Portugal

Guidebook corrections:

Please note: The following corrections were submitted by readers and have not yet been confirmed by Rick. Check updates from Rick for the latest.

Include Braga

The Rev'd Canon Francis C. Zanger in Braga, Portugal 07/03/2008

We found all of Portugal to be non-smoking, from hotels, to restuarants, to the buses. Our whole experience was wonderfully smoke-free.

Colette in Cottage Grove, OR USA 06/29/2008

Yes-- Portugal's northenmost 'site really worth visiting' isn't the city of Porto-- the guidebook I have completely left out Braga, now Portugal's third-largest metropolitan area (and my home), and the site of Portugal's biggest attractions after Libon and Fatima, the Igreja de Bom Jesus.

Braga is indeed wonderful-- it’s also one of Portugal’s oldest cities– as “Bracara Augusta”, it was the capital of the Roman Province of Gallicia (the first Christian martyr, St. Vincente, was killed in Braga in 303AD).

When the Roman Empire fell at the end of the 4th Century, northeastern Iberia, with Braga as its capital, fell to the Swabians, a Germanic tribe that was Christianized well before the Franks of what’s now France, and the Sé, Braga’s remarkable cathedral, was started in the 10th Century over the site of an earlier Swabian church (with stones, on display, from the original Roman walls!). The Sé has a remarkable treasury/museum which includes cathedral artefacts dating back a thousand years, including an 11th Century chalice and paten used by the then-archbishop, along with some amazing art and ivory statuettes, ecclesial jewelry, etc., reflecting Portugal’s one-time colonial wealth.

There are multiple museums and galleries in the city, ranging from pre-Roman (Celtic) archeological museums to those focusing on modern art, a lively theater scene (Teatro Circo is worth touring even if nothing is playing!), and Braga is also in the center of the ‘Vinho Verde’ country (a marvelous, light, ‘new wine’), and just north of the Douro, home of Port wines.

And, for some reason, Rick Steve (and most tourists) has never heard of it!

Canon Francis C. Zanger, D.Min. in Braga, Portugal 06/28/2008

Sintra: Addition to Kyle's correction. Pena Palace cost 11 euro on Sunday on June 22, 2008. Signs there said it is free until 1pm for locals. So, it isn't free unless one can fake being a local. Agree that the buses we took - 434 from the train station (at 4 euro per person) and the green trolly (3 euro per person - but one can hike that last stretch) add to the total cost. Also, the 11 euro entrance was just for this castle. The combined castle ticket is 16 euro (I think). There was a complicated array of combination tour options that was poorly explained in English. It would be useful to have all this spelled out on the website.

Danny Mittleman in Chicago, IL USA 06/23/2008

Potugal has ATM limits of 200 Euros per transaction no matter what your back in the States may have.

James VanSickle in Norton, OH USA 05/15/2008

Tram fare is now 1,35 not 1,20. Pena Palace is now open on Mondays. Rossio train station is best place to leave for Sintra, otherwise you may have to transfer trains which can be difficult.

Christopher Allen in Berkeley, CA USA 05/05/2008

I would make clear that Nazare is a beach town. If you're expecting a fishing village, you'll be very surprised. The beach is beautiful and there are many places for delicious fresh fish, but it isn't old and it isn't quaint.

David Dooley in San Diego, CA USA 03/31/2008

Places to Stay: Pensao Residencial 13 da Sorte, Lisbon on page 99 of 2007 guidebook was no longer open when we were there in mid-November 2007. A sign referred guests to another location in the city.

Philip Hubbard in Barre, MA USA 01/06/2008

The Pena Palace in Sintra is not free on Sundays (even before 14:00). I paid 10 euros for a combined ticket for entry into the Pena Palace and Moorish Castle on Sunday, December 30, 2007. Add that to the cost to get to Sintra (3.20 euros round-trip by train) and the 434 Scotturb bus cost (4.00 euros), and a Sunday day trip to Sintra from Lisbon was not cheap. Also, my guide at the Fortaleza in Sagres said that most of the Henry the Navigator stuff is not true--there was no navigation school, and the wind compass (the reason I went to Portugal!) was mostly a dream of their dictator in the 1960s. The TI at the Lisbon airport was closed on Christmas day, but the public buses ran (including the airport bus).

