Rick Steves' Spain and Portugal 2004
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Spain, Portugal, Gibraltar & Morocco
I spent a few months traveling through Iberia and Morocco around this time last year with my husband. I have received emails from dozens of Rick Steves fans asking for help in planning - and hopefully I have helped! More than happy to assist any other travelers with tips, advice and general info/comments on areas we visited. We used Rick's books for Spain and Portugal with much success. marchisaries@aim.com
Helary <email>
Studio City, Ca USA Fri 06/10/2005
Tangier 'sTour Guide [Charif]
We can't tell how much fun We had in Tangier. It was the best part of our trip. We had a lot of fun touring around the sites, seeing things that most tourists don't get to see. We have had a few different tour guides in the places around the world I have been to, but Charif[starstour@hotmail.com]Was the best one We've come across. we will definitely use His services again, and recommend him to anyone coming to Tangier's/Morocco for a holiday.
I am very happy to include my e-mail.
I have been e-mailing with him over the last week during the planning for our Morocco trip. he has always been very helpful, and clarified many of the issues that are almost impossible to understand from the tour agents and guide books. Information such as entrance fees, reliable costs, what to do, whether The Museum is open in The Kasbah, and so many other things! I just counted - and you've sent me 10 emails! And, the most amazing thing, is not once did he ask for any charge or anything for his advice, or encourage me to do a tour trip with him, or anything. he obviously love his job which I think is essential to being able to do a job well. And he obviously know his stuff - in fact, most of the tour agents were wrong on information and he Was right! So, I would readily encourage people to contact him regarding his tour guide services, or for any advice on those tricky issues that are hard to sort out in planning a trip to Morocco..
Kathy & bill Bagshaw <email>
Studio City, Ca USA Sun 06/05/2005
Tangier
Tangier is really a lovely place to visit especially if you use a guide services,last summer we had the chance to have a very good guide from there:AZIZ BENAMI who has arranged for us everything .He made for us a tour including a deluxe transportation for 1 day for only 34 Euros per prson,a walking tour in the old Medina cost 12 Euros,and he also can make a reservation in a very nice restaurant which include Andalucian music.
He knows a lot about history,culture and speaks very well English...You can reach him here: www.moroccotours.tk or write him directelly to : moroccoguide@hotmail.com tel: +212 68663225 I am sure he can accept your reservation
If you meet him give him our wishes:
Emma and James U.K.
Emma and Tang <email>
London, ENG Mon 05/30/2005
Tangier Morocco
I am currently in Morocco and Everything is fine. I am in Tangier right now and have talked to numerous English and American travelers who have been in Morocco Many Times and have had N0 Problems at All concering their safety.
Some notes: When coming to Tangier DO NOT stay at any of the hotels by the railway station. 4 canadian travelers have been ripped off at these places in the past 10 days- heed the warnings in the Lonely Planet. The best place to stay IS Hotel Mamora. It is located on the (Mokhtar Ahardan Ex Rue des Postes) behind the Grand Mosque. E.Mail: hotel_mamora@theatermail.net Private Double room With Hot shower For 300 Dh (27.5 Euros.)The Hotel is overlooking the Mediterranean sea and only minutes walk from the centre of town.All rooms are provided with private bathroom,There is a restaurant downstairs who offers an excellent full Moroccan lunch and dinner.Hotel Mamora can offer the right combination and informal relaxed atmosphere.they want your stay to be everything you had hoped it would be … and more!! All rooms are provided with private bathroom,There is a restaurant downstairs who offers an excellent full Moroccan lunch and dinner.
The manager's name is Ben hassan and he provides a safe, comfortable atmosphere and will take you or Advise/arrange for you to see anything you would like.
Georgia day <email>
Portland, OR USA Tue 03/29/2005
Segovia, El Escorial & Basque country
We returned to Spain last October and visited a few places in Rick's book (on a previous trip we stayed in more of Rick's recommendations - happily!). In Segovia, we stayed at Hotel Los Linajes. We had a sprawling suite with a separate sitting room and a balcony with a superb view, especially at sunrise. The Roman aquaduct was an incredible site. And the evening paseo was enjoyable, mingling with the locals. Great tapas & friendly service at Restaurante Jose just off the central plaza. El Escorial was crowded and a bit of a disappointment. The library was the most interesting room. Parking was a problem, even tho we got there early. It's a very easy, pleasant drive from Segovia.
We drove on to the Basque area and stayed in Emperatriz Zita Hotel. It was our favorite place to stay on the trip. Nice service there, and good waterfront location. Also an unbelievable value! We had a huge balcony overlooking San Nicolas Island and the bay. Super meals at a super value in the restaurant, and a great place just to stay at your hotel and decompress. The spa in the basement is a real treat. Lekeitio is wonderful & scenic, and pleasant town to stay in. Wish we could have stayed longer. Great fun to watch the waves crashing on the wall.
Next drove to Hondarribia and stayed at the Parador. Wow! First rate setting - it's an incredible place to stay, in Carlos V's old palace. The balcony views can't be beat, overlooking the bay & France. Wow! Hondarribia is a great little town to stroll around in. Other, non-Rick places we visited were the Pyrenees, through Aragon, and finally Siguenza (which makes an easy drive back to Madrid for the flight out). Love Spain! Highly recommend it, and don't be afraid to wander away from Rick's sites as well! The Spanish are friendly people who are accomadating even with a language barrier.
Ann
NC USA Sun 02/06/2005
December Trip to Madrid
Just returned from Madrid, Toledo, and Segovia. All of Rick's suggestions were fantastic! In Madrid, Hotel Europa is, indeed, undergoing renovations, but the remodeled rooms were superb with great views of the Puerta del Sol and double-glazed, soundproof glass, even with all the late night Christmas fesitivites.
Absolutely go to Cafe Artemisa, even if you are not a vegetarian- SUPERB food on every occasion we ate there (3 times!). Be sure to have Churros con Chocolate at Chocolateria San Gines, just down from Puerta del Sol- a very happening place for dessert, and the best chocolate in town- we sampled alot with our two kids!In Toledo, Hotel Sol was a great bargain and friendly Jose was very helpful. Simple but classic rooms at great prices - we had reserved a quad for ourselves and our 2 kids and changed to 2 doubles for more privacy with hardly any price change!
Theneat at Meson de Palacios- Jesus (mentioned in the book) is a lovely man and went out of his way to get us a table, even though the place was booked with a large Christmas party for the evening.We had never heartd of Rick Steves before moving to London, when we met friends from Seattle. Now my kids even worship him- his book was a fantastic guide and jumping off point for all kinds of adventures!
Sue <email>
London, England Mon 12/27/2004
Hotel Europa
Just spent 10 days in Spain -- Barcelona (3), Madrid (5), and Toledo (2). Madrid served as a great home base for day trips to El Escorial and Segovia. Needed no car. Bus and subway (Metro) were very reliable and fast. Hotel Europa in Madrid is under some renovation. Although our room was clean, the rest of the hotel was dusty, noisy during the day, and covered with plastic. Other than that, we enjoyed our stay. If the street noise at places like Puerta del Sol bothers you, use ear plugs. That worked well for us.
Tim <email>
Houston, TX USA Fri 12/03/2004
Madrid Day Trips & Restaurant Recommendation
Three of my friends and I just got back from a six-day vacation in Madrid. Our day trips to Toledo, Segovia, and Toledo were the highlights. We couldn't have done it without your accurate info on 'how to get there'. Rental car was not an option for us. Your recommendation to use the bus rather than the train was right on the money.
Madrid itself had its own charms and interesting sights, but the prevalence of pickpockets made our trip less than pleasant. We were lucky enough not to have been victimized thanks to our New York City streetsmarts and your reminders as to which areas to be extra careful.
We made our arrangements via an internet agency and stayed at a hotel in the Plaza Espana area (though not recommended by you). One night we were just too tired to venture further and went to a neighborhood restaurant for dinner. We had one of our best meals! The place is called 'Restaurante Dudua' on Cuesta San Vicente, 2. It's frequented by locals - no tourist in sight except for us. You may want to check it out.
And you're right again regarding 'Sobrino del Botin' - touristy and pricey. It was packed with fellow Americans!!! We should have known better.
F Yalong <email>
New Brunswick, NJ USA Wed 12/01/2004
Madrid and Barcelona
I just got back from traveling in Spain and had a great time. I stayed almost exclusively at hotels recommended by Rick and liked them all. I have additional recommendations: Since I flew into Madrid and was only staying one day before AVE'ing to Seville, I stayed at the Best Western Hotel Madrid. I got a great deal on their website, and most importantly the shuttle from the airport (and even breakfast) was included! This was very convenient and saved me some cash.
Also, in Barcelona I stayed at Citadines on the Ramblas. They give apartment style comforts, which was much needed towards the end of my trip. Even if you are not staying there, there are good views of the city on their 9th floor rooftop (solarium).
JMSH <email>
Simi Valley, CA USA Wed 12/01/2004
Driving in Spain
We just returned from 11 days in Spain. Madrid (4 days), Toledo (2), Seville (2), Costa del Sol (3). We used Rick's guide and have nothing but good things to say about the accuracy and completeness of the information it provided.
If you are planning to drive beware that road signage is an afterthought in Spain. Be sure to obtain the most current map possible because the Spanish tend to change road names while forgetting to change road signs and maps.Costa del Sol is nice, but next time we will spend the time in Portugal and/or Morocco.
Mark and Marian <email>
Chicago, IL USA Mon 11/29/2004
Madrid & Toledo Hostal Recommendation
My wife & I returned 22 Nov. from 16 days in Spain, part of it with another couple. We had nothing but good experiences with people and public transportation, and have two hearty recommendations for hostal stays.
The first is the HOSTAL ACAPULCO in Madrid; when we go back to Spain, we will definitely stay there again. It's family owned and the staff is wonderful. We went to Toledo for an overnight, and they let the 4 of us store our bags there while we took day bags with clean underwear to Toledo. When we asked for directions to a coin laundry, they offered to (and did) wash our clothes for us. We made reservations for a total of 6 nights the day after we arrived in country, then changed them a few days later with no problems. The staff (Marco) and owner's son (Francisco) were incredibly gracious and accommodating throughout our stay, the rooms are clean and cheerful, and their rates are surprisingly low. The cage-type elevator is safe--it was refurbished early in 2004!
We spent only one night at HOTEL ALMAZARA in Toledo, but what a pleasant night. It's a taxi ride out of town into the quiet countryside. We got lucky and got a view room looking back over olive trees and rosemary bushes to the city of Toledo. The sunset was beautiful. The place looked like something out of a movie set, with a courtyard and long, tree-lined drive coming in from the highway. It was clean and inexpensive and the staff were courteous and professional. Had to laugh, though, when an employee recommended a restaurant to us. I asked if the restaurant served tapas, and he replied, "I don't know, I haven't eaten there." Maybe there was a referral fee involved? We went to the Casco district in search of our tapas, rather than to the
restaurant.
Rick <email>
Bellingham, WA USA Thu 11/25/2004
Spain and Portugal
Just returned from 2 fabulous weeks in southern Spain with our 8 & 5 yr. old boys. Spain was very clean, friendly and organized. It really exceeded our expectations and we felt like we never had enough time to take it all in-loveliness at every turn. Driving was well sign-posted and relaxed (we avoided city driving.) We had gorgeous weather and it rained only on the day we visited British soil in Gibraltar (How funny!)
As mentioned below, many people do not speak English--we treated this as a challenge rather than an impediment and were never stumped. Folks were gracious and patient with us. Rick's phrase book was very helpful. I even managed to explain my son's yeast infection to a pharmacist. (I'm pretty proud of that one! A drawing of a mushroom did the trick.)
Sevilla-Casa de la Juderia is wonderful- we did an evening "explorata" of the hotel and found all sorts of curious subterranean passageways and even ended up following a series of connected rooftops until we descended almost a full block away, still in the hotel. The breakfast has to be eaten to be believed-hugest buffet in Europe. It was great entertainment just to learn what other people ate for breakfast-myriad cultures were represented. Maria Luisa Park is lovely and has fun pedal carts for up to 6 people. The Alcazaba gardens were a pleasant surprise-keep going until you reach the maze at the back. Also highly endorse San Marco restaurant-jovial and tasty.
