Graffiti Wall: Traveling in Europe after the Icelandic Eruption

Traveling in Europe after the Icelandic Eruption

With thousands of trips being stalled (or extended) and the media's penchant for making things a bit more sensational than reality, we'd like to collect reports from Europe on what it's like to be traveling during this Icelandic volcano ash event. Apart from the frustrations in getting there or home, what's it like in Europe? Are you seeing ripple effects from the grounding of so many flights? How is the situation affecting your on-the-ground travel experience (surface transportation, hotel availability, etc.)? Do you have any stories of resourcefulness or coping you can share?

Update on Iberia Airlines cancelled flights refund policy
Received the below email from Iberia Airlines after filing a complaint with their customer service organization (only a portion is provided since the entier message would not fit in the text box for this forum). ************* Madrid, 01 de June de 2010. ...If you decided not to fly with us and obtained a full or partial refund on your ticket or part of it, we are not liable for any other incidental cost(s) you may have incurred, in accordance with the rules contained in the aforementioned Regulations. ... *************

I called Vayama up and forward the entire email from Iberia to Vayama.

A couple of hours later Vayama called me and indicated that Iberia Airlines will now provided a refund of $35.

Not to happy with either Iberia or Vayama as a result of how much of a hassle it was to get this resolved.

Edwin
Edwin
Arlington, VA USA 06/02/2010

british air strike etc
just came back from three weeks in europe. Had no trouble with ash delays. We departed US after initial shut-downs and returned May 26. We were on British Airways and our original flight home was cancelled but we were able to easily rebook on another flight for same day and even got a free upgrade. They are doing everything they can to accommodate people. We had such a marvelous time, already planning my next trip.
Kathleen
Snohomish , Wa USA 05/30/2010

Iberia Airlines cancelled flights policy
May 3rd, Amsterdam Airport - Iberia employee indicated a refund was due to cancelled MAD-BRU flight on April 18th but request had to be made thru travel agent.

Travel agent notifed me May 30th - "...We sent your refund request to the airline as the flights MAD-BRU was xxld due to volcanice eruption, and we have received a response. We regret to inform you that the airline has denied a refund. ..."

Just wanted to warn any potential customers of the Iberia policy on cancelled flights.
Edwin
Arlington, VA USA 05/30/2010

Future Travels...
Planning on traveling in the fall (september/october) and beginning my trip in Ireland then going onto England. I am looking at booking my flight and buying my Euro Rail Pass now and want to know if this is a wise decision?
Sam
Pittsburgh, PA USA 05/29/2010

Plane cancelations during volcano
We were stranded in Paris for an extra day on April 19 on our way to Venice. Not such a bad place to be stranded but we were paying for our apartment on the other end. Saved ourselves a lot of grief by buying two train tickets on April 17, "just in case". Even then the earliest we could get out of Paris was April 20. Can anyone provide feedback as to how the various airlines are responding to refunds for canceled flights? Ours was Easyjet.
Lois Bach
San Diego, CA USA 05/21/2010

Travel after the Icelandic Eruption
Our recent flight from Paris to Houston was about five hours late in departing, and took about three hours longer to get there. However, we took a much lower altitude flight, it seemed to us, and flew over Scotland, Ireland, Iceland, Greenland & Labrador. The snowfields of Greenland, the rugged coastlines and the blue & white mosiacs of the icy ocean were all very interesting to see - especially on a clear day and from a lower altitude.
Kyle & Jan Dameron
Tulsa, OK USA 05/19/2010

Geology and History
Vulcanology:

The last time this particular volcano erupted, the historical records show it belched ash for 2 years before quieting down. Like it or not, we had better learn to deal with it, for as long as lasts.
Michael Chevalier
New Hope, PA USA 05/18/2010

Volcano
Just got home from two weeks in Ireland. We got there one day after airport closure and left 6 hours before another closure. We had a blast while we were there. The Euro is at rock bottom and everyone is so glad to have you. Treat you like royalty. The news makes it worse than it is. The airlines are really getting it together to only close if absolutely necessary. I wouldn't cancel my plans this is an awsome time to visit Europe, you will get there and also get home. It isn't as bad as the news makes it sound. They actually ignore it over there until something really happens and then you get plenty of notice.
Judy
Grass Vally, CA USA 05/18/2010

TRAVEL: She Loves Me, She loves me not
It's 17 May. Do you know where your airplane is?

