USA 04/01/2010
Driverinrome - We had 2 drivers. 1 in Naples on July 15 his name was Gino and the 2nd in Rome on July 16th Patrick. Both drivers were very knowledgeable and friendly. They both really wanted to make sure that we got the most out of our day. We had guides arranged for us in Pompeii and then at the Vatican. They too were very knowledgeable about the sites that they were guiding us about. I would recommend your services to anyone traveling in the area.
Anne Marie in Hillsborough, NJ USA 03/31/2010
YES ,THE BEST TRADITIONAL,FAMILY FOOD IN BELLAGIO IS JUST OUTSIDE BELLAGIO,IN CHEVRIO,ABOUT 15 MIN DRIVE TOWARD CIVENNA/GHISALLO TO A YELLOW HOME WITH THE MOUNTAINS BEHIND IT,TWO TURNS AND ON THE LEFT, SIGNS, TO DIRT ROAD.BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF THE LAKE,FROM HIGH UP.0039 031964773 THE BLUEBERRY GRAPPA IS THE BEST
FRED DOON in WESTON , CT USA 03/22/2010
YES,LAST YEAR I WAS ON A MOTORCYCLE TRIP IN ITALY,AND IN BELLAGIO,LAKE COMO,I FOUND THE Apartment " I giardini di Villa Melzi "FIRST SEASON OPENED.AT 40 EURO PER-PERSON,PER NIGHT HAS TO BE ONE OF THE BEST DEALS IN TOWN,PLUS YOU HAVE A FREE PASS TO THE GARDENS TO WALK TO BELLAGIO,AND A 10% OFF AT THE RESTAURANT "ALLE DARSENE" CONTACT loppiappartamenti@alice.it OR www.flickr.com/photos/appartamenti/sets/ TO SEE THE APARTMENTS
FRED DOON in WESTON , CT USA 03/22/2010
We still have room for Easter / Spring travelers at Genius Loci Country Inn. Come to an uncrowded area for a great break inbetween city travels. Enjoy our typical Umbrian Easter breakfast. Rick Steves' readers receive a complimentary bottle of our D.O.C.G. wine.
Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, PG ITALY 03/08/2010
My wife and I use your guidebooks extensively in 2005 we used the Italy, in 2007 we used your London guidebook and now I am studying your 2010 Rome book. We do not travel to europe without your coaching. Just thought you would like the feedback..keep up the very the good work. I especially like the little maps of the sections of cities and attractions in each section.
Harold J. Jesse in Sherwood Park, AB Canada 02/23/2010
My favorite discovery? Genoa! But it's not in the book!
Robert Cole in Bethesda, MD USA 02/13/2010
Albergo Al Gambero S. Marco in Venice tel 041.5224384. Located between Rialto and S. Marco for 90 Euros a night for three nights in October 2009. We called ahead driving from Varenna and booked the same day.
We also recommend the Albergo del Chianti, at Piazza G Matteotti 86 in Greve Chianti, tel 039-55-853763. 95 Euros a night booked the same day by phone.
We also recommend the Lido Palace Hotel in Santa Margherita in Liguria. 4 stars on the waterfront for 120 Euros per night in October, booked at the last minute.
Ed & Rita Reed in Port Aransas, TX USA 01/19/2010
Thank you! We went to Italy for 2 weeks and went to Rome, Pompeii, Florence, Lucca, Pisa, Venice and Milan. Your guidebook was AMAZINGLY helpful and in many places we did not need to purchase the audio guides! We didn't have a specific plan other than to explore and your book gave us all the info we needed to get the most out of each city in the relatively short time we had to really see them. The info you gave us was valuable and 100% accurate! You helped us everywhere from buying our Eurorail passes, to which bus to take to Pisa from the the train station. Your info was particularly valuable to friends of ours who were planning on taking a trip to Murano on Wed. Your guide noted that the glassworks at Murano were closed on Wed. Our friends had that on their agenda - you saved them a fruitless trip since their hotel concierge had not pointed that fact out to them! We appreciate you and your staff! Kelly Stearns
Kelly Stearns in Belmont, MA USA 01/17/2010
As many others have mentioned, a bit disappointed that Bologna was left out of the book. My wife and I are looking into moving to Italy for a couple years (for a post-doc) and Bologna was one of the main cities we are considering. Any plans to include it in a future edition? Thanks!
Jeff in Vanderpham, New Zealand 01/08/2010
We stayed at Il Nido Hotel just outside Sorrento. Great view of the Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius, terrific shuttle service to go to/from Sorrento. The family that runs the hotel is extremely accommodating. The price was excellent. The website is: http://www.ilnido.it/
Claudia in Pienza, Italy 01/07/2010
I made use of the book on a daily basis and considered it my bible around Italy. Without it I dont know how I would have survived.
Scott Yu in Mountain View, CA USA 01/01/2010
GENIUS LOCI COUNTRY INN (www.geniuslociumbria.com) IN THE HEART OF UMBRIA THANKS ITS RICK STEVES' READERS FOR THEIR ENTHUSIASTIC SUPPORT THIS YEAR. WE ARE GEARING UP FOR A GREAT EASTER WEEK OPENING AND AN EXCITING 2010. AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT: MAKE YOUR RESERVATIONS NOW! MICHAEL and staff
Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna - Umbria, PG Italy 12/23/2009
I highly recommend using a private driver instead of excursions set up from a cruise ship. For our family of 5, we found that it was less expensive, we had a private tour, rode in the comfort of a Mercedes Minivan, got to drive in closer to the sites, so that we could see more in one day. Also, the company that we used, arranged for the same driver in multiple ports ~ Naples (Pompeii, Sorrento and Positano), Civitavecchia (Rome, Vatican City and ALL of the sites), and Livorno (Florence and Pisa). The added benefit was that we developed a friendship with our driver who was a wonderful storyteller and historian. I highly recommend http://www.driverinrome.com/.
Cynthia Pascual in Garnet Valley, PA USA 12/14/2009
We enjoyed the Monumental Cemetary in Milan very much. Could have spend all day looking @ the ART there.
Diane Blewett in Cathlamet, WA USA 12/13/2009
Dear Rick and Associates,
My wife and I recently returned from a fabulous trip to Italy, much of which was guided by your book. I was trying to calculate when in time the book paid for itself and thought that it was perhaps even before we left for the trip. After further thought, your book paid for itself almost every time I opened it! The time efficiency based on the logistics recommended throughout your book maximized the time we were on vacation. One major thing that we did that was not in your Italy book was a 6-day bike tour in Tuscany. We would venture that biking is the absolute best way to experience the region. I would like to tell you about some specifics of our tour for consideration in updates to your book or online material. We used a company called I Bike Tuscany (www.ibiketuscany.com) run by a charming, native Italian named Marco Vignoli. He provided excellent equipment and guided us expertly throughout the Chianti Classico region, which was spectacular with regards to scenery, food, wine, and friendly people. While the tour was labeled for advanced bikers, Marco immediately saw that my wife and I were able to ride the routes easily and customized the tour by extending the rides daily. This is certainly one of the benefits of his specialty - the private tour (although he does many one-day trips and will accommodate small groups). What makes Marco and his tour so much like your books is the emphasis on being as immersed in the culture and people as possible. • We rode almost exclusively back roads, some of them paved, some not. • We stayed at a well thought out progression of farm house (part of Italy’s agricultural tourism program), converted water mill, and finally a beautiful castello. • In many villages, we ate meals at restaurants (the only other visible business besides the winery) with the owners who were clearly longtime friends of Marco. • The wine tours and tastings often went behind the scenes where my wife and I had the chance to see winery activities that we had not seen in 17 years of living in the San Francisco Bay area. In all, the preparation and execution of the itinerary, even supplemented on the fly, were first rate. We cannot recommend Marco and his company any higher. I do not know what confirmation it takes to make it into your advisory material but if I can be of any further assistance please email or call. Sincerely never leaving home without a Rick Steves book, Terry and Wendy Ransbury Chapel Hill, NC transbury@innerpulse.com 919-260-7305 PS, we confirmed the gelato references in Venice and Siena; - sometimes twice a day.
Terry Ransbury in Chapel Hill, NC USA 12/09/2009
Hotel in Rome - Sofitel Villa Borghese. Great Location, friendly staff, price was no higher than some of the other splurge hotels mentioned in the book.
