Italy: Accommodations Listings
Included in this section:
37. Cinque Terre
38. Hill Towns of Central Italy
39. North Italy Choices: Milan, Lakes, or Mountains
40. Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and a Steamy Volcano
41. Sassy, Spicy Sicily
37. Cinque Terre: Italy's Fiat-Free Riviera
Sleeping on the Cinque Terre
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
While the Cinque Terre is too rugged for the mobs that ravage the Spanish and French coasts, it's popular with Italians, Germans, and in-the-know Americans. Hotels charge more and are packed on holidays, in July and August, and on Fridays and Saturdays all summer. August weekends are worst. But €65 doubles abound throughout the year. For a terrace or view, you might pay an extra €20 or more. Apartments for four can be economical for families — figure on €100–120.
Book ahead if you'll be visiting in June, July, August, on a weekend, or around a holida. At other times, you can land a double room on any day by just arriving in town (ideally by noon) and asking around at bars and restaurants, or simply by approaching locals on the street. Many travelers enjoy the opportunity to shop around a bit and get the best price by bargaining. Private rooms — called affitta camere — are no longer an intimate stay with a family. They are generally comfortable apartments (often with small kitchens) where you get the key and come and go as you like, rarely seeing your landlord. Often landowners rent the buildings by the year to local managers, who then attempt to make a profit by filling them night after night with tourists.
For the best value, visit three private rooms and snare the best. Going direct cuts out a middleman and softens prices. Staying more than one night gives you bargaining leverage. Plan on paying cash. Private rooms are generally bigger and more comfortable than those offered by the pensions and offer the same privacy as a hotel room.
If you want the security of a reservation, make it at a hotel long in advance (smaller places generally don't take reservations that far ahead). Query by email, not fax. If you do reserve, honor your reservation (or, if you must cancel, do it as early as possible). Since people renting rooms usually don't take deposits, they lose money if you don't show up. Cutthroat room hawkers at the train stations might try to lure you away from a room that you've already reserved with offers of cheaper rates. Don't do it. You owe it to your hosts to stick with your original reservation.
Sleeping in Vernazza
Vernazza, the essence of the Cinque Terre, is my top choice for a home base. There are two recommended pensions and piles of private rooms for rent. Anywhere you stay here will require some climbing. Night noises can be a problem if you're near the station. Rooms on the harbor come with church bells (but only from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m). Unlike in other villages, prices do not include breakfast unless otherwise noted. Only one building in Vernazza has an elevator.
Trattoria Gianni rents 23 small rooms and three new apartments just under the castle. The rooms are in two buildings — one funky, one modern — up a hundred tight, winding spiral stairs. The funky ones, which may or may not have private baths, are artfully decorated à la shipwreck, with tiny balconies and grand sea views (con vista sul mare). The new (nuovo), comfy rooms lack views, but have a super-scenic, cliff-hanging guests' garden. Both have modern bathrooms. Steely Marisa requires check-in before 16:00 or a phone call to explain when you're coming. Manuele (Gianni's son, who now runs the restaurant), Simona, and the staff speak a little English (S-€43, D-€60, Db-€85, Tb-€105, 10 percent discount with cash and current Rick Steves' Italy book in 2008 — request when you reserve, cancellations required 48 hours in advance or you'll be charged one night's deposit, closed Jan–Feb, Piazza Marconi 1, tel. & fax 0187-812-228, tel. 0187-821-003, www.giannifranzi.it, info@giannifranzi.it). Pick up your keys at Trattoria Gianni's restaurant/reception on the harbor square, and hike up scores of steps to funky old #41 or new and modern #47 at the top. If you arrive on Wednesday, when the restaurant is closed, pick up your keys at the gelateria by the grotto.
Albergo Barbara, on the harbor square with nine simple but clean and modern rooms, is run by kindly, English-speaking Giuseppe and his Swiss wife, Patricia (D-€50, Db-€60–65, big Db with view-€100, 2-night stay preferred, fans, closed Dec–Feb, Piazza Marconi 30, tel. & fax 0187-812-398, mobile 338-793-3261, reserve online but pay cash, www.albergobarbara.it, albergobarbara@libero.it). The two big doubles on the third floor come with grand harbor views (top-floor doubles have small windows and small views).