Ronda: Parador was fabulous as a hotel. We had a duplex suite which had 2 levels and 2 balconies over the gorge. Amazing! The restaurant there is nice, but I think "muy elegante" is stretching it a bit. They were very gracious to our children. The ice cream shop across from the bull ring serves fabulous oversize cones.
The bullring was very cool and the town is lovely. There is a new attraction that let's you go inside the arches of the Ronda bridge. Nothing fancy, but a thrilling sense of being up high over the gorge. Enter from the corner of the bridge closest to the Parador.
Rick's tip to see Pileta Caves is good. The caves are remarkable and a real treat to see. It was easy to imagine ancient people living and working in the cave. The farmer who runs the tour, however, is a bit stubborn. We arrived at 10 am, but sat on a rock (WITH THE GUIDE) for 1.5 hours "waiting for enough people for a tour." He refused to take us in until more people showed up. Considering the tour only lasted 45 min, he could have taken us through TWICE before anyone else arrived. Different attitude, I guess, but very frustrating. Keep this in mind if you go. We ended up having to race to Zahara Castle to reach it before nightfall. Also note that Rick's rec restaurant in the Pileta Caves section, nearby "Casita," is only open F-M in the off season. The Patio restaurant about 50m up the hill was a good alternative.
Castles: We loved them all. Zahara, Sevilla Alcazaba, Salobrena, Almunecar, the Alhambra. Lots of ruins, lots of stairs. Almunecar was closed for archaeological excavation, but my little guy started crying and they let us in if we promised to be very careful and not step in their work. Of course we were. The castles were very adventure-kid friendly and romantic too. Reading Washinton Irving's "Tales of the Alhambra" will enhance your castle experience.
Tarifa/Morocco: Highly recommend Hurricane Hotel, 7 km west of Tarifa. Very friendly, nice breakfast, pool, beach, etc. Out of the bustle of things. We had a family suite for 130E, incl. mini backyard. Took the one day tour of Morocco for a brief taste of Africa. We really appreciated a glimpse of a world so different from our everyday life. We were there the day Chairman Arafat died, but encountered no concerning activity. The hustlers are totally annoying, but we tried to treat it as sport. The ferry is speedy and efficient. The camel ride is literally 15 seconds around the parking lot and terrifying to get off-I was afraid I had crushed my son in front of me. Lunch was quite good and our guide was competent.
Granada: The Alhambra is definitely the highlight. It was FREEZING-literally frosty- the morning we were there. We can vouch for the hot chocolate dispenser in the cafe area. Great for warming up hands. Note: The museums in the Charles V palace are closed for the winter. Granada is a huge oneway mess of streets-we returned our car as soon as possible and went with handy buses and cabs. Not in Rick's book, but we really liked Hotel Palacio de Santa Ines. Great location, very clean duplex room with spiral stairs, and genuine, sincere staff. The Sacromonte gypsy interpretive museum was fascinating. We were the only people there.
Madrid: Hostal Cervantes was clean, safe and friendly, if a bit sparse. Served us perfectly for one night. We enjoyed another successful museum scavenger hunt with our kids in the Prado. We all loved it. There is a wonderful old-fashioned toy shop on Plaza Mayor. The elderly gentleman who runs the shop carefully removes toys from the case one by one for the inspection of wide-eyed children. What a refreshing change from Toys R Us.
I repeat my mantra: take your children, just go, it's not as hard as you think. Soak it up!!
Angela <email>
Sammamish, WA USA Mon 11/22/2004
Alhambra
We visited Alhambra in early June with previous reservation for 2pm entry, and 5 pm entry at Nasrid Palaces. There was no line for ticket purchase or ticket pick-up and, considering the season, there were very few tourists in the Alhambra, as our photos attest. Even the Nasrid Palaces were fairly tame, considering what we had expected. It helps to time your stipulated entry to Nasrid Palaces for a couple hours after you will enter Alhambra through the main turnstile (next to ticket pick-up window), since the Palaces are located a distance from there. (You have 30 minute grace period to enter Palaces from the time you stipulate, e.g., 5 pm entry is good until 5:30 pm, but not at 4:30 pm. This is strictly enforeced.)Also, we noticed gentleman try to pick up his next day ticket at 7 pm; he was turned away at the counter and told to return at 8am following morning.
Jean-Marie
Washington, DC USA Thu 11/11/2004
Alhambra
I was interested to read that Warren Phelps was able to pick up reserved tickets for the Alhambra a day ahead. When I was there in June I was told this wasn't possible. BTW, if you stay at the Hotel America or the parador, your taxi will drive right past the ticket office and on up the hill - it would be worth trying to get it to stop while you pick up your tickets, otherwise you'll have to trek back down - and up again. I stayed at the Hotel America and loved it - they gave me a neat single-with-bath over the front door with a view of the Sierra Nevada, and it was an easy stroll over to the parador for drinks and dinner with a view.
I can't recommend the evening visit to the Alhambra highly enough. NO tour groups, not many people at all, mostly quiet people - it was a magical evening. Get there when it (re)opens and you will still see the reflection in the pool in the Court of the Myrtles, and can watch the lights coming on in the Albaycin. (Take your camera, there's enough lighting.) Next afternoon, with wall-to-wall tour groups, it was a different place. If I go back, I'll do the evening tour, then the Generalife garden in the hopefully cool morning and siesta in the afternoon. Of course, a night train makes the siesta difficult - you could spend the afternoon in the cathedral instead, there's nothing like thick stone walls for keeping things cool. Otherwise, expecially after just visiting Chartres and Toledo, the cathedral is skippable.
Note that even in mid-June southern Spain was miserably hot and AC is really a necessity. After one night at the Hotel Peninsula in Barcelona with 'AC' consisting of a table fan and a window opening on an air shaft I moved half a block closer to the Ramblas to the Espana. I'm afraid I wasn't impressed with the Ramblas - one group of tourists sitting sipping overpriced drinks and watching a second group of tourists parade past.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA Thu 11/11/2004
Archeolgy in Portugal
My husband and I spent the first two weeks of October in Portugal and our focus was historic and archeological sites, of which Portugal abounds. We rented a car from Lisbon and headed north. There are wonderful dolmens, iron age castros and roman bridges to be found. We bought a book entitled "Portugal 1001 Sights--An archeological and historical guide" from Calgary Press. It gives good directions to find these off the beaten path gems. (Beware that since 1994 when this book was published much road construction has occurred, and a few of the directions need to be updated)
Among our favorites was Castro de Sao Lourenco, near the Vila Cha on the coast west of Braga. It is an iron age settlement, smaller than Citania de Briteros, but with a more specatucular view and signs describing what you are looking at in English! We had the whole site to ourselves on a Sunday morning. Another don't miss is Foz Coa. It is about 4 hours north east of Lisbon, and is one of the largest and most important neolithic sites. It has petroglyphs 20,000 years old. You are taken to the remote site in groups of 8 by a guide. You must make reservations, but it only 5 E per person per site. There are 3 tours you can take. We only had time for one, and plan to go back on another trip. If you are into archeology...this is incredible stuff.
I must also make mention of Coinbriga, a well preserved roman site near Coimbra, the University town. It has more beautiful mozaic floors than any site we'd seen, including Pompeii. It also has a 2000 year old functioning fountain that is in the peristyle of a fabulous villa...it must have over 500 sprays of water encircling raised garden beds in a 100x50 ft pool. A bonus is a nice small museum with English translations.
For newer history, our favorite was the World Heritage site at Tomar, the 12th century monestary/castle built by the Knights Templar. We just about had the place to ourselves on a Sunday (when it is free) and there are some nice displays (in English) telling the history, plus countless rooms and gardens to roam in.
A final comment on Lisbon. The Torre de Belem was a dissapointment...no displays or information of any kind. I would snap a picture from the outside and spend your 6 E across the road at the nice archeology museum which can be seen in its entirety in about 2 hours...very nice displays.
Also beware the pickpockets on the trolleys that go out to Belem. A friend had 200E removed from his wallet, and then tossed on the floor by the perpetrator, who then kindly points it out to the gentleman, "did you drop that?" They are smart enough not to take anything but cash, so how could we prove he did it? Otherwise we had a wonderful time in Portugal. It was clean, friendly, great sea food, and truly a cradle of civilization.
Vicki Dempsey <email>
Hannibal, MO USA Sun 11/07/2004
Hotel Tips For Drivers in Spain
Just returned from 2 weeks driving in Spain, staying in 3 of Rick's recommended hotels. While we second the recommendations, they all present a challenge if you are driving.
Hotel Amadeus in Seville - is located in an alley, far too narrow for a car, and the intersecting street is one lane and one way with no place to pull over to unload luggage. You can't get there from anywhere. Best bet is to e-mail hotel for directions to parking garage on Calle Menendez y Pelayo, and from there for walking to Hotel.
Hotel Santa Isabel in Toledo (Best bargain in Spain) When you get on the Ronda de Toledo watch for white arrow hotel direction signs on lamp posts. When you find one for Santa Isabel, follow religiously and you'll be directed to hotel. Suggest you pre-reserve parking. Caution - while we easily made it to the hotel and into parking garage with a van, getting out of town was a different story. Streets so narrow that at one point I "kissed" a wall with the right side of the car while having only 2" clearance on the left.
Hotel Europa in Madrid - located on a pedestrian only street, pull your car onto the mall near King Charles III statue and run into the hotel for help with baggage and parking. Hotel is being extensively renovated, so first look at lobby can be a shock, and its "red carpet charm" is threadbare. But, it's in a great location. Ask for a room in new section (double superior) as they have been beautifully remodeled. Those in old part look pretty grim.
,/p>Tips for Gibraltar - Per Rick's book, stay in left lane as traffic starts to get congested, and turn left at the light at the customs (Aduana) house. Was plenty of street parking. Cable car round trip including admission to nature reserve has gone up in price to 25 Euros. Eat before you go to the top - what Rick calls a "slick restaurant/view terrace" is a grossly overpriced cafeteria serving horrible food. E.g., a 10 Euro "hot dog" was 2 dried out, overcooked sausages in a bun.
Bob Rohde <email>
St. Charles, IL USA Thu 11/04/2004
Sevilla, Gib, Tanger, and Salema
A week ago my wife and I returned from Spain, Gibraltar, Morocco, and Portugal. We used Rick's Spain and Portugal book, which was very useful in every case. In Sevilla we stayed at the Hotel Amadeus, which was a treat, right in the Barrio Santa Cruz. From Santa Justa train station you can take a taxi to a point close to the hotel for about 4 euro. Sevilla is a beautiful city with much interesting architecture and history.
In Gib we stayed in the Queens Hotel, which is OK, but you better not be too bothered by wee-hour street noise. Fortunately, we aren't. While in Morocco we arranged a tour of Tanger with Aziz Begouri. You can't go wrong with Aziz. He took us into the heart and soul of Tanger, and explained things very well. Without Aziz you'd be hard-pressed and possibly ill-advised to venture into the areas he'll take you to. But it's a real trip with him; He's your Man in Tanger. He also offers a week-long trip into the Sahara of Morocco, which we're considering.
If you're Salema-bound, consider staying at John's Pension Amare. It was a fine place for us. If it rains, and you leave your door open like we did, you're likely to have a kitty visitor. Watch out ... it bites!
Lynn A Goss <email>
Asheville, NC USA Fri 10/29/2004
Wellington Society Of Madrid
I just got a look at the 2005 Spain book and see the fee for membership in the Wellington Society of Madrid listed as 25 euros. It is actually 30 euros and has been since the beginning of 2004. Also, a more accurate description of what in included is available on the web site at www.wellsoc.org.
Bruce Lederer <email>
Newton, MA USA Mon 10/25/2004
Madrid tours
Ww can't say enough good things about Carlos and Jennifer and the tours they provided for us in Madrid. They are extremely informative and know their stuff. We hope to return to Spain and will definitely call on Carlos and Jennifer to arrange our tours
Eileen Harris <email>
Winchester, Va USA Mon 10/25/2004
Granada, Spain
Avoid driving in the city. Many main streets are not marked and/or only for taxi/bus. Very easy to get lost even with a good map. Be able to say "I'm lost" and ask for "directions" in Spanish. People were very friendly & helpful. Would recommend a train to Granada & taxi to the hotel.