Lloyd in Mill Creek, WA USA 11/29/2009
We have used all four of your Italy books - we were in Italy for several months and used them to the point that we will need to buy new ones next time.
We'd recommend you add Vecchio Osteria dei Poeti to your Volterra section. As a vegetarian, it gave the best veggie anti-pasta that I had in Italy - I had it there twice & both times it was different but great.
Rita Dahlie in Vancouver, BC Canada 11/25/2009
We travelled to the Castelrotto region on Nov 5th. We always have wonderful experiences staying at hotels that you recommend but when we got to Castelrotto,every hotel in town was closed. Luckily the TI ofice was open and the young woman sent us down the road 1.7km to Hotel Cristallo. We had a very clean, spacious room at a very reasonable rate. The hotel had a good pizzaria/restaurant and a full breakfastincluded. There was free parking, also. Tel. 39 0471 706 290. Fax 39 0471 704 626. Email:info@hotelcristallo.bz. Thank you, Mary Haack
Mary Haack in Stockton, Ca USA 11/21/2009
Bring an i-pod splitter and two headphones they work on rental audio guides so two can share one and keep pace together. Down load RS tours his Sistine Chapel was better than the Vaticans! Hit the high lights but try to see smaller churches which are very intimate. Work on simple language and phrases fro traveling and eating it is appreciated and fun.
Tom & Laura in Denville, NJ USA 11/18/2009
One hotel and one B&B. 1) Venice, Ca' San Marcuola. It was a last minute booking, but excellent choice. We had a large room for 140 euro and a comprehensive breakfast. It is 50 feet from the San Marcuola. vaporetto stop, and a straight 8-minute walk from the station. 2)In Firenze, we stayed at Accademia House B&B, via San Gallo 63 (with air conditioning). Would stay again. A very large room and most helpful host who spoke English. Breakfast is across the street at a cafe - so-so, but got us started. We bought orange juice and kept in the room refrigerator. Two weeks ahead of time Marco made reservations for the Uffizzi and Galleria Accademia. Restaurants: 1) Osteria Casa Vino, on a small side street just off via Roma, near the Accademia Filarmonica and about two blocks toward Castelvecchio from Piazza Bra. One of the best restaurants we came across on the entire trip. 2)VinOlio, San Sanorbi 126, Firenze. Three blocks from San Marco and almost at Piazza Nationale. The best meal we had and at a very reasonable price, 3)Il Cantastorie, via della Condotta, Firenze. Excellent food with old fashion service and at a reasonable price. Discovered Opera at St Marks Anglican Church in Firenze (just over Ponte Trinita) on the south bank of the Arno. Every other night, the company puts on a well known Italian opera, we saw La Boehme. It does it with a pianist and four to 5 opera singers handling the arias. The piano plays the choruses and interim music. The setting is intimate, and acoustics excellent. Price was 24 euro, and it starts at 21:15 and ends at 23:00. They do 6-7 different well-known operas, one every other day, Sept. through Nov. A second, free find, was 7 pm organ vespers at Santa Maria di Ricci on the Corso in Firenze: one hour of varied organ music in an excellent setting for the organ. Finally, gelato: the Gelateria la Dame, San Lorenzo corner of P. dei Mercato Centrale, had some of the best gelato we tasted (outside Steve's recommendation in Verona). We returned four times, including having a frappe at 2.50 euro with up to 3 flavors if we wanted.
Richard Raub in Portland, OR USA 11/17/2009
The guidebook to Italy was excellent. We went to Venice, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Florence and Rome. The Planet Hotel in Maranello is excellent stay for Ferrari fans -5 minute walk to the museum and just beside the factory. Their breakfasts were the best in Italy. 110euros double for a very spacious double room.
Mary Bruce in Surrey, BC Canada 11/16/2009
We used the audioguides for Rome and Florence and loved them! Guilotto's in Rome! The best.
Susan Beach in Forest Park, IL USA 11/16/2009
Rick gives Rimini short shrift. Yes, Rimini has 1500 hotels lining 18 Km of beach, more restaurants than you can shake a stick at, 100+ discos, etc., etc., which cater to the summer crowd. So, yes, I wouldn't consider Rimini in the summer. But off-season is very different. We were there Nov 4-6 2009, had a great hotel on the beach for 55 euro, navigated easily around town by bus, and had good food with wait staff happy for the business -- the food at Il Pesce Innamorato was some of the best seafood anywhere. The Tempio Malatestiana, Augustus arch, and Tiberius bridge are well worth seeing, and the art exhibitions at the Rocca (work from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston while we were there) and the archaeological museum are extensive and interesting, and the downtown is open and pleasant. As an off-season destination this was great ... and it was a perfect springboard to see San Marino too, which in November was pleasantly empty. Everything else in the Italy 2009 book is valuable and pretty much on the mark (we've enjoyed having it with us), but his one sentence evaluation of Rimini should be reconsidered.
Bob Fisher in Ellensburg, WA USA 11/15/2009
We took the bus from Sorrento to Rome arriving at Tiburtina station--which I remember Rick saying in the guidebook that he has never used. This was recommended by a a friend of mine who is from Sorrento. This was a great way to get from Sorrento to Rome without transferring at Naples. It was less expensive-16 euro one way (20 if you buy on the bus) and leaves from train station in Sorrento Taxi from Tibertino to hotels near forum was about 14 euro (2 people-3 small bags). The bus stops midway for coffee and bathroom stop. It is comfortable and clean!
Nancy Antin in Minneapolis, MN USA 11/14/2009
If you plan to visit the S'Antimo Abbey in Tuscany and want lunch nearby I can recommend Trattoria Basimondo which is very close to the abbey. The Ribolitta was the best I had on the trip. Not a real friendly staff, but the food is good and inexpensive. Outdoor dining is available.
Susan Jennings in Atlanta, USA 11/08/2009
Regarding GPS: Comment about errors in Sorrento earlier is right, and more broadly in Campania. We were misdirected in Agerola on SS 366 road, and again above Furore, again in Ravello, and again by not finding Pompeii correctly. I ended up in a supermercato car park. This was Hertz NeverLost. It is possibly due to blockage of satellite in mountains, or inaccuracies of map, or the switchbacks making the road seem superimposed on itself. We finally realized it is best for the short while to ignore the "where possible, make an authorized U-turn" message, as GPS rediscovers the road a bit further on. Regarding Medici Chapel: This is expensive for what one gets. The collapse of some marble and needed strengthening has much of the Chapel walls hidden behind scaffolding (Oct 2009) and greatly detracts from the gestalt. Also closed an hour earlier the day we went, perhaps a temp change. Restaurants: Way off the beaten track, above Furore, the La Gatta Cenerentola was excellent--best gnocci we found.
Dennis T in Atlanta, GA USA 11/05/2009
Hotel Arco d'Tolomei Papa Re Ristorante
Michele Dore in Napa, CA USA 11/04/2009
If you go to Perugia and are driving, you can park outside of town (we took the Madonna Alta exit)and take their mini- metro (a monorail) up to the last stop which is the old part of town. Not sure why there isn't much on Perugia- the center of town had great architecture. We were there during the EuroChocolate festival but would like to return when not so crowded. We also used our GPS to drive into Florence and parked across the river at the Piazzele Michelangelo. Free parking for the day and just a 20 minute walk to the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi. The towns of Spello and Montefalco. Perugina Chocolate factory tour just outside of Perugia in San Sisto. It's free and you can reserve a time in English. Free samples and the tour is actually quite interesting. Address and Phone number:Museo Storico Perugina Perugia Stabilimento Nestl Divisione Prodotti Dolciari Strada Pievaiola San Sisto (PG) (075) 527.66.35 or (075) 527.67.96
Susan Cramer in Lynnwood, WA USA 11/04/2009
This has been listed by a few others but we stayed for 5 nights at the Genius Loci Inn in Umbria. It was amazing! This was my 8th trip to Italy and this was one of the best places we've stayed so far. Easy driving to Perugia, Assisi, Civita Di Bagnoreggio, Florence, etc. Our room overlooked their vineyards as well as the towns of Spello and Montefalco. Michael is a very gracious host eager to provide helpful hints on the area. If you go, Montefalco has a lot of great places to eat right around the main piazza. Can't wait to return.
Susan Cramer in Lynnwood, WA USA 11/04/2009
I bought Italy 2009 and cannot find anything on Bologna. Is there a reason why such a major italian city was omitted from the book ? Thanks in advance for your response.