Affitta Camere
Vernazza is honeycombed with private rooms year-round, offering the best values in town. Owners may be reluctant to reserve rooms far in advance. It's easiest to call a day or two ahead or simply show up in the morning and look around. Doubles cost €50–70, depending on the view, season, and plumbing. Most places accept only cash. Some have killer views, come with lots of stairs, and cost the same as a small dark place on a back lane over the train tracks. Little English is spoken at many of these places. If you call to let them know your arrival time (or call when you arrive, using the pay phone just below the station), they'll meet you at the train station.
Tonino Basso rents four super, clean, modern rooms — at a steep price. Each room has its own computer for free Internet access. He's located near the post office, in the only building in Vernazza with an elevator. You get tranquility and air-conditioning, but no views. This is the only affita camere that takes credit cards (Sb-€60, Db-€100, Tb-€120, Qb-€150, call Tonino's mobile number upon arrival and he'll meet you, tel. 0187-821-264, mobile 335-269-436, fax 0187-812-807, toninobasso@libero.it). If you can't locate Tonino, ask his friends at Enoteca Sotto L'Arco at Via Roma 70.
Camere Fontana Vecchia is a delightful place, with four bright, spacious, quiet rooms near the post office (no view). As the only place in Vernazza with almost no stairs to climb and the sound of a babbling brook outside your window, it's a great value (D-€60, Db-€75, T-€90, Tb-€110, €5 less off-season, fans and heat, open all year, Via Gavino 15, tel. & fax 0187-821-130, mobile 333-454-9371, m.annamaria@libero.it, youthful and efficient Anna speaks English).
Giuliano Basso rents four pleasant rooms, crafted with care, just above town in the terraced wilds (sea views from terraces). Straddling a ravine among orange trees, it's an artfully decorated, Robinson Crusoe–chic wonderland, proudly built out of stone by Giuliano himself (Db-€70, Db-suite-€100 with air-con, apartment with private rooftop balcony-€100, fridge access, above train station — so with more train noise than others, mobile 333-341-4792, or have the Enoteca Sotto L'Arco at Via Roma 30 contact him or his American partner Michele, www.cdh.it/giuliano, giuliano@cdh.it). Call to be met at the station. To walk there, head inland from the station and hike up the Corniglia trail; 100 yards beyond Pensione Sorriso, at the second Corniglia sign, follow the lane left.
Best Budget Option on the Cinque Terre
Manarola, one of the five Cinque Terre towns, has the area's only hostel — and it's excellent.
Ostello 5-Terre, Manarola's modern and pleasant hostel, stands like a Monopoly hotel above the church square and offers 48 beds in four- to six-bed rooms. It's smart to reserve at least a week in advance in high season. You book with your credit-card number online; if you cancel with fewer than three days' notice, you'll be charged for one night. This is not a party hostel — quiet is greatly appreciated (May–Sept dorm beds-€23, Qb-€96; off-season dorm beds-€18, Qb-€80; closed Dec–Feb, not co-ed except for couples and families, optional €4.50 breakfast and €5–6 pasta; in summer, office closed 13:00–17:00, rooms closed 10:00–17:00, 1:00 curfew; during off-season, office and rooms closed until 16:00, curfew at 24:00; open to all ages, laundry, safes, phone cards, Internet access, book exchange, elevator, great roof terrace and sunset views, Via B. Riccobaldi 21, tel. 0187-920-215, fax 0187-920-218, www.hostel5terre.com, info@hostel5terre.com, well-managed by Nicola). They rent dorm rooms as doubles for €60.
38. Hill Towns of Central Italy
Sleeping in Siena
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
Finding a room in Siena is tough during Easter (March 23 in 2008) or the Palio (July 2 and August 16). Call ahead any time of year, as all the guidebooks list Siena's few budget places.
Sleeping near Il Campo
Each of these listings is forgettable but inexpensive, and just a horse wreck away from one of Italy's most wonderful civic spaces.
Albergo Tre Donzelle is a fine budget value with 20 plain, institutional, and well-worn rooms. Don't hang out here...think of Il Campo, a block away, as your terrace (S-€38, D-€49, Db-€60, T-€70, Tb-€85; with your back to the tower, leave Il Campo to the right at 2:00, Via Donzelle 5; tel. 0577-280-358, fax 0577-223-933, tredonzelle@hotmail.it).
