Ireland 2010Favorite discoveries or tips: I recommend an addition to the guidebook. A 15th century castle surrounded by indigenous woodlands. Dunsandle Castle Kiltullagh Athenry Co Galway Ireland 00353 91 867651 or 00353 83 3718602 info@dunsandlecastle.com www.dunsandlecastle.com Dunsandle Castle is a 15th century castle that was completely restored. It was recenty opened to the public in July this year. Facilities include guided tours, exhibitions, woodland walks and picnic area. In contrast to the other castles spread throughout Ireland, Dunsandle Castle is not owned by the OPW but privately owned. The guided tours are really communicative and the castle's atmosphere is authentic. The visit will be a great experience, especially for families. It is more than just visiting a medieval castle. It's a whole day out. The castle is sign posted Sylvia Schnappauf in Erlangen, Germany 11/18/2009 For absolutely breathtaking scenery drive through The Gap of Dunloe, Killarney. This is a narrow pass (you want a small car) between Macgillycuddy's Reeks and the Purple Mountains near Killarney. Tour buses cannot drive through so you either need to drive a car or else, take one of the horse and carriage rides offered. We drove through, early in the morning on a beautiful October day. It was quiet with very few people around. I've been all over Ireland and have seen many beautiful sights and I have to say this knocked me out it was so gorgeous! J Burke in Elmhurst, IL USA 11/17/2009 Discoveries: All the Two's Guesthouse, Galway Road, Clifden; Connemara, Co Galway; Tel: 095 22222. (open all year)(allthetwos@gmail.com; www.clifden-allthetwos-connemara.com) Fabulous hostess, Maureen; new building, beautiful accomodations, elevator to second floor, hairdryers, Wi Fi, impressive breakfast. We stayed a month in Ireland (October, 2009). Gray Gables B&B in Ennis was a good first/last night place to stay (using the Shannon Airport, and Mary Keane is a good hostess. Almost all the B&B's were fun, comfortable, and a way to visit with people. Our fav B&B's: near Dublin: Glenn-na-Smol in Howth (extra-helpful); near Kinsale: Insiara B&B, Ballinhassig, Co. Cork; near Ring of Kerry and Beara Peninsula: Water's Edge in Kenmare; the Connemara: All the Two's in Clifden; just west of Derry, but in the Republic, near Newtown: Amare Farmhouse B&B (ask them about the ring fort Grianon of Aileach). Tips: we took clothes that would dry quickly after hand-laundering (no jeans)and could be layered. We wore silk or microfiber long johns most days (October). Have a rainjacket at the ready! Our hiking boots may be our most-enjoyed item we took with us. Warm and dry and well worth the space and weight in our luggage. Though we're not interested in the nightlife and big meals, we found plenty to love - the people, the outdoors, and history. Shirley in Pagosa Springs, CO USA 11/08/2009 On our recent tour we found one of the recommended cafes closed, but just down the street was Cafe Renoir, a wonderful "lst floor" cafe/bistro--roomy enough for a whole tour bus, extensive bistro menu, including vegetarian selections, an on site bakery and pizza oven, wonderful salads, sandwiches and deli dishes Prices were fine too. I'd really recommend it. It's at 93-95 Botanic Avenue Belfast www.cafe-Renoir.com Tel 028 9033 1300 INFO@Cafe-Renoir.com Karen Creason Best of Ireland 2009 Karen Creason in Vancouver, WA USA 10/28/2009 Peggy O'Neil's B&B in Cashel. On-site owners, new, clean, not expensive or fancy. Very friendly and helpful. peggyoneills@hotmail.com Also...Oz Haven restaurant in Kinsale! Hip and delicious. Lori Ecklebe in Omaha, NE USA 10/25/2009 I'm a former truck driver, so you probably can't understand why I was so nervous about driving in Ireland, but I was. I have a Garmin GPS system here in the States and so I decided to search the internet for an Ireland chip for it that I could use while driving on the left and sitting on the right! There was a place called "Memory C", based in Ireland, that sold the chip for something like $67.00 (u.s.). I got it and, honestly, didn't have much high hopes for it. To my surprise, it was the best investment of the trip. Accurate down to the last round-a-bout and guided us through the smallest of villages. I would totally recommend this option to anyone driving in Ireland. Jake in Queen Creek, AZ USA 10/24/2009 The Davitts B&B in Kenmare and the Rivermont B&B in Kinsale were both wonderful. Davitts is above a pub, but don't let that put you off. It was lovely accommodations. The Rivermont was a free standing modern home about 3 miles out of Kinsale. Beautiful views and equally splendid accommodations. Jake in Queen Creek, AZ USA 10/24/2009 Aaranmore Lodge. 14 Coleraine Road. Portrush. Co Antrim. www.aaranmorelodge.com Tel +44 28 70824640 Taylor in Boston, USA 10/18/2009 Aaranmore Lodge. 14 Coleraine Road. Portrush. Co Antrim. www.aaranmorelodge.com Tel +44 28 70824640 Taylor in Boston, USA 10/18/2009 We found a terrific taxi service in the Dublin area. The driver's name is Eddie Crosbie mobile: 086 4086456 and tel: 01 8027774 He was courteous, on time and had a very nice taxi. He waited patiently for us while we took in some sights like New Grange. Gail Moser in Bandon, Or USA 10/12/2009 DocLach@aol.com Dale in Libertyville, IL USA 10/11/2009 Newlands Lodge Kells Road Kilkenny www.newlandslodge.com Kimberly Lachamn in Libertyville, IL USA 10/11/2009 We just returned from Ireland and used your guide extensively. We have two recommendations for inclusion in future guides: 1. The Anchor Guesthouse, 49 Lower Gardiner St, +353 1 8786913, gtc@anchorguesthouse.com, www.anchorguesthouse.com. We stayed there three days at the end of September, 2009. This 22 bedroom B&B has been owned and operated for fifteen years by Joan and Gerry Coyne. A very well kept Georgian house in the front, most of the rooms are in a new building in the back; these are very quiet. Either Joan or Gerry is almost always there, and the owner attention shows in the well cleaned and decorated house. We paid 70 Euros per night for a double (actually triple room) en suite, including breakfast. The Guesthouse has a large and cheery breakfast room and a large sitting room for guests. The Anchor Guesthouse is right next to the Townhouse, that you recommend, but it is substantially cheaper and appears cheerier and quieter from the outside - new painting and lots of flower boxes in the windows. 2. Govinda's Vegetarian Restaurant, Abbey Street just Wast of O'Connell Street. This Hindu style restaurant serves huge portions at very moderate prices. We shared one plate, at 10.50 Euros, for two and couldn't finish it all. The restaurant is close to the Anchor Guesthouse. You don't have very many restaurants listed north of the Liffey, so this would be a good addition. David Nelson in Silver Spring, MD USA 10/05/2009 Gurteen Village; great trad Irish music in 2 pubs, the best B&B in 15 nights in Ireland: Churchview B&B Gurteen. The evening pub food at Crossbow was great! The Michael Coleman Music Center in Gurteen was fantastic! Wed and Sat Sessions in the summer, and other times during the year to be announced. The upstairs in the center has an audio system that allows you to hear thousands of traditional Irish musicians and music on numerous instruments. Gurteen rivals Doolin for Trad music, in my estimation! Dan Dan in Ocean Shores, Wa USA 09/26/2009 Dear Rick We wanted to inform you of the recent upgrades to our ferry service from Doolin. You have us listed as an option for the Aran Islands (Jack B) We invested in a second boat this year and have rebranded ourselves as Doolin2Aran Ferries. We now offer ROUNDTRIP ferries to all 3 Aran Islands at the following very competitive prices: Inis Mor - 20 euros per person Inis Meain - 20 euros per person Inis Oirr - 15 euros per person Joan Reilly in Doolin, Co Clare, Ireland 09/24/2009 We used the book exclusively and when we went to a city not included we felt lost and didn't know where to begin. Without the "bible" we would never done the things it suggested. The itineray layout was excellent. We would not want to traved anywhere with the guidance given be Rick. Maria M Maclean in Nelson, BC Canada 09/20/2009 the Clontarf Castle Hotel, Dublin - Great rooms and resturants, quiet neighborhood surroundings, easy access of public transportation to the nightlife and attractions of City Center Dublin. All at an affordable alternative to Dublin Center City MIchael Habig in Bloomington, Mn USA 09/19/2009 As a home base for visiting the historic County Meath, we found Teltown House, halfway between Kells and Navan, just off the N3. Renee and Bartle Clark run this top quality farmstay B&B and are two of the most pleasant people we have met in years of traveling. Phone 046-902 3239 or mobile 087-665 9022. E-mail: teltownhouse@eircom.net Darrell and Dolores Meyer in Mountain Brook, AL USA 09/18/2009 While we were in Ireland last week, we came across Molly Gallivan's Cottage in Bonane, Ireland, just a few kilometers from Kenmare. Stephen, the owner, mentioned the Homecoming held every Tuesday night and we booked a spot (only room for about fifteen). We witnessed a highlight of our trip with music, acting, storytelling and great food. It all took place in a 200 year old cottage in front of an open fire. This should be a must for anyone visiting the Kenmare region. Hopefully, Rick will visit sometime and include it in his Ireland guidebook. The people couldn't have been nicer. Bob and Donna Johnson in Hendersonville, NC USA 09/14/2009 Our greatest discovery was the people. Taking the time to talk to the locals in Connemara, Galway, Belfast and Dublin provided a view of the country we otherwise would have missed. On a random run through the neighborhood surrounding The Camera House I found a music and food festival taking place that week. Chefs from Chicago and the local area were competing and the local music played non-stop on a huge stage. What an great afternoon! Running in Belfast was a challenge (streets uneven and if you aren't watching out a bit hazardout with cars). Pamela in Overland Park, KS USA 09/12/2009 Dermott Ryan, a lifelong residents of Kinsale, gives excellent tours of the town and his twice a day times are very convenient. O’Brien’s Tower at Cliffs of Moher is not worth the euros. The views are fantastic from the cliff’s edge. Allihies on the Beara Peninsula is not worth the long, winding, narrow road from Eyeries. Allihies is just another tidy town. Make Eyeries your last stop.