Charles Bourgeois in Montreal, QC Canada 10/31/2009
I write to encourage you to add to your list of recommended Rome guides. When my wife and I were planning our trip, we contacted the guides recommended in the book. For various reasons, none could work with us but a couple recommended, among others, Giovanna Terzulli. We engaged her and she guided us for about 1 1/2 days in Rome. She was wonderful. Knowledgeable, prepared, helpful, extremely pleasant to be with. She paid close attention to what we were interested in, and really worked to make the time useful and benefcial to us. She brought us places, and pointed out things that we would not have known to ask about. We think your readers would really benefit from having the chance to work with her. Her email is terzulli@tiscali.it
Peter Kierst in Albuquerque, NM USA 10/29/2009
Near Varenna: La Ca'Noeva B&B is a restored 200 year "new" house across from Il Caminetto with a view of Lake Como, living room, 3 bedrooms, 2 modern baths, fully stocked kitchen including washer, espresso maker, homemade jam, fresh eggs, cheese & so on. It was only 60 euros/nite double & includes pick up in Varenna (or just 10 euro taxi). Just steps away from cookery lessons & the best meal we had on our trip. What a jewel in a beautiful place!! Contact through Chef Moreno (owned by his son) www.ilcaminettoonline.com
Florence Tours: Wonderful tour of winery, olive press and castle followed by biking through Chianti, lunch at a family restaurant and a van ride up the steep hills you are too stuffed to ride. The entertainment starts with pick up in Florence & goes all day, but with great regard for safety & comfort for only 60 euros/person for everything. www.tuscany-biketours.com
Suzanne Chabon in Greensboro, NC USA 10/26/2009
Re "no #116 electric bus" in Rome, from S Redshaw in Clearlake, CA USA 05/27/2009: We found it last week (10/22/09) - it was listed on the bus stop (as shown on the bus map). The thing that may cause confusion: the one we took looked the size of the cabs, not a bus, and the only clue was the white cardboard sign, marked "#116", and laying flat on the dashboard when it pulled up to the sign. Frankly, if a woman had not gotten in first, we may not have 'risked' it!
The other point about this: we took the #116 in order to hook up with the #115 (which does look like a bus) at the San Gianicolo Terminal (spelling may be wrong). The #115 runs thru Janiculum Hill - short but interesting ride, which you can use to stop in Trastevere - with great views of Rome from the Piazza at top of hill. HOWEVER, you do not catch the #115 at the same stop you get off the #116 (in San Gianicolo), EVEN THOUGH #115 is shown on that bus stop sign. Thanks to a priest walking by, we found out that you continued out of the Terminal, up around the curving exit to the right, climbed the stairs and the #115 stops right at the top. Worth it.
Sage Heger in Holmes Beach, FL USA 10/25/2009
The Residenza Giotto B & B in Florence was a wonderful place to stay. It is right by the Duomo and has amazing views and was clean, bright and quite spacious. Giogio and Sylvia were more than accomodating and helpful. They even helped us print out our E tickets for our returning flight. This would be a great addition to Rick's book on Italy.
Also, while we were visiting Vernazza we wished several times that we had had a flashlight with us. When it was dark it was very hard to find our way up steep and uneven steps to get to our room. We talked to other travellers who expressed the same wish!
Heidi Fryman in minneapolis, Mn USA 10/21/2009
L'Ospite De Rossi, Verona. One can take Bus #'s 11, 12, 13, 51 from the train station directly to L'Ospite apartments. The bus stops just across the street; saves walking from Piazza Bra! Also, it would be worth mentioning that the only acknowledgment about the apartments is a brass plate next to the door. We had to call Federica to help us when we were standing nearly in front of it.
Mikel and Rolly Morrison in Seattle, WA USA 10/20/2009
Restaurant Ai Sconte, Venice--the freshest, tastiest seafood of the entire trip; great service & outdoor setting.
Kathy Healy in Manhattan Beach, CA USA 10/17/2009
Umbria! We stayed in S. Christina which is between Gubbio and Assisi and it was Beautiful. You do very little on Umbria and it is a region which you should really do more on.
Marietta Thomas in Lake Forest, IL USA 10/15/2009
The book was very useful.
Here is a Siena tip - there is a set of 6 escalators just inside Porto Fontebranda - if walking from that direction it saves a lot of climbing. You come out near the Doumo.
Ray Kirk in Thorburn , NS Canada 10/12/2009
Hotel Nazionale- via jacopo da levanto 20 Levanto, 19015 AG Italy Phone +39 0187808102 Most wonderful breakfast ever!! Homemade pastries, fruit, cloth tablecloths, espresso if you wanted it, clean rooms, very helpful staff, close to Cinque Terra. Loved it.
Diane in Salem, OR USA 10/11/2009
Thanks for the very helpful and specific info about train, bus, and metro travel. This was extremely helpful.
Lauren in Bloomington, MN USA 10/11/2009
we stayed at the Costa De Pini in Cervia, not covered in your book, it was really nice in Sept. probably horrible in the summer. It was a very nice resort with lots of amenities.
Beth in Lansing, MI USA 10/09/2009
Cafe Sorrento, a B&B on Corso Italia (right above the Hotel del Sol), with a balcony that opened up over the main street -- we spent hours watching the evening promenade there!
Laralyn Sasaki in Columbus, OH USA 10/09/2009
We found that many gas stations close between 12:30PM and 3 or 4PM which makes it extremely inconvenient when turning in a rental car at the airport and you need to fillup the tank.
We also found that several automated machines did not take U.S. based credit cards (Mag stripe) both at 24 hour gas stations and the Milan train station (automated TrenItalia ticket machines) - we tried multiple cards in the machines and they were denied, but went to the ticket counters, and they worked fine.
Dan in Carlsbad, CA USA 10/07/2009
We also loved Hotel Medici in Rome Via Flavia, 96 and Hotel Britannique 20 avenue Victoria 75001, in Paris
Margo in Cadegan, Canada 10/07/2009
Portovenere - your description does not do it justice. The site, the history, and the beauty of the village just leave me open-mouthed in awe. Arriving by ferry as you suggested is the best way to understand this outpost of Genoa.
Lynda Philipp in Fiddletown, CA USA 10/05/2009
The guidebooks were invaluable in making our 3 week honeymoon in Italy the best trip we've ever had. Bravo!
Terri in San Francisco, CA USA 10/04/2009
If driving to Orvieto and using the escalators to reach the top, be aware that they shut them down at 9:00 PM. You must then use the elevator to get back to the parking lot. The location is hard to find. It is located in the alley to the right of Restorante Le Grotto Del Funaro. Which is a wonderful splurge restaurant. You must walk down the alley to see it.
Jack & Sieni in Phoenix, Az USA 09/30/2009
Restaurant La Grotta, in Riomaggiore. It was right across the street from La Lampara. The service was really good, great decor and atmosphere, and absolutely great food.
Marina in Washington , DC USA 09/30/2009
I needed to travel to Naples from Sorrento for an early flight. I used the Monetti taxi service recommended in the book. It was great. I made a reservation via e-mail, and they happily picked me up at my hotel at 4:15am! (Cash only)
Mel in Kirkland, WA USA 09/30/2009
On the day we visited Civita di Bagnoregio in mid-September 2009, Maria was perched just outside her garden, happily directing visitors inside. She was sure to let us know that she was THE Maria from the Rick Steves book.
David Mack in Fort Collins, CO USA 09/29/2009
Wine tasting/tour at Argiano winery (www.argiano.net) mear Montalcino for 20 euros each. Ph 0577 839927. Our guide, Alicia, spoke excellent English, and the tour was a real treat. The cellars beneath the lovely Villa date from the 15th century, and the grounds are lovely.
Restaurant just outside the walls of Volterra: Da Bado, Borgo San Lazarro 9, phone 0588.86.477. Excellent local trattoria on the S658 Florence-Siena road (but just a SHORT walk down hill outside of the city gates) run by two amiable brothers (with mother in the kitchen). Delicious (awesome!) bistecca alla Fiorentina!!!
Pamela Stutts in Virginia Beach, VA USA 09/27/2009
We love Rick Steves and coming from such a young country as USA we found the guide book perfect for every situation. Surfing on your website we found a company that made our vacation in Rome, a memorable one. Miles&Miles toured us yesterday through all the highlights of the city, sharing with us the great history of this city and tips of simple roman life with so much passion and knowledge that we were amazed.