Warren Phelps <email>
Chicago, IL USA Sat 10/23/2004
Nerja, Spain
Stayed in the Hotel de Marinas Nerja-just outside Nerja-walking distance to Nerja along the beach. Hotel is on the sea and has a wonderful buffet breakfast & dinner. Two outdoor pools & all rooms have a terrace facing the sea.
Warren Phelps <email>
Chicago, IL USA Sat 10/23/2004
Spain & Portugal Book
Suggest you separate out Spain and Portugal into two separate books. Gets quite heavy to carry around all day (would not tour without your books). Have just completed my 5th trip using your books-great information especially the highlighted sights in each areas and days/times they are open.
Warren Phelps <email>
Chicago, IL USA Sat 10/23/2004
Toledo, Spain
The Madrid to Toledo train stops right before Toledo (no train tracks at the Toledo station) and then they bus you to the Toledo train station. Came as a suprise. The bus runs on the schedule train time for the retrun trip.
Warren Phelps <email>
Chicago, IL USA Sat 10/23/2004
Alhambra, Granada
There is a separate window for advance reservations for the Alhambra and they will give out your ticket the evening before between 7-8pm. Helps avoid waiting in line the next day.
Warren Phelps <email>
Chicago, Il USA Sat 10/23/2004
Toledo
Just back from Toledo. The train ride mentioned is great. The Cathedral is undergoing a great renovation in the choir and main altar. Completely takes away from the glowing description in the book. A consideration to add is the Church of the Jesuits [also known as the Church of San Juan Baptiste (sp)] Beautiful church, allows photos (no other church/site did), and a wonderful climb to the towers for a view over the city. Only 1.50 euro.
Lori Ann Martin <email>
El Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain, USA Sat 10/16/2004
Hotel recommendation in Madrid
My wife and I stayed at a Rick Steves' recommended Hostal Acapulco in Madrid in August while on our honeymoon and had a fantastic experience! Javier was extremely helpful and offered great advice on places to go (and not go) and things to do in the city. They arranged a bus tour for us too.The room was one of the best values we had in Spain. They were even so kind and gracious as to have champagne on ice for us since we were on our honeymoon!
I can’t say enough good things about Rick Steves and Hostal Acapulco! From the old-fashioned elevator to the modern room and conveniences, the experience was worth making this effort to recommend it to others.Enjoy,Glen
Glen <email>
Toronto, ON Canada Wed 10/13/2004
Spain and Portugal Accommodation
Just returned from Portugal and Spain. Rick's advice on accommodations really helped. Pension Mare in Salema is the best. Had a super apartment.
Hotel Los Olivos in Arcos was fantastic. It's close to the old town and has it's own parking lot for 5 euros per night. Good breakfast available too. Thanks, Rick.
Dave Thomasson <email>
St. Louis, MO USA Tue 10/12/2004
Venice - hotel and water taxi
Returned to Italy again this August and spent two days in Venice. Stayed at Hotel DaBruno, recommended in your guide book in 2000. Was great then and still is! Have seen critques of it's breakfast, but I found it satisfactory and everyone was SO KIND! It's close to everything and has been remodelled a bit - beds more comfortable and rooms quite attractive.My friends came with boisterous children and economically secured a larger room with more beds. The management was very tolerant of the rather rowdy pre-teens.I'd recommend DaBruno heartily to anyone, as I am a satisfied visitor twice!
Add note: we took a water taxi to try to reach friends on time one early evening. It costs about the same as a gondola and was great fun. I'd recommend it as a one-splurge to get to the Zattere from the center of Venice as you are able to go through the smaller canals and then out amongst the big boats. Very fun!MaryOakland, California
Mary Austern <email>
Oakland, CA USA Sun 10/10/2004
Portugal
Took a few days to explore before a conference in Lisbon in late September. Rented a car and drove north -- Note: There is a gas station on the way into the airport; we missed it and paid through the nose for gas at the rental place.
Obidos was a great quiet place to use as a base, stayed at Casa de S. Thiago do Castelo and was very pleased (except for very hard beds.) Restaurant O Barco is no longer there. Alcaide was not bad, but avoid the cod (highly salted). Check out the tiny game park just outside the wall on the west side, and the face painted on the stones in the northwest corner.The ruins at Conimbriga were worth the drive -- stick to the toll roads, esp. on a Sunday, or go 30mph the whole way. Don't miss Caldos da Rainha's market & shops -- prices 25% of Lisbon's for many of the same crafts. The market was all locals, very friendly and great picnic food and fruit.
In Sintra, try the Residential Sintra, a converted mansion on the bus route to the sights with beautiful grounds and a lovely pool in sight of the Moorish castle. It's on the edge of San Pedro, with lower restaurant prices and fewer tourists than Sintra proper. You can walk down from the castle and you're right across the street from the hotel.
In Lisbon we stayed at Hotel Lisboa Tejo, which has great location, nice staff, but lots of street noise. The Gulbenkian was fabulous ; also the Tile Museum deserved more stars, we thought, but take a cab or the bus, don't try to walk it. Cabs are cheap. We ferried across the Tejo from Belem to Porto Brandao to eat fish stew (cataplanas), but it was 40 euro for two! so we went with the slightly less expensive bean-and-seafood dish (31 euro order for 1-2 feeds 3 easily). Check prices -- the Parafuso in Rick's book was the most expensive. All in all Portugal was very enjoyable -- wish we had had more time!
Susan
Seatlle, WA USA Thu 10/07/2004
trip to Spain
Rick, your guidebooks are the best. We just returned from a trip to Spain and we used your Spain and Portugal book as a guide. We did the walking tour in Madrid and did stop at the convent for dulces. What a fun experience. We did go to Valencia which was a city not included in your guidebook.The tapas were an excellent choice for a meal. Thank you so much. We also used your guide to Germany several years ago. Our travel experiences have been great in Europe thanks to your helpful information.
Julie Kraus <email>
New Ulm, MN USA Wed 10/06/2004
Granada, Malaga, Almeria in Anadulsia
In Granada, we stayed one night at Hotel Anacapri for about 97 euros (not including breakfast). It's a very nice hotel in a fun neighborhood and just half a block from a special bus that zips you to the Alhambra. Slightly small room, but clean, attractive and friendly staff (Cathy is an American who has lived in Granada 18 years).
IMPORTANT: If you are driving, prepare to get lost. The hotel is VERY hard to find (others have said this too). Apparently,the hotel website has a map that helps.
In Malaga, stayed at Hotel Don Paco. It was fine, nothing great. Close to train station.
If anyone is going off the beaten track, we drove east from Malaga towards Almeria for a conference. The highway is good, but very windy over coastal cliffs and the Spaniards drive very fast. What we thought would be a 1 hour drive turned into a nerve-wracking 3 hour drive.
There is very little to see or do heading east from Malaga. The caves at Nerja would have been a worthwhile stop. Almeria is an OK city. Brochures of Parc de Gabo (that's not quite the right name) looked attractive. I decided against going to Mini Hollywood (movie set in a desert/canyon area where spaghetti westerns and a few well-known movies were filmed), but slightly regretted it once we drove through that section of mountains. Very remote, austere, arid... hard to believe you're in Europe. Ask people if the beaches are comfortable for swimming: the coast near our hotel was pebbles, not sand, and it was too painful to swim or even wade without water shoes and Teflon for skin.
Karen <email>
Washington DC and Belgium, USA Wed 10/06/2004
Modernist/Gaudi sights in Barcelona
Just back from a beautiful week in Barcelona. The people were friendly, the weather was perfect, and I found the city to be very easy to navigate. English was spoken in most places, and my limited Spanish was enough to get us wherever we need to go.
The Gaudi sights were amazing. We did learn though that the Modernist-route combo ticket described in the 2004 guide is no longer offered. In 2002, the 150th birthday year of Gaudi, Barcelona held a year-long celebration of his works and offered the combo-ticket as part of the celebration. I learned this, and a lot more, by stopping by the modernist center. It's located on the Block of Discord next to Casa Batllo. So, no more combo tickets but the staff there is really nice and will sell you the guidebook from the 2002 combo-ticket tour for about 12 euros. Use it to create your own tour.
Casa Mila (La Pedrada), Park Guell and Casa Batllo were by far the highlights of my trip. Excellent exhibits and audio guides avaiable. Pack a picnic, head up to the park and enjoy your lunch with an amazing view. The park appears crowded when you first arrive, but once you pass the dragon fountain it opens up into a lot of open space. Spend the 4 euros to tour Gaudi's home for the last 20 or so years of his life. I did notice some wheelchairs in the park- a workout to push them up the paths, but one of the few tourist areas that seemed accessible.
Unless you're a big fan, skip the Picasso museum. Expensive, no guide books or audio tours, hot, and none of the painting titles were in English. None of the major works are there. But, there is a cafe nearby at the textile musuem that serves a good lunch. Sit there, enjoy your coffee, and watch the world go by.
Thanks Rick for the guide to Barconleta. We really enjoyed this area and felt it was the best example we experienced of the local people. I spent the entire time on La Rambla and the Barri Gotic waiting to be mugged, but in Barconleta- even when it was getting dark- I felt very safe. This is a not-to-be-missed area to get a feel for the local culture.
At no time during my trip did I ever feel I was being taken advantage of by a merchant or taxi driver. Great trip- thanks!!
Wendy <email>
Long Beach, CA USA Fri 09/24/2004
Battle of the Crusades Painting-Goya
Hi Rick,I was very interested in your T.V. show on Goya, his paintings and life in Spain. Did Goya ever paint "The Battle of the Crusades"? If so, what happened to it? Why is it never mentioned among his works? Was this a painting done while in exile, possibly under a different name, due to the exile? I believe the painting has been missing since arounds 1909.
Ron Uharriet <email>
Sun City,, Ca. USA Tue 09/21/2004
Coimbra to Salamanca bus
Rick's book was a boon to me when I travelled in Spain and Portugal two years ago. I have the 2004 edition now which still says there is a 5 hr bus available from Coimbra to Salamanca (leaving at 10:15 am, Mon, Fri, Sat), but I saw a post here, dated May, 2004, that said "4.5 hour bus ride from Coimbra to Salamanca was not available, and ours took over 7 hours (not direct)". I would like to know if anyone has any other knowledge of this - is Rick's book correct or not. I would be travelling Coimbra to Salamanca on a Friday, this November.
Chris <email>
Victoria, BC Canada Tue 09/21/2004
Sevilla, Spain
I am currently in Sevilla, Spain and called ahead from Granada to make several hotel reservations using Rick´s book. However, at several of the hostals listed, I was told the price of $45E was not accurate and the price was $55 for a double. Also, we found upon arrival that we were given a lower price. We stayed at the Pension Alcazar which cost $50 per night for a double with private bath which was very convenient, on a quiet street, AND cool in the hot afternoon. As Rick mentions, Sevilla is lovely and lively.
I would say DO NOT MISS a bullfight on Sunday nights at 6:30. Section 1 is the best seat as close as you can or Section 2. The tickets were $28E and worth every penny (we went on novice night). The bullfight was a mix of horror and after several hours, a morbid curiosity. We also loved Granada and found the tapas bars to be a wonderful experience.
CA USA Tue 09/21/2004
beware of the queens
Do not stay at the Queens Hotel inGibralter, it is terrible
Richard Schultz <email>
Absarokee, MT USA Mon 09/20/2004
Spain and Morocco
Just came back from Spain and Portugal; It was awesome and the peopl treated us so wonderfuuly. Here is where we stayed, all in Rick Steves book.
First, make sure you go into Morocco and book Aziz Begouri for his one day Gran tour at 35 Euros. It was a trip of a lifetime. He is amazing and you get to see things you would never see on your own. His Moroccon cell number is 00-212-6163-9332. You are completely safe with him and I cannot say enough how it will amaze you where he takes you. Places like the Kasbah, medinia, palaces, and the most amazing lunch we have ever had.You stay in Tarifa then take the ferry over which is a 35 minute ride. He will meet you on the boat so you are never alone. Take a chance, you will be so glad you did. Tell him Julie and Patrick sent you from Portland, Oregon and you want to eat at his family's restaurant. 9 dishes, and soooo good.
Anywayss, here is where we stayed in Spain and they were all PERFECT!