Piccolo Hotel Etruria has 20 decent air-conditioned rooms but not much soul. The hotel is a bit overpriced though well-located and sleepable (S-€48, Sb-€53, Db-€86, Tb-€114, Qb-€142, optional breakfast-€5, curfew at 1:00, next to Albergo Tre Donzelle at Via Donzelle 1–3, tel. 0577-288-088, fax 0577-288-461, www.hoteletruria.com, info@hoteletruria.com, Fattorini family).
Locanda Garibaldi is a modest, very Sienese place. Gentle Marcello rents seven pleasant rooms up a funky, artsy staircase (Db-€78, Tb-€100, family deals, cash only, takes reservations only a week in advance, half a block downhill off the square at Via Giovanni Dupre 18, tel. 0577-284-204, Marcello and Sonia speak very little English).
Hotel Cannon d'Oro, a few blocks up Via Banchi di Sopra, has 30 spacious and comfortable rooms, but is a bit noisy and group-friendly (Sb-€71, Db-€90, Tb-€115, Qb-€136, these discounted prices good with current Rick Steves' Italy book through 2008, family deals, includes breakfast, Via Montanini 28, tel. 0577-44-321, fax 0577-280-868, www.cannondoro.com, info@cannondoro.com, Maurizio). This is just a couple of blocks from the bus station.
Best Budget Options in Siena
The first two hotels are within a 10-minute walk northeast of Il Campo. Albergo Bernini and Alma Domus, which enjoy views of the old town and cathedral, are about the best values in town. The hostel is are well-served by city buses, but is less convenient.
Alma Domus is ideal — unless nuns make you nervous, you need a double bed, or you plan on staying out past the 23:30 curfew (no mercy given). This hotel (it's not a convent) is run with firm but angelic smiles by non-English-speaking sisters who offer 43 clean, quiet, little rooms for a steal and save the best views for foreigners. Bright lamps, quaint balconies, fine views, grand public rooms, top security, and a pleasant atmosphere make this a great value. The checkout time is strictly 10:00, but they will store your luggage in their secure courtyard (Sb-€42, Db-€65, Tb-€80, Qb-€95, cash only, ask for view room (con vista), central air-con, elevator; from San Domenico, walk downhill with the church on your right toward the view, turn left down Via Camporegio, make a U-turn at the little chapel down the brick steps to Via Camporegio 37; tel. 0577-44-177, fax 0577-47-601).
Albergo Bernini makes you part of a Sienese family in a modest, clean home with nine fine rooms. Friendly Nadia and Mauro and son Alessandro (who speaks English) welcome you to their spectacular view terrace for breakfast and picnic lunches and dinners (Sb-€78, D-€62, Db-€82, less in winter, breakfast-€7, cash only, non-smoking, midnight curfew, on the main Il Campo–San Domenico drag at Via Sapienza 15, tel. & fax 0577-289-047, www.albergobernini.com, hbernin@tin.it). When booked up, they recommend their charming, bigger, but more expensive apartments (Db-€100, non-smoking, no curfew, located just a few steps downhill from Albergo).
Siena's Guidoriccio Youth Hostel has 100 cheap beds and welcomes anyone, but is outside the center (€14 beds in doubles, triples, and dorms with sheets, D-€28, cash only, €2 breakfast, lock-out 9:30–14:00, bus #10 or #77 from train station or bus #10 or #15 from Piazza Gramsci — about 20 min, Via Fiorentina 89 in Stellino neighborhood, tel. 0577-52-212, fax 0577-50-277, siena@ostellionline.org).
Sleeping in Assisi
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
Assisi accommodates large numbers of pilgrims on religious holidays. Finding a room at any other time should be easy. Few hotels are air-conditioned. Locals suggest that you keep your windows closed in the middle of the day so that your room can be as cool as possible in the evening.
Hotel Umbra, a quiet villa in the middle of town, has 25 rooms with great views and fine accommodations (Sb-€75, Db-€123, Tb-€155, 10 percent cash discount for two or more nights with current Rick Steves' Italy book in 2008, air-con, peaceful garden and view sun terrace, most rooms have views, good restaurant, dinner only, closed Nov–mid-March, just off Piazza del Comune under the arch at Via degli Archi 6, tel. 075-812-240, fax 075-813-653, www.hotelumbra.it, info@hotelumbra.it, family Laudenzi).