This is company that we recommed to Rick Steves to consider for the book. We Love your Book!!
Josh & Kathy
Josh Daclair in College Station , TX USA 09/18/2009
There is a funicular at Castellammare di Stabia that takes on up to a spectacular view over Naples and the bay. It has limited hours outside of the summer, but is worth stopping on the Circumvesuviana to ride up and back down.
Mike in LA, CA USA 09/18/2009
We found a small, delicious restaurant called "Magnolila" on Campo de Fiori in Rome. It had fabulous service, delightful servers, reasonable prices and the best Spaghetti al ragu. We also discovered and went on the "Angels and Demons" tour. It was fascinating and our guide(Michael) certainly educated us on fact, fiction and history! Much fun!
Maria Neatherton in Palm Desert, CA USA 09/13/2009
The Italy Guide was a big help. WIll never travel to Europe again with Rick in hand!!
Jim in Freedman, MA USA 09/07/2009
Hi! I am a single female traveler learning Italian in New York and just returned from Roma, Catanzaro and Sicily. In Rome (this wasn't in your guidebook) but I thought the Basilica dei SS Ambroio e Carlo on the Via del Corso near Via Delle Croce was spectacular. The Stations of the Cross were wonderful. Also, for people that cannot eat dairy Della Palma Roma at Via Della Maddalena 19/23 has Soya Gelato. The best gelato however is artisinal. It makes a world of difference. I was in Calabria for 2 weeks which isn't in your guidebook but had fun with a local italian and friends on the beach in Montauro and had the best Linguini with white clam sauce in my life on this little beach restaurant serving locals there. It really wouldn't draw only english speaking tourists since no english really is spoken and it is all local italians on the beach and that is all there is to do other than a few day trips, a car is needed since no public transport but it was a great opportunity to see real italians. If you ever want any info on this part of Italy I'd be happy to research it since I have a connection and learning Italian.
Mary Catherine Donnelly in Brooklyn, NY USA 09/01/2009
Discovered a little jewel of a B & B near the center of Bologna called Casa Ilaria. The owner, Ilaria, is a gourment cook in the Bolognese style, accomadations are clean & bright and she is very friendly, gracious and helpful. We stayed with her in May of 2008 and have reservations for October 2009.
Jody Padgett in Granby, MA USA 08/26/2009
We are big fans of Rick---watch and record all his tv show on PBS. Have several of your books. Recently bought Italy 2009 for a Sept trip. Was surprised there was nothing in on San marino. Your little country tv show sparked our interest. Traveling by auto---is there parking there? Best place to stay? Any poop?
PAUL ROBERTSON in Conroe, TX USA 08/21/2009
Villa Lara Hotel (Nello) Via delle Cartiere 1 84011 Amalfi (SA) 089.8736358 info@villalara.it Wonderful view, wonderful staff, lovely experience. SMALL!
Christina Anderson in Hacienda Heights, CA USA 08/19/2009
Well, this is my first time come across and use your guide book. Information provided are so useful, of which made my trip so much easier and nicer. Many thanks!
Anita Szeto in Hong Kong, 08/17/2009
The Agriturismo "Masseria Santa Lucia", Agnone, Italy. Emma - the inn keeper - made everyone feel like family. She did all the cooking, jamming, olive oiling, etcetc...the food was fantastic and abundant. A lovely pool, beautiful countryside, and an infrequently visited spot in Italy with lovely small villages on every hill top. A wonderful side trip in Agnone city the bell foundry. Learn the amazing craft and skill involved in making most the bells purchased in Italy by the Catholic Church - and yes, there are bells for sale.
Stephen S. Anderson in Hacienda Heights, CA USA 08/16/2009
Assisi Retreat Center For a silent stay next to Assisi this is the best. Here you really get the peace of Assisi. The contact info. is www.AssisiRetreats.org Bruce & Ruth Davis via Ponte Grande 71, Assisi 39.349.499.1293
Lara Becker in San Francisco, Ca USA 07/28/2009
New restaurant on the harbour front in Riomaggiore just opposite and down from La Lanterna new and v stylish, excellent service and in a better location than La Lanterna. Also La Mala in Vernazza now offer 10€ discount per night if you pay in cash . Discovered a beautiful converted Abbey in Moneglia (central for both Cinque Terra and Santa Margherita Ligure) called the Abbadia San Giorgio: perfect for romantic honeymoons and delicious breakfasts.
Sazia Samad in London, UK 07/27/2009
i have to agree with Helen Wiant in Cupertino, CA USA 07/08/2009...we also stayed with pietra at Haus Silbernagl in Castelrotto from july 5th through the 9th. Contact info: gsilber@tin.it she is a wonderful hostess, great spacious and clean rooms with mountain or valley balconies, a pool for after hiking relaxing, and a great hearty breakfast (the best yogurt of the trip). pietra recommended a restaurant just up the street called cafe liftstuberl...with amazing veal, pork, and wine. try the spinach dumplings...we had them every night we went and it's just a short walk back to pietra's. one tip. if you are driving a car to the alpe di siusi, you can drive to the parking lot where the cable car leaves instead of taking the shuttle bus to the top. Both cost 13 euros. or you can drive to the top until 9 AM. and park for 13 euros, the same cost as the bus or cable car, and stay as late as you want. after 5 PM you can also drive to the top and park for no cost. in the summer, you still have a few hours to walk the trails, or stay later, eat diner at one of the hotels and enjoy the beautiful night sky.
art tipaldi in wilbraham, ma USA 07/23/2009
We continue to thank Rick Steves readers for choosing our corner of paradise in central Umbria and Genius Loci Country Inn. What a wonderful group you are! October is a beautiful month with the vineyards turning yellow and red. Enjoy the beauty at this time of year at LOW SEASON prices.
Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, ITALY 07/21/2009
Bar Central in Monterossa. Best coffee on the trip.
Jim Jamieson in Eugene, OR USA 07/20/2009
We just returned from a weeks vacation in Rome, Florence and Venice and had an amazing time, thanks to Rick Steves! My husband and I decided that if you do not have his guidebook, you are not bringing your A-game to Europe... We calculated that we saved over 9 hrs waiting in lines during our one week trip due to his advice. Thats an entire day! Our favorite tip was when we visited St. Mark's basilica in Venice. There was over a 2hr wait in the 99 degree blazing sun. We took Rick's advice and checked our admittedly small backpack around the corner, for FREE, and then completely skipped the line with our bag ticket and walked right in to the basilica. Our jaws both dropped in amazement....we couldn't believe it worked! But it did and Rick has never let us down. We also loved all the audio guides that we had dowloaded to our iPod prior to leaving the U.S. they are informative and interesting and make the sights so much more enjoyable. They are a must have for any traveler! Thank you Rick for making our trip the memorable adventure that we had dreamed of!
Jennifer in Worcester, MA USA 07/20/2009
Ostaria Simson Castello 6316 30122 Venezia 041 5289929 (in front of Locanda la Corte) Restaurant. Proprietor speaks practically no English, but food it great.
Iris Posin in Deerfield Beach, FL USA 07/19/2009
Trattoria Ponte Vecchio - excellent service, friendly staff, best canneloni I've ever tasted, prices seemed norm (and they didn't try to get a tip). Santa Trinita Gellateria, quite friendly, and excellent portions for the min. 2 Euro - Pitti Palace side of Santa Trinita bridge southwest corner. Check out Via Tornabuoni N. 1, a Florence Hotel. 12 rooms and a view on the roof to "die" for. Newly renovated within the past 2 years.
Christine Elias in Vancouver, Wa USA 07/17/2009
We found a lovely restaurant in Assisi, called La Lanterna (Via S. Rufino, 39 - 06081) - it was close to our fabulous, Rick Steves recommended hotel, Hotel Ideale, and the food and service were fantastic!
Also, we spent several days in Trento - my husband had a meeting there. We thoroughly enjoyed the small town, it's festival, Duomo, the special exhibits on the Council of Trent at the Diocesan Museum, and the Egyptian exhibit at the castle, as well as the archaeological museums and the sparkling winery tours! Unfortunately there is very little on this town in The R.S. Italy Book - I know he can't be everywhere, but maybe, this little gem is worth exploring for a future edition?