Madrid, Hotel Europa- Great location, ask for a higher level like # 4 and get a room facing the plaza. Gorgeous room, all marble bathroom. Extremely clean.
Seville, Hotel Amadeus- This is a must to stay. It is a music lovers dream, very clean, elegant, downright beautiful.
Toledo, Hotel Santa Isable- It is a 15th century building that ia amazing. Very clean, all marble bathroom, close to everything, really beautiful interior and it was $50 a night. I promise you will love it.
Tarifa, La Casa Amarilla- They are studios and one bedrooms that are very clean and close to everything. We loved it.
ALL in all, it was a wonderful trip. We were treated very well considering all the politics going on now. But make sure to do Morocco with Aziz. I cannot stress this enough. It gives you a look at the world beyone America. Email me if you have any questions but the RIck Steves book was "right on" and we were very please. Wouldnt leave home without it!!!!
Julie <email>
Oregon City, OR USA Fri 09/17/2004
Madrid
My family and I recently returned from Madrid, and wholeheartedly recommend the Hotel Plaza Mayor. The staff were very friendly and accomodating, and they had a great breakfast (not included in price) that served a variety of foods. they are located near the heart of museums and important sites in Madrid.
Laurie Akers <email>
Marysville, WA USA Tue 08/31/2004
Rick vs. Lonely Planet? Take both
Picking Rick or Lonely Planet is a false choice. Both are very good at what they do, but they do different things. My view: Rick writes for Americans on short trips, happy to take his advice on where to go. LP writes for people of many nationalities, often on long trips, who are going to more or different places.
I'm an Anglo-American currently on a long trip (10 months) and I use both. I've been reading (and recommending) Rick for over 10 years. He is very good on sight-seeing, and is good on accomodation - if you can afford his listings. Unfortunately, he seems to be moving more and more upmarket and out of my price bracket. Fine if you're splurging on a short trip, not so good if you're budgeting to afford a long one. Add in the fact that I need single rooms, and that I'm willing to sleep cheap so I can eat well, and these days few of Rick's hotel listings do me any good. Then, my tastes aren't necessarily his - I prefer arts and crafts to fine arts, I can OD fast on baroque and roccoco and I enjoy the country as much as the big cities.
I use the heavy, glossy guidebooks (think Insight) to decide where to go, LP to figure out how to get there, and Rick to tell me what I'm looking at when I'm there. But I need LP when I arrive too - their maps are much better and they tell me where to find things like embassies (e.g. in Vienna I needed to get a Chinese visa), supermarkets (to restock on basics) and English-language bookshops that deal in used paperbacks (alas, rare in Europe). But I agree LP isn't perfect either. They are still better on Asia than Europe and they don't have Rick's consistency - when I started having trouble with their hotel listings halfway across India, I realized I had moved on to a different author. So, I planned the Eastern Europe leg of this trip with LP, but when Rick's new book came out, I bought it as well, and traveled with pieces of both, despite being fanatical about packing light). YMMV
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA Thu 08/26/2004
Kid Food in Seville
Kid Friendly Places:
A few places for finicky kids. No authentic Spanish food, but no yellow arch either. All except Pizzeria San Marco are open 7 days a week and all except Creperi are under five minute walk from Cathedral (Creperi is ten minutes tops). All take credit and debit cards (Visa and MC):
1. Pizzeria San Marco (Meson del Moro, 3 blocks from Cathedral just off Mateos Gago): good pizza and pasta, okay salads; good service even when busy. Avoid the second floor if you can; it's cramped and hot. Sit downstairs instead in what may be the only pizzeria housed in a Moorish bathhouse. Closed Mondays.
2. Flaherty's Bar (opposite Cathedral exit (on Calle Alemanes opposite Cathedral's Puerta del Perdon)): erratic and occasionally awful service but great hamburgers and best salads in Seville.
3. Chinese restaurant on Mateos Gago, one block from Cathedral (just up street from Giralda Bar, same side of street, fish tank in front)): serviceable Chinese food in huge restaurant with good a/c for summer months.
4. La Creperi (not a misspelling)(Just off Plaza Alfalfa, on Calle Perez Galdos, 22 (phone: 954 222 802)): Great crepes as entrees and dessert. Crepes are light, not doughy. Dessert crepes: try the almond crepe, or the Brasilena. We always asked kitchen to go light on whipped cream but the waiter thought this constituted cruelty to children and politely ignored us, with a wink to our 11 year old. The pickiest American kids love this place. Young, very nice French guys run it; their mothers are often there in the early afternoon, perhaps to keep an eye on their very cute sons. Doesn't open until 2 pm and sxs closes b/t 4 and 8 pm.
5. Horno San Buenaventura: Combination full service restaurant/bar and pastry shop located on Avenida Constitucion across street from Cathedral. Other smaller branches throughout city. Second floor opens up after breakfast; kids can eat pre-fab pasta and homemade pastries/ice-cream at large tables with views of Cathedral. Second floor also has numerous outlets for those with laptops.
Jean-Marie
Washington, DC USA Thu 08/19/2004
Cordoba
Having lived, honeymooned, worked -- and just returned from a six month academic sabbatical --in Spain, I highly recommend the Mezquita in Cordoba. It is one of the top architectural sights in Spain (better than Seville's Cathedral (guess where we lived!) and Madrid's Royal Palace); the imposition of a cathedral in its center fails to undermine the beauty and perfect symmetry of Moorish architecture. Like Klutz book advertisements, this is one that appeals to the "nine to 99" crowd: our 11-year-old spent three hours marveling at and photographing the candy cane columns, and my husband and I were in awe pure and simple. It is also a photographer's paradise, despite the poor lighting. (Take a tripod. The $3 hand-held ones suffice.)
The rest of Cordoba is a poor man's version of Seville (hint: when in Seville, don't be chained to the guidebooks ; get lost in the Barrio Santa Cruz for an afternoon and toss back a drink on the open air veranda of the Alcazar), but you can do a return trip Seville-Cordoba-Seville on the train in a half day.
Jean-Marie Simon
Washington, DC USA Wed 08/18/2004
Salema, Portugal and Romantik Villa
Lisa and Jost at the Romantik Villa in Salema, Portugal now serve breakfast (included in the room rate). I stayed there for 4 nights in May 2004. Breakfast included cereal, yogurt, croissant, jam, roll, meat, cheese, juice and very good coffee. Plenty to fill you up! The room was very comfortable with private bath, tv (some English channels), minibar (also facilities to make coffee and tea). Small private patio with chairs and table. Private entrance to room. The grounds are beautiful! Nice pool with comfortable lounge chairs. I felt very comfortable and safe there. Lisa and Jost are very friendly and nice. Lisa will give recommendations of places to visit and good restaurants.
I highly recommend renting a car in southern Portugal. I am a timid driver, but driving in southern Portugal was easy when in a home base such as Salema. Rented from Budget. Picked up the car at the airport in Faro and dropped it in Lagos before taking the bus to Lisbon. Price was reasonable and experience was good. I rented an automatic as I don't drive a manual. The man at the Budget office in Lagos took me to the bus station (no charge). I extended the rental by 1 day for the prorated amount of the weekly rental amount (total rental was over a week). Salema is great. I had dinner each night sitting outside at one of the 3 beach-side restaurants enjoying the ocean view. The beach is pleasant and there are pleasant day trips by car from there. The village is small, picturesque and relaxing. I highly recommend staying at Romatik Villa!
Susan <email>
Canal Winchester, OH USA Fri 08/13/2004
Spain
My friend and I used Rick's book exclusively - it became our travel "bible." It was fun running into other travelers in hotels or tourist attractions,
carrying the book as we simultaneously said "This is why we are here!"
We flew into Madrid, then took a cab to the bus station to go to Toledo. Make sure the cab gets the message as to your destination. We got dropped off at the wrong place and after much confusion with limited Spanish, spent 45 minutes on the subway getting to the bus terminal.
In Toledo we stayed at Hotel Santa Isabel and found our room to be more than acceptable. The night clerk was very friendly. We found the cathedral very interesting and even enjoyed the train, well worth the few euros to get a grand circle tour of the city. A beautiful train station, but right now you catch a bus at the train station to take you to another train stop to catch the train to Madrid.
In Sevilla, what a delight to stay at Hotel Amadeus. Once again, friendly and helpful staff. We had the breakfast one morning (7 euros). Worth it once just for the ambience, but you can get a great breakfast - cereal and yogurt on Sta Maria La Blanca, a couple of blocks from the Hotel. Thanks to someone for recommending the little shop on La Blanca where you can buy clay creches. We thought the Alcazar was worth more the than the one star Rick gave it, if only to see the beautiful wedding couples having their photos taken there.
El Arenal - great flamenco. Beautiful horse carriage ride on a hot summer's evening. (It got up to 43C when we were there). Bus to Arcos. Great staff at El Convento and the food at the restaurant was superb. Cathy went gaga over the sangria here. Well worth every penny. We would have liked to have stayed here longer. Then by bus to Rhonda for several hours, then onto Nerja and Hotel Marissal. As some have said - "location, location, location!" For the price, 50 euros, what a great place. If you are hungry we highly recommend the breakfast buffet at the expensive Hotel Balcon next door. For 9 euros you can fill up on lots of fruit and good bread (most of the bread we ate in Spanish restaurants was rock hard and tasteless). El Chispa had a great platter of different deep fried fish for 8 euros - enough for two. We felt like locals. Frigiliana and the Caves were great side trips.
Next stop Granada - Hotel Los Tilos. Quiet location and very helpful staff, and with a 20% discount with Rick's book it came in at 48 euros. What a deal! Loved this city.
Alhambra - go the earliest you can. Less crowded, better light for photos. Amazing. Found traveler's Nirvana at the Arab bath and massage recommended by Rick. Ice cream and horchata at Los Italianos and tapas Bodega Castaneda also thumbs up to Rick. Overnight train to Barcelona, comfortable when you remember to adjust the air conditioning!
In Barcelona stayed at Hotel Penisular - certainly more sparse and noisier than others. One night some young adults from the UK who had been drinking caused some concern. Enjoyed the ease of Bus Turista - well worth the money. Cathedral closed for renovations. There was a protest the Sunday we were there so no Sardana Dancing. Certainly a city with a visible edge - dirt, poverty etc. Loved the market and we enjoyed the chance to buy our meals and picnic. Do the free tour at Palau Guell. We had a great guide. Get a ticket early in the morning as they only give out a limited number. Cafe Granja Viader is a wonderful place for a bite and their Majorca - style milk is heavenly. Beware of taxis taking you to the train who want to over charge you saying it is an arrangement with the hotel.
Final destination Madrid. Stayed at both Hotel Europa and Hostal Acapulco where Javier is the best. Everyone should have him give them the talk about thieves. I met up with friends there and on our first night out one of them had her wallet stolen out of her backpack (Should wear a moneybelt!). Once again Rick's book came in handy with a phone number for the Canadian Embassy and a police station where they spoke English. Next morning at the police station where my friend had to sign papers, we were told to take a number. Her's was 096. The sign indicating the number being served said 005. We figured we'd be there for the whole day! Luckily the numbering system wasn't working. This was just one of the many interesting experiences we had in Spain. We arranged everything except bus travel online before we went.
Thanks to Rick for helping make our
travels the trip of a lifetime. Can't wait
to use one of your books again.
Margo
Victoria, BC Canada Wed 08/11/2004
Rick Steves vs Lonley Planet - Rick wins!
Rick is the best! Just came back 3 wks ago from Spain and France. Spent 1.5 wks at each country beginning with Spain. We used Rick Steves' Spain & Portugal book and the Lonely Planet for France. Our biggest regret on our trip was not buying Rick's book for France! After using Rick's book in Spain and then going to France, we were SO disappointed with the Lonely Planet. It was awful in comparison! Way too general and didn't have the little details and tips that Rick had in his books. For instance, tips on where to go after you arrive at the airport...how many days we should spend in a particular city etc. etc. Lonely Planet was way too objective and not for us. The hotels that were recommended were not accurate in terms of the description. The hotels that Rick recommended was exactly how he described. Rick tells it as it is. What's even better is we got the 10% discounts at some hotels when we showed his book.