Mary Ann in Wilmette, IL USA 09/06/2009 The small village of Gurteen, east of Tobercurry, south of Sligo is chock full of great trad Irish musicians. Two pubs have regular scheduled music, and the Coleman Music Center is a MUST SEE! Interactive audio center upstairs with 100's of recordings of all kinds of Trad music, intruments, and performers. It has the best selection of music books, instruments, and CD's that we have found in Ireland. The Coleman Music Center has Trad Sessions on Wed and Sat nights during July and August, in their new state-of-the-art music theatre, and other scheduled sessions throughout the year. You can contact them at: www.colemanirishmusic.com Daniel Murphy in Ocean Shores, WA USA 09/02/2009 It was a lot harder to find Minard Castle on the Dingle Peninsula than Rick let on. The roads were NOT well marked, & we probably covered the same stretch of road between Dingle Town & Four Mile Strand three times before we found the turn. But we did find the castle eventually & holy cow was it worth the effort. That tiny beach just below it was gorgeous & the castle itself was breathtaking. And then we realized that Minard Castle was the actual picture on the front of our guidebook. We took a picture of ourselves in front of the castle holding up the book. You can totally see the matching castle. Do you have a bulletin board where we can post something like that? We'd love to share it. And thanks for putting together such a wonderful & comprehensive book. By the end of the trip, we were referring to it as Our Buddy Rick. As in "Where should we have dinner tonight?" "I don't know. Let's ask Our Buddy Rick." Thanks again. Susan Seyfarth in St. Paul, MN USA 08/29/2009 I would recommend adding Joy's Rockside House B&B, Cashel, Co. Tipperary to your guidebook. Rem and Joan Joy were gracious and helpful hosts, the room was great, and the breakfast wonderful. Located just below Rock of Cashel. Beautiful view of the Rock at night. For those driving, I would recommend driving the "Vee" on R668 between Clogheen and Lismore, Co. Tipperary. This route was recommended by our host at Joy's Rockside House B&B and offered spectacular views of the valley below. Kevin and Sheila in Whitesboro, NY USA 08/29/2009 Bru Boru cultural center in Cashel had a fantastic music and dance show during th esummer, now finished for the year. larry in rochester, mn USA 08/27/2009 -Kinsale: please mention the relatively new river walkway between Kinsale and Charles Fort. We took the very busy road before we discovered this lovely walk. Think the sign said Salmon Walkway..not sure -ALSO: The Burren Perfumery was one of the nicest places we visited and not mentioned in your wonderful book. -ALSO: Kenmare: We stayed at Muxnaw Lodge (muxnawlodge@eircom.net 06441252 Hanna Boland)It is a hugeold manor house overlooking the river on 571 just past the bridge..within 12 minutes walk to town. It is old, but charming. Breakfast is served with linen, silver, fresh flowers, in front of a warm fire under a Waterford chandelier. Hannah is a charming, gracious and very helpful hostess...if you want the pristine-ness of a Hilton, this isn't for you, but if you want a taste of old Ireland ..beautiful river views, gardens, Laura Ashley fabrics and wallpaper, overstuffed furniture, casually elegant manor life you might give this a shot. ALSO: Dun Manus, Screebe, Ross Muck,Connemara, Co Galway,dunmanusbandb@hotmail.com,Theresa...clean, moderate but also moderately priced, beautiful water view,Theresa VERY helpful and typically fiery Irish..the Peacock Hotel w/in 10 minutes, serves the best fresh caught wild salmon dinner EVER for 12.95 Euros! Susan and Lamar Robinette in Clemson, sc USA 08/23/2009 The town of Portumna and the Oak Lodge B&B. Oaklodgeportumna@eircom.net Larry in Pearland, TX USA 07/31/2009 We stumbled onto Molly Gallivan's going from Kenmare to Glengarrif. What a hidden gem! From the video explaining the history of the area and the quaint farm to the terrific goods and a spot of lunch, it was a place we'll include on our next trip. Brenda in Bloomfield Hills, MI USA 07/28/2009 Travelled to Belfast for a long weekend in May, visited Derry and Giant's Causeway as well, and had a great time and made good use of 2007 guidebook. Wanted to share the following tips: Left Luggage - available at the Belfast Welcome Center nr City Hall. You'll need photo ID (e.g. passport). (I didn't notice this in 2007 book but it may be in later editions?) Restaurant recommendation - Molly's Yard, 1 College Green Mews, near Queen's Uni and recommended accomodations. Small but local/seasonal delicious menu, microbrewed real ales (College Green Brewery); a little pricey, but pre-theatre special set menus to take advantage of. General note on beer in Belfast - several pubs serve local- and regional-brewed real ale. If you have fond memories of proper ale in Britain, then Belfast can give you more than a faint reminder of it during your trip to Ireland! Not that there's anything wrong with the Guiness and other keg fare, which I enjoyed at the excellent Kelly's Cellars (mentioned in the guidebook) as well as the nearby Maddens Bar (trad music upstairs from ~2230, Sat nights). Fantastic places! Overall a fascinating place and I think it would be missing half the point to visit as a daytrip from Dublin. From the chatty, vibrant city center nightlife to the lingering solemnness of Shankill and other sectarian neighbourhoods, the contradictions deserve to be experienced and digested. I found it very thought provoking and despite some minor setbacks (i.e. scaring one local lady by asking where she had got her Tim Hortons coffee!) and grim sights, have taken a lot of positive experience from it all and have a lot of hope for the future of the city. I mean, "rough" places like Glasgow and Liverpool have taken center stage as cultural capitals, so why not Belfast..? In a few years time there will be a few more conventional visitor attractions as well, relating to Titanic etc., so watch this space ;) Cheerio, Brian Portsmouth, UK / NS, Canada Brian in Portsmouth, UK 07/27/2009 Driving from Galway to Dublin--exit the main road and visit Clonmacnoise. These ruins, dating back to the 600's, had a rich history and, for us, surpassed Rock of Cashel and Glendolough. It is well worth the detour; I'm amazed there is no reference to it in Rick's book. Harriet Achtman in Scottsdale, AZ USA 07/19/2009 Here is a historical attraction that must be included in your next Ireland guide. "Molly Gallivans" Cottage & Traditional farm found on N71 in Bonane, Co. Kerry, Ireland between Kenmare and Glengarriff In particular the once a week evening (Tuesday)dinner show. http://mollygallivans.com/wake.html My wife and I by chance attended this dinner/show and had the best evening of our two week Ireland trip. Starting with a taste of homemade Irish moonshine, through dinner and culminating with the interactive "Homecoming" show. We felt that we were truly part of something special and a connection with the hard yet wonderfully historic family and friend gathering. This is a do not miss evening for those who want to experience true historic Irish life, food and music without the ever-present crowds. Don Thurmond in Brighton, Mi USA 07/18/2009 We found great traditional music at the Reel Inn in Donegal Town (it's by the bridge on Bridge Street) and at Curragh Rua in Dunfanaghy, which also had the advantage of starting early - apparently most music up on the north coast doesn't start till 11 p.m.!! Heed the driving advice in the appendix and get the atlas, even if you have GPS! Our GPS unit slid off the dash when "delete all" was showing on the touchscreen, and we also took some pretty hairy trips in the mountains following the GPS directions which always favored the most direct route. Ceide Fields in County Mayo is definitely worth a visit if you're in the area. Spectacular cliff views and a really interesting stone age farming community site - totally preserved under the peat, in contrast to Newgrange and Tara where hundreds of generations lived after the stone age people and influenced the landscape. It's an OPW site where you can use your Heritage Card. There are spectacular beaches on the fjord-y part of Ireland up north at Dunfanaghy & the next peninsula over. We were lucky with gorgeous 80-degree sunny weather. My husband's a golfer and his rounds of golf and visits to the driving range put us in contact with non-tourist-industry locals we wouldn't have met otherwise. Shan Hays in Mesa, AZ USA 07/04/2009 We usually book accomodation using Rick's list of places to sleep--mostly bed and breakfast. However, this did not work for us in Kinsale, as all the places suggested in the guide had already been reserved. I went to the internet and found a lovely gem that Rick should not miss out on. The place is called "Landfall House"--www.landfallhouse.com, Tel: 021-4772575 Cappagh, Kinsale, C. Cork, Ireland. Email:info@landfallhouse.com. The proprietor Margo Searls and her husband have owned this bed and breakfast for 12 years and are absolutely the most welcoming and hospitable you will find anywhere, and the accomodations are first rate. The panoramic views of the river and harbour make this an accomodation destination. Donna Wichelman in Fort Collins, CO USA 06/29/2009 An Riasc (www.anriasc.ie). A bandb 11km outside of the village of Dingle. Mountains on three sides (including the 3 Sisters and the Atlantic outside our window. Very unique options'Irish' lessons - they speak Irish in the home, home cooked dinner, arranged a mountain guide for us, uses wherever possible organic food. A wonderful host (Denise Begley) and family. Her 9 year old daughter played a song on the piano for us at dinner. This stay alone made our trip to Ireland a magical experience. Steve Ferrin in Naperville, Il USA 06/28/2009 Ceide Fields http://www.museumsofmayo.com/ceide.htm Ballycastle County Mayo Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 96 43325 Fax: + 353 (0) 96 43261 Email: ceidefields@opw.ie Nancy McMurtrie in Verona, NJ USA 06/24/2009 I spents LOTS of money on a total of five travel books -- when I only needed to purchase one: Rick Steve's IRELAND 2009. Well put-together; all info is there! Purchase this book -- and take your own color photos. Shaye Evans in Lafayette , LA USA 06/23/2009 We used your Ireland 2009 Guidebook and had fine experiences at all the B & B's you recommended. One place we stayed that wasn't in your book but which was really nice, was Fort Ann Farmhouse in Patrickswell near Adare. We booked through Irish Farmhouse Holidays (Brigid Salman) brigid@irishfarmholidays.com but the direct address and phone for the farmhouse is: Fort Ann Adare Road, Patrickswell Co Limerick Phone: 061-355162 email: fortannfarmhouse@yahoo.co.uk The owners are Breda and Michael Mann and they have a lovely farmhouse with comfortable rooms (ensuite with electric shower...nice) The view from our bedroom window was of the lush green lawn and garden in front. Breda was the ultimate hostess who prepared a delicious breakfast and drew us the very best map ever of the drive from Patrickswell to Shannon Airport! We enjoyed visiting Adare (only 4 miles away) and the Irish music and sing along at Pat Collins Pub there. We think this location (Adare) and the Ft. Ann Farmhouse are worthy of inclusion in future editions of your book. Marie & Bob Andel in Kirkwood, MO USA 06/16/2009 We went to Ireland for our Honeymoon and really enjoyed what we saw with the helpful tips of Rick Steves. We had the 2008 copy. Sarah Arehart in Minot, ND USA 06/12/2009 We used the guide book as our bible, but we also added details from other folks as well. Our favorite discoveries included Avoca, which happened to be our first night in Ireland and just what we needed after our flight. Knowledgeable B&B operator, small town and a pleasant community meeting place style pub in town. It's usually a touristy center because of the Avoca Mills, but it's really nice after all the day-trippers are gone. We really think that Slieve League should get more consideration from the guidebook. I wasn't really impressed with Donegal, Sligo or other areas around it, so I agree with your assessment not to include it, but there has been great efforts made recently to increase access to Slieve League. With the walls around the Cliffs of Moher, Slieve League was a nice alternative and an opportunity to walk around beautiful landscape at impressive heights. Very nice around sunset. Kinsale has a very nice crystal shop for those disappointed that Waterford's factory has closed for the moment. Vodafone sold us a SIM card for 10 Euros with 10 Euros worth of time on the card, so it was like getting the card for free which is nice. Unlocked phones are wonderful. Plus, roadside strawberry stands are perfect places to augment those picnic lunches. Wexford