British Airways has been granted an injunction to prevent a flight attendant strike (temporarily). Ash restrictions have been lifted (for the moment and in only some places).

If you are pining for the British Isles (you are obviously not British), then check the Londontimes.com frequently.

The news on ash and strikes may or may not be good - but it still keeps a stiff upper lip.

That's why I love UK - and the people who populate that toughened place.
Bill Kester
Pendleton, SC USA 05/17/2010

Ash and the Summer of My Discontent
Trying to fly to Ireland, England, Scotland recently - or even use those countries as connections - is trying my patience. Wandering ash clouds plus threatened sporadic BA strikes (18 May and intermittently thereafter for 23 days) are challenging my planning skills. There is a website

--- metoffice.gov.uk/weather (then search ash) which is now forecasting ash movement five days ahead. But "winging" expensive trips for which "volcanic ash interruption" insurance is excluded is a concern.
b
Pendleton, SC USA 05/16/2010

The internet
Was in London when the Volcano first erupted. Having my Apple I-touch with me was a real planning saver. Used the I -Rail site to check on train times/AP and BBC reader to get up date information. In addition, Lonely Planet offered free dowloads of their Apps for London and Amsterdam. Having 24 hour access to the internet is a real time saver.
Karen Kallas
Schaumburg, Il USA 05/16/2010

APPRECIATION
I appreciate the time and effort of those who wrote to this site as of May 14, 2010. The posts reinforce my own insights and decisions about my own travel this summer.
Bill
Pendleton, SC USA 05/14/2010

Returning to Rome
We just returned from a great 17 day best of Italy tour. On Friday we had a walking tour of Rome with our guide. We stopped at the Trevi fountain and did what millions of other tourists have done. Standing with our back to the fountain and tossed a coin into the fountain. Part of the legend of this fountain said that one coin tossed means you will return to Rome. On Sunday we were scheduled to fly out of Rome. The flight was canceled due to the volcano activity. We did in fact return to Rome that day and stayed another night at the same hotel where the last night of the tour stayed. The legend came true, much sooner than expected. We were able to book a flight out the next day and with some other minor delays and a long flight over Iceland and Greenland made it home safely.
Ken
Lakewood, CO USA 05/13/2010

Delays Through Heathrow
At most of the hotels we stayed in, they told us the start of tourist "season" had been delayed for about 2 weeks b/c of the initial eruption. We had no trouble at all getting good deals on rooms. Hotels were happy to have the business b/c most had seen cancellations due to the volcano.

We were lucky to dodge the inital eruption (left for Heathrow the day after it opened again) and had a 2 hour delay on the return trip at Heathrow (only 3 "flight channels" were open in Britain) plus the mega-long 11 hour 58 minute flight over Greenland down through uninhabitied Canada.

My advice to anyone planning a trip - just be aware the situation could change at any time and there does exist a possiblity of getting "stuck" for a few extra days. Make sure you have the ability to contact your airline either by cell phone or European calling card. I'm thinking that extra long flight over Greenland is around to stay too......
Kellye
Dallas, TX USA 05/13/2010

So much for Italy
We were supposed to go to central Italy after a teaching gig in Lebanon...and got to Beirut 3 days late and after 2 different itineraries due to the volcano. But we stayed on for two days in Jordan! Rented a car and went on an adventure: the Baptismal site at Bethany across the river from the West Bank and Israel (there's a peace agreement), the Dead Sea, the King's Hwy through the desert sand dunes, fabulous Petra and back by way of the Desert Hwy to Madaba, the Mosaic City. At least it was something that made missing Italy worth the trouble.
Deb Smith
Albany, NY USA 05/12/2010

Routed north of Iceland
My daughter and I had an extended flight from Paris to Atlanta on 5/10/10. Our flight was routed to the north of Iceland to avoid the ash, making for an 11 hour trip, and missing our connecting flight to Detroit. Delta was nice enough to provide a hotel voucher for the airport Marriott. Gorgeous views of Iceland topography out of the port side windows of the plane - get your cameras out.
Dan
Northville, MI USA 05/11/2010

Volcano problems
I left Milan Sunady May 9th after a wonderful Village Italy tour. We were unaware that the airport had been closed all of Sat and SUnday monring. I was lucky to be on a direct flight to NY on American. After a delay of 6 hours, I was home....not so bad. My trip mates had cancelled flights going to Frankfurt and Paris, so I think the suggestion of a direct flight to the US is a good one instead of connecting inside Europe. In the end, I was happy to have been able to spend the 2 weeks in Italy. the sun finally shone on the day in Cinque Terre...bliss
Mary
Fort Worth, TX USA 05/11/2010