Marianne Greer in Saskatoon, SK Canada 07/13/2009
Trieste was lovely.I would go there again. Also, I would let folks know how easy it is to get to Lipica, Slovenia from Trieste, without a car, by public bus from Trieste central bus station to Sezana, Slovenia, and then taxi to Lipica (to see the Lipizzaners there).
M. Nelson in Federal Way, WA USA 07/09/2009
Sir, please check out this day driver/guide for trips out of Florence or Rome. His name is Thierry and may be reached at reservations@driving-guide-tuscany.com or (039) 335 657-5008. Exceptional quality, drove back an hour each way to return a lost billfold for no charge, trained tour guide, very good English, no topics were out-of-bounds, arranged a fabulous lunch in the Italian countryside for our party of six, and very, very cost effective, excellent equipment, in our case a van. Communicated via email five or six times before we left for our trip, very prompt. Simply fabulous. Dr. Robert Kiner
Dr. Robert Kiner in Sioux Falls, SD USA 07/09/2009
Il Latini, Via del Palchetti 6R 055 210916, You can e-mail them at just Il Latini.it and they will replay with confirmation but not quickly. Also loved La Porta in Monticchiello near Pienza, 0578 755163, closed last weeks in June.
Jeanette Finlon in Seattle, WA USA 07/09/2009
Il Latini, Via del Palchetti 6R 055 210916, You can e-mail them at just Il Latini.it and they will replay with confirmation but not quickly. Also loved La Porta in Monticchiello near Pienza, 0578 755163, closed last weeks in June.
Jeanette Finlon in Seattle, WA USA 07/09/2009
We stayed in a wonderful B&B in Castelrotto called Haus Silbernagl. The room and hotel in general were lovely and so incredibly clean -- we even felt comfortable doing some stretches on the floor after hiking. Rooms were spacious and excellent value with great quality breakfasts. Hostess Petra is always available with advice and just conversation. We highly recommend this for inclusion in your book. Contact info: gsilber@tin.it 0039 0471 706 699 Toni's Pizza has great food (not just pizza) and very very reasonable.
Helen Wiant in Cupertino, CA USA 07/08/2009
LAKE GARDA : Took the train from Venice to Lake Garda. took about 90 minutes . We were able to walk from the train station to the hotel . The lake surrounded by mountains is amazing . The train station is Peschiera . Stayed at the Hotel Bell'arrivo , right on the lake . It appears to be a family vacation area . Lots of good reasonably priced restaurants all right outside the door . Took the ferry to Sermione , saw the castle & Roman ruins (Grotto of Cattulus). Hotel Bell'arrivo at Peschiera Del Garda 95 euro per night . After the lake took the train to Verona . Stayed at Hotel Armondo . The hotel was renovated in April of this year , it is all new & modern inside . 95 euro a night when no opera with a very nice breakfast included . 2 minute walk from the Arena .
Mike Dempsey in Westminster, Md USA 07/07/2009
The guidebooks for Switzerland and Italy were our constant companions. Rick's audioguides on our Ipod were also a welcome addition to our trip and added a great deal.
Barry Blodgett in Cary, IL USA 07/07/2009
Steve, your books on Italy and Rome were INVALUABLE. We carried them everywhere.
One of the greatest tips you gave us: Use the Through Eternity tours. The Vatican Museum tour was FANTASTIC BECAUSE OF OUR GUIDE....her name was Marle Robinson. She didn't stop after 4 hours but continued(at our request) for ANOTHER 4 hours! She was an art major so she was so knowledgeable and made the Vatican art literally come alive. It was the best part of our weeks in Italy. Thank you for recommending that tour group.
Virginia in Batavia, IL USA 07/01/2009
After reading about it on roninrome.com, we visited Aqueduct Park, a short walk from the Giulio Agricola A-line stop. It was amazing to see this massive aqueduct without any tourists or crowds, just Romans out jogging and cycling - oh, and a fashion photo shoot taking place too.
We got slices of pizza on the way from the Metro had a picnic before walking around the aqueduct at sunset. It was one of our favorite parts of Rome.
This site may be in the Rome guidebook, but I think it is worth a mention in the Italy book.
Jack Martin in Lawrence, KS USA 06/28/2009
On Amalfi Coast in May 2009 -- There were restaurants that set the tables with small cordial glasses in which they'd poured no more than an inch of wine (some not even that much). As teetotallers, we did not order wine or even taste the supposed sample, but were still charged 3 euros each for the drinks. Left a rather bad taste! After first experience, we told servers to remove the wine -- period. Also -- more and more, we have found that museums and churches in Italy want exact amounts in euros for admissions. If ticket sellers have to make even small change, there are frowns and hissy fits (amusing until people start to stare). We actually had a church in Florence turn us away because they could not make change and we wouldn't overpay. What a (beautiful!) country!
Deborah in North Port, FL USA 06/27/2009
I returned last Friday June 19th 2009, from a trip to Italy. We used your book for every location we visited and found it invaluable. Thank you for writing such an accurate and in depth guide. I am hoping that you might consider adding a new Bed and Breakfast to your next book. We stayed for two nights in a small town just west of Firenze. It was just outside the village of Margine Cozzile, next door to Montecatini terme. We loved Montecatini and our accomadations at CASA DILETTA were wonderful. Our hostess was Tiziana and she was most hospitable. She was ready with tea and chocolate and served us in the garden with minutes of our arrival and we thoroughly enjoyed our time there. From Montecatini we took the train into Firenze twice. We would certainly stay with tiziana again if given the opportunity and I would be happy to recommend it to any friends who plan to visit Italy. Hopefully you will visit Cada Diletta yourself and see how lovely it is. I should add that I have stayed in a number of Bed and Breakfast homes in the past as well as some very lovely hotels. This experience truly added to our Italy trip. Thank you Pamela Staley
Pamela Staley in Gormley, On Canada 06/23/2009
In Venice, we ate at Trattoria Da Sandro and expecially liked it. Reasonable, good service, delicious food and wine. Address is San Polo, 1473 Campiello dei Meloni. Tel -5235964, email - bardasandro@tiscali.it Our favorite stop in Italy was Monterosso. We stayed at the Villa Steno. Can't say enough about how great it is. We had the best meal of the trip at a small family run restaurante at Via Vittorio Emanuale, Restaurante Pizzeria Ely. Tel - 0187/818206. Loved it.
Mary in Tucson, AZ USA 06/22/2009
We are in Naples right now, and have used Rick's guidebook to find our way around. While there was no doubt we are out of our comfort zone, the atmosphere in Naples is electric with energy and life. We found no reason for concern. I kept looking for the boogie man, but he never showed up. In fact, we had so many helpful people provide us with direction that we had no trouble at all. Except we were not able to find the pizza duo in Naples where it all started. We found the street, and we walked for a long time, but we were never able to find the correct street for the original pizza place. We did however have some amazing pizza in Naples anyway. Thanks for the self guided tour of Pompeii and all the other tips that worked for us. Keep up the great work!
Barbara Piper in Kelowna , BC Canada 06/18/2009
The American Express Office in Florence is actually closed down permanently. Stayed at Hotel Logaitii Serviti in Florence- awesome. Also stayed at Hotel Seittmo Cielo in Sorrento- also awesome. Thanks to you we felt comfortable traveling on our own to italy!
Kristi Flax in Rose Hill, KS USA 06/17/2009
We stayed at the most amazing agriturismo in Umbria called Borgo Di Carpiano. It is set in a castle that took 7 years to restore. The owners Ricardo and Marilisa Parisi and their friend Alessandro were the most amazing hosts. We left feeling that we were their very good friends after staying there 3 nights. The location was beautiful and it was one of the nicest places we have ever stayed in anywhere. The food was gourmet. It was very definately the highlight of our trip to Italy. info@borgodicarpiano.com www.borgodicarpiano.com
Val Thomson in Edmonton, AB Canada 06/16/2009
Best pizza is in Vico Equense at Pizza a Metro. The crust and cheese(they drain the water out of the cheese, similiar to how it is done in the US) is different then most other pizza places in Italy.