Strawberries were an absolute delight. Gary Zekis in Little Rock, AR USA 06/09/2009 I would like to recommend the Play At Height climbing centre and high ropes adventure in Dingle, Co. Kerry. Great fun for all the family. Cian O Driscoll in Dingle, Ky Ireland 06/08/2009 Pax House B&B in Dingle was wonderful. The room was pleasant (although the bathroom was a little small)The breakfasts were delicious and varied, and the owner, John, could not have been more helpful with directions and recommendations for restaurants and pubs. But it was defintely the sea view from the room and the dining room that put this place over the top. Views of fields, cows, sheep and the beautiful sea. There were binoculars in each room for an even better view. Loved it. Ellen Cole in Shaker Heights, OH USA 06/05/2009 laundry in Portrush is out of business Chocolate factory on ring of Kerry was closed--Boooo Gail Buss in Ballwin, MO USA 05/31/2009 I also stayed at Virginia's in Kenmare and suggest Rick look into adding it. Yes, it was top rated in other travel sites, but I was impressed by the breakfast quality - fit for a foodie. Try the pears and artisan blue cheese dish. You get a check list for the various breakfast courses. They got me off in plenty of time to get to a point to avoid all tour buses on my way to Valencia Island. John Yee in Kensington, CA USA 05/30/2009 Rick's advice on the clockwise route around the Ring of Kerry beginning at Kenmare resulted in a perfect day! We only encountered two tour buses. The Skellig Ring really exceeded our expectations and we would highly recommend! Stephanie Simmons in Lapeer, MI USA 05/29/2009 The Healy Pass, near Kenmare, is a worthwhile detour (about 1 hour off the main road from Bantry to Kenmare). The Eliza Lodge in Dublin was a find from TripAdvisor, and it was a good location and reasonably priced. The book "1916", which you recommended, was a great read and set the stage for our trip to Dublin. Laura Gilligan in Chicago, IL USA 05/25/2009 Youghal, a beach town with wonderful medieval-era buildings, proved to be a great halfway point between Waterford and Kinsale, and the Roseville bed and breakfast there proved to be wonderful. Our favorite bed and breakfast proved to be a non-Rick Steves listing in Kinsale, Landfall House. I know it's not centrally located, but anyone with a car would love this place. The house is beautiful and clean, the views are wonderful, the breakfast great, and our hosts were incredible. I cried when we left. Also, Dunmore East was a charming fishing village in which to stay. Shirlene Hayashibara in Riverside, CA USA 05/20/2009 I preferred staying in Salthill vs trying to stay in Galway, as the town was much smaller. Plus we were a 15 minute walk from the Galway downtown. The Torr Head Scenic Road in Antrim was wonderful. Lovely overlook at the end of the road. Janet in Battle Creek, MI USA 05/17/2009 Forget about the Ring of Kerry - it's too long and too crowded. At the recommendation of our host at Virginia's B&B in Kenmare, we drove around the Beara Penninsula instead. The views were fantastic, the towns were cute and we nearly had the place to ourselves. If you're a hiker, try the walks in Glenninchaquin Park with its twin lakes and waterfalls. The walk up to the larger lake is worth it. Drive all the way to the west end of the penninsula to see the cable car to Dursey Island. Stop in Glengarriff for tea, then drive over the summit and through the tunnels on the N71 back to Kenmare. Joe Gaffney in Rohnert Park, CA USA 05/15/2009 Achill Island near Westport is an untouristed and relaxed alternative to the hectic Beara, Kerry, and Dingle peninsulas. Will in Kirkland, WA USA 05/15/2009 If one is looking for a layed back relaxing vacation without missing anything, stay in Doolin, Ireland. It is the most enchanting, friendly village. Kathleen H. Douglas in Yuma, AZ USA 03/16/2009 We went in March (last week) and had a great time because it was so quiet. It was also less expensive because it was off-season. And the weather was not bad! We had slight drizzle on some days, but for the most part, sunny weather. I would better warn readers about the showers. There was NO water pressure and I was left with shampoo in my hair on several occasions. Also, to successfully navigate around the country by car, readers should definitely rent a GPS (and also keep a paper map handy - usually provided by the rental car agency - for those new roads that the GPS does not recognize). Vivian Arestia in Philadelphia, PA USA 03/15/2009 Hello, I would like to request the following accommodation addition to the Rick Steeves Guidebook for Ireland. Property: College Crest Guest House Address: 5 College Road, Galway City, Ireland email: info@collegecrest.com Website: http://www.collegecrest.com/ The property was listed some years ago in the guidebook after Rick visited it. It was removed from the book after some problems with the last manager led to some negative reviews. College Crest has now been under new management for 2 years. Helen Cunningham, the new manager, has been modernising the property, to ensure top class Bed and Breakfast accommodation in Galway to our guests. If possible, we would very much like to welcome Rick here again on his next trip to Galway! Please visit our new website also at http://www.collegecrest.com/ Thank you very much, With kind regards Nicholas Harris on behalf of Helen Cunningham Helen Cunningham in Galway, Ireland 03/12/2009 Artisan Restaurant is a great new restaurant in Galway. We stumbled across it by mistake and it was the highlight of our stay. They had lots of seafood with all fresh, local produdce including lots of organic options. The staff were super friendly and gave us some great tips for the rest of our stay in town. Cody Moore in Melbourne, Vi Australia 01/07/2009 We just loved Ardmore, which is a sleepy little town that seemed like it had no visitors in August. We stayed 5 nights and traveled to many main attractions that were only an hour's drive. It was even my teenagers (11 and 13) favorite place out of our two week Ireland vacation - now that's saying something. :) Molly Wilsbacher in Dublin, OH USA 11/11/2008 Murphy's Ice Cream Shop in Dingle. I had the best Guinness and chocolate chip ice cream! It was unique and quite a treat. The staff was so kind and gave lots of free tastes and extra treats to the kids. Michelle Fogarty in San Francisco, CA USA 11/02/2008 Although the guide book panned it, we really enjoyed the Jameson Distillery. It was educational and tastefully done, and they let you know right up front the fact that it wasn't a working distillery any more. My wife is now a whiskey fan (I think this is a good thing) since we visited there. Shane Day in Seattle, WA USA 10/13/2008 Northern Ireland. On our one previous trip to Ireland 7 years ago we avoided the north because of "the Troubles", but in September we toured Belfast and Derry, as well as the beautiful Antrim coast. It was educational and very enjoyable. Ron in DeWitt, MI USA 10/10/2008 The discounts provided with the "Heritage Island Explorer Touring Guide" as described on page 15 can be obtained without purchasing the 6 Euro guide. Go to http://www.cultureheritageireland.com/full_list.php and print off a copy for each couple touring. We rented a GPS navigator with our rental car. It proved invaluable. I'm sure it saved us a lot of time by choosing shorter routes. Of course, a lot of these shorter routes were roads just wide enough for a single car, nerve-wracking at times, but often very scenic. Another reviewer suggested checking the tires of your rental car for damage before you accept the car. We should have done that. We found half way through our trip that the rear tires were nearly smooth - not safe and a high risk of punctures. If you're travelling from Britain to Ireland You can buy a combined train+ferry ticket between any rail station in Britain and any rail station in Ireland at amazingly cheap prices. For example, London to Dublin 28 UK pounds/44 Euros. Tickets can be bought on the day of travel, but I recommend you buy the tickets a day or two before so that you can be aware of any schedule changes. For further details refer to www.seat61.com. Ronnie Moore in Fullerton, CA USA 10/05/2008 When booking train travel in Ireland, check the Irish Rail website before you leave home. I was able to snag a one way trip from Dublin to Galway for 12 euros and Cork to Dublin for 16 Euros. The regular fare is 59 euros. Easy to book online and claim your tickets at the station. Pat Keech in Shoreline, WA USA 09/19/2008 The entire west coast is awesome...Dingle, Ring of Kerry, Bunratty, Galway City, and Connemara. Don't be afraid to go off the main tourist trail. Rita Jones in Hartford, CT USA 09/02/2008 The Winding Stair restaurant in Dublin. Just across the Liffey River from Temple Bar. Wonderful food for the same prices as worse food in Temple Bar. 24 Lower Ormond Quay. Reservations essential. Eleanor in Belmont, MA USA 08/17/2008 My husband and I loved our recent stay at Gray Gables in Ennis, Ireland. Mary was very helpful, the breakfast yummy and our room was the best on the trip. Thanks for the great suggestions in this guide. Chris & Neil Bruington Chris Bruington in Cardiff by the Sea, CA USA 08/10/2008 Recently my fellow girlfriends and I went on a driving tour of Ireland. We rented two cars. Our phones did not work there, but we knew this and brought along hand held radios. We were so THANKFUL that we did, we lost each other several times, especially in the round abouts or narrow roads. We were able to talk with each other when problems arose. I can't imagine how we would have managed without them. Lisa Gault in Starke, Fl USA 07/31/2008 You recommended driving the ring of Kerry early to miss the tour buses. After 4pm is also a great time to go as they are all off the ring by then. This is when my daughter & I drove and there was almost no traffic except for the sheep. Dolly Bufter in Fort Myers, FL USA 07/16/2008 If you happen to be a town (any town) on the day of a hurling or Gaelic football match, and the local team is playing, hang out and watch and hopefully celebrate with the locals. My sister and I's first night in Ireland we were in Dublin and the football team had just won a semi-final game. Huge parties all over town. We went to Darky Kelley's downstairs from the Harding Hotel and joined in. Met some locals and had a blast (thanks Padraigh). It's a great way to feel right at home and a conversation starter because more than likely you know nothing about either sport. Also, If you have the time take the coast roads along the south coast. So worth the extra time and gas. I can't wait to go back and spend more time in Kerry and Cork. Kara Porter in Portland, OR USA 07/11/2008 The Anvil, in Boolteens, Castlemaine, Kerry is a lovely pub with a great food service, and some of the most beautiful rooms I have seen in Ireland. Ask for the Slieve Misch suite with its' incredible mountain views. Rob Wilson in San Francisco , CA USA 07/07/2008 - Heritage Card is a must purchase if you are Dublin for at least two days (especially if you are a senior or student) - Buses (Limerick-Dublin, Dublin-Belfast) were very accessible and on-time reliable - Lodging: Jacob's Inn (very clean hostel near main bus station) http://www.isaacs.ie/jacobs-inn-dublin/home.aspx - Lodging: Dublin Hostelling (a bit north, but still a good deal) http://www.hostels.com/en/availability.php/HostelNumber.289 Randy in San Francisco, CA USA 06/30/2008 Loughcrew (a smaller, but MUCH less crowded version of Newgrange) and Loop Head (an almost equally impressive but MUCH less-crowded version of Cliffs of Moher) were both worthwhile. Neither is in Rick’s guide yet. Follow Rick’s usual advice and you’ll be happy: save money and enjoy scenery with picnic lunches, dress in layers because the weather changes quickly, bring binoculars, use ATMs rather than credit cards, get to the popular sites early or late, etc. Look into the Heritage Card if you plan to spend more than a few days in Ireland. Depending on your itinerary, it could be a real money saver. We used Nova Car Hire (novacarhire.com) and got a much better deal than we would have from other sites, after you figure in all the extra fees. We also used aaroadwatch.ie to print out very specific directions and driving time estimates ahead of time – it is a lot like mapquest without the map feature. Driving is a 2-person job for tourists in Ireland; it helps to have one person navigating in and out of roundabouts and looking for (the sometimes nonexistent or diabolically well-hidden) road signs while the driver concentrates on the road. By the way, very few people use their horn when driving – imagine if American roads were so quiet. However, this is the only thing about Ireland’s roads that we’d like to import.