Volcano Delay
Our trip to England and Ireland was postponed one week. We were to leave on the 16th and that morning was able to reschedule for the 23rd. Delta was good about just switching the flight and we found many deals once we got there because none of the hotels were full. We got out one day before they closed the airspace again. We were fortunate and it turned out lucky for us.
Constance
Farmington Hills, MI USA 05/11/2010

got stuck in Dublin
I was traveling alone and got "stuck" in wonderful Dublin. While it was pretty stressful until my husband (in USA) managed to call Delta (I never ever heard from them - even by e-mail!) and got me rebooked. Five extra nights in a wonderful city with wonderful people. Everyone was great. I stayed at the Mespil Hotel (mentioned in Rick's guidebook) and they were really terrific. I went to the tourist bureau and got great ideas about additional things to do near Dublin (I didn't dare be away from Dublin in case I got an earlier flight than the rebooked one). I went to Howth (great fishing village) Kildare and Kilkenny. All easily accessible via public transportation. This in addition to the day tours I had planned for my five-day trip (original length). Some tourists from big tours in my hotel were appalling ignorant about all things Europe - like - what ccards would work! I felt pretty able to cope, but it would have been hard w/o adequate funds and a bit of adventure in your nature!
Laura
williamstown, ma USA 05/10/2010

Rick in St. Mark's Square
We too were "stuck in Venice", yeah, not so bad. There were not more than 50-60 people in drizzly St. Mark's Sq one night, oh, and Rick Steves! He was walking alone listening to his St. Mark's audio tour (always working)! We discussed the price of the hotel we were staying in and he told us to look in his book and call a few as they were much lower in price. We did just that and saved $200/nt for the next 5 nts! Thanks Rick!
Terry
Torrance, CA USA 05/07/2010

Icelandic Volcano Eruption
My wife and I were landing in AMS from MSP on the morning of 04/15. We were to connect on KLM to Leeds, England. When we landed, the flights to England were being cancelled. We found a hotel (quickly). We spent 5 days in AMS (very delightful). The Dutch people were fantastic!We finally went to England on ferry from Rotterdam to Hull and then a train to Leeds.
Lou Budler
Villa Hills, Ky USA 05/03/2010

Volcanic news from Madrid
We were in Madrid when we got word of the Volcano. Being on vacation we were not tuning in to any news, so it was the 19th before we heard about it (about 4 days after the event). Was the ash the cause of the rain in Spain - or was it just April? We spent a few days monitoring KLM on the computer, but by the time our flight back to Calgary via Amsterdam left on the 23rd things were back to a pretty much normal schedule. We were delayed about an hour in Amsterdam. No visible signs of ash even when the volcano was still actively spewing.
Ruth Scott
Red Deer, Alberta Canada 04/25/2010

Volcano event
We were in Umbria when we received word of the volcanic eruption. We drove to Siena and Bologna with no problem except many, many trucks on the road (a side-effect of no air transport?) We had no trouble getting train reservations to Innsbruck and Garmisch where we had no trouble renting another car. We are spending this week on the "romantic road". Some of the b&b's have been emailing us to see if we are indeed still coming. They seem to be receiving lots of cancellations. Italy, Austria and Germany are beautiful this time of year, and we are glad to be here!
Pat
Portland, OR USA 04/24/2010

flying from France to Seattle
I just flew from Paris CDG to Seattle WA. In order to avoid the ash cloud the eight hour trip was extended to 13 hours. Bring snacks!
R.Egging
Mount Vernon, WA USA 04/24/2010

Stuck in Prague...
...but at least we were at the Guest House Lida. We had planned to return to the US on the 16th but were foiled by the ash cloud. Prague was both a nice city to be stuck in, and a good airport to be near. The cost of the additional days was less that it would have been in many other European cities. Also, the airport was quieter than the large hubs. We did make it out on the 21st, on the PRG-JFK flight, but it was close. We spent several hours each day on the house computer researching options and tracking the ash cloud, but we made sure to get out with our teenage daughters and see the sights each day. As bad as it was to be stuck there with an uncertain return date, I cannot tell you how nice it was to be in the Lida - they were supportive and informative and we really did feel like we had a second home in Prague. It was just the fear that it might become our 'permanent' home. :-)
Lydell Sullenbarger
Petersburg, KY USA 04/23/2010