Kyla Gurganus in Ypsilanti, MI USA 01/05/2008

Vuiva Laemgo is no longer in 29 Cal. do Sacramento in the Chiado district of Lisbon. They have a showroom in: Largo do Intendente, 25 1100-285 Lisboa Tel: 218 852 408

Uma Murthy in Blacksburg, VA USA 01/03/2008

In Lisbon the Barrio Alto overlook view from a terrace near the Gloria funicular was fenced off for renovations. There is no Amex office in Lisbon (p. 46). We were told it has been closed for 3 years. There was no "free guided tour" for Sao Jorge (p. 59)

pp 170 and 173 refer to Restaurante O Luis in Sitio. It no longer exists.

In Alcobaca the National Wine Museum (p. 187) is permanently closed.

This book was like having a personal guided tour every place we went Oct 16-30 2007. Extremely accurate and helpful info.

bill rapp in malvern, pa USA 12/05/2007

The directions from Porto to the Douro Valley need a bit more detail. Seemed to be an information gap between Armarante and Mesao Frio. Hard to find N-101 just east of Armarante near Maladena.

Don Karpen in Talent, OR USA 10/16/2007

In Sintra, the Sunday morning discounts only apply to the gardens at the Pena Palace and not to the palace itself. There are Sunday morning discounts for the Moorish castle, though. Therefore, instead of recommending that people visit Pena Palace and then Moorish Castle, the guidebook should instead recommend that people visit the Moorish Castle first and then Pena Palace

Jon Seibald in New York, NY USA 10/02/2007

Many restaurants in the book are closed or the opening times are incorrect.

No one says Adeau; use Ciao for goodbye.

Fan in Rockville, MD USA 08/18/2007

Queluz-Belas is a stop on the Sintra train line. An easy, 20-minute walk from the station takes you to Queluz Palace. It was a wonderful experience and viewing all the tiles made the Tile Museum redundant. Another best was the absence of crowds. Please consider adding this as it is so easy to reach via the train to Sintra.

Earl Johnson in Dowling Park, FL USA 08/13/2007

The new church in Fatima is not open yet. The book said it is open already, but it is far from completion.

Jane Leingang in Evansville, IN USA 08/06/2007

The Duoro Museum in Peso da Regua is closed while the new museum is being built; couldn't find out anticipated opening.

Marcy Nicklas in Frederick, MD USA 07/23/2007

In the discussion of Fatima, Lucia died in 2005, she is not still alive. More importantly, the map of Belem needs to be adjusted. The map suggests that the Alges train stop is right next to the tower of Belem, while they are in fact almost a mile apart. The map suggests it is drawn to scale, which is misleading. The book was otherwise great!

Mike Soboeiro in Pinehurst, NC USA 06/24/2007

Still can't get to Sintra from Rossio station. In Lagos, Casa de Sao Goncalo is closed for renovation. Next door, the Hotel Riomar can’t possibly be “new,” as described in the book.

Vicki Phillips in Denver, CO USA 05/17/2007

Be careful...the TI at Cabo da Roca that sells certificates that prove you were there doesn't close at 2000, it closes earlier--1830 or 1900. I took a cab out there to get one, arrived at 1915, and was too late. Which brings me to my second point... The bus from Cabo da Roca stops running at a certain time...about 1945 or so, if I recall. I just barely made the last bus...another five minutes and I would have had some long walk back to civilization from Europe's westernmost point.

George Mole' in Bronx, NY USA 04/16/2007

In Portugal's 2007 guidebook p.183 says that Sister Lucia is still alive but she passed away on February 2005

Norman Lizano Costa Rica 04/06/2007

In 2007 a one-way cable car journey from Nazaré to Sitío costs EUR 0.85 per person, up from EUR 0.75.

Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 03/03/2007

The Canto do Camoes restaurant in Lisbon has a new internet address: http://www.cantodocamoes.com. The website listed in the 2006 Portugal guide, page 87, has changed. Please note that it is closed for remodeling until 10th March 2007.

[Editor's Note: This has been corrected in our 2007 Portugal guide, which is now available through our online Travel Store.]

Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 01/27/2007

Page 20 shows driving distances and times. One of the distances that appears incorrect, is from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. The book gives a distance of 450 miles, and 8.5 hours. According to the Michelin website, it shows 145 miles, and 2.5 to 3.0 hours (I picked Rua Santa Catarina in Porto, as a reference).

Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 01/24/2007

In the listing of "Casa Pasteis de Belém", the fact that a "garoto" is the same as a "café com leite". The staff should understand both words, though.

Josh Hanz in Frisco, TX USA 01/23/2007

In Lisbon, Rick recommends Chimarrao, a Brazilian churrascaria located in Armazens do Chiado. However we spoke with several Brazilians living in Lisbon whom we met at bus stops, restaurants, etc. All said that the Chimarrao located at Colombo shopping mall is better.

We also found a decent Brazilian food at a little place just down the street from the Baixo Chiado metro exit that was a Brazilian buffet for less than half the price of Chimarrao. It is about two doors down from a grocery store. Can't remember the name.

Bill Skelton in Newnan, GA USA 01/01/2007

We had a great time in Lisbon and your book was terrific. We went there the week before Christmas 2006. This is the second time we used your travel guide. The first time was last year in Paris, and we stayed in the Rue Cler neighborhood. We agree with your assessment that Rue Cler certainly represents the flavor of Paris. However, back to Lisbon. We stayed at the VIP Eden Hotel, which is the official name of the hotel. Your guide list it as Orion Eden Apartment Hotel, which the airport tourist booth did not recognize. The Elevador da Gloria funicular is closed while the Rossio station is closed.

The restaurant you seggested in your guide in Porto Brandao is closed. We are not sure if it is going through major renovation, because there was construction inside the building. However, the restaurant next door, Restaurante Porto Brandao, was very good.

David Seto in North Brunswick, NJ USA 01/01/2007

The prices for most things were higher than stated in the book, but other than that, pretty accurate. The Porto metro system can now get you to the airport.

Jennifer Orkney in Seattle, WA USA 11/06/2006

yes, passing nazare off as a worthy, non-supertacky place to hang your hat. Obidos is by far a better staging ground for exploring the countryside

jim holland in chula vista, ca USA 10/28/2006

As of Oct, 2006 the bus numbers in Lisbon have under gone major changes. The #100 is now the 790, #46 is 746. Also note the TI office is handout the old bus maps.

sheryl harawitz in new york, ny USA 10/23/2006

On page 75 of the 2006 Portugal guidebook, Rick suggests an untouristy ferry ride across the Tejo to Porto Brandao. This was worthwhile as we relaxed and saw the sites we had seen on land from the waterway, a different perspective. The correction I have is once off the ferry, Rick's choice of restaurant, Restaurante O Parafuso, appears to have been closed on Sunday if not closed for good. Unsure what the signs said as they were in Portuguese but the place looked as if it had been deserted. However, the restaurant to the immediate right of Restaurante O'Parafuso, the Restaurante Porto Brandao was an excellent comparable option for fondue. One more thing to mention though, when ordering your food here, if you are brought food other than the food you actually ordered be aware that if you partake in it you will be charged extra accordingly. Kind of costly surprise side orders if you will. But know the huge portion of lobster and shrimp fondue was more than two people could actually eat and it was fresh!!! Thanks Rick for pointing us to this adventure!!! Your book otherwise was quite a help as well!!!

Kim Wood in Anaheim Hills, CA USA 10/06/2006

Bairro Alto Stroll Pg 51: Arrived at the Elevador da Gloria to find that it was shut down for repair. Walked up the funicular route to the top and to San Pedro Park, to find it was closed for renovation. Still enjoyed the stroll.

Milo and Susan Tedstrom in Denver, CO USA 09/27/2006

I have a question. Page 140 mentions that to go from Tavira to Lagos the train is better: 11 trains/day, change in Faro, 2-3 hours. page 134 mentions that from Lagos to Tavira there is 11 trains/day, 3 hours and 6 buses/day, 1.5 hours, transfer in Faro. Page 134 seems to indicate the bus at 1.5 hours would be better than the train. The transfer in Faro seems to be a discrepancy also. Can you clarify?

Jann in Henderson, NV USA 08/06/2006

Lisboa Card: when getting your card pay attention to the booklet that comes with it. In some cases, like Sintra, you need vouchers from the booklet to actually get reduced rates or get in free. This is new for 2006.

Rosemary Martin in Denver, CO USA 06/25/2006

I found the guidebook most useful. My only suggestion for improvemnet is in the presentation of the maps. They are small and do not name a sufficient number of streets.