John, Monica, George & Tom in Towson, MD USA 06/17/2008 Rent a small car with a GPS or bring your own GPS. Buy a Heritage Card (it will save you money if you plan to visit very many sites). Judy G in Paris, TN USA 06/15/2008 Yes thank you,we loved this changing city Belfast. george clake in London, uk 05/28/2008 Hi folks, I'm an Atlantic Canadian working in England for a few years, and I'm using Rick's Ireland 2007 to help plan a series of short breaks to the Emerald Isle. I've just had my first, based in Dublin for four days. Here's some longwinded feedback on several destinations in the book, from a young fella on a solo journey ;) 1) Getting around Dublin. The city is heaving with every form of traffic - foot, car, bus:) Use the LUAS tram lines to your advantage. A day pass for 5 euro is well worth the trouble. You wouldn't think that a 2-mile wide center would take too long to traverse on foot, but the fact of the matter is you'll be stopped for several minutes at a LOT of intersections due to continuous road traffic. Staying at Gate Lodge, outside the center and very near Heuston Station, gave easy access to the LUAS (and so city center). If you're getting a taxi, watch out for the one-way system on either side of the Liffey. Get in a cab that's already pointed at your destination, because if it has to get onto the other side of the river it will cost you a chunk o' change! Most of the city is intuitive to navigate but the complex intersections surrounding the Busaras (central bus station) were mildly disorienting to me. I walked off in the wrong direction once or twice ;) Final note, the Airlink bus can take a very long time to get from Busaras through O'Connell St. Don't leave it to late or you may regret it! 2) Dublin Pubs Live Music. Growing up among Capers and especially Newfies, I already knew a thing or three about Irish and other Celtic music, and really looked forward to visiting the source country. I made sure to go enjoy the music every night. I was very happy with the Cobblestone, which, as the guidebook says, hosts very authentic sessions. There are no mics or amplification so try to get close to the action, especially during a sung lament. On a busy evening the rest of the pub will be quite loud! You may be lucky to see more traditional instruments here; I enjoyed the elbow pipes. The beer was in good condition with Guiness going for 4.20 euro. I was impressed enough to go back for a second night and had even more fun than the first. I even caught a grateful local who drunkenly fell back from their stool, LOL ;) I went to Oliver St John Gogarty's (simply "Gogarty's Pub" in the guidebook) in Temple Bar just before 11 on a Friday night. Unfortunate timing really as not only was it heaving (with all available perches taken) but there's a break in the music from 11-11:30pm. So I was soon left with a ripoff 6.20-euro pint of Kilkenny with nowhere to sit (or stand at the bar), let alone feel comfortable butting into any of the groups of fellow tourists chatting amongst themselves. The music wasn't worth waiting for to start back up, as it was a bit of a joke: one guitar and one fiddle amplified to the max and shown on two widescreen TV's either side of the stage for those who couldn't see 'em through the throngs. Pretty corny, IMO! I gulped my beer down and retreated out into the street, where the busker/musicians were more interesting and the crowds more palatable :) Finally, I went to the Brazen Head on a Sunday night circa 9:30 and had a blast - staying until midnight and sadly never making it to O'Shea Merchants across the street as I had planned. But, if the "craic" is good, why not just run with it? There's no pressure to do a crawl ;) I spoke for a long time with a brilliant couple freshly arrived from sunny Virginia USA... don't be disappointed if you're temporary chums aren't actually Irish, as long as they are showing the sociable Irish spirit! Anyway house band the Brazen Hussies play on Sunday nights and bring some rock and bluegrass flavours along with more traditional Irish. They have real chops and know how to work the crowd up. Everything from a blistering "Duelling Banjoes" to a sing-a-long "Dirty Old Town" the whole crowd got into. Yeah, much of Dublin is inseed dirty so the song Dirty Old Town (actually about industrial Northern England) has been adopted as a local anthem of sorts. It's the tattered fringe of the city where you'll meet the most Irish, though, so don't fret about it being beautiful or not! And if you wonder what place "hillbilly" music has in Irish pubs, then you may be quite interested to learn the origin of the word (and people) "hillbillies"! In the end pubs are definitely "personal preference" places, so good luck! If you find one you like, don't shy away from returning on another night! Having a "local", or regular pub, is a part of the native culture. 3) Dublin Theatre I caught "The Seafarer" at the Abbey Theatre which was both hilarious and touching. Absolutely recommended, but unfortunately it's due to wrap up on June 7th. the theatre itself is pretty plain inside and the bar is almost unassailable during the intermission... if you have good manners, that is. People steal your place by calling their orders before being asked by the staff, and get away with it - even though everybody knows that YOU were there first! :) 4) Dublin Eats Gallagher's Boxty House, though pricey, was bang-on with tasty traditional dishes. Be prepared for a communal atmosphere because you will likely be sharing a table with other individuals or parties (even with a reservation). If you're staying in the west of town near near Phoenix Park you could definitely do worse than Ryan's on Parkgate Street. The restaurant does some great "modern" dishes with Irish elements (champ, black pudding, etc) and do good value 2- and 3- course early bird deals. The pub downstairs boasts a well preserved Victorian interior. 4) Over The Top Tours "Celtic Experience". Since I was travelling by public transport only, this minibus tour was immensely useful as a lovely way to see ancient sites as well as the beautiful countryside. There's not a lot of description of the tour in Rick's book, aside from destinations, so here's a key point you should know: guide commentary is at stops only... there is no microphone commentary in the minibus. If travelling as a pair, volunteer to sit in front with the driver. You will learn so many extra fascinating things this way. I was sat in the second row just drinking up all the facts from the front :) The guides will introduce the Hill of Tara at length, but then you are free to wander. They will not accompany you up the Hill so a printed map of the site will be helpful in interpreting what you see. I myself found it oddly peaceful up there. Finally, on the Sunday I went, the tour skipped the Battle of the Boyne viewpoint and the lunch stop was at the village of Collon rather than in Slane. On the Hill of Slane itself a memorial service was being held, so we had to be unobtrusive! Be mindful if this happens during your visit as well. 5) Waterford I was quite curious to take a day trip to Waterford not least because I grew up pretty near New Waterford :P For better or worse I had the 13:45 historic walking tour all to myself. The guide was very pleasant and informative, but I missed the questions that other people would have asked which often lead to interesting side tangents :) The Museum of Treasures was quite informative and enjoyable, though Reginald's Tower a bit underwhelming as the guided tour did not run that afternoon. In fact the whole town seemed a bit sleepy, and indeed a handful restaurants along the quay were out of business. I had a good pub lunch at T H Doolan's though, and found the staff quite friendly. The leg of the train journey from Kilkenny to Waterford was beautifully scenic; much of the rest of the journey from Dublin wasn't nearly as exciting. It's about 3 hours each way so I used the return journey to nap and recharge for another night on the town :) 6) Other Dublin attractions. National Museum (Archarology and History), Historic Walking Tour, Trinity College Tour, and Kilmainham Gaol all as terrific as described in the book, with the Gaol particularly thoughtfully presented. The Book of Kells exhibition was more difficult to enjoy with the maddening crowds, who, in spite of barely stopping to read a word, nevertheless formed a continuous stream in my face ;) (My visit started about 2pm). There is no public washroom in the library so run across the courtyard to the "ugly building" (as introduced on the tour) to use the facilities, grab a cuppa, or whatever before begining your Kells visit. 