Venice canceled or postponed
My trip to Venice was canceled because KLM was not flying from the US on April 19th. The VeniceRentals.com folks were kind enough to get our apartment rental deposit moved to October so that is when we'll try again.
Nancy
Ann Arbor, MI USA 04/23/2010

Air Quality
Haven't heard anything about conditions on the ground in Europe. I'm scheduled to fly to France in a couple of weeks and if I am able to get there (and back) will I see blue sky or will I be walking around in a haze of (unhealthy) volcanic ash?
Geoff
Modesto, CA USA 04/23/2010

JUST missed the mess
We are leaving today as scheduled for our vacation to the south of France. Thankfully we just missed all the disruption, but the last few days have been stressful... wondering if our vacation will be cancelled. We joked about how we wished we could be stranded THERE and not HERE, but after reading about some people's experiences, I think that might have been just as unpleasant. Bon Voyage... I gotta finish packing!
Simone
St Laurent, QC Canada 04/22/2010

When in Rome...
I was part of the Rick Steves Heart of Italy in 9 days tour that ended on Sunday. I was supposed to fly to London for a night, then back to the US on Monday. I ended up staying in Rome until Wednesday morning. I would not have minded the extra time if British Airways had better resources available - we could not get through to their numbers at all, and their website did not allow us to do anything. In the end, we were able to get through by calling someone in the states, having them call the US 800 number, and then conferenced us in. Also, we heard from others in our group that they were able to fly no problem - because they were on a direct Rome to US flight. British Airways refused to put us on another carrier, insisting we fly them (which meant we HAD to go through London).

Lesson learned: When flying to Europe, fly direct from the US. If you have to connect, connect in the US whenever possible. Or, fly the major airline for the country you are going to. If we had been on Alitalia, United, USAir, Continental, we would have been able to fly out on Sunday. Those in our group who flew BA, Air France, KLM, or Lufthansa all had to connect through a northern-European city that was shut down. And none of them would consider putting us on another carrier.

I also discovered that British Airways will reimburse me 100 GBP a day for hotel (double occupancy) and 25 GBP a day for food - but this is not something they tell you - i only found it out after I said something to the phone rep about the extra cost to me. So keep your receipts if this ever happens to you - you can get an address/fax number later to send them to.
Kirsten Dartnell
Falls Church, VA USA 04/22/2010

Stuck in Rome
We have been traveling in Italy for the past 9 days and have been bumped from our flights. We find Rome to be great. We had no problem finding a room and are enjoying our time in the city. Seems like everyone here is taking it in stride and making the best of it. Have heard of no one having problems other than getting back to the States. The gelato supplies appear to be adequate.
Bill & Rosemary
Springfield, VA USA 04/21/2010

Travel Enjoyed Best 3 Weeks After We Unpack
It's an ill wind that doesn't blow somebody some good during this unprecedented period of travel interruptions. But offhand, aside from jet fuel-free air on the continent, audible birdsong near Heathrow and amusing blogs by Rick Steves, I can't think of much good about erupting volcanos. Of course, it's not the event itself that causes grief to us as much as the way we react to it. Personally, I'm glad to be on the ground near my own home at least for now. We forge the chains we wear in life and those of us who constantly respond to the blandishments about the romance of travel must know we will inevitably be inconvenienced.
Bill Kester
Pendleton, SC USA 04/21/2010

Things seem to be clearing up
We are (hopefully) heading to Frankfurt on the 23rd (via Chicago). Looks like things are finally opening up a bit. I have been obsessively checking EVERYWHERE, but especially on the NY Times website, where there is a great interactive map that shows individual European airports and their status. http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2010/04/15/world/europe/airport-closings-graphic.html

This is our very first 2-week Europe tour, and I am crossing everything that crosses in hopes that we actually get to go! (Germany, The Netherlands, Paris and Rome)
Alyca
Seattle, WA USA 04/21/2010

We just flew to LAX from Zurich, finally
We were in Freiburg, Germany, visiting friends when airspace closed. We had been in Europe since Easter Week, enjoyed Rome, France, Germany, etc. Due to fly out of Zurich Monday to DC, continuing on to LAX.

We spent Sunday night at the airport hotel, as planned, and went to the airport Sunday evening. It was dead, empty except for police.We went in Monday early and talked to ticket agents. They knew nothing.