Many people in Canada have never heard of Rick's books and now I've been telling them not to waste $ on Lonely Planet. The Lonely Planet book was way too heavy. When we returned home, I went to the bookstore to see if Rick covered stuff in France that we may have missed b/c we were relying on the Lonely Planet and sure enough we did miss some things. Ugh!
I must say, we relied so heavily on Rick's book...it was like he was our own personal tour guide 24 hrs a day. The only thing I'd suggest is a few more words to be added to the spanish/english dictionary. Otherwise, this is the best travel book ever. It makes us want to go to more places in Europe but only to those places that Rick has written a book on.
M & I <email>
Vancouver, BC CAN Mon 08/02/2004
Spain trip summer 2004
We visited Spain in late June/early July with our two kids (ages 14 and almost 11), renting a car in Madrid and putting 4,000 Km on it during the trip. We had a great vacation, and wanted to share some random observations.
Don’t drive in Arcos unless you have a very small car. One that (really) fits a family of four is too big, as we found out during a National Lampoon European Vacation episode involving our Mercedes “beast”, the parking lot on the main plaza, a bunch of locals laughing at the tourists, and the numerous 90-degree blind corners going down the hill out of town…...
Sevilla – parking at garaje Cristobal Colon (off main street) was closer to many of the recommended hotels, cathedral, etc., and felt safer than the bus station. Restaurant La Cueva, on Plaza Dona Elvira (?) in Barrio Santa Cruz, had good basic food (menu del dia) with a bullfighting and tile motif – roast chicken with thyme was great.
Hostal Acapulco on Plaza del Carmen in Madrid was a find. Very friendly staff, basic, but does have everything you need. Funky old-time elevator that the kids thought was a riot. Much better value than other big city hotels, including Hotel Continental in Barcelona. One of our rooms at Continental was literally a closet, but it wasn’t a bad place to stay – felt safe. I couldn’t quite understand why, but I think they gave us a free bottle of cava for having a closet room with no air-conditioning (some rooms have it now).
Rick should not be so negative on the Paradors. For our family of 4, they were higher priced than some of our other lodging choices, but not totally out of line, and the rooms at a couple of the properties were practically posh. For 2 people, using their 5 night card promotion at 72 euros per night for very nice accommodations can be a great value.
Hotel Don Miguel in Ronda includes a good buffet breakfast as part of the room rate – great location on the gorge and close to everything. The Plaza de Socorro in Ronda was a great dinner location, particularly for people watching ranging from kids playing soccer to old ladies in fancy clothes feeding the pigeons. Restaurante Dona Pepa on the plaza was one of our favorite meals on the trip and included free aperitif and digestifs…..
Barcelona – Sagrada Familia is so impressive; should note that the Nativity façade and staircase are closed for security reasons, so get ready to stand in line for the elevator (buy your ticket from the attendant). Taberna Basca Ixati was a fun spot; without kids in tow, could have spent more time there. The Ramblas felt safer than Rick describes, but areas of the Barri Gotic felt seedy even in the middle of the afternoon on a Saturday. Living statues on the Ramblas are very entertaining.
Les Quinxe Nits restaurant in Barcelona was a good recommendation. No menu del dia on a Saturday but 4 persons had a great dinner including appetizers, 0.5 L of house wine and dessert for 45 euros.
We spent an enjoyable night and morning on the beach in Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava; still touristy, but way more enjoyable than Costa del Sol and not as overrun as other larger towns on Costa Brava, probably because it’s further off the main path.
Rick is right, the drive from Barcelona to Madrid is bor-r-ring, but they are building an AVE line so in a few years the trip could be improved.
La Posada de Manolo in Toledo was a nice stay. Manuel is very friendly and loaded up our daughter with candy. However, we found Toledo disappointing. Too many tourists, dirtier than most of the other cities we visited. Catedral was full of scaffolding; Mozarabic chapel and Tesoro are not open due to renovations. Recommended Restaurant Plaza near Zocodover was a greasy spoon. However, the escalator ride up into the old town was fun and Mariano’s sword shop was a riot – he is so friendly.
Salamanca – Las Torres Hotel is now part of a chain, but we were able to book a room for Sunday night on Expedia for 75 euros for a double plus bunk beds for the kids, including buffet breakfast – very convenient, right off Plaza Mayor. Recommended restaurant Dulcinea had very attentive staff, was very good for quality and price.
Segovia – we took Rick’s advice about not driving in the old city, but after visiting it didn’t appear that difficult – be aware that parking near the aqueduct means a long uphill walk to the Alcazar, particularly on a hot summer day. We’d drive into the city and find a place to park near the center – lots of spots.
Rick is right about Cordoba being nothing special, but it’s worth a stop to see the Mezquita if you’re driving from Sevilla to Toledo or Madrid. Granada was fun and very manageable for a larger city, as was Sevilla. Could have spent more time in the Albayzin, felt pretty safe (but weren’t there extremely late at night).
For future trips, Rick should consider a stop in Extremadura, particularly if driving from Spain to Portugal. Merida in particular had very impressive Roman monuments and a pretty main plaza that really came alive on a Saturday evening after a hot afternoon siesta.
Finally, for future books, consider some Barajas boarding tips. Our trip had somewhat of a sour ending due to being bumped by Iberia in the midst of the summer rush. Many in Spain do not adhere to the American custom of "lines" and from observation and conversations with other travelers, Iberia appears to overbook its flights on a consistent basis, particularly during high season. If we had known as such, we would have adjusted our plans accordingly. Tips: (1) get to the airport much earlier than you would otherwise to try to get on your plane. (2) Be aggressive with the ticket agents (but not impolite). Everyone cuts ahead of you in line. Do as the Romans (natives) do and get your tickets in the hand of someone in a red jacket - they can (and do) help you. (3) If you do get bumped, negotiate (if you can) good denied boarding compensation - Iberia seems to accept the situation and you may have to put up with attitude from the ticket office, but they pay up. We got money, food vouchers, and a hotel in Miami for our missed connection.
Robert Scott <email>
Brookfield, WI USA Sun 08/01/2004
Hotel El Triunfo/Granada
A caveat regarding Hotel Triunfo in Granada, recommended by readers below. Hotel is well situated and rooms are spacious, but the street noise -- hotel faces large plaza which feeds into popular Albaicin neighborhood, and seems to get every biker in town b/t 12 and 4 am -- is intolerable, even with ear plugs. In addition, hotel turns off a/c each night to save money and unless you like it hot, it's not fun.
Jean-Marie
Washington, DC USA Fri 07/30/2004
Andalucia
I just returned from a 11 day trip through Andalucia. Started in Barcelona, then to Granada, Nerja and Tarifa. I am a single mom and traveled with 12 & 15 yr olds and the budget accomodations that Rick's book recommended were excellent value. In Barcelona I could not get a room from Rick's list but found Pension Mari-Luz which had the most comfortable bed in all the places we stayed and it was quiet and only 20 euros per person. The Barcelona Bus Turistic tour has great value and 3 routes taking you to all the tourist sites in the city. Another great value too. Hostal Lorca in Nerja was excellent, Rick and Femma were great. Frigiliana is not to be missed. The caves were okay.
In Tarifa we stayed at the Hostal Alborada and it was squeaky clean as Rick states. If you are arriving for the weekend in Tarifa, I suggest you book the room ahead of time. The majority of the hostales were full. The ferry from Tarifa to Morocco had stopped running in July. It is back on August 6th and would be a much shorter trip than via Algeciras. The direct bus route from Algeciras to Jerez was worth finding, takes 1/2 the time compared to departing Tarifa.
Already planning my next trip.
T. White Canada, July 26, 2004.
T. White <email>
Vancouver, BC CAN Mon 07/26/2004
Wonderful Trip to Spain and Portugal
My family (my wife, 15 year old daughter, and I) returned yesterday (July 21) from an 18 day trip to Spain and Portugal. Most of our trip was in Spain, with only four days in Portugal. We used Rick's book extensively both in our planning and as a guide while we were there. We had not been to either country, so this was a new adventure for us, and we were very pleased with the entire experience. We learned quite a bit, and I thought it might be helpful to others if I listed some of the highlights as well as some of what we learned.
We drove a car the entire time, having rented a Hertz car in Madrid, and we found driving to be very easy. In most cases the roads are excellent in Spain -- although in Portugal the quality was less predictable -- and the drivers are courteous. Filling stations all have attendants, and so when you pull up to the pumps you wait for them to fill the tank and then you go in to pay. Credit cards were accepted at all the stations we used. The attendants are efficient and usually in well-maintained uniforms.
Throughout Spain we found service personnel to be professional and efficient. Waiters and waitresses, service station attendants, hotel clerks -- all were impressive. Although not as immediately friendly as many American service people might be, these Spanish folks are very good at what they do and we were consistently impressed with the service we received. (In Portugal, as Rick mentions, people seem warmer than in Spain, although the Spanish were consistently helpful and responded well to smiles and attempts at their language -- "gracias" and "por favor" go a long way.)
We planned our trip so that we drove out of Madrid as soon as we got our car, and then we returned the car at the end of the trip before we spent three days in Madrid. Therefore we did not have to deal with the Madrid traffic.
If you are driving in the larger cities (Lisbon, Seville, etc.), one suggestion from Rick is very important. When searching for hotels in these cities, and if you are not certain how to get to the hotel, hire a taxi to lead you to the hotel. We did not do this in Lisbon and we spent well over an hour searching for our hotel. Hiring a taxi is an excellent idea. The problem is the arrangement of streets in the old sections of these towns. Even locals cannot give good directions because the streets are too confusing. A good map of a city helps, but, even then, some streets are pedestrian and you cannot drive on them. Also, many city center streets are narrow and one-way. Two of our hotels were located on pedestrian streets, so getting to the front door was tricky. It helps to have a local person guide you through all this confusion.
We used the services of Stephen Drake-Jones -- Chairman of the Wellington Society -- as a guide in Madrid, and we were very pleased with our experience with him. Rick recommends Stephen, and with good reason. We took the morning tour of Madrid, and Stephen made the history of the city come alive. He is witty and knowledgable, and he is very helpful about general cultural issues. In fact, Stephen helped us solve a problem that was a low point of our trip. It might be helpful to others to relate this experience.
We ordered tapas in one of the restaurants in the Plaza Mayor in Madrid. When we ordered this we had been on our trip for 15 days so we considered ourselves relatively experienced at ordering food. We asked for some tapas for three people (it was early and we did not want a full dinner), and the waiter suggested a few. This sounded good so we asked him to bring them. We were expecting a selecion of individual tapas on a single plate with a variety of tapas. Instead, we received eight plates of food (raciones), ranging from shrimp to clams to cheese to fried peppers. We felt overwhelmed by all this and had no idea how we could eat it. We tried to eat a little of all of it, thinking we were obligated. At the end we were presented a bill of 109 Euros! We were angry and felt the waiter had taken advantage of us. We complained to him that this was too much food but he brushed us off by saying this is the "Spanish way." We paid the bill but were very unhappy. Later we learned that if we had not touched the food, or had asked him to take some back to the kitchen, we would not have been charged for that amount. At any rate, we continued to fume.
The next morning we had out tour with Stephen Drake-Jones. Stephen said he was very sorry to hear our story and he took us to a restaurant where he consulted a friend about what we should do. First of all, there is an official complaint book that every Spanish establishment must maintain. You complain on a form in writing, and a copy goes to the you, to the restaurant, and to a goverment agency that oversees such things. Unfortunately, we did not know about this. Also, there is a government agency that you can visit and file a complaint. Stephen took us to this place, which is located in the Plaza Mayor, but it was closed for siesta. So we went back the next morning and expressed our unhappiness with what had happened at the restaurant. We followed Stephen's advice to not argue but appeal to their emotions and to encourage them to agree that we had a case. Tell them that this experience spoiled our impression of Madrid, Stephen said. He said to tell them we were embarrassed. (Both true.) Although language was an issue, we were finally placed with an English speaking person and she carefully listened to what we said. Then she asked us to wait while she found someone to help us. This new person walked with us to the restaurant and had a discussion with the manager (all in Spanish, of course). End result: The manager refunded half of our bill, which was very fair, since we had eaten some of the food. We felt we had learned something and we felt there was a bit of justice served. Also, we appreciated the effort on the part of the officials to make things right.