7) Conclusion. A sucessful visit to Dublin and the southeast with much help from the guidebook. I'll be using it to plan future trips to the North and to the Southwest. Happy travels! Brian Brian M in Portsmouth, UK 05/28/2008 I would second the recommendation for the town of Adare. It is a relatively short drive from Shannon airport - on the way you can stop at Bunratty - and is a lovely town to spend your first day in Ireland. I would also second the drive around the Loop Head peninsula, where it forms the top side of the Shannon Estuary. Working farms, little tourism, and on Wednesday, stop at the Lighthouse Inn in the tiny town of Kilbaha for an authentic "trad session and singsong." Bruce Grabowski in Barrington, IL USA 05/27/2008 Comments are from a trip we took May 2008 using the 2008 Ireland Guide. We did notice many folks also travelling with the blue "bible". Noel & Denise Underwood in Vienna, VA USA 05/25/2008 One of our favorite towns, Adare, was not in Rick's guidebook. This is a charming town with thatched roof cottages and shops, a beautiful park, and Holy Trinity Abby founded in 1230. Desmond Castle is nearby. We stayed at a lovely, immaculate B&B, Berkeley Lodge, run by Bridie Herlihy. Bridie was so kind to us (even offering the use of her cell phone and a key to her place after we had checked out to use her bathroom) and her sunny dining room and excellent cooking (French toast after all those Irish breakfasts--and ice in our water!!) put this reasonably priced place at the top of our list of recommendations. berlodge@iol.ie for Bridie and www.adare.org for the town of Adare, Limerick. Mary E. Thanasouras in Palm Beach, FL USA 05/22/2008 Try Loop Head instead of the Cliffs of Moher - same sort of cliffs (but with spectacular natural bridge formations), but almost no tourists at all. Park at the lighthouse and walk along the cliff path for great views. We spent a day on Inisheer and loved it - the sights are not as large as on Inishmor, and the island's not tourist-oriented at all, but the isolation and walking was great. Mike Brown in Harford, NY USA 05/16/2008 In Collooney, County Sligo (just south of Sligo City) is Markree Castle, www.markreecastle.ie, where we stayed 4/15/08. Marvelous accommodation with beautiful grounds and great staff; wonderful dining room with a great French chef! Chapel on premises where weddings can be held. M. Thanasouras in Palm Beach, FL USA 05/15/2008 We found a wonderful public playground across the street from the exit of the Kerry the Kingdom museum. Our three children were thrilled to play with "real" Irish kids, and the things to play on were very different from the types of playground structures we have at home. We also enjoyed strolling through the English Market in Cork City -- it was clean, the food was delicious, and there were just enough "thrilling" encounters with unusual foods to keep the kids happy (pigs heads anyone?) We had a lovely picnic in the center court. Lisa Natcharian in Wilbraham, MA USA 05/09/2008 During our recent visit to Ireland we discovered the delightful town of Skibbereen, West Cork. Worth the drive to and visit! Great restraunts, pubs, and bistro (recommended by the B&B proprieters). Also, we found the loveliest Georgian B&B, Grove House and Courtyard Cottages (Another tour book). The entrance and then the view of the "house" was a delight. The hosts, Anna, Peter and Kelly Warburton were very warm and shared the feeling of "country elegance". They purchased this Georgian B&B many years ago, delapitated but full of potential and with a lot of TLC it has been restored to its glory. Do take the time to visit someday, you will be glad you did. Their web:www.grovehouse.net and E-Mail: relax@grovehouse.net. Tel:028-22957, Fax:028-22958
Gerald and Beatrice Johnson in Palomar Mountain, CA USA 04/29/2008 The drive over Conner Pass; The town of Roundstone in Connemara; Healy Pass and the greater area around the Bearra peninsula just south of Kenmare - of course this includes Kenmare, the best town in all of Ireland; Getting lost while driving the back roads; and most of all, the Irish people and their culture. Bruce Grabowski in Barrington, IL USA 04/10/2008 (Dingle Penninsula) On Connor's Pass, at the pull-off with a waterfall: If you hike up the first large slope you come to Peddler's Lake. It is a beautiful setting a fantastic view of the valley. Also in Dingle: Between the Blasket Center and Louis Mulcahy's Pottery is a small pull-off at Clogher Head, a craggy hill that's a bit of a hike but gives you the best view of the Sleeping Giant, the coast, and a lovely beach. Natalie in Martin, WI USA 04/08/2008 Galway Ireland. I went on a tour with galway Tours in Galway and was really impressed with the stories and the general enthuasiasm of our guide. well worth checking out. www.galwaytours.ie anna winz in bern, Switzerland 04/03/2008 I agree with the Dunmore East recommendation. It was recommended to us by some native Irish folks we know, as a local secret. We stayed an the Rainbow Inn B&B hosted by Mary Nagel, who has a wealth of info about the culture as well as clean well kept rooms en suite. In August they have a - of all things - Blue grass festival, that sells out all accomodations. Nice little friendly pubs too. Great drive out from Waterford, through the country side to get there, Steve in Poulsbo, WA USA 04/02/2008 I'd highly recommend driving the west coast. We started in Galway and ended in Cork, and loved the entire trip! One thing Rick does not recommend which we enjoyed was a horse & carriage ride (jaunting car) through Killarney National Park. Our driver was fascinating to talk with and allowed us as much time as we wanted at Muckross House and the Torc waterfall. Granted we visted in October, so we paid a great low season price. Karis in Madison, WI USA 03/31/2008 Dunmore East and Woodstown beach,fantastic little fishing village and beautiful beach with lots of birds feeding on the shore line.Spent 4 wonderful days in bed and breakfast gaultier lodge, up at dawn to watch racehorses galloping on the beach then back for an amazing breakfast, fresh fruit, pancakes ,homemade jelly and irish scones and much more. harry watson in Raleigh, nc USA 02/12/2008 Le Bistro in Kinsale. The owners are Jacqui and Jean-Marc who used to be with the Chow House which was a Rick Steves recommendation. The food at Le Bistro was great and the owners very friendly and helpful. A definate recommendation. The phone number is 021 4777117 and email is eat@lebistrokinsale.com. Jeff Daggett in Edmonds, WA USA 01/19/2008 Camp Junction B&B on the Dingle Peninsula was fantastic. The host, John Doyle, was gracious, offered us a cup of tea on arrival, and had a wonderful place. We were the only guests when we stayed and John built us a fire each night, met us at the pub, and cooked a great breakfast. His contact details are +353 66 7130848 and his email is johndoyle@campjunctionhouse.com. Tim Jakubowski in Portland, OR USA 12/26/2007 Best Lunch we had in Ireland was at Cafe Hans in Cashel. It is on Moor Lane at the foot of the Rock. +353 (0) 62 63660. The larger Chez Hans (same owner) is nearby in a former church. It gets good reviews, but we did not have the opportunity to try it ourselves. In Westport our best meal was at Sol Rio on Bridge Street. We had pizza and baked oysters. Delicious. Tel. 098-28944. email solrie@iol.ie. Nelson Tennison in Mandeville, LA USA 12/09/2007 Woodlands House B & B, Cappagh, Kinsale, Ireland. www.woodlandskinsale.com Located in a quiet neighborhood on a hill overlooking the town, Brian & Valerie Hosford run a fabulous B & B, one that is spotless and an excellent bargain. We paid €100 for the largest room in the house. It had a king size bed and a twin in a family room. The breakfast was either a full Irish breakfast or a continental breakfast (or, both if you desired). Valerie even did some laundry for us when we asked. The view from our room included the entire harbor area of Kinsale. This is a top B & B.
Bill Sims in Encinitas, CA USA 11/27/2007 Packing in plastic zipper bags has been a big help in storage as well as keeping all of one item together, e.g., socks, underwear, making them easy to find. Mary and Bob Davidson in Greenwood, SC USA 11/17/2007 We stayed at Anvershiel B&B, and Victor suggested that we walk to Dunluce Castle, Giant's Causeway, and Bushmills's. It was one of the highlights of our 2 week trip. You will walk on a pathway (much safer than biking the 30 mile Dingle Loop..we did that too, and survived!!) The pathway takes you along the road and down to the beach, back up through the countryside, and onto the main road. It is very safe, and beautiful, like Dingle, but even better. Its a 2 hour walk. It is 3 miles to Dunluce castle, about 4 more miles to the Causeway, and 2 miles back to Bushmills where you can catch a bus back to Portrush. It is much cheaper to walk and enjoy the fresh air and scenery, and not worry about the bus schedules. It was Pure freedom. We did this on November 2, and the weather was blue skies. Deborah Wehunt in Mesa, AZ USA 11/12/2007 The Coolakay House B & B in Enniskerry was just a short distance south from the Dublin airport. We visited Powerscourt Garden after an early morning arrival, and then were within a mile of our B & B. Linda in Kailua, HI USA 11/01/2007 The guide book does not mention Malahide Castle. I planned to spend the night in Malahide the last night before leaving Ireland because of it's handy proximity to the Dublin airport. I was very surprised to find this glorious castle nearby. I was disappointed that I arrived too late to tour the inside. If I had known, I would have arrived earlier in the day. Malahide Castle is a glorious sight-both grounds and castle are very worthwhile. I was quite impressed that the Talbot family had inhabited the castle/their home for over 800 years. All in all, a serious omission from Rick's guide of Ireland I think. Beth Amos in Raleigh, NC USA 10/24/2007 There is a new bus service from the Airport to Dun Laoghaire called the Patton Flyer, 7 Euroes one way, few stops and its almost direct, much better and faster than a bus and train combination, www.thepattonflyer.ie Bob Dick in Atlanta, Ga USA 10/21/2007 Tip: when traveling Dingle Peninsula and Ring of Kerry by bus, remember to sit on the right side on Kerry and the left on Dingle. Busses go one way: counterclockwise on Kerry, clockwise on Dingle. Norm Carpenter in Minnetonka, MN USA 10/19/2007 We came upon a wonderful B&B right outside of Thomastown, 10 miles from Kilkenny and directly across the road from the Jerpoint Abbey... thus the name of the B&B is Abbey House. It was the best B&B we stayed in and the best value... the only one with a king-sized bed!! Helen Blanchfield is the owner and has been in business for 20+ years. The old mill associated with the Jerpoint Abbey is still standing next to the B&B. We recommend adding the tour (Heritage Card) of the abbey to your book, also. You can contact Helen at Carol & Rich Fike in Montrose, CO USA 10/14/2007 The “Museum of Country Life” is not in your book, but should be, we think. It is a few miles east of Westport and across the road from a monastery with a fine round tower. The museum provides the best explanation we encountered anywhere of Irish social and religious customs. We could have spent a whole day there. Good shop and restaurant too.