Scott Tom in San Ramon, CA USA 06/12/2009
Bologna
Louise in Perth, WA Australia 06/11/2009
Driver Aldo Esposito in Sorrento (www.acprofessionaltours.com): extremely knowledgeable about entire area, excellent English, very professional, lots of fun, and cheaper than driver recommended by Rick Steves for the Sorrento area
Nancy Pourciau in Appleton, WI USA 06/09/2009
We recommend the addition of a wonderful restaurant two blocks from Pisa Central Train Station. It is Ristorante Lo Schiaccianoci, Via Vespucci, 104/A, 5612 Pisa, Tel 050 210 24. It had a wonderful romantic atmosphere, and was spread over several small rooms in a house with beautiful furnishings. The food was excellent with first courses around 10 Euros and second courses less than 15 euros. The desserts ( four euros) were extraordinary. The proprietor was an older gentleman who spoke English. The "house wine" was a wonderful bottle of Chianti (12 Euros) taken from one of the shelves that spread throughout the restaurant. Pisa Central was a very convenient first or last night stop for travellers flying out of Pisa. It is convenient to the sights in Pisa, but also was a great location for day trips to Cinque Terra and Lucca.
Ted and Tricia from Park City, Utah
Ted Browne in Park City, UT USA 06/05/2009
We were just in Florence and ate at this outstanding restaurant called Acqua al 2. The sister restaurant is in San Diego, CA. To me, this restaurant is a do not miss. When you go order the pasta sampler for your table. The chefs surprise you and choose 5 varieties of pasta on their menu for you to try. Follow your appetizer with the Blueberry Steak. So amazing!!! Best dining experience I had on my recent trip to Italy. The staff is really helpful and speaks enough English to help you with the menu. House wine is also good. Try to make a reservation or go on the earlier side.
Also we traveled to Milan and stayed in an outstanding hotel. Great value for the money. 95 euro for a double including breakfast & taxes. Antica Locanda Leonardo, it's run by a very friendly family. There is English speaking staff. It's a 15 min walk from the Duomo but is right next to the Santa Maria de Grazie church where the Last Supper is. It's right on the tram line to the Duomo and also is close to the Sfroza Castle, the Cadorna metro stop and Malpensa Express.
Zoe in Port Washington, NY USA 06/01/2009
I couldn't find generic feedback, so I will submit under Italy, one of the four countries we visited on a whirlwind tour for our Nephew's wedding in Pienza. I had rick's Germany/Austria book along, and it was priceless. We stayed in Bacharach, Rothenburg and Fussen using Rick's suggestions. I can't praise him enough. In Italy we ran into problems because I had not packed the entire book as we had pre-arranged accommodations for the wedding. BIG mistake. In any further travels, Rick Steves guidebooks will be a must.
Megan Mangiaracina in South Lake Tahoe, ca USA 06/01/2009
Discovered a wonderful neighborhood trattoria just around the corner from Hotel "The Best" in Milan... Pane Al Pane, Vino Al Vino... Via Tadino, 48 20124 Milano Tel. 02.2046300 This is not your basic tourist stop... its strictly locals... they were friendly, helpful, food was fab... wine was better... and 40 euros for dinner for us both (water, wine (not house), antipasto & 2 primi piatto). Gotta check this out. --- B&B "Le Cannelle" in Fiesole... can't believe this place isn't mentioned... The owner Sara Corsi is a jewel. via A Gramsci 52-54-56 50014 Fiesole 0555978336 --- Think I've fallen for the Aperol Spritz
Duane Henderson in Chico, CA USA 05/31/2009
Cassino and Praiano were the absolute highlights of our 14 day trip through Italy. Hotels were modern and spacy and not expensive. In Praiano's Hotel Holiday all rooms (with private balcony) looked out over the Mediteranian.
Henny van Dijk in Houston, TX USA 05/31/2009
Villa Marsili - Cortona - Great Hotel! My husband and I just finished a three-week trip through Italy with our Rick Steves‘ book as a constant companion. We visited the Cinque Terre, Lucca, Siena, Rome and Cortona and want to mention a wonderful hotel in Cortona, not currently covered by the 2008 Italy book.
The Villa Marsili (about $125 a night (dollars)) is a newer hotel just outside the city gates. It is clean and spacious and the hotel staff is charming, English speaking and helpful. We had a large room with a good-sized private bath, television, mini-bar, air conditioning and available Internet (at a cost). The included breakfast was certainly the best we had in any hotel in this price range. In the evening, complimentary drinks and hors d’oeuvres were served in the rose garden, giving guests a chance to mingle and share travel tips.
I really can’t say enough about the staff and their helpfulness. Whether it was getting directions, arranging a cab, or printing out the train schedule, they were always not just friendly, but engaged and charming. Julia and Luana were particularly helpful.
Judy Petersen in Sammamish, WA USA 05/28/2009
Italy 2009, I recommend adding that the red double decker busses are the best way for seeing the sites in Rome for most efficient use of time. You pay one fee per day (I think it was #29 or so) and see the sites getting off and on where you want. I spent two days in Rome and bought the Roma Pass which was not much value to me because I did not visit museums-I bought it for the free buss pass. I wanted to use the elettrico busses 116 and 117 but in two days never say these busses.
S Redshaw in Clearlake, CA USA 05/27/2009
Please put the information on every page in LARGE LETTERS that people have to stamp their train tickets to avoid fines. Well maybe not every page but often. We took the train from our cruise ship to Milan met the only unfriendly, unhappy and angry person in all of Italy, the conductor on the train. This woman went through the train and targeted Americans. Charged us Euo 50 apiece. All the locals on the train spant most of the trip giving her a hard time but she wouldn't bend. The locals even took up a collection for one couple who didn't have any EUO. Is that great or what. We paid and decided to not let one unhappy person spoil our trip but it was EUO100 less that we had to spend on the local economy. I did find the info one place in your book about stamping train tickets near the back after we got back. Guess I was absorbing too much of the great stuff to remember. I think a few more times in the book or a stronger reminder would be good We used your guide recommendation, Lorenza Scorti, in Milan. She was the best. Very professional, personable and informed. Made the history and sights come alive. She had good recomendation for lunch. We used her for a full day to the Lake Como area and half day in Milan. She was well worth the money and went out of her way to be a help to us. Even came to the hotel one day to pick us up after we had had problems using the public transportation as there were no signs in English in the Milan Metro stations. This was our first trip in Italy on our own (with Rick Steves' help). We took the train to Rome after our three days in Milan. We loved that too. Locals in both cities were great. So willing to help. We would just ask if a person could speak English and they helped us. Some even went out of their way to take us where we wanted to go! Maybe it was the look of confusion on this slightly old ladies face! My husband and I hadn't been too impressed with Italy on our only other trip, a tour, but using your book and seeing everything on our own made us fall in love with Italy and its people. After this trip in April this year we decided to spend three more days in Rome in Nov. before our transatlantic cruise. Of course your book will be our guide! Thank you
Janice Humphrey in Colorado Springs, CO USA 05/26/2009
Bus transportation in Sorrento. There is a blue colored bus which costs one Euro. The ticket is purchased sometimes from the driver but also from a guy with a handful of tickets outside the bus. This is the bus the locals use. Then there is the orange and white buses. You can buy a 2 Euro, 45 minute ticket or a 1.1 Euro, 60 minute ticket. My advice. After getting off the train in Sorrento, go downstairs to the tobacchi and buy a handful of 1.1 Euro tickets. The drivers on the orange and white buses do not sell tickets anymore. In the tobacchi shops or newstand shops downtown, you are not offered the choice of a 1.1 Euro ticket unless you insist on it. Our B&B landlady told us the 2 Euro ticket can be used on any bus in and around Sorrento including Amalfi and Positano. The 1.1 Euro ticket is only good in Sorrentino. We found the train tobacchi shop to be the only reliable place to buy tickets. The shops downtown frequently run out of tickets.
Robert Allen in Rapid City, SD USA 05/26/2009
Rick, Recently we stayed at the Hotel Annalena in Florence. It's a great property across from the Boboli Gardens @ Via Romana 34. Reasonable prices, rooms overlooking a lovely garden, breakfast included this is a bargain at 109 euros. Hotel Annalena Via Romana 34 50125 Florence 39055222402 info@hotelannalena.it
Gary Swett in Port Ludlow, Wa USA 05/19/2009
We traveled in Northern Italy this past February using Rick's book. Only difficulty with the book was finding accommodations that were open that time of year. So, on our own we found La Locanda di Colombo - via XXV Aprile 12 canc. - Santa Margherita Ligure - Tel.: 0185/293129 - Fax: 0185/291937. The owners, Massimiliano & Raffaella were delightful! The room was clean and contemporary. Best thing was dinner and breakfast at their restaurant adjoining the lodging. Wonderful dinner prepared by French chef and our choice of anything on an extensive menu for breakfast. PLEASE CHECK THE LODGING & RESTAURANT FOR INCLUSION IN YOUR NEXT BOOK!!!