Hotel Ideale, on the top edge of town overlooking the valley, offers 12 airy, modern rooms (all with view, 10 with balconies), a tranquil garden setting, and free parking (Sb-€60, Db-€95, prices good with current Rick Steves' Italy book through 2008, may be cheaper off-season, air-con, confirm your arrival time especially if arriving after 17:00, Piazza Matteotti 1, tel. 075-813-570, fax 075-813-020, www.hotelideale.it, info@hotelideale.it, friendly sisters Lara and Ilaria). This hotel, close to the bus stop (and parking lot) at Piazza Matteotti at the top end of town, is easy to reach by public transportation.
Hotel Belvedere, a great value, is a modern building with 16 big, spacious rooms — nine come with sweeping views (Sb-€45, Db-€65, breakfast-€5, elevator, large communal view terrace, 2 blocks past Basilica of St. Clare at Via Borgo Aretino 13, tel. 075-812-460, fax 075-816-812, www.assisihotelbelvedere.it, info@assisihotelbelvedere.it, run by Enrico and Mary from New Jersey).
Hotel Sole, well-located with 35 rooms in a 15th-century building, is tired and forgettable but works in a pinch (Sb-€45, Db-€65, Tb-€85, breakfast-€5, easy parking, Corso Mazzini 35, 100 yards before Basilica of St. Clare, tel. 075-812-373, fax 075-813-706, www.assisihotelsole.com, info@assisihotelsole.com). Half of its rooms are in a newer annex across the street (elevator in annex).
Best Budget Options in Assisi
Hotel La Rocca, on the peaceful top end of town, has 35 solid and modern rooms in a medieval shell (Sb-€40, Db-€50, Tb-€70, breakfast-€5, parking-€6, sunny rooftop terrace, a 3-min walk from Piazza Matteotti at Via Porta Perlici 27, tel. & fax 075-812-284, www.hotelarocca.it, info@hotelarocca.it).
Hotel San Rufino offers a great locale, solid stone quality, and 11 comfortable rooms (Sb-€46, Db-€55, Tb-€68, breakfast-€5; from Cathedral of San Rufino, follow sign to Via Porta Perlici 7; tel. & fax 075-812-803, www.hotelsanrufino.it, info@hotelsanrufino.it). Their nine-room annex, Albergo Il Duomo (listed below), saves you about €10 a night with no loss in comfort.
Albergo Il Duomo is tidy and tranquillo, with nine rooms on a stair-stepped lane one block up from San Rufino. Check in at Hotel San Rufino (Sb-€35, Db-€46, breakfast-€5, Vicolo San Lorenzo 2, tel. & fax 075-812-742, www.hotelsanrufino.it, info@hotelsanrufino.it).
Camere Annalisa Martini is a cheery home swimming in vines, roses, and cats in the town's medieval core. Annalisa enthusiastically accommodates her guests with a picnic garden, a washing machine (€7 per small load, including drying and ironing), a communal refrigerator, and six homey rooms (S-€25, Sb-€28, D-€38, Db-€42, Tb-€58, Qb-€68, cash only, 3 rooms share 2 bathrooms, no breakfast; 1 block from Piazza del Comune, go downhill toward basilica, turn left on Via San Gregorio to #6; tel. & fax 075-813-536, cameremartini@libero.it, Mama Martini doesn't speak English, but Annalisa does).
Hostel: Francis probably would have bunked with the peasants in Assisi's Ostello della Pace (€15 beds in 4- to 8-bed rooms, dinner-€9.50, laundry service, lockout 9:30–16:00, 23:30 curfew; get off bus at Piazza Unità d'Italia, then take 10-min walk to Via di Valecchie 177; tel. & fax 075-816-767, www.assisihostel.com, assisi.hostel@tiscalinet.it).
Sleeping in Civita and Bagnoregio
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
When you leave the tourist crush, life as a traveler in Italy becomes easy and prices tumble. Finding a room is easy in small-town Italy.
Civita B&B, run by Franco Sala (who also owns Trattoria Antico Forno and the only dog in Civita — Birillo), has three fine little rooms, each overlooking Civita's main square (D-€62, Db-€68, T-€78, includes continental breakfast, €17 more per person for optional half-pension, Piazza del Duomo Vecchio, tel. 0761-760-016, mobile 347-611-5426, www.civitadibagnoregio.it, fsala@pelagus.it).