J A H Brown in Wentworth Falls, NSW 2782, Australia 06/24/2006

The sites at Sintra are not all free until 2 on Sundays.

Marilyn McVicar in Richmond, BC Canada 06/21/2006

Only to emphasize that the Portuguese people are among the friendliest, warmest, most relaxed and helpful we've encountered. Virtually every day we had a positive experience with a local, often with people who did not speak English. They went out of their ways to make us feel welcome.

For someone who has not been to Europe, Portugal would make a great first trip because (a) while there is much to see and do, it is not overwhelming, (b) the people, (c) the excellent food, (d) the superb wines, and (e) its affordability.

Ken Kleszynski in Portland, OR USA 06/16/2006

Rick on page 82 of the Portugal 2006 book there is a map of "Portugal Explores the Sea." The arrow pointing to an island off the coast of Africa should actually be Madagascar not Mozambique, which is a former Portugese colony on the mainland.

Nick Beck in New Westminster, BC Canada 05/16/2006

The overlook Miradouro de São Pedro in Chiado, Lisbon,is being restored and is closed (March, 2006).

Tom Nelson in Minneapolis, MN USA 04/30/2006

the pension mare in Salema is still owned by British John, but is managed by a Danish couple who are wonderful. It is not a place to go if you want a typically Portugese place to stay, but if you are road weary and want some "comforts of home" it is great. Salema is rapidly becoming a very touristy place, but still is quiet and peaceful. Spring is a wonderful time to go.

Jennifer USA 04/15/2006

We spent 5 days in Lisbon on a partial business trip and the Lisboa Card was very nice. You didn't have to worry about tickets when you wanted to get on public transport. It also provided free or discounted access into many museums that you might not go into normally. Sometimes it was nice to just "pop" into a small museum for free. Some sights listed as giving free access with Lisboa card, only give a 30% discount though.

Michael Dunn in Decatur, GA USA 04/11/2006

Some sights listed as giving free access with Lisboa card, only give a 30% discount.

Michael Dunn in Decatur, GA USA 04/11/2006

It seems unlikely that the statue of St. George, to be found in the castle of the same name (Sao Jorge) in Lisbon, was placed there by a "sensitive guy" king to placate a 14th century "homesick English queen."

This is because St. George is not just the patron saint of England, but is also claimed as the patron saint of Aragon and Portugal, amongst many other things (for example, he is also the patron of soldiers, cavalry and chivalry, and, most notably, given the situation, the Portuguese army.) One source for this info is http://www.britannia.com/history/stgeorge.html but I also found the reference to St. George being the Portugese army patron saint in various places in Lisbon.

Moreover, in the Victoria and Albert museum in London, in the same room as the Raphael cartoons - the very rooms that Rick urges us to see - you can find another piece - one of the treasures of that musuem - which is a 'retable' of St. George by the late 14th century-early 15th century German painter Marzal de Sax. Most of the work is devoted to the saint and his various martyrdoms but there is one panel, just above or below the depiction of the slaying of a dragon by St. George, that shows - in a not too subtle bit of symbolism - the slaying of a Moorish king by James 1 of Aragon, during the (re)conquest of Valencia.

Hokay, that's my story, and why I'm sticking to it. What's Rick's rationale for that bit about the homesick English queen? (The challenge is on!)

Clare MacIntosh in Halifax, NS Canada 04/09/2006

The Miradouro de Sao Pedro Alcantara was closed for renovations during my recent trip to Lisbon in March.

Sarah Gilbert in Cedar Park, Tx USA 04/07/2006

"Arigato" in Japanese does not come from "Obrigado." (pg. 70) Unclear if "Batata Quente" in Evora still exists. Also, you should make it clear how hard the Lisbon taxi drivers work to rip you off.

WDM in Tokyo, Japan 03/16/2006

No, the guide book was perfect. We especially used it in Lisbon, when touring the areas around the city.The Lisboa Card was a gem.

Norma Davis in Sydenham, On Canada 01/25/2006

No corrections but you should continue to ignore the monoliths near Sagres. There is a very nice walk to see boulders with signs that say things like,"This mark may be neolithic or a '60s symbol of peace"

Robert and Marian Eichinger in Minneapolis, MN USA 01/21/2006