Meredith Kupferman in Rancho Murieta, CA USA 05/16/2009
We recently stayed at a bed and breakfast in Lucca, Italy that I'd like for you to at least consider adding next year. It has only been open a year; owned by an Irish couple (the wife's grandmother lived in Lucca). It is inside the walls, and really charming (great views). The host met us at the train station, and gave us a guided tour on the way back to his place. He even came out and shared a glass of wine with us! It has five bedrooms, three baths. It is up on the third floor, and of course, no elevator, but he did carry MY bag up (my husband had to fend for himself!). The name is B and B Evalina, Via Streghi 12, 55100 Lucca, Italy. Website: www.bedandbreakfastevalina.it, and the email is guesthouseevelina@yahoo.it. We paid 60 euros for the night (and my husband got to talk Irish music with Dessie...).
Barb DeArmond in Kansas City, MO USA 05/15/2009
This is about Italy...We had a question about bidet towels.....why are they the same thinness as the face towels? My sister accidentally used a bidet towel to wash her face. Oops! Also, in the showers there are these long strings attached to what looks like an outlet. I seem to remember you saying in your books that there are long strings above toilets to help you get up....is this the same for the shower?
Gina in Los Angeles, CA USA 05/11/2009
The road from A1 to Volterra was better than the Crete Senese for a Tuscany drive IMHO.
Thomas Chamberlin in Salem, OR USA 05/07/2009
For anyone traveling to Italy in mid to late April, pay attention to the yearly Settimana della Cultura, week of culture where state musueums are free or only cost the reservation charge. We loved getting into the Coliseum and museum on the Palentine, the Accademia in Venice just by walking in, and the Uffizi and Accademia in Florence as well as the Borghese Gallery in Rome with only the reservation charge.
Lorraine New in Troy, MI USA 05/05/2009
Some restaurants and shops in Rome were converting our credit card slips from euros to dollars at an exchange rate favorable to them. Is this a growing trend? I would like your thoughts on this practice. Thanks.
ben caputo in arlington heights, il USA 04/30/2009
I have been to Italy twice and am going back this summer. Italy is without a doubt my favourite country. I almost hate to give you this gem of a hotel, but you should really tell people about Casa della Palma in Rome. It is located at Via dei Sabelli and the telephone number is 39 06 4454264. It is spotlessly clean with huge rooms. Air conditioning, marble bathrooms and prices are soft. On their web site a quad was listed for approximately 150 Euros and I got it for 99 Euros by paying cash. Alessandro and his staff are extremely polite and spend the first 30 minutes going over transportation in Rome, where the bus stops are, how to get metro tickets, where to eat, internet cafe, etc. They also have a nice little courtyard that is very secluded. The only "drawback" last time we were there, was sitting in the courtyard listening to a family party in the next building, and not being invited.
I also have the privilege of taking school groups to Europe and I have one tip that I give the students that I think a lot of adult could use. I always tell my students that there will always be a glich in the trip. When that happens you are allowed two minutes to be upset and then its a grand adventure. Those problems you have on a trip are the best stories when you get home. My daughter had her suitcase stolen off the train in Rome. As she was about to cry I said, "The lengths you'll go to to get new clothes." It brightened the day and we still laugh when we recall going to an outdoor market in Florence to buy her new Italian clothes.
In closing, thanks for writing wonderful guide books and giving North American audiences (I'm Canadian) a change to experience Europe close to the ground.
Erin Sawchuk in Hythe, AB Canada 04/28/2009
i must agree with colin about the beauty and joys of piedmonte. we are avid rick fans, but also look for other areas to use the rick template. we spent 3 nights in Alba at the very comfortable villa la favotita (www.villalafavorita.it). the freshly made breakfasts were great. the rates were reasonable. our room came with a small balcony where we sat each night and looked over alba, la morra, and the alps in the distance and drank roberta's delicious nebbiolo d'alba wine. roberta set up winery tours at fontanafredda to sample their barolos. we traveled to la morra and, at roberta's suggestion, had a wonderful dinner l'osteria del vigniaolo, overlooking the valley. it was so good, that we made reservations for the next night. we has a wonderful lunch in the tiny town of barolo at the locanda della posta di barolo where the owner never stopped pouring his barolo for us. he asked if we had ever tried barolo chinata, the late harvest barolo. when we siad no, he opened a bottle and began pouring that for us. total cost 40 euros for both. i highly recommend a three night stay at roberta's to fully experience the alba life. the hilly vineyards are perfectly manicured and give a drive through tuscany a run for its beauty. we have also travelled to Parma three times and this is another italian location offering a gem of an experience. the city offers great museums shopping, and of course food. eat where the locals eat, the trattoria rigoletto. go outside the city of parma on a castle drive. there are at least 30 around parma. each little town, san secondo, sissa, roccobianca, and the spa town of salsomaggiore terme. visiting these smaller italian towns makes you feel like a local, not a tourist being herded through the sites that attract the huge crowds. thanks rick for giving my wife and i a european travel template we have used since 1999. We travel to blues festivals in europe each year, i cover these festivals for national blues publications, and rick's tips have been useful throughout scandinavia, iceland, france, switzerland, and italy. europe is crazy for american blues and these make great additions to a rick steves adventure.
art tipaldi in wilbraham, ma USA 04/28/2009
The bed and breakfast "Romantica Pucci" in Bagnoregio, near Civita, was a wonderful place to stay. Their restaurant served the best food we had in Italy, and their rooms were comfortable and very nice. I would recommend spending the night here, and walking to Civita in the morning, rather than staying in Orvieto.
Jeanette Rollinger in Visalia, CA USA 04/27/2009
I just bought the 2009 Italy book and not one mention of Sicily.
Larry Stariha in WoodSTOCK, GA USA 04/27/2009
I just bought the 2009 Italy book and not one mention of Sicily.
Larry Stariha in WoodSTOCK, GA USA 04/27/2009
In the guidebook - under English Church Services, p. 40 - you only mention San Zulian Church, you don't mention St. George's Anglican Church over in the Dorsoduro - http://www.stgeorgesvenice.com/ - it's a delightful little church with a traditional Anglican/Church of England service and a congregation made up of British and American ex-pats, students, and the occasional tourist. I attended a Morning Prayer service there one Sunday in 2004. The service is at 10:30 AM and generally followed by a coffee hour. The full address is St George's Anglican Church Campo San Vio, Venice - it's between the Accademia and the Guggenheim museums. There's a map on their website.
Lydia in Bethesda, MD USA 04/26/2009
Our dog-eared Rick Steves guide book to Italy made our trip enjoyable and easy even for us first time visitors. An unexpected discovery was how helpful the book was when I got home and had to decipher over 800 digital photos and remember the names of what i was looking at. Your book really came in handy to help me remember and look like i really knew what i was talking about on my flickr photo site! Thanks Rick!
Luisa Craige-Sherman in Bolton Landing, NY USA 04/19/2009
Using the podcasts for Venice, Florence and Rome was a great idea. We learned so much!
Erica Blankenbehler in San Jose, CA USA 04/19/2009
LOVED THE LIME TREE - LONDON TERRIBLE AWFUL OCEANIA HOTEL ROME- NICE PEOPLE BUT AWFUL BREAKFAST THE WORST NOTHING BUT MEDICORE PASTRIES NO REAL FOOD NO CEREAL NO PROTEINS...WHICH MEANT THAT WE HAD TO FIND BREAKFAST OUTSIDE OF HOTEL WHICH DOES NOT MAKE IT A BED AND BFAST. ALSO NO BFAST NOT EVEN COFFEE TILL 8A - WE WE GONE BY 8A AND MOST TOURS START AT 9A OR 930A SO YOU DONT HAVE TIME TO STAY FOR THE AWFUL BFAST ANYWAY NOT A SINGLE DAY W-HOT WATER IN SHOWER OUT OF 4 DAYS LOUD - WE HAD A ROOM FACING INSIDE AND YOU HEARD EVERY CONVERSATON EVERY DOOR CLOSE THE ELEVATOR EVERYTIME IT MOVED AWFUL...IM USUALLY IN SYNC W RICK BUT NOT ON THIS HOTEL ....WOULD NOT GO BACK WOULD NEVER RECOMMEND
NANCY in SM, CA USA 04/17/2009
Is there any current information on Sicily- There is none in teh 2009 Italy country guide. Where can I find info on Sicily? This is my 20th trip to europe over the past 30 years and for the past 15 i have never been without on of your guide books in hand. This is making planning this trip difficult and any help you can provide would be appreciated.