Suggestion: Always pay for food with a credit card, and keep receipts. The restaurant was able to credit our account, because we had evidence we had paid by credit card. Importantly, as Rick suggests, "wave away" any food you do not want. Frequently, the waiters bring bread and olives, and if you eat them you will be charged. Finally, if you are unhappy with something, ask for the complaint book. This will get their attention.
I realize this is a very long entry, so I will end with a couple of highlights:
The paradores are wonderful. One of our best experiences was in the paradore in the town of Plascencia, which is south of Salamanca. It is in an old convent and it is marvelous. Also, the town was very nice and has a wonderful Plaza Mayor with a market day on Tuesday that provides lots of local color.
We enjoyed the Casa Mercedes in Nerja very much. This is a delightful place not far from the beach. It has many British tourists so English is understood. Highly recommended.
Siesta really is observed by many people, and shops -- especially the smaller ones -- are frequently closed from 2:00 p.m. until 5:00 p.m. If you need to purchase something, plan accordingly.
Segovia is a delight, and the Infanta Isabel hotel is wonderful. It is located right on the Plaza Mayor.
We were very impressed with Lisbon.
Read Washington Irving's "Tales of the Alhambra" before you visit there. It makes the place come alive.
There is so much more I dould write, but suffice it to say that we enjoyed our visit immensely. As I think of other things, I will include them in another entry.
Richard Swindle
Richard Swindle <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Algeciras Ferry
Note that the Algeciras ferry can often take long than the 90 minutes to two hours that the ferry lines advertise. We took ferry in March from Algeciras to Tangier and crossing took almost four hours: bottleneck at Tangier dock doubled crossing time. Return to Spain was the same; it took four hours because of delay in boarding tour buses onto ferry, and cross currents in crossing that slowed return.
Jean-Marie
Washington, DC USA Tue 07/20/2004
Tarifa ferry closed
Important updates that the Tarifa ferry/port is closed for three months.Something to with windsrufing. I had bought a ticket and was waiting for the bus at 7 pm when tw Flemish women steered me straight. It's necessary to take the Algecieras ferry. The town itself has a nice Plza, Plaza Also, near the port hotels. Don Quixote tiled benches in Arab style. Pardon the typing...Arabic keyboards are obscure at best.
Nick John
Morroco Tue 07/13/2004
Andalucia: Cordoba & Castles Tours
Just did a short 4 day visit n from London to beautiful Seville, Spain. Our surprise was a day trip CORDOBA...there's a LOT of history + things to see that are not mentioned yet in Rick's book...the castle of King Fernando,Roman ampitheater steps & mosaics, synagouge/Jewish Quarter, walking a Roman bridge & temple, tasty local wine & olive oil + the HIGHLIGHT Mezquita-church. We found all this on a fun & educational private tour with Santiago of MagicalSpain an American owned tour biz listed by Rick.
We also did a new family day tour called Crazy for Castles led by the founder Dan OBeirne.The kid's loved the picnic lunch in the castle and the explanation of medieval life. see www.magicalspain.com for info.
Julian & Robert Reed
London & Whashington, D.C., USA Mon 07/12/2004
Tour of Barcelona
Don't pass up Bus Turistic in Barcelona!
We toured a dozen countries in 21 days and took may city bus tours. However, Bus Turistic in Barcelona is heads above all others.
With one day to spend in Barcelona, we were delighted that it turned out to be a highlight. Upon arrival to Barcelona, we threw our bags in a locker at the train station and caught an awesome tour of Barcelona right outside the door of the train station. The cost of the one day tour is 16 Euros or you can purchase 2 day tour pass for 20 Euros. It includes access to all 3 intersecting tour circuts (red, blue, green routes) with a hop on hop off option at each stop.
The tour includes over 20 stops, including the beach(our 16 yr. old son enjoyed the topless beach), a booklet with a paragraph describing the significance of each of the landmarks, a good size map so you can anticipate when you want to hop off, it also included another booklet of discounts for most all sights (including diving off the diving boards at the Olympic swimming pool) as well as some chain restaurants. We used the tour from 9AM until 8PM when it returned us to the train station to catch our night train.
The guides on each bus give the tour in several languages. We realized our son had lost his discount booklet as we got ready to depart the bus for an admission charged sight. The Bus Turistic guide quickly handed us another discount booklet, no charge. A bus from the same tour company stops at each of the 20 stops every 5-8 minutes. It was a blessing for us to get to see so much of Barcelona in such a short time at such a reasonable fee.
Jan Wishau <email>
Los Alamos, NM USA Tue 06/29/2004
More on "Shopping in Seville" Below
In addition to the other wine and food products described below under "Shopping in Seville," May 30, 2004, take a look at Delicias del Barrio sale wine in the front of the store. The owner stocks some very nice Andalucian red wines, including Hidalgo Rioja and Valdepenas Tabenas, for two to four Euros per bottle. Don't judge it by its price. This wine is good stuff: it is deep discounted because the owner gets bonus cases from distributors and passes the savings on to her customers.
Jean-Marie <email>
Washington D.C., DC USA Mon 06/28/2004
Holy Toledo, indeed
I spent two days in Toledo over Corpus Christi, and highly recommend it. The celebrations last for several days, but the main event is the procession on the 9th Thursday after Easter. The day before, the cathedral was almost empty in the afternoon - I had the wonderful carvings in the choir all to myself.
The procession itself took around 90 minutes to pass me, you'd think all of Toledo was in it, except some are obviously lining the route & siting in reserved seats in Zocodover square. Nowhere else are you likely to see so many women in black lace mantillas, men in robes and prelates in embroidered copes at one time! The highlight of the procession is the monstrance that usually lives in the treasury. It took the men pushing the float it was on two shots to get it up the ramp and back in front of the main altar at the end of the procession. The processional route is covered and decorated, and there is a carnival-type parade along the same route the evening before.
Among the special events, some of the houses let you in to see their patios - it's a wonderful oportunity to see what's behind all those big wooden doors.
I stayed at the Santa Isabel, which was fine. I ate expensively and well at the Cuatro Tiempe, reasonably and well at Bar Cerveceria Gambrinus, and reasonably but badly at Restaurante Meson Palacios - the food was poor and the service so fast as to be almost insulting.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA Sun 06/27/2004
Andulsia Spain and Southern Portugal
We did a 2 week tour using an Eurail Rail and Drive pass (I think 3 rail days and 5 car rental days) across Southern Spain and Southern Portugal. The reason for the combo rail-n-drive ticket is because the Spanish rail system didn't go to all the places that we wanted to go to.
We started in Madrid, railed to Granada, picked up a rental car in Granada, drove to Malaga (on the coast), Ronda (beautiful town on the gourge), Arcos de la Frontera (famous Pueblo Blancos in the wine country), Sevilla, dropped our car in Sevilla, took bus to Lagos in the Portugal coastal resort area, picked up our rental car in Lagos, drove to Salema, returned to Lagos, railed to Lisbon, railed from Lisbon to Madrid.
While in Spain, we stayed at the famous Spanish Paradores, which is a government-runned top-notch chain of hotels (see www.parador.es). Most hotels are old historic buildings converted into nice hotels. Most of these hotels are priced around $100 - $250 USD per night, but are well worth the treat.
Especially the Parador de Granada, an old monestary built around 1400s, which is located on the grounds of the Alhambra. The Alhambra is a "must see" - beautiful garden grounds that hosts several historical Christian and Moorish palaces and fortresses. Give yourself a full day to enjoy the Alhambra.
The Parador in Malaga is located next to a castle fortress with a pamoramic view of the sea and coastline.
Parador de Ronda, a newer facility, was also one of our favorites located right on the gorge. Be sure to request a room on one of the top floors overlooking the gorge (it costs a little more but well worth it!). Our room looked straight into the gorge and had a beautiful view at sunset of the cliff and town nestled up on top of of the cliff. Ronda is known for having one of the oldest bull fighting arenas and is also where Madonna filmed her video years ago.
The Parador in Arcos de la Frontera is located in one of many Pueblos Blancos (white villages) high on the top of a cliff. Driving is a nightmare (pull your mirrors in), but when you arrive at the hotel, you will be glad to made the trip. This Parador is the best priced Parador that we stayed in. Also with an incredible photographic view of the plains and village on top the cliff.
Parador de Carmona is located just outside Sevilla and has a fantastic view as well as a huge pool. From Sevilla, we took the bus to Lagos, Portugal (the bus runs twice a day, which you can do a search on the web to find the schedule somewhere) which left early in the morning and arrived in Lagos in the afternoon. We stayed the night in Lagos and picked up our rental the next morning. When you arrive, be prepared to be attacked by hotel advocates solicitating various hotels and B&Bs.
We drove to Salema where we stayed 2 nights. Salema is a small quiet fishing village off the beaten path. We stayed at a B&B called the Romantik Villa (www.romantikvilla.com). This B&B is a little paradise located up the hill overlooking the ocean. We paid about $70 per night for the largest suite room which has a kitchen, sitting area, patio, and the view overlooking sea and the pool. The B&B is runned by an married couple - Jost (an Austrian) and Lisa (a Brazilian). Lisa, while studying interior decorating, lived in New York where she learned to speak English. Jost, a very friendly gent, speaks German and very little English. Lisa has put her talents to use in decorating the rooms and Jost has done a great job with the gardens to make it like a little paradise. Lisa and Jost will take good care of you. Warning: the Atlantic ocean is very cold.
From Lagos, we took the train to Lisbon and spent 2 days/1 night in Lisbon then back to Madrid. Lisbon was just another big city, but about a 30 minute train ride outside of Lisbon is the town of Sintra which has several palaces and castles nestled on the rolling hilltops. Most remarkable is the Pena Palace, where the royalty of Portugal onced lived, and the Moorish Castle built around the 8th century and has a fantastic view of the Protugese country side and the Pena Palace. If you are Sintra, be sure to try the honey pasty sold at most tourist kiosks. This vacation was definately a dream vacation!!!
Tammy <email>
Dallas, tx USA Tue 06/22/2004
Spain Vacation
I visited Madrid and Barcelona last week and I am so thankful for the tips provided in Rick Steve's Book. Hotel Jardi in Barcelona is a nice hotel for a great price, and so is Hostal Acapulco in Madrid. Javier and Marco as just the nicest people. Vary accomodating and helpful. Hostal Acapulco is a very nice hotel in a nice location with a wonderful price. It's also quiet and has a quaint charm of its own. I will definitely come back. I also noticed that there are a lot of Rick Steve's book in the lobby left by the customers.
We also went to the restaurant you recommended, the Puerto Rico Restaurant, located right behind the hotel. We cant believe our great fortune since it offers great food for such low prices!! We instantly regretted that lunch at KFCs considering that the price we paid for a combo meal is just about the price we paid at the Peurto Rico restaurant. The manager, we called him "senor" is a warm, nice guy who provides very efficent service.
I want to thank your book for providing such priceless information that gives your readers great leverage when they visit a foreign country. We all want to enjoy great food and great service at a good price. For that I am so thankful!!
Yolanda Lopez
Fremont, CA USA Tue 06/08/2004
Spain
I just got back from Spain. I saw Rick filming in Seville! (poor guy tried to do three takes by the cathedral and people kept coming up).
Anyway, I found his book accurate and helpful.
a couple of tips:
a. BUY A PHRASE BOOK! (i found the little DK one handy) unlike most of europe, no one here speaks English outside the hotels.
b. Read Washington Irving's Tales of Alhambra before you visit! it will bring the place alive. - its a short book of short stories, so it makes easy plane & train reading. There is also a book "literay spain" - burns which really paints a nice overall image of spain
c. another reader said the Seville-Granada train ride was dull - I found it quite scenic, as I did the Madrid-Segovia one.
d. Hostal Cervantes- Madrid was recommended in Rick's book and a second the nomination - also staying by the Prado gives one easy access to the lively nightlive a ten minute walk away but is much quiter.
e. Rick Recommends using the tourist office- I found most helpful, but more helpful was getting the info before hand from the spain tourist office (which also has a GREAT website).
Theodore Hollsworth
NYC, NY USA Fri 06/04/2004
PORTUGUESE RESTAURANTS HEADS UP
LISBON
Just a little comment for people visiting PORTUGAL.