Richard Pine in Rockville , MD USA 10/12/2007 A suggestion. For some reason you don't mention Portstewart,Ireland, but rather, Portrush. We stayed 2 nights in Portstewart in Sept. , staying in Cul-Erg B&B. It is a beautiful home, just steps from the ocean, and run by a wonderful couple,Marie Maguire and husband, and their two children. It was the cleanest, most beautiful b&b that we stayed in on our 3 week trip. The bedrooms were exquisite with beautiful linens and duvets. The breakfasts were superb, the kitchen immaculate. Everything about the home was 5 star, and I feel it should definitely be included in your next Ireland travel book. Their website is culerg.co.uk, email culerg@btopenworld.com janet james in smiths falls, on canada 10/12/2007 The Ladyswell Restaurant in Cashel (on Ladyswell near Main)had the best Fish 'n Chips of the trip. Clean, bright--doesn't look special but the food was excellent. Cahir Castle (included in Heritage Card) was a stop definitely worth our time. John at Pax House in Dingle 353(0)66-9151518 was an amazing host--he was like having our own personal guide to the peninsula. Even gave us turn-by-turn directions to avoid traffic in Tralee (his hometown) on our way to the Tarbert Ferry. Susan & Steve in Fort Collins, CO USA 10/09/2007 Wau Asian Cuisine above the Sally Rogers bar on Bridge St in Trim. Excellent Asian food and service. John and Anita Dumire in Chicago, Il USA 10/08/2007 We chose the Dingle Peninsula over the Ring of Kerry and missed the huge tour bus route. Wonderful area! Theresa in Walnut Creek, CA USA 10/01/2007 My husband and I recently returned from a two week visit to Ireland (Aug 2007). While walking through the streets of Kinsale, we happened upon a charming restaurant, "Jola's Restaurant". The restaurant itself is lovely and intimate. The decor includes high ceilings, stone walls, a roaring fire, ample seating and a beautiful bar. The food was delicious. The servings were huge! The owner/hostess, Jola Wojtowicz, was on the premises and took the time to visit with each table - a very lovely person. My husband and I enjoyed a cozy and romantic dinner, which was the highlight of our visit. We would highly recommend this to anyone visiting Kinsale. The contact information is as follows: 18/19 Lower O’Connell Street, Kinsale. Tel: (021) 477 33 22 www.jolasrestaurant.com Nancy in Providence, RI USA 10/01/2007 One of the most meaningful experiences of our 16 days in Ireland was a taxi tour of Derry. Our driver was a man in his early 40's who had been an IRA freedom fighter as a teenager and young adult. He had spent five years in prison where he earned two college degrees. He was bright, articulate, balanced and full of information and hope. We can't guarantee that every driver would be that informative but he was excellent. Derry Taxi Tours. We would suggest adding this option to your tour section for Derry. The cost was 25 euros for the four of us for an almost three hour tour. Dale and Carla Harris, Hillsboro, Oregon Dale and Dale in Harris, OR USA 09/30/2007 A B&B in Dingle Clonmara, Milltown, Dingle Wonderful hosts, very helpful and informative. 10 minute (at most) walk to town A GORGEOUS view of the harbor from several rooms and the beautiful garden area. Quiet, clean, very modern and affordable. Hosts: Blandin & Michael O'Connor Milltown, Dingle, Co. Kerry. Telephone: 066-9151656 Ellen Veazey in Norway, Ma USA 09/27/2007 Rick does not recommend staying Doolin, but we did. We got the recommendation of the Dubhlinn House. Joan and Martin were very friendly, and made us feel very comfortable. It was dark, cold and rainy and we were very glad that we did not have to drive far to get to our bed after hearing the great music in the pubs. Mark & Kathy in Santa Clara, CA USA 09/24/2007 My husband and I rented a car in Dublin and traveled from Dublin north to Belfast and then down to leave through Shannon. If anyone would like any input please email me at irishroverchris@gmail.com chris helman in berea, oh USA 09/22/2007 Cullinan's Restaurant and Guest House website - www.cullinansdoolin.com - great place in Doolin Quay Wesst website quaywest@eircom.net - great place in Westport We followed Rick's drive from Westport on the R335 past the Coffin ship and Croagh Patrick to Leenane to Kylemore Abbey. The drive was lovely with great views, sheep meandering everywhere. chris and jim helman in berea, oh USA 09/22/2007 Cullinan's Seafood Restaurant and Guest House in Doolin- James and Carol Cullinan - great stay with them and they helped us with our flat tire - please include them! Quay West in Westport - David Kelly - lovely place and David is very accommodating chris and jim helman in berea, oh USA 09/22/2007 When all of Rick's B&B recommendations in Galway were full, we found Griffin Lodge. It's a family owned/run B&B with a convenient and quiet location. The best part is they placed traffic cones out front to reserve parking for guests. http://www.irishholidays.com/griffin.shtml Scott Joiner in Santa Clara, CA USA 09/21/2007 Dunlavin House in Dingle was fantastic ! Denise was everything a host should be ! The view was awesome-as well as the breakfast. Shower had power ! Room was huge ! Kathy in Coldwater, MI USA 09/20/2007 Your book was incredibly helpful on our recent trip to Ireland for our honeymoon! Everything was perfect and we used a lot of your book in place of paying for tours. Or found the book to be just as informationals as the tour guides. We did find a hotel in Dublin that would be worth listing. The George Handel Hotel on Fishamble Street right at the end of Temple Bar. For Sunday through Thursday, the rate is only 99.00 euros and was clean, pretty easy to find, and close to Temple Bar and O'Connell Street. It came recommended to us by some friends who stayed there a couple of years ago. Also, John Cleer's in Kilkenny on a Monday night for the best singing bartender and local's playing great music! It was recommended by a local when we went for dinner! Sara Curran in St. Louis, MO USA 09/17/2007 Just spent 2 weeks on the Dingle Pinn....staying in Dunquin. Cool, lots of rain but never spent a day indoors!! Oh..all the beach spots, the Blaskets and the Blasket Center...fabulous!! It was a family reunion of 3 generations and I'd go back again in a second. Have bought Ryan's Daughter just to enjoy the scenery! Took your recommended tour of the old archeological sites which was excellent. Had many good meals in the pubs, Kreuger's reopened and the place was jumping!! Do love this part of Ireland....even went to Mass in Irish in the old Dunquin church where Tomas O'Crohan is buried and visited Peig Sayers grave as well. It's a place that seems to be disappearing and I'm happy I was there while it's still a piece of old Ireland. Florence Mahoney in Rockville, Md USA 09/01/2007 We saw found two nice places to eat in Bushmill. One was called Cafe 13 (?) and one was the Old Distillary I believe. Really enjoy your books and have used them in Italy, France, GB and Spain. This is the first time we have thought you should take a hotel off your list that we stayed at (Townhouse in Dublin see below. Otherwise it was another great trip. Thank you see and your staff. John McGuire in Minneapolis, MN USA 08/27/2007 We visited in June, 2007 Before you depart: - Purchase euros before you depart. Have euros handy for taxi and toll roads. (Toll roads are around Dublin and Cork) Only a few banks sell euros, so purchase them well in advance of your departure. - Email/Contact all accommodations to get specific directions and confirm your length of stay before you leave the USA. Some B&Bs/Farmhouses are really off the main roads and are difficult to find due to the lack of road markers even with the Ordance Survey Atlas. - Take a travel alarm or watch alarm because many B&Bs/Farmhouses don’t have clock radios. - Everyone smokes so be warned. - Be sure you clearly understand your international cell phone capabilities. Keep the emergency contact number in a safe place. - Alert your credit card company of your travel dates and keep the emergency contact number in a safe place. - Check your medical coverage restrictions and alert them to your travel dates. Be sure you get itemized copies of any bills, receipts, etc for any medical care/needs. Once you get there: - Buy a Heritage Card at the first place that sells them. Some places don’t take VISA for their purchase. - See if your travel agent or tour package company sells/provides the Heritage Island Card (a discount booklet). Brendan Tours provided it. These are definitely worth it! - Most pubs only serve Guinness, Carlsberg, Heineken, Bud and Miller beer. A glass of 7-Up costs more than a 1/2 pint of Guinness. - Many pubs don’t serve food so children under 18 can’t go in. Pubs that do serve food stop serving around 9pm when the music starts, so it’s difficult to find places for the kids to listen to live Irish Music. In Temple Bar, the upstairs part of Gogarty’s has decent food and they don’t kick kids out at 9pm. Music is good! - Ring of Kerry – we drove counter clockwise (against Rick Steve’s suggestion) but we left Killarney by 7am. We stopped at a gas station at the beginning of the route and picked up breakfast and lunch. The StatOil just outside Killorglin opens at 7:30am and has great food. We only met 2 busses and they pulled off while we kept going. We picnicked in the parking lot at Staigue Fort (great view!). We still made it back in time to see Torc Waterfall and Muckross House. - Dartfield Horse Museum, between Loughrea and Killreekill, on road from Galway to Dublin, is a nice little museum, offers trail rides, nice tack shop but not really worth the admission price without the Heritage Island Card discount. - Clonmacnoise, outside Athlone, is as amazing as Glendolough! B&Bs/Farmhouses: Waterford Castle, Waterford = difficult to find and expensive, but well worth it for one night. They are building a horse arena/stables and should be finished in 2008. Golf course is expensive but beautiful. Briar Lodge B&B, Bunratty = great innkeeper and breakfast (french toast); very helpful Fort View Farmhouse, Kinvara = innkeeper was aloof, breakfast was dull, it's way off the main road; don't stay here!