Romantica Pucci B&B is a haven for city-weary travelers. Its five spacious rooms are indeed romantic, with canopied beds and flowing veils. Both homey and elegant, it's like sleeping at Katharine Hepburn's place. Pucci and Lamberto take special care of their guests (Db-€80, includes breakfast; free parking, attached restaurant is popular with guests — go for the "Trust Pucci" €15–20 special family-style dinner, Piazza Cavour 1, tel. 0761-792-121, www.hotelromanticapucci.it, hotelromanticapucci@libero.it). It's just above the parking lot you see when you arrive in Bagnoregio — look for a sign marking its private parking place — and it's half a block before the town's main square, facing the main drag.
39. North Italy Choices: Milan, Lakes, or Mountains
Sleeping in Milan
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
I've tried to minimize traffic-noise problems in my listings. All are within a few minutes' walk of Milan's subway system. With Milan's fine Metro, you can get anywhere in town in a flash. Anytime in March, April, September, and October, the city can be completely jammed by conventions, and hotel prices jump way up. I've listed high-season prices, but not convention-gouging prices. (For the convention schedule, see www.fieramilano.it.) Summer is usually wide-open and prices are discounted, though many hotels close in August for vacation. Hotels cater more to business travelers than to tourists, so Fridays and Saturdays are generally cheaper and available.
Hotel Star is a comfortable, modern 30-room place (Sb-€140, Db-€185, prices drop about €40 outside convention times, interior rooms are quieter, closed Aug, air-con, fridge, Via dei Bossi 5, tel. 02-801-501, fax 02-861-787, www.hotelstar.it, reception@hotelstar.it).
Antica Locanda dei Mercanti feels like a library in heaven, well-located and seriously quiet (no TVs, lots of books). It lacks public spaces and a breakfast area but comes with fresh flowers in each of its 14 rooms (Db-€163, Db with air-con and garden terrace-€300, optional €15 breakfast served in room, fans, elevator, no very young children, Via San Tomaso 6, Metro: Cordusio; tel. 02-805-4080, fax 02-805-4090, www.locanda.it, locanda@locanda.it).
Best Budget Options in Milan
Hotel Sabotino is a quirky, economical, grandmotherly place with 15 basic wood-paneled rooms sharing a long sunny balcony (S-€40, Sb-€75, D-€55, Db-€95, Db apartment-€95, elevator, Viale Sabotino 16, on sixth floor, Metro: Porta Romana, tel. 02-5830-8797, fax 02-5831-0400, www.hotelsabotino.com, info@hotelsabotino.com, Dea and Chiocco the poodle greet guests).
"The Best" Hotel, a five-minute walk from the station, rents 28 simple rooms and offers a peaceful garden terrace in the middle of the bustling city. The staff is hardworking and the price is great, making this a fine value (Sb-€50–60, Db-€65–85, air-con Jun–Aug only, Via B. Marcello 83, tel. 02-2940-4757, fax 02-201-966, www.thebesthotel.it, info@thebesthotel.it, helpful, friendly Filippo and Riccardo). From Via Scarlatti, turn right onto Via B. Marcello and follow it a half-block down.
Hotel Valley is homey, small (just 11 rooms), ordinary, and inexpensive (Ss-€35, Sb-€40, Ds-€50, Db-€60, Tb-€80, free Internet access, Via Soperga 19, tel. & fax 02-6698-7252, www.hotelvalley.it, info@hotelvalley.it, Rocco). It's three long blocks from the station: Exit station to the left, then turn left onto Via Lepetit, which becomes Via Soperga.
Ostello la Cordata, a good choice, has some singles and doubles (€18 for beds in 6-, 8-, and 16-bed dorms; or hotel-type rooms on the second floor — Sb-€40, Db-€70, Tb-€90; reserve ahead, check in 14:00–22:00, free Internet access, Via Burigozzo 11, Metro: Missori — on the yellow line, tel. 02-583-14675, fax 02-5830-3598, www.ostellimilano.it — click on "Ostello via Burigozzo," ostello@lacordata.it).