We are experienced European travellers, but bumped into a new concept (at least to us) in Portuguese restaurants. They have a cover charge, which one would assume would cover the little "goodies" like bread, etc. that are on the table (kinda like Italy?) WRONG.
The nice little cheese round (queso on the menu), plus the bread,and the olives, are almost always an extra charge that will show up,usually in addition to the cover. In one particularly agregious situation, we were presented with a small plate of shrimp, along with olives, cheese and bread, we ate 2 of the shrimp, and were presented with a bill for 16 Euros for the shrimp, plus more for the cheese and olives.
According to the locals, the correct procedure is to not eat anything (refuse it or push it away untouched ) other than the bread, perhaps unless you are willing to pay for them.They will usually show somewhere on the menu, some where near the explanation of the cover charge, but hard to find (if there at all!!!)
Be warned !!!
Alan
Los Angeles, CA USA Tue 06/01/2004
Hotels and corrections
We just returned from 2.5 weeks in Portugal and Spain, following Rick's advice almost exclusively. A few ticket prices, times, etc. were different in the 2004 guidebook than what we found in reality, but I know Rick was traveling in Iberia last month, so he has probably corrected the inaccurate information already. For example, in Toledo's cathedral we tried for the free entry during the hours Rick mentions, but had to pay a few euros apiece -- and half the church was closed for repairs. A 4.5 hour bus ride from Coimbra to Salamanca was not available, and ours took over 7 hours (not direct). We also had his language guide but found it lacking in some areas, particularly in Portuguese food items.
Highlights were our daytrip to Sintra with an awesome tour of Pena Palace and its grounds...we're young and athletic so we walked up the entire way from the town to the palace -- it's a wonderful, quiet winding road in the woods. If you have all day and can skip the bus, I'd do it. (My boyfriend and I also got engaged at the queen's perch overlooking Pena Palace, so that made it even better). Coimbra's university graduation festivities were enthralling, Salamanca's main square was jam-packed at all hours, and even though I'm a professional writer I can't find words to describe the early evening views in Ronda. Take the great deal of 10 euros apiece for Concepcion Delgado's walking tour in Sevilla.
As far as accomodations, Rick steered us right. We tried to stick to a 100 euro a day budget, and averaged just 34 euros a night for two people, with our most expensive nights at $45 for an awesome Madrid experience on Gran Via, and $50 for a right-on-the-main-square-with-an-ocean-view-balcony in Nerja. LISBON: Pensao Imperial was cheap, clean and very central. Front-facing rooms can be loud if you're sleeping the same night Porto wins a soccer match. And you thought New Yorkers honked their horns a lot.
COIMBRA: Pensao Santa Cruz a little dingy and dated, but great location and very nice staff.
SALAMANCA: Followed Rick's advice and took a room at Hostal Los Angeles right on the Plaza Mayor...our room was tiny with no windows and vaguely smelled of smoke -- not our best choice, but we spend every waking hour out in the city anyway, and fell in love with Salamanca.
MADRID: Rick's recommended Hostales at Gran Via 44 were booked, but one directed us to Casa/hotel/? Romera at Gran Via 64, and it was our best stay of the trip (though not in Rick's book). Just 45 euros in a huge city put us in a lovely room with bath, high ceilings with crown molding, and the coolest old elevator you've ever ridden. Friendly Chara (sp?) spoke only Spanish but if you can converse, she was a pure delight.
GRANADA: Hotel Residencia Lisboa brought conversation and smoke from a neighboring room, and the security system is a little sketchy (you walk off the street, tell them a room number and they hand you the key) but it worked fine. A walk up to the Sacromonte on a nice morning makes a pleasant semi-rural walk before your Alhambra ticket time.
NERJA: Nothing prepared us for the gorgous bus ride through the Sierra Nevadas from Granada to Nerja....and the next day's trip from Marbella north through the mountains to Ronda was even more stunning--not for those afraid of heights or mountain roads. In Nerja we had a fine room at Hostal Marissal facing the Balcony of Europe. Don't come to Nerja expecting to hear much other than English and German, but it makes a very nice little beach break on the trip.
RONDA: Stayed at uber-cheap Hostal Biarritz, which was off the beaten path and merely adequate, but we only paid 17 euro so no complaints at all. We had the most breathtaking views at dusk from the old Roman wall below the city. Would give Ronda more time if doing again.
SEVILLA: Our top 3 choices were booked when we called almost a week ahead, so we settled on Hostal La Gloria, with a terrific location off the main shopping area. Only the bathrooms left something to be desired, as they weren't as spic-and-span as I would hope.
TAVIRA, Portugal: Really scored with Rick's recommended Rosa's Quartos. For 25 or 30 euros in May, we were the only guests on our floor, (amidst marble-paved hallways, tile work, and the best shower we had) in a delightfully quiet fishing town. Rosa was sweet (no English, but she can do Spanish), and the ferry out to the beach island is a must, no matter waht the weather. We even plunged into the ocean.
Thanks Rick for making our second European trip using your books an absolute success.
Christie S.
Portland, OR USA Mon 05/31/2004
Shopping in Seville
Shopping in Seville: If you want something different from the usual tourist items sold near the Cathedral and on Calle Sierpes, check out the following stores, all of which are located within a short walk from each other and the Cathedral:
(a)Coco Sevilla: Ximenez de Enciso, 28. Nice tiles for $15 (cellist, violinist, prostitute (!)). Beautiful non-traditional silk shawls. Very nice owners. They also do free gift wrap. Hours vary with season.
(b) Tradiciones (Calle San Jose, 18, half a block from Plaza Sta. Maria la Blanca near Hotel Fernando III ) (phone 954 211 050) . The only centrally located, year-round creche store in Seville, which is famous for clay crčche scenes. Store sells Spanish-made Nativity scenes, but for the non-religious, and particularly those with kids, they also sell enchanting village miniatures: gardens, figures, and even tiny clay fruits, vegetables, tools, and plates at very reasonable prices. Owners Pilar and Carlos are lovely, and Carlos speaks English. Kids love this store. They also sell candles and candle holders and seasonal gift items. Spanish businessmen shop here for gifts to take home to family. Hours vary with season (summer hours are 10-9 pm; winter hours vary; closed in mid-afternoon).
c) Las Delicias del Barrio, Mateos Gago, 15 (phone 954 210 629); open seven days a week from 10:30 am to 9 pm. Wine, manzanilla, olive oil and treats store. The owner, Isabel, is very knowledgeable about the products. Check out the great chocolate called “El Monje” made in Carmona by ex-monk (under $3.50 for six ounces of 60% chocolate, dark and milk). You won’t find it anywhere else. Delicias is the place to go on a Sunday evening when everything else is closed and you want wine to take back to your hotel. Store also sells attractive wood items.
Prices at all these stores are very reasonable.
Jean-Marie
Washington D.C., DC USA Sun 05/30/2004
Southern Spain
We visited Southern Spain in very early May 2004, and here are our thoughts and recommendations. All hotel and sites are in Ricks book except where noted. See our posting in the Savory Spain and Portugal graffiti wall for food recommendations.
We flew into MALAGA, the easiest starting point for our vacation. We only had a very short time there, but would not recommend Malaga beyond what is necessary. If you need a hotel - Hotel Las Vegas, is instantly forgettable, completely charmless, but is clean, safe and reasonably priced. We booked off www.andalusia.com our rate including breakfast, a good value. We did see a Hotel Ibis located near the airport (Euro59/night), which would have been a much better in-transit bet had we known about it.
In Malaga, we rented a car through Zenith Car Rental www.zenithsl.com, zenith@chipsur.com, for Euro 152/week all inclusive of insurance etc. Zenith was very helpful and picked us up at our hotel - we would not recommend driving in Malaga. Our hosts in Gaucin (see below) helped arrange the rental and logistics, so it may be wise to contact them about car rental if you are staying with them. Zenith is only located in Malaga and will meet you at the airport for pickup and drop off.
We drove about 1.5 hours from Malaga to GAUCIN, a hill town. Gaucin, near Ronda, is not mentioned in Rick’s books but is shown on one of his maps. We highly recommend Gaucin and staying at Molino del Carmen in particular. Gaucin is very well located to use as a home base to tour the area – it’s about 45 minutes to Gibraltar, 40 minutes to Ronda and Grazalema and Zahara are close as well. We also drove 2.5 hours to Jerez with a stop in Arcos. Granada was 2.5 hours as well.
We highly, highly recommend El Molino del Carmen (www.molinodelcarmen.com) in Gaucin. Owned by Darryl (ex Canadian and Marjukka (ex Finn), there are five “apartments” with kitchenettes, terrace, and pool. This is the perfect location for enjoying the sun and touring the countryside. The accommodations (generally bedroom, bathroom, sitting area, kitchenette) are simply but very tastefully done, and are maintained to a very high standard. We paid Euros 595 for a week in the terrace apartment. Darryl and Marjukka are fabulous hosts who have lived in the area for many years, and were happy to chat about the good, the bad and the ugly of the region, as well as help with touring arrangements. Note: a new house is being built right next to Molino del Carmen and there is a fair bit of noise at the moment, although the house is supposed to be finished by June. The rooms are rented for a minimum of a week at a time.
We liked Gaucin, which while not terribly picturesque in the way that Grazalema or Zahara are, was a perfect hill town and location. There are about two hotels, several restaurants, two banks and a number of Mom and Pop grocery stores. It appeared to be a “working” village. We mainly saw locals who spoke no English.
Rick is correct that you should limit your time to RONDA, ARCOS, GRAZALEMA and ZAHARA. Ronda was very nice, and we particularly liked the bullring (Euros 5.00), which had a tasteful souvenir shop. The road from Gaucin to Ronda is windy, but not difficult - about 40 minutes. Get off the main tourist street in Ronda and you will immediately be in the local’s part of town, minus the tourists.
ARCOS was delightful - follow Rick’s driving instructions and drive carefully. We did Arcos on our way back from Jerez. In JEREZ, we went to the Equestrian horse show, which was worth the effort. It was not too difficult finding the Equestrian school from the signs posted once you entered Jerez.
You only need a few hours in Arcos. The biggest problem we had in Arcos was actually getting out of the town. A tip we discovered (which may not work in all cases!!), is to follow the signs/directions to the highway even if they are leading you in the wrong direction - invariably there will be signs once you approach the highway directing you in the direction you want. At worst, you can get on to the highway going in the wrong direction, but can then just exit, turn around, and get going in the correct direction.
GIBRALTAR was mediocre. Take Rick’s advice and park in La Linea. Gibraltar was touristy, but our impressions may have been better if we had been able to go up the rock - the cable cars were closed due to wind. At most give it a half-day. If you have been to Bermuda, you have seen similar and much better.
GRAZALEMA and ZAHARA were an easy drive from Ronda and were great. You will not need more than half a day to visit both together. Rick's suggested road between the two was memorable. It is a very narrow, winding road on the side of a mountain and we would not want to drive it in bad weather or at night. Fortunately, there was very little traffic when we did it very slowly. Generally, driving in Spain was excellent. We took the toll roads whenever possible.
Unfortunately our time at the Alhambra was in rain, but it was still worthwhile. GRANADA was bigger than we expected - driving was not easy. We may have not come in on the correct street, but got quite lost in the city. Signs were poor, even those directing to the Alhambra. We saw a number of tourists driving around in bewilderment. We found Rick’s recommended parking garage, Parking Real, mostly by luck, and it was a good location.
SEVILLE was magnificent. We spent 2 and a half days - just right. We stayed at Hotel Alcantara. This is a new place, comfortable and clean but with no charm at all. The staff was very helpful. We did all the sights in Seville and highly recommend the city. We were not sure the Euro 7 cathedral admission charge was worth it, but you can’t go up the Giraldi tower unless you pay the fee. The old Jewish quarter can be touristy, but there are still areas in the quarter which the locals frequent. The “downtown” of the city, starting just past the cathedral and tower, where the locals congregate was fabulous.
We took the two hour walking tour with Concepcion Delgado (See Rick’s book) and found it very worthwhile. The tour had just the right mix of history, culture and information and Concepcion was a lovely guide. Concepcion had finished filming with Rick for 5 days just prior to our arrival, so look for her dancing at the Feria in the new TV series.