D Husby in Moraga, CA USA 08/24/2007 The Legends B & B in Cashel does have a restaurant, but it offers a single set 3-course meal (with limited choices). It appeared to be a very nice menu, but not family-friendly. The dinner guests, adapting to the meal price, were in more than casual attire. Margo Malakoff in Sierra Madre, CA USA 08/23/2007 The Camp Junction B&B on the Dingle Peninsula was a good find. This is a 2 yr old B&B run by the very hospitable John Doyle, a local who knows the area well. Great Irish breakfast incldued for our 100 euros / nite for three. The location requires a car since it is out in the country, about halfway between Dingle town and Tralee. Makes for a good sleeping location if you want to travel both the Kerry and Dingle peninsulas. Web site is www.campjunctionhouse.com Telford Williams in Mpls, MN USA 08/20/2007 Tips: 1)The best way to see Ireland is to rent a car and drive it. 2)If you rent a car, figure out before you leave the country if your insurance will cover you, or if your credit card will provide insurance for you. 3) Do not rent and drive a car in Ireland without the maximum insurance you can get. Driving in Ireland is the best way to see the island by far, but it's hazardous. 4) When you rent your car, figure out where the passenger side of your car is by carefully driving closer and closer to the edge of the road until the hedges scrub your car so hard they push in your sideview mirror in. You will need to know how far you can get over when an american comes around a blind hairpin in your lane. Your life depends on it. 5)Eat local food. Don't eat at McDonald's. 6)If you have to eat at McDonald's, please don't throw your McDonald's fast food bags out of the car window on the Dingle Peninsula. (Yes - I saw this happen.) 7) Take lots of pictures. 8) Rick says to tour the island with the expectation that you will return. I disagree with this. See the island as though you will die tomorrow. You'll get more out of your trip, and you may not ever be back. You never know. 9) Do not walk on the left side of the road. Walk on the right side of the road, facing traffic. Most people don't realize how dangerous it is to walk on the wrong side of the road in Ireland. Trust me. It's suicide. 10) You mention in the guidebook that they will offer to convert your bill to dollars on the spot when you charge something. I had a restaurant/bar in Kenmare convert mine without asking me when they ran it. You might want to mention that people watch for this and suggest what we can do. I guess I could have disputed it, but it's a little intimidating to be in a foreign country using a foreign currency, so I just let it go, unsure if what they had done was S.O.P., illegal, or just under-handed. 11) I put the Red L's on my car as you suggested. It helped, I think. Made me feel better anyway. 12) Seeing Ireland by train is not a very good way to see the country. I took a train from Dublin to Cork, thinking it would be a splendid way to see the countryside. Wrong. Hedges grow up around the train track almost the whole way, limiting visibility immensely. Big disappointment. 13) I didn't see anything in the book about the ocean temperatures. My point is, it's too cold to swim in the ocean. OK. You could swim in it. I saw some people doing this. However, it's cold. PRobably as cold the ocean on the coast of Oregon, would be my guess. 14) Garda/Police. I'd say you might want to mention that you can drive as fast as you dare. You might hit sheep, cows, or a tractor, but I doubt the police would stop you. We hardly saw any police/garda the entire trip, and we covered about 1/3 of the island. Rob Kiser in Morrison, CO USA 08/16/2007 Stayed at the Twin Peaks B&B in Doolin. Proprieter Noel O'Connor and his sister who run the B&B truly made our time in Ireland spectacular. We only spent 2 nights here, but wished we could have spent more, simply because of these great people. Steve, add them to your Doolin B&B list! http://www.doolin-accommodations.com/index.html Shannon Buckner in Brussels, Belgium 08/12/2007 Desmond House next door to the Presbytery in Kinsale. Gorgeous room, fine hosts Jean Boler in Seattle , Wa USA 08/11/2007 Restaurant David Norris - Tralee, Co. Kerry Ivy House Ivy Terrace , Tralee Co Kerry Tel:+353 (0)66 718 5654 This is an exceptional restaurant by any standard. None better in any large metropolitan area. Mary Jane in Archenbronn, CA USA 08/09/2007 Cahir Castle (in Cahir) was the best castle tour I've ever been on. Its not far from Rock of Cashel and is much more interesting (in my opinion) Also, the Glen of Atherlow (again, nearby) is great. Beautiful walks,stone age tomb and cairn and Saint's wells. Shannon Roberts in Glenside, PA USA 08/08/2007 If you would like to see Ashford Castle (outside Cong) without paying the 5 Euro charge per person, you can enter the grounds of Ashford Castle by driving through the city of Cong and entering the Castle grounds through the "back way" near the church. C. Ruiz in Phoenix, AZ USA 08/08/2007 My wife and I just returned from three weeks in Ireland and loved it (even if the weather was wet). When we booked B&Bs three and four months ahead, all the places recommended in Rick's book for Kenmare were full. So, we found Abbeycourt, with Geraldine and Brendan. It is right next to the golf course. The building is like a small castle itself; purpose built for lodging. The grounds fantastic, and a lovely view of the area. The cost is the same as other B&Bs. And, they were tremendous hosts (promoted gathering in the late afternoon with tea and cookies provided, loaned us maps for day use, and gave us choices for breakfast.) Check them out. As for the VAT refund, do it! It was easy, if you remember to get a tax voucher when you make the proper refundable purchases. And, lastly, the music concert in St. James in Dingle (Thursday evenings only) and the Evensong performance on WEd./Thurs eve. at Christchurch Cathedral in Dublin were one of our most memorable events. And, consider adding a trip to Cahir and the castle. It has been completely restored so it feels like being in a complete, operating castle. Sincerely, Dan Peterson in Brier, WA USA 08/08/2007 We absolutely loved the suggestions from Rick Steve's Ireland guidebook. A couple of additional suggestions We think you should add "The Acres" Bed and Breakfast near Dingle to your list of recommended accomodations. Martin and Paula Taylor are the consummate hosts, providing wonderful suggestions for hiking, dining, and even providing maps, offers to pick us up at the end of a hike etc. Their rooms are beautiful and comfortable, and breakfasts phenomenal. We also loved staying at "Evergreen" B and B near Swords outside of Dublin. This excellent accomodation is ten minutes from Dublin airport, but is on a quiet road in a beautiful setting. Mary and Jimmy Canavan are delightful hosts who also offered much help and flexibility with our complicated arrival and departure arrangements, and gave us excellent advice on seeing and getting to Dublin. Barbara Stark-Nemon in Ann Arbor, MI USA 08/08/2007 Your accomodation suggestion - Boulevard Guest House Patricia McManus in Haworth, NJ USA 08/07/2007 The Burren Perfumery Shop and Tea House was great!! I cannot believe Achill Island is not mentioned as a site to see anywhere in this book. The scenery there is absolutely gorgeous and the TI representative was so friendly. Keem Bay and the Deserted Village are worth the day there. In Newport, Mayo..Anchor House B&B (Maureen McGovern)had nice views of the harbor and great hospitality. Also The Grainne Uaile Pub had outstanding food and was named Mayo Pub of the Year 2006 Mary Wise in Bay Village, OH USA 08/02/2007 Hi Rick... The Skelligs islands were the most memorable part of our 19 day Ireland trip. We got super lucky because the weather was amazing the day we made it to the islands. The day before and the day after were both rainy. I encourage everyone who can handle a moderate hike and a short boat trip see this world heritage site. James in Seattle , WA USA 08/01/2007 It was hard to find accomodation on the Dingle Peninsula, so we ended up staying in Annascaul outside of Dingle. We LOVED the bed and breakfast I found through another website. The owners were amazing and a highlight of our trip. Contact info: Noel & Moira, Annascaul House, Annascaul, Co. Kerry Phone: +353 (0) 66 9157033 Web: www.annascaulhouse.ie
Amy in Kloese, IL USA 07/27/2007 not really. Sandy Patrick in Taylorville, IL USA 07/24/2007 Nua Haven in Dublin was a great place for my wife and I to stay. It is not for those who want the full Irish breakfast as it is a buffet breakfast, continental style, but the location is fantastic. It is an easy 30 minute walk, which we thoroughly enjoyed discoverying the neighborhoods. It was great to enjoy the loud and energetic life in the city centre and then come "home" to the quiest B&B location I have ever stayed in. It is located near Harold's Cross just south of the canal. It is on a quiet residential street with a city park space directly across from it. The rooms are large and immaculate. The building has been newly constructed. It is also one block from the bus line. We never did use the bus for the ride into town, we just used it at the end of the day to return home at night. Contact information is at: http://www.nuahaven.com/ Paul Stanley in Maple Ridge, BC Canada 07/19/2007 Please advise to be wary of car/ trunk space. We rented from hertz on-line throgh aer lingus: a Mazda 6 or comparable for four adults and 4 bags(as per website): couldn't fit one bag!! How do they golf in Ireland?? Needed to upgrade which doubled the cost. Kathy Ryan in Rockaway Beach, NY USA 07/18/2007 Ireland, Bushmill Tour visited July 14, 2007. Change in the volunteer info provided in Rick's book. Elaine Hart in Dallas, Tx USA 07/16/2007 --In addition to Rick's book, I'd also recommend for further reading: Culture Smart Ireland (Culture Shock Consulting) --Perhaps already mentioned in Rick's book, but I followed the advice in Culture Smart Ireland pertaining to common courtesy practices. I discovered that saying "please" and "thank you" as noted in the Culture Smart book went an extremely long way when dealing with middle-aged and older Irish and opened lots of doors. I probably heard (and said) "please" more in that week in Ireland than I have my entire life--and didn't regret it. --Never drive faster than you can see and safely brake. My first 15 minutes ever of driving in Ireland, I discovered that even National roads can become alarmingly narrow around the bend (especially when a truck is barrelling down the opposite direction). --Bang-on advice in the book about not expecting to drive quickly. One can make healthy time on the EU-subsidized roads (while exercising _extreme_ caution overtaking), but driving slowly through villages and smaller N roads is simply a reality. --On nearly all occasions, drivers in West Ireland (only place I went) were extremely polite (Rick's "sharing the road" comment), and I'd recommend that the book briefly mention that it's wise for us to follow common practice and let people merge into traffic at intersections, etc., even if we have the right of way. --I picked up (removable) vinyl L stickers at Eason's in Galway. For those new to driving in Ireland, I think this is a worthy courtesy to native drivers who will exercise more caution. --A brief description on polite use of turn signals at roundabouts would be nice. These were frequently used (and I likely caused a little grief by not doing so). Pete Lee in Portland, OR USA 07/10/2007 Kissane Sheep Farm www.kissanesheepfarm.com N71 Moll's Gap Kenmare t:064 34791 After seeing thousands of sheep in Scotland and Ireland it was a treat to visit this farm and get answers to all our questions about sheep and sheep farms. The Kissanes are so friendly and accommodating and their working farm is fun and informative. We felt like family friends visiting instead of customers. Definitely worth a stop or a side trip! Cindy Lemmer in Green Bay, WI USA 07/08/2007 I'd like to offer some tips for families traveling to Ireland with younger teens. We just returned from a family trip with our almost-14-year-old son, and there were several things he really enjoyed: Local sports. He became fascinated with hurling, and the purchase of a hurling stick and ball provided lots of entertainment on the trip. We also watched a cricket game in progress on the grounds of Trinity College in Dublin. Blarney Castle -- I know Rick thinks this is a tourist trap, but we found it quite fun. My son particularly enjoyed the challenge of climbing all the steps up and kissing the stone. Lots of rocks and caves for active boys to explore! Waterford Crystal Factory Tour -- An excellent tour the whole family enjoyed. My teen was fascinated watching the craftsmen in all the steps, and got a kick out of seeing all the sports trophies Waterford has made. Rebecca Stowe in Jefferson, GA USA 07/05/2007 Galway, west of Ireland. Karen Platt in Cardiff, n/ Wales 07/02/2007 Dunromin B&B, Dublin Road, Kilkenny; tel: 056-7761387; Tom & Val Rothwell - excellent B&B and charming hosts; easy to find and walking distance to city center; www.dunrominkilkenny.com Roadford House Restaurant, Doolin Village; (065-707-5050); excellent dinner in very tasteful setting; Frank & Marian Sheedy, Owner/Chef and Hostess, respectively; contact: roadfordhouse@eircom.net Mermaid Cafe, 69-70 Dame Street, Dublin 2; (01-670-8236); www.mermaid.ie; excellent quality lunch for reasonable price; dinner menu also looked good (albeit more expensive) Bridie McDermott, "Cashel Cairns" B&B, Westport area (between Castlebar and Westport); (098-35141); immaculate B&B with very warm and welcoming hosts; in a quiet rural setting about 4km south of N-5; great base for travel in the Connemara area.