Lake Como: Sleeping in Varenna
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
Reservations are tight in August, snug in July, and wide open most of the rest of the year. Many places close in winter. All places listed are family-run and have lakeview rooms. If you're expecting friendliness, especially during peak season, you'll likely be disappointed. Enjoy the view. View rooms are given (sometimes for no extra cost) to those who telephone for reservations and request a "camera con vista." High-season prices are listed here; prices get soft off-season (Nov–April).
Albergo Milano, located right in the old town, is graciously run by Egidio and his Swiss wife, Bettina. Fusing the best of Italy with the best of Switzerland, this well-run, romantic hotel has eight comfortable rooms with extravagant views, balconies, or big terraces (Sb-€115, Db-€150, €5 extra for view terrace, €5/day cash discount, no elevator; from the station, take main road to town and turn right at steep alley where sidewalk and guardrail break; Via XX Settembre 35; tel. 0341-830-298, fax 0341-830-061, www.varenna.net, hotelmilano@varenna.net). This place whispers luna di miele — honeymoon (see website for 3-night honeymoon deal). Nearby are two equally elegant and comfortable annexes, all a great value and good for families, some with lakeside views and living rooms or kitchenettes (Db-€120–150). For €27 per person, enjoy Egidio's culinary creations for dinner
Hotel Olivedo, facing the ferry dock, is a romantic, Old World hotel with antique furniture and classy parquet (Venetian pavimento) floors. Most of the rooms have tiny, glorious lakeview balconies. It's a fine place to practice the art of la dolce far niente and watch the children, boats, and sun come and go. Brusque, hardworking manager Laura doesn't smile a lot, and runs a very tight ship (prices vary with season and views: S-€65, Db-€140, half-pension required May–mid-Oct — see below, cash only, no elevator, air-con, closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec, prefers reservations by phone, tel. & fax 0341-830-115, www.olivedo.it, info@olivedo.it). Laura's excellent dinner (€22 per person, required for guests May–mid-Oct) adds €44 to the price of double room per day and doesn't include drinks.
Villa Cipressi is a sprawling, centuries-old lakeside mansion with 32 warmly outfitted, modern rooms. It sits in a huge, quiet, terraced garden that non-guests pay to see (Sb-€110, non-view Db-€135, view Db-€155, extra cot-€25, these prices promised with current Rick Steves' Italy book in 2008, rooms without views face the street and are noisier, elevator, no air-con, Internet in lobby, Jacuzzi rental, often busy with wedding parties, garden access, mountain bike rental for guests, Via IV Novembre 18, tel. 0341-830-113, fax 0341-830-401, www.hotelvillacipressi.it, info@hotelvillacipressi.it, Davide).
Eremo Gaudio stands in isolation halfway up the hill, with a commanding lake view high above Varenna. Once an orphanage, it became a hermitage run by the Catholic Church, and then — since 2000 — a modern hotel accessed by a funky private funicular. Perfect for monks with champagne tastes, it's peaceful, with awe-inspiring view balconies and a breakfast terrace. Thirteen bright, plain-but-comfy rooms perch up in the main building, and 12 less-dramatic but recently updated rooms huddle below at the foot of the funicular (open March–Oct only, upper rooms: Sb-€95, Db-€110, Db with balcony-€125; lower rooms: Db-€100–115; 7 percent discount with cash and 3-night stay; all rooms have lake views, air-con, taxi from station recommended — about €10, quarter-mile south of Varenna's main square at Via Roma 11, tel. 0341-815-301, fax 0341-815-314, www.eremogaudio.it, eremogaudio@yahoo.it). Suppers are served on the upper terrace, weather permitting.
Best Budget Options in Varenna
Albergo Beretta, on the main road a block below the station, has 10 pleasant rooms, several with balconies (and street noise). Second-floor rooms are quietest. This place, above the locals' coffee shop which doubles as the reception, feels homey, lacks any lakeside glamour, and sometimes smells smoky (D-€58, Db-€68, extra bed-€12, breakfast-€6, no elevator, Via per Esino 1, tel. & fax 0341-830-132, www.hotelberetta.it, hotelberetta@iol.it, Signora Tosca doesn't speak English, but Laura and daughter Giulia do). This place reportedly tends to overbook — it's essential to reconfirm your reservation.