We saw Flamenco at Los Gallos and the more intimate performance at the Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus. Both were very good in their own way. If you can only afford to see one show, the Los Gallos show just beats the Casa Memoria, since you will see more variety at Los Gallos. The Casa Memoria is located in the same building as Hotel Alcantara.
In MADRID we stayed at Hotel Europa, which was clean, safe, very well located and with very helpful staff. The metro was very efficient and easy to use (we used it to the Airport with no problem; about 45 minutes with a few line changes). We would schedule no more than a day in Madrid to see all the sites.
We visited TOLEDO and found it very enjoyable. The town is very touristy - souvenir stores galore, but still worthwhile. It was only a 50-minute bus ride from the Madrid bus station. In fact, if you just must see Madrid, we think a much more pleasurable option is to day trip from Toledo to Madrid. We enjoyed the Sinagoga Transito. The Sinagogo Santa Maria la Blanca was not worth the Euro 1.50 entrance fee. The cathedral was closed for most of the day we were there. We did take Rick’s recommended 50 minute cheesy little train ride, which we can also recommend. There is English and Spanish commentary and excellent views of Toledo.
Brett and Margaret
Vancouver, BC, Bc Sun 05/23/2004
spain
Overall, we found Rick to be quite accurate. We have just returned from a 17 day tour of Spain. IN Barcelona, we stayed at the Hotel Nouvel which we found to be quite good. It is located on a quiet street, yet it is only one block from all the action on the Ramblas. We had a room with a balcony. We enjoyed Barcelona, and our only suggestion which deviates from the book would be to save the money by not entering the Sagrada Familia church. The interior is one large construction zone, and adds nothing to the appreciation of the church's exterior.
In Madrid, we too found the old Royal Palace disappointing compared with Versailles. We toured with Stephen Drake-Jones, went to the bullfights (wothwhile once), and enjoyed the side trip to El Escorial very much.
Toledo- wouldn't waste the money on the Sta. Maria Blanca church/synagogue. The Transit synagogue was much better. We thought that the Victorio Macho site was very nice as Rick advised.
In Granada, we were fortunate to stay in the Parador inside the Alhambra. This is a very worthwhile splurge. We had the 8:30 time for our Palace visit and found this ideal in that it was uncrowded and we were able to take some excellent photos.
We enjoyed Gibraltar, taking a tour since the cable car was closed due to wind. We did the one day tour of Tangier, buying tickets from the ferry operator in Tarifa. It was interesting, altho somewhat commercial.
We stayed in Ronda in the hill country and loved it. We were based at the El Juncal hotel, extremely modern decor which was nice for a change of pace. The price fixed dinner there was one of the best we have ever eaten, in a great setting.
We then visited the Sandeman sherry factory in Jerez. The tasting is very nice. We ended our stay in Sevilla, enjoying the city . We liked the tour of the bullring and museum there. We used a Hertz rental car for part of the trip. It seemed to be cheaper to rent and we had no problems.
stephen munz
anaheim, ca USA Wed 05/12/2004
Spain & Portugal Rail Time Table
In 2003, we visited Italy and followed Rick's tip to purchase the all Italy rail time table (orario ferroviaro). Is there an all Spain and/or Portugal rail (or even bus) time table?
Tim <email>
Baton Rouge, LA USA Tue 05/11/2004
Iberia Airlines/ Air France
Heads up: Unless you travel business class on Iberia, you will pay for everything you eat or drink on virtually all their flights. We recently traveled from our home in Spain to London and Paris. We used Iberia and Air France. On Iberia 2.5 hour flight from Seville to London, we paid nine Euros for a sandwich with one slice of bad ham. On 40 minute puddle jumper from London to Paris, Air France provided better sandwich and drinks, for free.
Jean-Marie Simon <email>
Seville, SP Sun 05/09/2004
Rick gets you around Europe!
I just got back less than a week ago from studying over in Madrid, Spain. I took Rick Steve's book "Spain and Portugal" with me and it helped a lot...I used it all throughout El Escorial, Segovia, Granada, Seville, San Sebastian, Barcelona and of course Madrid.
While traveling through Spain, my friends and I did find a cute little beach town called Calpe that I thought was awesome! It was close to Alicante (45 minutes away) that I think people should visit. We did a major hike (roughly 900 or so feet) up to the top of the penon, which is a huge rock that over looks the meditaranean ocean, gorgeous!! Renting a car and driving from Calpe down the east coast towards the South through Benidorm, Alicante, etc. is a good option. I absolutely fell in love with Spain's language and culture. I have found Rick Steve's books to be extremely helpful...even with my past travels throughout Europe!
Jess
USA Thu 05/06/2004
Spain and Portugal
My girlfriend and I just got back from a 2-week trip to Spain and Portugal and we had a great time. In Madrid we stayed at the Hostal Acapulco, which was in a great location for a great price, not to mention a friendly staff and clean rooms.
From Madrid we took the train to Granada and stayed at Hotel Triunfo. This was the only place we stayed not listed in Rick’s book, but it was a wonderful place. We got excellent service at the front counter and would definitely stay there again if we make it back to Granada. It is right near the busline to get to the Alhambra and also right on the edge of the Albayzin.
After Granada we took a bus to Nerja which was one of our favorite stops on the trip. It is a nice small town, which was so relaxing. In Nerja we staid at the Hostal Marrisal which was in the best location I think. It was right on the Balcony of Europe and the rooms were only about $40 euros/night. They even have a great restaurant that we ejoyed as well. In Nerja the caves were amazing, and the beaches were quite nice as well. It is a great place to stop and take a breath before you continue on a whirlwind tour of the sights in the bigger cities in Spain, we were very glad we got to spent some time here.
We then spent a day in Seville and took the midnight bus out of Seville to Lisbon and got there about 4am. In Lisbon we stayed at the Hotel Lisboa Tejo, and they staff there was extremely nice, they even let us check in early at around 5am without having to pay extra. This was yet another hotel in a wonderful spot in the city. It was a relatively easy walk from the hotel to the Sao Jorge Castle, and to the other main Praca’s around Lisbon. The only thing about Lisbon for us was the continuous drug pushing. It felt like every block there would be some guy coming up to me trying to sell me hashish and they would follow you a while no matter what you told them or if you just ignored them they’d even whistle to try and get your attention. We also avoided some pickpockets on the tram to Belem thanks to some people on the tram who pointed them out to us as soon as we got on. Sure enough the people that were pointed out to us came over and pretended to bump into us and drop a coin at our feet, which my girlfriend just kicked away. After that they got off on the next stop. However, all that aside Lisbon was a incredibly fun and exciting city to visit and was a great way to end our trip. I can’t wait to go back.
Phil
Portland, ME USA 04/21/04
Paris, Lisbon and Seville
Fatima at the front desk at the Hotel Lisboa Tejo was incredibly helpful and speaks perfect English. The hotel is clean, hip and well located. Also, the only place we stayed that included breakfast. Well worth 110 Euros for a double. In Paris I highly recommend the Hotel Castex in the Marais. Their remodel is complete and it is beautiful and pas tres cher. In Seville, all of the Rick hotels were full, so we stayed at the Hotel Reyes Catolicas (not in the book) which is very convenient, nice and a good value at 80 Euros for an air-conditioned double. We actually found the people in Paris to be freindlier than in Spain or Portugal, especially in the shops. In Spain and Portugal, the sales pople can hardly be othered to get your size of shoes or let you try on clothes. (and we were speaking their language, not english) They need sales training badly. Not so in Paris. The sales people in the shops are very anxious to help and look for sixes and color matches, etc., and many wanted to know details about where we live, our trip and our experieinces. We always started speaking French and those who know English were anxious to speak English to us. The important thing in Paris is not to be loud or demanding in public settings. Also, you need to accept that the French all smoke because they are not going to change their habits for the benefit of health-conscious Americans. We encountered a very ugly American in a jazz club. The patrons were too polite to correct him when he whistled rather than applauded (not done there) and shouted comments at the band, but we were embarrassed.
T Davis
Denver, CO USA 04/20/04
Barcelona
We visited Barcelona in early March and absolutely loved our two days there. We stayed at Catalonia Albinoni and found it to be very centrally located, the rooms clean and the staff professional. A few tips:
1. Do not miss the Palau Guell, one of Gaudi's first buildings, just of Las Ramblas, BUT stop by early in the day, esp. on a weekend, and get a ticket for a later tour. They only let 20 people in at a time and often all the tours are full by 2pm. With a ticket, you just show up ten minutes before and pay then.
2. If you want to eat at QuatroGats then it pays to make a reservation. We didn't (on a Saturday night) and waited an hour before they could seat us, plus they were so busy we couldn't get a drink for 40 minutes. Having said that, the food and ambiance of the restaurant were great, and once we got a table, the service was excellent. Just make that reservation!
3. The aerobus in from the airport makes change and is a fast and inexpensive way to get into town. Our hotel was five minutes away from the Placa Cantalunya and even our early flight was no problem, the buses start running about 5:30 am.
4 Finally, try to memorize a few phrases in Catalan as well as Spanish. The locals really appreciate it when you show them that you know the difference because they are very proud of being CATALAN, not Spanish. Of course, Spanish is used as well. Rick's Spain and Portugal guidebook has some popular phrases in Catalan, but I couldn't find any in his phrase book.
Buen viaje!
Lori Heathorn <email>
Palo Alto, Ca USA 04/19/04
Madrid and surrounding area.
Just returned from a 13-day visit to Madrid, Segovia, Avila, Salamanca, Caceres and Toledo. Stayed at the Hotel Europa in Madrid. Very convenient location and nice rooms but can noisy at night if you have a room facing Puerto del Sol. The AeroCity shuttle bus worked very well. Reserved times to and from airport on line. Only 17 Euros for two each way.
I think tapas are hard to do without some rudimentary Spanish. Tapas bars are usually crowded so it is not easy to belly up to the bar and simply point. Sitting a table requires you know what you want since there isn't usually a menu to point to. Works better if you are near a chalkboard on which are written the tapas and racions that are available.
Took a day trip to El Escorial. Easy to do my taking Metro to Moncloa and a bus to San Lorenzo. Well worth while. Segovia was wonderful. Highly recommende the Hotel Infanta Isabel. Pay extra for a room facing the Plaza Mayor. Not noisy at night and great view. The roast suckling pig at the Meson de Candido was good by we thought the food at Jose Maria was better. Definitely walk or drive down below the Alcazar for some pictures with the setting sun.
We took a day trip from Segovia to see some of the castles of Castille - Coca, Cuellar, Penafiel, Pedraza and Turegano. Saw Avila on the way to Salamanca. Worth a couple of hours enroute althought the cathedral is closed until May. Stayed at the Hotel Salamanca Plaza Mercado in Salamanca - just around the corner from the Plaza Mayor. Recommend eating at Restaurant Isidro - friendly staff and good food. Saw several Easter parades which were great. Drove down to Caceres and stayed at the Parador. Parador very nice but Caceres may be a little overrated. In retrospect, I would have saved myself a day by skipping Caceres and going straight to Toledo (or spend extra day or two further north in Burgos). The town of Trujillo was a nice stop in between Caceres and Toledo. Stayed at the Hostel del Cardenal in Toledo. Very nice hotel with a pay parking area just next door. Very nice patio areas and a good restaurant. The weather was still too cool to be served sangria in these patios - would be nicer a little later in the year. Although the restaurant at the hotel was good (and stuffy like Rick describes) be sure to eat at Restaurante-Meson Palacios. Probably the best meal we had on the trip. Were waited on by Jesus who was very friendly. Our only regret of the trip was that the restaurant was closed when we went back to eat the night before we left Spain. Rick kind of poo hoos driving south to the town of Consuegra to see the windmills and castle. I disagree unless the weather is infernally hot. It was very pleastant to walk in the castle and take pictures. We went to Arenjuez on the way back - not worth the time in my opion.
Peter
Salem, OR USA 04/18/04
Rick's guide thru Spain and Portugal
Great time driving thru Andalusia and Southern Portugal. Spain is just a beautiful country, with loads of bright sunshine.
PLACES TO STAY: Staying at Paradors is a real treat; do it sometime within your trip if you can; it makes a nice, comfortable respite. Other hotels we loved: El Convento, Arcos (what views - even without a balcony!!), Alavera de los Banos, Ronda (great place, staff, and meals!), Pension A Mare in Salema, Portugal...there aren't enough great words