Bob Lata in Paso Robles, CA USA 07/01/2007 I only had a few days to spend this trip, but I can't wait to go back. I spent three days in Dublin and two in Dingle. Next time, I would spend less time in Dublin. Too big and too fast paced for me on vacation. I did the pub crawl, which I loved, but please recommend to your readers to make reservations. I don't have the info, but it can be found at the TI. I showed up early and had dinner beforehand, but when it came time to sign up, I was told it was already full, although I was the first in line. Many people were turned away. I was traveling by myself and evidently looked pathetic enough, so she let me slide. Everything else was wonderful, though. I love your books and have not been surprised by anything so far. I stayed at the Last Cottage in Dingle, and your description "museum-like" and "comfortably cluttered" hit the nail on the head. It was great. Thanks! Angela McConnell in Madras, OR USA 06/29/2007 After reading Ricks Steves Ireland, we decided to take a trip to the Dingle Peninsula and stay in Dingle Town in early June 2007. It was the best part of our Ireland/Scotland trip. We flew into Shannon and drove to the town of Dingle the next day. We did not stay at any of the B&B's listed in your book as they were full. I did book us three rooms at Murphy's B&B (right next to Murphy's Pub B&B). Our hosts were wonderful. The rooms were en suite and spotless with very comfortable beds. We had a parlor upstairs that looked out over the Harbor. Breakfast was tradishional Irish in a lovely room overlooking the harbor also. We were given many tips on exploring the Peninsula, which we took and were very pleased. Murphy's B&B is located on the main street, across from the Harbor. Right next door was Murphy's Pub where we listed to Traditional Irish Music being played nightly from 9 to 12. Tons of shopping right at hand. Our Hosts made this a wonderful time for us and I believe Murphy's B&B should be added to your Guidebook. We will certainly return again. Debra Brown in San Diego, CA USA 06/27/2007 If you ever HAVE to go to Cork, eat at Greene's Restaurant,48 MacCurtain St., hidden under a cobblestone arch and a little hard to find. Yummy. Seating by fabulous outdoor waterfall. Also, I found that a coffee or latte and dessert were not much more money in a nice hotel, than in a loud coffee house. Kevann Lamkin in Azusa, CA USA 06/15/2007 Cafe En Seine 39 Dawson St Dublin near Grafton St. Food so-so, but atmosphere art deco,rocco, astonishing. Woderful bathrooms. Kevann Lamkin in Azusa, USA 06/15/2007 Just a quick tip: when picking up your rental car, don't forget to also inspect the tires before driving off! I popped a tire within the first few hours of driving. When the local tire shop in Kinsale (very helpful staff, by the way) pulled it out to look at it, there were so many rub marks that I assume I was the last of a long line of folks who'd hit curbs or something - but it hadn't popped until my "lucky" hit. Elizabeth in Burlingame, CA USA 06/11/2007 We learned from our B&B hostess in Dun Laoghaire that from June 1 through August, those providing accomodations within County Dublin are to charge an additional Euro 7.50 per night per room. Robert McNaughton in Middletown, CT USA 06/10/2007 Both Air Coach and Air Link buses stop on O'Connell. Air Coach loads luggage under the bus, while Air Link passengers take their luggage into the bus with them. This makes Air Link buses very crowded and time consuming to load and unload. Sharron Stevens in Oberstaufenbach, Germany 06/10/2007 (1) If you're staying overnight in County Clare, visit the Cliffs of Moher at sunset. The crowds are gone, the cliffs are gorgeous tinted in gold from the setting sun, and the car park is open and free of charge at that hour. (2) Stay overnight in Cashel and see the Rock first thing in the morning. It's a mystical place when it's quiet, before the tour buses start arriving. Melissa in Fairfax, VA USA 06/08/2007 Notice to intended GALWAY TRAVELLERS. There has been a boil water notice in Galway since mid March. Latest indications in local press are that it will remain in place until mid June. Issue is crytosporidium in water. For those who may be particularly at risk due to prior or current medical condition, tap water is ill advised, care to be taken with ice in drinks and uncooked food washing in dining establishments. Outside Galway accomodations may be good alternative to those at risk or for those who would feel better in a clear water environment. McNeil's On Canda 06/04/2007 This is a big thank you for getting us out of a blind spot during our first ever Ireland tour which went marvelously having used your book as a guide. Story is we headed from Kinsale north to the ferry for Cobh and ended up at the international ferry terminal. I had been navigating and blithely following the ferry signs. My husband said, "Hand me the guide book!" and in no time we were on our way to the right ferry. Only time we opened the book while there because I had been able to plan so well ahead of time. Thanks a million! Peggy McGrath in Oak Bluffs, MA USA 06/04/2007 Thank you for your guide - very user friendly information, like how to dial the phone, where to stop, maps to use, etc. Thanks, too, for the general km/miles per hour equivalents - my rental car only had kms, and it was rather disconcerting crossing over into Northern Ireland to find fewer circled speed limits and more of "slow", "slower" and "very slow" references painted on the roads without knowing exactly what thay might mean. I also laughed at the narrow windy roads with 100 km posted speed limits just in front of a hairpin turn or a sudden reduction in speed warning just a few feet beyond!! We were probably too ambitious during our 8 days on the ground - and didn't refer often enough to the general driving time recommendations on p. 23, or the direct routes either - we did a lot of coastal route transit between major northern points and found we had little time to enjoy the destination, but did really enjoy the views along the various coastline communities. Colleen in Bloom, MD USA 06/04/2007 The Cliffs of Moher opened a new tour center, restaurant, and gift shop in February 2007. It is a welcome addition. A parking lot has also been established with a 8 euro fee to park. David Evans in Oak Hill, VA USA 06/01/2007 Blarney Castle is very worth the time, even though it is a tourist stop. Especially in spring, it was lovely. Katherine and Allen Steele in Brambleton, VA USA 05/16/2007 Just returned from 2 weeks in Ireland and followed Rick's book for most of the trip. What a wonderful country! One place not mentioned in his book that we loved was Clonmacnoise, a monastic settlement along the Shannon River in central Ireland. Interesting video, museum as well as the sight itself. Judy Johnson in Alexandria, MN USA 05/11/2007 We spent a night at the Markree Castle in Collooney and really enjoyed it. It manages to be elegant, yet old and well-worn enough to be both charming and comfortable. Everything was clean, the food was good and the grounds were beautiful. It's one of the less-expensive castle stays, and overall it was a real treat. I would most definitely go back again. Mary Alcorn in Fort Hancock, TX USA 05/09/2007 I discovered a wonderful B&B through a co-worker who grew up with the wonderful woman who owns, lives there and runs the Villa Maria in Leagh South, Burren, Co. Galway, her name is Anne Martin. email:vmaria@eircom.net, tel:353(0)65 7078019. She is a delightful human being and perfect hostess. The house is immaculate and the back yard is the Burren and the front yard looks out on Galway Bay. She took me sightseeing when her time permitted since I was traveling alone. Her dog, Sheila, golden lab, provided a much needed pet fix. The location is perfect for the Castle in Kinvara or the Cliffs of Moher, Galway and the Burren. Kathleen Surrette in Stratford, CT USA 05/07/2007 We spent 3 weeks in Northern Ireland in September of 2005. My mother parents were from the Ards so we spent time with relatives for a week staying in a "self catering cottage". That was way fun! Then we ventured out spending time going from east coast to the west coast and then up along the northern coast. Gorgeous! Wow is all I can say. We found by accident a hidden away gem of a place in Cushendall, County Antrim. The best view in Ireland at the Culbidagh House Bed and Breakfast. A lovely clean charming newer home up high on the hills overlooking the Irish Sea. The owners are darling! We had a difficult time leaving as we were having so much fun with the owners! Roisin Hamill is the hostess. Phone in Ireland is 028 2177 1312 Mobil 077 12 815 331. Enjoy! and All the Best! HarLyn Mlynek Colorado Springs, Colorado USA HarLyn Mlynek in Colorado Springs, Co USA 05/06/2007 Markree Castle, County Sligo. The grounds were marvelous,the dinners to-die-for and the service was great! www.markreecastle.ie karen williams in windsor heights, ia USA 04/29/2007 The Old Courthouse in Lifford (Co.Donegal)(info@liffordoldcourthouse.com) Excellent presentation of the justice and jail system in Ireland under English rule. Audio visual presentations are follwed by a guided tour of the cells with stories of actual cases. We had ages 15 to 74 in our group of 12 and everyone enjoyed the stop. In Donegal Town there is a very good guided tour of Donegal Castle - lots of history leading up to English rule and the flight of the Earls. This should be done the day before Lifford Jail. To see a master of stone sculpture (he was working on a copy of the cross at Clonmacnoise for the Ancient Order of the Hibernians in Portland, Oregon) visit Brendan McGloin at the Dongal Craft Village. He is self taught and his carvings are beautiful. brendanmcgloin@iolfree.ie At Caherconnell stone fort in the Burrens the rental of headsets for 1 euro is a must. Excellent presentation on what you are seeing as you wander around the area. In Galway, Conor Riordan (+353(0)877782887) gives an excellent walking tour of the city including the old cemetary where 400 Spanish soliders of the Armada were hanged. e-mail:info@legendtours.ie Elizabeth Whalen in Miami, Fl USA 04/20/2007 We found the ireland guide book to be excellent. We went to Dingle and followed the book for our own dingle experience. The guide was so good we did not need to go on a tour. Another one of your readers used Cill Breac house b.and b. It was perfect and located on the slea head drive. Your guidebook also helped us by warning of the location and diffuculty of finding the Cobh[COVE} ferry. The book was well worth the money. By the way, the weather was warm, beautiful, and no rain during the first week of April. We came back to snow in Virginia. Thanks for the guide! thomas b. and marcia m. lynn in gloucester, va USA 04/12/2007 There are a number of very attractive, convenient b&bs in Dublin's Upper Drumcondra Road area. We stayed at Azalea Lodge (azalealodge@eircom.net), which was terrific in every way. We also loved Carriglea (archers@iol.ie), a stone's throw from Kilkenny Castle. M Heffron in Exeter, NH USA 04/11/2007 Does anyone know why Limestone Lodge in Kenmare is no longer listed in 2007 guidebook? Is Siobhan still running this as a B&B? Bruce USA 04/09/2007 Kinsale: The Greyhound Pub. A great pub with chatty locals. Kilkenny: Paris, Texas Pub. A great pub which featured local traditional Irish bands. Erin Peabody in Great Lakes, IL USA 03/30/2007 The Grey Hound Pub in downtown Kinsale is an outstanding pub worthy of consideration for inclusion in your book. Todd Peabody in Great Lakes, IL USA 03/29/2007 The Boulevard Guesthouse Westport, County Mayo Curt Iles in Dry Creek, LA USA 03/18/2007 A little cafe I really enjoyed in Dublin was the Queen of Tarts on Dame Street. This cute little cafe is right across the street from the Dublin Castle, so it is a perfect lunch stop. The food was excellent and the desserts, very yummy. I had the Baily's Chocolate Chip Cheesecake and it was wonderful! The place is owned by two sisters, Yvonne was working that day and she struck up a conversation with me while I ate my lunch. I was in Dublin for the week and on my own so she gave me some helpful hints for single ladies. I enjoyed the expereince very much and thought that other followers of Rick Steves' would enjoy it too. Anne Hughes in Bothell, WA USA 03/05/2007 My husband and I travelled to Ireland in May and the only accomodations we made before were our first 2 nights in Dublin. We reserved a car to pick up after our 2 days in Dublin (no need for a car in Dublin). We drove from city to city and your book (Rick Steves' Ireland 2006) was perfect. Grecco's in Toledo, OH USA 01/22/2007 If in Galway, be sure to wander off the main street and enjoy great little shops, restaurants, and pubs with few if any tourists. Also note that one can easily walk to Salthill. Brett Fleitz in Carmel, In USA 01/10/2007 |