Jerry Ferlisi in Birmingham, AL USA 04/12/2009
I found the all time best gelato in Italy. In Florence there is Vestri and they have homemade chocolates, coffee and gelato. The chocolate is great but the gelato is the BEST. It is around the corner from Vivoli which is ok compared to Vestri. They are located on 11 Borgo Albizi - it is a must if you love gelato. tel. 39 055 234 0374
Ellen in Anaheim, ca USA 04/11/2009
In Venice, it would be worthwhile to mention the Baroque Concert by Interpreti Veneziani by name. They are the ensemble that plays at the San Vitale Church (Chiesa San Vidal) just north of the Accademia Bridge. Their concerts are absolutely amazing. For more info, their website is: www.interpretiveneziani.com
Brent in Saskatchewan, Canada 04/08/2009
We will recommended to you a very good restaurat call, La Nave Rossa - Porto Venere "Fraction Le Grazie" SP/Italy
Todine.net in Milano, Lo Italy 04/07/2009
Why do you not add Torino and the Piemonte region in your books? Have you ever experienced going up the hanging elevator in the Mole Antonelliana? What about getting a beautiful view up by the Basilica di Superga as well as taking the funicular from Sassi? The Shroud of Turin? The beautiful baroque buildings built by the Savoys? How about the regeneration of the FIAT plant in Lingotto? And what about the delectable chocolates from the place that brought us Nutella? Don't forget about the many ski towns like Sestriere, Bardonecchia, Sauze de Oulx that were one host locations to the 2006 Winter Olympics! The region is also home to Asti and Barolo, home to a number of wineries and delicious eateries!
I cringed when people were reading about the Cinque Terre in your books while in Milano. While nice, I would ask them if they would visit Torino and their was response was "No, it's not covered in this book." I think it's about time you add this beautiful section in your book because many visitors who rely on your books are truly missing out on a city and region that should not be denied!
Colin Carandang in Houston, TX USA 04/05/2009
Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle- It's down below the restaurant you recommended (next to the beach). The food was great, especially the bruschetta and the staff very attentive. Positano was just as described. We had a wonderful relaxing day wandering around (actually up and down!)
Suzy Pare in Cleveland, OH USA 04/04/2009
Classicatic.com...We booked a dinner and an Opera event in Florence. Enjoyed a delicious five course Italian dinner with wine at a traditional restaurant near Ponte Vecchio then walked about a block to the theater where we enjoyed a four act presentation of LaBoheme. What a magical evening. The meal was terrific in both taste and presentation and the music was very powerful. Because we booked early our reserve seat for the opera was front row center less than ten feet from the actors. This was the finest live show that I have ever experienced. I had never seen or heard anything like it in the past and don't expect to witness anything like it again!! I was totally WOWed!! Wonderful, talented actors!!!
Furnacefighter in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/20/2009
UMBRIA FOR EASTER. Get away from the crowds of Rome and Florence for a typical Easter at GENIUS LOCI COUNTRY INN, conveniently located half-way inbetween, only 2 hours from both. Enjoy a relaxed, traditional Easter Sunday brunch and receive a complimentary welcome bottle of our D.O.C.G. wine for stays of 2 nights or more. http://www.geniuslociumbria.com
Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, PG Italy 03/05/2009
Bergamo - The upper city is a walled medieval city that has as much charm as Orvieto. La Valletta Hotel is on top of the city and it is lovely. Mario is the owner and he speaks English and bends over backwards to make guests happy. Rooms are absolutely fantastic..upscale place but worth the money. Great break from Milan after a few days. About a 5 minute trolley ride to the old town or 10 min walk. Old City of Bergamo has several lovely restaurants and they all seem to be local favorites. Contact Mario (www.lavallettabergamo.it)
JK in Brussels, Belgium 03/04/2009
Email address is ladycharleston@gmail.com I'd rather not give my name, but I would suggest adding this restaurant as one to avoid when traveling in Florence. I have the 2009 Italy guide book.
Vivian in Paramus, NJ USA 02/16/2009
Le Marche, Italy - this region is a jem, unspoilled with mass tourism. Urbino is mentioned as a hilltop town of central Italy, however I think it is about time that Le Marche is recognized as its own Region. I humbly write this because I love the series, I grew up in Edmonds - so I am very familiar with Rick Steves, and secondly because of the idyllic La Tavola Marche an intimate Agriturismo & cooking school in Le Marche near Urbania (&Urbino) run by young passionate American Ex-pats. Rustic apartment rentals in 200 year old farmhouse sitting on 500 acres of rolling hills, farmland & truffle rich woods!
Ashley in Piobbico, PU Italy 02/14/2009
Just returned from Italy last week. Rick's "Italy 2009" was a GREAT guide book. The tips about going to BORGHESE museum in Rome was especially helpful. It was not an easy location to find, but thanks to Rick's tips in this book. We made it to the museum!
yy in San Francisco, CA USA 02/13/2009
Thanks to all our guests who write reviews of Genius Loci Country Inn (www.geniuslociumbria.com) in Bevagna, UMBRIA. We have an EASTER SPECIAL for all of Rick Steves readers: for a stay of three nights, a typical, traditional Umbrian Easter day brunch/feast with all the local specialties. A meal (wine included!!!) which will make dinner unnecessary - a meal to enjoy at leisure with your hosts.
Mary Thomas Tacconi in Bevagna PG, Italy 02/11/2009
Rick, I wrote you a personal e-mail in November 2008 about the town of Bergamo we discovered through the eyes of an experienced historian involved in restoration efforts and tourist education there. Your staff member promised to forward it to you. Sadly I never received a reply, which was very disappointing. Bergamo was a real find as the Venetian outpost controlling trade with Europe, with an amazing 3-walled ancient city on the mountaintop.I wanted to introduce this person to you as a possible great asset to a further guide book on "hidden" Italy. Are you interested in more information?
Lee in Washington DC, DC USA 01/15/2009
Fly Fishing for Michelangelo's Trout in Tuscany and Umbria
Your travel book for Italy was extremely helpful, but I found something really great to add that others may enjoy as well.
Italy is so much more than the typical tourist can experience but I was one of the lucky ones. Over the Christmas Holiday, while reuniting with my foreign studies student past, I found an old friend who is now a professional fly fishing guide in Umbria.
Luca Castellani has a web site at http://www.flyfishing-tuscany-umbria-lazio.com to answer any questions but basically, he will take you to the river (more than 30 km of reserved, private water for fly fishing) and provide all that is needed for a delightful and amazing day.
You won't experience anything like this anywhere else on Earth. I recommend a fly fishing day as a side trip to all those traveling these regions. FYI, As a vegetarian, I was happy to learn it's all catch and release.
His contact info is: castellaniluca@inwind.it +39 3403499273 http://www.flyfishing-tuscany-umbria-lazio.com
Susan Gilbert in St. Petersburg, FL USA 01/09/2009
In Venice I would strongly suggest the review and addition of Hotel La Villeggiatura, calle dei Botteri 1569 Rialto 30125 San Polo Venezia tel 0039 041 5244673 Owner: Francesca Adilardi Website www.lavilleggiatura.it
This hotel meets and in my view exceeds the back door philosophy. It is located just slightly off the beaten path; the accommodation offered very good quality and was one of the better values (next to Edi's in Riomaggiorie). This hotel has perhaps 6 rooms, includes a lovely breakfast. Owner Francesca Adilardi and her assistant Barbara were some of the most gracious and helpful we met and spent about 30-40 minutes with us reviewing sights and a great map of Venice. The room was very nice and comfortable. Rate in early July 2008 was 150 Euro including a satisfying breakfast. I would strongly encourage you to consider adding this establishment to your guide book. I am not aware that this hotel is in any other guide other than a past article in the NY Times.
Gary Reichanadter in Mooresville, In USA 01/01/2009