Villa Elena, a grandmotherly, low-energy place on the main square, offers the best budget beds in town. English-speaking Signora Vitali, who lives downstairs, rents her four antique-filled rooms at the same price — room #1 has a shabby bathroom and view terrace, while the others don't even have sinks. Twin beds only — not for romantics (D-€45 with or without bath, cash only, no breakfast, it's the vine-covered facade at Piazza San Giorgio 9 near Via San Giovanni, tel. 0341-830-575).
Dolomites: Sleeping in Castelrotto
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
The ideal home base for exploring the Alpe di Siusi, Castelrotto (town population: 2,000; district population: 6,000, altitude 1,060 meters, or 3,475 feet) has more village character than any other town I know of in the region. Friday morning is the farmers' market (June–Oct) and a clothing market fills the town square most Thursday mornings.
Alla Torre (in German, Gasthof zum Turm) is comfortable, clean, and alpine-traditional, with great beds and modern bathrooms (small Db-€64–96, big Db-€80–125 depending on season — price peaks in Aug, Tb-€94–165, includes breakfast, €4 extra for 1-night stays, closed April and Nov, elevator, behind TI at Kofelgasse 8, tel. 0471-706-349, fax 0471-707-268, www.zumturm.com, info@zumturm.com, Gabi and Günther).
Hotel al Lupo (in German, zum Wolf) is pure Tirolean, with all the comforts in 23 neat-as-a-pin rooms, most with balconies (Sb-€35–50, Db-€56–85, prices vary with season and view, includes buffet breakfast, non-smoking rooms, elevator, coin-op laundry, closed April–mid-May and Nov–mid-Dec, a block below main square at Wolkensteinstrasse 5, tel. 0471-706-332, fax 0471-707-030, www.hotelwolf.it, info@hotelwolf.it, Arno).
Hotel Cavallino d'Oro (in German, Goldenes Rössl), on the main square, has plenty of Tirolean character and plush, welcoming public rooms. Run by friendly and helpful Stefan and Susanne, the entire place is dappled with artistic woodsy touches and historic photos. If you love antiques by candlelight, this 650-year-old hotel is the best in town (Sb-€45–65, Db-€85–110 depending on season, discount for 4-night stay, no elevator, Krausplatz 1, tel. 0471-706-337, fax 0471-707-172, www.cavallino.it, cavallino@cavallino.it). Stefan converted his wine cellar into a spa and sauna (free and private for guests, great after a hike, just book an hour), complete with heated tile seats, solarium (for tanning), and tropical plants.
Residence Garni Trocker is run by the Trocker family (around here, every other family is a Trocker family), who rent 10 great rooms in a place that's bomb-shelter solid yet warm-wood cozy. Their compound is beautifully laid out with a café/bar, garden, and top-notch plumbing (Sb-€40, Db-€54–86 depending on season, Fostlweg 3, tel. 0471-705-200, fax 0471-707-427, www.residencetrocker.com, garni@residencetrocker.com). Sunday is the family's day of rest; the hotel is open, but there's no service.
Best Budget Options in Castelrotto
Haus Harderer, below Hotel Kastelruth (take the middle lane where it forks), rents a single plush, woody apartment for up to four (Db-€50, Tb-€60, no breakfast, cash only, 2-night minimum stay in summer, lots of stairs, view balcony, Plattenstrasse 20, tel. 0471-706-702, harderer@gmx.net, run by Oswald, Heinz, Ida, and Maunz the cat).
Haus Trocker, on the edge of town, is a modern home where Frau Trocker, who doesn't speak English, rents two delightful rooms that share one WC (D-€50, from the bus station, walk away from the church spire, following steps past Hotel Kastel Seiseralm to Fostlweg 6, tel. 0471-707-087). Son Roland speaks English.
Tirler Hof, the storybook Jaider family farm, has 40 cows, one friendly Hund (dog), four Old World–comfy guest rooms, and a great mountain view (D-€42, Db-€45, discount for stays longer than 1 night, includes breakfast, cash only, open year-round, most practical for drivers, it's the first farm outside of town, 100 yards past the leaving-town sign on the right on road to San Michele, Paniderstrasse 44; tel. & fax 0471-706-017, Paola). The ground-floor double has a private bath. The top-floor rooms share a bathroom and a great balcony. Take a stroll before breakfast.
40. Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and a Steamy Volcano
Sleeping in Sorrento
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
Sorrento offers the whole range of rooms. Hotels often charge the same for a room whether it has a view, balcony, or neither. At hotels that offer sea views, ask for a room "con balcone, con vista sul mare" (with a balcony, with a sea view). "Tranquillo" is taken as a request for a quieter room off the street. While many hotels close for the winter, you should have no trouble finding a room any time outside of August, when the place is jammed and many hotel prices go way up. Outside of summer, prices can be soft — it doesn't hurt to ask for a discount (always show your Rick Steves book). Splurge for a hotel with air-conditioning if you wilt in the heat, but be aware that it often costs extra.
Grand Hotel Ambasciatori is a sumptuous four-star hotel with 100 rooms, a cliffside setting, a sprawling garden, and a pool. This is Humphrey Bogart land, with plush public spaces, a relaxing stay-a-while ambience, and a free elevator to its "private beach" — actually a sundeck built out over the water (viewless Db-€230, seaview Db-€330, closed Jan–March, air-con, balconies, parking, Via Califano 18, tel. 081-878-2025, fax 081-807-1021, www.ambasciatorisorrento.com, ambasciatori@manniellohotels.com).
Hotel La Meridiana Sorrento, a fine three-star place with everything but character, offers business-class public spaces and 45 soulless rooms (Db-€140, Tb-€190, required Aug half-pension at Db-€200 and Tb-€280, prices soft when slow, big rooftop terrace with grand views, next door to public Lemon Grove Garden, Via Rota 1, tel. 081-807-3535, fax 081-807-3484, www.lameridianasorrento.com, info@lameridianasorrento.com).
Hotel del Corso, a funky, Old World, three-star hotel, has 26 decent rooms. While it's central, family-run, and comfortable, the staff can be curt (Db-€130, Tb-€160, Qb-€180, ask for €10/day Rick Steves discount and for room off busy street when you book, bottom-floor rooms are like new, air-con, rooftop sun terrace, near Piazza Tasso at Corso Italia 134, tel. 081-807-1016, tel. & fax 081-807-3157, www.hoteldelcorso.com, info@hoteldelcorso.com).
Best Budget Options in Sorrento
Casa Astarita B&B is a shining gem in the middle of town, with a crazy-quilt tiled entryway. You'll find six bright, tranquil, air-conditioned rooms (three with little balconies) and a fully stocked communal fridge and sideboard for help-yourself breakfasts (Db-€95–105, Tb-€130, prices promised with current Rick Steves' Italy book in 2008, double-paned windows, elevator, Internet in rustic-yet-elegant common room, just past Ristorante Parrucchiano as you're coming from the station on Corso Italia at #67, tel. 081-877-4906, fax 081-807-1146, www.casastarita.com, info@casastarita.com). While there's no reception, it's easy to arrange a check-in meeting with Annamaria or Rita.
Residenza Maresca is a humble two-building, 12-room sideline for the Pizzeria Giardiniello, which serves food at the reception. Eight of the 12 large, modern rooms are at the end of Corso Italia (at #5). Witty owner Franco may struggle with his English and be tardy when he meets you for check-in, but the price can't be beat (Db-€65, Tb-€90, cash only, air-con, mini-fridge, Via Accademia 7–9, tel. 081-878-4616, casamarescaresidence@libero.it).
Ulisse Deluxe Hostel, more of an elegant four-star hotel than a hostel, has 56 new, marble-tiled rooms with huge private bathrooms. Reserve a room here before the management regains their sanity (€18–35 per person in 2- to 4-bed rooms, cash only, spa and pool use extra, membership not required, near Marina Grande at Via del Mare 22, tel. 081-877-4753, fax 081-877-4093, www.ulissedeluxe.com, info@ulissedeluxe.com).
41. Sassy, Spicy Sicily
Sleeping in Sicily
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 39)
In Palermo
Grande Albergo Sole (splurge, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 291, tel. 091-604-1111, www.ghshotels.it).
Hotel Moderno (budget, Via Roma 276, tel. 091-588-683, www.hotelmodernopa.com).
In Cefalù
Hotel Riva del Sole (Via Lungomare 25, tel. 092-142-1230, www.rivadelsole.com).
In Taormina
Hotel Continental (Via Dionisio 2a, tel. 094-223-805, www.continentaltaormina.com).
Updated for 2008. For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Italy and Rick Steves' Florence & Tuscany guidebooks.