We decided to stay in Zurich, as it is small but quite well-run. People were taking taxis to Spain or Rome, having heard of stand-by flights there. It was just crazy, and the rumors were thick. One guy had come in on the train from Vienna, etc. The trains were full, car rentals going all over Europe. "Moscow is open," the rumor would be, and people would head there. Or Spain. Or Rome.

Tuesday morning early we went to United. They directed us to Air Canada, which would fly us out, stand-by, to Toronto, and then we could probably connect to LAX. Would that do? Yes, indeed! No additional cost.

We got our bags, got stand-by tickets, etc. Got on that plane!! People were SO happy to get out. It was really quite unsettling. We'd been there since Easter, in Rome and etc., and just were so ready to come home.

The guy next to my husband had been stuck in Milan with his family. They took a taxi to Zurich @$900, paid $1600 each for one-way, last-minute tickets to Toronto. I don't believe they were stopping there, either.

It is really a mess in Europe right now (on Tuesday, anyway). Swiss Air, United, they were so helpful, but being stuck, ready to go home, needing to get back to work, and being stuck because of a volcano with no idea of when you get out -- it is not especially romantic.

As we flew out, the pilot announced (about half-way to Toronto) that airspace had again closed. We had a slim Window of Opportunity.

Travel is nice, and we are as flexible as can be, but it was a big mess as of yesterday. We are so glad to be home.
Bette Solomon
Sierra Madre, CA USA 04/21/2010

Europe experience under the cloud
I was due to fly back to the US from Berlin on 16 April after spending 10 days in Italy and Germany. I was watching CNN on 15 April when I heard about the ash cloud and flight cancellations. I was scheduled on a flight from Berlin to Zurich, then Zurich to Boston. I called my travel agent for advice. Rebooked flight from Zurich to Boston for Saturday and train back down to Zurich, thinking I could go south and be OK. Train was packed with other travelers...standing room only for some legs of trip, but overall better than staying in an airport. Got to Zurich and checked in with Tourist office who found me a decent hotel within walking distance of train station. Was in constant touch with travel agent as info on travel was updated. Luckily, I was able to stay at the same hotel (albeit in a more expensive room for Sunday and Monday night) and was rescheduled for 20 April flight. As for travel, up to April 20th, I found that waiting in a line to get a train reservation that did not require one would take longer than just getting on the train and hoping for good luck. For the Berlin to Zurich train (reservations not required but obtainable), I chose to take a chance. For the 6 hour trip, I had to stand for maybe 1 hour total. I was traveling with a first class rail pass however. I would also recommend people check in with the Tourist info office for hotels, etc. My biggest frustration was the uncertainty about travel by air. Once I was confirmed for the 20 April flight, I could sit back and relax in Zurich. The unplanned time was awesome as I experienced the Zurich spring festival parades on 18 and 19 April.
Claudette
Norwich, VT USA 04/21/2010

Belgian Airspace Closure
My flight from Charleroi, Belgium to Warsaw, Poland was cancelled Saturday night. I was able to get a reasonably priced overnite train leaving Brussels Tuesday afternoon. The train station was a madhouse this past weekend. Long lines of frustrated travelers had to wait 1.5 hours or more to talk to an agent. My 58 Euro hotel raised its rate to 79 Euro for Saturday night saying it was because of supply and demand. I moved to another hotel that charged 120 Euro for two nights. The TI at Grand Place was very helpful in finding new accomodations. Overall, not too bad if you are flexible and not too encumbered - I'm travelling by myself.
Peter Lagosz
Dana Point, CA USA 04/20/2010

I'm so glad you have added this topic. We are scheduled to leave tomorrow. At this point we can get only to Zurich as indicated on airline website, but not on to Rome. We expect that to change and be okay by then.... Very curious to know what we will be experiencing when we arrive!
Mary
Cape Cod, ma USA 04/20/2010

Assume you will return, as Rick says...
My two-week vacation in the UK will now have to be postponed. I was so taken with how nice the Magical Mystery Tour people in Liverpool were about letting me save my ticket and use it at a future date, which I will confirm with them. A retired pilot said something worth thinking about on the Today Show yesterday, relative to feeling bad about canceled flights both here in the States and in Europe due to volcanic activity. He said that among pilots there's an old saying: "I'd rather be on the ground wishing I were in the air than in the air wishing I were on the ground."
Judith
Chicago, IL USA 04/20/2010